Brakes Question

[Redcreeper]

Need some help with my brake plumbing. It stated with soft brakes and i have bled several times. Then after cutting a brake line on the Fathers Day run i got under it and started to takethe parts off so i know what to get or have made. I noticed that the passenger side was set up different than the driver. To start the way it is plumbed does not seem right. from the frame the hard line goes to a braided line then to the axle where a T is and the driver side has a 28 in braided line to the caliper and the passenger side has a small hard line from the T and then a Braided line to the caliper. Also the braided line on the passenger is a smaller diameter than the driver line. Shouldnt these be the same? shouldnt the left and right be plumbed the samehey work even? I was going to get 2 lines the same and get rid of the small hard line from the T and make them the same diameter. is this correct thinking? I have spongy brakes now and have bled them several times and thinking this may cause it. or at least the larger line to one side. Doesnt smaller line have more pressure? Any help or ideas would be great. Also since i lost all the fluid to one side of the master do i need to bench bleed it again or am i ok to just plumb it again and bleed it? I am surprised i am able to stop at all. thanks again in advance.

Kenny

[Redcreeper]

almost forgot that it has discs in the rear and the master is a 2 chamber and a prop valve splitting duty. Also i noticed the front lines are larger also but they are the same on both sides. My uncle says i need to put a junction block on it like the original jeeps do so if i do cut a line i will be able to stop and get it home. is this possible or something that can be done? is this a better way to run the system?

[Brody]

Well, on the sort of 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' principle, I would leave the existing lines alone except to replace any that got damaged with the same part. That way, you aren't going into the fix wondering if it is something that you have done differently or altered. Best to get all the stock parts back on, then figure out what is going on with your brakes. Once you get the brakes stopping you like they used to, then mess with them all you want to. You will just be making headaches for yourself changing lines and stuff around where you are now.

Easiest thing to do right now, as it sounds like you still have a bunch of air in the lines, is to get a bunch of brake fluid, open the hood, open the reservoir, and crack all of the bleeder valves. Simply let them drip and keep an eye on the fluid level at all times. Wait until brake fluid is dripping or flowing out of all the bleeders pretty uniformly, then close them off. This is called gravity bleeding, is a little slow, but it does get the fluid out of your lines. You can also gravity bleed the system, then do a regular bleed either using a hose in the fluid on the bleeder or a friend to help.

There is probably some sort of obscure, techy reason that the lines aren't set up the same on both sides. I would double check to see what All Pro and Trail Gear offer for brake lines for their lift kits for a starting point if you still want to change something after getting the initial problem fixed.

[Redcreeper]

Yeah i think the same way but I have had soft brakes and when it goes backward at the top of bunce in reverse when I am standing on it something is broke. Then I cut a line so might as well get it right. Looks hokie. Don't want to take the family out in a rig with hokie brakes. Already had a close counter on spring creek switchbacks going into Georgetown. It is all a custom set up so not sure how a call to autozone to see if its suppose to be like this will help. I will get over to AAi and see if I can get marching lines to start. Thanks for the input.

[Brody]

AAi is right around the corner from my house-literally walking distance. If you go by there, give me a call as I may be home and would enjoy meeting you. 303-507-3066

[Redcreeper]

Brody, i sware I did not know you were friends with her. Don't even know her name. Haha

I am trying to get out of her around lunch time. Will give you a haller.

[Redcreeper]

Brody was nice chatting wit ya. The guys over there were helpful and confirmed i am headed in the right direction. got the braided line for the other side to make it simple and if i loose that line i can keep the old one for a spare. If anything it will look pretty under there. haha. From here i will change the front line to the smaller diameter if i still need some stopping power. Not sure why the PO had different size lines on there. KISS...... keep it simple stupid is a moto i live by. hope to have it done tonight or tomorrow. cross your fingers.

[Brody]

Nice talking to you,too. Sorry I missed you. Since I have work now, it seems to be dictating my time....

I have always like AAi. The guy that runs it is a little surly and brusque, but knows his stuff. Since I am like that too, it has never bothered me. I'll take surly and brusque with knowledge over smiling and full of BS any day of the week....

BTW, Did you notice enough difference in the throttle body spacer to justify the price? I have a supercharger on my heap, so it wouldn't do me much good, but other people might be interested in hearing how it worked for you.

[Redcreeper]

Brody,

sorry for the slow reply. crazy few days. On the spacer i waited till i was able to get the CAI also. both together sound cool but only noticed a little difference. i gained almost a gal per mile on my MPG. so in the LONG run will pay off but nothing immediate like a supercharger. only justification i can give. depends on what your goal is. mine was MPG and a little power so i think it was money well spent.


On another note still have spongy brakes. i give up. what else is there to do? power bleed? bench bleed? a bigger rock to throw out? HELP!!!

[Brody]

Thanks, I wondered about hose for a bit. Seems the TB spacers do work and it is a long run return.

As far as the brakes go, if it were me and I was sill having problems, I would seek some more professional help. Try calling Scott Young at Arvada Auto Tech and see if he can suggest something to do or someone up there who can help out.

Arvada Auto Tech (http://arvadaautotech.com/)

arvadaautotech.com
5395 Marshall Street
Arvada, CO 80002
(303) 420-5106

[scout man]

On another note still have spongy brakes. i give up. what else is there to do? power bleed? bench bleed? a bigger rock to throw out? HELP!!!

If it is a custom system anyways, you could always try switching to a hydroboost setup (assuming it is not already). I had absolutely horrible brakes for a long time and could find any fix for it, then I switch to a hydroboost unit off an old chevy, and it has been GREAT ever since. Only cost like $50 total for me. I have a thread on it somewhere.

[Chris]

I have a thread on it somewhere.

Here -> Steve's Hydroboost Thread (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?9314-My-50-hydroboost-conversion&p=98013#post98013)

[scout man]

thanks Chris :thunb:

Edit: Except that link doesnt work for me, it cant find it.

[Chris]

Try it now. ;)

[scout man]

:thunb::smokin: