94 Dodge Ram 3500 wobble issue

[Rocket Scientist]

Ive got a 1994 Dodge Ram 3500 reg cab 4x4 dually w/ a v-10 5 speed thats had a major front wheel wobble issue. It has the 2" level riser in it & when Im running at hwy speed (above 65 usually) If I hit a pothole with the front left wheel, it starts shuttering extremely & I have to slow down to about 45mph for it to stabilize. From what the wife told me after seeing it for herself this past weekend, the left front wheel shakes from left to right violently & seems to protrude outside of the wheelwell (not up & down as I thought it was doing) yet the right front stays true & rolling. My best guess is somehow the left (short shaft) is coming un-clipped from the diff & sliding outward. Ive had it up on jackstands & have checked all the suspension bars/bolts & everything seems to be tight. Shocks are newer as well as the stabilizer & the wheel has been re balanced. Yet it still happens & its definately a handful to get under control. On another forum (dodge) past problems pointed to the track bar, but that controls both wheels. Im jacking it back up this weekend & opening the front diff to get a better look inside & see if in fact the clip is broken or out all together. This truck has sentimental value to me & I would love any & all support to get a fix on this. Thanks!

[ColoJeeper]

If it was mine, I'd start by checking the wheel bearings and ball joints.

[Rick]

ditto on ball joints

[Brody]

What Don said.

Start by putting your hand against the hub after you have driven it a bit. If it is very warm, or worse, hot, then the wheel bearings aren't too happy and will need to be either replaced or repacked.

Jack the wheel off the ground and see what, if any, movement you can get from it. If you get movement, watch closely to see where the movement is coming from and what moves. If the wheel itself has the movement, then it is again probably the wheel bearings. If the wheel moves the whole spindle, then it is the ball joint, usually the lower one that is more of a PITA on Dodges.

You also test the axle when you have the wheel off the ground by getting a large screw driver or pry bar in the knuckle U joint and moving it in and out. A little play is OK, a lot isn't. It will be obvious what is a little and what is wrong. I would do this after removing the wheel, then again after removing the caliper. Also check the back lash on the front driveshaft by getting both wheels off the ground (jack stands, of course, be safe and all that..) and grab the drive shaft and turn it back and forth. There should be a little slop in this, but again, too much is going to be obvious. Also listen closely for any grinding noises coming from the diff or resistance. There should be relatively easy movement with relative being the key word. While both wheels are off the ground, and without knowing how the 4x is set up in that Dodge, turn one wheel, then the other, both in 4WD and out of 4WD. make sure that when you are in 4WD (assuming that you don't have a locker in the front) when you turn one wheel, the opposite side turns in the oopsite direction. That will at least let you know that your diff is more or less happy.

I would do this before tearing into the diff as this keeps you more on the outside of the rig and is a bit easier to do. In order to get the axle out, you will end up doing a lot of this work anyway, but start with the easier crap...

Hope this helps. People with more knowledge than I may well chime in with better suggestions, but this is how I would start diagnosing it on my heap...

[ColoJeeper]

With the tire off the ground, shake top to bottom and then side to side. Top to bottom movement usually indicates ball joint problems and side to side indicates wheel bearing issues.

[Rocket Scientist]

Got it jacked up last night & found a defective left lower ball joint. Any ideas where I could get them changed? Looks like a press would be best & I dont have one, Just a BFH. Idea is to have all of them changed now rather than just one. Never done a set on a truck with a solid axle before either, looks a bit challenging. Calling NAPA today for parts & will check Big O tires for install prices. Let me know if there are any shops in the immediate Denver metro that could help me out. Thanks all!

[ColoJeeper]

You can borrow a ball joint press from most auto part stores or you can purchase one from Harbor Freight fairly cheap.

[Brody]

Hey Jeff

Since you are up north of town, you might call Scotty at Arvada Auto Tech for a quote. Tell him that Peter Brody suggested that you call. You are roughly 30 minutes from him. He is a good guy that does good work.

5395 MARSHALL STREET
ARVADA CO 80002
303-420-5106
ARVADAAUTOTECH@COMCAST.NET

[Rick]

Jeff, I also have a friend who owns a shop called Auto Motive, His name is Mike @ 303)948-4473. He is located at Belleview and Simms just off C-470. Does awesome work and is reasonable. Rick

[Rocket Scientist]

Hey Pete! Tell LaDawn I said HI! Called Scotty & he sounds like an awesome guy & he offers a great warranty but he's pretty expensive (highest Ive found) @ $600 each side uppers & lowers. Rick, I called Mike & he was actually the most reasonable. Using "my" new NAPA premium joints it was $198 labor per side. He also believes there may be a track bar issue (bent or out of adjustment) as well. Man Id love to do all 4 joints but right now its just not in the budget. I may have to resort to good old fashion blood sweat & tears & just rent a press myself. Napa wants $48 & $75 (premium uppers & lowers) & I may need to replace the wheel bearings as well being how bad it has acted in the past. So Ill need the funds to do that also. Ive got 2 trucks so 1 can be down for a while as I walk away from it to collect myself & go at it again. Eh, I learn something new everyday.

[Rick]

like I said he is good and also reasonable but that evil thing called money always causes problems. I just threw him out there cause I believe word of mouth is the best especially in a group like this where there is a ton of knowledge.

[Brody]

I just threw him out there cause I believe word of mouth is the best especially in a group like this where there is a ton of knowledge.

About the only thing keeping the world going around right now!

Hey to you, too, Jeff! Don't be such a stranger! Hope things are well with you guys. LaDawn says to say "Hi!", too.

[Popsgarage]

X2 on renting a press and doing it yourself!

[Rocket Scientist]

Well, I got the spindles out but the rental press was a joke. Calling around to get quotes on pressing the old ones out & new ones in. Think I destroyed a rotor in the process too. Right side hub was frozen in the spindle & had to BFH it out. I have another question now? My 4wd has been going in & out on its own. I shift the transfer case into 4 HI & the light comes on on the dash (& stays on) but when I accelerate the front diff seems to pop in & out (gear on gear noise). My thoughts are the junk actuator (vacuume) is failing & I plan to put a posi-lok cable on it instead. I opened it all up & it looks OK in there (no shavings). Is there any concern outside of the actuator I should be worried about?

[Brody]

If it is a vacuum actuated 4WD set up, then my immediate thought it that you have a vacuum leak, especially of you have the hard plastic lines. These develop small cracks that are very hard to see. You may also simply have a line off of a rubber vacuum fitting or the fitting itself may have come loose. Going to a manual cable shift is a real good thing to do especially in Colorado where we have freezing/snow/melt almost daily. Jeeps are plagued with vacuum problems like this on the 4WD. The Cherokee I had when I was living in the foothills gave me problems all the time. I had to make sure it was in 4WD before parking it at night because it would freeze up and not allow me to put it into 4WD in the morning. I finally went to a cable actuated lever and couldn't have been happier.

Doing the ball joints on the Dodges suck...I refuse to even try anymore....Good luck with that "little" project, Jeff.

Still love your avatar, BTW. It's cute....almost as bad as the pink toy Jeep avatar that Jock saddled someone else with....

[Rocket Scientist]

Cute. Great. Anyway, I was planning on just plugging those vaccume lines down low, anybody know where they originate? Id like to block them there instead. I also noticed another post on here about how the vents change or fan slows under acceleration. Ive had this issue for a while too. Almost no heat or air unless I let off. Suspect another vac leak on this too? Hints? BTW, little jobs done youself save more money for MODS! LOL!!

[Popsgarage]

Just a little side note. The full size newer Dodges have a steering set up almost identical the Jeep YJ, TJ, LJ, XJ,and ZJ, only bigger so you look for the same "death wobble" culprits.

[Rocket Scientist]

I ordered the posi-lok from Summit Racing yesterday. I cant seem to find the right socket to take off the spindle nut to replace the rotor though. Ive been to 3 different parts stores & the biggest hex socket I can find is a 38mm & its too small. The 4wd notched spindle sockets are all too big. I measured the hex on the nut & its 1 3/4". Any idea of what I need? & where to find it? :confused:

[Popsgarage]

I've got a 3/4" ratchet and socket set you can borrow if you don't mind coming to Arvada to pick it up. 1" to 3" I believe.

[Rocket Scientist]

I got my posi-lok yesterday & learned 2 things. 1... When you open the box, take care, the coiled up cable in there will in fact spring out & hit you in the junk. 2... at 40 years old I can still scream like a little girl. (much to my wifes laughing).

[Chris]

Ouch! I'm pretty sure everyone will keep this in mind in the future! :lmao:

[Popsgarage]

the coiled up cable in there will in fact spring out & hit you in the junk.

Gotta be careful with those coiled up cables!!!:lmao::lmao::lmao:

[Rick]

:eek::mad::blah::thumb:

[Rocket Scientist]

Got it all back together yesterday. All went well & the LOK seems to be working just fine outside of the 4WD switch. Ive got the 2 wire connector & the instructions state to cut off the factory plug & crimp on the new connectors & wire them to the 2 posts, polarity doesnt matter, yet the dash light stays on constantly when I switch the wires or not. Ideas? Im also picking up some diff lube tonight, any idea what weight to use & what the cap is on a dana 44?

[Popsgarage]

Should be no more than 2 pints of 80W/90.

[Brody]

Hmmmm....I got anywhere from 1.75(quarts) for an regular Dana 44 open to 1.3 with a locker. It depends on what diff cover you have on it, too. Like I said in the other Dana 44 fluid thread, I buy the diff oil in 5 gallon pails, so I just drain and fill to the fill plug with a pump and don't have to deal with quarts....

[Rocket Scientist]

When I drained it into the pan, I poured the old into a gallon jug & it was just shy of 1 gallon. Looked it up at Advanced last night & the Dana 44 called for 5+ quarts & that was the least amount of all the different axles. I settled with 75w-90 Mobil 1 synthetic. I also thought as a rule of thumb, the fill hole in the diff was used as the level check? Put it in until it starts coming out of the hole. Am I wrong here?

[Brody]

Nope. Just fill it up to the point where the oil starts to run out the fill hole. However much it takes to get to that point is what is needed, contrary to any "quantities" posted on the internet. Oil comes out the fill hole, that is what you needed to fill it.

[Popsgarage]

Don't ask me what I was thinking on that one...

[Brody]

I won't mainly because I understand....:lmao::lmao:

[Rocket Scientist]

Test drive went well. Feel much tighter up front & drives straight again. May need an alignment. But....the clunking noise is still there just not as much. Turns out the transfer case & diff lock were both making noise. The posi-lok works like a charm. The transfer case is making a popping noise under strain. Everytime I add power to it it does this, almost like its got a sheared spline tooth or really worn bushing. Ive noticed more gear noise from the tranny (5-speed) at hwy speed recently, but the popping only happens in 4wd (low or hi). So, another project insues. Anybody know much about the 5-speed-transfer case on this thing? I wont be tearing into it anytime soon, so Im wondering, is it rebuildable, serviceable by a novice like myself?

[ColoJeeper]

Clunking sound from tcase when in 4wd...... are all the mounting bolts tight on the tcase, and what shape are the bushings in. Either being loose or worn will cause a clunking sound in 4wd.

[Popsgarage]

Trans is probably an NV4500, possibly an NV3500, but not likely. The transfer case is probably one of 4. NV231, NV231HD, NV241 or the NV241HD. The transfer case is really pretty simple. You should be able to take that one on yourself. The NV4500 had issues with the 5th gear syncro and reverse gear syncro. I've got the GM version sitting in the garage waiting on funds to replace 3rd gear and the related syncro. Bill at Englewood Driveshaft told me that Steve's Transmission would be the place to take it for an overhaul.

[Rocket Scientist]

ITS BAAACK!!! The left front went crazy on me again on Sunday coming home from Arvada. New ball joints upper & lower. This was the worst one ever. Almost put me in the wall. I have noticed that the left front hub/bearing was "much" warmer than the right front, & theres alot of play (always has been) in the steering. Seems alot of it is in the steering box to the pitman arm but the tie rods seem tight but floppy too. Just a really chitty set-up IMO. My belief is that from the time it starts (shaking) it feels like its primarily from the left front wheel. It shook so bad it snapped a motorcycle strap I had tied to an atv in the bed! This things a death trap & selling it (wifes idea) is NOT my idea of fixing the problem, or putting someone else in harms way. My idea from here is to replace the left front hub, all the tie rod ends, get the $50 steering column bushing (takes care of the slop in the column) & possibly replace the steering box. Ideas?? outside of getting full coverage & setting it on fire?? JK!

[Popsgarage]

Make damn sure all the bushings in the control arms are tight and in good shape, make sure the track bar bracket is tight and in good shape, and check both ends of the track bar for wear. Upper should be a tie rod end style and the lower should be a factory bushing.

[Rick]

make sure the track bar bracket is tight and in good shape, and check both ends of the track bar for wear. Upper should be a tie rod end style and the lower should be a factory bushing.
my bet

[Popsgarage]

Borgsen steering shaft instead of the steering bushing.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRG-000945/

Bully Dog steering box brace.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BDD-1032004/

Energy Suspension poly upper and lower bushing set for 4WD.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-5-3120G/

Here are a couple of examples of track bars for your truck. If you can, install one from a diesel because they were generally much heavier duty.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOG-DS1413/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BDD-1032011-F/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SJA-DTBA27/

[Rocket Scientist]

Im taking it off the road this Thursday & Im going over the whole front suspension with a fine tooth comb. Im going to replace tie-rods, bushings, & both hubs definately. Its not needed for a while now so I can take my time replacing parts between paychecks, & do it right. Getting the big diesel back on the road in its place. There is some hangup in the left front hub, feels much warmer (hotter) than the right front. So it could be bouncing & locking in mid spin causing this too. UH....all I see are dollar signs & an upset wife.

[Popsgarage]

UH....all I see are dollar signs & an upset wife.

Good luck on it. Been there, done that!!!

[Rick]

x2 gotta keep her happy or no one's happy!!!!!!

[Rocket Scientist]

I am making her happy by taking it off the road & putting the cover on it for a while..LOL.