Brody
June 18th, 2011, 09:29 AM
Chris brought me this CJ5 which had all the basic good stuff, but needed a bit of TLC. I took care of a lot of the TLC issues in round #1. Chris is on his way to his father in law's house today for the tune up stuff that I did a token "get it running better" adjustment on.
Keep in mind that a lot of the frame repair work is all going to get redone when the frame gets stretched this coming winter. New spring hangers are going to be used all the way around in addition to new springs. Other wise, I would have cut off and either built or bought new hangers and welded them up nicely..:D
Here is the list of stuff that got taken care of on round one:
June, 2011
WORK PERFORMED TO DATE:
Rock Rails/Sliders : Due to damaged pinch weld on the body, which was where the outer portion of the sliders was going to attach, an additional plate was needed along the body line from fender well to fender well for this mounting point. This further strengthened the entire lower body for this section.
Swing Down Tire Carrier
Clipped and boxed front bumper
Re Welded all spring hanger mounts front and rear (8 total). There was a lot of spring perch to frame rust so the welds didn't come out "pretty". They are strong, though.
Replaced all spring and shackle bushings front and rear. The picture of the bushings in the rear pretty much shows the state of all the bushings. They all had to be burnt and chiseled out.
Installed front differential breather hose
Replaced rear axle U joint
Replaced rear axle U joint-again….See end notes about axle suggestions
Bent gas pedal lever for better control
Heated and bent gear shift lever for better access
Added access panel to rear deck plate
Pressure washed entire engine compartment and undercarriage
Re welded broken front frame cross member brace and welded in a ¼”x2x2” angle for additional support. The frame had to be clamped together as it had started to twist due to broken welds on the original frame brace.
Re Welded front bull bar
Added ¼” plating for all roll bar through mounts and mounted them with four 3/8” bolts per mounting point (three points per side). Suggestion is to tie these in to the frame with tubing for more strength. Original roll cage was mounted in with three 3/8" bolts and one 5/16" bolt per side. Now it is mounted with 24 3/8' bolts that sandwich through 1/4" plate.
Removed old seat mounts, made new steel mounts for Ranger seats
Mounted new seats. This required cutting out the rear horizontal roll bar tube, welding in new side tubes and relocating the horizontal tube farther back, cutting out the bed sides and floor board to accommodate the new seat dimensions and replacing the cut out panels with new sheet metal.
Repaired the power steering hoses and bled the power steering. Added new low pressure line.
Cut the spring perches rear axle and rotated the axle to align the drive shaft angle. Re welded the spring perches. Added additional shims as necessary to fine tune angle.
Added ¼” steel spring perch plate to accommodate moving the rear axle rearward 1 1/2
Adjusted carb-partial. Needs fine tuning. I just did this by ear and the timing is a little off.
Adjusted clutch-partial. Needs fine tuning. Possibly a combination of a lighter spring and adjusting
Installed new aftermarket air intake to clear throttle linkage on carb. Stock air cleaner was touching the accelerator pump lever and forcing it down as the cleaner was tightened.
Installed new aftermarket oil breather as the stock one didn’t work with the new aftermarket air cleaner.
Installed new hood hold downs.
Removed two leaves from rear spring pack to soften ride quality. Cut off two spring clamps to also help.
Removed two leafs from front spring pack. Cut secondary leaf down to 5” for spacer and reinstalled.
Replaced both damaged/leaking brake hard lines on rear axle. Bled brakes.
Added 4 quarts of heavy duty oil to differentials, transfer case, and transmission.
Tightened all under carriage bolts, almost all of which were loose. This included transmission mounts, motor mounts, transfer case bolts, transmission bolts, etc.
Cleaned up and rerouted all plug wires and hoses in the engine compartment, adding grommets where necessary for firewall passages.
Replaced leaking exhaust manifold gaskets.
Cut off and re welded exhaust pipe ends due to slider location.
Replaced clogged fuel filter, removed old electric fuel pump (also clogged), rerouted gas line from rear of vehicle to engine bay.
Added ¼” steel plate for rear spring hanger bracing back to bumper for additional support.
Fabricated mounts and installed Hi Lift jack.
Added front tow points
Added rear tow points
Modified rear tow points to accommodate ¾” shackles.
Repaired old electric fuel pump to use as back up pump (not re installed)
Installed used after market seat covers.
Replaced passenger side exhaust hanger
Replaced all grease zerk fittings
Greased entire undercarriage
Reduced tire pressure down to 25psi for street use. Re check using chalk mark across tire or paint.
Rebuilt clutch mechanical lever
Keep in mind that a lot of the frame repair work is all going to get redone when the frame gets stretched this coming winter. New spring hangers are going to be used all the way around in addition to new springs. Other wise, I would have cut off and either built or bought new hangers and welded them up nicely..:D
Here is the list of stuff that got taken care of on round one:
June, 2011
WORK PERFORMED TO DATE:
Rock Rails/Sliders : Due to damaged pinch weld on the body, which was where the outer portion of the sliders was going to attach, an additional plate was needed along the body line from fender well to fender well for this mounting point. This further strengthened the entire lower body for this section.
Swing Down Tire Carrier
Clipped and boxed front bumper
Re Welded all spring hanger mounts front and rear (8 total). There was a lot of spring perch to frame rust so the welds didn't come out "pretty". They are strong, though.
Replaced all spring and shackle bushings front and rear. The picture of the bushings in the rear pretty much shows the state of all the bushings. They all had to be burnt and chiseled out.
Installed front differential breather hose
Replaced rear axle U joint
Replaced rear axle U joint-again….See end notes about axle suggestions
Bent gas pedal lever for better control
Heated and bent gear shift lever for better access
Added access panel to rear deck plate
Pressure washed entire engine compartment and undercarriage
Re welded broken front frame cross member brace and welded in a ¼”x2x2” angle for additional support. The frame had to be clamped together as it had started to twist due to broken welds on the original frame brace.
Re Welded front bull bar
Added ¼” plating for all roll bar through mounts and mounted them with four 3/8” bolts per mounting point (three points per side). Suggestion is to tie these in to the frame with tubing for more strength. Original roll cage was mounted in with three 3/8" bolts and one 5/16" bolt per side. Now it is mounted with 24 3/8' bolts that sandwich through 1/4" plate.
Removed old seat mounts, made new steel mounts for Ranger seats
Mounted new seats. This required cutting out the rear horizontal roll bar tube, welding in new side tubes and relocating the horizontal tube farther back, cutting out the bed sides and floor board to accommodate the new seat dimensions and replacing the cut out panels with new sheet metal.
Repaired the power steering hoses and bled the power steering. Added new low pressure line.
Cut the spring perches rear axle and rotated the axle to align the drive shaft angle. Re welded the spring perches. Added additional shims as necessary to fine tune angle.
Added ¼” steel spring perch plate to accommodate moving the rear axle rearward 1 1/2
Adjusted carb-partial. Needs fine tuning. I just did this by ear and the timing is a little off.
Adjusted clutch-partial. Needs fine tuning. Possibly a combination of a lighter spring and adjusting
Installed new aftermarket air intake to clear throttle linkage on carb. Stock air cleaner was touching the accelerator pump lever and forcing it down as the cleaner was tightened.
Installed new aftermarket oil breather as the stock one didn’t work with the new aftermarket air cleaner.
Installed new hood hold downs.
Removed two leaves from rear spring pack to soften ride quality. Cut off two spring clamps to also help.
Removed two leafs from front spring pack. Cut secondary leaf down to 5” for spacer and reinstalled.
Replaced both damaged/leaking brake hard lines on rear axle. Bled brakes.
Added 4 quarts of heavy duty oil to differentials, transfer case, and transmission.
Tightened all under carriage bolts, almost all of which were loose. This included transmission mounts, motor mounts, transfer case bolts, transmission bolts, etc.
Cleaned up and rerouted all plug wires and hoses in the engine compartment, adding grommets where necessary for firewall passages.
Replaced leaking exhaust manifold gaskets.
Cut off and re welded exhaust pipe ends due to slider location.
Replaced clogged fuel filter, removed old electric fuel pump (also clogged), rerouted gas line from rear of vehicle to engine bay.
Added ¼” steel plate for rear spring hanger bracing back to bumper for additional support.
Fabricated mounts and installed Hi Lift jack.
Added front tow points
Added rear tow points
Modified rear tow points to accommodate ¾” shackles.
Repaired old electric fuel pump to use as back up pump (not re installed)
Installed used after market seat covers.
Replaced passenger side exhaust hanger
Replaced all grease zerk fittings
Greased entire undercarriage
Reduced tire pressure down to 25psi for street use. Re check using chalk mark across tire or paint.
Rebuilt clutch mechanical lever