Brody
May 27th, 2010, 10:14 AM
Came across some of this stuff looking for other information. At the rate I go though PB Blaster, I thought I would give some of these a shot:
Number 1:
Step 1
Grab a bottle of brake fluid and a bottle of transmission fluid and a good trigger stylehttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/2_bing.gif (http://www.ehow.com/how_5050669_make-penetrantlubricant-rusted-nuts-bolts.html#) oil pump can.
Step 2
Fill the oil can half full with brake fluid. Finish filling the oil can with transmission fluid. A 50/50 ratio of each is what you want.
Step 3
Swirl or shake the oil can to mix up your homemade lube and you are holding your answer to all those aggravating rusted and jammed nuts and bolts (http://www.ehow.com/how_5050669_make-penetrantlubricant-rusted-nuts-bolts.html#). Apply the mixture on the problem area and let it soak for a while. If by chance it still wont break loose, just apply heat with your propane torch and then break it loose with your wrench or ratchet.
Number 2:
Half mineral spirits,1/4 dexron,1/4 lard oil.
Iron Wolf http://www.smokstak.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Now that I have a minute. Rust is caused by a chemical reaction between iron and oxygen, so because the oxygen is added to the iron the combination takes up more volume then the iron alone. so if a part is rusted solid for a long time no amount of penetrating oil in the world for any length of time will ever penetrate the rust. The ideal penetrant needs to have very small molecules to sneak in between the OX and FE so any light oil will work better then heavy oil. Heat will expand the parts and sometimes allow enough room for the oil to get in. An electro. tank will sometimes break down enough rust to free up a part. When I take my parts out of the electro. tank I usually go streight to the press or puller and skip the oil. Score in the past year. Dan 21 parts 1. That one part was two iron pieces of an exhaust eystem which had been growing together in the heat fot over ninety years.
Number 3:
50/50 Acetone and ATF:
Did some searching around, and found these supposedly as the results of the
April 2007 Machinist's Workshop magazine comparison test.
Penetrating oil ..... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
> *Donno about Gibbs but some magazine recently ran a test of all available
> penetrants including "Kroil and "Blaster" . . Kroil was best but ALL were
> beaten by the homemade combination of 50-50 acetone and ATF. I mixed up a
> batch for all my buddies and we are happy with it but it WILL savage
> paint.*
Note: I shouldn't have to really post this little bit, but: You are dealing with highly flammable fluids here. You are dealing with fluids that have toxic fumes. You are expected to use the basic common sense necessary for dealing with fluids of this type. If you don't that that common sense or knowledge, this isn't for you...
Number 1:
Step 1
Grab a bottle of brake fluid and a bottle of transmission fluid and a good trigger stylehttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/2_bing.gif (http://www.ehow.com/how_5050669_make-penetrantlubricant-rusted-nuts-bolts.html#) oil pump can.
Step 2
Fill the oil can half full with brake fluid. Finish filling the oil can with transmission fluid. A 50/50 ratio of each is what you want.
Step 3
Swirl or shake the oil can to mix up your homemade lube and you are holding your answer to all those aggravating rusted and jammed nuts and bolts (http://www.ehow.com/how_5050669_make-penetrantlubricant-rusted-nuts-bolts.html#). Apply the mixture on the problem area and let it soak for a while. If by chance it still wont break loose, just apply heat with your propane torch and then break it loose with your wrench or ratchet.
Number 2:
Half mineral spirits,1/4 dexron,1/4 lard oil.
Iron Wolf http://www.smokstak.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Now that I have a minute. Rust is caused by a chemical reaction between iron and oxygen, so because the oxygen is added to the iron the combination takes up more volume then the iron alone. so if a part is rusted solid for a long time no amount of penetrating oil in the world for any length of time will ever penetrate the rust. The ideal penetrant needs to have very small molecules to sneak in between the OX and FE so any light oil will work better then heavy oil. Heat will expand the parts and sometimes allow enough room for the oil to get in. An electro. tank will sometimes break down enough rust to free up a part. When I take my parts out of the electro. tank I usually go streight to the press or puller and skip the oil. Score in the past year. Dan 21 parts 1. That one part was two iron pieces of an exhaust eystem which had been growing together in the heat fot over ninety years.
Number 3:
50/50 Acetone and ATF:
Did some searching around, and found these supposedly as the results of the
April 2007 Machinist's Workshop magazine comparison test.
Penetrating oil ..... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
> *Donno about Gibbs but some magazine recently ran a test of all available
> penetrants including "Kroil and "Blaster" . . Kroil was best but ALL were
> beaten by the homemade combination of 50-50 acetone and ATF. I mixed up a
> batch for all my buddies and we are happy with it but it WILL savage
> paint.*
Note: I shouldn't have to really post this little bit, but: You are dealing with highly flammable fluids here. You are dealing with fluids that have toxic fumes. You are expected to use the basic common sense necessary for dealing with fluids of this type. If you don't that that common sense or knowledge, this isn't for you...