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foxtrot
March 8th, 2011, 01:31 PM
My rear case has had some problem since I installes the duals. when I am shifting from 2hi into 4hi, the shifter sometimes gets stuck halfway. I then have to take it out and re do everything. has anyone ever had this happen? and what did you do to fix it? there are two shift rails in the t-case, one for 2/4wd and the other for hi/lo. it is getting wedged in between the two rails.

Volcom
March 8th, 2011, 02:01 PM
Did you put the interlock pin back in? Did you get the detent balls and springs back in?

Brody
March 8th, 2011, 02:10 PM
What Aaron said. Plus you can easily upgrade the spring to a stronger one but that solves another problem that you didn't mention....

foxtrot
March 8th, 2011, 02:26 PM
I never took them out since it was the rear case. only thing that was done to that case was to drain it, take the shifter out, put studs in it, and bolt it to theadapter. it never did this before, and that is why I am confused.

Brody
March 8th, 2011, 03:40 PM
Just out of curiousity, are you sure that you cut the hole big enough, especially if you have a body lift? Easy enough for the shifter to get bound up that way.

foxtrot
March 8th, 2011, 03:47 PM
ya, we even tried it without the shifter boot on there, we made sure the shifter does not contact anything. it is inside the case somewhere where it is getting stuck. one of my friends said the ball on the end of the shifter could get worn out and that could cause it?

Volcom
March 8th, 2011, 06:07 PM
Did you have to trim the shift rails? I'm trying to remember back 4 years ago when I originally did duel cases.

4finger
March 8th, 2011, 06:12 PM
is this an every now and then kinda problem???? when you say--

I then have to take it out and re do everything
does this mean the only way to get it unstuck is to remove the cases from the truck, tear down, put back together and try again???? or just take it out of 4 back to 2wd THEN back through the gears??

foxtrot
March 8th, 2011, 06:35 PM
means taking the shifter out (4 bolts) and manually shifting it with a screwdriver and then putting it back in. I cut the front shift rail but it didn't say anything about the reaar. im hoping I didn't need to cut the rear :/ that would suck. it wasn't specific in the instructions

foxtrot
March 8th, 2011, 06:37 PM
every now and then, yes

4finger
March 8th, 2011, 07:27 PM
was it trail-gears instructions? i remember doing my tcase and the guy i built it with was like "man, i know your supposed to trim the rail but the instructions dont say anything about it". then when we were done i was having shift issues on the bench. then we looked at the online instructions and the shift rail trimming was at the very end. yes, after the instructions of how to put it back together. it was a "note" at the end, kinda like "oh by the way". that was the front rail. i too dont remember anything about trimming the rear. i just ran out to my garage and looked and i cant find the printed off instructions i had of the dual case install.

if it shifts fine with the shifter out im thinking the shifter may be hanging up on something. maybe the spring under that conical piece that holds the shifter in???? (honestly i dont see that causing your issues but hey..................)
im kinda leaning towards what Volcom said in post 2. detent ball. maybe the socket it sits in is getting worn out. now that i think about it, i do remember TG's instructions talking about there bieng 2 different types of shift rails, and if you had one type you didnt need to trim and if you had the other you had to cut off like an inch!?!?!?!?. but i dont remember the 2 types of shift rails, wether it was the difference between top shift or foraward shift, or just 2 different types of shift rails in the same kind of tcase????

i just re-read my post and man, is my post flighty!!!

Volcom
March 8th, 2011, 09:12 PM
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=11598405&postcount=13
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=31839.msg356278#msg356278

I had to do this to my rear case. The rear case was popping the first case out of gear. I bet that's your issue.

foxtrot
March 8th, 2011, 09:32 PM
it is doing that also, I have to shift the rear case out of 2hi to get the front to go into hi

Volcom
March 8th, 2011, 09:36 PM
it is doing that also, I have to shift the rear case out of 2hi to get the front to go into hi

Did you trim the rear case driver's side shift rail? If you didn't, you'll have to pull the cases out of the truck, pull them apart and trim that shift rail.

foxtrot
March 8th, 2011, 11:07 PM
well, I will deff. be giving TG a call in the morning about their crappy instructions. I trimmed the crawler box shift rail but not the rear case. I'm going to leave it for now, and change it once I do my oil change after the first couple trail runs.

Haku
March 9th, 2011, 12:18 AM
Bummer about that. I did mention to follow the Marlin ones to you when you were over here, since they are much better. Sucks when that stuff happens and I hope that this is the actual issue.

Brody
March 9th, 2011, 06:09 AM
Don't get me going on 'dealers or manufacturers' instructions....I have never done any kind of lift kit on anything or any kind of mod like the dual cases where the instructions were on the money. Not in 40 something years of working on various 4x4s....ever.

Waste of time contacting TG about their instructions (maybe, but worth a shot) as most manufacturers tend to get their little panties in a bunch if you criticize them. What gets me is that it would only take one or two sentences in the right place to save people some grief...and what is that? About 20 seconds worth of work? And no cost if they have the instructions on line, too.

Remember my issue with ToyTec and Stephanie's FJC lift? I mentioned that if they were to add about 2-4 sentences for clarification to their lift instructions it would make a world of difference. Well, panties got tightly knotted on the ToyTec side, the owner of the FJC forum was contacted by the owner of ToyTec and the post of the build on Stephanie's rig was removed. I got called by the owner of ToyTec and had some words with him, too. All over 2-4 sentences that would have helped me and anyone else doing one of their lifts..

Problem is that all of these companies have the dude that has done 500 XXXX installs write the instructions. Some of the stuff is so second nature to the guy that it never gets mentioned and simply left out of the instructions.

Volcom
March 9th, 2011, 10:57 AM
http://www.marlincrawler.com/sites/all/marlin/files/docs/crawler-installer.pdf
Page 9 on Marlin's instructions
"If your rear-most case is out of a 1985 to 1988 top shifting EFI (W56-A/B) tranny then you must shorten the driver's side shift rod. This is the shift rod sticking out of the rear most case when you shift into 4hi that has the flat side on top. You must trim 1/2" off of the front of this shift rod to avoid jamming between the two cases."

Like I said, I missed this paragraph when I built mine and had to pull the cases again to fix the problem.

Brody
March 9th, 2011, 05:43 PM
Like I said, I missed this paragraph when I built mine and had to pull the cases again to fix the problem.

Ouch...

At least it was included in the instructions. Me, I have NEVER EVER missed something in the instructions......(Yeah....right. Got ocean front property for sale in Arizona, too...A pet T Rex for sale...bunch of other stuff...)

Chris
March 9th, 2011, 05:45 PM
Tell me about the oceanfront in AZ Pete, I'm interested! :lmao:

foxtrot
March 9th, 2011, 05:51 PM
yep, trail gears instructions dont have that in them. looks like im pulling out the cases again

4finger
March 9th, 2011, 08:05 PM
ok- i see i must have mis-read something. i thought this was a new problem and that the dual's had been in for a little while. sorry for my rambling ideas. and now that its been mentioned i do remember having to trim my rear case shift rail. that is the issue that had me failing the bench test. i had to take mine apart 3 times. once for the shift rail issue and twice for my stupidity:mad:

Brody
March 10th, 2011, 06:27 AM
Yeah, Thomas, I can relate to the 'stupidity' part, too. I don't think you are alone there.....

4finger
March 10th, 2011, 07:31 PM
I don't think you are alone there.....
so... imagine this. me and a buddy have been working on the truck all day the day before, most of the night before. and working on hour 13 of a sunday trying to get this truck done (3-4 years ago) and we get the transfer case together for the second time, only to look over and see a bearing c-clip thingy sitting out on the bench.

the third time was more of a assurance reason than stupidity. we couldnt remember if we had done a certain step or not so we took it back apart. good thing i had a bunch of extra gaskets!!!

Brody
March 11th, 2011, 05:49 AM
only to look over and see a bearing c-clip thingy sitting out on the bench.

That 'techy talk' always confuses me....:D

Yeah....been there, too. Then you both go over and stare at the part that isn't where it is supposed to be, like staring at it is going to install it...A friend of mine and I were doing just that one day, both staring at this part, going (in our minds) "Oh man! Now we have to break the whole damn thing down AGAIN" and hadn't gotten much farther than that. Both of our girlfriends were standing in the doorway of the garage busting a gut trying not to laugh. I guess we had both been standing by the work bench simply staring down at this one part for quite awhile and they had been watching the whole time. I think they though that we had had a major synapse collapse or something....I know we didn't look like the brightest bulbs in the box at that point...

Patrolman
June 17th, 2013, 01:07 PM
Foxtrot - did you ever find a solution? I cut the floor hole and put the shifter into the rear case on my 87 4Runner. Same problem. It was the original t-case, and all I did was drain/remove and put the studs in before putting it back in. It basically won't shift into 4wd. It is in 2wd and feels "stuck". I have pulled the t-case out 2x now and it shifts perfectly fine on the ground. When I put it back in the 4Runner, no shifty. It has to be something with the rails into the crawl box. I trimmed the left rail which is the hi/low rail per instructions, but nothing about the right rail, which is the 2wd/4wd rail.

foxtrot
June 17th, 2013, 04:13 PM
I'll have to call my buddy to remember what we did. When you are taking it out and shifting on the ground, do you have both cases together or are you just taking the rear case out?

Patrolman
June 17th, 2013, 04:20 PM
Just the rear case was out on the ground. It shifts perfectly fine and is super smooth. It is a little stubborn going onto the adapter. The shift rails are in the 2wd position just like they are supposed to be. It will move most of the way to 4-hi with a fair amount of effort. It can't go into 4-low because the gates don't line up. I appreciate the help. It is stuck in the driveway and the wife is a little t'd off about it.

foxtrot
June 17th, 2013, 04:28 PM
What is the rear case out of?

Patrolman
June 17th, 2013, 05:16 PM
My 87 with a 5 speed and 22re, and it worked perfect before I put the crawl box in front of it. The front crawl box is built from a 1982 t-case and it shifts hi/low just fine with or without the t-case on back.

foxtrot
June 17th, 2013, 06:08 PM
I believe you have to trim the rod on the rear case. That's what I recall doing because we ended up tearing down the rear case to do it. When you shift it into 4hi when it's on the ground, you can see the rod stick out of the front of the case, that is the part that hits the adapter. You could probably trim it with the case together but we didn't want to risk getting metal shavings in the case or bearings.

Brucker
June 17th, 2013, 06:13 PM
I believe you have to trim the rod on the rear case. That's what I recall doing because we ended up tearing down the rear case to do it. When you shift it into 4hi when it's on the ground, you can see the rod stick out of the front of the case, that is the part that hits the adapter. You could probably trim it with the case together but we didn't want to risk getting metal shavings in the case or bearings.

This. Your one shift rod is too long and needs to be trimmed. Here are some great instructions off the Marlin Crawler website: http://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/guide/dual-case-crawler-installer (http://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/guide/dual-case-crawler-installer)You should see the note at the very bottom, this is where it describes how to handle your situation.

Patrolman
June 17th, 2013, 09:47 PM
It says to shorten the drive side shift rod by 1/2", which I already did. It now sits flush with the front of the t-case and is the hi/low shift rail. The passenger side rod still sticks out a fair amount and is the 2wd/4wd rod. It seems the instructions are conflicting since it says:

"you must shorten the driver's side shift rod. This is the shift rod sticking out of
the rear most case when you shift into 4hi that has the flat side on top."

Patrolman
June 17th, 2013, 09:59 PM
Someone else had the same problem. The trimmed the driver side, but the passenger side was still hanging up.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=92999.msg1043900#msg1043900

Unfortunately to real solution posted.

Patrolman
June 19th, 2013, 01:46 PM
I called and talked to a rep at Marlin, as well as emailed them, which resulted in no response. The rep on the phone asked about the passenger side shift rail and the "hook" on the front end of it. He thought that may be the issue.

I actually found the issue. When I was pushing the lever it marked the aluminum adapter. The front "hook" on the passenger shift rail has a small ridge on it along the passenger side. It is very thin, but enough to rub on the aluminum and not allow the shifter to move into 4-hi from 2-hi. Smoothed it out, and took a bit of the front of the hook off for good measure, and it fit like a glove. :)