Patrolman's new 86 Toyota Custom Cab

[Patrolman]

Just picked this up yesterday. I have been looking for one for nearly 2 years. Got up at 4:00AM to hit the road. Drove almost to Albuquerque to pick it up and then drove it home. Over 600 miles and 12 hours of drive time in one really long/hot day. Luckily, no issues with the truck getting it home. I even got it to the emissions just before 5PM and it passed really well.

Need to take care of some maintenance issues and there will be mods for it as well! Here are the pics from the CL ad.

[Rick]

very cool;Like the antler shift knob.

[Patrolman]

If you like the antler shift knob, then you will like the rest of the pics to follow! This was in middle of NM, so lots of hunting to do apparently.

[Rick]

so lots of hunting to do apparently.GOOD HUNTING!!!!!!!

[4Runninfun]

Sweet find. I've always thought those were pretty neat. More pics of the interior please!

[Brad]

Nice find!! :thumb:

[Patrolman]

I will take some more pics when I get a chance. This is primarily going to be a work truck as the WB is REALLY long. U-turns are impossible. Planning on a winch and such as it is good to have just as work rig. Also, this was a 22ret, but had the motor replaced and is now a 22re. The turbo motors are notorious for issues. This still has decent power and will be much more reliable. The good news is that the 22ret tranny and t-case remains. That means a stronger drivetrain than the 22re originally would have been. Also got the tach and all the gauges because it was the 22ret.

[Popsgarage]

These were really cool little boogers. The extra part of the cab was pretty cool.

[Jackie]

Nice truck, Jeff!

[Brody]

Nice find in that kind of shape! Pretty damn rare these days, too!

[Rick]

as the WB is REALLY long. U-turns are impossible.Really????lets talk about that!!!:lmao::lmao::lmao:

[Patrolman]

The WB combined with the stock front axle doesn't help. Toyota never anticipated 30 extra inches in the WB. The stock WB is fine, but with no changes to the steering, it frankly sucks. Sort of the like the 6 door trucks. They were never made to be that long from the factory.

[Patrolman]

I had to get a VIN verification done today since it was an out of state title. Just FYI, there is a site with all sorts of locations. The Envirotest emissions stations cost the most at $20. I went to GO Dodge and it was FREE!

[RidgeRunner]

Sweet Truck!

[Rick]

I had to get a VIN verification doneIn Jefferson county you can call the sheriffs and they will come to your house and do it ,FREE!!!! My Black Dodge was from Arizona and thats what I did

[KnuckleHead]

Glad you finally found one..... looks good

[Patrolman]

Here is a list by county for who will do a VIN verification and for how much. That is how I knew to go to GO Dodge. Too bad I don't live in Jeffco!

Department of Revenue - Division of Motor Vehicles:VIN Verifications (http://www.colorado.gov/cs/Satellite/Revenue-MV/RMV/1186648384600)

[Cr33p3r]

Cool ride, I always liked those. Looks to be in really good condition too! Congrats!!!!

[glacierpaul]

Really????lets talk about that!!!:lmao::lmao::lmao: X2!! :lmao:

Sweet Toyota Jeff!!

[Patrolman]

So here is a list of planned mods that it will see. Most of the parts I took off my 87 when I sold it over a year ago. Parts have been in the garage just waiting for one of these trucks.

Winch bumper with 8274 Warn winch
1" body lift (required to fit winch/bumper)
Rancho heavier duty torsion bars, will crank up for about 1/2 inch lift
TJ coils in back for heavier loads and about an inch of lift.
Tuffy center console box with Cobra CB in it
Turn signals moved to front parking lights (on the corners)
90 amp alternator upgrade
Will put on my 3-door contractor topper

Also planning on an e-locker and some gears like I had on my previous truck. Will re-do the entire rear axle at the same time.
Will need new seats as well. Planning on some early 90's 4Runner seats. If anyone needs some cheap seats for a project, I will be giving the buckets that are in it away.

It also needs the ps pump rebuilt as it leaks like crazy. Will see new fan belts, water pump, etc while the front of the motor is half apart.

I certainly have my work cut out and photos will follow!

[Java]

I've never seen that before, it's really cool. It would make a great expedition truck too. I guess an aftermarket company extended the frame and added the extended cab part? Rear coil springs? I've never seen that on a toyota truck before, just the 4runners. I'm surprised that TJ coils would have more capacity than a stock truck coil, but it's all new to me. Looking forward to this build!! :thumb:

[Patrolman]

There was a company in Cali that extended the trucks. Basically, they remove the bed, cut the frame right behind the cab, and add in about 30 inches of WB. Then they cut out the back wall of the cab, and put on the fiberglass extension. Also extend the driveshaft and other components. Really, they don't have much more value than a regular truck now as there isn't much demand, but can be difficult to find when someone actually wants one.

The TJ coils actually sit on top of the stock leaf springs. They add additional capacity to the stock suspension. I did this on my previous 87 truck and my 87 4Runner. The truck will ride a bit rougher without much weight on the back, but can easily haul 1,000 pounds without blinking.

[dr350jja]

so what is the actual wheel base of that truck?

[Patrolman]

I believe it is 130 inches. I have yet to actually bust out the tape measure though. A wee bit long.

[dr350jja]

Oh, I thought it would be more than that. My Taco rolls on a 141" WB, and it does require some backing on switch-backs and tight spots. :frown:

[Patrolman]

Holy cow, 141 is long. The standard cab was 103" I believe in 1986. The Custom Cab portion I believe adds 30". It seems longer in person since the truck is still narrow.

It appears that the Suburban never went over 130" just as a comparison:
Chevrolet Suburban - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Suburban)

[Brody]

Rear coil springs? I've never seen that on a toyota truck before, just the 4runners. I'm surprised that TJ coils would have more capacity than a stock truck coil, but it's all new to me. Looking forward to this build!! :thumb:

Here is what Jeff is talking about, Paul, or at least a variation of it. The stock Jeep coils simply go over the existing rear Yota bumpstops and both eliminate the sag and increase the load carrying capabilities. I don't know quite what the guy was doing in the picture as he has a couple of set ups going on, but the concept is the same. The photo with just the red spring is more like it...One of those simple and cheap junk yard fixes. Another version of the same concept. Also for a Toyota with the same sagging rear end issue is to use a center coil, but that takes some fabrication and isn't a bolt on.....er screw on.. Jeff had these on his older Toyota when he sold it to Matt Feeney. It was the first time I saw it and it may now be double posted in the Yota stuff. As far as I know, Matt is quite happy with the set up and has no plans to change anything :

[Java]

I like it!! That is very clever, and it's cool that they just fit. :thumb:

[Heather]

Super cool find! Never knew those existed.

[95tacoma]

You found one! How I haven't seen this thread until now I have no idea. Looks awesome!

[Patrolman]

The center spring is a cool idea as you get extra load capacity, but really don't lose any articulation. Just a lot more fab. The coils on the leafs is basically no fab at all, just pop them in.

[Patrolman]

Finally got some pics taken. It has a "speaker box" attached to the rollbar over top of the back seat. That is coming out. Crappy job and I will relocate some speakers. Also has more than enough hunting decorations.

[Patrolman]

And the antlers thing screwed on over the glovebox handle is classic. It might just have to stay!

[Patrolman]

Lastly is pics of the carrier bearing. When they did the mod, they kept the stock rear driveshaft. Then a shorter shaft was installed between that and the rear of the t-case. Where the pair of shafts come together is a carrier bearing. A regular cab shortbed normally doesn't have this. On the factory Xtra cab, it sits in the frame shoe-horn. On the Custom Cabs they mount it to a flat plate of steel. It appears to be a different bearing, and I really need to find one. This one moves about an inch up/down just because the rubber it sits in is shot.

[Beefy]

That's a very interesting design. I've never seen one of those before!

[Rick]

thats a cool truck;did the guy hunt???:D:D:lmao:

[4Runninfun]

very cool Jeff! Now I want one ever more. And I think you should keep the antler glove box lever! :D

[Patrolman]

So lots of progress today. The antifreeze looked like river water. Nothing really funny floating in it like oil, just absolutely filthy. Not even sure I would call it antifreeze. Probably just straight water from a rusty can. After draining it all, removing both radiator hoses, I flushed it well with the garden hose.

While the coolant (or lack there-of) is out, I also pulled the thermostat. It works, but needs a new gasket. Managed to bust a bolt in the process. Also put on a brand new water pump since the belts were in need of replacing too. Not much work to do the water pump when the belts are already off. While the belts were off, also put in the rebuilt upgraded 90amp alternator I had waiting for it. The front main seal on the engine seemed to be leaking pretty good, so I pulled the oil pump and put new gaskets/seals in it. No time like the present. It had good PSI according to the gauge, so I didn't see any sense in actually replacing it. It still says Toyota on it, so likely the original.

When I had everything apart, I noticed a huge bunch of patch type material along the top seam of the radiator. It still seems to be weeping from that spot. I have another radiator and will drop it in. Only 4 bolts since everything was disconnected. That will get done tomorrow along with the new thermostat seal and replacing the bolt. Should be back on the road within an hour or so work!

[Patrolman]

Got the front of the motor all wrapped up this evening. The oil pump pinched the seal when I put it back together. Started leaking bad. New seal, and all is solved.

Also got a set of Ford style folding mirrors mounted. The dinky factory ones won't work with the topper/trailer.

Lastly, I measured out the WB at 134". It is longer than I thought.

[Brody]

That is a pretty sweet looking truck, elk debris or not!

They used the same carrier bearing set up (different mounting style) on all the extra cab pick ups. I have one on mine and kept it instead of going to the super long single DS because of the better angles. Surprised to not see a double cardan, though..

[Patrolman]

The issue with the driveshaft carrier bearing is that the mount is flat. On the Xtra cab trucks, they tuck into the horseshoe mount and are angled. I ordered one from Advance last night. Should be in today, and I may have to slightly modify it to fit. It REALLY needs replaced. The rear seal on the t-case had been leaking a bit, and it turns out the flange nut was loose. I believe this is partly from the driveshaft moving so much.

I also got a set of 2nd gen 4Runner seats mounted in. The bolt holes all line up, so just a bolt in job. It was originally a bench, and someone ditched the original seat for the POS buckets mounted to a cheap frame. It made for a long drive home when I bought it. The seats didn't move forward/back and didn't recline. The new seats are a HUGE improvement and even have a bolster and tilting headrests.

The new bucket seats also allowed me to put in the Tuffy center box which will hold the CB and other goodies. Pics will follow soon. It is really getting a good makeover! Should be much more reliable and pleasant to drive!

[Patrolman]

Here is what I ended up using in the Custom Cab:
404 Not Found (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPUCVSAMS_____)

It was 20% off for the holiday week. You have to cut off the little metal hooks and bend the tabs down so they are flat. Easy mods to make and it bolts right in. The last one was well used so this should last quite a while.


I also pulled the drive flange off the rear of the t-case. The nut was finger tight and it had been spewing oil. This is the 26 spline for the turbo model so it has a different seal than most. Put in a new seal:
AutoZone.com | Page Not Found (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=136728_0_0_)

And I also am changing the t-case oil to a synthetic blend. All should be good to go for a while.

[Funrover]

That is a great rig! I love it!

[Bunyon & Babe]

Real neat looking truck . Great score :thumb:

[Patrolman]

So some updates on the truck. We used it for our move in August, and it would overheat on a decent 1 mile grade with the loaded trailer, but it was 90 degrees, and the trailer was pretty heavy for the truck. Otherwise, it has been great!

The coolant was the nastiest I have ever seen when I got it. I know the engine was replaced, and I think there was oil in the coolant from the previous engine. The oil probably coated all the hoses, heater core, radiator, etc. Took several flushes with water to get it all out. Once clean enough, I added coolant back in. Seems clean enough now and I believe this engine is void of any issues.

I started making mods to the truck. Got the TJ rear coils mounted on the rear axle. That was just before the move and helped tremendously with the heavier loads. Also put in a set of bucket seats from a 1990 4Runner. MUCH nicer than the junk that was in there. I also got the carrier bearing for the driveshaft replaced prior to the move. Worked like a charm. Managed to replace the t-case rear seal and the t-case oil as it was spewing out based on the line it made on the bottom of the truck. I also decided to get the dinky mirrors swapped for 1980's Ford style that fold in. All great improvements that helped with the trailer.

I had previously started to convert the parking lights in front to serve as parking and turn lights. I wrapped up the passenger side this evening. Still have some work to do to finish the driver side. This was in anticipation of putting on the winch bumper I have, which won't allow for the stock turn signals. My mod is a bit different, but similar to these:
http://www.yotatech.com/f116/how-do-you-relocate-blinkeres-into-parking-lights-203562/
http://www.yotatech.com/f120/marker-lights-into-turn-signals-252236/
http://bajabumpers.com/2008/12/29/turn-signal-conversion/

Got the bumper and grill removed this evening and also replaced both headlights (one was burnt out) with bulbs that have a replaceable H4 bulb that plugs in the back. Allows for a lot more options in bulbs. Basically all the grill/light area is getting replaced or modified. :)

[glacierpaul]

Cool!

[RidgeRunner]

Do you have any pics of how you did the parking light mod? I've been meaning to do this to mine, just haven't found the time. I was hoping to find something a little better than plastic bottle caps to use on the back side.

[Patrolman]

I did the parking light mod to my previous truck about 5 years ago. Took a while to figure out, and had to refresh my memory on the passenger side. I will be taking pics along the way when I do the driver side. Hope to have it done before end of Tuesday since I have a Mon/Tues off work this week. Cheap and easy mod that just requires a dremel tool.

[Patrolman]

Here is the beginning of the turn signal conversion in no particular order. You need to get a pvc fitting from Home Depot or Lowes. Take the socket for the light with you. It should fit right into the end that has the groove and clip into place. The fitting is the same dimension as the vertical curved lip on the back of the parking light. Trim off this vertical partial curve on the back of the parking light. Also trim off the plastic clip part just next to it. The back of the parking light needs to be opened up. It needs to be large enough for the bulb to fit through, but small enough so that the pvc fitting doesn't fall in. The large end of the pvc fitting needs to be trimmed off (opposite the end with the lip). After it is trimmed off, you can set it on the back of the parking light. It needs to have a slight curve carved into it so that it fits the curve of the back of the light. Make sure to remove enough material for the PVC fitting so that the bulb fits into the hole of the light. If it isn't in far enough, the light won't be bright enough. Don't cut to much, or the bulb will contact with the front lens and could be too hot and melt it.

[Patrolman]

More info...

This shows the gluing of the PVC part onto the back of the parking light. I use liquid nails because I typically have a tube around from household projects. Use the epoxy of your choice. Just get it coated good to fill in the gaps from the rough dremel cuts.

In regard to the wiring, you need a socket as shown and an 1157 bulb. These are dual filament bulbs. There are 2 wires, one is low which is for parking, the other is high, which is for the turn signal. The case of the socket is the ground. Put the bulb in and test to find which is bright. Simply ground the socket to the negative of your battery, and touch one wire to positive. Then try the other wire. Remember which is which. I drill a tiny hole in the clip part and solder another wire on it to use for the ground since it can't ground through the pvc.

You need to determine on your parking light which side is positive. Easiest way is to unclip the parking light (if you didn't to do the cutting). Turn on the parking lights, take a voltmeter or test light, and put one lead into one side of the parking light plug. Put the other to ground. If you get voltage, that is it. If not, try the other side. Then mark the corresponding side of the bulb side of the plug + and -. The turn signal is much easier. It has 2 wires, one that goes into the center of the bulb, one that goes to the side. The center is positive, the side is negative.

Now that you have the positive and negative sides marked and know what the bright/dim wires are on the new bulb, time to connect them. Personally, I solder mine and wrap in electrical tape. Make sure the + for the parking goes to dim, the + for turn goes to the bright. You really only have to connect the - wire you put on the socket case to one of the two ground wires for the lights. I typically use the turn signal ground wire. The parking ground (unsure if it really grounds, which is why I opt not to use it) remains empty, so cover it over with some tape.

Your new light is now ready to install. I will post more updates when the weather clears and I can get outside to fit it into my truck. Minor mods are needed on the truck.

[Patrolman]

Got the winch bumper mounted (had previously been on my past Toyota truck). Had to put a spacer in it since the other truck had a small body lift of approx 1". Fits nicely. Got the Warn 8274 mounted into the bumper. Still need to clean up the wiring for it a bit. Also want to add a reinforcement to the bumper. The right turn signal mod was done a while ago, so I got it fit into place. The left side was glued together with the Liquid Nails a couple days ago, and is still just a bit loose/damp. Not driving the truck, so it can sit a couple more days. Also took the bug shield off since it will likely be too close to the top of the winch. It is a tight fit. I prefer the truck without it anyways.

The last modification needed to install the lights is the pound in the seam that is right behind the headlights. Otherwise the bulb on the parking light won't fit since there is a clip that fits into the fender meaning the light has to go in straight rather than angled. Pics of before/after of the pounding of the seam. The passenger side I cut first with the angle grinder just to make it bend a little easier. Not necessary really.

I also plan to trim off the 2 "brackets" that previously held the bumper end caps. No need for them now with the new bumper. Won't be going back, and they are just a danger really now.

[Patrolman]

There are some upcoming mods for the Custom Cab. The bumper was made for a 1" body lift, so I would like to get that done so the bumper fits smoother. Also, the 3RZ is still waiting to go in. The 1" body lift would help.

To complete the 3RZ, I need to figure out the motor mounts. The bolt pattern is the same as the 22re, but the positioning is slightly different. I want the engine to sit as far back as possible, but also sit as far up as possible but still fit under the hood. There are clearance issues with the 3RZ and the IFS front diff, so the higher it is and further back, the better. It may require moving the trans/tcase back an inch or so.

I will also need to see if I can set up AC with the 3RZ. The 22re is R12, which doesn't work but is complete. The 3RZ compressor (I would have to find one) would be R134. Need to decide which way I want to go. The R134 is cheaper but unsure I can fit all the parts together with the current 22re parts.

There are other things to consider, but will be fairly straight forward based on what other people have done. Clutch, slave cylinder, bell housing, radiator, hoses, air cleaner, exhaust, wiring, battery, etc. Good times! :)

[RidgeRunner]

Looking good! I just noticed that you posted up pics of the parking light mod back in December. Thanks, I'll be doing that to mine here shortly.

[Patrolman]

I think it was the best way to keep both the park and turn as bright as possible. It is the 2nd time I have done the parking light mod. I really like it. :)

[glacierpaul]

Love the plumbing part retro fix, very nice:thumb: (I am a master plumber:))

[Patrolman]

Yeah, the connector fits in there like it was made for it. Spent about 10 mins walking Home Depot looking at parts for it to plug into when I first did the mod. Makes it much cleaner and easier to service!

[Patrolman]

So I haven't done anything in recent weeks since I have been working on getting the 3rz ready to swap into the truck. That means the truck has been driven on a semi-regular basis. I am happily surprised that it has gotten 20-21 mpg over the last few tanks. :) I keep a light foot and most of it is commuting in light traffic. It is still on the stock tires for winter and stock gears, so that helps. Hoping the 3rz returns as good or better mpg!

[Patrolman]

very cool Jeff! Now I want one ever more. And I think you should keep the antler glove box lever! :D

There is actually one that I just saw on CL located in Cheyenne. They want $5k or so, but it had a small block and LOTS of mods along with a flame paint job. :)

[Patrolman]

I recently started doing some yard/house work and had to haul a considerable amount of stuff with the truck. That had some issues come up. When we used it for our move last August, it would begin to overheat on mild highway hills in the 90 degree temps. This was towing a 12' utility trailer. Now, even without the trailer, it was getting hot even when the temps were 80 outside. I also found the radiator had a bit of a leak. SO, it got a 2-row aluminum radiator made for a V6 model yesterday. Much more cooling capacity than the original and it is basically a bolt in job! Will post pics when I am done.

[RidgeRunner]

Where did you get the radiator? I came very close to messing mine up last weekend when I dropped the power steering pump and bracket on it. If it ends up failing I might go aluminum, although I've never hand a temp problem with mine.

Keep us posted on how it performs.

[Patrolman]

Here is the Custom Cab in Casper, WY. It started as an Xtra cab, so it has some serious leg room in back!
http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/3821131504.html

[Patrolman]

Here is the link to the radiator I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400320609489?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2F i.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D4003206 09489%26_rdc%3D1#ht_1939wt_1141

$104 shipped with tax. It is for the V6, so it is a tiny bit bigger and the upper hose is angled a bit. I intend to drop in the 3rz engine in the next year, and this is a common style radiator to use, so I was planning a bit in advance for some extra cooling.

[Patrolman]

Here are pics of the radiator.

[Java]

:thumb:

[glacierpaul]

Cool!;)

[Popsgarage]

Hopefully that fixes your pesky overheating problems.

[Patrolman]

Yeah, 27 year old radiators probably aren't helpful. This should solve it!

[4Runninfun]

Here is the link to the radiator I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400320609489...ht_1939wt_1141

$104 shipped with tax. It is for the V6, so it is a tiny bit bigger and the upper hose is angled a bit. I intend to drop in the 3rz engine in the next year, and this is a common style radiator to use, so I was planning a bit in advance for some extra cooling.

Offer still stands, if you need/ want a hand let me know!

[Patrolman]

Thanks! It is all in and ready to go. If you are thinking about one, you are welcome to take a look at mine.

Here is the link to my 4Runner build. I put a modified Howe radiator in it.
http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?2271-1987-Toyota-4Runner
It has been flawless and keeps the 4Runner nice and cool even on the hottest days. I hope this radiator performs just as well! Will report later how it does.

[Patrolman]

So some updates. I had some minor issues with the radiator. It was still overheating sometimes. It took a LONG time to figure out what was happening. The radiator turned out to be a bit too tall. The hood would shut when you pushed on it, and I would always shut it by hand instead of dropping it down as the cap was close to the hood. Apparently the hood had actually pushed down on the cap, and deformed the radiator fill neck. It would gradually allow the coolant to boil out and eventually over a period of time overheat. The company has a lifetime guarantee, and paid for return shipping on the 1st radiator, and sent me a 2nd one. This one was OBVIOUS that it was too tall. Just about 1/4 inch taller, and there was no way the hood would shut. I made 1" drop brackets and lowered the radiator in between the frame rails. Clears the hood fine, works like a charm. Keeps the truck cool and no leaking/overheating issues over the last few months.

Additional work a month or so ago included putting on the 22re air cleaner box and tube. It had PVC pipe going from the 22ret box to the intake when I bought it. The 22ret box faces toward the exhaust, so it never worked great. Had to pick up parts from a few people, but now it is all stock 22re.

[Patrolman]

The maintenance/repairs today started with the rear output flange on the t-case. Apparently the gear oil can slowly leak past the splines and spray on the underside of the truck. The rear had leaked when I bought it. I replaced the rear seal and put some sealant on the splines when I slide the flange back on. After taking it apart, it looks like the sealant hadn't covered all the splines, hence the leaking again. The recommended fix is to put the flange on, and before the washer/nut is put on, put a bunch of sealant where the washer will go. I used black RTV and also replaced the seal again since I was already in there.

When I was under the truck, I noticed the e-brake cable was really loose. The e-brake was about useless, and this would be why. I removed the rear drums, inspected the shoes, which are fine for now, and replaced a broken wheel stud on the passenger side. Put everything back together and adjusted the rear brakes. The brake pedal is much more firm and the truck stops better now. Also adjusted the e-brake cable as it was even more loose after the brake adjustments. Brakes now all work like they should.

After I swapped in the 22re air cleaner box and other parts, I noticed the idle went to about 1,200. I adjusted the idle back down to 800 rpm today. Runs smooth and ready to go. :)

[Patrolman]

It has been a while since I posted about the Custom Cab. The last 3 weeks I have been driving it daily. It is still getting 20mpg in town. Hard to complain about, except for the lack of power. It has been a fantastic truck and I am still very glad that I bought it.

This Summer I am hoping to make some upgrades and mods. There is an extensive TDL for this truck, so I will have to see how much I get done this Summer. Will post pics as things are completed.

[Rick]

Think i saw you driving south on Simms the other morning as I was going to work..... Can't miss it,unless they're are two of you

[Patrolman]

You probably saw me. I drive right down Simms to Bowles to take the little one to preschool. It has been my DD for the last 3 weeks. Hard to miss, huh? :)

[Rick]

Sweet ride!

[Brian]

Yeah dude that's looking good!

[Brucker]

Don't know how I missed this thread before. Love the custom cab.

[Patrolman]

Started the maintenance today that I have been putting off for some time. There is a long list of things to do.

Things started by replacing the passenger CV shaft. The boot has been torn for a long time, but with the locking hubs it was never a big deal. I had a pair of used CV shafts, so the driver side is still on the TDL as it is torn as well. Not a bad job.

Next job was to replace one of the burnt out tail lights. I put in LED tail lights for the tail/brake bulb on each side. Seem to work well enough. As long as they don't burn out I will be happy.

3rd job was to adjust the rear brakes. I adjusted them a couple years ago, and the self adjuster just doesn't seem to work right which is pretty common. Prior to adjusting them I popped off the drums and confirmed the shoes are still in good shape. Once adjusted the pedal feel was much better and the truck had a better stopping feel. I am going to do some work on the front brakes, so I wanted to make sure the rear brakes were in good order so I could tell if anything changes when the front work is done.

4th job was to tear down the rest of the passenger side hub. I replaced both bearings (Timken brand) and put in a new inner seal and races. Cleaned and then greased everything properly, put in a new lock washer. Put in a new brake rotor meant for a 1993 4Runner V6. It is slightly larger diameter and thicker. The replacement caliper and pads didn't go in tonight, but everything else is buttoned up. The calipers are used from a 1993 4Runner and have larger pistons than original, so this truck should stop even better.

Pics should be posted tomorrow.


The immediate TDL still includes the driver CV shaft, caliper and pads for the passenger side, a total rebuild of bearings and brakes for the driver side, replace a broken wheel stud on the driver front, bleed the brakes, and then possibly upgrade the master cylinder depending on how it feels.

[Patrolman]

Got a bit more work done today on the passenger side. The V6 caliper is bolted on after having to slightly trim the dust shield. Everything bolted up no problem. When I bought the pads I noticed that they are going to be significantly larger than the 4 cylinder pads. That is good news. With the larger pistons and larger rotors, the larger pads will give even more braking power.

For those interested, here is the link with the info that I have been reading up on:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/35037-How-to-Upgrade-your-1st-Gen-Toyota-4Runner-Brakes

[Patrolman]

On Friday I got the driver side completed. Had to cut the dust shield top and bottom to clear the V6 caliper, both top and bottom. Put in the new bearings and seal, new rotor, and V6 caliper/pads. Got everything bolted up put on a V6 1" master cylinder. Bled the brakes, and everything seems to work relatively well, but I think there is some air in the lines. The first push on the pedal and it is sort of soft. If you pump it another 1-2 times, it firms up really well and will lock up the tires.

[Patrolman]

As I was taking the truck out of a test drive, I noticed the exhaust was louder than it had been. The tailpipe and muffler have both been rotting the last couple years, and I have been putting them off. Figured the muffler had blown a bigger hole in it, but when I returned, I found out the mid pipe had rusted through and the muffler had basically detached from the rest of the exhaust. Time to order some new parts and make another repair!

[dieseldoc]

Oh dam....looks like the little welder will getting some use!

[Patrolman]

Yep. Will get getting never exhaust from the cat back. Everything is shot. Good news is they carry all the parts at the local auto parts store including the mid pipe, muffler, and pre-bent tail pipe.

[dieseldoc]

Cool. Let me know if you want some help to get your welds to come out nice.
We have some thin stuff at the shop you could grab for practice.

[Patrolman]

Cool. Let me know if you want some help to get your welds to come out nice.
We have some thin stuff at the shop you could grab for practice.

I actually have a ton of thin stuff hanging out in the scrap bin here. Always good to have extra steel!

[Patrolman]

So I got the exhaust pieces all put together and cheesed out and put clamps on them for now. Also use chain/wire to hang it for now. It will work for the time being. I eventually plan to weld it all up if I am happy with it. Also might wait until I do the 3rz swap before I weld it all. The 3rz will require some minor exhaust mods, so not much point it making it look too good right now. At least it is intact and quiet.

[Patrolman]

The old exhaust piece came off quick and easy. It was our from under the truck faster than Tom Petty can sing American Girl. :) Once I had it all out on the driveway, it was clear that it was simply a race as to which part failed first. The muffler had a giant hole which I was aware of, and another smaller hole on the other end. The tailpipe had basically fallen apart. It was surprising to me though that the mid pipe was what actually failed first.

[Patrolman]

So the Custom Cab is going to get some work this weekend and coming week. Hopefully a couple "mods" are in the works! :)

While searching for some info online, I came across a Jalopnick regarding a matching Custom Cab to mine!

http://jalopnik.com/for-9-000-this-1986-toyota-custom-cab-pickup-could-be-1782632376?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+jalopnik%2Ffull+%28Jalopnik%2 9

[Patrolman]

Here is the newest "mod". :) Looking forward to being able to camp on some trails where the trailer can't go. My neighbor sold his old Ranger and bought a full size Chevy. Couldn't use the camper any longer, so he made me a great deal on it!

[Chris]

Looks great Jeff! Nice to have alternatives!

[Patrolman]

This also has a fridge and furnace! It sure is nice to have the alternatives. The truck camper isn't as spacious as the trailer, but can go more places and park in tighter camp spots. Downfall is that I can't take the truck out and leave the family at the camp site. Basically everyone has to go with the camper into town.

[Chris]

That's when the trailer comes in...

[Patrolman]

Exactly! That is why my dad was always an advocate of trailers rather than motorhomes. He could hope in the vehicle and go into town early in the morning while everyone else slept.

[Chris]

After using a RTT for a season we went to the popup simply for ease. No breaking down every morning and setting up every night. Now we just drop the trailer and go. So much better for us!

[The StRanger]

That's why I'm workin on the tent on the front of the trailer. Kind of a redneck toy hauler.

[The StRanger]

I can put that on my list of other projects. .

[Jim]

Who got the winch?

[Patrolman]

Who got the winch?

Talking about the Warn? There is a Warn 8274 on the front of my Custom Cab.

[Jim]

I was look'n at the 8274. The truck's yours - or is it just the camper??

[Patrolman]

The truck and that camper are both mine. We intend to use the camper to go on light trails where the trailer can't go. Also the camper will be better in colder weather.

[Brucker]

Congrats on the new to you camper!

[Patrolman]

Today was the install of the Rancho torsion bars. They are thicker than the stock bars, and of course aren't 30 years old. They were used, but I was rather surprised that the front of the truck raised 1.5" at the wheels when I installed the bars at the same setting as the stock bars. Rides smoother too. Clearly the old bars were worn out and sagging too much.