Brody
May 7th, 2012, 04:51 PM
I have had these parts for about a year and decided to do the brake R&R that was a bit overdue. I had already replaced the front rotors and pads and also the rear drums and shoes. Here is the rest of the stuff I did with some pictures and a lot of links. There are good write ups in the links for the LSPV removal and replacement with a regular proportion valve, installation of a line lock to either back up or replace the rear emergency brake, and a basic caliper rebuild. I listed all the reference links that I used on the last post for everything I did. I posted a couple of pictures that were in the links that were the most help, too.
My suggestions on the LSPV and Line Lock install:
Grab a couple of 10mm flared connector couplings.
Junkyard source some Toyota brake line fittings, both the "T" fitting and the long nosed brake ends.
Grab some extra 10mm brake fittings, 3/16" brake fittings and some extra 3/16" or metric brake line. You can also grab some preflared line with two fittings on it, metric and standard.
Have a small tube bender handy.
Have a small pipe cutter handy for the tight spots.
Have a flaring tool handy and know how to use it.
Test fit your line lock and proportioning valve adapter fittings BEFORE getting committed.
BOTH THE LINE LOCK AND PROPORTIONING VALVE HAVE MARKED 'IN and OUT' SIDES> DOUBLE CHECK YOURSELF.
Replacing the LSPV and installing a regular proportioning valve:
The biggest thing here is sourcing the 'L' fitting or blocking off the return line port. The next biggest is going from metric to standard....and finding all the right fittings for it. Your best bet for metric to standard fitting is going to be the internet. I bypassed all of this by cutting the lines and using standard 3/16" fitting where the plugged into the proportioning valve. You need to be familiar with flaring tools to do this.
You also have to deal with what to do with the return line. Most people leave it in place as a "spare" line and simply leave it tucked out of the way. I wanted to see if I could remove it for grins and tickles since it goes between the frame and the fuel tank in the back. End result: why bother. I now have a piece of line the length of my fuel tank that is going to live there until I have to drop the tank:D
Location is a matter of choice. Under the hood keeps most of the crap off it. Essentially you can mount this anywhere in the rear brake feed line. Although the area by the booster is tight, the shortness of the lines pretty much eliminates the need for bracketry. I was expecting to have to make a bracket, but by the time this was tightened in place, it was solid.
My suggestions on the LSPV and Line Lock install:
Grab a couple of 10mm flared connector couplings.
Junkyard source some Toyota brake line fittings, both the "T" fitting and the long nosed brake ends.
Grab some extra 10mm brake fittings, 3/16" brake fittings and some extra 3/16" or metric brake line. You can also grab some preflared line with two fittings on it, metric and standard.
Have a small tube bender handy.
Have a small pipe cutter handy for the tight spots.
Have a flaring tool handy and know how to use it.
Test fit your line lock and proportioning valve adapter fittings BEFORE getting committed.
BOTH THE LINE LOCK AND PROPORTIONING VALVE HAVE MARKED 'IN and OUT' SIDES> DOUBLE CHECK YOURSELF.
Replacing the LSPV and installing a regular proportioning valve:
The biggest thing here is sourcing the 'L' fitting or blocking off the return line port. The next biggest is going from metric to standard....and finding all the right fittings for it. Your best bet for metric to standard fitting is going to be the internet. I bypassed all of this by cutting the lines and using standard 3/16" fitting where the plugged into the proportioning valve. You need to be familiar with flaring tools to do this.
You also have to deal with what to do with the return line. Most people leave it in place as a "spare" line and simply leave it tucked out of the way. I wanted to see if I could remove it for grins and tickles since it goes between the frame and the fuel tank in the back. End result: why bother. I now have a piece of line the length of my fuel tank that is going to live there until I have to drop the tank:D
Location is a matter of choice. Under the hood keeps most of the crap off it. Essentially you can mount this anywhere in the rear brake feed line. Although the area by the booster is tight, the shortness of the lines pretty much eliminates the need for bracketry. I was expecting to have to make a bracket, but by the time this was tightened in place, it was solid.