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Jackie
May 12th, 2012, 03:47 PM
I was looking through my photos today and came across this one. Looks like it's ready to roll!!!

Rick
May 12th, 2012, 03:48 PM
that could be a bad day

Java
May 12th, 2012, 06:24 PM
wow! it looks like you could just give it a little push... where is that?

Beefy
May 12th, 2012, 06:44 PM
:eek::eek::eek::eek:

Jackie
May 12th, 2012, 10:13 PM
Moab.

Brody
May 13th, 2012, 06:57 AM
Just for grins, here is an excerpt from an article by Paul Piana where he is talking about some adventures he had with his main climbing partner, Todd Skinner, who later died in a rappelling accident..The size of the block he is talking about is about the size of this one that Jackie showed (I had used this same block and same fixed pin earlier on the exact same climb, as had many, many other climbers.), although the base was sitting "solidly" on the ledge rather than balanced precariously on a smaller one. You simply do not expect something that size to move....Keep in mind that when the block peeled off the ledge, these guys were 3300' off the ground...

Todd was a good guy and an excellent climber...

Morning was perfect. We breakfasted and started hauling freight up, joking about being extra careful, and how most car accidents occur close to home. I was first over the rim and selected the best anchor I could find. We had already used this huge block, as had years of other climbers.

Off to one side was a fixed piton to which I anchored Todd’s line, plugging in a #1 Friend to make sure. While Todd ascended the pitch I used the block for a hauling anchor as well as my tie-in. The haulbags stuck at the lip, and I waited for Todd, during the interim deciding that I might as well be embarrassingly paranoid and clip the fixed pin as well.

Todd reached the rim and I made him pose for pictures like Layton Kor at the top of the Salathé. Once he stepped over, I began taking out anchors. I removed the Friend, then turned and started lifting the haulbags. We heard a terrible grating noise. The block had come loose.

I’m not exactly clear about what happened next. Todd later remembered me putting my hands out at the block and yelling, “No!” I do remember the two of us being battered together, and the horror of seeing my best friend knocked wildly off the rim, and then a tremendous weight on my left leg as I was squeegied over. I recall a crack like a rifle shot, then more pummeling, and suddenly everything stopped spinning and I could just peek back up over the edge.

Everything was in tatters, ropes pinched off and fused—it appeared that they had all been cut. I was afraid to touch anything, and was sick with the knowledge that Todd had probably just hit the talus. Suddenly, a startling squeak sounded below me, followed by a desperate, “Grab the rope!”

I hauled myself over the top, and soon a bloody hand on a crushed ascender slid over the rim. I helped Todd up and we lay there for a long time. We were terrified because Todd was having trouble breathing and his pelvic area hurt badly. My leg was in a really weird position and reaching a crescendo of pain.

When we did stand we discovered that Todd’s line appeared to be OK. He had been held by one of his CMI ascenders. Apparently, the rock had scraped over the ascender and, miraculously, that small and now gouged and bent piece of metal had kept Todd’s rope from being cut. I had been held by the loop I’d clipped to the fixed pin. The 11mm rope with which I had tied into the block had cut like a cotton shoelace. The haulbags were gone.

We took the longest piece of remaining rope and slowly started down the East Ledges. A descent that usually took us just under two hours required more than seven. Todd suffered several broken ribs, and a piece of bone was broken off his hip. My left leg was severely gouged and was broken in five places.
Just for grins, here is an excerpt from an article by Paul Piana where he is talking about some adventures he had with his main climbing partner, Todd Skinner, who later died in a rappelling accident..The size of the block he is talking about is about the size of this one that Jackie showed (I had used this same block and same fixed pin earlier on the exact same climb, as had many, many other climbers.), although the base was sitting "solidly" on the ledge rather than balanced precariously on a smaller one. You simply do not expect something that size to move....Keep in mind that when the block peeled off the ledge, these guys were 3300' off the ground...

Sometimes at night, I shudder at the remembrance of being dragged off the summit of El Cap and knowing that we really were going to die. I still can’t believe all the diverse thoughts that flashed through my mind as we were going over the edge. Among them was how terrible it would be for our families. And now that Todd has died in much the same way, I know that reality is worse than I ever imagined. The nightmares have come true.

The climb was the greatest breakthrough of our climbing lives. The Salathé experience proved to Todd and me that these walls could actually be free-climbed.

Years ago, on a climbing trip to the Wind Rivers in Wyoming, a friend and I were crossing a huge glacial moraine field. Big, big rocks. I stepped on this rock which had the square footage footprint of a house and as I passed what amounted to the middle of the rock, the whole rock tipped. Stopped me in my tracks much as crossing an avalanche slope and having it "whoomph" and settle does. Basic "Oh s***" and makes the hair on the back of your neck stand up. Like I said, you simply do not expect rocks that size to move, especially when 160 pounds are the deciding factor....

Brad
May 13th, 2012, 09:41 AM
Looks like Schaefer trail?

Jackie
May 13th, 2012, 10:54 AM
That's a "miracle" story, Pete.

Brad - it might very well be on Schaefer because I found the picture in my 2008 collection of Moab shots and that is the year I ran Schaefer. Lots of my shots are from hikes that I took as well, so I can't be sure.

KnuckleHead
May 13th, 2012, 01:18 PM
I hope no one uses that as a winch point....