Apple eating zombie-mobile

[trailfiend]

I'm guessin' I'm going to be doing enough/have done enough to warrant bragging rights, or more accurately, the desire for feedback :)

I got this 2000 XJ with 124k about 2 months back, balding and cupped tires, blown front speakers/tweeters (still blown) but otherwise, it was fully stock. That needed to change. Before even getting the Jeep I had ooh'd and aw'd all over the interwebs at accessories and things that can be done to these lovelies, all the awesome bumpers, sliders, lights, winches... and of course, lifts. So many options, omg. Trying to find a quality lift or offroad bumper for my '05 Ranger 2wd was either a $600 fabtech lift, or $3k Superlift or something... yeah no. Got stuck a bunch in the snow and couldn't do piddly offroad with that truck so it had to go.

The morning after I bought it, I immediately went to 4 wheel parts for some 245/75r16 Goodyear Duratracs, a hi-lift, and a 16" steelie for a full size spare (had to get rid of the rinky-dinky donut!).

My first home-brew mod (if you even wanna call it that) was new Sylvania 55w over 35w headlights, I can sort of see better, but I've got plans for more. And also while doing that, took the time to pull off the grill and headlight bezels, sanded 'em down and gave them a nice couple of coats with Rustoleum Bedliner (wouldn't trust it for a truck bed, but for trim paint, it rocks!)

Just after painting the grill, and obviously after the tires :D
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZQyicgxaB3A/Tqtr3vIROlI/AAAAAAAAXCU/0_mnc6qpdaE/s640/DSC_0263.jpg

About a month after I got it, my rear brakes went out going down Berthoud into Winter Park. Awesome, $550 repair bill for a whole new brake system on the back end.

At some point, I decided to pull off the air dam and trim up the bumper pieces a bit, I knew I'd hit those parts on rocks anyway, and I wanted the bumper to NOT be the same color as the rest of the Jeep. It may be just me, but I didn't really like everything being the same color on this, and I think the black/dark blue is a pretty rad combo.

Bedlined bumper, anyone?
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JIB_CfOBFRo/Tqtr4MYkQuI/AAAAAAAAXCY/rGWFAZpxmeM/s640/IMGP1465.JPG

With these wicked, and fairly larger tires (and saggin' leaf springs) I had some significant fender rubbing pretty much any time I'd compress the suspension, as well as some rubbing on the LCA's. Put some fat washers behind the steering stops for the LCA issue for the time being, and started contemplating trimming my fenders, I've liked the looks of XJ's with trimmed fenders but hadn't really put much thought into it. So I actually did put some thought into it, looked at tons of pictures and decided to go for it. At first I just trimmed the back end to get the rubbing issue solved, and I wanted to figure out a better looking way to fill the gap in the front fenders other than the popular method of using a pool noodle.

I decided to use some 2" thick closed cell insulating foam from Home Depot, some spray foam, and a can of undercoating spray. Trimmed up the front end, and cut the pink foam (painted the back side so I don't see pink) to size, stuffed it into the wells and secured it with spray foam. Followed by a few coats of undercoating spray, one or two with some truck bed liner (which is also what I sprayed the front fenders with) and some satin black enamel. Probably more coats of more stuff than needed, but who cares, it looks clean, keeps the hinges dry, and more importantly to me: it's not a big pocket for air to catch in.

I also figured out that I can use my hi-lift from my bumpers, and more importantly: I discovered how the thing worked.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9zL9uIY5PXU/Tqtr5BvYt4I/AAAAAAAAXCg/ckOXUt9GLOE/s640/IMGP1747.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7wpOPBwbFgg/Tqtr5xWpRwI/AAAAAAAAXCk/kQ4K7JHQNQI/s640/IMGP1746.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KRGj6VMmCoM/Tqtr4mtmQRI/AAAAAAAAXCc/ihNXiXHrJkk/s640/IMGP1749.JPG

Just before I did the front fenders, what was a "minor" stalling issue, turned into a big stalling issue, so off to the mechanic I went to find that it was what everyone thought it was: the CPS, as well as a bad battery, bad plugs, and I needed a fresh alignment after I had installed my Rusty's HD tie rod that I had painted bright yellow (I ended up painting it like 5 times because each time I would touch it too soon and it would get messed up).

As it sits now, trimmed fenders and bumpers, tie rod, removed my roof rack, and added a handful of stickers :D
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uc4PCeDb94I/Tqtr6U5KukI/AAAAAAAAXCo/EQz7g_KOsaI/s640/IMGP1766.JPG

Future plans include, but are not limited to:


BPI front bumper (possibly winch, going to see if they can do a tucked-in version for me)
tire carrier, detours, full bumper, not sure yet
weld-in rocker replacements/sliders, like EricsXJ, I like the air tank idea too. And shortened doors! :D
fog lights & 100w PIAA's, possibly a home-brew delta-style light bar and some better reverse lighting
possibly a custom roof rack, olympic top hat style, but not $500
2" OME lift, I hope I'll be able to install this myself, with help of course.
QUICK DISCONNECTS!
eventually fix/upgrade my speakers, tried today, but I'm clueless with how to go about that.
OX lockers front and rear
CB radio
Hella headlight upgrade, with IPF fatboy bulbs and wiring upgrade
Airaid filter
new control arms
adjustable track-bar
steering box brace
front end skid probably
on board air, will probably wait until I do the weld-in rockers so I can make one of them an air tank
block heater. because I can.


What I have in the works/on the way:

Detours Class 3 Recovery for the hitch en route, should be nice, and allow recovery possibilities without needing to remove my Thule bike rack
organization box/system for the rear cargo area, including 2 side boxes around the wheel wells, a covered area for my tire and a compartment for tools/parts/whatever else might fit in it.
strip down and remove the rust spots on my roof, coat with Herculiner, let cure thoroughly, paint everything from the gutters up with some gloss white enamel with the overall goal to resist denting from hail, deaden sound in general, and gloss white to keep heat down in the summer because this puppy is parked outside 24/7. (all I need, really, is probably a quart of Herc a quart of paint, and a can of spray for the tight areas).


I just got laid off from my seasonal job as a trail builder for Jeffco, so until I find a new job (or find my tax info to file for unemployment) money is tight and time is plentiful. I wish I knew how to weld, because I would do the rocker project now. I'd really like to use this down time to get the rockers welded in, doors trimmed, and roof painted, but I'm not sure how I'm going to go about the welding thing, and everything else costs money I don't have.

Until next time... (which won't be long, I've got a quick bit on tonight's activities coming).

[Beefy]

Very nice! Looks awesome already! I'm a big fan of the XJs. I've had quite a few cars since I started driving and my '96 XJ was one of my favorites.

[trailfiend]

Tonight, I actually decided to install my FM overrider that I bought like 2 months before buying the Jeep. I had installed this (http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-FM-MOD02-Universal-Modulator-Satellite/dp/B001QBG614/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_1) in my Ranger (because that was the only option I found at the time) and, frankly, loved it. It worked better and was a lot cleaner than the cigarette-lighter transmitters, and allows the strongest signal be transmitted to the radio. That was dandy and all, but it was simple and didn't offer any kind of gain adjustment (so as usual with headphone-jack transmitters, your iPod/mp3 needs to be at approx. 80-85% volume, making it quieter than other channels).

So I did a little more hunting this time, and for $12 more, you can get this lovely piece of equipment (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IY598O) which not only offers gain, but also includes a cleaner mounting switch and (I just love it) a factory-looking audio input, which I imagine can be bought, but it's dandy.

Best of all, if you use iPod's, you have two options: the 3.5mm factory-mount audio jack, or an iPod dock, allowing you to charge as well as play your music (even better sound quality, because you have no need to lower your volume).

I decided I wanted to be able to have both options, because not all of my friends have iPod's for their mp3 players, and I often let them DJ, sometimes I might want to use my phone or while hanging out, plug my laptop in and watch a movie, or hook up a 2-way jack into the iPod and run one to the stereo, and one to an external PA speaker that I don't yet have. I concluded that I would use 2 single-male-to-dual-female RCA Y-splitters at the unit, labeling each with tape, so that I can plug in both the iPod dock bit and the 3.5mm bit, and BAM! Unlimited options........

It's kind of hard to tell what's going on here, but basically the unit itself is the little silver box kind of centered in the frame, with the 2 RCA splitters coming out of it, zip-tied to the antenna cable running through there, and both the iPod cable setup and 3.5 setup are plugged into the Y-splitters, the 3.5 cord is 6' long, so there was a LOT extra, but I only had like 8" of distance to cover, so I wound all that extra up and zip-tied it up into a little empty space there on the left section of the frame. This picture was taken with the glove compartment removed looking up. there's the perfect-sized blank space under the airbag stuff, and above whatever that plastic stuff is.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_rI5ByhjP1g/Tqt3syPPlZI/AAAAAAAAXCs/c2I4UjHFg2I/s640/IMGP1771.JPG

For the power, I tapped into the ignition-powered cigarette lighter, so that I never need to fret about forgetting to turn it off (I did that a lot in the Ranger), and then I ran the power/switch/antenna cables through the small gap behind the dash to the radio.

The install out really clean, despite the fact that when I went to test the switch, I had hit the rear wiper switch, and didn't realize it, so I was turning the on/off switch to on at the EXACT time that the wiper would move.

That happened, so I paused. Flipped the switch again. Rear wiper moved, again.

*Alex confused*

I looked at the wiring, there's NO WAY I accidentally tapped into the wiper's cables. Checked the switch and ohhhhhhhhhh. Moment of idiocy.

All you can see:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-026-hMu0xfM/Tqt3tc2w8KI/AAAAAAAAXCw/IkS5xK4wUsE/s640/IMGP1773.JPG

I'm really happy with this, the thickness of the iPod dock cable is almost twice what the USB cords are, and all the rest of the cables are pretty beef, there are 2 inline fuses for the system, one for the iPod, and one for the unit itself from the power.




Also, to somewhat explain why I titled this thread as I did:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QzKXGPthxqE/Tqt3t2sruYI/AAAAAAAAXC0/ErDnL8mKfZQ/s640/IMGP1780.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Yj5_8jucwsU/Tqt3uTlnAAI/AAAAAAAAXC4/bfCzfz4GvsM/s640/IMGP1782.JPG

That, and I also completely lack the verbal creativity for subject lines and titles. :D

Peace out, yo.

[trailfiend]

Very nice! Looks awesome already! I'm a big fan of the XJs. I've had quite a few cars since I started driving and my '96 XJ was one of my favorites.

Thanks, señor Beefy! I'm really happy with it so far and look forward to many more years of play time. I don't see myself getting rid of it, but retiring it from DD to full time trail rig (with rear coil conversion ;))

[EldoradoFJ60]

Just a note. I assume the foam you used was "Great Stuff" expanding foam? That stuff will hold moisture and degrade over time. I'd get that out of there and replace it with something suitable for use with sheet metal. Otherwise your looking at inviting rust to your fenders.

[Brody]

Looking really nice!

Yeah, what Bruce said on the Great Stuff, but that nasty crap has been doing the same job on my heap in the same place for going on 7 years, so I am not too concerned....

[trailfiend]

Yeah, Bruce, that's great stuff, the window and door version. I was hoping it would be somewhat watertight but it didn't occur to me to research it any further. And here I thought I was so brilliant finding a way to fill the gap ;) I did just go on their website and discover that they make a pond & stone foam (which I've never ever seen at HD) and is said to be watertight. Perhaps I'll work on getting a can of that and just rip out the other. The pond foam is black too, less need to paint it!

I did also go over all the foam with about 4 coats of undercoating, and 3-4 more of paint, so my hope is that it's pretty well sealed.

[Popsgarage]

Lookin' good, man!:thumb:

[Chris]

I also used Great Stuff to fill a wheelwell void after trimming the fenders of my FJ62. I think thst as long as the surfaces are well sealed/painted and then sealing it after installing the moisture issue is moot. Of course I'll never know since my old truck is now in Iowa and probably rusting away anyway!

:lmao:

[trailfiend]

We'll see how it holds, I feel like I covered it with enough aerosol toxic goodness to keep it pretty water tight. If I ever have an issue with it, I'll just cut out the Great Stuff and redo it with the pond/rock version.

[trailfiend]

While the bumper build is coming along beautifully, I hope to get materials tomorrow or Friday (and change my major while I'm in the area), I got a quote of $75 to get it powdercoated by Colorado Powder Coating ($20 sandblasting+$55 pow). I figure if I'm going to do this, I'm going to do it right! Spray paint/spray on rusty bedliner is the "cheap" method, powder coat will look waaay better, and last longer, and if I sprayed myself I figure I'd drop the $20 to blast it to get the corners, likely $20 in etching primer and a few cans of paint, at that point I'm only $35 from a powder coat job... Not to mention they'll already have it for blasting :)

Stoked.

On a side note, I figured out how and where I am going to mount my aux. reverse lights and front low-profile light bar (imma hide it in the grille!) It should come out really clean looking and throw some good solid light! I've got a Blue Sea fuse box on the way that I'm going to set up for all the new goodies, I've figured out how I want my switch panel to look (simple, durable metal toggles w/ indicator lights wired to each of them and mounted above) I see some drill press time in my future. I'm not yet sure where to put it, I'm crossed between below my air/vent controls in front of the shifter, and between the visors above the mirror...not sure yet how I would put it there.

I've also got some Hella H4 upgrades on the way! I'm excited to see how they improve over the Sylvania sealed units I've got, plans are to see how they look and maybe eventually throw some Fatboys in there with conservative aiming, but if the pattern is as good as it's rumored, that may not be necessary or continue to be a desire.

[trailfiend]

New toys courtesy of the package delivery fairies!

Hella H4 upgrades, Blue Sea fuse panel, and an ANL fuse holder (150a fuse en route) for the hot line into the panel.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0AjVU-W_D9Y/TryA65ytyRI/AAAAAAAAXFI/zmGDveT-2Xc/s640/DSC_0020.jpg

[mattzj98]

Nice! cant wait to see those on! love Hellas

[trailfiend]

I'll get some pictures to compare the Sylvania "upgrades" I put in compared to these too, because for the life of me I couldn't find any online. Figure I'll take a couple comparisons at the same settings so whoever wants to see a comparison can get a good idea. I'm stoked though, I'm scared when I'm on the highway at night and leave the areas without street lamps... It's like the sun went down all of a sudden! hahaha

[Brody]

Here are some:

http://www.stylintrucks.com/articles/0909_headlightbulbcomparison.aspx


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kVvsAwTbRo


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IiIHlWiEB_g&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaElhqQx8LQ&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMzYn5I4L50&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F84F7jYhgRo&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BreH5CtUWrc&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s57EK0DGAZA&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3rlLHmGzBA


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvnVEywHvAM&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIKfQ8vU424&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIfUm19X5KA


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvnVEywHvAM&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F84F7jYhgRo&feature=related

Might not be exactly what you were looking for, but the bottom line is that you won't feel bad getting the Hellas.

[trailfiend]

Cool! I never thought to look at videos, I was just hunting around for pictures. Thanks!!

[Brody]

I Googled a couple of different things " Hella vs Sylvania", "Hella comparison Tests" , "Hella comparison pictures" and finally "Hella comparison videos". Took a bit to find what actually brought up results. What I really expected to find, and didn't, was Hella's own pictures and videos showing off their products. I couldn't even find something like that on their site. Go figure..

[trailfiend]

Hella's website is pretty strange, they don't seem to want to show off any of their products very logically...at all.

I built a box. It just took me a really long time to get around to putting it in place...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uM_i8CWGW-A/TsSVypIPweI/AAAAAAAAXF4/2lwaVSgM5Yc/s640/DSC_0038.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J_MGRaClVI4/TsSVzwjRRRI/AAAAAAAAXGA/jd8WjfW5Cq0/s640/DSC_0048.jpg

Threw on some more stickers... Design courtesy of my brother, custom printing courtesy of the company that does Ihatestickers.com
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O0f0zN-Sej8/TsSV0XzGdRI/AAAAAAAAXGE/r8h5h16UCs8/s640/DSC_0049.jpg

(hard to tell, but the third says inspire....) Unite Engage Inspire.

If you ever see a billboard around town with those stenciled on it...well. You know.

And for you Matt:

Hella H4 upgrade, probably need some tweaking/adjustment, but I'll work on that when I can find a good spot to aim 'em. I wasn't able to get a comparison picture to the Sylvania Silverstar's, but basically to describe it: there was 20ft in front of the lights on the ground where there was nothing. Then a bit of a "bar" of light, and less than desirable spread overall, the high beam pattern was awesome though.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DCN8em-nFNw/TsSV0q-R9DI/AAAAAAAAXGI/MIMlOKSBw8s/s640/DSC_0053.jpg

With these, however, the spread is phenomenal! High beam, low beam, doesn't matter, you don't need fogs to see immediately in front of you (maybe in fog, though). I'm not really thrilled with the brightness of the bulbs however, so I ordered some PIAA Xtra Intense white H4's that got here today, I'll put them in tomorrow and get a picture after that. If anyone out there cares, this photo was shot on my D90: 1/6s, f/2.8, 16mm focal length, 1000 ISO, RAW file, edited in Lightroom as such: fill light +5, blacks +2, brightness +5, and contrast 0'd. (all else zeroed).

Bumper update: I've got 3/4" steel for my d-ring brackets, and tomorrow morning I'll be going to Hinton Steel to get a chunk of 3/16". I had hoped to get some at Altitude, but they had none in the scrap area, and new for the same size as Hinton was $190! :whatAreYouThinking: I found a 3'x4' piece in the scrap pile last time I was there and it would have run be just under $100 for the scrap! So...Hinton it is!!

[EldoradoFJ60]

I'm running the Hella H4 upgrades as well. Just stock bulbs for now. They have a really nice pattern to them.

[MelloYello]

Look'in Good!

[Popsgarage]

Well organized for sure. Looks really good.:thumb:

[trailfiend]

erg. Computer is acting up and I accidentally exited out of the window where I had a reply all organized out. Damn.

Thanks guys! I appreciate it! I'm really happy I finally put the box in, it's so much more organized and just... works better. Not to mention! I found out that my snow brush sits PERFECTLY on the hi-lift bolts, it's like the absolutely perfect storage spot!

A note on the PIAA H4 Intense White bulbs... I don't know if I would say they're "intense", but they are a nice clean white light output, and the whole 60/55w = 135/125w thing is BS. They're no brighter than Hella's H4. That said, I'm very happy with the appearance of the light, it's the "color" I had hoped for, but I was also hoping the whole 135/125w deal would *actually* seem brighter than the other bulbs. They may be a tad, but not really noticeable.

For anyone who cares, here's a side-by-side comparison of the bulbs.

Hella H4/E-code lamp conversion w/ Hella H4 bulbs
Image: Nikon D90, ISO 1000, 1/6 sec, f/2.8 16mm. WB: 2850, +5 fill, +2 blacks, +5 brightness, +100 clarity, 0'd everything else.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DCN8em-nFNw/TsSV0q-R9DI/AAAAAAAAXGI/MIMlOKSBw8s/s640/DSC_0053.jpg

Hella E-code lamps w/ PIAA Intense White 60/55w = 135/125w 4100k bulbs
Image: Nikon D90, ISO 1000, 1/6 sec, f/2.8 11mm cropped. WB: 2850, +5 fill, +2 blacks, +5 brightness, +100 clarity, 0'd everything else.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QrhL5J3X7lM/TsXbTZuRhEI/AAAAAAAAXGQ/Ld9XwmTbCjA/s640/DSC_0054.jpg

Same bulbs, adjusted the white balance to 4100k to see how that looked for comparison.
Image: Nikon D90, ISO 1000, 1/6 sec, f/2.8 11mm cropped. WB: 4100, +5 fill, +2 blacks, +5 brightness, +100 clarity, 0'd everything else.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XUsEBShGDAk/TsXcbFrQ4iI/AAAAAAAAXGU/PX7Nh5lcTZI/s640/DSC_0054-1.jpg

[trailfiend]

Today rocked. I started out by breaking 1 control arm bolt... Then another. Aaaand another. the 4th came out clean though! Finally got everything cleaned up and ready to go to put the JCR brackets back on, got everything going good and started to torque down the nice new grade 8 bolts to spec when POP! The bolt broke. Not just kind of broke, not broke in a manageable spot, but broke on the uppermost bolt hole, in the most unreachable part.

Finally got it out, I need to get a tap to clean up the threads, get some new bolts and some PS fluid. I might take the opportunity to upgrade to a Durango V8 steering box...thoughts?

[Popsgarage]

Don't know enough about that swap to have an opinion. PM Hyphoid (Mike) and Pete did a post on that in the XJ tech section. Check that out.

[Hypoid]

I might take the opportunity to upgrade to a Durango V8 steering box...thoughts? I looked into that when I saw a few steering gears in the junkyard. If I remember it right, the Durango box has to be modified internally, to get the same turning radius as your stock gear.

I don't know what your build plans are, but, if you think you'll need a heavier steering gear, I hope you have already added subframe stiffeners and reinforced the front where the box mounts.

:2c:

http://www.c-rok.com/images/Inside-Frame-Damage400.jpg

http://articles.jeepforum.com/Thumbnails/474037100_2060.jpg

[trailfiend]

Moabtastic... My brother and I went to Moab for a couple of days, that was a blast. I got to play jeep, see "the pickle" trail (holy sh!t), and take pictures!

Got my passenger front wheel snagged on a ledge...
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L0Qv6G2ygjs/Tv4bEom4VBI/AAAAAAAAXlE/Uozy5vF784Q/s640/389570_10100324718403886_37500396_45742856_1228175 413_n%252520%2525281%252529.jpg

Poser shot...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CLy66PB_3Vk/Tv4DTpKNJqI/AAAAAAAAXig/-ht_H_B77gc/s640/DSC_0085HDR.jpg

Weird HDR of my brother and I.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-H92kNcuAkWs/Tv3_g89Z0EI/AAAAAAAAXhs/kyQo1Q3QUbc/s640/brothers.jpg

Wheel'd into Arches at night (figuring the road wouldn't be too bad, turned out to be quite the adventurous crawl! very fun)
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WC0J0ERZqqQ/Tv4Ae0sbXqI/AAAAAAAAXh4/0PwzfmnSbM4/s640/doublearchstar.jpg

And the rest are here (https://picasaweb.google.com/116406115289750198627/MoabDecember2011#), including a few panoramas, each pano is actually about 100 megapixels O.o

[Mporter]

That first pic/your avatar is sick. Nice shot.

[Michael4rnr]

Those are really awesome pictures.

[trailfiend]

I'm pretty sure my back pass. tire is off the ground in that first shot, I hadn't noticed it before! It was after getting over that rock that I decided I need to call my buddy about his ARB locker he's holding for me :)

Thanks for the compliments!

[Popsgarage]

Love the panoramic stars! My daughters going to want to know how you did that!

[glacierpaul]

Love the panoramic stars! My daughters going to want to know how you did that! That pic and Black Sabbath's "Into the Void"
Nice pic's Alex! Cool Jeep too! I love the Colorado badge!

[trailfiend]

Love the panoramic stars! My daughters going to want to know how you did that!

Thanks! For the panoramas I set the camera to manual, and I'm using a 3-D adjustable head on top of the regular ballhead, I level the ball head, then attach the 3D head, level that side to side w/ camera attached, then just star spinnin'. I stitch them with a free, and automatic program, called Microsoft ICE (http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/um/redmond/groups/ivm/ice/); it actually lets me export as full resolution too :D Which for each of those pano's is equivalent to between 80 and 100 megapixels hehe..

For the stars, there's a few options for that, depending on whether your camera can accept a hard-wired remote would be the determining factor for whether you'd be able to do it easily. The basic method is to get the hard-wired remote (http://www.amazon.com/Vivitar-Remote-Shutter-Release-Camera/dp/B005NCK8Q6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1325513231&sr=8-7) that allows you to "lock" the shutter down, while the camera is set on continuous drive, and this will fire off for about 100 pictures (when most camera's max out). The preferred method would be to get an off-brand intervalometer (http://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Timer-Remote-Control-Nikon/dp/B001QSG4R8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1325513303&sr=1-2), which allows you to set your camera's exposure to bulb, and control the length of the exposure from the remote (from 1 second to 59hrs, 59min, 59sec).

Basically, you want to have each single shot be able to show a good amount of detail in your frame (see below), and shoot one after the other consecutively for like an hour or... 8. Using this process helps significantly by reducing the digital camera's sensor tendency to actually heat up during the longer exposures (say... 10minutes+) which causes some nasty resulting image changes (noise, discoloration, harsh freaky purple gradient over the entire frame, etc.). I use this software (http://www.startrails.de/html/software.html) for the "stacking", you just take your edited pictures (batch edited for a little bit of light, color, etc.) and open them into the program, as well as what's called a darkframe - which is an exposure shot in the field at the same settings you shot the rest of the pictures at, but with the lens cap on. Doing this somehow reduces noise.

For that startrail, my camera settings were: (Nikon D90)
Tokina 12-24 at 12mm and f/4, ISO 640, on-camera exposure: bulb, intervalometer bulb setting: 60sec, 128 total exposures, one of which I ran around below the arch with my flash and diffuser to illuminate the pitch black foreground.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ur5LmzLVwEs/Tv4Ew7CXcPI/AAAAAAAAXjY/d-qSX7Ndz7k/s400/DSC_0165.jpg

That was a lot of info, and probably very confusing, I'm happy to clarify any time! And as far as setting, as long as you can expose properly for the stars, you're golden! You can do it really remote like arches, or urban. The use of a neutral density gradient filter (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004ZCI2/ref=asc_df_B00004ZCI21843970?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B00004ZCI2) with the darkest portion rotated over the city lights would be greatly effective for urban startrails and prevent overexposure on the city lights, or conversely, underexposure of the sky.


Cool Jeep too! I love the Colorado badge!

Thanks! I finally got around to putting those badges on, I love the look :)

[Popsgarage]

I'll have her chat at you about that. Maybe you can give her a lesson or two. She got a Nikon D3000 for her Birthday/Christmas present this year so it should be able to do some of this stuff. I'll shoot you a PM.

[trailfiend]

I finally did something truly noteworthy on the jeep. Not a headlight upgrade, or something dinky...

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/603186_10151407270739689_1538823311_n.jpg

I added inches! About 3.5 of them according to RE. I'm guessing probably closer to 4.5"~. Luckily, too, I didn't have *many* vibes from not lowering the transfercase. Even so, I had picked up a front driveshaft off of CL a while back, so I took the first part of the day and worked on banging out the old u-joints and putting in the Spicer adapter doohickey to bolt up to the RE hack-n-tap SYE. And started carving out some plastic bits to make a switch panel in preparation for the lights that should be here later this week/next week.... And eventually a compressor and lockers.

Today I did the hack-n-tap/driveshaft rebuild, went the route of cowl intake to free up some space (and add water-resistance) under the hood, and got some headway toward rearranging my aux. fuse panel/relay box, I need to figure out how I intend to organize the inside of the relay box - and map out how many relays I'll need to accomodate what I'm going to add to the panel...mostly lights, Dalighters, fogs, roof perimeter floods, reverse and rock lights; compressor and radar detector are what I'm thinking right now.

I didn't remember to take a picture of anything today, but here's what EricsXJ did, and I followed his write-up, so mine looks damn near the same.
http://www.ericsxj.com/intake/5081.jpg


New plans for the jeep include:
-Bedline the whole thing (maybe). It's going to change color one way or another, just haven't conclusively decided how.
-Swing-out tire carrier bumper project this winter (going to use 3x5 for the center, and plan on making it an air tank)
-Some form of rocker protection, either welding in 2x6, or going the Rigidco route.
-Unibody stiffeners.
-1-ton steering
-Control arm drop w/ johnny joint control arms
-TNT belly pan
-ARB's
-Sleeve and upgrade axles
-Either 4.10's or 4.56 gears, depends on when I decide to get new tires.
-33's.
-Buy a tube bender and begin working on a inner/exo cage.
-Use cage (in cargo area) as base for storage stuff.
-Winch...
-Figure out how to install keyless entry and alarm, set up rock lights to go on when doors unlock and roof lights to go on when alarm goes off. (Maybe record, "I can see you" as the alarm sound..)
-Once cage (or at least roof portion) is built, build a bolt-on cargo rack for camping and longer trips using these rad things. (http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/OD-Tube-Clamp_p_1474.html)


I've got new nutstrips and beefcake hinge, courtesy of JCRoffroad, for the rear bumper. Figure, also, that since I'll lose a good 80% of usable FOV from the rearview mirror, that I might replace the mirror with a cheap rearview camera system, could prove useful.

I'm also currently in debate for whether I want to put the extra 2" lift on with the 3.5", I've got a budget boost I was originally going to install before I bought the kit for the springs. Might look a little ridiculous on 31's....

[Popsgarage]

Looks really good, I like it!!!!!!!!

[trailfiend]

Finally wrapped up the latest of additions; including Bilstein's, new steering stabilizer, JKS diskos, and a switch panel/fuse+relay system for adding lights/compressor/crap.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-43uYdwdON8Q/UGYkTBppENI/AAAAAAAAYsQ/JPU3TDdCLIY/s640/flourish-wm-1.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LRCfX7aqjLs/UGYkTWK6UtI/AAAAAAAAYsY/H2Cwu_XHh-c/s640/flourish-wm-3.jpg

When I was putting in the steering stabilizer I had a pile of RockShox stickers from work... so I re-branded it from RE.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cGUU_IDAPco/UGYkRv76a0I/AAAAAAAAYsI/lzvfE9BxCgg/s640/flourish-wm-2.jpg

[Rick]

Looks sweet and very capable...good job Alex.

[trailfiend]

Looks sweet and very capable...good job Alex.

I couldn't have pulled it off without the ability to borrow your stands! Thanks again!

[Cr33p3r]

Jeep is looking good and thanks for the info on how you did the photo, really cool and I need to play with that stuff once I get a timeout.

[trailfiend]

I don't know if it works still - probably just need an actual Nikon battery - but I have my old D70s and I have all the remotes to be able to do those. All ya need is a lens and anyone on here is welcome to borrow it.

Hell, I might even give it away - I don't particularly need it.

[trailfiend]

To feebly prove this thread ain't dead (yet), here's some stuff.

A while back I cut and folded my lower quarter panels. I like the look and clearance I gained, but there's a nagging thought in the back of my mind that the sheet metal back there is incredibly vulnerable - farther away from rocks, but it's just thin sheet metal that I picture getting f'd pretty easily.

And I enjoy building things myself enough (read: cheap).

Step 1: remove OE bumper, and cut out sheet metal that covers the frame.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--FYry4_EIPY/UWeFM0R-UXI/AAAAAAAAZj0/B2CDCJf-JIY/s640/DSC_0150.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VfJ_EOMc1Yw/UWeFlgHKH5I/AAAAAAAAZkY/XYW4ncowEBk/s640/DSC_0152.jpg

Step 2: frame mounts. I've read that the OE mounts for the rear bumpers on these jeeps is not to be trusted for recovery - and it's unimpressive when I got a look at it. I'm going to mount the bumper using three 1/2" bolts per side on the same mounts that the hitch mounts to - I think I'll also pick up some more angle to incorporate the OE mount for extra strength... shouldn't take too much effort and can't hurt anything.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Udw9LnGujNc/UWeFPvCv1wI/AAAAAAAAZkE/_7Q0faDtSX4/s640/DSC_0148.jpg

The new nutstrips from JCR Offroad are well-made and burly.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XdFT60DDOx4/UWeFjEAdk7I/AAAAAAAAZkQ/YMk0lGErgNk/s640/DSC_0153.jpg

Tacking the frame mounts to the center portion of the bumper.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hQnEK8ekTWk/UWeFmRX3TaI/AAAAAAAAZkg/Wead6oB1-7E/s640/DSC_0155.jpg

All things considered, I didn't decided plan on starting this project today, and didn't go to get materials till noon - it was nearly 2 by the time I got started. The hitch was a pain to remove, and by the time I got to start welding, I ran out of wire. Which was probably for the best, it was also 9 when I did, I shouldn't stay up all night building this...

Tomorrow I'll get more wire and hopefully be able to finish up the side pieces that'll angle up and forward, I hope to either start the quarter panel slider part of the bumper tomorrow as well, or early Saturday.

[Popsgarage]

That's the only way to build bumpers for the XJ's Alex. The eight bolt locations that the factory bumper mounts to can also be incorporated into the bumper you are building as well. Make two plates for the mounts and drill four holes in each and slide them over the tubes you are going to slide into the frame rails. Depending on how snug you have the bumper to the body you can either pre-install the bolts into the plate before you weld them on or sleeve holes in the tube for access. Then you can incorporate your tow hitch directly into the back of the bumper and just use some plate for the JCR nut strips to sandwich the factory sheet metal. Again, depending on how snug the bumper is to the body you should have just enough room to slide a pin into the receiver. Use some flat plate or round bar for the safety chain hook points. Whatever you decide to to, anti-seize the snot out of the bolts you do use so they don't rust in. Can't wait to see more.

[trailfiend]

That's a good idea, Jon. I was thinking more about that this morning and will add some plate to mount to the 8 bolt locations on the crossmember. I don't plan on towing with this, mainly just recovery and at some point I plan to hook my bike rack up to it - when I picked up the steel they didn't have any receiver material in stock, so I'll have to add that at a later time when I can source it. Until then I'll just keep the factory hitch on.

There's going to be a generous amount of anti-seize on these bolts :) I learned the hard way with the front bumper how much it sucks to deal with broken bolts..

Tonight I got the welder back up and running, and finished welding the center portion of the bumper.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jJRLoqlSwkU/UWjhRrpvJXI/AAAAAAAAZk4/Dkwmb1NNhHg/s640/DSC_0157.jpg

This is approximately the reveal that it'll have when I'm finished. The center of the bumper will have 1" reveal from the hatch.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0_B_jT2waOI/UWjhUaPRfvI/AAAAAAAAZlI/Nfm662L0Y6k/s640/DSC_0158.jpg

That reveal lends me about 3.5" of clearance from the back of the bumper to the face of the crossmember, it will be tight, but there should be room for hitch pin dealings down the road. I was thinking while the bumper was still just a concept, that I would extend a few pieces of 1/8" bar stock to fill the gap there on top, but it's so minimal that I don't think I'll bother.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qUbFMc04zRk/UWjhTKQgebI/AAAAAAAAZlA/z2QV6fBE88c/s640/DSC_0159.jpg

With that tight of clearance to the back of the jeep, I think it will work great as a bumper alone, but planning to eventually add a tire carrier swingarm, I realized I won't have clearance for typical hinge if I want to keep the bumper tucked in tight to the body - which I like the idea of (bumper in closer, that is) especially now that I've already fabbed up the frame mounts...

So this is the idea I would like to integrate down the road when the time comes. It shouldn't be too bad, I won't be too concerned about the reverse light being blocked off - I'll have lights mounted to the bumper by that time for that (just not sure how, or what, yet).
http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/images/D/Img_2122.jpg

And this is where it sits now - given my limited tooling at home for cutting (chop saw and assorted angle grinders) cutting the angled bits is rather slow, it's not intolerable given the limited quantity of cuts, much more than the cuts I'm doing and I would be high-tailing it to Club Workshop. Tomorrow morning I'll cut the other piece, tack it into place and get the two sides lined up, cap the open ends, and build the quarter panel sliders. My goal is to get the whole thing fully welded, and do what I can to smooth out the exterior welds and prime the thing
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sFTZf81N9pI/UWjhbTPAyiI/AAAAAAAAZlQ/sOwsqLtXO_k/s640/DSC_0160.jpg

On a side note, I think I'll build some rock rails fairly soon as well - not sure if I want to model them off the RigidCo design with 2x2 angled to match the body, or more traditional. Either way, I like the idea of higher clearance rock rails, I would love the JCR Ultimate slider w/ tube, but it's too much dough. I'm open to suggestions!

[glacierpaul]

Looking good! I would fill that 1/8" gap just to prevent water and mud from getting in there and rusting, just a thought.

[trailfiend]

Looking good! I would fill that 1/8" gap just to prevent water and mud from getting in there and rusting, just a thought.

I will be, I'm also thinking that before I paint it, I'll throw a couple of small drain holes in the bottom and flood the thing with this stuff. We use it at the bike shop to keep steel frames from rusting - it's basically a really thick, tenacious goop that coats the steel... since I can't easily remove the mill scale to apply a coat of paint, I think this should work alright.
http://img1.qbp.com/6SPsvm45/prodl/LU7500.jpg

[glacierpaul]

cool!

[Hypoid]

I will be, I'm also thinking that before I paint it, I'll throw a couple of small drain holes in the bottom and flood the thing with this stuff. We use it at the bike shop to keep steel frames from rusting - it's basically a really thick, tenacious goop that coats the steel... since I can't easily remove the mill scale to apply a coat of paint, I think this should work alright.
http://img1.qbp.com/6SPsvm45/prodl/LU7500.jpg

I like that idea! Is it flammable after it cures?

That is the primary problem I have with bed liner. If you have to do any repair work after it is applied:
You have to remove it.
It is still flammable after it cures.
The smoke is highly toxic when it does burn.

Nice work, BTW. :)

[Popsgarage]

Double shear on the tire carrier is the way you want to go anyway, and even though you don't plan to tow anything, you never know when you might have to, which is why I suggested integrating the tow hitch up high. Looking really good, by the way!:thumb:

[Starkman]

Looks great!

[Cr33p3r]

That is looking really good so far!

[trailfiend]

Thanks for the compliments!


I like that idea! Is it flammable after it cures?

That is the primary problem I have with bed liner. If you have to do any repair work after it is applied:
You have to remove it.
It is still flammable after it cures.
The smoke is highly toxic when it does burn.

Nice work, BTW. :)

I was going to bedline the whole jeep, the durability is really appealing, but your point is largely why I don't know if I will.

I'm not sure if this stuff is flammable after it dries, I'll see if their label mentions anything when I get back to the shop - but I was also thinking about poking a slightly larger hole in the bumper and pouring some rusty metal primer in and spreading it around to ensure a more protective coating... Either way, it'll end up costing the same. I decided on using some Krylon Rust Tough semi-flat black for the bumper - I've heard reviews of it being the closest thing to powdercoat durability that you can get in a spray paint.

And it says "tough" in its name...

Got the other "wing" cut and tacked together this morning. It went faster than I anticipated. As did my spool of welding wire...
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yPODHG8EHkI/UWo2wufcyII/AAAAAAAAZmA/-BbB_Tahoms/s640/DSC_0163.jpg

I can't wait to put a gas tank skid together, motivation to get moving on that is increasing with the amount of time I have to struggle with the heat shield.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-AcsATXhyK9c/UWo2vgIP7_I/AAAAAAAAZl4/rMs_LUs1yNw/s640/DSC_0165.jpg

I knew progress was being made when I got to stop playing with 2x4 and 2x6 tube...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NzCWrWQQG5M/UWo2vRV-d7I/AAAAAAAAZl0/MT2E-LeVSJs/s640/DSC_0167.jpg

Mitered the corners, capped everything, and ground ground ground welds smooth.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-whZes7nMDp8/UWo3FvbToCI/AAAAAAAAZmQ/KflpbWW4zTg/s640/DSC_0170.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M8bfg3rMAHo/UWo3FuY7DII/AAAAAAAAZmM/QTSScO4L1zU/s640/DSC_0171.jpg

This is how it sits currently (with some JB Weld filling in assorted gaps that filler primer won't take care of).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N-xbSnaE4e4/UWo3GlSuxVI/AAAAAAAAZmY/HRrZwhrshh8/s640/DSC_0172.jpg

I had the idea to pick up a couple of these for d-ring tabs, mainly because I figure it would be easier to run a hole-saw through the box steel rather than trying to cut square holes. And it would be kind of unique. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Tube-Clevis-End_p_1682.html

I still need to put together some tie-in brackets for the quarter panel guards to the frame, and put together some brackets to integrate the factory bumper mounts and it'll be ready for paint - I'll add the receiver and recovery points later when I decide how I want to go about that.

[Hypoid]

Those tube thingys are pretty clever. I don't know if it's $60 worth of clever, but all the same, I like-em. :)

I'm going to stop just short of shameless commerce and say that I have a reciever tube that I'd part with... :D

[Popsgarage]

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nd_p_1682.html

Oooooo........pretty sexy! That'd definitely be a different approach! You could bring them through where the mounts you made slide into the frame, and even the biggest ones would still fit inside the tube. Nice idea that I just might steal one of these days.


reciever tube that I'd part with...

And I'd do this as well. Most of the work is done for ya this way.

[glacierpaul]

Looking good!

[trailfiend]

I'm going to stop just short of shameless commerce and say that I have a reciever tube that I'd part with...

I'll throw ya some dollars if you feel like swinging by the back door of Golden Bike Shop today some time :) Or I could trade you an Eldorado burrito.

I'm not thrilled with the price on those tube ends, but the amount of work I had to put into the recovery points on the front bumper was rather time consuming - they work great.


Oooooo........pretty sexy! That'd definitely be a different approach! You could bring them through where the mounts you made slide into the frame, and even the biggest ones would still fit inside the tube. Nice idea that I just might steal one of these days.

I like how convenient they'd be to install :)

[xaza]

For the receiver mount, couldn't you cut and grind old hitch, slot bumper and weld in receiver tube? Nice looking bumper!

[Popsgarage]

I like how convenient they'd be to install

Drill a hole with a hole saw and slide 'em in and weld 'em up.

[trailfiend]

With the tremendously helpful donation of a receiver from Mike, I was able to get the bumper to a state where it was ready for priming and painting yesterday! I still want to pick up some tube-end recovery points, add some chain attachments below the receiver, and figure out some way to fill the gap between the top of the bumper and the bottom of my tail/turn/reverse lights (maybe add a really thin fog light as aux. reverse light?), but given my potential plans for some form of a inner/exo cage that would attach to the bumper and allow for a bit of a differently designed tire carrier (with two dual-sheer hinges!) I'm okay with holding off on that right now.

It's still getting coats of paint and drying, so no installed pictures just yet...

Primed - 4ish coats, 1 with etching primer, 3-4 with filler primer
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VFPSvdiiWrU/UXBdsC36ntI/AAAAAAAAZuo/lENHEpHVxJQ/s640/DSC_0003.jpg

Light first coat.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t5g-gucktMA/UXBd0A7i4ZI/AAAAAAAAZuo/lzB8tU8VR5c/s640/DSC_0008.jpg

This is pretty much what it'll look like - just trying to get a stronger finish with as many coats in high-wear areas as I can right now.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uwQIM74ur6E/UXBd2quR2fI/AAAAAAAAZu4/PwMyJe9L9rE/s640/DSC_0013.jpg

Corner detail? Sure.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s_IYInpLx7k/UXBd5SYqxOI/AAAAAAAAZuo/mG1jNFTdn9Y/s640/DSC_0015.jpg

Also took a minute to get rid of some faded stickers, as well as begin removing zombie stickers in favor of some slightly less ridiculous stickers. Hopefully soon I'll get my photography logo die cut printed big enough to span the back window, too :)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-albkqqF-szA/UXBdxwCbawI/AAAAAAAAZuo/2vNK0VUZmLw/s640/DSC_0010.jpg

I should get some more shots tonight of the bumper once it's installed. But until then, here's a rough list of future plans revised:

- Ball joints and hubs on the front end soon.
- Paint. This blue is annoying, scratched up (and keyed! :mad:). I was going to bedline it, but in favor of adding things to the body later, rattlecan khaki is moving up on the list.
- Re-trim front fenders to reduce rubbing in spots.
- Redesign rear cargo box to allow whole back area to quickly transform into a large platform for sleeping for times I don't want to (or can't) use a tent.
- Inner/exo cage with roof halo and exterior A- and D-pillar supports, A-pillar going behind the fender and tying into rock sliders, D-pillar being just outboard of the hatch and attaching to the rear bumper via bushing, and to these I will attach a rear tire carrier (in theory). Not unlike the picture below (but it wouldn't be stinger-like).
- Shackle relocation brackets, burlier shackles, and relocate the shock tabs.
- Bigger tires and a regear when money allows.
- Transfercase and gas tank skids.
- Detroit TrueTrac front and rear.
- Rear discs.


http://www.genright.com/images/products/RTC3800_DS3qtr_xl.jpg

[Rick]

that looks GREAT!!!!!! Good Job Alex.:thumb:

[Popsgarage]

I dig how it kinda matches the lines of your front bumper. Nice design!

[trailfiend]

I dig how it kinda matches the lines of your front bumper. Nice design!

Thanks! I'm glad that I cut up the lower quarter panels, it allowed me to carry that sort of detail to the back. I'm happy with the way it turned out so far :) I got about halfway into welding it when I remembered I wanted to do a tire carrier and hadn't ironed out the details for the hinge yet - but I think having the bumper as tight to the body as it is will be beneficial for the ideas I'm playing with right now...

[trailfiend]

More... It bolted up slightly ****-eyed tonight, where as yesterday it went in rather straight. Not sure why, but it's still new paint and it's not fully cured yet so I wanted to be gentle. I got all but 1 bolt in when mounting... And for the parts that're crooked - I'll just plan on coming down on a rock to take care of those parts ;)

I like the limited reveal, but I'm feeling that I would like to have more. A few inches more would look pretty good, I think.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rlUkBudyDZU/UXCcvCsVzdI/AAAAAAAAZv4/41kHHX29-pE/s640/DSC_0018.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Bv7zfriqZUs/UXCcpz8h2OI/AAAAAAAAZv4/Gphpyx767ME/s640/DSC_0019.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ps4lzAf7NRI/UXCcw-PGnxI/AAAAAAAAZv4/WNQfeMxhkHg/s640/DSC_0021.jpg

Front bumper for comparison...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0DhMHoghgEo/UXCc7NHmCLI/AAAAAAAAZv4/QMY8r_4TzOI/s640/DSC_0022.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tvhWmu0frHM/UXCc79NnhlI/AAAAAAAAZv4/jCwOhRTlYms/s640/DSC_0023.jpg

I installed my bike rack (Thule T2) and the hatch interferes with the latch mechanism (or the other way around?)... either way, I can't open my hatch very well without wiggling the rack around to work it around the hatch. Lucky me I have like 6 extra feet of 2x2" steel that I can make a longer hitch mount for the rack :)

[dscowell]

Is your front bumper from JCR?

[trailfiend]

No, I built it myself a little over a year ago, JCR's design inspired it, as did AJ's Offroad. I like JCR's bumpers a lot but didn't want the bumper to stick out as far forward as theirs do.

[dscowell]

I see. I thought it looked alot like one of JCR's bumpers thats why I asked. Does look very good you did a good job on it!

[glacierpaul]

The best touch is the carabiner on the d-ring mount :) Seriously, looks awesome and you did a sweet job!

[Popsgarage]

Seriously, looks awesome and you did a sweet job!

I couldn't agree more!

[Popsgarage]

I wanted to do a tire carrier and hadn't ironed out the details for the hinge yet

The double shear you posted a picture of will work just fine and look good too. And double shear of some sort is what you want to do anyway. Far stronger than a spindle and easier to mount as well. If it sticks off the back of the bumper a bit it won't hurt anything.

[trailfiend]

The best touch is the carabiner on the d-ring mount

haha, I found that in box somewhere with some high-line rigging equipment - big burly galvanized steel locking 'biner has proven more useful on the front than the actual shackle I have for up there! Mostly for tying up my dog when I've gotta do something nearby.

Thanks for the compliments everyone! I'm glad to have it bolted up right now so I can keep planning more stuff!

[glacierpaul]

Good on ya for keeping control of your dog! Just make sure you never have a National Lampoon moment!:erm:

[trailfiend]

New tires! Not yet installed :( Tires go on early tomorrow morning, and ball joints go on after that once I get home.

TreadWright Guard Dog in the 265/70r16 variety. By the numbers they should end up being about the same height, just a bit wider. They also sent a full matching set of casings, which I was very excited to see.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V-HR3QaPY_A/UbKdpRDcUII/AAAAAAAAZ8M/gz7GF6yZPts/s640/KIMG0093.JPG


Nice to take the opportunity and compare them side-by-side to my Duratracs. I look forward to a solid improvement on traction offroad, and a quiet ride compared to the poorly wearing front tires and worn ball joints.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lfPAupoLtH0/UbKdpV2lUDI/AAAAAAAAZ8Q/U21OTalAO5Y/s640/KIMG0094.JPG

[glacierpaul]

Nice! The Duratracs are a great tire too. I have been impressed by the Guarddogs, but I want the Goodyear Kevlars back for summer wheeling.

[trailfiend]

Mmmmmm kevlars.. They're such a nice tire. I had no real complaints with the Duratracs for overall performance, they didn't tend to want to pull themselves that great on some rockier trails, but that's also got plenty to do with open diffs. My biggest issue is really just that about 60% through the tread, there's stabilizing ribs that make the tire pretty useless in wet conditions, which is my concern of continuing to use the front tires (if they were to begin wearing evenly again).

[xaza]

Sweet, you'll be real happy I'm sure

[Funrover]

Coming along nicely!

[trailfiend]

I need to get some updated pictures for you guys, I've got the tires mounted up, new ball joints and new brakes on the front (holy sh*t that's easy to do yourself!), and last weekend I decided to clean up the rear axle out of boredom and make it look a little fancier with a quart of Rustoleum hammered silver. It came out better than I anticipated, most importantly, it's not rust-colored and oil-stained anymore. I also am giving the hammered silver a test-run as a potential body color by using it on my roof.

Here's a Comanche I found that the owner painted with the hammered silver... I've always liked the look of silver cherokees, but I'm pretty set on painting the long arms, steering, and front axle that same hammered silver when I upgrade the front end... how bad do you guys think it would look to have the same color on the axles/control arms/springs etc., as is on the body? Bumpers, sliders, roof rack/or cage would all be black still.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/jeepguy1990/Comanche%20Paintjob/Comanche101507005.jpg

The other idea, is desert tan. Every time I see this jeep I just want to make mine magically look like his. I'm really leaning toward this color, I love the natural earthy tone, the unique color and flat finish....

http://ericsxj.com/paint/5158.jpg

Shorter term plans for the heep include:
- doorless conversion (pretty much exclusively so I can properly paint the door jambs)
- ^ also so I can weld in 2x6" steel for rockers
- somehow find a rather substantial amount of money so I can gather all the small parts from Ballistic for my rear tire carrier
- strip and reweld front bumper (welds were a bit cold initially), and in doing so add a taller stinger/grille hoop (to hang an LED bar from!)

[dscowell]

Silver in my opinion would be better then tan. Tan is a body color I don't think it would look very good on other parts.

[Popsgarage]

Silver for everything wouldn't look bad and any color you decided to use as an accent would really pop.

[glacierpaul]

Silver for everything wouldn't look bad and any color you decided to use as an accent would really pop.

X2! That is a cool Comanche too!

[trailfiend]

I've always liked the hi-line fender options for wranglers... And this guy's build for his wife's jeep is rather inspiring for future projects...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachments/jeep-cherokee/690996d1345369821-finally-building-my-wifes-89-xj-imageuploadedbytapatalk1345369817.328607.jpg

And also his bumper...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachments/jeep-cherokee/690998d1345369862-finally-building-my-wifes-89-xj-imageuploadedbytapatalk1345369859.656181.jpg

I need to invest in a tube bender... I've got a cage fully designed, most of a theory for the front end now...

[Popsgarage]

I'm digging the leaves in front.

[trailfiend]

Started a couple of projects these past few days...

Removed the carped in the back prepping for a new cargo area design and bedlining the interior of the thing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NTosx51ghFI/UgMIBNQPxAI/AAAAAAAAaCQ/nTWsVB6EEDE/s640/DSC_0037.jpg

Today I started working on a swing-out receiver for my bike rack. It'll be using oil-impregnated bronze bushings for the hinge and a 1" bolt, on the other side it'll use a 1" hitch pin (because it's easier to make another DOM hinge for the other side..) and a toggle latch to keep shaking to a minimum. On top of that I'm thinking about an insert/attachment to tie it into the receiver on the bumper to add some rigidity when I have a few bikes on the rack. Not entirely sure how I'll do that just yet.

I also bought a new lens....so, not even dipping into the f/1.4 I'm happy with this lens.

Hinge..
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KUSATCjdcac/UgMII_cHSZI/AAAAAAAAaC0/aTD9bakzrt4/s640/DSC_0044.jpg

Finished up one of the brackets (correctly, I didn't fully jig the first one properly, came out crooked...), threw some primer on it, got the 1/2" hardware arranged - using socket cap bolts due to tight clearances, I need to track down some 1/2" ID tube of some sort to make anti-crush sleeves for the bumper.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jleJw9oBvSE/UgMIIxjchXI/AAAAAAAAaCw/WQWs7w8-1V4/s640/DSC_0047.jpg


And.... built another Yeti at work the other day. Pretty bicycles like to grace my stand with their presence.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9onegRiFW94/UgMIBarMJHI/AAAAAAAAaCM/-u99AZFXlR0/s640/DSC_0025.jpg

And we sent this out that night, too...
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UWgivLxDDqg/UgMIAbekotI/AAAAAAAAaCI/OyhjCIT485Y/s640/DSC_0036.jpg

[trailfiend]

Made some progress on my swingout bike carrier today. I have to drill the final 2 mounting holes for one of the brackets, cut and weld the receiver to the swingarm and add some gussets - I've got a few chunks of 1" .120 wall that I think I'll use to stiffen up the receiver. I noticed that when I was pushing down on the arm when I had it mounted up that, while there was a little deflection in my mount, most of the deflection and flex I was seeing was from my bumper itself somehow... so with the location of the mount, I plan on adding a gusset on the back side of the bumper to tie the wing into the mount bracket, as well as add a tie-in to the factory mount to give it some rigidity.. I've been lazy and putting that off since I don't have recovery points installed yet. Also have to tie the lower quarter panel guard into the unibody soon as well.

Progress from today. Ran around all morning, had to get some 3/4" .120 wall tube to use as anti-crush sleeves in the bumper, needed the receiver material and a 1" bolt to be able to do anything. And my Amazon order came yesterday, so I had everything all lined up...
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jnIJqXTFWSQ/Ug2jZuWAPeI/AAAAAAAAaDs/yt7KZChCGUg/s640/DSC_0080.jpg

Finished up the other mounting bracket, and secured both sides with 1 screw each to allow me to fine-tune their angles. The 1" bolt is really, really big.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_WGYjrE96HY/Ug2jEx_iUWI/AAAAAAAAaDc/e4C8AR5Y0lo/s640/DSC_0082.jpg

It's really satisfying to finally go from piles of random crap to bolting something together, even though at this point I only had one bolt per bracket, and one bushing installed/set up. I think I'll add some small tabs to attach my hi-lift to the swingarm so I can finally get it out of the cab.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SCxytahfl80/Ug2jNmkNsSI/AAAAAAAAaDk/Gl5Ij0Oz_AQ/s640/DSC_0083.jpg

Can't really tell, but I had rounded off the end of the bar - not necessary, but it looks kind of nice.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eKP1z7r3wzo/Ug2kvGZ_-nI/AAAAAAAAaEI/ncuDoEUxS3Y/s640/DSC_0102.jpg

The latch side will be secured via 2000# rated cam latch, and a ridiculously huge 1" diameter clevis pin. I'll weld a little tab for a leash to keep that behemoth in check next time I get around to working on this.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_6RnktzpZvk/Ug2k6EHjzdI/AAAAAAAAaEU/ZBIfPej-B8A/s640/DSC_0103.jpg

While seeing all this come to fruition is satisfying in itself - it's really rather exciting when you get parts shipped in and picked up from all sorts of different vendors and locations and they're all exactly what you had in mind and need in order to accomplish the goals of the project.





......now, if only I can figure out why the hell my bushings are rotating with the swingarm when I open it up, instead of the arm rotating around the bushings. Perhaps it's too tight of a pressfit between the bushings and the tube? I put a light coat of some really tenacious grease that I have for working on bikes in the sleeve before I slid the bushings in, they seemed to slide in fairly easily... I can easily enough ream out the inside of the tube a little bit, or should I start off by going back over the faces of the sleeve and making sure they're perfectly square?

[Popsgarage]

now, if only I can figure out why the hell my bushings are rotating with the swingarm when I open it up, instead of the arm rotating around the bushings.

I'd honestly thing that would be the way the bushing was designed. Most bushings I've ever dealt with worked this way. They should press into the sleeve and rotate around the center "pin".

[trailfiend]

I'd honestly thing that would be the way the bushing was designed. Most bushings I've ever dealt with worked this way. They should press into the sleeve and rotate around the center "pin".

That makes sense, I guess I had hoped it would have more similarity to a bearing system. As long as it spins smoothly, it's not like I'm going to be moving it a lot, either way it's metal riding on metal I guess. I guess for that to happen I'd have to sink some money into a bearing setup like Comp4x4 has...

I've been meaning to call you still, haven't found a good time around work.

[Popsgarage]

I've been meaning to call you still, haven't found a good time around work.

Don't worry about it, I've been super busy as well.

[trailfiend]

This morning I got all the bracketry finished and mounted up, and welded on the receiver. I notched the receiver around the crossbar and ran a 1/2" bolt for additional shear strength through the tabs.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-AGnEl0L3EY0/UhWCU1-lgJI/AAAAAAAAaFQ/MO3DFqxcZrQ/s640/DSC_0108.jpg

Then I hopped up and down on the receiver, watching the flex and motion that wasn't happening... realized I had the materials on hand.... so...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q-QoisGju6U/UhWCVZum_-I/AAAAAAAAaFU/sqdqVGGTYH8/s640/DSC_0109.jpg

Now I'm building it as a tire carrier.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jY5g5DGGzJY/UhWCVdP6WcI/AAAAAAAAaFY/7DT4aimj9To/s640/DSC_0110.jpg

Painted it up with some Krylon Rust Tough semi-flat black. I was going to do brush on, but it was too sloppy for my taste. Rattlecan isn't as strong, but it's nice and smooth, at least.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-72Yik9oR7ss/UhWCY_DjSCI/AAAAAAAAaFg/JM8d5PTi--w/s640/DSC_0115.jpg

Now I need to get my mitts on a tire mounting plate, attach it to some 2x2 that I have, drill a couple of holes and either weld a nut into the square, or tap threads into the 2" so I can pull it tight to one side. You can see a 3/8" hole that I put in the back of the tire mounting tube, I'll run a bolt into that with a jam nut to put some downward pressure on the bit that's actually holding the tire, to keep it from bouncing too much. I should be able to get the whole thing finish mounted tomorrow morning, and I'm going to see if I can track down a mounting plate at 4 wheel parts, if I do, I should be able to get everything burnt in and painted promptly so I can get to work by midday.

I sure hope 4WP has the part in stock that I need, I'll be able to wrap up this last minute change in time for the trail run on Saturday. I'm not sure if I've got enough steel, but I hope to steal this idea to mount my hi-lift... I'm tired of dealing with that thing inside the jeep.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v97/dubstyl/rear086.jpg

[Popsgarage]

I've got a Jeep spare tire mounting plate at the house that you can have. I believe I even have some spare Jeep lug bolts. Gimme a call in the A.M.

[trailfiend]

Jon, it was great meeting you last night.

I love your idea of small boatsides, I had an idea to use 1/2" UHMW for the plating rather than something like 3/16" steel to shave some weight; and working the plastic is really similar to working on wood - I can counterbore all day long to hide bolt heads! Amazon has some good prices on narrower sheets - I think when the time comes I'll pick some up for my gas tank skid, that removable skid for the new front bumper concept, as well as the rockers. Might even go as far as plating the belly skid with some 3/8" or 1/4" UHMW as well - I hear it slides easier over rocks.

[Popsgarage]

UHMW would be a very viable option for the boat sides and belly pan. Easily replaced, lightweight and easy to work with. We need to get a brainstorming session planned for one of these days and figure out where you want to cut the doors and door sills for the sliders, how you want to build the new bumper and how to mount the UHMW on the boatsides and belly pan. I'm thinking countersunk holes as well. And the soft surface of the plastic would absorb some of the shock/impact if you landed on it. Looking forward to this one, it's gonna be fun.:thumb:

[trailfiend]

I can't wait - to be able to afford all the materials!

I also did some reading up on the 9". I think I want one. Weight is comparable to an 8.8, and they're sweet.

[The StRanger]

UHMW would be a very viable option for the boat sides and belly pan. Easily replaced, lightweight and easy to work with. We need to get a brainstorming session planned for one of these days and figure out where you want to cut the doors and door sills for the sliders, how you want to build the new bumper and how to mount the UHMW on the boatsides and belly pan. I'm thinking countersunk holes as well. And the soft surface of the plastic would absorb some of the shock/impact if you landed on it. Looking forward to this one, it's gonna be fun.:thumb:

If Im not mistaken you can get sheets of UHMW at the rest supply place on Arapahoe east of I 25.
the old Red Barn Playhouse..

[The StRanger]

Weight is comparable to an 8.8, and they're sweet.

And if you choose you can get 8 lug axles..

[Popsgarage]

And if you choose you can get 8 lug axles..

Just by changing the shafts. Ford 9's are pretty damn cool.

[The StRanger]

Just by changing the shafts. Ford 9's are pretty damn cool.
Yup.
You can also shave the bottom and get an extra inch

[Popsgarage]

Steel housings are cool 'cause you can actually weld to 'em so installin' mounts and trusses are a snap.

[trailfiend]

I think I'd try to stick to a ratio that doesn't need 2 different pairs of wheels... 5x4.5 if possible would be great, if not 5x5/5.5, that way I can steal parts from a WJ D30 for the front..

Do you guys, or anyone else, know of a good resource for 9 inch build info? Seems like if I can find one from a Lincoln somethingorother I'd get 1/4" tubes, and sounds like they had the big bearing or 31 spline shafts... I don't really care much if I got 28 or 31 spline considering I don't plan on going to tires larger than 33" until this thing finds a home on a trailer; I'd like to go full float, discs... shave it... love to do selectable, but not sure if that's a viable option for me. I've got 1.5" wheel spacers on now, so I wouldn't mind having a rear axle come in at 62"-63" WMS, I know most 9's come in at about 65".

Not that this matters much, I can't afford an axle now.

[Popsgarage]

Check with Sean (1freaky1) or little Chris (Fordboy77). They're both Ford guys and would have a wealth of info for ya.

[The StRanger]

Look for 1st Gen Bronco's

[The StRanger]

And the Explorer rear disc brake backing plates mount up to the 9 inch so you can run four wheel disc !

[trailfiend]

Awesome. I'll keep that in mind when I have money! haha

[Popsgarage]

Sound's like Sam knows a little bit about some Ford stuff as well. Tons of resources on this board. Check With Mike (hypoid). He's been known to know a thing or two about just about everything.:thumb: And he ain't above doin' some research either.

[trailfiend]

Thanks to Jon, I was able to get my spare OUT of the cargo area, and mounted up to the back of the jeep. Finally. It also makes the jeep look a little more like a real jeep, too.

I decided to mount it at an angle, it would probably be more useful if I had it set up higher that way, but I've always liked the way tilted spares look on XJ's.
https://sphotos-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1233596_10152167242539689_42588862_n.jpg

Tire carry insert is held in with a 1/2" bolt, and I have a 3/8" hole tapped into the top to pinch the insert secure to prevent rattling. I have the same arrangement on the lower hitch for the bike rack - I've always had a problem with the bike rack bouncing, figure this is better than any janky anti-rattle thing you can purchase out there.
https://sphotos-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1148996_10152167242489689_783578672_n.jpg

My Thule rack didn't fit with the tire mounted, and until I can get the time to put together a arm to mount the rack to that'll bring it out a bit further. Or I'll just wait and finish building my own.
https://sphotos-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/560514_10152167242644689_1618947867_n.jpg

I didn't get around to building some tie-ins to attach the LQP sliders to the frame, I'm not sure how exactly I intend to pull that off just yet, either.

[The StRanger]

Sweet

[xaza]

lookin sweet, nice work.

[Popsgarage]

Lookin' good young man. Glad I could help. Will be talkin' to you pretty soon about some parts. Need to build some bump stops and pick up some trail spares first.

[trailfiend]

The other day I ran out of things to do. So I browsed some photography blogs, checked out some of the work of one of my favorite landscape photographers, and stumbled upon this picture.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uqPtgXcjpV0/UjkSX3Qw6RI/AAAAAAAAaKo/3N-n89uu8kM/s640/Screen%2520Shot%25202013-09-17%2520at%25208.39.00%2520PM.png

I continued to surf the web, looking at others' pictures of Horseshoe Bend, found some pictures of Bryce Canyon, some slot canyons, and then I found a picture of his photo booth at an art show. It took all of about 12 seconds for me to decide I need to do a road trip taking me back to a few spots I've already been, and many many new places.

Roughly including:
- Goosenecks State Park
- Grand (chocolate) falls
- Horseshoe Bend
- Bryce Canyon
- Capitol Reef
- back to Moab for sunrise at Mesa Arch
- Rattlesnake arch in Grand Junction for sunset that same day
- more......?

Most of my driving will be through the day, most of the shooting will be before/during sunrise, or generally during sunset and into the night. I don't want to limit my nocturnal shooting to how long I can stay awake before driving back to camp, and most of the places I'll be shooting will likely be a bit away from designated campgrounds. I also don't like setting up any of my tents, they take too long, and they take up space inside the jeep.

Inspiration:

http://www.autohome-official.com/images/slides/maggiolina-safari/01.jpg

(rough) plan of attack:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZbLQFKvsyQ4/UjhmD-gReUI/AAAAAAAAaKU/YxqIhq0-4ao/s640/RTT.png

With this kind of approach for the sub-structure

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/Gman_vimb/M101CDN2%20Trailer/20120527_122947.jpg

My thought is a 1/2" plywood sub-frame (like above), skinned with 1/4" plywood glued up with some subfloor glue and held down with heavy duty staples. The top, flat portion, will have more structural support to allow me to attach a couple of smaller cross-bars for a roof rack of some sort - likely to accommodate a few jerry cans for longer trips. For exterior finishing I'll bondo all seams and sand them smooth, following that up with a few base coats of epoxy paint, and top coated with the same paint I'll be using on the exterior of the jeep. I don't really feel like engineering a one-off opening mechanism like what all the professionally built hard shell RTT's use, so I'm going to employ a more basic method: 4 vertical rods attached to studs on each corner, each rod will have short supporting rods extending from the middle of the vertical rods to the base at 45 degrees to stabilize the tent.

I want to have the main door be forward-facing, and pretty wide, with the ladder easily and quickly attached to my stinger and to the roof rack. This will allow me to also use the space in front of the tent on my roof rack (that's yet to be built) as a location for my stove/etc. when preparing food in more inclement weather. One theory that's still in the works is to have the doors be fold-down rigid that would secure to the inside of the roof for transit and simply fold down - I might ditch this idea in favor of a more traditional tent door/flap. To maintain some tension on the sides, since my vertical supports will be pretty rudimentary, is to attach some heavy-duty elastic band, both top and bottom of the fabric sides will attach to the shell using burly zippers for ease of removal and future tweaking. With either the solid door or soft door arrangement, I believe I can get away with minimal seams in the fabric (I hate sewing).

For the mattress I plan on doing a combo of high-density and low-density cushion foam. 1" of high- and 2-3" of low-density, about 2' wide each, wrapped in a lighter-weight ripstop nylon. I hoped to do an air mattress, but that would limit me to using standard mattress widths, which is either wider or narrower than I want to build this.

I need to think about this further, but I may decide to build in a small solar panel into the front to connect to a charging station in the jeep for recharging my camera's batteries when I'm not able to stop in a town to loiter in a coffee shop for a few hours.

[Popsgarage]

Sweet! Lookin' forward to this.