Jeep won't start this morning.

[Max]

I think I flooded it. :(

I was starting it and let off the ignition too quick and it did not catch. Then it wouldn't start after a lot of cranking.

Any tips? Will it be clear and start when I get home later today? 8+ hours of sitting long enough?

[Squshiee1]

i dont think a little bit of starting fluid would hurt. i had to put some in my moms rodeo one time, but i ended up having to put a little bit in each cylinder, but after that no more problems.

Is it efi? i wouldn't think efi would flood.

[ccbruin]

Happened on my YJ back in the day. I thought the battery died, so i tried to jump it haha. Didn't work. What i had to do was kind feather the gas pedal a little while cranking.. Worked for me :rolleyes:. I dont know if thats whats suppose to be done..

[Hypoid]

Is it efi?
That is a good question to ask, and yes, EFI can flood. If you smell gas, hold the pedal all the way down, crank the engine. The ECU will shut off all the injectors to clear the intake of fuel.

Max, eight hours is long enough for the fuel to evaporate. When you go to start the Jeep, turn the key to the run position for a couple seconds, you should hear the fuel pump run, then stop. After the fuel pump stops, crank the engine.

[Max]

How long should I be cranking with the pedal to the floor? If it doesn't start after xx seconds, should I stop and check something else? I don't want to make it worse. I wasn't sure my 1995 had the programming to do the "clear flood" mode.

Yes, it is fuel injected.

[Brody]

Pedal to the floor works with carbed engines, not EFI. As soon as you turn your key to the 'on' position, your fuel pump is sticking gas into the engine. If it is actually flooded, try the following, in order:

Pull your fuel pump relay or fuse(or disconnect the + or ground to the pump) then crank the engine. You won't get any more gas into the cylinders and should burn off what is already there if it hasn't already evaporated.

If that proves too hard to do for whatever reason (system may shut down because the fuel pump is wired into something else critical and refuse to crank....I can get away with this on the Yota...), pull the plugs and use compressed air to blow the gas out of the cylinders. I shouldn't have to mention watch getting gas into your eyeballs or 'don't blow weird foreign matter' down into the cylinders, do I? If you do not have a source for compressed air, simply leave the plugs out over night and that will speed up the evaporation.

Take a good look at the plugs when you pull them, too, BTW. If they are wet, blow them off too.

If it doesn't start then, have someone listen to see if they can actually hear the fuel pump. Your problem may not be too much gas (unless you have actually smelled gas), but too little or none at all. This then goes into a huge number of other issues, all with different problems.

This is a very basic article posted in out TECH section:

http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?11461-Diagnosing-A-No-Start-Condition

I would also read that and do whatever steps that it suggests. It is a very good, very common sense article.

[Hypoid]

How long should I be cranking with the pedal to the floor? If it doesn't start after xx seconds, should I stop and check something else? I don't want to make it worse. I wasn't sure my 1995 had the programming to do the "clear flood" mode.

Yes, it is fuel injected.Unless you can smell the fuel, you shouldn't have to hold the pedal down while cranking.

Like Pete mentioned, we don't know that you are getting fuel. That is the reason for letting the pump prime the system before cranking. The pump should run for a few seconds, then shut off. When you start cranking, the pump should run while cranking. Once the engine starts, the fuel pump runs, until the engine stops.

My wife likes to hop in, start cranking, and keep cranking until the fuel system can build enough pressure to supply the engine. That's kind of hard on the starter, let the fuel system pressurize before you start cranking.

[Hypoid]

Pedal to the floor works with carbed engines, not EFI. As soon as you turn your key to the 'on' position, your fuel pump is sticking gas into the engine.
If that is the case, you need new injectors. BTDT

[Max]

I would usually hear a hum when I turned it to ON, but it is parked by a busy street, so I can't tell right now. I guess I could go out at midnight when there is no traffic and check again. lol

I cranked it for a while when I got home and didn't smell fuel. I pressed in the schrader valve near the engine and fuel squirted out hard, then dribbled off. I'm not at my house, so I have no tools and the location it is parked and from a parts shop isn't great to be wrenching. I think I'll get a friend to tow me to a repair place in the morning if it still doesn't start.

[Brody]

If that is the case, you need new injectors. BTDT

'Plain, please. You know more than I do....I'm serious.....

[Hypoid]

I cranked it for a while when I got home and didn't smell fuel. I pressed in the schrader valve near the engine and fuel squirted out hard, then dribbled off. I'm not at my house, so I have no tools and the location it is parked and from a parts shop isn't great to be wrenching. I think I'll get a friend to tow me to a repair place in the morning if it still doesn't start.
Try turning the key from off, to run, a couple times before you start it. If it still won't start, I'd say time for some hands-on diagnostics using meters, gauges, and scanners.

[Hypoid]

If that is the case, you need new injectors. BTDT

'Plain, please. You know more than I do....I'm serious.....The only time fuel should get past the injector(s), is when the negine control unit powers it/them. If that is not the case, you have fuel leaking through the injector(s).

http://www.davestuning.com/images/injector02.gif

[Brody]

Thanks, Mike!

[Rocket Scientist]

Ive clamped off the feed (fuel) line before it hits the rails. Just after it fires, shut it down & release the clamp & refire it. Its worked for me, not sure if its bad for the system or not but it has worked for me.