Jeep LJ drive shaft

[Hwkscr]

I'm running an 05 LJ with a 4' lift. The Jeep had a 1" t-case drop, but i hated the way it looked and drug. i took it off and went back to stock height. Any LJ owners on here to the same. from my understanding the Rubicon LJ can get by with out doing a t-case drop or cv drive shaft. any experiences?

[Brody]

Not too sure what your question is...

[mattzj98]

A rubicon lj will have a slip yoke eliminator alreadu built in, no need to worry about driveshaft falling off. You should have Bill at Englewood Driveshafts simply extend it (cheap) and you will be ok, OR the expensive route, SYE and Double Cardan shaft

[Squshiee1]

i think he is asking if it will be necessary for him to drop the tcase and the drive shafts down, with a 4" lift.

[Java]

You just have to take them out and try it. I have 2.5" with no t-case drop and the slip yoke intact... you don't have one, so that's moot. You won't know until you drive it with the t-case spacers out. I've read about guys adding washers in place of the spacers a few at a time until the vibrations stopped. I used 4 of my t-case spacers to raise the rear brake light, between that and my 1" body lift I can fit a 33x9.50 spare cleanly, FWIW.

[Hwkscr]

Well I've been driving with out the t case drop for a few Weeks with out any vibe issues. My main concern is going to be off road. Are there any issues of binding when flex comes into play?

[Aaron]

If you have an SYE then you should be fine. An LJ really doesn't even need one because the drive shafts are longer. At least thats what I've heard.

[Java]

the problem (if there is one) is about the amount the shaft can compress and extend, ie. the length of the splines on your shaft (or the length of the slip yoke on mine). I don't think you'll have any concerns on the compression side, but on full flex the shaft can come apart at the splines (or the slip yoke pops out of the t-case). Jack up your rig, support the frame, take off the tires and let the axle drop as far as it can. if I understand it correctly, you should have a minimum of 1" of left over splines still connected (or not compressed if you're checking up travel). You should be able to find the specs on the shaft spline length online or from a shop, then measure yours.

[Java]

forgot to say you can spin the axle too and see if the shaft is going to bind when it's extended. they make degree bolts for the axles if you need to adjust just the angle.

[tonkatoy]

The drive shaft on your Jeep has 3 inchs of spline travel. In most cases, with a 4 inch lift you don't have to lengthen the drive shaft with the drop kit. You can do the same lift to 10 Jeeps one will be the problem child. It is best to make sure that you have 2 inches of spline contact when the Jeep is on all four in running condition.

[otisdog]

You're not having any vibe problems on the street I think I'd just go with it and keep and eye on it for a while when flexing on the trails.You may want to mark it so that if it does happen to come apart on the trail you can get it back together exactly as it was for balance purposes.
Jim

[Java]

X10 what Jim said, that's a GREAT idea!!

[Hwkscr]

Thanks guys. Ill keep an eye on it for a bit and see how things go on the trail.

[jesse05lj]

I run a 4" Teraflex long arm with the 1" lowering kit on my 2005 LJ that I will get rid of as soon as I get the money for a SYE and drive shaft. it does fine on the trail, but hate the drive shaft vibration on the road.

[Jeepfreak]

I have never had any issues with my 05 Rubi LJ Ive had it off road plenty with my 4" Fabtech lift and towed another jeep about 600 miles with now vibe at any time.

[jesse05lj]

The vibration is very slight but it bothers me. not big deal.

[Hwkscr]

A new development in the past two weeks is some sort of rubbing/squeaking noise coming for the rear of the Jeep. It seems to have developed A) after i took off the t-case drop or B) after i got stuck in the mud. I put the rear axle of the Jeep up on jack stands and rotated the tires and could hear a slight rubbing noise on the driver's side rear brake. I took it in and it looked at, the rear pads were worn so i had them replaced and the rotors turned. I am still hearing the same noise when driving. Anything else I should look at?

UPDATE...

After some further investigation, i was able to determine that the noise is coming from the front drive shaft where the output shaft exits the t-case. I sprayed a little lube on it and the noise stopped. However, when test driving it i heard a clicking noise in 4-hi when the accelerator was applied (forward and reverse). Do you think the U-joint in the front is binding? Should I just put the t-case drop back on?

[tonkatoy]

It sounds like the front drive shaft CV is going out, and needs to be re-built. The current drive shaft is built non-greaseable, I build a unit that can be greased. Having a greaseable style drive shaft that can be maintained will last longer. Give me a call and can set up a time to get it checked out and other options you can do with it. 303-781-0554 bills englewood driveshaft

[Hwkscr]

Thanks Bill,
What is about the cost to do something like that?