Capitol Blue TJ

[dcoop]

Couple years and stuff is getting done. Started as a 14 year old TJ that was in rough shape. The first owner before my dad flopped the Jeep and did all kinds of shotty body work. Been spending these two years fixing it and doing other small things.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Jeep%20Paint%20Job/438f0697.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Jeep%20Paint%20Job/e348bcee.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Jeep%20Paint%20Job/ff2835e5.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Jeep%20Paint%20Job/d3ad578c.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Jeep%20Paint%20Job/d8ea6795.jpg

Started on the inside. Got my Monstaliner earlier this week, started prep today.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Monstaliner/fe08c546.jpg

Basically the seam sealer the first owner used on the passenger side was toast. Cracking and rusting. Spent a LOT of time getting it out.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Monstaliner/59c5b262.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Monstaliner/d6bb4e7c.jpg

Along with the Monstaliner I got a quart of Chassis Saver. It was free because JeepForum members get free shipping and a free quart of Chassis Saver. Put that stuff down on any bare metal, seams, and where there had been rust.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Monstaliner/cd3fb5c4.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Monstaliner/de1e7521.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Monstaliner/a7b07f63.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Monstaliner/4c0292f5.jpg

Chassis Saver is dried and just finished up putting the new seam sealer in. Monstaliner will go in tomorrow.

[Brody]

Looking good!

It has to make you feel pretty good to see the transition!

[Java]

great prep work, that's gonna pay off for years. :thumb:

[dcoop]

This stuff should last a long time! My next step is to inspect the underside of the tub and seal some stuff up. I think that's how those seams got bad in the first place. When I was working on a section on the drivers side I pulled out the factory seam sealer and could see light from the other side. That tells me water and crud was getting at it from outside.

Anyway, got the Jeep put back together. This stuff is already rock hard, but isn't suppose to be fully cured for a week.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Monstaliner/5046efa4.jpg

Did the whole roll cage.
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Monstaliner/d70c2caf.jpg

Where I came up to on the door sill.
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Monstaliner/aac6e0bf.jpg

The next things on the list:
-Repaint front bumper, rocker guards, and front portion of the frame with the chassis saver (or maybe the whole frame if I have enough). Luckily my frame is in AWESOME condition, no rust, but the front portion is fading gray and looks bad.
-Seat covers
-Upper soft doors to match the top (since I converted from a spice top)
-Rear crossmember
-Maybe something new with the rockers to cover up the chip in the paint,
-Tires (maybe late this year before snow or early next summer).

I also might be able to do a Rokmen gas tank skid with the new rear crossmember.

Oh, and I ordered a new OEM TPS and mucket seal for the drivers side door surround. Without that seal the damn thing rattles like crazy.

[DETN8R]

Awesome Job. I had wanted to do this to my jeep last summer but never got around to it.

[dcoop]

So I've found a guy here on Longmont who is selling a D44 out of an '01 TJ for 450$. I'm anxiously awaiting a response!

[Funrover]

I really do like the flush tail lights a lot more

[dcoop]

With school about to start I've pretty much realized nothing is going to happen with the rear crossmember. I don't have the time to go fabricating a whole new crossmember. So I discovered gen right is having a sale on certain items, one of which was their rear crossmember kit. It's not full replacement, it just slips over the old one, but it was 30$ off so I got the whole thing for 184$ shipped. Figure I'll just chassis saver over the old on, bang it straight, and cover it.

What it looks like:

http://www.genright.com/images/products/RBB1001_MULTI_md.jpg

I would like to do a new gas tank skid. I could go pick one up from Rokmen, but I don't know if I have the budget for that right now. Maybe I'll do the stock gas tank skid mod.

[dcoop]

Got the Genright crossmember yesterday. Pulled everything off the front and started painting. I now just have to wait until the new gas tank strap comes in and the quart of monstaliner.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/49b29f59.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/84f2de29.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/7296c90f.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/b79813dd.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/8aa8e993.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/a12c8467.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/60c13971.jpg

Also got sway bar is back on and painted black along with half the bumper. It's all put back together for now, once I get the monstaliner it will go on the front bumper, new crossmember, rocker guards, 3 or 4 inches up the rocker panels, and some inside touch up. I've also got a bunch of chassis saver left so when I drop the gas tank I'm doing the 1" clearance mod and will clean it up with the CS.

Also ordered a tiny little Sony 4 channel amp, 400 watts, and people seem to love it. Next on the list are new upper doors and tires, maybe head unit. The one in their currently seems to be doing fine and isn't turning off with every bump in the road.

[dcoop]

The amp came in today. Got to figure out where to put it. It's not going to fit in the console, I could put it under the seat but I can guarantee it would get wet.

Also I have discovered one of my tail lights is only partially working. With the running lights on only 4 LEDs light up, and when the brakes are applied still only about half turn on. It's obvious what the problem is, you can see moisture on the inside of the lens. This is also fault of my own, no fault of superbrightleds or shotty parts. It's because when I was installing that particular light I dropped it and part of the lip on the lens where it meets the rest of the housing chipped off. Other than cursing myself out and being pissed off, once installed you couldn't notice it and didn't think anything of it. Well upon further inspection it's pretty obvious this broke the air tight seal and let moisture in. I've got the light in a bag of rice in hopes of drying it out, then I'll try and put use some sealer to seal it. Other wise I'll have to buy a new one.

[dcoop]

Got the amp mounted and wired up. Everything works great -well- except for the speakers. They are pretty crappy and it really shows with the added power of the amp. Might have to drop some hints for my birthday. Other than that night and day difference. I got worried after I did some more digging on the Sony amp, but am not disappointed in the least. Some people were having problems with popping, but everything is clear.

Power wires hang down a bit low, but 6AWG wire isn't exactly easy to work with.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Sound%20System/e09cf2fe.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Sound%20System/21f4046e.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Sound%20System/e2ac70ea.jpg

It's all extremely very tight with all the pedals and steering column, but everything works as it should, including the steering wheel tilt.

Also got what I needed to start on the new crossmember. Still waiting on the Monstaliner.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/b7b160c1.jpg

Way bigger than I was thinking, but that's okay.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/47c394f7.jpg

Last night I placed an order for a new light, rice wasn't working and I din't feel like farting around with it. The lights themselves are only like 16$.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/efc89594.jpg

Might be able to see the condensation inside.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/c4439a9b.jpg

[Brody]

looks really good so far!

What kind/size speakers you looking for?

[dcoop]

Thinking about stuffing 5.25" speakers in the front to match the sound bar. But I've already got the bracket made for the 4" speakers. Don't know a TON about speakers, so I don't know if the difference is really going to matter a lot since I'm not an audiophile and don't listen to thumpy thumpy bass music. I just want to be able to hear my music with the doors/top off.

[Brody]

Not an audiophile here, either. I just used some decent speakers in my heap and they sound fine. Not Wally world, but they didn't cost all that much either. Reason I asked on the speakers is that I have a couple of Polk 12" from somewhere in my garage.

[dcoop]

Been working all morning on the new crossmember, and this is where I end the day.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/44a68452.jpg

Managed to break the T fitting for the evap line, gonna have to go to home depot and figure something out.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/5554edaa.jpg

Inside of the skid was worse than I expected.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/af136599.jpg

Tomorrow I'll work on putting the tank back in. Still deciding if I want to take the time to mod the skid to gain some clearance, or just wait and replace the skid.

[dcoop]

Last Friday I went into Discount Tire and ordered 4 33x12.5 Goodyear MTR Kevlars. They were on special order, but I got lucky and they had 4 sitting at a Discount Tire in Grand Junction. Got a call this afternoon that the tires were here, so I immediately went over there. Turns out they were mistaken, only 3 tires were delivered this morning and for an unknown reason the 4th is still somewhere between Longmont and Grand Junction.

What was even worse is I could see them stacked next to the observation window, I think I had drool dripping out of my mouth. Hopefully tomorrow the 4th shows up!

[Aaron]

I remember the day I got my 33's... Good day!

[ColoJeeper]

...only topped by when you get your 35's....then 37's then.......... It never ends.

enjoy them!

[dcoop]

Finally!

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/4d92cf83.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/33dcb1f0.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/e4057cbe.jpg

Feels so good not having to worry about tires anymore. Next on the list is new windows, I hate them with a burning passion. Then I can start focussing my money on axles and suspension. I'll be doing an 8.8 and HP D30 with 4.88 gears. Since I'll be able to work on the axles without rushing I'm going to tackle gears myself. I figure if I take my time it will turn out just fine. I would love to 4 link the rear because I'm looking at the Artec 8.8 truss swap kit. That will probably be further down the road.

And as you can see in the last pic I finally got around to using the Monstaliner.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Monstaliner/7dc3afd4.jpg

[Rob]

Looking good, Dylan. Time to get it out on a trail. :steer:

[Aaron]

Nice!

[dcoop]

Thanks guys. Hopefully I can get out next weekend. I really need to fix the steering stops though so I don't chew up the new tires. The bolt head on the pass. side steering stop sheared off a while ago, I need to get a nut welded on to it so I can back it out and replace it.

[Popsgarage]

Lookin' good. Oh, to have some free time to install some of the stuff I have sittin' in the garage. Wait a minute, why am I sittin' here checkin' on posts.

[dcoop]

Well I managed to fubar the steering stop on the pass. side knuckle. I got bored this afternoon, and I had an idea that I could use two nuts and use one as a jam nut to back the bolt out. That didn't work because the bolt is to soft and it just stripped the threads. That's when I realized welding a nut to it wouldn't work because it's to soft and would just twist off. I don't even know how the hell this thing got so darn stuck in the first place. My last option was to drill it out, which didn't go to well. After about an hour I finally has something I could get a tap into, but about halfway into tapping the hole the tap broke. :bang:

Oh well. I need to make a trip to the junkyard anyway. Maybe I can find a knuckle off an cherokee or get an HPD30. I'm already planning on pulling an 8.8 out of an explorer sometime this winter and start on that, an HPD30 was already on the list. It's amazing how worn the old tires were. Since I've only ever driven the Jeep with the large tires I never really thought it lacked power, because I never knew anything else. Power sucks now with the new tires, along with brakes.

So, the plan for winter. My parents are already getting me new upper doors for my b-day, so I don't have to worry about that. 8.8 will get started. Artec Industries just came out with a kick ass swap kit; http://www.artecindustries.com/TJ-88-Swap-Kit-with-Truss_p_233.html, then I'll gear it to 4.88. Since I'll be doing the axle out of the Jeep and won't be rushed to do it I'm going to do the gears myself. If I take my time and make sure the gear pattern is perfection I'll be fine. HPD30 will follow.

Once I'm to the point where the 8.8 is ready to go under the Jeep I want to get an SYE installed. JB conversions super short and cut down XJ shaft, Savvy adjustable rear uppers, maybe lowers to. Of course this is all money permitting, so realistically I don't know how fast this will happen. This is all to build towards 35s, and I've probably got a good 3 or 4 years before these tires are done, so no rush, right? :rolleyes:

[dcoop]

Got the first part for my on board air system.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/861e41ed.jpg

Poly Performance fixed 150 PSI CO2 regulator. Sometime next week my tank should arrive, it's a nice 10lb aluminum one. Once I get that I'll have it filled then swing by Home Depot to get a polyurethane hose and some fittings and a way to strap it down in the back. Weather dependent I'll be going up to Left Hand the weekend after next. I was planning on this weekend but it took a while for them to ship out the CO2 tank.

[jesse05lj]

Looking good!

[dcoop]

Birthday present:

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/00e080f6.jpg

And UPS just dropped this off:

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/97860263.jpg

Tomorrow I'll go get it filled and get some various fittings and hose and be good to go. Total cost of 120$, tank was 80$ something and regulator 40$.

[Popsgarage]

Way cool.

[Brody]

Looking good!

[dcoop]

Aquariumplants.com. A 10lb tank is was 76$ dollars and 6$ flat rate shipping. I would def. NOT get anything but aluminum. The tanks still weighs quite a bit empty, cant imagine how heavy a steel tank would be. Probably around 15lb empty, I'll weigh it though before I go get it filled. No school today so I just rolled out of bed. :lmao:

http://www.aquariumplants.com/Aluminum_CO2_Cylinders_CO2_tanks_CO2_cannisters_p/t.htm

[dcoop]

I have to go back later this afternoon to pick the tank up. Swung by Home Depot on my way home and picked up some brass fittings, air hose, and couplers. From what I've been reading polyurethane is the best hose to use because the CO2 coming out is very cold. Rubber hoses will get hard and those plastic coil hoses will shatter. Now I just have to figure how out to secure the tank in the jeep.

[dcoop]

Duct tape would probably work. :lmao: I was thinking nylon straps. I don't plan to keep the tank in the Jeep all the time, just when I head out for the trails. I got one to many fittings at Home Depot so when I go to return it I'll see what I can find. If I can't find anything by tomorrow I'll just use some ratchet straps.

[dcoop]

Okay, so here's the set up:

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/c72b6c6c.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/ad3b04fe.jpg

Did a test and between the Currie EZ deflator and CO2 tank airing down and filling up is VERY fast. Also very glad I got the right hose because the stuff is cold. The tank itself is cold and during use the regulator and hose get very cold, because of liquid CO2 turning to gas. The only problem I'm having is with the Home Depot male air fitting. It leaks under pressure (in the actual coupler, not the threads). I tested with some other stuff we have in the garage and it seems to be the male connector specifically. I'll go back and swap it out for an industrial fitting and see if that fixes it.

[dcoop]

Went up and ran Left Hand this morning. Turned into a lot of fun and definitely had some hairy moments. We should have printed out the traildamage.com map because our book really sucked. We kinda just went wherever looked fun and got way the hell back there. We were following these small buggy things to the end of what I think is Castle Gulch. Very narrow and tight.

Here are the pics and trail damage. Video to come soon.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/ff826ab0.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/ce8b6460.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/782ecec5.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/cb73f028.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/ec8dc8ac.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/5aaed1be.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/75d64505.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/bbc647de.jpg

The tires were phenomenal. They gripped and conformed to the rocks like nothing I've ever seen. The tank also worked wonderfully, took maybe 10 min to get all 4 tires from 12 to 28 PSI.

[dcoop]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWTTPhK8IXk


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f037mstxeVc


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeeBnwHuxr8

[dcoop]

Got to test the tires in the snow this morning, and they do great! They certainly aren't an all terrain or snow tire, but still perform very well. Speaking of snow, what a mess. Trees fallen over, power out, everything is a mess. School was spotty on power, when I came home ar 12:30 I ate then had to go help knock snow off the trees.

[dcoop]

UPS dropped this off this afternoon:

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/f61bd35e.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/bef29640.jpg

Looks like another 10lb CO2 tank. Checked my debit card and there wasn't a charge for it, just that of the first CO2 tank. So I emailed the company about it, I'll see what they say. I assume they will want it back. If not I'll have a brand new 10lb Aluminum CO2 tank for 40$ to anyone who wants it. :D

Also found this hidden away on the farm I work at.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/e0aa0c81.jpg

[Popsgarage]

Sweet! That's awesome. Farm finds can be pretty cool.:thumb:

[dcoop]

I've been trying to figure out what kind of CJ it is. Judging by fender style at least a CJ 4 or earlier. It also has a front beam axle, that is, it's 2wd.

[Hypoid]

That is cool!

If you can, get some pics of the engine...and the VIN tag. :p

[dcoop]

Okay, so I got some news on my work schedule for next season. Don't mean to count all my eggs before they hatch...but... I'm looking at about 60hrs/week during summer and start again in March. Substantially more than I made last year (about twice, plus I'm hoping for a small raise). So next summer should be fun. New axles are still first on the list, HP30 up front with either 8.8 or D44 in the rear. The other big thing I'm looking at now is swapping in an AW4 from a Cherokee. The AX15 has taken a turn in recent months, 2nd gear is slowly getting worse and grinding every so often. Instead of rebuilding it I'd rather just swap in an automatic. I would also like to start working on the rear suspension, control arms, SYE, shocks. There some small things like the muffler, I'd like to get the exhaust reworked, probably going to need to replace the heater core before next winter, still need to replace the TPS, etc... So it should be a fun year and hopefully I can get quite a bit done before college. I will def. be set for 35s when the current tires wear out.

[dcoop]

Fair bit of snow last night.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/73a61d4a.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Reference/8e84de65.jpg

[Brody]

We had about 10" in our front yard/driveway this AM early, then got another 3" before noon. Finally stopped....

Sounds like you are slowly making some progress on your rig. None of that goes fast unless you have a huge shop, unlimited time, and a really deep wallet....all at the same time, of course...

[dcoop]

Okay so quick update. I'm going to be needing new shocks soon, after 8+ years of harsh, bumpy service my pro comps are giving out. They should be good enough until I can get new axles in so I can outboard. I'm going to have to do something about the hood soon as well. I don't know exactly what it is, but I think the heat is causing issues with the body filler as there are some discoloration marks where the hood gets the the hottest.

In more exciting news though I might be going and picking up an 8.8 this weekend, and am still looking for a HP D30. I was hoping for a D44 but I've been checking CL everyday for the last month and haven't found anything. Not that the 8.8 isn't a good axle, but with 33s the pumpkin is a bit large.

[Max]

I like the work you've been doing since this thread was started. The part where you cleaned up the tub, used the Chassis Saver, then Monstalined it looked really smoothed out and clean.

[dcoop]

The guy ended up wanting 250$ for the 8.8, still in the vehicle. Screw that. So my dad and I went to u-pull-n-pay in Denver and we pulled an 8.8. Got it from a 2000 Explorer, 3.73 gears, open diff. In amazing shape, no rust, bearings look new (will still replace them though), no chipping of the gears. Even the spider gears had zero chips in them, the diff is in better shape than the turdy five in the jeep now. All said and done 125$. Stripped everything off the axle at the junkyard except the rotors because those suckers were on there good. Wasn't able to get them off until I pulled the shafts. Anyway, here are the pics.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/IMG_0379.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/IMG_0380.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/IMG_0384.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/IMG_0381.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/IMG_0382.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/IMG_0383.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/IMG_0385.jpg

Had a ***** of a time getting the carrier out. Tried the rag method but that just pushes the ring gear side out. After banging it back in I got a really long piece of pipe and just pried it out. I was amazed at how much larger everything is. The pinion gear is HUGE compared to the 35. This axle is just plain beefy.Trying to decide now if I want to work on the gears first or the brackets. Will probably do gears first because my dad still needs to teach me to weld.

The plan is 4.88 gears, artec truss, and I'll replace all the brake stuff. The dust shield got all bent up so those will be replaced. I'll get a lot of the various swap parts from East Coast Gear supply, along with their master install kit, which is the most complete kit I've seen for the price. Also going with Nitro gears as they are 100% USA made, less expensive than the others, and because that's what ECGS puts in all their 8.8s and I've not seen any issues from the numerous Jeep Forum users who have bought axles for them.

Once I get the 8.8 mostly done I'll go back and pull a HP30 from an XJ, do the gears, install a JB super short SYE with Savvy aluminum upper control arms (maybe lowers too depending on money) and swap the axles in.

[Popsgarage]

When you get the 30 out look into an axle sleeve kit like the one from Off Road Evolution. Exterior trusses for the 30 can be done after the fact.

[dcoop]

When you get the 30 out look into an axle sleeve kit like the one from Off Road Evolution. Exterior trusses for the 30 can be done after the fact.

I've def. though about an internal sleeve for the 30. Like everything else though it will come down to money. Right now I'm looking at right about 1500$ -1600$ for both axles so another 160$ is doable, but we'll see. Everything always ends up costing more in the end and I haven't calculated in costs for SYE/DS/Control arms.

Ordered tools I need off Amazon; in/lb beam style torque wrench, 250 ft/lb torque wrench, dial indicator with magnetic base, digital caliper, and 4lb dead blow hammer. I'll probably also buy a bearing race and seal driver set when I go to order the gears. ECGS has a nice kit for ~40$. The only thing that has me worried about the gears is how to deal with the bearings. I guess my plan for know is to cut them off, use set up bearings where needed, and take everything to a shop and have them press on final bearings since I don't have a press.

[Popsgarage]

Order set-up bearings for the 8.8. If I get to the Dana 30 for the S-10 you can borrow the set-up bearings I buy to do mine. They're slightly over bored to slip fit over the diff and pinion. Here's the link. I have a press and you're more than welcome to use it.

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-61386-differential-tools-bearing-set-up-kits.html

[dcoop]

I'm thinking about going to Harbor Freight and getting their cheap 12 ton press. For 130$ seems like it would be worth it to make it and other jobs easier.

As far as set up bearings I planned on making my own, but I might take you up on your offer for the 30. The 8.8 is a bit simpler because all I need is a set up inner pinion bearing.

[Popsgarage]

The set up bearings are the same price as a regular set of bearings and you don't waste a perfectly good set of bearings. For the 30 you need a set for the carrier and the pinion. It is the best and really the only correct way to do it. As far as the press goes, that is about what I paid for mine from Summit Racing.

[dcoop]

Okay I get bearings of yesterday. I started with the pinion bearing because I figured if I cut to deep no loss. Well that's exactly what happened so I had to throw it in the scrap metal recycle pile. Of course the main goal was to get the pinion shim. I also go the carrier bearings off, which went much better. Only a slight knick on the non ring gear side.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-05-05-1.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-05-05-2.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-05-05-3.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-05-05-5.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-05-05-6.jpg

[Popsgarage]

I'm thinking about ordering a clamshell puller from Serious Offroad soon. Makes life a bit easier. If or when I get it I'll post a thread.

[dcoop]

Clamshell puller would be awesome. Cutting them off is a PITA.

[Popsgarage]

Agreed. Always made me nervous using a grinder anywhere near any bearing surface. Get's the job done, but it'd be nice to have the right tools for the job. Only problem is the cost.

[dcoop]

So if you ever start noticing the steering wandering on the road and the ride starts getting magically better check your tire pressure. Last night when I was putting the top and doors on I noticed the Jeep was really jiggling around and the tires were a bit bulged. Checked a tire, 15psi! Checked all of them and same 15psi so I filled them up to 27. Weird. Hoping it was some fluke thing. I know my wheels are at least 11 years old, they were on the jeep when my dad bought it in 2001. I'm going to keep an eye on it but I'm hoping the beads aren't corroded and slowly leaking.

[dcoop]

Parts (some) are here. I also bought a bearing press of CL for 90$ and got the HF seal and race driver set.

Ratech Solid Pinion Spacer (P/N 4105)

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-05-17-5.jpg

Ratech Severe Duty Shims (P/N 1134)

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-05-17-4.jpg

Ratech Pinion Yoke Holder

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-05-17-8.jpg

I changed the master install kit. I got the Ford Racing M-4210-C, 99$ shipped from street side auto. This kit includes wheel bearings and seals and should be here tomorrow. Nitro 4.88 gears from ECGS are ordered, but I have no idea when they will be here. Unfortunately I don't think they will be here until next week, which means it could be a while until I get to work on anything. Next weekend is graduation and the following weekend I'll be in Africa. I might try to do some during the week but working 10 hours a day from 6-4, I doubt I'll want to do much.

[dcoop]

Monday the gears came in. Wednesday I got off work early so I had a chance to work on it. I got the inner pinion bearing pressed on, ring gear shaved, outer race installed, and ground the old inner race for set up. I also wasted a bunch of time trying to find a 1/4" female to 3/8" male socket adapter. I also needed a regular 27mm socket (I had been using an impact socket) for the pinion nut and some 12mm bolts for the yoke holder because I didn't grab the flange bolts while at the junk yard. When I get the flange adapter I'll get the proper bolts.

Monday night I threw the carrier into the freezer, Tuesday night I threw the ring gear on, it slipped right on without having to put it in the oven. I loosely put the ring gear bolt on to keep it aligned.

Frosty carrier
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/DCoop-2012-05-22-1.jpg

The first thing I did Wednesday was torque the ring gear down with loctite and worked my way up to 70 ft/lb. The install book that came with the gears said 60 ft/lbs, but that seemed low and everywhere online was saying in the 70 range, so 70 ft/lb was middle ground. Next was the pinion gear. Obviously smaller.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/DCoop-2012-05-22-7.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/DCoop-2012-05-22-8.jpg

I sat and thought for a while trying to figure out how to press the inner bearing on. Unlike the carrier bearings the cage protruded up so trying to press flat on the bearing would mess the cage up. That's when I remembered the old bearing I had cut off, a little digging through the trash and I came up with this.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/DCoop-2012-05-23-9.jpg

Perfect.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/DCoop-2012-05-23-10.jpg

Back to the ring gear. 30 min of grinding with the Dremel resulted in this.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/DCoop-2012-05-23-11.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/DCoop-2012-05-23-13.jpg

It seemed like the cross shaft would never go in, but then after many time of grinding, checking, grinding, it just slipped in like butter. After that I wasted a good hour running around town until I found the adapter at Advance Auto Parts, of course the last place I check. I then hit a brickwall with setting up the pinion preload. Probably being up since 5:00, morning of work then afternoon of working on this damn axle and I wasn't thinking straight. I'm pretty sure I tried the same size shim stack a couple times. At about 7:00 my grandparents arrived from the airport (graduation this weekend) so I called it a day. I'll start back Sunday.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/DCoop-2012-05-24-14.jpg

[Popsgarage]

You'll get there. Relax and focus and it'll get done.

[dcoop]

I messed with the preload more this morning and it looks like 20 in/lb is about as good as I can get it. It seems to be on the high side but if I drop the shim size down just .001 (or at least what my calipers tell me) preload drops to 10 in/lb. I tried torquing the nut down to get more, but I would have had to go really high just to get to the minimum 14 in/lb. I think I'm going to leave it at 20 for now and move on. If anyone has any major objections I'll try to mess with it some more.

[dcoop]

Oh, and...

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/DCoop-2012-05-26-319.jpg

[dcoop]

Okay, getting to my first pattern went very smoothly. Only took me 4 attempts to get backlash into spec and take a pattern.


Attempt 1

Ring Gear: .273"
Non Ring: .270"

Backlash: None

Attempt 2

Ring Gear: .270"
Non Ring: .273"

Backlash: Still none

Attempt 3

Ring Gear: .267"
Non Ring: .287"

Backlash: .007", closer but spec is .011" to .016"

Attempt 4:

Ring Gear: .257"
Non Ring: .297"

Backlash: .015"

So I then took my first pattern.

Drive:


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-05-27--5.jpg

Coast:
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-05-27--6.jpg

It hard for me to tell, I think its really close (close as in close to spec) but the pinion could come out a tad. I also think I need to get some more resistance in the gears.

[Popsgarage]

Looks pretty damn close.

[Brody]

Thanks for the write and all the pictures. Nice to see this coming along. Nice job with the gears!

[glacierpaul]

Thanks for the write and all the pictures. Nice to see this coming along. Nice job with the gears!
X2! Edit: congrats on the graduation!

[dcoop]

Thanks guys.

The coast side looks perfect to me, but the drive side looks a tad close. I'm going to bring the pinion out a hair and see how it looks.

[dcoop]

Got back yesterday, Artec truss is ordered.

[dcoop]

I think the drive on this looks better.

Pinion- .029"

Backlash- .012"

Drive
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-23-173.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-23-174.jpg

Coast
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-23-172.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-23-175.jpg

Also this:
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-21-139.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-21-140.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-21-141.jpg

[dcoop]

I think I'm calling it good on the gears. I decided to move onto getting the brackets off, which I've been absolutely dreading. So I got the grinder out, found a cutting disc, got situated, and started cutting. 15 minutes in and I had accomplished basically nothing. Oh, it's also over 100 degrees out and I'm wearing jeans and a long sleeve shirt. Screw that.

I went inside and said to my dad "I want to get the oxy-acetylene out.".

"...Okay. It's been a long time since I've cut so I don't really remember. Go get the welding book out, use the internet, whatever you want and figure it out."

An hour later, after plenty of reading I went and rolled the tanks and and got going. Went pretty well, on the practice piece. I was actually able to make some really clean cuts.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-23-178.jpg

So I took a deep breath and headed over to the axle. First cut went okay. Second cut not great. On the second cut I was trying to cut where I had already started with the grinder. Because of this I was having trouble, but a little help with the grinder and a hammer, it came off.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-23-177.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-23-176.jpg

Still have some work to do cleaning it up, but it's off. I'll do the other 3 tomorrow. Not sure using the torch is that much faster since I've never used it before, but it's a hell of a lot more fun.

[dcoop]

Whew, finally finished getting the brackets off this morning. Took less than 10 min to cut them off but took a lot of grinding to smooth it out. I then loosely put the truss together and set it on the axle to see how it looked. I discovered a good friend who lives in the neighborhood has a 220v mig welder and he said I could use it any time. I'm going to get it this week so I can practice then this next weekend tack the truss on. I figured I'd rather use a mig welder than trying to mess with the stick welder.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-24-184.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-24-187.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-24-192.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-24-193.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-06-24-180.jpg

[Heather]

Oh, and... http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/DCoop-2012-05-26-319.jpg

Congratulations!!

(Nice job on the Jeep, too)

[Popsgarage]

Axle's coming along well, young man! Lookin' good!!!!!

[Brody]

Nice! Looking really good, too! Cool that you are doing this all on your own.

Don't be afraid to post if you run into an issue that you can't figure out. Lots of folks on the forum happy to share knowledge...

[dcoop]

Nice! Looking really good, too! Cool that you are doing this all on your own.

Don't be afraid to post if you run into an issue that you can't figure out. Lots of folks on the forum happy to share knowledge...

Don't think I've ran into anything yet that didn't require the right tool. :lmao: But if anyone has ideas on how to remove the wheel bearings I'm all ears. I've heard the ones on the 8.8 can be a bear and a slide hammer won't always work (not that I wan't to be buying or trying to find a slide hammer to borrow).

Also, more parts ordered, Solid diff cover ordered, some break parts ordered, freeze plug, and flange adapter.

All thats left for the 8.8 is the rotors, pads, and shoes. Then it's just the HPD30, gears, and install kit. Still not sure when I'll be picking up the HP30, but I'll probably make the final order with ECGS next week for the rest of the parts.


Almost there!

[Brody]

Decent write up here:

How To: Replacing Rear Axle Wheel Bearings - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"® (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214805)

Rental slide hammers are a good idea, especially as you won't find a day to day use for them.

[Java]

Looks great!! Congrats on graduation too! :thumb: What color are you going to paint the axle?

[dcoop]

Looks great!! Congrats on graduation too! :thumb: What color are you going to paint the axle?

Regular old black.

Main truss is tacked on, coil buckets tacked on. Parts are rolling in, not quite quick enough though. Rotors, pads, and parking brake shoes aren't going to be here until next Monday along with new 5-760 wheel joints, ball joints, and inner axle seals. I was hoping to get the 8.8 in this next weekend as I have the 4th off and can do some welding, but without brake parts that can't happen. Monday and Tuesday I'm gone to CU orientation so I need the Jeep drivable.


Anyway here are some pictures.


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-01-194.jpg


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-01-196.jpg


Here's an up close of the spring perch.


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-02-242.jpg


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-02-243.jpg


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-02-244.jpg


The larger circular plate bolts down to the perch to act as a spring retainer. You have to either weld the nut or bolt to the bottom side of the smaller circular plate. I welded the nut to the bottom so I could use different sized bolts and make it easier to make up some bumpstops.


Here's the welder, this thing has zero problems with the big stuff.
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-01-195.jpg


Soft brake lines
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-02-235.jpg


Grand Cherokee parking brake cables
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-02-236.jpg


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-02-237.jpg


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-02-238.jpg


Centric Calipers
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-02-241.jpg

[dcoop]

And Spicer adapter

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-02-240.jpg


This also arrived in the middle of me typing this up. I like that they threw in some RTV.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-02-247.jpg

[Popsgarage]

Looking good man!:thumb:

[dcoop]

Got the rest of the brackets tacked on and some final welding done. I won't burn in the control arm mounts and shock mounts until I get a chance to put it under the Jeep and double check fitment.


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-04-258.jpg


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-04-259.jpg


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-04-260.jpg


The shock mounts are suppose to be at 61* but I modified that to about 55*. This will give a little more clearance between the shocks and spring perch. Slightly better clearance too. Eventually I'll outboard to solve that problem all together.
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-04-261.jpg

[Java]

Those brackets are beefy. Good job on the axle prep, the tubes look like you had them chromed!

[dcoop]

Yesterday I went and picked up the HP30 and that afternoon I placed my final order with ECGS. Unfortunately I couldn't find one with 3.73 so I had to also order a new carrier.


Today I got as far as I could on the HP30 as I don't have the correct socket sizes for the pinion nut and ball joints. I didn't get an axle with both shafts as virtually every XJ at the junkyard has a missing long side shaft. I had to really beat the hell out of the short side to get the shaft/unit bearing off.


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-08-270.jpg


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-08-272.jpg


Here's the obligatory size difference shot, 8.8 obviously on the left and HP30 on the right.


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-08-269.jpg


I found the axle with the diff cover missing, it looked like it had been gone a while. The inside has quite a bit of dirt in it.


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-08-275.jpg


My parents will appreciate when I'm done and not taking up so much space in the garage.


http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-08-273.jpg


Tomorrow and Tuesday I'm gone for CU orientation so, but I hope to get some more welding on the 8.8 done later in the week. This weekend the 8.8 should go in and the HP30 will follow suit the following weekend.

[Popsgarage]

Your '97 runs a low pinion front D30, correct? It sounds like you've done your homework. The HPD30 runs on the drive side of the gear as opposed to the LPD30 running on the coast side of the gear. Much stronger set-up. Never could figure out why Jeep/Dana Spicer went back to the low pinion set-up. Lookin' really good there, young man. I actually enjoy watching your progress. Wish more of the younger folks I know had your attention to detail. Can't wait to get back to the computer next week to see what you've accomplished next. Keep up the good work.:thumb:

[Hypoid]

There is an easier way to do that. :eek: Leave the bolts in the unit bearing and drive them through the knuckle far enough to get a chisel between the knuckle and the bearing flange. Then, take out the bolts and use the chisel to wedge the unit bearing out.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-08-270.jpg

[dcoop]

Your '97 runs a low pinion front D30, correct? It sounds like you've done your homework. The HPD30 runs on the drive side of the gear as opposed to the LPD30 running on the coast side of the gear. Much stronger set-up. Never could figure out why Jeep/Dana Spicer went back to the low pinion set-up. Lookin' really good there, young man. I actually enjoy watching your progress. Wish more of the younger folks I know had your attention to detail. Can't wait to get back to the computer next week to see what you've accomplished next. Keep up the good work.:thumb:

Yeah, not sure what Jeep was/is thinking. They even switched back to the low pinion D30 on the newer Cherokees, the only thing I can think of is driveshaft clearance issues.


There is an easier way to do that. :eek: Leave the bolts in the unit bearing and drive them through the knuckle far enough to get a chisel between the knuckle and the bearing flange. Then, take out the bolts and use the chisel to wedge the unit bearing out.


When I got the the axle the bolts were missing and it was apparent someone had beat on it a bit before giving up. But most the the beating is from me. I had read about some of the tricks to getting the bearing off but not having the bolts I (and not having any bolts laying around that would work) my only option really was to beat it off. Not that big of a deal because I'll use my old ones. There is a good trick using a bolt between the inner C and shaft ear while turning the steering to pop the bearing out.

According to my parents a package arrived yesterday (as expected) which should be the rest of the brake parts for the 8.8 and misc. HP30 stuff. Once I get home this afternoon I'll have pics.

[xaza]

For taking mine off I seem to remember using the tool loan at Autozone for a slide hammer...but not last time...come to think of it, my brother had them off before I could get back from a parts run. Lookin good. Sorry but been a while since I read the beginning of this thread, is this your first build?

[Hypoid]

When I got the the axle the bolts were missing and it was apparent someone had beat on it a bit before giving up. But most the the beating is from me. That makes sense, I've heard Andersons stuff sits long enough to get really picked over. Even with the selection we have down here, the high break carriers are not that easy to find. I felt lucky to get the one I have. You did good getting the ABS shaft, no guessing about the U-Joint size.

Let us know if you plan to come down for some junkyardin', it might be a good day for me to go. :D

[dcoop]

Rear axle = success. Well, at least so far so good.

Friday worked on the brakes, had to modify the calipers so I could position the soft lines exactly how I wanted them. Just had to cut off the indexing tabs.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-11-277.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-11-278.jpg

Made these to hold the soft lines onto the axle.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-11-280.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-12-282.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-11-281.jpg

Don't have a pic, but for the hard brake lines I went and bought pre made lengths of brake line from Advance Auto. Already flared and with fittings, simple to bend with your thumbs.

Saturday, removed D35, good riddance.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-14-287.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-14-286.jpg

Put the 8.8 in for a test fit.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-14-293.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-14-292.jpg

Everything looked great. Clearances were great, way better than I was expecting. Only thing was we noted the shock mounts were on the wrong sides. No problem, they are only tacked on. Unfortunately though after welding everything up the shock mounts were still on the wrong sides. Problem was because the shock mounts and control arm mounts are so close I had welded up the shock mounts first to get both sides them welded up the control arm mounts. So to fix the shock mounts I had also had to cut the control arm mounts off. Took about an hour but I did get it all fixed.

Here's some of the welding

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-14-295.jpg

[dcoop]

Sunday

This should have been an easy day, throw gears in, double check everything, put axle in, button up. Of course things immediately went south. When I put the preload spacer/shims on the pinion I put the shims between the shoulder on the pinion and spacer, not on top of the spacer. When I put it in and torqued it down it messed the shims up and shot the preload up. The shoulder on the pinion isn't flat, is is slightly convex.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-16-328.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-16-329.jpg

I couldn't get the right thickness with the shims I had, but luckily I had the crush sleeve from the install kit. Waste of 15$ on the spacer kit but oh well. Anyway went to install crush sleeve, crushed it to much. Spent the next 2 hours driving around trying to find a crush sleeve, which was eventually found at a Napa out of town (up in Berthoud). Finally got home and got the gears sorted out. Backlash was still good (.010") and pattern still looked good. Torqued cap bolts down clearanced the pumpkin for the sway bar, and threw it under the Jeep.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-15-316.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-15-311.jpg

I went and rented a slide hammer from Advance Auto and at this point got the old bearings/seals removed. Went to go pound in the new ones.... uh oh they were way to small. Ran to Napa and picked up the right ones for 60$. After that I put the parking brake stuff on and put the shafts in.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-15-313.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-15-315.jpg

Rotors and calipers went on, tires went on, put jeep on its own weight, tightened everything down, filled the diff with fluid, and took it for a drive. Not very surprising there is a pretty bad driveline vibration, so an SYE is in my very near future. However I've got less than a month until college starts, at which point I'll be leaving the Jeep at home (to cheap to pay for parking) so it will pretty much sit all winter. The SYE will probably be a winter project.

The new gears are amazing. Dead silent. I would highly recommend Nitro gears and def. shoot for the low end on backlash. Totally having to change the way I drive because my shift points are completely different. First gear will wind the engine up to 3k RPM very quickly, cruising is great. There is a noticeable difference with disk brakes in the back, not so much quicker stopping, but the pedal feels firmer and more consistent. Braking is better though in reverse. :lmao:

Next the front axle.

[dcoop]

Here are some more bonus pictures.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-16-318.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-16-321.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-16-325.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-16-326.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-16-324.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-16-327.jpg

[Hypoid]

That is a pretty ambitious project, nice write up! :thumb:

[dcoop]

It's amazing how new bolts on all the control arms and shocks that are freshly tightened down can make a difference in handling. The rear feels tighter. Now I just need to ditch the stock arms for some nice Savvy arms.

[Popsgarage]

Lookin' good young man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Brody]

Nice! Glad to see that it is coming along so well!

[dcoop]

No rest for the weary. Busted out the front axle this weekend, went a lot better as I knew what I was doing!

Went and got the sockets I needed. Pinion nut is 1 1/8". Got the pinion pulled out and found this guy.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-21-334.jpg

Hmmm, not sure exactly what it was but looked like some kind of baffle. Quick internet search confirms this. For the high pinion this is a very important piece as helps keep oil in the pinion bearings. Another thing about the Dana 30 is the oil slinger that sits between the pinion head and inner bearing. Some people ditch it, however being a high pinion axle I didn't want to ditch anything. The new slinger that came with the install kit was .030" compared to the .060" of the old one, so I wasn't worried about to much shim.

Next I popped the inner seals out, pretty simple, just found a washer that was the right diameter and using the handle to my high lift I hammered them out.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-21-331.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-21-332.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-21-333.jpg

I got a total of .080" for pinion shims, that's including the slinger and baffle. The new baffle that came with my install kit was .020" (just like the old one) and the new slinger was .030", so I added .030" in shims so I could start the new gears at .080". For the carrier I didn't want to waste my time cutting the bearings off the old carrier so I just kept adding equal shims on the carrier until it was tight.

First pattern with .080" under the pinion and backlash of .008".

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-22-336.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-22-341.jpg

To far away so I added .005" and checked again.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-22-343.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-22-344.jpg

To close now. Swapped the .005" shim for a .003" shim and tried again.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Axle%20Swap/DCoop-2012-07-22-345.jpg

(Missing the drive side pic, but it looks the same, just on the drive side ;))

Perfect! Added some shims to the carrier to increase preload and pressed new bearings on. Now the most nerve-racking part, how much did backlash change with the new bearings. Luckily it only increased .001" to .009", still in spec. That's as far as I got today as when I went to button it all up I put the new pinion seal on before the bearings and thrust washer, so I need to go get a new seal. I'll get it together tomorrow.

[Popsgarage]

You go kid. Been a busy body lately. Looks good.

[dcoop]

Any ideas on bent axle shaft ears? The wheel joints should have been replaced long ago. I tried pounding them out, using the ball joint press, and finally I gave up and used the press. I got it out but bent the ear. This was on the drivers side on the inner shaft. I tried again on the spare shaft, same thing bent ear. Not as bad but when I went to put the u joint in there is no way the clips are going in.

I guess I could try to bend it back, but am thinking it will weaken the already weak ears. Plus I can guarantee I'm going to have the same problem with the other shaft and possibly the stub shafts. I'm so done with all this I'm really close to just buying upgraded shafts for 500 bucks, but that means the SYE is not going to happen any time soon. Reality is the Jeep is about to sit for 6 months because I'm leaving it at home for college.

Thoughts? It's Sunday evening, at this point I'm going to be driving one of my parent's cars to work until I get this fixed. I'm hovering over the buy now button on a new pair of Nitro chromo shafts.

[Hypoid]

Bend it back, drive it like you stole it, order new shafts anyway. No reason to not drive it to work on a warm summer day.

[dcoop]

Okay so here's the deal. I started swapping in the HP 30 this weekend. Yesterday I got the old axle out and the new one into place on the control arms. Today I got the knuckles off and ball joints replaced. That took basically all day because the regular ball joint press I rented didn't have the right adapters. Went back and picked up the "master" kit, but didn't realize until I got home it was broken. Took it back and had to go further uptown to the next Advance Auto to get theirs. Got the knuckles back on and went to change out the wheel joints. Of course that's where things started going wrong.

I decided to just replace the shafts. I already placed an order with ECGS for a pair of Nitro chromoly shafts. They aren't Superior, but last I knew Superior was months out on their shafts. Plus after reading people seem to be extremely happy with the Nitro shafts and they have a good warranty. Hopefully they'll be here by the end of the week and everything will be put back together soon. I would have just bent it back put in the joint and put it back together with the old shaft but it was to late, there I still had to put the shafts back in, get everything bolted down, put steering back on, do alignment and fill diff.

Here are the only pictures I have from this weekend. HP 30 on before I replaced the ball joints.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/DCoop-2012-08-04-380.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/DCoop-2012-08-04-381.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/DCoop-2012-08-04-382.jpg

[Popsgarage]

Where did you get your master install kit, cause mine did not come with the oil baffle or the oil slinger and bot got damaged getting them out?????????

[dcoop]

East Coast Gear Supply. They have a specific kit for the high pinion 30.

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-126965-dana-30-reverse-cjinstall-kit-master.html

[dcoop]

Well HP 30 is in and everything works great. Yesterday I went wheelin' with a Jeepforum member Mike (Unlimited04) and we ran McClellen/Argentine. No issues with all the highway driving or off road. The new gears are fantastic. In fact I can't stop/stall the Jeep in 1st and 4 lo, good sign I need a brake upgrade. Anyway here are pictures.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DCoop-2012-08-11-389.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DCoop-2012-08-11-407.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DCoop-2012-08-11-416.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DCoop-2012-08-11-414.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DCoop-2012-08-11-420.jpg

This is one of the mines, it was pretty cool because you could go in the building and a lot of the old machinery was still there.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DCoop-2012-08-11-434.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DCoop-2012-08-11-441.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DCoop-2012-08-11-444.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DCoop-2012-08-11-447.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DCoop-2012-08-11-452.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DCoop-2012-08-11-456.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DCoop-2012-08-11-457.jpg

[dcoop]

There was also this... looked pretty recent. These are Mike's pictures.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DSC_0087_2.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DSC_0105_2.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DSC_0110_2.jpg

Top arrow is where we're pretty sure it started rolling (there was a pretty large debris field and it was obvious), bottom is where it rested.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Wheelin/DSC_0146_2.jpg

[Max]

Hey Dlyan I'm pretty sure I saw you in Boulder the other day. You need to swap that jeepforum sticker for a FR4x4 one so we know!

[dcoop]

Hey Dlyan I'm pretty sure I saw you in Boulder the other day. You need to swap that jeepforum sticker for a FR4x4 one so we know!

If I had one I would!

[dcoop]

Well over 500 miles on the axles since install, still going strong! Even drove down to Colorado Springs the other week. Really need to change the oil though.

Also, according to my dad, who drove the Jeep to work a couple times, it can do burnouts no problem.

[Popsgarage]

If you need a sticker, Dylan, I've got a couple extra!

[Chris]

If I had one I would!

I have a few left too though I think Jon has more thn me now.

[Popsgarage]

Yes, yes I do.

[dcoop]

Long semester!

I'll make sure to get a sticker this next summer! In case anyone is wondering, priority number 1 is SYE to fix the vibes. Here's the plan for this summer:



JB Conversions Super Short SYE (http://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np231j_short_sye.php)
Drive Shaft (not sure if I want to get a front CV shaft cut down or go with a pre built like Tatton)
Savvy Upper/Lower rear control arms ( http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product.sc?productId=102&categoryId=2 & http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product.sc?productId=125&categoryId=2)
Savvy Modular Under Armor, only the t-case skid and crossmember for now (http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product.sc?productId=150&categoryId=16)
New rear track bar (http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product.sc?productId=25&categoryId=2)


Of course if money permits I've got more.

[dcoop]

One change. I'll be going with Metalcloak's Duroflex arms. They have been getting fantastic reviews, on par with JJs but better ride quality.

My throttle position sensor also decided to take a dump on me. I came home this weekend and yesterday when I started the Jeep (it had been sitting in the school parking lot for 2 week) it sputtered to life and was running like crap. Thank goodness for my scan gauge because the Jeep pretty quickly tripped the CEL. Checked the code and it was for TPS. Switched one of the gauges to TPS and sure enough it was randomly jumping all over the place. Made it home (wasn't a particularly fun drive) and today I replaced the sensor. Purrs like a kitten again!

[dcoop]

Changed the gear oil in both axles this morning! The gears look GREAT! Rear oil definitely need to be changed, it had turned into a nice metallic paste, and the front was a bit metallic. I think the obvious answer to that is the rear is the main drive axle where the front just spins not under load. I think I can call the gear install a 100% success.

[dcoop]

Sure has been a long time! Time definitely got away from with school and all, so my account was deactivated. Thought I'd share my new toy I get to play with.

37169

[Hypoid]

Well, there goes the budget!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

[xaza]

very sweet! Welcome back

[dcoop]

New clutch ordered :mad:

It's been making some terrible noises over the last month or so. With school about to start again I'll be commuting and the last thing I want is the clutch to go out. Annoyed because the current clutch is only 4 years old. Not sure if it's the pilot bearing or TO bearing, but a new Luk clutch kit was only $99 so I'll just replace the whole damn thing again.

Oh and I did order a new muffler. Dynomax Super Turbo, which I hear is pretty quiet and doesn't drone.

[dcoop]

Realized I never did update everything that happened last year.


Long semester!

I'll make sure to get a sticker this next summer! In case anyone is wondering, priority number 1 is SYE to fix the vibes. Here's the plan for this summer:



JB Conversions Super Short SYE (http://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np231j_short_sye.php)
Drive Shaft (not sure if I want to get a front CV shaft cut down or go with a pre built like Tatton)
Savvy Upper/Lower rear control arms ( http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product.sc?productId=102&categoryId=2 & http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product.sc?productId=125&categoryId=2)
Savvy Modular Under Armor, only the t-case skid and crossmember for now (http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product.sc?productId=150&categoryId=16)
New rear track bar (http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product.sc?productId=25&categoryId=2)


Of course if money permits I've got more.

Under armor didn't happen, really was wishful thinking. Also don't know why I wanted a new rear track bar, with the Artec truss and the extra set of holes the stock length track bar is perfect and has great clearance. I did replace the front track bar, but more on that later.

First thing was new control arms. Ended up replacing all of them and went with the Metalcloak arms, which are awesome!

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Suspension/IMG_0047_zps213c682f.jpg (http://s969.photobucket.com/user/freeskier93/media/Suspension/IMG_0047_zps213c682f.jpg.html)

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Suspension/IMG_0076_zps147d58d2.jpg (http://s969.photobucket.com/user/freeskier93/media/Suspension/IMG_0076_zps147d58d2.jpg.html)

At the time the TJ arms were brand new and there were some kinks, which I made Metalcloak aware of. As a thank you for the feedback and to make up for the issues they sent me a new front track bar. I needed one because the bushing on the factory one was toast. The Metalcloack track bar has bar none the best clearances and is extremely stout.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Suspension/IMG_0239_zps0aeae8ac.jpg (http://s969.photobucket.com/user/freeskier93/media/Suspension/IMG_0239_zps0aeae8ac.jpg.html)

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Suspension/IMG_0240_zps4fa25dc6.jpg (http://s969.photobucket.com/user/freeskier93/media/Suspension/IMG_0240_zps4fa25dc6.jpg.html)

In August JB Conversions finally got the super short back in stock so I got that ordered and installed. Also did a full rebuild on the transfer case.


http://s969.photobucket.com/user/freeskier93/slideshow/NP231

I also went with Adams for the driveshaft, who I highly recommend.

[glacierpaul]

Sweet! Had to do clutches in 2 of my Jeeps too! That pic of the rolled vehicle should be a Stay The Trail poster!

[dcoop]

Got the clutch replaced this weekend and completely redid the exhaust. As I suspected the throw out bearing was bad, it was really loose and likely to detonate soon. What I wasn't expecting was a cracked friction disk!

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Clutch%20Install/IMG_0256_zpse7faf329.jpg (http://s969.photobucket.com/user/freeskier93/media/Clutch%20Install/IMG_0256_zpse7faf329.jpg.html)

New Luk is on the left and the old Sachs is on the right.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Clutch%20Install/IMG_0255_zps7ea41cc6.jpg (http://s969.photobucket.com/user/freeskier93/media/Clutch%20Install/IMG_0255_zps7ea41cc6.jpg.html)

Sure was empty under there...

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Clutch%20Install/IMG_0254_zpsffcd6eda.jpg (http://s969.photobucket.com/user/freeskier93/media/Clutch%20Install/IMG_0254_zpsffcd6eda.jpg.html)

I removed the transfer case this time which made things a lot easier. That transmission hardly weighs anything.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Clutch%20Install/IMG_0253_zps2f42b331.jpg (http://s969.photobucket.com/user/freeskier93/media/Clutch%20Install/IMG_0253_zps2f42b331.jpg.html)

The exhaust is still technically a work in progress. I got everything welded to the muffler but messed up on the tailpipe (cut it to short). Right now it's turned down after the muffler, which I really don't like. The muffler is loud under 1500 RPM and the reverb with the turndown turns the whole tub into a subwoofer. Above 1500 RPM though its really quiet. I got some quotes and sometime this week I'll take the Jeep in to have a custom tailpipe bent. Not much more expensive then an OEM pipe plus I need the custom bends to properly clear the axle.

[dcoop]

Dropped the Jeep off at an exhaust shop to get the tailpipe done and it only cost me $72! It was bent perfectly and hugs the tub nice and tight to give the axle some room. So much quieter now and no drone.

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Misc%20Jeep/IMG_0258_zpsf8f38236.jpg (http://s969.photobucket.com/user/freeskier93/media/Misc%20Jeep/IMG_0258_zpsf8f38236.jpg.html)

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae176/freeskier93/Misc%20Jeep/IMG_0257_zps2e20c892.jpg (http://s969.photobucket.com/user/freeskier93/media/Misc%20Jeep/IMG_0257_zps2e20c892.jpg.html)

And yes I zipped tied the e-brake line to the control arm so it's not touching the exhaust. It actually needs to go under the arm but I'll take care of that this weekend.