Impact guns

[Patrolman]

In an effort to replace my busted leaf spring, I pulled out my air hose and impact gun. The impact has seen better days and has started to show some minor issues. I spent well over an hour trying to get the 4 nuts off the u-bolts. Finally got one of them off by hand with an 18" bar. The other 3 were broken loose with the bar, but the threads are still tight. The impact doesn't seem to do squat on the nuts. I got a deal on a brand new impact, and it is more ft/lbs so sprung for it. Brought it home, and same deal. No-go.

Personally, all the previous leaf spring u-bolts I have removed I did by hand. Air tools are relatively new to me. Anyone else ever had issues? I don't want to spend a couple more hours to remove 3 more nuts. That still doesn't get the spring off the frame even!

[Popsgarage]

Sounds like you might be in for a good time. I've never had a set of u-bolts come off that hard! PB blaster, WD40?????

[scout man]

wish I could help, but i have the same issues. My impacts are crap though. good for an average-tight bolt, especially with long threads cause its fast, but I very frequently come across bolts that I can get by hand, and not with the impact. Hell, I dont even pull the impact out that much anymore. I figure its just cause I need to get an expensive one though.

[Patrolman]

I dropped $100 on this one. The last one came free with the compressor and worked for 12 years. It isn't often I use the impact, but nothing like getting a good workout trying to bust these stupid things loose. I already applied plenty of WD40. They wouldn't even budge prior to that.

[Popsgarage]

Do you have a side grinder with a "fine wire" wheel. If you do, tighten the nuts back up, hit the threads with that, add some more WD and wrench away.

[Patrolman]

Unfortunately I don't. The other unfortunate part is that I don't have a garage either. No working on it for a few more days. This afternoon was bad enough.

[Popsgarage]

Where do you work. I'd be willing to loan you mine. Don't have the time to help you personally, but you're more than welcome to use the wheel and grinder!

[Patrolman]

My job is in DTC, and I live in Englewood. I might just have to buy a brush. Already have the side grinder. I was also reading up on air lines and such. I might need to go to a thicker hose. I have one, but never used it. Also need to make sure the compressor is putting out the right PSI. Best way is to measure psi at the end with a tire gauge or something. All things to do on my list now.

[Popsgarage]

Just make sure you buy a "fine" wire wheel, not the knotted wire wheel. You don't want to tear the threads up.

[Patrolman]

No joke. Will only make the process worse. Bad enough that I think I am going to be cutting off the bolts at the shackle and the frame. Probably easier to do and just go to grade 8 anyways.

[Hypoid]

Also need to make sure the compressor is putting out the right PSI.
They also work better when they are warm, and have a drop or two of oil in them. I usually set my regulator at the compressor.

Sometimes breaking a nut loose using PB Blaster and a wrench with a cheater is enough for the impact to finish. Sometimes I have to work penetrant above the nut I just loosened and tighten it again. If my fastener is that special, I'll heat the nut until it glows a dull red color, and work it off by hand until it stops turning, then heat it again to expand the nut.

If I have a replacement fastener in my toolbox, I'd sooner whack it with the gas ax.

[Popsgarage]

I'd sooner whack it with the gas ax.

And can I get an AMEN!!!

[Brody]

Shouldn't be that tight. What everyone else has mentioned: PB, wire wheel/brush, break the nut loose with a bar/socket then use the air. High Country has a huge assortment of U bolts in stock most of the time at around $8 each if you need them. About the best prices in town. If you are spring under, I have some square Taco U bolts set up for 4" blocks(so I don't know how much useuable thread there will be in a stock configuration), but these are brand new. I have a couple of the regular square U bolts, but not sure if I have a complete set..

Let me know. I'll double check what I have when I decide to freeze again in the garage...

[glacierpaul]

They also work better when they are warm, and have a drop or two of oil in them. I usually set my regulator at the compressor.

Sometimes breaking a nut loose using PB Blaster and a wrench with a cheater is enough for the impact to finish. Sometimes I have to work penetrant above the nut I just loosened and tighten it again. If my fastener is that special, I'll heat the nut until it glows a dull red color, and work it off by hand until it stops turning, then heat it again to expand the nut.

If I have a replacement fastener in my toolbox, I'd sooner whack it with the gas ax.
x2 on heating it up, have done this for decades with seized nuts and bolts and in plumbing situations too! Just remember it is hot!;)

[ColoJeeper]

Cut off ubolts and replace them. Ubolts are cheap and not worth the effort to fight with.

[Patrolman]

As Pete said, the u-bolts are "square" rather than round. It is a spring over, and the bolts go over the spring pack, meaning they have square tops. They are harder to find, but not leaving the option off the table.

What I did figure out is that I am using about 50" of hose, and I think 1 of the 2 sections may be 1/4". I had bought a 50 foot 1/2" hose some time ago, but never put connectors on it. I get the feeling the hose may be the restrictive factor. I have never used impact guns much, but getting too old to pound on hand tools, particularly in the cold.

The threads are soaked in WD40 now and didn't look too rusty. Will see what happens in the next day or two when I attack it again. The gun was warmed up as it had been inside. May try some heat on the threads. Will also put a couple more drops of oil in the gun.

[Hypoid]

PB-Blaster FTW.

I'd use plain old ATF before using WD-40 as a penetrating oil.

[Patrolman]

Also need to get some connectors for my 50 foot hose. I am going to start with regular Home Depot style, but may move up to something larger for more flow like these:
http://www.tptools.com/p/172,112_Hi-Flow-Coupler-Kit.html

[Patrolman]

The heat ended up doing the trick. Put the propane torch on it for a minute or two and the nuts came off pretty easy. Only one I didn't do that for the the front hanger bolt for the spring. It is mere inches from the fuel tank. Just easier to sawzall it out and replace it.

Once the wrench was turning easy enough, I also tried the impact gun. Learning some things here. It would rev up and turn the nut head a couple times. Then it would just sort of zonk out. Almost like a set of dead batteries in a flashlight. Leave it off several minutes, and when you turn it on it is bright for a moment then then dies out. To me, that would indicate reasonable PSI at the gun (showing 125 at the tank), but not enough volume. Either there is a blockage, or the hose isn't thick enough for the length. I have a pair of 25 footers hooked together. At least 1 is 1/4 inch and the other likely is too. Need to get the new hose setup and see if that resolves it. The increase diameter should result in 2-3x as much air volume. What a PITA to do this by hand in this weather!

[glacierpaul]

Heat seems to always work, but if it does a sawzall never fails:thumb: Your airtank check valve may be at play too. If there is any water/ice in the hoses this could be an issue too. Everything is a pain in the A$$ in cold weather!!!

[Patrolman]

Yeah, I didn't have issues before. Of course the spring didn't break until the cold weather. Something always seems to go wrong in December or January. Glad I got it out of the way.

[Hypoid]

A 3/8" hose can't hurt.

I run a 50 ft 3/8" hose at work and home for my 1/2" impacts. If I borrow a larger impact, I have to use a 1/2" hose.