CodeXJ
March 6th, 2012, 11:32 PM
This is a good write-up I found on building a HD transfer case without having to fully buy a transfer case!!
Quick and dirty parts list to build a junkyard 231HD. I've seen a bit of conflicting information on this and other forums, so I will share what I have learned in piecing mine together. First off, there is no "231HD" case from any Jeep or Dodge vehicle that is simply plug and play. There may be other varyiations to this, but below is what I know will work for your WJ. You can either piece it together yourself, or buy a pre-made, brand new case from JB conversions that includes the items listed below:
1. 231D out of a '98 - '01 Dodge 1500 pickup. This will include the 1.25" wide chain (231J's (jeep models) are 1"). This case will also include the updated and stronger aluminum shift forks. Prices vary anywhere from $150+ depending on your region. Check www.car-parts.com (http://www.car-parts.com/).
2. Source a 6 pinion planetary from a late 90's model dodge transfer case (i.e. 241D, 241DHD). Late model is critical so the gear cut will match. The 231D (and 231J's) includes a 3 pinion planetary that is rated at 600 ft/lbs torque. The 6 pinion is rated at 1,400 ft/lbs torque. I found several used on eBay varying in price from $75+. JB conversions can get you a new one for $200. I opted for used.
3. HD Slip yoke eliminator. JB conversions or Advance Adapters is your best bet here. The 231J/D SYE is the same. Includes a 32 spline output shaft, which nets you an increase of 54% torque capacity over stock output shaft. Can go super shorty or regular. For long wheelbase WJ's, there really is no reason to go super shorty. Regular SYE will run you $200. I opted for JB due to a couple of minor advantages that I perceived over AA. Both are very good, however.
4. Swap your input shaft over from your 242/247 and it will match perfectly to your trans.
5. Miscellanous:
a) No 231 bezel swaps over so you'll need to either do nothing or ghetto-fab some labels. The 231HD shift pattern is opposite from that of a 231J, as follows: 4L - N - 2 - 4PT.
b) You may have to modify the linkage arm, depending on your donor case -- there are a few good threads on this. Note: you do NOT have to modify the linkage if you swap the linkage from your 242. A 231J or 247 linkage will not work. See pic of 242 linkage arm, which is direct swap.
c) You will also need a 1 1/4" freeze plug to plug the speedo port, which is a few dollars at any local parts store (speedo port is nice b/c if you consider an axle swap down the road, you can always run speedo off the transfer case and not the axles). Advance Adapters offers a billett plug with the 231j style horeshoe retainer. I opted for this over the freeze plug, which apparently AA was seeing some issues leakage-wise. See pic of billet plug/retainer.
d) Some 231d's use a vacuum switch for the dash indicator light. The 242 switch is a direct swap, but the detent is longer so the dash light is not accurate. Either leave it alone (I think you should know whether or not you're in 4wd or not , or you can buy a 231J 4wd switch and swap it in by splicing the wire to the new plug. Threads are all the same.
e) Alternatively, you may be able to swap in a Dodge 241 (basically a 231HD) which has 6 pinion planetary, the wide chain, etc.., but the 241 SYE kits are much more pricey. Plus, I am not 100% sure if the input shafts are a direct swap.
Total should run you about $500 in parts. JB's 231HD is $1,275.
XJ Junkyard lifting:
There is a very fast and easy way to lift an XJ without going bust.
First let's do some little digging!
Xj has coils in front, leafs in the rear.
To get an added 2-4" (results may vary) You'll need to look for a few different types of coil springs from the junkyard. The coil spring that yield the most lift, but harshest ride would be for F-150 front coil springs. They are VERY stiff springs but will give you closer to 4." The next best options would be front coil springs of a ZJ grand cherokee which will net 2" lift for 4" you'd need spacers.. Though with just Zj coils you wouldn't need to mess around with anything else in the front end.
There is also the ZJ tie rod (v8 only) tie rod swap that I've done a write-up before on, and seeing another person who has done the swap! They are solid steel tie rods and do not require modification to fit into the front of TJ's or Xj's You can buy every part new, and I mean every part, from auto parts store for a little more then $200..
Next the gear box!! You could buy this from an auto parts store if you'd like, or not and get it from junkyard as long as it works. Basically its very straight forward!!! Get the power steering gear box for a 1999 Dodge Durango, 1998 as well as long as it's not the plow edition! The mounting and everything is identical except that the durango one is stronger! (You can tell that anything cherokee had the larger vehicles had BETTER, but still swap into the cherokee making little rig a beast rig for cheap!!
Next: With added lift you may need a rear driveshaft, but are not ready for a slip yoke eliminator??? You are going back to the junkyard to pick yourself up a rear drive shaft. The t-cases i nthe cherokees had the same spline output shaft as the ZJ's making it fairly easy to use. this will cost $150 to have re-lengthened to fit properly because the zj driveshaft may be longer then needed. Easier to shorten then lengthen. (Note: this option is not avaiable for you if your doing the 231HD transfer case as the spline output is 32 splines.)
Now to the rear!! This one can be used from many vehicle's but I'm going to give you the basic vehicle to look for. The Chevy S-10 Blazer: Now when you use these leaves you can do it one of two ways! If you want to use the overload spring then your ride will be harsher, but removing it will give you more flex and a smoother ride. What you'll do is take the entire packs out of an S-10 blazer and cut the eyes off each end. Then remove your leaf packs from your XJ. From here you will remove every leaf spring EXCEPT the main leaf with the eyes. You will take the S-10 leaf pack and put with the main leaf of the XJ and bolt together. This will get you 2-4" of lift in the rear depending on how badly worn the S-10 leaves are!
Changing Chrysler 8.25 Drum brakes into Disc brake conversion!!
Vehicle: 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport
Axle: Chrysler 8.25
I hate drum brakes and found there are a few different ways to change the rear brakes to disc brakes on the XJ. I found you can swap any rear discs from a 1994-1998 GRAND Cherokee with little modification.
Parts needed:
94-98 GRAND Cherokee Rear Disc Brakes and proportioning valve
Diff Fluid
Brake Fluid
RTV Sealant
Dremel with grinding stone
Step 1:Acquire all the parts needed from a Grand Cherokee, years 1994-1998. Calipers, Backing Plate, Soft lines, all the hardware.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28868-zj-hardware.jpg
Step 2: Jack up your Cherokee and put it on jack stands.
Step 3:Remove Differential cover to drain the fluid. Be sure to remove only the lower bolts first to drain the fluid easier and so it doesn’t get every where. (13MM)
Step 4: Remove pinion shaft bolt (8MM). Once this is done you can push both of the axles in, causing the C-clips to fall off the axles. Then pull both axles out.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28874-img-0288.jpg
Step 5: Remove all the drum hardware from the axle. Leaving only the 4 studs for the backing plate.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28872-rear-drums.jpg http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28873-all-gone.jpg
Step 6: Now you will need to take the ZJ backing plate and grind down the center to fit the axle. I used my dremel with a grinding stone and it worked just fine.
-I went ahead and change the 4 studs as they were a little rusty and old. I used grade 8 3-8/16 x 1 ½ bolts with lock washers and new nuts. Just use a hammer to pound out the old studs. I would recommend this just to make the install a little easier.
-I also went ahead and change the axle seals. Use a flat head or pry bar and pull the old seal out. And I used a rubber mallet to put the new seal in. Be sure to hit the seal in a circle so it goes in evenly.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28876-img-0299.jpg http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28877-img-0301.jpg
Step 7:Install ZJ backing plate
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28881-img-0296.jpg
Step 8: Install parking brake assembly. Retaining clips then bottom spring/ adjuster then E-brake cable pivot then top spring
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28882-img-0309.jpg
Step 9:Install axles. Install c-clips and pinion shaft bolt. Be sure to clean the differential with brake cleaner before reinstalling.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28883-img-0312.jpg
Step 10:Install Rotors
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28884-img-0313.jpg
Step 11: Install Calipers. You will have to reroute the brake hard line to fit with the soft line.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28886-img-0315.jpg
Step 12: Install brake cables. I went ahead and bought new cables from Napa. Part numbers: 95969 and 95963. You can either use the stock cables form the XJ or ZJ but modifications will be needed. I didn't get any pictures of this.
Step 13: Install Proportioning valve
Here are two excellent write ups as on how to change out the Proportioning valve. You can either change the whole unit or just the internals.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoZJvalve.htm
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoPvalve.htm
Step 14: Install differential cover. Now is the time to paint it if you like.
Step 15: Bleed brakes/ adjust brake cable.
Finished product
Over all it is not a hard modification/install. Basic tools were needed. I would recommend. Less body roll when breaking and no more clunks after releasing the brakes from a stop.
(this is from cherokeeforum.com and I thought he had a very beauitul write up on the conversion! This is also the cheapest way to do the conversion!)
AX-15 to NV3550 Swap!!!
(This is another beautiful write-up that expalins the swap very nicely!!)
92 AX15 (with Internal Slave) to 04 NV3550 (with external slave) swap
My 92 YJ came from the factory with the 4.0 HO and the 5 speed AX15. This setup was plauged from the begining. I had paid 2 times to have the AX15 rebuilt in my YJ. I also had never been billed for, nor had I been asked if I had wanted to replace
the clutch or the leak prone internal slave cylinder. After 12,000 hard miles on my YJ the reverse gear finally snapped for
the last time. I was also have a lot of noise coming from the tranny when ever I put it in reverse, and a loud whine while
at 70 mph. I decided I was going to get a new clutch and slave clyinder.
So after I had driven around a jeep with a NV3550, and after reading many many different boards the options were soon
becoming limited as to what to do with my YJ. I dont wheel often enough to merit the NV4500 and another AX15 was almost as much as getting mine rebuilt. I got quotes from 700 to 1400 to have my AX15 rebuilt. I surfed on EBAy for about 3 months
looking for a good price on a NV3550. Soon enough a guy out of MN started selling brand new NV3550 on the Bay for like 1100.
I though this was a pretty good price but money was tight so I just held on. Soon enough I saw an auction for a brand new
NV3550 and I won it for 770 shipped to my door. This tranny was brand new it had never been installed in anything.
I soon began collecting parts and again reading about doing my swap. Here is a list of what parts I aquired and how I
aquired them.
1. NV3550 : Ebay : 770.00
2. 98 TJ AX15 Bellousing : Ebay : 45.00 local junkyard wanted 70 bucks
3. clutch fork : Dealer: 14.00 : Part # same as 97 and up
4. pivot ball : Dealer: 7.00 : Part # same as 97 and up
5. pivot ball spring : Dealer: 4.00 : Part # same as 97 and up
6. Clutch Kit (94-01 YJ/TJ) : Ebay : 140.00 : shipped http://www.clutchcityonline.com/
a. Clutch
b. pressure plate
c. Throwout bearing
d. pilot bushing
7. Slave Cylinder Retrofit : AA : 140.00 : Part #716340
a. Slave Cylinder : included in above
b. SS Braded line : included in above
c. Various Fittings : included in above
8. T-case shifter/bracket : AA : 40.00 : Part #715545A
A. Put the tranny in 1st gear and the t-case in 2WD. Remove AX15 and keep all hardware. Have your flywheel turned if need
be. Remove pilot bushing with the old grease trick. You must put grease into the pilot bushing hole and then pound in a
piece of wood/steel that is the exact same size as the pilot busihing, after you get it in refill it with grease and do it
agan. It will take a while but it does work and it is very messy. More than just the pilot bushing will come out when you
do this. The pilot bushing is in a holder and this will be hydrolicly pushed out as well. Pound out the old pilot bushing
with a 9/16" socket on the top and a 7/8" socket on the bottom. Remember what side was in and what side was out. Insert the new pilot bushing with the colored seal facing the tranmission side.
B. Bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel loosly and then install the clutch alighment tool. Get it in straight then
torque it to the correct amount.
C. Bolt the tranny up to the bellhousing. All of the orignal bolts from the AX15 went directly into the new tranny. It was
all very straightforward. I pressure washed my new/used bellhousing. I also powerwashed the T-case and bolted it to the
NV3550. Make sure that you also bolt the T-case shifter/bracket onto the t-case. I did mine later because I did not know I
was going to need one of these and it was a royal pain. I put them both up in at the same time because I had a buddy. At
this point I also removed the shifter tower from the NV3550 and replaced it with a piece of cardboard and re-installed bolts
onto the top of the tranny. I also bolted the lower tranny bracket onto the bottom of the NV3550. Again a direct bolt in.
Make sure that the new bellhousing and your motor do not have guide pins installed on both the motor side and the tranny
side. Mine had them on both sides and I did not notice it till I had the tranny almost all the way in.
: The first thing I noticed was the NV3550 was a sealed unit and the AX15 didnt seem to be. Meaning no gasket between t-case and tranny. I am not sure if the jerk that rebuilt the AX15 just did it wrong or not. The length was almost exactly
identical the t-case bolted up at the right angle, dont let anyone tell you that new trannies are clocked different
than older ones. The only ones to be clocked different were the dana 300s.
D. Put the tranny up in and install the bellhousing to motor bolts. You will notice that two of your bolts that are located
at the 3:00 and 9:00 position on the transmission are too long. I simply went to my local hardware store and got shorter
ones that were grade 8. Install the starter while the tranny is still supported with jack and jack stands. Then I installed
the skid plate and bolted the tranny mount to the skid plate. You will have to juggle the tranny back and forth to get it to
drop down into the holes in the skid plate. I also powerwashed my skid plate cause it was all covered in oil from the bad
seal between the AX15 and the NP231.
E. Take shifter assembly from AX15 and find a grinder. You will notice that the new T-case shifter bracket does not have
any guides installed on it. You will need to grind off the rivits holding on the guides on your old shifter assembly
carefully and bolt/pop rivit it to the top of the new t-case shifter. Dont let this overwhelm you it is only two pop rivets
holding it on and it comes of in like 1 minute with the help of a grinder.
F. Dont let that grinder get too far away, you will now need to make an adjustment to the linkage. The linkage is about 7
inches long and it has about 1.5 inches of adjustablity. You will need to grind down the linkage so that it has about 3-4
inches of adjustability. This was the longest part of the swap, I had a old slow grinder and it took about 25 minutes of
grinding it down, rotating it so the adjuster assembly could slide back and forth. I have never used a grinder for that long
in my life and I was able to do a pretty good job of it. Take your time and go slow.
G. After the shifter is bolted onto the new bracket place it in the 4wd High position. Bolt the lower linkage to the t-case
and snap the adjuster assembly onto the bottom of the shifter assembly. Now to adjust it, shift the lever into the 2wd
position. Then tighten the 5/16" bolt onto the newly grinded linkage. Now shift it into all the different ranges making
sure that you have all the ranges. Mine worked the first time and I think I was lucky.
H. Reverse Lights: I was unable to find the correct plug in for mine it would hook up but it wouldnt stay connected. I
rigged up a toggle switch temporarily to pass inpection.
I. Hook up the driveshafts, now is a great time to replace the universal joints, I did this and greased everything up
nicely. Remember to top off your fluids and retourqe everything.
J. I then unbolted the 4 bolts holding the cardboard on and replaced the shifter tower. Now I am faced with the problem of
locating a shifter that will work correctly, I think I am going to cut the old shifter off at the bottom knuckle and weld a
piece of flat stock onto it. Drill two holes and call it good.
LASTLY!! The jeep cherokee INTAKE MANIFOLD!!!!
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoIntakeManifold1.htm Jeep in 1999 and 200 used a rainbow shapped intake manifold which supplied air quicker to the cylinder improving torque! But also adds to more, maybe, out of the pocket spending which may not be in your immediate acces, thus this tip is last, and didn't want to make this post to long.
On a side note: the cherokee uses a PH16 oil filter, a PH8A filter can be used in place of the PH16 which can hold more crud; Hyper lube helps to quiet the 4.0L motor as well.
These are the cheapest ways to build an unbelievable cherokee XJ without having to poor money into the aftermarket world!!! Hope this helps anyone looking to build up their cherokee cheap, and I will also be doing these things to my own!!!! :thumb: Any other questions feel free to ask, I'm absolutely in love with the Cherokee XJ's!!!
Quick and dirty parts list to build a junkyard 231HD. I've seen a bit of conflicting information on this and other forums, so I will share what I have learned in piecing mine together. First off, there is no "231HD" case from any Jeep or Dodge vehicle that is simply plug and play. There may be other varyiations to this, but below is what I know will work for your WJ. You can either piece it together yourself, or buy a pre-made, brand new case from JB conversions that includes the items listed below:
1. 231D out of a '98 - '01 Dodge 1500 pickup. This will include the 1.25" wide chain (231J's (jeep models) are 1"). This case will also include the updated and stronger aluminum shift forks. Prices vary anywhere from $150+ depending on your region. Check www.car-parts.com (http://www.car-parts.com/).
2. Source a 6 pinion planetary from a late 90's model dodge transfer case (i.e. 241D, 241DHD). Late model is critical so the gear cut will match. The 231D (and 231J's) includes a 3 pinion planetary that is rated at 600 ft/lbs torque. The 6 pinion is rated at 1,400 ft/lbs torque. I found several used on eBay varying in price from $75+. JB conversions can get you a new one for $200. I opted for used.
3. HD Slip yoke eliminator. JB conversions or Advance Adapters is your best bet here. The 231J/D SYE is the same. Includes a 32 spline output shaft, which nets you an increase of 54% torque capacity over stock output shaft. Can go super shorty or regular. For long wheelbase WJ's, there really is no reason to go super shorty. Regular SYE will run you $200. I opted for JB due to a couple of minor advantages that I perceived over AA. Both are very good, however.
4. Swap your input shaft over from your 242/247 and it will match perfectly to your trans.
5. Miscellanous:
a) No 231 bezel swaps over so you'll need to either do nothing or ghetto-fab some labels. The 231HD shift pattern is opposite from that of a 231J, as follows: 4L - N - 2 - 4PT.
b) You may have to modify the linkage arm, depending on your donor case -- there are a few good threads on this. Note: you do NOT have to modify the linkage if you swap the linkage from your 242. A 231J or 247 linkage will not work. See pic of 242 linkage arm, which is direct swap.
c) You will also need a 1 1/4" freeze plug to plug the speedo port, which is a few dollars at any local parts store (speedo port is nice b/c if you consider an axle swap down the road, you can always run speedo off the transfer case and not the axles). Advance Adapters offers a billett plug with the 231j style horeshoe retainer. I opted for this over the freeze plug, which apparently AA was seeing some issues leakage-wise. See pic of billet plug/retainer.
d) Some 231d's use a vacuum switch for the dash indicator light. The 242 switch is a direct swap, but the detent is longer so the dash light is not accurate. Either leave it alone (I think you should know whether or not you're in 4wd or not , or you can buy a 231J 4wd switch and swap it in by splicing the wire to the new plug. Threads are all the same.
e) Alternatively, you may be able to swap in a Dodge 241 (basically a 231HD) which has 6 pinion planetary, the wide chain, etc.., but the 241 SYE kits are much more pricey. Plus, I am not 100% sure if the input shafts are a direct swap.
Total should run you about $500 in parts. JB's 231HD is $1,275.
XJ Junkyard lifting:
There is a very fast and easy way to lift an XJ without going bust.
First let's do some little digging!
Xj has coils in front, leafs in the rear.
To get an added 2-4" (results may vary) You'll need to look for a few different types of coil springs from the junkyard. The coil spring that yield the most lift, but harshest ride would be for F-150 front coil springs. They are VERY stiff springs but will give you closer to 4." The next best options would be front coil springs of a ZJ grand cherokee which will net 2" lift for 4" you'd need spacers.. Though with just Zj coils you wouldn't need to mess around with anything else in the front end.
There is also the ZJ tie rod (v8 only) tie rod swap that I've done a write-up before on, and seeing another person who has done the swap! They are solid steel tie rods and do not require modification to fit into the front of TJ's or Xj's You can buy every part new, and I mean every part, from auto parts store for a little more then $200..
Next the gear box!! You could buy this from an auto parts store if you'd like, or not and get it from junkyard as long as it works. Basically its very straight forward!!! Get the power steering gear box for a 1999 Dodge Durango, 1998 as well as long as it's not the plow edition! The mounting and everything is identical except that the durango one is stronger! (You can tell that anything cherokee had the larger vehicles had BETTER, but still swap into the cherokee making little rig a beast rig for cheap!!
Next: With added lift you may need a rear driveshaft, but are not ready for a slip yoke eliminator??? You are going back to the junkyard to pick yourself up a rear drive shaft. The t-cases i nthe cherokees had the same spline output shaft as the ZJ's making it fairly easy to use. this will cost $150 to have re-lengthened to fit properly because the zj driveshaft may be longer then needed. Easier to shorten then lengthen. (Note: this option is not avaiable for you if your doing the 231HD transfer case as the spline output is 32 splines.)
Now to the rear!! This one can be used from many vehicle's but I'm going to give you the basic vehicle to look for. The Chevy S-10 Blazer: Now when you use these leaves you can do it one of two ways! If you want to use the overload spring then your ride will be harsher, but removing it will give you more flex and a smoother ride. What you'll do is take the entire packs out of an S-10 blazer and cut the eyes off each end. Then remove your leaf packs from your XJ. From here you will remove every leaf spring EXCEPT the main leaf with the eyes. You will take the S-10 leaf pack and put with the main leaf of the XJ and bolt together. This will get you 2-4" of lift in the rear depending on how badly worn the S-10 leaves are!
Changing Chrysler 8.25 Drum brakes into Disc brake conversion!!
Vehicle: 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport
Axle: Chrysler 8.25
I hate drum brakes and found there are a few different ways to change the rear brakes to disc brakes on the XJ. I found you can swap any rear discs from a 1994-1998 GRAND Cherokee with little modification.
Parts needed:
94-98 GRAND Cherokee Rear Disc Brakes and proportioning valve
Diff Fluid
Brake Fluid
RTV Sealant
Dremel with grinding stone
Step 1:Acquire all the parts needed from a Grand Cherokee, years 1994-1998. Calipers, Backing Plate, Soft lines, all the hardware.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28868-zj-hardware.jpg
Step 2: Jack up your Cherokee and put it on jack stands.
Step 3:Remove Differential cover to drain the fluid. Be sure to remove only the lower bolts first to drain the fluid easier and so it doesn’t get every where. (13MM)
Step 4: Remove pinion shaft bolt (8MM). Once this is done you can push both of the axles in, causing the C-clips to fall off the axles. Then pull both axles out.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28874-img-0288.jpg
Step 5: Remove all the drum hardware from the axle. Leaving only the 4 studs for the backing plate.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28872-rear-drums.jpg http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28873-all-gone.jpg
Step 6: Now you will need to take the ZJ backing plate and grind down the center to fit the axle. I used my dremel with a grinding stone and it worked just fine.
-I went ahead and change the 4 studs as they were a little rusty and old. I used grade 8 3-8/16 x 1 ½ bolts with lock washers and new nuts. Just use a hammer to pound out the old studs. I would recommend this just to make the install a little easier.
-I also went ahead and change the axle seals. Use a flat head or pry bar and pull the old seal out. And I used a rubber mallet to put the new seal in. Be sure to hit the seal in a circle so it goes in evenly.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28876-img-0299.jpg http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28877-img-0301.jpg
Step 7:Install ZJ backing plate
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28881-img-0296.jpg
Step 8: Install parking brake assembly. Retaining clips then bottom spring/ adjuster then E-brake cable pivot then top spring
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28882-img-0309.jpg
Step 9:Install axles. Install c-clips and pinion shaft bolt. Be sure to clean the differential with brake cleaner before reinstalling.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28883-img-0312.jpg
Step 10:Install Rotors
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28884-img-0313.jpg
Step 11: Install Calipers. You will have to reroute the brake hard line to fit with the soft line.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/dmc-8827/albums/zj-rear-disc-conversion/28886-img-0315.jpg
Step 12: Install brake cables. I went ahead and bought new cables from Napa. Part numbers: 95969 and 95963. You can either use the stock cables form the XJ or ZJ but modifications will be needed. I didn't get any pictures of this.
Step 13: Install Proportioning valve
Here are two excellent write ups as on how to change out the Proportioning valve. You can either change the whole unit or just the internals.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoZJvalve.htm
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoPvalve.htm
Step 14: Install differential cover. Now is the time to paint it if you like.
Step 15: Bleed brakes/ adjust brake cable.
Finished product
Over all it is not a hard modification/install. Basic tools were needed. I would recommend. Less body roll when breaking and no more clunks after releasing the brakes from a stop.
(this is from cherokeeforum.com and I thought he had a very beauitul write up on the conversion! This is also the cheapest way to do the conversion!)
AX-15 to NV3550 Swap!!!
(This is another beautiful write-up that expalins the swap very nicely!!)
92 AX15 (with Internal Slave) to 04 NV3550 (with external slave) swap
My 92 YJ came from the factory with the 4.0 HO and the 5 speed AX15. This setup was plauged from the begining. I had paid 2 times to have the AX15 rebuilt in my YJ. I also had never been billed for, nor had I been asked if I had wanted to replace
the clutch or the leak prone internal slave cylinder. After 12,000 hard miles on my YJ the reverse gear finally snapped for
the last time. I was also have a lot of noise coming from the tranny when ever I put it in reverse, and a loud whine while
at 70 mph. I decided I was going to get a new clutch and slave clyinder.
So after I had driven around a jeep with a NV3550, and after reading many many different boards the options were soon
becoming limited as to what to do with my YJ. I dont wheel often enough to merit the NV4500 and another AX15 was almost as much as getting mine rebuilt. I got quotes from 700 to 1400 to have my AX15 rebuilt. I surfed on EBAy for about 3 months
looking for a good price on a NV3550. Soon enough a guy out of MN started selling brand new NV3550 on the Bay for like 1100.
I though this was a pretty good price but money was tight so I just held on. Soon enough I saw an auction for a brand new
NV3550 and I won it for 770 shipped to my door. This tranny was brand new it had never been installed in anything.
I soon began collecting parts and again reading about doing my swap. Here is a list of what parts I aquired and how I
aquired them.
1. NV3550 : Ebay : 770.00
2. 98 TJ AX15 Bellousing : Ebay : 45.00 local junkyard wanted 70 bucks
3. clutch fork : Dealer: 14.00 : Part # same as 97 and up
4. pivot ball : Dealer: 7.00 : Part # same as 97 and up
5. pivot ball spring : Dealer: 4.00 : Part # same as 97 and up
6. Clutch Kit (94-01 YJ/TJ) : Ebay : 140.00 : shipped http://www.clutchcityonline.com/
a. Clutch
b. pressure plate
c. Throwout bearing
d. pilot bushing
7. Slave Cylinder Retrofit : AA : 140.00 : Part #716340
a. Slave Cylinder : included in above
b. SS Braded line : included in above
c. Various Fittings : included in above
8. T-case shifter/bracket : AA : 40.00 : Part #715545A
A. Put the tranny in 1st gear and the t-case in 2WD. Remove AX15 and keep all hardware. Have your flywheel turned if need
be. Remove pilot bushing with the old grease trick. You must put grease into the pilot bushing hole and then pound in a
piece of wood/steel that is the exact same size as the pilot busihing, after you get it in refill it with grease and do it
agan. It will take a while but it does work and it is very messy. More than just the pilot bushing will come out when you
do this. The pilot bushing is in a holder and this will be hydrolicly pushed out as well. Pound out the old pilot bushing
with a 9/16" socket on the top and a 7/8" socket on the bottom. Remember what side was in and what side was out. Insert the new pilot bushing with the colored seal facing the tranmission side.
B. Bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel loosly and then install the clutch alighment tool. Get it in straight then
torque it to the correct amount.
C. Bolt the tranny up to the bellhousing. All of the orignal bolts from the AX15 went directly into the new tranny. It was
all very straightforward. I pressure washed my new/used bellhousing. I also powerwashed the T-case and bolted it to the
NV3550. Make sure that you also bolt the T-case shifter/bracket onto the t-case. I did mine later because I did not know I
was going to need one of these and it was a royal pain. I put them both up in at the same time because I had a buddy. At
this point I also removed the shifter tower from the NV3550 and replaced it with a piece of cardboard and re-installed bolts
onto the top of the tranny. I also bolted the lower tranny bracket onto the bottom of the NV3550. Again a direct bolt in.
Make sure that the new bellhousing and your motor do not have guide pins installed on both the motor side and the tranny
side. Mine had them on both sides and I did not notice it till I had the tranny almost all the way in.
: The first thing I noticed was the NV3550 was a sealed unit and the AX15 didnt seem to be. Meaning no gasket between t-case and tranny. I am not sure if the jerk that rebuilt the AX15 just did it wrong or not. The length was almost exactly
identical the t-case bolted up at the right angle, dont let anyone tell you that new trannies are clocked different
than older ones. The only ones to be clocked different were the dana 300s.
D. Put the tranny up in and install the bellhousing to motor bolts. You will notice that two of your bolts that are located
at the 3:00 and 9:00 position on the transmission are too long. I simply went to my local hardware store and got shorter
ones that were grade 8. Install the starter while the tranny is still supported with jack and jack stands. Then I installed
the skid plate and bolted the tranny mount to the skid plate. You will have to juggle the tranny back and forth to get it to
drop down into the holes in the skid plate. I also powerwashed my skid plate cause it was all covered in oil from the bad
seal between the AX15 and the NP231.
E. Take shifter assembly from AX15 and find a grinder. You will notice that the new T-case shifter bracket does not have
any guides installed on it. You will need to grind off the rivits holding on the guides on your old shifter assembly
carefully and bolt/pop rivit it to the top of the new t-case shifter. Dont let this overwhelm you it is only two pop rivets
holding it on and it comes of in like 1 minute with the help of a grinder.
F. Dont let that grinder get too far away, you will now need to make an adjustment to the linkage. The linkage is about 7
inches long and it has about 1.5 inches of adjustablity. You will need to grind down the linkage so that it has about 3-4
inches of adjustability. This was the longest part of the swap, I had a old slow grinder and it took about 25 minutes of
grinding it down, rotating it so the adjuster assembly could slide back and forth. I have never used a grinder for that long
in my life and I was able to do a pretty good job of it. Take your time and go slow.
G. After the shifter is bolted onto the new bracket place it in the 4wd High position. Bolt the lower linkage to the t-case
and snap the adjuster assembly onto the bottom of the shifter assembly. Now to adjust it, shift the lever into the 2wd
position. Then tighten the 5/16" bolt onto the newly grinded linkage. Now shift it into all the different ranges making
sure that you have all the ranges. Mine worked the first time and I think I was lucky.
H. Reverse Lights: I was unable to find the correct plug in for mine it would hook up but it wouldnt stay connected. I
rigged up a toggle switch temporarily to pass inpection.
I. Hook up the driveshafts, now is a great time to replace the universal joints, I did this and greased everything up
nicely. Remember to top off your fluids and retourqe everything.
J. I then unbolted the 4 bolts holding the cardboard on and replaced the shifter tower. Now I am faced with the problem of
locating a shifter that will work correctly, I think I am going to cut the old shifter off at the bottom knuckle and weld a
piece of flat stock onto it. Drill two holes and call it good.
LASTLY!! The jeep cherokee INTAKE MANIFOLD!!!!
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoIntakeManifold1.htm Jeep in 1999 and 200 used a rainbow shapped intake manifold which supplied air quicker to the cylinder improving torque! But also adds to more, maybe, out of the pocket spending which may not be in your immediate acces, thus this tip is last, and didn't want to make this post to long.
On a side note: the cherokee uses a PH16 oil filter, a PH8A filter can be used in place of the PH16 which can hold more crud; Hyper lube helps to quiet the 4.0L motor as well.
These are the cheapest ways to build an unbelievable cherokee XJ without having to poor money into the aftermarket world!!! Hope this helps anyone looking to build up their cherokee cheap, and I will also be doing these things to my own!!!! :thumb: Any other questions feel free to ask, I'm absolutely in love with the Cherokee XJ's!!!