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EldoradoFJ60
July 13th, 2011, 08:53 PM
Sunday July 31st I'd like to get my front end rebuild taken care of.

Besides repacking the wheel bearings and all that fun stuff I'll also be installing new brake rotors, pads and lines. I hope to be able to clean and paint the calipers and whatever else is in need of a little TLC.

I've got all the parts, ordering the brake parts this Friday.

So for this task I require the assistance of specialized persons.

Guy with tools. :wrench:
Guy that has done this before and knows what he is doing.:thumb::thumb:
Strong guy. :D:D
Guy to sit around drinking beer and tell us we're doing it wrong. :smokin:

If you feel you fit in one of these categories please reply to this thread.

Rob
July 13th, 2011, 09:58 PM
Guy to sit around drinking beer and tell us we're doing it wrong.

That would be Chris (minus the beer), but he's in Hawaii. He was in charge of that when I rebuilt the 40's front end. And, damn, he's good at it. :bowdown:

Pete has the hub socket you'll need.

I did mine two years ago, so the only thing I remember is removing the hub nuts. Easy enough to find a good set of instructions. I might be able to help, but I can't commit just yet.

Zukrider
July 14th, 2011, 02:40 AM
IM ALL OF THOSE THINGS!

done front end rebuilds lots of times, though never on a 60. but hey, nuts and bolts are buts and nolts, right?

count me in if you'll have me! i have a "toyota"hub socket, not sure if all toyotas are the same?

joe

EldoradoFJ60
July 14th, 2011, 07:08 AM
Maybe Chris will be back from Hawaii and can play the role of the beer drinking guy.

Brody
July 14th, 2011, 07:14 AM
done front end rebuilds lots of times, though never on a 60. but hey, nuts and bolts are buts and nolts, right?

count me in if you'll have me! i have a "toyota"hub socket, not sure if all toyotas are the same?

joe

Same as any straight Toyota axle, so if you have done some, you are dialed into this one. Just hose all the cone washer stuff (hub nuts, steering arms) down a lot with PB Blaster. Same 54mm socket, too.

Java
July 14th, 2011, 07:42 AM
I did this job on my 86 FJ60 and my 81 PU, not too hard but mega-messy. Get lots of rags and a box of rubber gloves before you start!! If you need it, I have some tools, I'm stronger than my sister and I can sit almost anywhere...

EldoradoFJ60
July 14th, 2011, 07:43 AM
Cool. I can offer beer and some grilled meat. Plus my place has a nice view. Just ask ClintZ.

edog
July 14th, 2011, 11:18 AM
I will not be available for this but I have most of the tools needed and I am local as well. PM me if you would like to to use them, some that come to mind are the 54 mm socket, seal puller, PVC cut to length to knock the birf out of the axle shaft, etc.

EldoradoFJ60
July 14th, 2011, 02:13 PM
I will not be available for this but I have most of the tools needed and I am local as well. PM me if you would like to to use them, some that come to mind are the 54 mm socket, seal puller, PVC cut to length to knock the birf out of the axle shaft, etc.


Thanks. Might take you up on the tool loan. :thumb:

Chris
July 15th, 2011, 02:06 AM
Guy to sit around and tell us we're doing it wrong. :smokin:


I may be able to fill that need and save you beer money to boot! I don't see any mention of rebuilding the knuckles though? Is that part of the "fun stuff!"

I may leave Hawaii early for this! :smokin:

Brody
July 15th, 2011, 07:02 AM
Here are the links that I posted in the Toyota Make and Model section. I couldn't get the 4 Crawler link to open, but the 4x4 Wire link write is just as good or better. Very step by step with a lot of photos.

Basic front end rebuild:

I thought that I would post some links to replacing Birfields, replacing CVs, a trail fix for Birfields and other links that would be useful information.

Basic front end rebuild:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/solid_axle/

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eRebuild.shtml

CV rebuild/replacement (all IFS have these)

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...ir-w-pics.html

More on front ends:

http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/co...n/fj40/14B.htm

http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/co...n/fj40/14B.htm

If you need any tools (jack stands, etc) holler at me today via email or phone and I can make arrangements to leave them out for you. We are doing a trail run tomorrow and rock climbing Sunday, so I don't need anything back before Sunday night or Monday AM.

Zukrider
July 15th, 2011, 10:36 PM
great info Pete! ive got him covered on jack, stands, grinder, tools, etc.. as long as i am welcome to join!

EldoradoFJ60
July 16th, 2011, 07:51 AM
Of course you're welcome. When I did my suspension I had 3 people that we're supposed to help, only one showed up.

Chris
July 16th, 2011, 11:05 AM
But those guys weren't Front Range folks! ;)

Zukrider
July 17th, 2011, 12:27 PM
ill be there. its on the calender, and my lady knows. just pm me the info. see ya there! what tools are needed? i have all the hand tools. need a jack, stands, grinder, welder? let me know!

4Runninfun
July 17th, 2011, 12:44 PM
But those guys weren't Front Range folks! ;)

lot of truth there. Not too many flakes on this board!

eldorado if people do have to bail I can help out. But there doesn't seam to be a need for me to drive that far looks like you got plenty of strong guys, beer drinkers and know-it-alls :lol: :thunb:

Jackie
July 17th, 2011, 12:56 PM
I can do the beer drinkin' part, but nothing else to offer! :p

OHHH!... I could NAG if you want! :D

EldoradoFJ60
July 17th, 2011, 02:26 PM
I'll need jack stands and the hub socket for sure.

A buddy of mine has the SST for the hubs, so that will help a ton.

Chris
July 17th, 2011, 04:35 PM
I can do the beer drinkin' part, but nothing else to offer! :p

OHHH!... I could NAG if you want! :D

Hey Jackie, you could drink the beer I won't so we can co-supervise. I'll keep an eye on the work and tell you when and what to nag them about!

"Clean those parts better than that!"

"Did you double-check the torque values?"

"Oops! You forgot the backing plate" (for Rob)

"Work that grease in those bearings!"

:lmao:

Rob
July 17th, 2011, 05:55 PM
"Oops! You forgot the backing plate" (for Rob)

:lmao: I had that inscribed on my backing plate. I'll never forget again. :)

Java
July 17th, 2011, 10:38 PM
I'll need jack stands and the hub socket for sure.

I have a coupon for these for $12.99 that is good to 7/31/11: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-heavy-duty-jack-stands-38846.html

if you want to own a set. It's in the July circular, or if you want to PM me an address I can mail it to you.

Zukrider
July 17th, 2011, 11:10 PM
thats a good price, but i have ya covered on stands!

EldoradoFJ60
July 19th, 2011, 07:36 AM
Okay we have stands and the hub SST.

How much grease am I going to need? Will 2 tubs of the Lucas stuff at Napa or Checker be enough? Any recommendations on grease?

I'll also pick up a gallon of gear oil for the front diff. Might take a while for the grey dog diarrhea to drain out.

I also ordered new wheel studs. The old ones aren't in the best shape. No sense it putting old studs on new rotors. Also ordered speed bleeders for the front.

Brody
July 19th, 2011, 02:33 PM
You will go through at least one LARGE tub of grease. Any synthetic or marine grease will work just fine as will any generic grease that you can use on wheel bearings. I tend to use synthetic when I can.

Chris
July 19th, 2011, 03:56 PM
It's recommended using a moly blend grease which is available at any parts place, I think it's the Chrysler labeled stuff is a moly-blend but probably any decent grease would work.

Java
July 19th, 2011, 08:14 PM
I did mine with kits from (I think, can't recall exactly) CCOT and they came with big tubs of grease, Valvoline moly blend. I used the whole tub to pack by hand and afterwards still had room to pump in some more through the plug on top of the Birfield. I'd get 2 tubs, return one if you don't use it, and I'd also make sure you have a grease gun with atleast a full tube. You can't really over-do the grease on that job. And for sure get some rubber gloves, or a BF tub of Gojo, and a couple of rolls of paper towels, I made a royal mess of myself the first time. I won't know my schedule for that weekend until next week so I'm just a maybe at this point, but if it ends up being a couple of guys you can probably do both sides at the same time and wrap it up pretty quickly.

Chris
July 19th, 2011, 08:21 PM
Good point on the gloves Paul! I used Purple Power to clean my parts when I rebuilt it and didn't wear gloves. The next day my hands looked like I dipped them in boiling water. :oops:

EldoradoFJ60
July 22nd, 2011, 08:29 AM
Well I'll have a 12 pack of Red Stripe on hand and can pick up some meat to grill.

This could also turn out to be a pool party since I have some free passes for the Eldorado Springs pool. If anyone feels like cooling off after wrenching. :wrench: :cool:

Any special tool needed to press out wheel studs? I ordered new ones for the front end.

EldoradoFJ60
July 25th, 2011, 05:49 PM
Well less than a week away. It looks like my buddy with one of the SST's will be out of town, so no dice with that.

This is a new video of the knuckle tear down just posted on MUD.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3CI4mmEv6A

Zukrider
July 25th, 2011, 05:59 PM
whats a SST? ill still be there. jack stands, floor jack, hi lift and lots o hand tools. i have a toy hub socket and a BIG ASS church key

EldoradoFJ60
July 25th, 2011, 06:09 PM
whats a SST? ill still be there. jack stands, floor jack, hi lift and lots o hand tools. i have a toy hub socket and a BIG ASS church key

SST = Special Service Tool. There is a tool for pressing out the races. I don't have a brass drift.

I have mostly basic tools. 1/2" drive breaker and torque wrench, but a limited selection of sockets so far. Plenty of 3/8" sockets but no 3/8" breaker or torque wrench.

I need to remember to print the Toyota knuckle rebuild manual at work. Also might need a scale for setting the pre-load dealies.

Zukrider
July 25th, 2011, 06:20 PM
you can use any punch to get races out, and use the old race to drive the new one. i dont own or use a torque wrench on drivetrain stuff, so your up on that. i dont have or know of a knuckle pull guage, so your also up on that one!

what time were we planning?

also, i need a location.

joe

Chris
July 25th, 2011, 06:22 PM
Forget the fish scale Bruce, nobody ends up trusting them and goes by feel instead. Post up what tools you need, I can bring them and assume I have them handy. A brass drift works fine on the races as does a proper size socket and hammer.

I plan to be there Sunday filling the role of supervisor and beer drinker minus the beer. ;)

I'm missing my Cruiser after dealing with electronic malfunctions in the new 4Runner which are finally resolved. Save me from reading the entire thread, who's committed to being there besides Zukrider?

Chris
July 25th, 2011, 06:29 PM
I need to remember to print the Toyota knuckle rebuild manual at work.

Here you go: http://www.yankeetoys.org/Documents/FJ_FrontHub_Rebuild.zip

Are you hitting everything with PBBlaster?

EldoradoFJ60
July 25th, 2011, 06:42 PM
Here you go: http://www.yankeetoys.org/Documents/FJ_FrontHub_Rebuild.zip

Are you hitting everything with PBBlaster?

I need to pick up some more PB but I have been hitting it for the past couple months in anticipation.

I'll PM my address to you guys.

Chris
July 25th, 2011, 06:44 PM
I should have the seal puller, clip pliers but suggest making a list of what you will be needing.

EldoradoFJ60
July 25th, 2011, 06:53 PM
I should have the seal puller, clip pliers but suggest making a list of what you will be needing.

Pickle fork or bearing puller for TRE's. Those are new so will go easily I reckon.

Big hub socket. Big floor jack and stands. Zukirider has these items.

A set of 1/2" drive sockets would be good. Acetylene torch, air compressor...hah! :eek:

EldoradoFJ60
July 25th, 2011, 06:57 PM
Oh, yeah. Got new wheel studs for the front. So possibly something to press studs in and out. I do have a bench vise, but that might not work.

Chris
July 25th, 2011, 07:16 PM
Hmm, I'll see if my oxy/acetylene has any gas. I should have 1/2 sockets and breaker bar though not as big as may be needed.

Java
July 25th, 2011, 07:23 PM
I have to work in the AM for a few hours, but can get up there mid morning as it stands. what time are you getting started? I have a seal puller for the axle seal, a tie rod end puller or two, and I saw the big hub socket you need sitting on a shelf in my garage yesterday. I have a 3 in 1 u-joint + service kit that my help with the studs. I can bring 1/2" tools, a torque wrench, and if you don't have air, a light duty cordless impact driver. Probably just make a big bag of tools.

EldoradoFJ60
July 25th, 2011, 07:56 PM
I have to work in the AM for a few hours, but can get up there mid morning as it stands. what time are you getting started? I have a seal puller for the axle seal, a tie rod end puller or two, and I saw the big hub socket you need sitting on a shelf in my garage yesterday. I have a 3 in 1 u-joint + service kit that my help with the studs. I can bring 1/2" tools, a torque wrench, and if you don't have air, a light duty cordless impact driver. Probably just make a big bag of tools.

Those items will really help.

Chris I was kidding about the torch. :)

I'm up early so I'll get started around 8:30'ish. The night before I'll take the drain plug off my front diff so the sludge can drain out.

Chris
July 25th, 2011, 08:01 PM
Chris I was kidding about the torch. :)

You wouldn't if you're doing spring bushings! :smokin:

Rob
July 25th, 2011, 08:33 PM
I'll bring brass drifts and my brass hammer, along with scales if you want to use them.

EldoradoFJ60
July 25th, 2011, 08:47 PM
I'll bring brass drifts and my brass hammer, along with scales if you want to use them.

Appreciated. Hell with 4 of us we should be done in about 20 minutes.

Rob
July 25th, 2011, 08:48 PM
we should be done in about 20 minutes.

:lmao: If only...

Chris
July 25th, 2011, 09:07 PM
Hell with 4 of us we should be done in about 20 minutes.

:lmao:

Brody
July 28th, 2011, 06:22 AM
. Got new wheel studs for the front. So possibly something to press studs in and out. I do have a bench vise, but that might not work.

All you need for these are a crappy lug nut or two and a hammer to get them out and a hammer to drive them back in if you are talking lug nuts.Usually just take a solid tap.

EldoradoFJ60
July 28th, 2011, 07:23 AM
That will work. :thumb:

I'm going to start tearing into the front end on Saturday so things go smoother on Sunday. I'll drain the front diff as much as possible and see if I can clean and loosen things up. I'll probably clean and paint my hub dials so that will be out of the way.

If might see if I can get a hold of some jack stands and do my rear brakes Saturday.

EldoradoFJ60
July 28th, 2011, 02:12 PM
Boulder Napa is useless. Last week I reserved some items online. Brake lines #38881 for the front end and a set of speed bleeders. Never got a call. Went there today and the counter people have no intent or ability to help you. They didn't have my parts. I'm sure I can pick up what I need from Checker/O'Reiley. I won't be visiting Napa anymore out of principle.

Java
July 28th, 2011, 02:48 PM
My Sunday morning is a lot busier than my Saturday afternoon, if you need extra hands breaking it down on Saturday after 12 I'm free til the evening

EldoradoFJ60
July 28th, 2011, 04:04 PM
My Sunday morning is a lot busier than my Saturday afternoon, if you need extra hands breaking it down on Saturday after 12 I'm free til the evening

Yeah if you wanna lend a hand with the prep that would be great.

Still trying to source some brake lines that will work.

Haku
July 29th, 2011, 01:10 AM
Boulder Napa is useless. Last week I reserved some items online. Brake lines #38881 for the front end and a set of speed bleeders. Never got a call. Went there today and the counter people have no intent or ability to help you. They didn't have my parts. I'm sure I can pick up what I need from Checker/O'Reiley. I won't be visiting Napa anymore out of principle.

Not sure what the heck has happened to Napa, but I have that experience at the two closest ones to me too. At the nearest one, you are lucky if they even acknowledge you are there, and even then they don't know anything about parts or where to look. They are also substantially more expensive. I bought a Busman Fuse block at one of them, but they didn't have something else so I went to an Advance, and Advance sold an IDENTICAL fuse block for more then 10 dollars cheaper. Thats a huge difference for something in the 20-40 dollar range. The closest auto parts place to me is an AutoZone, and they have a chick there who really knows her stuff and is very friendly and helpful, so I usually go there. NAPA used to be the "go to" place, but there are only a few of them in Denver that are that way anymore (Havana Auto Parts and the main warehouse being the two best ones I have experienced). Thats true of most of the Auto Parts chains though. Some stores have knowledgeable staff members and others don't.

I'd come get greasy with ya, but you chose the one weekend where I am going camping and wheeling to do your stuff (its the Toyota Jamboree this weekend).

EldoradoFJ60
July 30th, 2011, 05:50 PM
Well Java (Paul) came over at 11 this morning and we tore into the front end. He was a beast and we got it apart in 2 hours. I've spent the rest of the day cleaning and painting parts. Damn there is a lot of stuff to clean up.

Pics forthcoming.

SO far I've done nothing but clean and paint parts for the last 5 hours. Good thing Paul came over today. I can be anal about cleanliness on my own time. :thumb:

Need to figure out what to do with these.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s240/ilbruche/Landcruiser/July302011007.jpg

Outer hub dials.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s240/ilbruche/Landcruiser/July302011006.jpg

Finally a use for old climbing gear.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s240/ilbruche/Landcruiser/July302011005.jpg

Clean hub and spindle.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s240/ilbruche/Landcruiser/July302011004.jpg

Inner dials.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s240/ilbruche/Landcruiser/July302011003.jpg

Axle shafts and birfs.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s240/ilbruche/Landcruiser/July302011002.jpg

Naked knuckle balls.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s240/ilbruche/Landcruiser/July302011001.jpg

Rob
July 30th, 2011, 06:11 PM
Wow, good start. But now Chris has less to supervise. :D

Java
July 30th, 2011, 07:25 PM
that was good work today, wish eveything went so smoothly. thanks for accommodating my idiotic schedule. the degreasing and painting looks great so far (the spindle and hub look new!!), Sunday is going to be a much cleaner day!

EldoradoFJ60
July 30th, 2011, 07:50 PM
Well I'm slowly learning the ways of the Landcruiser. Got the hubs off the rotors. The key is, remove bolts, beat with hammer. This process seems to apply to almost everything and usually works.

I'm starting to bring my cleaning operation inside. Time to work on the knuckles and other little doodads.

EldoradoFJ60
July 30th, 2011, 08:56 PM
Gonna need some sort of grease gun tomorrow. I have a 4lb tub but I need a way to get some in from the top. I have a small gun but not sure if it will work.

I ran out of gloves, so we'll need some more. I resorted to making little mitts out of saran wrap to scoop grease out. A can of brake cleaner wouldn't hurt. I forgot how fast that crap shoots out.

Going kinda overkill on the cleaning. Right now everything is in my bathtub soaking in Break Free CLP. I know it's made for guns but it works.

Zukrider
July 30th, 2011, 09:31 PM
nice! i loaded up, should be there around 830 or 9. no luck on a grease gun.

Robert B
July 30th, 2011, 09:40 PM
napa in the springs has gone down also ..quality has gone down and price is either up or still high

Rob
July 30th, 2011, 09:52 PM
I can bring a grease gun if you have a tube of grease.

Rob
July 30th, 2011, 10:04 PM
Actually, I have two grease guns and both have grease in them. Can't say if it's the right grease, though.

Brody
July 31st, 2011, 06:11 AM
Looking good so far! Nice and new looking!

Anyone live by me and going over to Bruce's is welcome to stop and borrow a grease gun. Home from Ash and Karla's(and the dogs) in an hour or two..

EldoradoFJ60
July 31st, 2011, 04:24 PM
Rob and Joe came over this morning to lend a hand with putting things together. Couldn't have done it without them. :thumb:


The new wiper seal we couldn't figure out how to put on.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s240/ilbruche/Landcruiser/July312011001.jpg

SST made out of an old tie rod for pounding in wheel studs.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s240/ilbruche/Landcruiser/July312011002.jpg

Tightening things up.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s240/ilbruche/Landcruiser/July312011003.jpg

And the last SNAFU. Forgot the hub gasket so I had to take it off. Been trying to get this snap ring back on without snap ring pliers. I have the zip tie to hold the axle with my teeth. But getting the ring apart has been a PITA. Hopefully I can get it back in and the brakes squared away tonight.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s240/ilbruche/Landcruiser/July312011004.jpg

Java
July 31st, 2011, 05:09 PM
the snap ring- find a socket that just barely fits or just barely doesn't fit over the end of your axle shaft. If you don't have one you can do it with a flat surface such as a flat piece of metal or a small chunck of 2x4. see where the end of the axle shaft tapers down at the end? put the snap ring on that surface, as much on the taper as possible. put the socket against it and hit it evenly with your hammer, the ring should spread and make it on the shaft.

if that doesn't work, put the snap ring in your vice with the open end up, and just the bottom of the ring opposite of the opening in the vice. Spread it using two vicegrips or whatever you can and put a big screwdriver sideways (or something) in the opening of the ring to keep it spread. carefully walk that out to the axle shaft without it popping off the screwdriver and see if you can't slide it on.

another thought, remember the way the old seals from the back of the knuckle came off, they were a bigger ring that had an opening and you had to twist them a little- I wonder if you could put the snap ring on the end of the shaft and put one end over the shaft by twisting it, then the other?

EldoradoFJ60
July 31st, 2011, 06:35 PM
Well I got the ring back on.

But now it's thundering and pouring rain. Brakes will have to wait until tomorrow. This will give me a chance to order a caliper rebuild kit from Checker.

Zukrider
July 31st, 2011, 08:40 PM
dude, your calipers are fine. dont rebuild them. it may cause issue you would otherwise not have. it was nice to meet you, and im glad i could help. hats off to Rob, he was the hero of the day!

Java
July 31st, 2011, 08:53 PM
x2 on don't rebuild the calipers- if they're fine leave them, and if not just buy a rebuilt one, they are a PITA to rebuild and not too muchof a savings to do it yourself. it also opens up the whole bleeding can of worms which is super fun by yourself. the front calipers both looked fine to me and were functioning when they came off, as did your pads and rotors (althought I do get the wisdom of replacing the rotors while it's all apart). I'd put them back and run it, see how it feels before rebuilding them. they're easy enough to revisit later anyway, two bolts and the pins and you're there.

the pics from today look great, you did a bang up job cleaning / rebuilding it! :thumb:

Brody
July 31st, 2011, 08:56 PM
What Joe said on the calipers...

Sorry I didn't get you call earlier which was probably about the snap ring issue. I was working and making too much noise to hear the phone.

I just use two small flat head screwdrivers to get the ring back on and have never had any problems doing it that way. I also use the same two small flat heads to take them off.

Glad to hear that it got fixed fine. Looked to the west and wondered how you guys were doing. Looked really wet....

EldoradoFJ60
July 31st, 2011, 09:05 PM
The caliper rebuild doesn't really involve much. Just new o rings for the pistons. Don't have to take the caliper apart.

Rob
July 31st, 2011, 09:26 PM
he was the hero of the day

Huh? You did most of the work and had most of the knowledge. I was just keeping the sun off you guys. :)

ColoRaider
July 31st, 2011, 09:57 PM
wow.. how did I miss this thread..... Well, if anyone else attempts this I would be happy to help, and I have all of the tools(drifts, sockets, scales etc) This was the first thing i did with my rig. Man I wish I would have seen this, it would have been nice to have an excuse to take a break from school work...

Chris
August 1st, 2011, 03:57 PM
My apologies for bailing on you guys leaving you w/o my supervision though it sounds like Rob covered for me quite well. Barb & I took off Thursday for Buena Vista to test our "new" popup and things went so well we just got home today.

Fordguy77
August 1st, 2011, 04:18 PM
Hopefully when i tear into mine this next month things will go as smooth as yours did

Java
August 1st, 2011, 09:08 PM
I just use two small flat head screwdrivers to get the ring back on and have never had any problems doing it that way. I also use the same two small flat heads to take them off.

the passenger side wouldn't work with my snap ring pliers, the opening in the ring on that side was a little larger than the drivers side and the pliers were too far on thier arc to open the ring, they slipped off and we ended up using two screwdrivers to take it off... but it was a really butch minute or two, can't really say there was any technique to it, we just spread the ring and shoved the screwdrivers under it until it popped. pretty sure there was some hammer in there too. I'd love to refine that, how do you do it with the screwdrivers?

and Bruce, are you done with it?

EldoradoFJ60
August 1st, 2011, 09:27 PM
Just got back from a test drive. Got the brakes back on and torqued the lug nuts and hubs. Did some parking lot circles in both directions and everything seems fine. The annoying "tink" noise I was getting whenever I tapped the brake pedal is gone.

It definitely feels "different". Got home and retorqued the lug nuts and gave everything a once over. Tomorrow on lunch break I'll tighten down everything again. I will need to find a good method for pumping more grease into the knuckles. I only put 2 quarts of fluid in the diff. I wanna mix up some of the remaining sludge, drain it and refill later this week.

Java
August 1st, 2011, 09:41 PM
I bet it feels different! Probably better than new with all the high-end parts you got. :thumb: The only way I know to fill the birf is to take out the square plug on top and pump away with a grease gun. I guess if ones not handy you could also "pastry chef" some into it with a plastic bag with a corner cut off... that may be a stupid idea...

Robert B
August 2nd, 2011, 12:48 AM
I guess if ones not handy you could also "pastry chef" some into it with a plastic bag with a corner cut off... that may be a stupid idea...
thats actually good if you just have a tub of grease ...scoop it into the bag and "pipe" away :)

Brody
August 2nd, 2011, 05:43 AM
we ended up using two screwdrivers to take it off... but it was a really butch minute or two, can't really say there was any technique to it, we just spread the ring and shoved the screwdrivers under it until it popped. pretty sure there was some hammer in there too. I'd love to refine that, how do you do it with the screwdrivers?

OK, I'll try to explain it where it makes sense as I just did it on my heap yesterday when I replaced the rotors and pads.

The screwdrivers are small, both about the size of ones you would work on computers with, and are flat heads. I take the edge of one, slide it into the spline on the axle near the opening of the snap ring. I get it under the ring where I can raise the ring a little, and slide the other under the ring. With a little finesse, you can then pop the ring off. Installation is more or less the reverse: tilt the snap ring onto the end of the axle shaft a little bit, slide one of the screw drivers under the higher side close to the open part of the ring, pry gently, and the ring should snap back onto the shaft. This is actually the harder part as there is a 'sweet spot' where this works really well.

I hope this explains it well enough. I have always had problems finding the 'right' set of snap ring pliers that will work in that tight space and hold well enough on greasy slippery stuff.

EldoradoFJ60
August 2nd, 2011, 07:06 AM
The bag idea is perfect. I was going to use a big syringe. A bag will work better I think.

edog
August 2nd, 2011, 07:28 AM
I have a grease gun and am local, I use it to pump grease into my birfs which should be comparable. Hit me up if you would like to borrow, I am around all week.

Erik

Java
August 2nd, 2011, 08:26 AM
Thanks, Brody, I can visualize it from your description. :thumb:

Java
August 2nd, 2011, 03:30 PM
OK, can't believe I forgot this one, I did it to mine but it was years ago, I found it on CCOT's site and remembered it today while I was driving. the square drain plug on the Birfield, take it out, drill and tap it for a zerk, fill your Birfs at will with a grease gun from here on out without removing the plug. I think you can even find a pre-drilled one online.

Brody
August 2nd, 2011, 05:49 PM
Yeah, I was going to mention that, but it never seemed worth the effort or money for the pre drilled one. I simply take the end off the grease gun, stick the tube sans nozzle, into the hole and pump it full. Be surprised how much grease comes out the tube without the restrictive fitting on the end..

Volcom
August 2nd, 2011, 07:00 PM
The knuckle doesn't need to be full of grease. Just enough to pack inside the birfield and a mild coating of grease on the outside of the birfield. If you have to pull a birfield out on the trail, you'll be wishing the knuckle wasn't packed full.