View Full Version : what to use to get to metal
ccbruin
December 14th, 2011, 06:31 PM
Going to paint the steering linkages and axles and diff covers. How do you guys recommend going after this? Wire wheel?
RidgeRunner
December 14th, 2011, 09:07 PM
Pretty much what I use. First I use a good de-greaser and pressure washer, then the wire wheel, then I usually wipe stuff down with laquer thinner before paint to take care of any oil/grease left. Sometimes the wire wheel won't cut the paint, in that case i've used 80 grit sandpaper or a grinder and flapper wheel.
Popsgarage
December 14th, 2011, 11:25 PM
If they're greasy I like to spray them down with oven cleaner and take them to the power washer at the car wash. Then do what everyone else has suggested.
Brody
December 15th, 2011, 07:43 AM
What everyone else has said. Oven cleaner rocks, BTW, but is nasty to use. The fumes are rough and it is a really good idea to protect your eyeballs and any exposed skin. Works really well, just be sure to get the 'works when cold' kind. Give it time to work, too. If you have a compressor, use that to blow out any small crevices.
Also pick up a three pack of those small cheapo cleaner brushes as they will come in handy. If you need to mask off anything underneath when you are painting, use tin foil as it will conform to fit around anything. Denatured alcohol (Lowe's or Depo paint section) is also a good degreaser that doesn't leave a residue, but doesn't work on the heavy stuff. You will also find that plane old gasoline will work better on heavier grease build ups than lacquer thinner will. A lot of times I will clean with gas, then use lacquer thinner...
Popsgarage
December 15th, 2011, 07:52 PM
The fumes are rough and it is a really good idea to protect your eyeballs and any exposed skin.
This is very true. Use it only in a well ventilated area.
Brody
December 16th, 2011, 05:54 AM
Oh....sad to say that most eco friendly/green products do not do nearly as good a job as the products that kill anything living in a 20 ft square area, eat flesh, blind you, give you instant lung cancer, etc.
Bunyon & Babe
December 18th, 2011, 08:57 PM
I'm looking at doing the same thing when it gets a little warmer,so this info is a help , thanks
ccbruin
January 10th, 2012, 12:58 PM
Cool! and what do you guys recommend for paint? primer?
GaryG
January 10th, 2012, 08:10 PM
Eastwood chassis black and also their rust encapsulator. I used that on the entire undercarriage of my chevelle. I used VHT epoxy all weather paint on my wheels and it's been bulletproof.
Popsgarage
January 10th, 2012, 09:13 PM
I've had good luck with POR15, but it is kind of pricey.
Meatloaf
February 3rd, 2012, 12:07 PM
If the paint that is already on there is in good shape, just hit it with a wire wheel or wire brush. If you want to take it down to the metal because of rust or chipping paint, a fap wheel on a grinder does wonders. It doesn't gouge the steel like a grinder would.
As far as paint, rustoleum or any similar product works great. I lived in PA my whole life, and there you need to get some damn good paint so the rust doesn't eat it away. Out here, its dry, and they don't salt the roads. Stuff doesn't rust as easy out here.
:2c:
-Kyle
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