Brody
November 28th, 2010, 07:05 AM
Well, since we have a huge number of rigs from yesterday's run that now weigh about 100 pounds more, I thought I would post the best way I have found to remove mud....and the cheapest.
Rather than going to the car wash right off and spending both a huge amount of time and money removing the now dried on mud, take a regular garden sprinkler (any kind actually works) or a hose and simply set it up so that the underside of your rig gets really hosed down and wet. Do the same for the top side. Just set it up and let the water run on it for awhile, moving either the hose or sprinkler head around so that everything gets thoroughly wet. When the mud starts dropping off in clumps from underneath, you will know you are getting close. THEN take it to the car wash.
Pay particular attention to areas where mud really gets caked on: behind the headlights, tail lights, skid plates, spring perches, top of the knuckles, etc. Any areas where bolts or nuts have to be routinely tightened (you do do this, right?) and anywhere where you have to access grease zerks and other fittings. You will be glad you spent the extra time doing these areas when you don't get the 8oz clot of mud in your eyes the next time you do periodic maintenance.
Remember to also clean out the wheels, both the inside and outside of the rims and also around the brakes, both drum and disc. Caked on mud, especially to the inner parts of the wheels will cause your basic 'mystery vibration' and have you checking (and worrying about ) all sorts of different things, where it is simply a matter of a bunch of mud stuck on the wheel. Mud caked in the drive shaft u joints will also do this, so be sure to get these areas, too.
Any of the guys that have grown up in states where 'wheeling' consisted of mainly mudding will confirm what I suggested and possibly offer some other suggestions.
Hope this helps!
ROO said that the name of the sprinkler and also suggested the use of PAM or WD40 as a pre mud spray.
Rather than going to the car wash right off and spending both a huge amount of time and money removing the now dried on mud, take a regular garden sprinkler (any kind actually works) or a hose and simply set it up so that the underside of your rig gets really hosed down and wet. Do the same for the top side. Just set it up and let the water run on it for awhile, moving either the hose or sprinkler head around so that everything gets thoroughly wet. When the mud starts dropping off in clumps from underneath, you will know you are getting close. THEN take it to the car wash.
Pay particular attention to areas where mud really gets caked on: behind the headlights, tail lights, skid plates, spring perches, top of the knuckles, etc. Any areas where bolts or nuts have to be routinely tightened (you do do this, right?) and anywhere where you have to access grease zerks and other fittings. You will be glad you spent the extra time doing these areas when you don't get the 8oz clot of mud in your eyes the next time you do periodic maintenance.
Remember to also clean out the wheels, both the inside and outside of the rims and also around the brakes, both drum and disc. Caked on mud, especially to the inner parts of the wheels will cause your basic 'mystery vibration' and have you checking (and worrying about ) all sorts of different things, where it is simply a matter of a bunch of mud stuck on the wheel. Mud caked in the drive shaft u joints will also do this, so be sure to get these areas, too.
Any of the guys that have grown up in states where 'wheeling' consisted of mainly mudding will confirm what I suggested and possibly offer some other suggestions.
Hope this helps!
ROO said that the name of the sprinkler and also suggested the use of PAM or WD40 as a pre mud spray.