xaza's 94 XJ Build

[xaza]

Although I don't have much for pics of the build so far, thought I would start this to be able to slowly add to it.

Currents mods:
3.5" RE lift/2" spacers & longer shackles
Rebuilt motor with about 2K miles
3" cat back exhaust
Teraflex adjustable upper and lower control arms and track bar
G2 Dana 44 axles with Eaton E-lockers/4.88 gears
Uhaul 2" receiver hitch
Front recovery hooks
31" BFG KM2

First pic is before mods
http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/08-24-2009085411PM.jpghttp://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/08-24-2009091129PM.jpghttp://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/P3220295.jpg

[xaza]

Future mods:
Rusty's steering upgrade (should arrive next week)
33" tires until I can afford bigger lift, 35" after
Fender Trimming
Frames stiffeners, exo cage, rock sliders, front and rear bumpers and roof rack
SYE
Big enough lift to run 35" tires with mild trimming :D
Electric fan conversion for mechanical fan and aluminum radiator(still running original stock...oops)
Exhaust headers and new exhaust the rest of the way out
Lighting, lots of lighting plus an underbody glow
Snorkel
Possibly additional power adders

[xaza]

Found a couple more pics
http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/old40.jpg

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/oldmotorinJeep.jpg


Also just got my steering from Rusty's

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/Steeringconversion002.jpg

[glacierpaul]

Nice Cliff, love the Cherokees!

[xaza]

Already have a thread on axle install
Installing new axles today (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?16603-Installing-new-axles-today)

but here are a few pics
http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/AxleSwapFront002.jpg
http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/AxleSwap008.jpg
http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/AxleSwap001.jpg

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/AxleSwap014.jpg

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/AxleSwapComplete001.jpg

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/AxleSwapFront022.jpg

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/Lockerswitches003.jpg

[Serious Offroad]

I STRONGLY suggest inspecting the welds on the G2 axle tubes before you get too far into your build.

[Hypoid]

What should he be looking for, Frank? Pictures of examples would help.

[Serious Offroad]

Had one in the shop recently and the welds were piss-poor, nothing more than tack-welds.

[xaza]

Welds were inspected before the install, my brother and I were actually admiring the some of the work. Nice fluid beads, not burned too deep, not just sitting on surface. The issue I do have with the axles is on the front. Both ways turning the wheel you can see where the axle is bottoming out around u-joint. Only on drivers side though. Supposed to take it to 4 wheel parts for them to look at. Getting rid of my death wobble first. Along with my new Rustys steering I am replacing the wheel bearings and steering damper (Rustys too). Thanks for the heads up...think I will go ahead and check all the welds anyway. Been wheelin a few times and put some miles on em but better safe than sorry.....although they are under warranty :steer:

[xaza]

Pretty sure I found my death wobble. Passenger side tie rod just spun with the nut and had to be cut off. Ran into a snag installing steering. The new steering arm is straight rather than having a curve on the passenger side. Causes the steering arm to hit diff cover before hitting the stops. Could just extend bump stops and I might have to anyway. Anybody know of a knuckle conversion that would extend out about 1/2 inch further, which should still fit 15" rims. I figure any little bit more I can get the better.

[xaza]

Here is the old one
http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/Steeringconversion006.jpg

and the new one hitting the diff
http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/Steeringconversion004.jpg

all the way to the left

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/Steeringconversion005.jpg

[Hypoid]

I can't fault Rusty's, for designing steering for a D-30, that won't clear your set up. It just sucks that you have to modify a new product, to make everything work together.

If you have your heart set on Rusty's product, start shoppin' for an offset TRE that will screw into the new Tie Rod. Is there a published diameter/thread size for the Rusty's TRE?

[Serious Offroad]

I've run into something similar with my Serious Steering Kits and what looks to be a Solid diff cover on your rig.

I'd suggest ditching the Solid cover in favor of a Ridler cover.

[xaza]

So got my alignment done today and the death wobble is much better. Had no issues on the way home and thought it was fixed but wobble came back above 35 mph. As I expected my toe was way off. Apparently my wobble is caused by caster angle. We adjusted the adjustment shims(TJ front axle) which helped. I have adjustable upper and lower control arms to be able to further adjust but am getting mixed answers about what caster should be set at. My Rusty's steering says 7.5 degrees positive. Anybody have experience with the caster angle?

[xaza]

Got to thinking about it last night laying in bed. My death wobble was not present after the last time controls arms were adjusted so I highly doubt they need to be adjusted. Thoughts? I keep coming back to thinking it is the upper joint on track bar, but not able to see any movement. Thoughts? :bang::bang::bang: Ok take that back there is movement now. As the steering wheel is being turned I see the top of track bar squishing up and moving...it should be 100% solid, yes?

[Hypoid]

:bang::bang::bang: Ok take that back there is movement now. As the steering wheel is being turned I see the top of track bar squishing up and moving...it should be 100% solid, yes?
Yes, or at least minimal travel.

I visited Sean yesterday, we looked at his Ranger. The new, rubber, track bar bushings were squishing all over the place. As he worked the steering, I was able to see the truck body move back and forth, while the tires and axle stayed planted.

Stock caster for an XJ is 6.5*, plus or minus. GoJeep has a writeup that you can use to check your caster without a rack: Alignment (http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm)

I just realized, you have a low pinion axle. You might have to compromise between caster and pinion angles.

[gm4x4lover]

I have 5 degrees caster and zero death wobble. I can't imagine have a lifted jeep with a lp d30 and being able to get that much caster with out the front diff shaking the jeep apart. If the dw is stilll present try lowering caster some. Less than 6 degrees is fine. Some jeeps I ali with lifts are as low as 3-3.5 degrees caster. I would also double check the steering linkage angle to make sure it is close to the track bar angle. Some times those kits require a track bar drop bracket.

[xaza]

The track bar and control arms have been on the Jeep a couple years now, long before death wobble started. Axles were replaced with Dana 44's with no death wobble issues. Had a friend borrow it while in town for a week and he put 1000k miles on it with no issues. Bent steering linkage on Spring Creek and have had issues since then. Have since replaced my steering with Rusty's steering upgrade, had wheels rebalanced, and alignment done. I don't know how to measure my caster. I do have a pitch gauge to measure pinion angle though. Oh yeah replaced a wheel bearing because I had a new one sitting here in the box. I am feeling certain that my caster is where it should be because I had run it previously with no issues. I compared the movement of the upper track bar between my brothers Jeep and mine. They both move a bit but in different ways. His shifts side to side slightly (no wobble) mine shifts in and out(up and down).

[gm4x4lover]

The rusty's heavy duty steering is almost a cross over right?

[xaza]

Here is the Rusty's steering I installed, post #11 has a good pic of factory steering

Rusty's Jeep XJ-TJ-YJ Tie Rod Conversion - Conversions - Jeep Steering (http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-steering-comonents-conversions-upgrades/rustys-jeep-steering-conversions/rustys-jeep-xj-tj-yj-tie-rod-conversion.html)

[Hypoid]

His shifts side to side slightly (no wobble) mine shifts in and out(up and down).

Time to replace that end of the track bar, and any other TRE that moves up and down on the stud.

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/Steeringconversion004.jpg

[xaza]

That's what I was afraid of. Made a mistake going with a Teraflex track bar that has to be replaced when the tie rod goes bad. Will replace it with a RE or something else that can be repaired.

[Hypoid]

DOH!

Get something that holds the track bar bolt in double shear.

[xaza]

The death wobble continues. I now replaced my track bar with the HD RE 1660 and my mounting bracket has been replaced the HD bracket. I am at my wits end with chasing this down.I am prepared to pay to get this fixed. Anybody here want the work?

[Rick]

The track bar and control arms have been on the Jeep a couple years now, long before death wobble started. Axles were replaced with Dana 44's with no death wobble issues. Had a friend borrow it while in town for a week and he put 1000k miles on it with no issues. Bent steering linkage on Spring Creek and have had issues since then. Have since replaced my steering with Rusty's steering upgrade, had wheels rebalanced, and alignment done. I don't know how to measure my caster. I do have a pitch gauge to measure pinion angle though. Oh yeah replaced a wheel bearing because I had a new one sitting here in the box. I am feeling certain that my caster is where it should be because I had run it previously with no issues. I compared the movement of the upper track bar between my brothers Jeep and mine. They both move a bit but in different ways. His shifts side to side slightly (no wobble) mine shifts in and out(up and down).
just mty 2 cents!!! I would back track to where it started to happen,just going through the thread and that is what I would do.

[xaza]

So I believe my wobble is fixed. Ended up adjusting the control arms in 2 turns. Wobble turned into a shimmy that the stabilizer was able to control. Turned controls arms in 2 more turns and seems to be fixed. Only took on a short test drive when going to ER last night, but feels much more stiff and solid. Here is my new track bar and HD mounting bracket that was installed. Very easy to install, bracket just bolts right in. The lower bolts for new track bar is larger than stock so hole had to be reamed out to 1/2". Got an extra bonus with bracket. My coil springs when flexing used to hit the back side of track bar bracket. New bracket is thinner and leaves much more clearance and should stop from scratching paint off springs again.

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q595/xaza23/RE1660Trackbar.jpg

[Hypoid]

Puuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuurdy! :)

[Cr33p3r]

Nice, seems like track bars are an issue lately, I just fabbed up a new one for my rig. Glad to see yours appears to be fixed now.

[xaza]

Got out for one good wobble free trip, wobbles returned on way to the hills following week. Threw my hands up and took it to 4 wheel parts. They replaced the tie rod ends on new steering and bushings on even newer track bar (less than 300 miles on it). Was pretty sure that wouldn't fix issue but they were insistent. After repairs made wobble still present. They have now resorted to telling me it is because of tires and Rusty's steering. Have swapped the tires for a set of 33s off my brothers Jeep and the wobble seems pretty good except for at 45 mph. speed up it goes away, slow down it goes away. Just replaced all tie rod ends in factory steering so it is ready to go back in when I get a decently warm day. I did space out that we "borrowed" my shackles to make a temporary repair to neighbors Jeep. Going to put them back in which will drop the back 1" and level things back out. Any ideas on what causes speed sensitive wobbles?

[Coonburger]

death wobbles are a ***** thats for certain, ive heard people replace pretty much everything and still didnt figure it out. tie rod was always the go to for me. hrm........ shocks maybe? heard that rumor that it can start from there.

[Hypoid]

Any ideas on what causes speed sensitive wobbles?I'm leaning toward tire balance, misalignment, or both.

I hate doing this over the interweb because I can't look it over, or get a feel when it's acting up.

[glacierpaul]

[QUOTE=Hypoid;219416]I'm leaning toward tire balance, misalignment, or both.
X2, sorry to hear Cliff, these older Jeeps just make you want to scream sometimes, especially when you have it 'fixed' ;)

[xaza]

Yeah, I was incredibly lucky to drive this truck lifted for 8 years without any wobble issues. My first experience with this has been pretty rough. Starting to think it might be easier to buy a trailer :lmao: Not sure if longer shackles are causing any issues but I do know if you let the back end sag it gets wobbles. If anything I would expect my pinion angle to be too steep, sitting at about 6" lift back there with no SYE :erm: and stock driveshaft (a longer one from another cherokee with different t-case output shaft. Am looking to get my shackles taken care of today and see. Maybe replace steering. Once steering is swapped I can take it back to 4 wheel parts but would prefer to fix myself. Seems to me they are simply replacing the common fail parts hoping to get it, which is something I can do myself. Was hoping to fix the problem not everything else first(too late) One thing that has me a bit concerned with my service at 4 wheel parts is they initially said the ball joints needed replaced. Once I told them that they were under warranty (from them) with the new axles they changed their minds and said they were fine.

[gm4x4lover]

Did you check the ball joints? I cant remember but did you change the ride height in the rear? If so that can effectively change the ali settings.

[Hypoid]

Have another shop check your wear parts. I can't think of anything nice to say about 4wheel parts, so I'll STFU on that topic.

What brand of ball joints came with your G2 axle?

[xaza]

So I removed the shackles I had put on my truck temporarily and returned mine. I liked having the little extra, but the last test drive felt to me like that was all that was left. The shackles for my truck which set it level are 5 5/8. The ones we had used while mine were being borrowed were 6 5/8. Just a note, the shackle change was long after wobble...just recently actually. We had used my shackles to level out a neighbors Jeep (raise rear from stock shackle) that had a speed sensitive wobble just like mine had after last test drive. It resolved his issue and we are supposed to be replacing the springs for him, his are way sagged. Well it does appear that leveling me out has finished my issue, but have been here before over last couple months. Hope to play soon and a lot. The tires I borrowed are my brothers new to him 33 x 10.5 x 15 km2 so I decided to check out how well 33s fit :D

[xaza]

Well with a little more caster adjustments wobble issue seems resolved. Took to China Wall for anniversary run and then through Woodland Park and the Springs back to Denver with no wobble issues even doing 65-70. I was trying to be patient but with the beautiful weather today I decided to shovel the back yard and start some work.

[Rick]

Atta boy, to bad you didnt smash your bumper so you could say it was my fault!!!!!!!!!!!! just jokin, glad you could get started on it. Are you still going to powder coat it Gold?

[Brad]

Nice! Get it on there! :thumb:

[xaza]

lol, it's always gotta be someones fault Rick. You just happened to be the easiest scape goat. no I am going to enjoy the black it came with. When the time comes it needs a new paint I'll reconsider. Will be easier to visualize when I have my other sliders, racks and cage to determine how much gold will look good without it taking over the trucks color.

Was a little nervous taking the sawz all to my truck, so I made my brother do it :D
Had to remove the old bumper, the recovery hooks and unbolt steering gearbox. I then placed the brackets into place and bolted down gearbox with new supplied bolts. I left the L bracket on front for recovery hooks to be able to bolt down bracket while tightening gearbox bolts to prevent fighting to line up bolts while holding the bumper. I then had to drill additional holes for rest of bolts. That was where I ran out of light and called it a day. Estimate to have it on with another hour of work, would have had it done if I would have gave up and went to get right tool when I knew I needed it.

[Fordguy77]

Looks like your brother didnt do to bad of a job. Going under the knife can be edgy.

[Rick]

it's always gotta be someones fault Rick.Glad to be of help!!!:thumb:

[xaza]

In the end there were not too many holes to drill out and the install went very smooth from start to finish. The recovery hook bracket actually provided me with 2 nuts on each side welded to a piece of angle iron eliminating the need to fuss with holding the nut and tightening down. Had to remove bracket on passenger side to allow feeding the back plate with nuts inside the frame rail. Once those 3 bolts were snugged down I bent the handle, used to feed plate, back up inside frame within reach to pull out if the need should arise. Bolted bracket back into place and was as simple as holding the bumper in place and feeding the bolts through. The farthest back bolt on each side actually goes all the way through the frame. This is where I hit the only hick-up. I am missing the 2" frame rail spacers. The brackets bolt on from the outside of frame rail so will be easy to install later. I will contact Smittybuilt when I get time and maybe get them to give me a good deal on a winch :D. I am thinking of the X2O 8000 Competition winch because it comes with synthetic line and is waterproof. I was contemplating upgrading to the 10k though because I wheel with big trucks a lot...like Rick.

[scout man]

looks great!

[tonkatoy]

The bumper looks good.

[Chris]

Nice Cliff! :thumb:

[Rick]

I was contemplating upgrading to the 10k though because I wheel with big trucks a lot...like Rick.and the cost isn't much more. Looks great.

[Fordguy77]

Looks great

[Rob]

Sweet. :thumb:

[Brad]

:thumb:

[The StRanger]

I like it !!

[carpenle]

I dig it. I need to get a bumper on my xj

[88Toy]

...I was contemplating upgrading to the 10k though because I wheel with big trucks a lot...like Rick.

:lmao:
Nice bumper!

[xaza]

So I went to four wheel parts and they have the x2o 8k winch with synthetic line and was planning on picking up tomorrow. Not sure it is the right winch though. I really like the fact it is waterproof. The down side is the 440 amps it draws. I was looking at the Quadratec Q series winches and for $100 cheaper can get one with synthetic rope. The line speed is faster, max power higher and amp draw only 300. Anybody have experience with these winches? Any other thoughts on winches? Never had one before.

[glacierpaul]

Sweet Cliff! My advice for the winch is the bigger the better, and buy snatch blocks and other related equip. My lesson from our last run was that when we did the entire line pull with no snatch block, I ripped the synth line button out of the drum. Easily avoided when using a snatch block. I am going to buy a 100' of extra synth line to use instead of straps and chains too. Keep it more uniform, and light weight. Synth is expensive though.

[xaza]

Yeah it is. $200 bucks for 90 some odd feet of 8,000 lb at Four Wheel Parts. Priced it out while I was there this morning. I get today off paid for my birthday (not till tomorrow). The only reason I was questioning my decision to go with the X2O-8 was the high amp draws. Since there is no comparable waterproof winch out there I went ahead and picked it up. I am planning to run a dual battery setup (was supposed to be done before winch) which will help to counter the high amps. When looking at winching kits I think I have decided to go with the rugged ridge one to get me started. Do I have to carry a length of cable to use snatch block?

[xaza]

I am rather disappointed that when I explained my concerns to 4 wheel parts they didn't offer me a possible solution that I found while reading the manual. The 10k and 12k winches actually draw less amps. Not sure I would have gone for the additional 100 bucks, but would have liked to know. I am still super happy with my winch and bumper selection. Installed in a couple hours this afternoon. Very straightforward and the bumper had nice openings right where I needed them. Still have to go back through with some rubber hose to finish insulating my wires. I talked to Smittybilt today and they are shipping me the frame rail spacers, for now I just snugged up bolts so they won't fall out.

[Fordguy77]

Looking good! If it gives you too much trouble I'm fairly certain there are some high output rewind kits for your alternator, at a very reasonable price. Ill try and find the site for you just I'm case.

[glacierpaul]

Cliff, extra cable is nice, but not mandatory. Just try to half the length of your wire to the snatch block in any pull, if possible. I am of mind now to just use the block on every pull if feasible, because it is easier on the winch motor too. Make sure you have a tree strap/cable/chain dedicated for the snatch block. BTW, I still have your brothers short strap, will see you at some point I am sure.
I put together my own kit, you may price out stuff seperately and save $.
Jeep is looking good Cliff!

[xaza]

Nice Paul. Did you get your strap back? Here is the Rugged Ridge kit I was looking at.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/92109_2200_07.htm

I think that with the straps, chains and cables we already have will be a good start. Wasn't sure if you could run synthetic line through this snatch block though. Meant to pick it up yesterday with winch but got too excited I forgot. My brother carries a 20 ft cable if not. Might just piece together my own kit though considering I really have everything in the kit besides the tree strap and snatch block :lmao:

[Hypoid]

Nice Paul. Did you get your strap back? Here is the Rugged Ridge kit I was looking at.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/92109_2200_07.htm

Meant to pick it up yesterday with winch but got too excited I forgot. HOLY COW! This guy can beat that price: http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/Winches-Recovery-Gear/Recovery-Gear/Rugged-Ridge/Rugged-Ridge/RECOVERY-GEAR-KIT-RUGGED-RIDGE-UNIVERSAL-APPLICATION

[xaza]

hehe, yeah that's who I got my bumper from. Amazing fast delivery, no problem/delay fixing my typo in address. Lesson learned not to order stuff after a 15 hour day at work while half asleep. Highly recommend Frank, taking him brothers axles to be geared soon. Four wheel parts has it on sale right now too and as much money as my brother and I have spent there we get hooked up. I think I just got in trouble and should just pick up the extras I need. :erm:

[xaza]

So as is typical of every time I work on one of my vehicles I learned a valuable lesson today. Apparently the middle console of a truck that gets hot and cold is not a good place to keep stickers for months on end because you're too lazy to get er done. Took some effort because the glue to the sticker backing had gotten very sticky and ended up leaving glue smears. We'll see how it holds up.

[Brad]

:thumb: I have 2 that I have not put on yet.

[Chris]

I have about 30 left that I just posted in the classifieds. :thumb:

[xaza]

So I have been pondering a few things for a while now and figured I'd throw em out there and see what I learn. I know the coil of a ZJ gives about 1-1.5 inches of lift. I also know the front and rear springs are different lengths. I have a 3.5 inch lift on my ZJ that I have been considering taking off to drop back down to help stability now that it is primarily a street ride. If I were to put those coils on my XJ that should be 4.5 to 5 inches of lift, where it sets now. I could then add spacers and I think I might be able to clear 35's. I also have been wanting more flex and have been considering a coil conversion with a long arm kit. I figured this would make it easy for me to match front and rear springs for replacing in future, even if I went bigger, the spring perches would be set same as GC. I obviously would need to cut off leaf brackets and weld in coil perches, control arms and brake line extensions. The upper spring perch, what is best way to determine best placement and will there be enough room to use ZJ coils? Feedback, input, backhands?

[glacierpaul]

...backhands..:) Boy I wish I was more savvy with tech questions!

[Hypoid]

I could then add spacers and I think I might be able to clear 35's.Time to cut. :cool:

Frank Z did a coil conversion on his XJ. I'll see if I can find that thread later. I do remember he had to swap the rear coils a few times to get the ride to his liking.

Start researching triangulated 4-link suspension set ups.

[xaza]

Decided to get my louvers done on this beautiful half day left after my wifes brother left. Will post up a thread on that in a bit. Hope I didn't take too many pictures, wife jumped in and helped when I didn't even know it too. I started with the most important line first, the top (closest to windshield) I measured a straight line across the curved top of hood by measuring in from corners, marking and measuring out from those marks. 5 inches in from edges, 5 inches out from top. I marked this edge with a flexible piece of metal and taped down. The second most important line was hood center. I laid in a piece of blue tape approximately where center line was and then marked taped at 3 easiest spots in center. I measured the indent that runs down center and used gaps there to make measuring close and easy. I then used my straight edge with metal piece across top to get perfect center line. From center line out I measured 3 inches from center line, made 3 marks and used straight edge to help lay down another piece of blue tape to the inside of line. Time to line up the louvers. Laid them into place lining up top and inside edges to the part of louvers that has to drop through the hood. I taped the louvers down, double checked their alignment then used louvers in place to tape down my other 2 edges. I set tape in against inside edge of louver, the one that goes through hood.

[xaza]

Next I removed louvers to clean and prep for paint. Then got them painted black. Continued working on hood in between coats of paint. I used a washer with a similar curvature to the louver inside edge to mark my rounded corners with a sharpy. All marked up and a perfect excuse to go buy a new tool, got me a new B&D skill saw. I used a chunk of wood, cut at an angle to help support hood. Put hood rod on lower setting and wedged in wood to make hood stable and began cutting. After cutting and test fitment had to do a few touch up spots to fit which I did with a rotary tool (was super helpful for nice clean round corner). Only got one side done today, still have to decide how exactly I want to secure it in place.

[Java]

Looks good!

[xaza]

Got other side cut this evening. Made my brother do it while I was tinkering with the ZJ. :D He was pretty nervous at first but did a great job as usual. There's a reason I trust him to do these things. He hates doing it for me because I am a real PITA, I think of it as pushing his potential.

[Rick]

Looks good!

[Java]

pushing his potential!!! :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

[glacierpaul]

Nice Cliff!! 'pushing his potential'...:lmao:

[xaza]

:D I have changed my mind on the frame stiffeners I am going to use. I really like the ruff stuff ones, the down side to them is they require a lot more work to install because they are so long. I opted to go with TnT customs because I was able to get the center section now and not have to remove lower control arm brackets. The way my mind works that would surely mean long arm upgrade and not ready to do it yet. When I am ready I can get the front stiffener extensions and add them. They have some cool stuff, easy to get out of hand.
http://www.tntcustoms.com/xj.aspx
I ordered the stiffeners yesterday morning and they were here today! Now I need to have them welded and can help with the grinding. They have the instructions available online. If interested in doing the work, shoot me a pm with a $. If you can also include approximate availability, obviously schedules change and stuff happens. I am on call next week which means I will be working crazy hours, I am back up on call this week and it is already crazy busy....squirrel

pictures!
I had to open them and see how they fit :D

[glacierpaul]

cool man!!

[xaza]

Got lucky today and knocked out my early morning service calls and made it to Jon's (Popsgarage) to get my frame stiffeners installed. Even managed to make it through the day without any other service calls. As a bonus for the day (besides meeting a bunch of great people) Jon helped me repair a stripped trans crossmember bolt. I had been procrastinating this job for way too long. We ended up tapping out all four bolts since we needed longer ones anyway. After a little grinding at the weld points and using a jack/c-clamps we fitted frame stiffeners and it was off to welding for Jon. Didn't take him very long. He then hit it with some self etching primer and topped it with a black paint (I forgot which kind, he can chime in and let u know) No pictures of final paint yet, post em when I get em. Got a couple though of course. On a sad note, my transmission mount is toast and will need to be replaced. Guess I know what's next though.

[Popsgarage]

Rustoleum Hammered Black. Stephan Watson, who owns Off Road Design in Carbondale, swears by it. I've found it to be much more chip resistant than other spray can paints.

[glacierpaul]

Sweeet!! Good job Jonathan!! Jeep is getting sweeter by the week Cliff!

[Java]

Looks great!! :thumb: in the 2nd to last pic there is a piece of wood between the jack and jeep with a wire coming out of it- just wondering what it is??? is that like the chain on the pen at the bank?

[xaza]

:lmao: That is the ground for the welder, it is actually behind the jack going to lower control arm bolt, frame side.

[xaza]

So with the time I spent around my truck at Jon's, I remembered a few of the little things I had been putting off. Got up this morning and decided to knock some of those things out before it got hot. I started with tranny mount and moved on to rerouting my winch wires to set more behind winch. I also insulated wires with some cut radiator hose. While looking things over I found my oil pressure sending unit was very loose so I tightened it. I apparently knocked my lower control arm nut loose on a rock, mangled the mount a bit and took zerk fitting off control arm...:D Almost sounding like a good enough excuse for a long arm. Got control arm tightened down and got stopped by getting called in to work, good 9 hour day ought to pay for something...maybe flowers. Pulled truck up onto steps and checked doors, amazing how the back hatch opens and closes so easily. Would have to say frame stiffeners helped a lot, can't wait to drive it.

[Popsgarage]

Pulled truck up onto steps and checked doors, amazing how the back hatch opens and closes so easily.

So it musta helped some then?:thumb:

[xaza]

yeah, helped a lot. Used to be just a little tilt and I couldn't close hatch. Steps provided much more tilt than was needed before.

[glacierpaul]

'...good 9 hour day ought to pay for something...maybe flowers.' :lmao:
Very nice Cliff, I like the radiator hose idea!

[Fordguy77]

looking good

[Hypoid]

I found your next mod. :D

http://naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=245924210&postcount=2857

[xaza]

LOL, I was saying same thing just yesterday. Got one sitting round needing rebuilt.

[Popsgarage]

Now that'd be cool!:thumb:

[Rick]

I like the radiator hose idea!x2..... looking good cliff

[xaza]

Finally got a chance to pull axle half shaft and do something about the binding up of u-joint on drivers side. Four Wheel Parts had ordered my replacement axles so I removed axle to take down to exchange and saw a bit more damage than expected. The drain plug on diff cover had 0 threads on one side, never properly drill out to begin with, not stripped. Also found a bit of scarring on axle shaft where we think the bearing rides. Since it was short side my bro was able to see inside and says he sees no marks or damage. (Nice that he can get so much done on my truck while I was at work today) We are theorizing that the half shaft being too long and binding causing the wear on shafts from binding at u-joint. This is what G2 had confirmed which is why they sent us new axles. The additional wear near bearing we are hoping is due to flexing of shaft when bottoming out with force such as dropping off rocks, which I occasionally do. We are going to give it a test run this next weekend and pull it apart again to see what else we will need to do. Four Wheel Parts is contacting G2 to try and get the labor for replacing bearing paid, I am waiting until I know for sure before I take them my truck. Haven't been out for 2 weekends...itchin. Pic 3 is the damage we saw that told us something was wrong. They didn't have the same diff cover but had a solid diff cover (G2) which actually sticks out less and is better for steering rod hitting it, only barely touches one way now. Still have to get longer replacement vent tubes for axles, might run them up into cab.

[glacierpaul]

Damnit anyways Cliff!! Glad you have your bro to help you out too! Your a lucky guy! Hope you get it all squared away soon! Shakedown run up here when your ready?

[xaza]

I am planning on running it next weekend Paul. I think we will be going to T-33A. My wife has been dying to run that one and with her birthday being Friday I guess she should get to pick trail. Took us until after dark last night but we got the front skid reinstalled and gas tank skid installed. Guess I was a little late getting that one too :frown: couple deep dents in gas tank, guess little plastic shield did something cause it doesn't leak. Was a PITA getting hitch and skid into place together while fighting 3 inch exhaust (4 inch tip). I have decided I don't really like the Rusty's steering and have decided to upgrade to an over the knuckle eventually :erm:. Should tuck steering up into skid better and position steering linkage across a smaller section of diff cover.

[Java]

so G2 sent you the wrong size axle shaft and that caused this? that sucks, hope they pay up! nice to see you pushing your brother's potential again!! :lmao:

[xaza]

Kinda worse than just sending the wrong size shaft, they assembled the complete axle and shipped that way. In addition to the warranty from G2 I did also purchase the extended warranty from 4 wheel parts too, glad I did!

Always pushing somebodies potential! :lmao: Been making brother pissy lately though :erm:

[Hypoid]

Was a PITA getting hitch and skid into place together while fighting 3 inch exhaust (4 inch tip).Nut strips, FTW!






















I know, now that you've done the hard way. :rolleyes:

[xaza]

Without a doubt the nut strips are easier, but I have plenty of bolt buddies (wire that wraps around bolt) so I didn't have to worry about losing bolt into frame. Getting the holes to line up was the tough part. Getting about ready to tackle cooling. Picked up relays needed. NAPA sold me a relay that will likely burn up but we'll see. I told them the fan at start up can draw around 100 amps, they assured me relay would work. Got home and it is rated for 30 amps. Fan draws 40-45 amps continuous on high. Picked up a starter solenoid to cut power to fan relay. Will power toggle switch from ign (like other fan) to engage solenoid. Fan relay is a 5 post, (coil +, coil -, power, normally open, normally closed) Coil on fan relay will be energized by temperature sensor which will switch from low to high. Will have some pics here soon.

[Brucker]

Your XJ is VERY nice.

So are you missing the nuts strips? If so, thought about making your own?

Also, to help with cooling, the addition of hood vents helps tremendously on XJ's. You can pick up some of the plastic louvered vents from a junk yard on the cheap. Then it's just cutting the hood to fit on each side and gluing/bolting/riveting them in.

[Hypoid]

My tank skid install was complicated by the extra sheet metal I welded to the bottom. :p

What fan are you installing?

I remember looking for schematics for Errinjan's Tarus fan. All the internet magicians were claiming 100-Amp start up loads. Have you looked at the stock wiring for the Tarus fan, or the Volvo fan? I don't see 100 Amp wire on the stockers, and they manage to keep the smoke inside! I will say that I am impressed with the Volvo, two speed relay. Couple one of those with a thermostatic switch and I think you'll be fine.

[xaza]

I have reached a good stopping point now. I need to clean my work truck so I can get into my new work van this next week. Thanks Aaron, this truck has been a 10 year process that was crawling slow until last year. I have been learning step by step the way to do things wrong and then understanding why. I did recently install Lebaron louvers, it's further back in this thread. I am converting my mechanical fan out to install the 2 speed electric fan out of a Taurus 3.8L. At same time I am going to replace original radiator and aux fan. I already have the aux fan wired to a toggle switch that is powered with ignition on. I will leave wired this way when installing new aux fan. I will have another toggle switch wired same way for main fan power. This allows me to turn off electric motors at deep water crossings. The toggle switch will power the starter solenoid, allowing power to fan relay. Wiring on fan relay is 5 posts. 2 are for relay solenoid which I am going to connect to the factory temp switch for aux fan. Normally closed contact is low speed. This means until temp switch closes and energizes solenoid fan will run in low. Normally open contact is high speed, temp switch closes, energizes solenoid which switches to high speed. This is vital because the 2 speeds are different windings on motor and it will burn up if both are powered at same time. The last contact on relay is power from starter solenoid. I have the 30 amp fuse inline to starter solenoid that the previous owner of fan used. Found a 120 amp resettable breaker at auto zone for around $20 and may purchase if needed. Most of the trimming needed on fan shroud was done by previous owner but had to trim a couple pieces and will likely end up going back and cleaning up old ones. Starter solenoid is not in final position, I was thinking about the hood clearance and didn't even think about prop rod, but it will be somewhere near there, maybe just dropped down lower. In my diagram the starter solenoid is labeled as fan relay, and the relay is the speed control relay.

[Clickpopboom]

I'm interested to see how the fan install goes. I recently picked one up out of a wrecked 07 Liberty that I may retrofit into mine. I'll do a new radiator some time too. No excuse not to- I get them 45% off from Performance
Radiator through work.

[xaza]

Here is a video of the Taurus fan going into a Jeep


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=MYom0TqtOKY

[Popsgarage]

I think you and I discussed the shaft being to long. Ran into that before on another XJ. Binds like a mother against the cross pin and pushes against the wheel bearing. Causes all sorts of issues. Save you pennies and do the WJ knuckle swap in my opinion though. G2's not known for a super high quality build. Should be better for the money.

[xaza]

After spending too much time trying to figure another way to fit electric fan and still have the fan pulley available if needed, I had to ditch that project for now. A few weeks ago after smashing the side of my truck pretty good I ordered some new rock sliders from JCR Offroad. They finally shipped and arrived yesterday. Since that is more important than the fan upgrade decided to try and get them on for tomorrow. I did get the new radiator installed, condensor coil blown clear of debris and the new auxilliary fan installed this week. A side job I took on for this morning ran over and I missed Pete's service, so I jumped in and helped my brother when I got home. Fairly simple installation and the only tough spot was where I had bent pinch seam last outing. The sliders have 2 mounting arms with 4 bolts each (2 hit frame stiffener, 2 straight to frame) and 5 bolts for pinch seam. Instructions state the sliders are completely solid with 3 in each mount and 3 in the pinch seam. We got all but 1 of the mount bolts. The last one would have hit a weld point for frame stiffeners and I opted to leave it. We got 3 pinch seam bolts in each side. Total of 21 bolts holds it in. The sliders shipped bare metal so after fitting drilling and refitting had to get them painted. I opted with some hammered black for a finish, but am likely going to take them off again to paint them with a textured paint to match bumper. I used brake clean to clear away excess grease and then wiped down with shop towels and alcohol water mix. I used a self etching primer, 2 coats and began the final with hammered black when rain started to roll in. Had to throw up some tarps but got er done.

[Java]

Those look great!!! I want to repaint mine now, that paint looks much better than the satin black I have. :thumb:

[glacierpaul]

Sweet Cliff! I need to check those sliders out for my Jeep, the wife likes the steps on the sliders to aid getting in/out.

[xaza]

Those were the stage 3 Cherokee sliders, they also had the stage 2 which is the same stuff only the round tube comes straight out instead of angling up. They would prolly work better for a step. Actually they have more to offer for your JK, I really like option 2 though. 4 looks sweet for armor, not so much for step.
http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=JKSld

[glacierpaul]

Those are half price compared to Mopar.

[xaza]

They are able to offer a better value because they ship bare metal which I thought was nice because then I know exactly what finish it has and can patch it as needed :D They also build it after it is ordered, had my name written right on it! They had to modify mine slightly due to frame stiffeners and my intention of a long arm, but they have it all layed out nicely when ordering online.

[xaza]

Got some long overdue tinkering done on the truck today. I replaced the split washer fluid reservoir, power steering cap and mechanical fan shroud. Once wheeling season and my job slow down I will get back to electric fan conversion but until then this should help. The entire bottom of my shroud was destroyed when I snapped a motor mount bolt a few years back.(slacker!) Also got the rust off my new front diff cover and started painting it. Hit it with self etching primer and then hit the logo with green. Had to stop there for tonight but tomorrow I will tape over logo and cut out with razor to highlight it and then paint rest with Hammered black.

[The StRanger]

Sweet. I like the Green !!

[xaza]

OK so managed to kinda finish painting axle. I am unhappy with my lines and will have to redo them but since steering hits axle the green should be trashed quickly enough. After off set tie rods are installed will repaint and make sure I have a sharp razor blade for cutting out logo. My box cutter kept wanting to rip tape instead of cut. If you ask my wife and brother they will say it is my OCD, which does not exist! A sharp blade and I should be able to clean up line separating the "G" & "2". Funny thing, after reinstalling drag link, can't even see logo :lmao: I spent 45 minutes cutting out logo 3 times to get it as good as it is, but at least I know it's there. I did tape over fill plug but forgot to remove tape before pics. Speaking of...

[xaza]

Got my Kargo Master roof rack earlier this week. Got it assembled quickly enough and got 4 inch rain gutter mounts to install it yesterday. Got up this morning and got er done-ish. Had I gone with the 5" I would not have had to remove factory luggage rack. I took off the front one and adjusted roof rack towards the front to be able to keep rear luggage bar with CB antenna attached. Left it that way because luggage rack flexes slightly when dragging it through the trees allowing antenna to slide through more easily. Not too sure I like the way it sets on truck and there may be some future modifications in store.

[xaza]

Well the fun never ends here. Had truck pulled onto concrete for last couple days while tinkering and got up this morning to tinker some more and have a small puddle under rear main. Hadn't dripped a drop in previous day and a half. Upon further inspection found it to be a coolant/oil mixture. Sent out email to engine builder and hope to hear back early this week. I am hoping labor is covered so I can just take it to a shop.

[xaza]

So I was able to get to the freeze plug on back of head and it is not leaking. The little heat tab popped right off in my hand so looks like I don't have a warranty anymore. Anybody know how to access the freeze plug on back of block to check it? Really don't want to have to pull motor, especially with brother too busy to help me.

[Popsgarage]

Usually you have to separate the engine and trans to access that plug. Is this on the XJ????

[Popsgarage]

Freeze plug locations on the 4.0. You can see the one on the back of the head that's been painted over.

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:yg_lA1JVddsJgM:http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8308/jeep42lenginefromrear.jpg&t=1

[Hypoid]

got up this morning to tinker some more and have a small puddle under rear main. Hadn't dripped a drop in previous day and a half. Upon further inspection found it to be a coolant/oil mixture.Is there coolant in the crankcase, oil in the cooling system?

[Popsgarage]

Is there coolant in the crankcase, oil in the cooling system?

If that's the case you could be looking at a head gasket.

[xaza]

Checked dipstick and inside oil fill plug and can't see any coolant. Thanks guys, yeah I pulled out old motor to find freeze plug locations. Due to where leaking is I figure it to be the one on passenger side just out of sight from access panel. Trying to drop tranny now hopefully I don't screw up too bad. Those of you that know us, know my brother is the brains of the group, I'm just the motivator. Anybody that wants to help, I'll accept offer and grill up lunch.

[Hypoid]

I'd want to verify there are no leaks from the HVAC area, first.

[xaza]

lol, once again I am an idiot. Pulled tranny and transfer case and freeze plugs are dry as a bone. Turns out water pump was leaking. Rear main is leaking though and now we can access and change it. Went ahead and changed tranny filter and emptied torque converter to get a thorough flush. Fluid was a little burned up and due to be changed. Got water pump changed out, replaced O2 sensor and oil pressure sending unit. Going to change oil pan gasket and should have a nice dry truck when we are done. All thanks to my brother, since I worked 10+ hours again yesterday I wasn't much help. Hooray for me, truck getting fixed and today is my last day at current job. Turn in my van and do my paperwork tomorrow and then I am on a mini vacation.

[xaza]

Finally got around to some more tinkering yesterday. Got rear main done and oil pan back on. Found the seal on the tranny input shaft leaking. I believe my brother said it was on the block side. Anyone know how difficult it is to replace that seal? Are there any specialty tools I need? Get this done and I should have a leak free Jeep and can get transmission and transfer case back in and make a run this weekend before I start my new job on Monday. If time allows I might get transmission cooler in too, although it won't have it's own fan...yet

[xaza]

OK brother just got home and I was wrong. It is the transmission side seal to input shaft that needs replaced. Looks to be pressed in. Anybody know the best way to get old one out and new one in?

[xaza]

Actually ended up being very easy to remove seal and tap new one in. Got transmission and transfer case back in except for one bolt that got misplaced for tranny, with daylight will likely find it right where we thought it was. Sorry no pics because we were in the dark by the time we got started.

[xaza]

Got things mostly back together today. Replaced oil pressure sending unit since it was leaking. Also replaced the O2 sensor that got ripped out of the plug...oops. While finishing up the tranny install came across a new project. Passenger floor board has a rust spot that has been overlooked and managed to get all the way through. Could see plastic undercoating to carpet from under truck. The hole is only the size of my finger but the damage is likely worse once we get in there to clean it up. Sprayed the bottom with some hammered to slow things down until we can get around to this project. Have been wanting to remove carpet and coat inside and out of bottom with Raptor Liner, looks like it is moving toward needing it. Checked over rest of floor pan and sprayed down all other rusty spots. Not very many and the rest were just surface rust so fortunately we just have the one patch. May be needing some help with the welding the one patch though. Was wondering about the underside, should I remove factory coating or just clean it good and paint over it?

[xaza]

Got things mostly back together today. Replaced oil pressure sending unit since it was leaking. Also replaced the O2 sensor that got ripped out of the plug...oops. While finishing up the tranny install came across a new project. Passenger floor board has a rust spot that has been overlooked and managed to get all the way through. Could see plastic undercoating to carpet from under truck. The hole is only the size of my finger but the damage is likely worse once we get in there to clean it up. Sprayed the bottom with some hammered to slow things down until we can get around to this project. Have been wanting to remove carpet and coat inside and out of bottom with Raptor Liner, looks like it is moving toward needing it. Checked over rest of floor pan and sprayed down all other rusty spots. Not very many and the rest were just surface rust so fortunately we just have the one patch. May be needing some help with the welding the one patch though. Was wondering about the underside, should I remove factory coating or just clean it good and paint over it?

[xaza]

Ended up getting around to disk brake conversion today. Of course got called in to work and missed some of install. Had to remove drum brakes and then pull axles. The Dana 44 is a non C clip axle so we had to press off/replace the bearings and seals to slide on spacer which shifts axle out to make it line up for disk brakes. The four axle retaining bolts needed to be tapped out for the longer ones that came with the kit. The disk brake backing plate then had to be installed and axles back in. Put rotors on and installed calipers. Whole job was done in a day by Wylie mostly by himself. E brake lines got replaced and are a bit long but we were able to route them to work. The steel lines will need to be replaced with some shorter ones but are routed to work for now.

[ctracy5]

Looks great, I would expect a pretty big change in how the truck brakes.

[The StRanger]

:thumb: Nice :thumb:

[Popsgarage]

How'd the shakedown run go????? Notice any difference????? E-brake any better/worse, stopping distance better?????

[xaza]

Haven't taken it out yet, will post up the difference when I do. Still have to replace tail light to make it legal again. E- brake doesn't hold as well as I was hoping but might be able to adjust it. It is holding better than old e brake though.

[ctracy5]

The one on my miata is pretty loose, which make me nervous being a stick so I always leave it in gear when parked to help out the brake.

[xaza]

Took the truck out and tested it out. The e brake is holding a lot better than I thought. It is able to stop the truck even when engaging in motion on a downhill. Also had the pleasure of driving on the slick roads from last snow storm with it. The disk brakes are a big difference. Truck stops much straighter and especially does better braking into a corner. Feels like more weight is being kept on rear tires and not as much of a dip in the front under braking.

[Popsgarage]

Good to here it's working for ya!!!!!!!!!

[xaza]

Wylie got started on new lift yesterday while I was at work. As expected we came across some issues. Both leaf spring bolts had the weld nut break loose on them. One didn't break until bolt was out and trying to put in new spring. The other side not so lucky, leaf spring still in place. We cut the bracket to access the nut, will take pictures with daylight. We made the hole just big enough to squeeze a wrench in to hold the nut. Even with liberal amounts of wd40 and the impact were unable to get loose. We will try again here shortly and if that fails we will drill, freeze and split the nut. We took some measurements to the rock sliders which is not exact from side to side (especially after bending up passenger side) The reason these springs are going in was truck was sagging on driver side and while not perfect the measurements reflect that. Drivers side - front 19.5", back 20 1/16. Passenger - front 20 5/16, back 20 15/16. Driver 26 5/8 fender to center of hub for rear, passenger 26 13/16. We forgot to measure that in the front. Will be needing an alignment after lift is in so we will change out a bad tie rod end and install a new steering gear box. I intend to upgrade steering eventually but for now am replacing with stock. Pretty funny, can kick old leaf spring while laying on ground gently enough to not move it and the other end bounces for about a minute...booooinnnggggggg :lmao:

[Hypoid]

WD-40 is a crappy penetrant.

I like PBlaster, I know of an old timer who likes a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone.

Good luck!

[88Toy]

I like PBlaster

yup. No comparison, especially when rust is the concern.

[Popsgarage]

No comparison, especially when rust is the concern.

WD-40 is a crappy penetrant.

Agreed!

[xaza]

The new blue torch wd 40 is way better than their old stuff. Watched it work it's way uphill on the threads of a rusty bolt. Have some PB blaster too and may need to try it. After soaking overnight still could not break loose with impact. Forgot today was christmas with my sister so not much done today. Got driver side leaf in but will have to drop it to put shims in when we know how much shim we need.

[xaza]

Wylie is still on vacation and got a little accomplished today and even took some pictures. He managed to get the bolt on passenger side free and leaf spring in. He got coils in also. About 2" total lift. We still have to adjust control arms and track bar on the front. In the back we are going to need some shims which we picked up tonight.

[xaza]

Have made some decisions on a few more things and have started the ball rolling. Wanting to have truck ready by summer to start cage. Decided to match the front bumper with the Smittybilt XRC rear bumper with tire carrier. It is a waiting game but have made deposit for when it is available.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12057_8102_07.htm?sgsc=C6Z06ZR1C6Z06ZR1&utm_medium=compshop&utm_source=googlemerchant&gclid=CLaCmLjVu7wCFa9aMgod-CoAzQ

I also picked up the bull bar for front bumper which I have already installed. Put some new Dickies seat covers on while I was at it. Will buy me a little time to get proper seats.

Also picked up 2 sets of 2+ perch kits from RuffStuff to move the rear axle back 1-3 inches on both mine and Wylie's trucks. We will be doing a cut and fold on the rear fenders to make room for the tires on mine, like this.
http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/pages.php?pageid=12

Found some 400 amp circuit breakers to use for the winch and hope they will work good for it. Picked up 4 of them because they were cheap. If they work and get my thumbs up I will post up any extras I have.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281239454037?lpid=82

[xaza]

While waiting for rear bumper decided to get next project in motion. Got the frame stiffener extensions and y-link from TnT customs. Should help me get a little more flex.

[xaza]

We managed to get a bit accomplished today. Got belly pan bolted up into place with t-case skid. Four of the bolt holes get re-used from cross member. The other 2 holes were drilled but not tapped. Unfortunately since mine had been reamed out we were not able to use hardware in kit for that. With taking t-case drop out that left my bolts too long so had to get some bolts.after setting belly pan into place and bolting 6 bolts in bottom had to place upper support brackets and t-case skid into place to make marks for holes. Belly pan has 2 bolts on each side that go through the frame with a crush sleeve and 2 more for t-case skid. Transferred marks from inside frame rail to outside and drilled the outside to 3/4" to accept sleeve. The outer support brackets were not needed since I have the 3/16" inch frame stiffeners but I used them anyway.

[xaza]

Managed to get a little more done. Have the control arms fitted in place and drivers side bracket has been removed. Lots of fun. Will have to do more work for frame stiffener extensions but have movement of control arm. Will likely need to trim more after flexing.

[Hypoid]

That looks like a pain in the arse! I guess I'm getting soft in my old age. :)
http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35967&stc=1&d=1394864372

[Hypoid]

I just looked for pictures of your front axle. Based on what I see in those pictures, it would be a good idea to beef up the passenger side UCA mount. I welded a passenger side UCA mount back on a D-30 for a guy who was running the Y-link. After that repair, I heard of other people having the same problem.

One of the characteristics of radius arms, is that the axle wants to rotate as it cycles through its travel. The bracket for the factory four link, was never intended to bear that torsional load.

[Java]

Looks great!! those y-links are too cool.

[xaza]

Thanks Mike that helps a lot. Not sure if my mount is stronger than the D30 but wouldn't hurt to reinforce it now while welding in the frame stiffener extensions. Will be calling Jon (popsgarage) to set up a time for that. I did talk to him about a week ago and he is doing good. We are probably making it a lot harder on ourselves and making extra cuts trying to be careful and not cut frame. We are using a 3" cutting wheel, grinder and reciprocating saw depending on what will fit where. Should have the other mount off today and then can set the arms where we want them. Will try and get put back together and test drive today. 21 more minutes until the neighbors Jeep alarm clock goes off. :lmao:

[Hypoid]

If the bracket is also welded on the inside, it is significantly stronger than stock. Boxing in the front would also help. I've seen pictures of the mount supported on the sides, like a mini truss. I'm not sure how far you need to go with your combo.

[ctracy5]

This looks great. Can't wait to see these trucks on the trails again.

[xaza]

Thanks Chris. Ironic I was watching our Metberry Run just last night and was thinking it's been a long time since we hit a trail together. Look forward to it. Got stuff set and just have to torque down all bolts and will be ready for test drive. Will finish up tomorrow when it is a bit warmer. Mount removal time was cut in half for passenger side. Looks like we will need to still do some trimming to get full flex. Need longer shocks or will have to mount limiter strap higher. On a side note learned how fast a grinder goes through a glove, oops. As for pictures, not really much. Brother being smart ass and saying "look he does work on his own truck". Daughter asking more questions and getting more involved.

[glacierpaul]

"Look He Does Work On His Own Truck".....:lmao:
Turning Out Sweet Cliff, Can't Wait To Wheel With You Guys Again!

[Cr33p3r]

Looks like some nice upgrades Cliff.

[xaza]

Thanks Paul, look forward to gettin out with you again also. Got home at the same time as a delivery truck today, thanks Frank. Managed to get a little bit of wrenching and cussing in too. Had to remove the old bumper, hitch, gas tank skid and exhaust bracket. Installed the brackets and slid the bumper in place. The brackets were too long and had to be trimmed to allow the bumper to slide all the way in to align with holes. Still have to assemble tire carrier and mount it as well as put the gas tank skid back in, might get it done tomorrow if I am lucky. Sorry last pictures of bumper hung in place didn't turn out too good.

[Brucker]

http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=36030&stc=1&d=1395465794

Good looking pup!

I would compliment your handiwork as well, but as you said, the photos are tough to make out. Smittybilt Rear?

[xaza]

Thanks, yep the new Smittybilt.

[glacierpaul]

Sweet Cliff! How Is Chief?

[xaza]

He is doing great. Has been seizure free for over a year with one exception and that was because we missed a medicine time.

[JeepWrench]

Really nice xj build, looking foward to getting on the trail with you

[xaza]

Got a little bit done today but cut short by the snow. Got the tire carrier hung after much more work than necessary but will follow up this post with a review on bumper.

[xaza]

Smittybilt XRC Rear Bumper with spare tire carrier review/help
After getting through the majority of my bumper install I thought I would write up a review on the installation of this bumper to hopefully help prevent others from the headaches I went through.

First hang up was with the mounting brackets for the bumper. Bumper came with nice nut strip that lined up perfectly with the frame holes. Mounting lined up great except for re-installing gas tank skid plate. Skid plate is held on by two bolts on each side. One hole on bumper lines up perfectly with one hole on skid but the other hole is covered by both the mounting bracket and the nut strip. This is a bumper that is going to be used for off road situations and designed for such use and should anticipate that an off road vehicle will likely have this skid in place. We intend to pilot the hole and install with a self tapping bolt. The skid will need to be marked and cut to allow for bumper bracket coming out from underneath at the corners to the rear of vehicle.

Next issue came also with the mounting brackets. When installing bumper onto brackets they bottom out into the back of the bumper before bolt holes are lined up. We used a grinder to trim the end of the bracket to allow clearance to line bolts up. Be sure to allow metal to cool and repaint where you grind to prevent rust.

The mount for tire swing was next issue. The cam plate for adjustment did not fit into the bumper. From the welding of the support plate the metal had warped at the ends causing it to pinch the plate. Just a little filing down with cutting wheel we got the cam plate fitting nice and snug but able to turn (this part is very important). If you have to do this be sure you don't take too much off and not too much on one side or the locking bolt will not fit in place.

Final issue we have come to is the thickness of the washer for the striking pin. It forced the strike pin out too far causing it to hit the tire carrier and prevent it from closing. This may have been due to issues with cam plate but the solution was as simple as using a thinner washer for install.

The mounts for the trail jack do not sit straight and I have not checked to see if that will be an issue yet. The u bolt does not want to sit straight because of the bracket hitting a weld and the other side it is on a sloped section of bar. Will see if that is an issue when installing jack.

Overall I do like the bumper and look forward to hitting the trails with it. Am a little concerned about the strength of the tire swing pivot but will test it out. The instructions were terrible and need improved. One section in particular is the install of the straps for the water/gas cans. Another was the light tab install.

[CS79bronco]

I like the look of how the tire carrier fits into the bumper, but how much would it take to bend the bumper so the carrier would not fit properly.

[xaza]

It is very finicky about where the striker meets the carrier so I could imagine it possible to be an issue but the bumper is very sturdy at 225 lbs. I have dropped onto the front bumper and not even scratched through the paint and the back is every bit as stout. I would imagine if there is an issue it would be from bending the tire carrier.

[xaza]

Got some help today and managed to hang tire and jack. Taught the importance of, and how to use a torque wrench. I personally do not like the way jack sets and may end up modifying it to stand upright in the middle. It is a swinging menace sitting the way it is and won't fit flipped around.

[xaza]

As of this week I am now working a new schedule that will allow for more days off to hopefully get some of the little things I have been putting off. In the mean time I decided to give us another project to work on, fitting my new tires! I opted to go with the BFG AT's this time. We started by taking off factory flares and will be looking into some new ones. Looks like we can move front axle forward to give a little more room and the back axle moving back will make for some more room there. Will be making the call this week to see when I can get frame stiffener extensions and leaf spring perches welded on.

[EKXJ87]

XJ is looking good :thumb:did you biggie size your tires from the previous set?

[javaman34]

Looking good. Want to do my Bronco next?

[Stu]

Nice shoes!

[xaza]

XJ is looking good :thumb:did you biggie size your tires from the previous set?

thanks. Went from 31x10.5 to 35x12.5. Third pic in last post shows old and new tires compared to each other. Kinda funny because I had finally lifted it enough to stop rubbing the 31's :D

[Tnsejed]

Nice man! The increase to 35"s will be huge.

[xaza]

Surprise surprise surprise, I got sidetracked and started another project today. Not liking some of the layout and am looking forward to designing final rear rack. Decided with the bigger tires I need to be able to air them up after a trail run. At same time I am installing power inverter. Have to wait for inverter to be delivered, should arrive next week. Going to use one of the 400 amp circuit breakers for power. Decided to go with the Cobra 5000 watt max, 2500 continuous.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Cobra-CPI-2575-5-000W-12V-DC-To-120V-AC-Power-Inverter/10746778
Did get the compressor installed. It is 120v, 150 psi, 6 gallon pancake. Opted for a 25 foot self retracting hose. For the 120v power I installed a 100 ft self retracting extension cord (no pics of this yet) to allow power to be used away from vehicle. Will have to install a new end on it before it will be ready for use.

[ctracy5]

I thought your Jeep was nice the first time I ran with you guys, can't wait to see what it can do now.

[xaza]

Thanks Chris, looking forward to running with you again also. It has been really nice to see how things have come along with your Trooper. I might be able to make it out for your shakedown run testing out new locker.

[Funrover]

Coming along great!

[xaza]

Got back on track today and implemented the second phase of my weight reduction, fender trimming. We basically followed the cutting instructions for the Bushwacker cut out flares. Made enough room for tires to clear fender but brought to light a new issue. Control arm is hitting drive shaft when flexed. We have some pinion angle changes and axle position changes and then will figure out bump stops from there. On the rear fender we cut notches in fender and massaged the tabs inside the fender.

[glacierpaul]

Very nice Cliff!!! Love the stacked tire flex maker :) , glad to see you putting your girl to work too:thumb:

[xaza]

Got all these tires around here may as well put them to some use. She is very eager to help out. We recently learned she is likely inheriting a Cherokee from her mom when she get's a new car. I have already made it clear that I am not building her a truck and if she wants it done she will have to be out there helping. Hard to believe she is only a few years away from driving, should be enough time wrap the truck in solid steel and bubble wrap.

[glacierpaul]

Crazy how fast they grow up!! I meant to say she is getting tall! Very cool she may have her own Jeep! I love the wrap idea! If my fleet is still running :) , my kids will have their choice of one of the Jeeps.

[Java]

That looks just right on 35s. :thumb:

[Hypoid]

Hard to believe she is only a few years away from driving, should be enough time wrap the truck in solid steel and bubble wrap. :lmao::thumb:

[xaza]

Got my power inverter yesterday and got a couple hours to start on installing it today. I already had 4 gauge wire run from battery to back of truck for sound system I used to have. The unfortunate thing about the wire is it is aluminum which has a higher resistive value than copper. Decided to try and use it but am getting a tad too much voltage drop. I will get a length of 2 gauge copper to cover the extra distance I am running it also. I installed a 400 amp circuit breaker inline but since it only calls for a 250 amp fuse will add that in. Mounted it in the back where it is accessible and out of the way. It runs the grinder and rotary tool just fine showing a combined draw of 210 watts. It does run the air compressor but the low voltage input alert comes on, if it drops below 10 the inverter shuts down.

[xaza]

Got most of the work done on the truck today with a little extra necessary as usual. Started the day getting newly shortened rear drive shaft in. After removing the output seal to replace we realized that the housing was cracked and off to the junkyard to get another one. Got drive shaft in place and moved to the front of the truck. Disconnected steering, track bar, limiter straps and shocks. Raised truck up and supported frame on jack stands and removed tires to droop axle down to install extended bump stops. Still not enough room and had to use coil spring compressor but got er done. Still have to flex it out and see where it sits. Replaced steering stabilizer bracket with something a little bit more beefy. Got new sway bar bushings and installed a sway bar with Rubicon Express adjustable sway bar links. Installed skid plate (been off for months)

[Cr33p3r]

Nice Cliff! How much lift did you go for?

[xaza]

I am at 4.5 inch springs front and rear. 2 inch spacers up front and boomerang shackles for a little over 6 inches overall lift. Got it out today and have some more slight modifications to make. Rubbed rear tire once and still have to look at where. Front drive shaft is still hitting lower control arm. Will try to find a lower puck to raise bottom of bump stop up 1 inch to prevent binding. Can also find shorter bolt for control arm to give a little more room. Passenger side sway bar link is hitting coil spring so will have to look to see if control arms are set the same. Other than that truck handled fantastic on the highway and did good on the trail. Drove with one hand on highway for the first time in a long time today. Minimal amount of bump steer to be corrected with drop pitman arm. Still overheating a little on the way up, perfect all day and back home. Going to remove condenser coil to see if I have too much restriction there.

[theluke19]

Here's a few good shots from today

http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr242/lwmorris/IMG_4622_tonemapped.jpg

http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr242/lwmorris/IMG_4595_tonemapped.jpg

http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr242/lwmorris/IMG_4633_tonemapped.jpg

[xaza]

Got my new wire for inverter. Instead of stepping up to 2g I am going to run a second 4g wire. Inverter has 2 + connections and 2 - connections for this purpose. Wire is in 10 ft lengths and will need to be extended to reach original mounting location, just have to pick up butt connectors and find my heat shrink. Hooked up inverter just to test wiring and still got a low voltage after a very short time of compressor running. Compared voltage at battery and the wire was not an issue any more. Revved the engine to 1500 rpm and ran compressor no problem maintaining right at 12v. Still have to route wire but should be able to get it done this weekend. I did not like how much mud got thrown at me last weekend so I made my decision on some fender flares.
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-steel-fender-flares-xj.html

http://www.rustysoffroad.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1//9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/r/a/ra-mf502-xj-1.jpg

[Sinister68]

Love the fender flares I think I may have to get a pair myself later down the road. Thanks:thumb:

[Hypoid]

Still overheating a little on the way up, perfect all day and back home. Going to remove condenser coil to see if I have too much restriction there.Try covering/sealing the hood vents for highway driving.

I was at Doug Bell's house last week, borrowing the hood frame he used for his M90 project. On his trip to Moab this year, he sealed the hood vents and saw a significant reduction in engine temps, at highway speed. We also discussed using the front skid to help create a low pressure cell under the hood.

[xaza]

Finished up installing the power inverter and have decided I need to do something for a power station. Will plan on fabbing a bracket to move coolant overflow over and back and allow a panel to be installed where it was. Hopefully will have enough room to run power strip and 4 breakers. Overall distance ended up being closer to 16 ft and had to rev engine slightly more to maintain but at 2200-2300 RPM helds 13v stable. Max wattage draw was around 900. Got to use my new crimping tool, kinda fun after routing wire through firewall. I have the two 4g power wires running off individual breakers and one 4g ground off battery. Other 4g ground is run to chassis at rear of truck.

[glacierpaul]

Sweet Cliff! Quadratec has those cool terminal connectors with multi port possible contacts, but I bet they can be found cheaper. Fenders are way cool too!

[xaza]

Found where the tire was rubbing on the back end. It was on a section of fender we didn't trim all the way back. Made notches and folded metal over and cleaned it up with a little black paint.

[xaza]

Got the bump stop extensions installed to prevent drive shaft from binding on control arm. Also trimmed bolt for control arm. Flexed it out on some tires and appears to be no more clearance issues, although a little close.

[javaman34]

although a little close.

Just a tad. Just how much clearance is there between the tire and fender?

[xaza]

I can just get a finger in each side on the rear but can massage another half inch out if necessary. That is at full compression but the leaf springs have not settled in yet.

[glacierpaul]

Yeah Cliff, I'm thinking a trail run will flex it out better too, you may need to do that 1/2", better safe than sorry.

[xaza]

Yeah Paul I will likely end up massaging it out but because of the way I folded it over I shouldn't have to worry about the tire. Will be flexing it out soon! Got a chance to work on engine temp issue today after work. Bought new lower radiator hose and thermostat. Found the stat housing a little pitted and white deposits and decided to replace it as well for only $13. I thought we had replaced t stat when we did water pump but it appears we did not. In addition to that we found it had a 195 degree stat. Back flushed system, engine block first, then radiator and finally heater core. Put everything back together and filled it up. Added some Royal Purple Ice to give it a little help. Ran it and it would not even run above engine temp. Covered grill with a tarp and it still would not run warm. Not that hot out at 10:30 tonight so we will run it while it is hotter out and see. No pics today as we were rushing, will take some tomorrow of the housing. I finally decided on my first welding project and will be hitting that up Friday at the latest, but no spoilers :D :speechless:

[Java]

I finally decided on my first welding project and will be hitting that up Friday at the latest, but no spoilers :D :speechless:

here comes trouble... :lmao: Can't wait to see it! I like the wheel well work too. :thumb:

[xaza]

Decided to install a mechanical gauge to monitor the engine temps since the stock one is not accurate (gauge not sensor) I think I will need to make a bypass line to create better flow across the sensor but appears to be close. Reflective metal was throwing off my infrared. Created the location using the aux fan sensor port and a tee so fan can be plugged back in if needed. Also had a new exhaust put in. Was hoping to quiet it down a little but it's still pretty loud. Some time ago I had a 3" exhaust put in and had lost a lot of torque as well as creating heat issues under floorboard. Looks a lot better than that giant tip now too.

[Brad]

Looks good a Cliff!

[Shane]

Exhaust look pretty good and clean routing!

[javaman34]

Looking good.

[The StRanger]

Nice...
I like the power converter ..

[xaza]

Found some 400 amp circuit breakers to use for the winch and hope they will work good for it. Picked up 4 of them because they were cheap. If they work and get my thumbs up I will post up any extras I have.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281239454037?lpid=82

As much as I hate to give bad reviews I will have to say these things are garbage. I have 2 of them splitting the load a 250A fuse handles. They trip well before 400A and the handle to reset broke off both of them. If someone wants to do the math to determine when they trip feel free, 900 watts at 120V through power inverter, breaker on 12v side.

[xaza]

Back to getting some work done today. Got my Currie Currectlync steering installed. Also put in a longer drop pitman arm to try and alleviate a bump steer I created with last lift. While at it I figured was good time as any to replace steering gear box. Just a re-manufactured stock one. The stabilizer mount that we had used on the Rusty's steering was too big for the tube so we had to use a piece of hose to make it work. The Currie is more solid and big enough to fit without a bushing! The shape of the steering allows full steering without any contact on front diff. In fact at full steer it has almost as much as the Rusty's had when straight. The stabilizer would hit the drag link before but looks like that issue has been resolved as well. Alignment adjustments are going to be much easier now too.

[EKXJ87]

Looks good Cliff, Tomorrow's weather is going to be just as nice to work on the jeep or put up Christmas lights, I vote Jeep!!
Continue on!!

[Shane]

Looks good!!

[gm4x4lover]

Did you drop the track bar as well. In the picture the steering linkage and the track bar look to be running at different angles.

[xaza]

Not recently. When I switched to the RE track bar, I changed the mounting bracket at that time. They are slightly off I think, hard to tell for sure because I can't see a straight line and the track bar is curved. I thought they were dead on before but that was when it started to bump steer. It could also have just been the slop in the Rusty's steering or the fact my toe was off. Will take it for a test drive on the way to alignment shop tomorrow.

[xaza]

Got the truck out yesterday for a test run. Put front skid plate on after alignment and found as we were about to pull out of the driveway that the steering was hitting it and took it back off. Going to have to trim skid plate I think. Got truck to the trail and found Drop pitman arm hits the sway bar when turning left. Going to have to make a more permanent place to hold sway bar out of the way but not pulled all the way up. Other than that the truck drove amazing. I got home from a day of driving without my hands cramping up from gripping the wheel so tight. I have to say the Currie steering seems to be a much better steering than the Rusty's.

[xaza]

Next big thing coming in Spring :D Not going to say exactly when in case things need to change. After having the perches sitting here for a few months waiting I have decided move the axle back 2".
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/2PLUS.html
Have had the front extensions for frame stiffeners since installing long arm and am going to be getting them installed at same time. Like these.
https://www.tntcustoms.com/sites/default/files/styles/product_display/public/products/DSC01319.JPG?itok=x1OJxinz

This work is getting done while truck is in the shop getting it's cage. It is going to tie in the rock sliders, fenders, bumpers and roof rack. It is a safety thing for me and my family and needs to be done right which is why I have selected Brucker Brothers to do the work for me. I wanted to wait until I had some pictures or something but I am so excited I was about to explode.

[theluke19]

LOLOL epic.

[MultiScuf]

Epic

[glacierpaul]

Sweet Cliff!

[Brucker]

This work is getting done while truck is in the shop getting it's cage. It is going to tie in the rock sliders, fenders, bumpers and roof rack. It is a safety thing for me and my family and needs to be done right which is why I have selected Brucker Brothers to do the work for me. I wanted to wait until I had some pictures or something but I am so excited I was about to explode.

Cliff, it's statements like this and clients like you that make my job worth it. Having the ability to bring excitement and anticipation to people put a smile on my face and warms my soul. In fact, the only better feeling I get, is when I finish the project and get to see that anticipation turn into reality. So thank you! Not just for your excellent choice in fabricators ;) but for your kind words and the pure appreciation you show towards our shared passion of wheeling!

[EKXJ87]

Congrats Cliff!! can't wait to see the finished product GO XJ's !!!!!:thumb:

[Brad]

Awesome Cliff! :thumb:

[xaza]

Got to work wrapping up some loose end projects on truck before it goes in. Still need to take care of a lot more but this should get me good enough to hit a trail tomorrow and should resolve the noises. Found shock that had worked loose as well as some of the belly pan bolts. Reminder to tighten yur junk. Found the bushing for track bar worn and replaced. Found rear U-joint toast and replaced. At same time replaced leaking rear output seal on t-case. Picked up a replacement switch for locker but did not get it installed today. Got an amazing deal and picked up a pair of chains. First pic is with Wylie's tensioner (blue one) second is mine. I like his better and will likely get some like them.

[xaza]

Got under truck yesterday to tie up some more loose ends and found there was more carnage from Yankee Hill than I thought. Originally it was CB stopped outputting and fan switch for heater broke in low position. Found centering pin sitting at a funny angle, yep sheared it off. Ended up drilling a hole through broken piece in axle perch, tapping it and running a bolt through to push out head of pin. Couldn't get a long enough centering pin on a Sunday so we pulled the pins from old leaf springs and got it back together. We resisted the urge to add the additional 2 leafs so we will be able to measure ride height before and after. Eventually we got the brake lines routed better but still not secured down. I had already run to JY on Saturday and picked up replacement heater control. Could have picked up just the fan switch but I like to have an extra anyway. Got that replaced and had fortunately thought ahead to cut and bring fan switch wiring harness. Switch had burned up bad and had to remove about 5 inches of wire on each lead. Spliced in new harness once it wasn't 4 black wires and got it back in. While in the dash got the locker switch replaced. Didn't get as many pictures as I thought I did.

[xaza]

In preparation for truck going to shop I decided to clean out the back today. Easy access to inner part of fender now, hopefully helps to reduce the amount of bending and twisting Aaron will be having to do. Will build and install metal shelf when truck gets back. Also planning on leaving carpet out and using bed liner for interior.

[MultiScuf]

Whats it getting in the shop?

[xaza]

It is getting the cage built, axle moved back a couple inches with some new perches, and the front extensions for frame stiffeners.

[xaza]

The truck is officially at Brucker Brothers shop, will post pictures as I get them. Should have truck back in a few weeks and then it will be time to get it trail worthy again.

[SynergyXJ]

Nice build! I was looking at those +2 perches as well, so I'm looking forward to seeing how they come out on yours.

Are you doing anything about a longer driveshaft, or is the spline slip long enough for an extra 2"? Rough Country told me that theirs will not extend the extra distance.

[xaza]

Thanks. I will be having to address some issues with the rear drive shaft. Later model Cherokees have slightly longer shafts and might work to get me by for now but I expect I will be doing a slip yoke eliminator to get it on the road. Will have Bill do the shaft. Eventually I will be doing a t-case doubler or possibly an Atlas which will eat up the extra room. The rear shock mounts are needing to be modified and the main concern is if the gas tank will be in the way. I may have to upgrade to a fuel cell to get the full 3" but am hoping not. I will be able to set the perches to 1" back if I need time to accumulate things.
Any and all drive shaft needs go here
http://www.billsenglewooddriveshaft.com/

[dieseldoc]

nice cliff. pics pics pics.
nice to see a few builds gettimg more done.

[xaza]

Got a little update. Start with a couple before pics, or rather I will mix em in to keep it interesting :D

[xaza]

A few more pics as things are progressing along.

[javaman34]

Lookin good.

[Stu]

Looks good! Gonna do a comp cut on the fenders?

[dscowell]

Nice work! So out of curiosity what angle did you set everything at I can't really tell.

[SynergyXJ]

Good looking work! I'm also curious if you're doing a comp cut - my cut makes me want to do the axle move that you did. Looks like you could use a little more space back there...

I'm also curious about that rear driveshaft, doesn't look like it's connected yet, but I'm looking out!

[Brucker]

So out of curiosity what angle did you set everything at I can't really tell.

As compared to what? It would be dependent on what the pinion angle was as compared to the perches. And that was set based off numbers that wouldn't mean anything to you. Best way for me to describe it is that the new perches were set +5 degree toward the front than the stock perches. This allowed us to achieve a proper pinon angle while eliminating the need to use any shims with the current springs.

Not to take away from Cliff's entries but here is a quick run down of what I accomplished thus far:

Dropped out the rear axle. Took spring packs apart to remove shims. Found one side center pin to be badly bent and unusable. Ordered new pin and replaced it. Measured and made all the necessary calcs for the new perches. Cut off the old perches, cleaned up the axles tubes, laid out new perches, and tack welded them into position. Then enlarged the center holes in the new top spring plates as they were too small as is. Assembled the rear of the truck back together and set it on it's own weight to check pinon angle and shock clearances. Will have to do something about the two rear bolts through the new spring plate. Seems they are designed to use a thicker spring pack, so the bolt will actually bottom out against the axle tube before it can apply proper tension. I have a couple extra washers in as a temp fix. Will either be cutting the bolts down or using a thicker washer setup (lock nut with hardened washer).

Next it will get new shock mounts located higher up on the axle to keep the underside of the axle nice and smooth for less hang ups. Then the axle will come back out again and get welded up solid. Then reassembled once again. Then we move on to rear body work. Enlarge the rear wheel wells and start to rework the rear fender armor. Then we will move onto the exo.

That should about sum up what is in store this go around. I will let Cliff continue to update. Just saw this in and thought I could answer a couple quick questions while I was browsing the board. Hope that this helps!

[xaza]

Thanks Aaron, please feel free to jump in and explain anything you want. I am posting the pics but skipping the narration.

[SynergyXJ]

Next it will get new shock mounts located higher up on the axle to keep the underside of the axle nice and smooth for less hang ups.

This is another thing I've been thinking about doing. I haven't taken measurements, but just eyeballing it, it looks like if I move the mount up ~3" then I would need to either move the upper mount or use a shorter shock, as my travel would be limited by the mount being 3" closer to the end of the main shock body. Basically loosing 3" of potential shock travel. Do you guys have thoughts on that issue or is it a non-issue with your particular shocks?

[xaza]

I don't figure it will be an issue since I don't fully compress my shocks. If it is an issue it is easily resolved with new shocks and knowing what my full compress length is and full extension length.

[EKXJ87]

Looking great Cliff! I cant wait to see the rear stretch in person you've gain quite a bit of rear tire clearance. are you running 35's?

[xaza]

Thanks Steve, I am planning on continuing to run 35s. They used to ever so slightly rub on both front and back of rear fender, 1" back should have given the clearance for the 35s. Since the rear of the fender is being fitted for the 35s at 3" back I would guess at 2" back I would clear 37s, possibly with a little bump stop since I have none in the rear. Original plan and build was for 35s, I don't think I would trust my axles for a 37" tire so stepping up would include an axle/gear change and clearing the front to work.

[xaza]

An update
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z-1vNWmqkV9gjdb_SKMm0_mkXwh3RpiqHlucx4T4ZI8=w815-h458-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c4MCinVqzjjL-HcEiPbLh8TBddWgutTZoKM5Nt8OpaQ=w815-h458-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/unJU-NgXXlwTL42xSh7GgiVaYNs28GAlUdJscSsOq-c=w815-h458-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o2KTOzb6zVobNWFaljJsba5F2aBiIgAJoacZbpQEYQI=w815-h458-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xIBQhxqBSiAnb2scsE1Dv6vAoo_WrleJWZ-2n8ln1E8=w815-h458-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dba0rrvkAEAu4Ntt0i4_EcZ5ATfinLoBlZkyc_k5FWc=w815-h458-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sqQClrGobAIscS_nunvP-VEZaU2_j8GGeFmg5vaHlz4=w815-h458-no

[Java]

this is great!! :thumb:

[EKXJ87]

Cliff that looks awsome !
Do you have a parts list/vendor of what it took for the stretch, also what are the plates in picture 4 for? Im going to have to add this mod to my XJ sure makes for a OEM look on the 35's

[xaza]

The plates are the top plate for perches. It has 3 holes for the leaf spring centering pin to set into to give it 1, 2 or 3 inches of adjustment. Instead of 2 u-bolts it uses 4 bolts to clamp axle to leaf spring.
Perches
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/2PLUS.html

[xaza]

Some more pictures of the fender work

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KlhHNWm2AqcyPsl0OwN1ryrqkPDGMezUWRHwSOE-MRE=w815-h458-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8Pme-1YtBLEDEhbFfyJ64Muiab2WmNSKactxW5ATv40=w815-h458-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jRZNn8jDpFDj5OE83Yv6VZB68MjqrR6oDXwvm0b0McU=w815-h458-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/faj6jPCLi8mQ9Rp4-5JRIZ7LD-PpADyDx2GBXrHwQ1k=w815-h458-no

[dieseldoc]

looks good cliff.

[SynergyXJ]

Looking good man! I like the idea of shifting the fenders back like that; I think all I've seen before is slit and bend like mine.


I don't figure it will be an issue since I don't fully compress my shocks. If it is an issue it is easily resolved with new shocks and knowing what my full compress length is and full extension length.

Oh yeah, duh. I can just max out the flex and see how much travel is left :thumb:

[Hypoid]

Is there a problem with bump stops?

[xaza]

No problem with bump stops, I just prefer not to limit articulation. They are necessary sometimes though, I have 5-6" in the front to prevent tire rub.

[xaza]

Anybody like pictures
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lEiWyY_2lNgLHrn3T8eCDuN6A-WGzci8D5W_R1Awc44=w1019-h573-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H0HG04kf581YZc7ZGo7Gcec3K0uF1Pyh_WHxAyxKXls=w1019-h573-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zCPN-IeufW-550tcq6x12UxA_cLE9OI73beJqVOKirs=w1019-h573-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/reftJWint2WWnPPNbuvKypKj1kJEdsfH4LbinQR2G4M=w1019-h573-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RhuAJlJhr5B8rkuPU9VdBkHoo4uGT-c6cjPmx4ofXX4=w1019-h573-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EhzfqkYMY1nFy4OU7dsIDsa1DM7QOMFYjKtWlehk1Us=w1019-h573-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2LWeu9ug1ccQ7EGmmDrO78B-Y2BerMSOa9XfpgpdH88=w1019-h573-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/En576pPTKv_w26ABKAgayBhvwHU3029fG6mhEZZGpaA=w1019-h573-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qo_TNIE1S1XgtsCI7enqOvFxz2Dtk-d9J8NRQbxid7c=w1003-h564-no

[EKXJ87]

Nic Pics Cliff its a very clean modification :thumb::thumb: