CodeXJ
March 17th, 2012, 12:41 AM
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
http://www.texlube.com/oilmyths.htm
I been running Castrol part-synthetic. Well It hasb een getting harder to get castrol part-synthetic by itself. So I have gon to the hi-mileage Part synthetic. 2 in 1. Every once in awhile I'd use Hyper lube or Lucas Oil stabilizer.
Well with advances in oil of today's time, the thickening of oil is actually doing more harm to your engine. (It's not going to blow your engine up, but it causes quite a few ill-effects.)
Synthetic oil is the best for the engine and running thinner oil is better for the motor as a lot of engine wear is during the inital start up. Synthetic oil tends to stick better to the moving parts and actually gets moved into the upper parts of your motor faster then thicker oil because thicker oil has to warm up first. Especially here in Colorado where temperatures can get pretty cold the thick oil, sometimes like 10w-30 or the stabilizers can make it harder on your motor!
I read through most of the ten chapters bob talks about, and I will try and run (still castrol part synthetic hi mileage 10w-30) but without adding oil stabilizer. I may after I get my seals redone go to synthetic.
On contrary to belief you can mix synthetic with conventional, just not wise to mix synthetics of two different brands. On the other hand synthetic doesn't make your oil leak more, bad seals make it leak and hi mileage is a bandage that sweels up to slow leaking (good for the Inline 6 which is a pretty leaky motor, and using hi-mileage my rear mainhas slowed from the non hi mileage.)
Even though 10w-30 is thicker then 5w-30 in some of the sources they say to stick with the recommended weight of oil as tolerances in the motor run best with those weights.
In a nutshell stay away from oil additives! Do to CAFE regulations motor oil has been coming a long way and running thinner oil actually reduces wear at start up and increases gas mileage. Bob explaisn the difference between thicker oil and thinner oil. A little thicker may do better if your running accorss the state every day but if you a short trip person then a thick oil does not have time to warm up to operating temperature which increases wear on your motor at a quicker pace. I like to think very keenly on my oil because it is a major and cheap helper from keeping you from buying a new motor or rebuilding one.
With Hyperlube, I have noticed a more sluggish feeling when colder when compared to I don't use it. But it does quiet my engine noise! (Tricky tricky) Another thing bob explains is that the thicker oil and additives do coat the parts effectively, but they can also get very thick which increases strain on your starter and battery to starting up your vehicle.
From a lot of reading up on a lot of forums I have found that everyone's advice to everyone else is run thicker oil as your miles increase. If so why are oils getting thinner? If you think about it, I had the same idea, old worn out parts, they need thicker oil to reduce frictional wear because they aren't in keen condition, but if its gumming up in your motor or not warming up fast enough to lubricate, then isn't your motor just wearing itself out more without thin oil to lubricate quickly. Bob talks about FLOW of oil rather to trying to make it thick.
He also talks about aftermarket Air filters to standard paper filters.. In his test he does state that the cotton filters like K&N DO let more air through increase your air intake, BUT paper filters FILTER more. So is it worth sucking in more air or filtering more stuff out of your motor? It's preference. I know that my motor doesn't get a good increase with an intake so I'm back to paper and seems to run better... Though you should change out your air filter when it gets dirty if your running paper, because if you run it to long your motor trying to suck air in may actually PULL the things it filtered through the filter and into the motor ANYWAYS.
I hope this helps!!
Just my :2c:
http://www.texlube.com/oilmyths.htm
I been running Castrol part-synthetic. Well It hasb een getting harder to get castrol part-synthetic by itself. So I have gon to the hi-mileage Part synthetic. 2 in 1. Every once in awhile I'd use Hyper lube or Lucas Oil stabilizer.
Well with advances in oil of today's time, the thickening of oil is actually doing more harm to your engine. (It's not going to blow your engine up, but it causes quite a few ill-effects.)
Synthetic oil is the best for the engine and running thinner oil is better for the motor as a lot of engine wear is during the inital start up. Synthetic oil tends to stick better to the moving parts and actually gets moved into the upper parts of your motor faster then thicker oil because thicker oil has to warm up first. Especially here in Colorado where temperatures can get pretty cold the thick oil, sometimes like 10w-30 or the stabilizers can make it harder on your motor!
I read through most of the ten chapters bob talks about, and I will try and run (still castrol part synthetic hi mileage 10w-30) but without adding oil stabilizer. I may after I get my seals redone go to synthetic.
On contrary to belief you can mix synthetic with conventional, just not wise to mix synthetics of two different brands. On the other hand synthetic doesn't make your oil leak more, bad seals make it leak and hi mileage is a bandage that sweels up to slow leaking (good for the Inline 6 which is a pretty leaky motor, and using hi-mileage my rear mainhas slowed from the non hi mileage.)
Even though 10w-30 is thicker then 5w-30 in some of the sources they say to stick with the recommended weight of oil as tolerances in the motor run best with those weights.
In a nutshell stay away from oil additives! Do to CAFE regulations motor oil has been coming a long way and running thinner oil actually reduces wear at start up and increases gas mileage. Bob explaisn the difference between thicker oil and thinner oil. A little thicker may do better if your running accorss the state every day but if you a short trip person then a thick oil does not have time to warm up to operating temperature which increases wear on your motor at a quicker pace. I like to think very keenly on my oil because it is a major and cheap helper from keeping you from buying a new motor or rebuilding one.
With Hyperlube, I have noticed a more sluggish feeling when colder when compared to I don't use it. But it does quiet my engine noise! (Tricky tricky) Another thing bob explains is that the thicker oil and additives do coat the parts effectively, but they can also get very thick which increases strain on your starter and battery to starting up your vehicle.
From a lot of reading up on a lot of forums I have found that everyone's advice to everyone else is run thicker oil as your miles increase. If so why are oils getting thinner? If you think about it, I had the same idea, old worn out parts, they need thicker oil to reduce frictional wear because they aren't in keen condition, but if its gumming up in your motor or not warming up fast enough to lubricate, then isn't your motor just wearing itself out more without thin oil to lubricate quickly. Bob talks about FLOW of oil rather to trying to make it thick.
He also talks about aftermarket Air filters to standard paper filters.. In his test he does state that the cotton filters like K&N DO let more air through increase your air intake, BUT paper filters FILTER more. So is it worth sucking in more air or filtering more stuff out of your motor? It's preference. I know that my motor doesn't get a good increase with an intake so I'm back to paper and seems to run better... Though you should change out your air filter when it gets dirty if your running paper, because if you run it to long your motor trying to suck air in may actually PULL the things it filtered through the filter and into the motor ANYWAYS.
I hope this helps!!
Just my :2c: