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Michael4rnr
August 21st, 2011, 10:53 PM
My transmission was slipping today and was shifting really harden my drive back from keystone today. The slipping is when I'm going up hill and the RPMs are running high and staying at a constant rev but but the trans isnt grabbing and not accelerrating. I checked the transmission fluid and it's fine. Later this afternoon I was moving the car in my driveway and the transmission would barely grab and just spun in first gear. Does anyone what would be wrong with the transmission?

Haku
August 22nd, 2011, 02:00 AM
Sounds like you need a new clutch. All of those symptoms points towards that and not anything wrong inside the transmission.

Its not too hard or expensive if you get it at the right place. Definitely replace both the clutch disc and pressure plate, and take the flywheel in to be resurfaced (many Carquest stores can do it for you). Probably want a new throwout bearing too. Its kind of a pain to seperate the tranny and engine to get at the clutch, but other then that its pretty straightforward and something a gung ho shade tree mechanic can do. Otherwise, I'm sure there are several people who would probably do it for you for a decent price on here. I'm sure another stock clutch kit would be fine for you, but if you want something just a bit more performing then Marlin Crawler is a great place to go with. They sell a kit that comes with everything you need to replace the clutch minus the flywheel for $180... http://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/heavy-duty/heavy-duty-clutch-kit-1200-lb

Geno
August 22nd, 2011, 01:42 PM
If it is a manual transmission Dont foget the pilot bearing in the rear of the crankshaft, most good clutch kits include the bearing in the kit. You said you checked the transfluid. So, is this truck an automatic? If it is a auto, sounds like the 1st/2nd band is slipping on the main drum. Does 2nd and 3rd and Rev work? put shifter in 2nd gear see if it moves foward correctly. There is some linkage adjustment on trans that might make first gear not completly engage, but in drive (D) 1st should always engage once the torque converter spins up, the truck should move, if there is no check engine light "ON" on the dash, ( cpu controlled trans in your truck) you will probally have to go to a shop to have it checked out by them.

Michael4rnr
August 22nd, 2011, 01:58 PM
It's an automatic and the check engine light is on but I had the code checked out and it is the mass air flow sensor. I will try what you said and I'm going to take it to to a Toyota specialist to get it looked at.

Newb Tourist
August 22nd, 2011, 07:15 PM
Hey if you are not already there you should set up an id at http://www.toyota-4runner.org/ :) Bring that bad boy to Idaho Springs and i will help you out w/ the MAF, probably just needs cleaning, and throttle body as well. Can't help you w/ the tranny but I can say if something was wrong w/ the fluid you should develop a "pink milkshake" in the overflow reservoir. Plenty of posts on this over there! Hey just out of curiosity could you reset the computer (disconnect neg lead on battery for 10 mins) and tell me exactly how long before the CEL comes back on? This is a very common problem for our runners...

Brody
August 22nd, 2011, 07:26 PM
MAF and throttle body cleaning are big for Yotas....

What color is the trans fluid? Does it smell burnt at all? What Geno said about the tranny....Feel good that you can at least check the damn tranny fluid. On the newer ones you can't.

Newb Tourist
August 22nd, 2011, 07:46 PM
Oh I forgot: I just ordered mine on Amazon; B&M trans cooler, many tutorials at the aforementioned site, and I think I'll drop my pan as well. The one I ordered has a cold return so it won't over cool it in the winter :) just when it needs it. Fight the urge to get the temp gauge, Scan Gauge ll is a better investment. Don't buy the remote filter assembly either.

Michael4rnr
August 22nd, 2011, 08:47 PM
When I reset the CEL it turns on in about an hour or so once the engine gets warm and when I get into the higher RPMs. I checked the trany fluid and it was alittle low and I checked the trany fluid and it was red and smelled clean. My dad talked to a Toyota mechanic and he said this clutch part of my trany could have gone bad and that a new trany or a used one would be better then rebuild. I'm going to see if MAF sensor fixes the problem before I take it to the Colorado Toyota Specilist in Conifer.

Brody
August 23rd, 2011, 08:16 AM
My dad talked to a Toyota mechanic and he said this clutch part of my trany could have gone bad and that a new trany or a used one would be better then rebuild. I'm going to see if MAF sensor fixes the problem before I take it to the Colorado Toyota Specilist in Conifer.

Your MAF sensor has nothing to do with the transmission, but if it is dirty, may very well be the cause of the check engine light.If you go down to CTS, see if they still have an 88 Yota pick up with a flat bed on it. That is an old truck of mine that I sold them years and years ago. They were using it as a parts truck for years.

Rebuilding an auto is usually a pricy proposition and a quality rebuilt one is going to be a better bet. It is also kind of hit or miss on a used transmission and about all you can do with that is to get it from place that warranties them.

Call Steve Brownell at:
Central Foreign Auto Parts
3403 Brighton Boulevard
Denver, CO 80216
(800) 869-9025

Tell him that Peter Brody suggested that you call. They may very well have a used tranny down there for your rig. They handle a lot of newer used Toyota parts and Steve is one of the good guys.

EldoradoFJ60
August 23rd, 2011, 08:32 AM
It's an automatic and the check engine light is on but I had the code checked out and it is the mass air flow sensor. I will try what you said and I'm going to take it to to a Toyota specialist to get it looked at.

I had the same issue with my 1999 Tacoma. Shares the 5VZFE with the 4Runner.

Are you running a K&N air filter? That was what screwed up my MAF sensor. It was a real PITA. I have seen at NAPA MAF sensor cleaner, not sure if it would work. I picked up a new MAF for under $100 plus core charge. Swapped it out and the problem was gone. It's a 5 minute one :wrench: job. No reason to pay a dealer for the work.

Brody
August 23rd, 2011, 08:41 AM
Regular MAF cleaner from NAPA or any auto parts place will work just fine. It is, like Bruce said, a 5 minute job. A dealer will charge you $100 to do the same thing and that doesn't include cleaning the TB or IAC. A dealer will also charge you $100 for resetting the check engine light, which is also a 5 minute job. That is pretty standard for most dealers and is based off of their time/labor sheets.

Also what Bruce said on the K&N or oiled after market air filters. You over oil them, the wires in the MAF that read the air/temp/pressure get crudded up and you start getting erroneous messages sent to the ECM, hence the check engine light.

I wish I could get paid $1200 an hour for doing really dumbshit stuff like this, but, then again, I don't like ******* my customer's over.

Michael4rnr
August 23rd, 2011, 05:35 PM
I have the stock air filter and i bought some MAf cleaner and im going to do that tonight. Im probly going to be trailering it up the CTS this week if the trouble shooting that i am going to do doesnt work. Ill have CTS find out whats wrong if its simiple or needs to be replaced and if i need it replaced ill call Central Forigen Auto Parts to see if they have a trany that will work. And thanks for the information.

Newb Tourist
August 23rd, 2011, 07:19 PM
Yeah definitely try cleaning the MAF before replacing it, VERY easy job and that sensor is expensive! You may even want to consider replacing the O2 sensors before this one; tons of info on this at that other site. I clean mine once a year, code or no code, and throttle body as well. Avoid fancy air filters, like the ones you clean and relubricate, that oil is what causes the most MAF problems.

Michael4rnr
August 23rd, 2011, 10:22 PM
Thanks for the advice and the cleaning was very fast and easy. I still have to take it to a shop because the car still isn't working like it should. I'm going to take it to CTS and have them go through it and see what's wrong with it. Hopefully it's something easy.