2 Speed Taurus Fan Wiring

[xaza]

I just drew up this diagram to use for wiring my 2 speed Taurus fan for my XJ. Can some wiring gurus check it over and make sure I got it right? I know it draws about 32 amps when on, but does anybody know the start-up amps? I am doing this to eliminate the belt driven fan, should I eliminate the auxiliary fan also? It is the fan out of a 3.8L.

[Talus]

I am interested in your electric fan conversion as well; unfortunately, I am not an electrical guy. But I did find this:

http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTaurusFanInstall3.htm

The writer claims the fan draws 85 amps on startup. Hopefully, this will be of some help. Good luck and let us know how it goes! :thumb:

[Hypoid]

I'm going to drink more coffee before I tackle the diagram. It reminds me of the PLC software I had to learn at Red Rocks. :p

I did a lot of reading when Errinjan had some questions about his equipment. There were so many claims about current draw, I went to the junkyard and looked for ratings on the Taurus, and Volvo fans. Then, I looked at the size of the wire, and the ratings on any fuses assigned to protect the fan circuit. I don't remember the ratins on the associated fuses, but I do remember the wiring was relatively light, maybe 14GA in the harness.

I have some more questions about the desired operation, but I need to get off the computer for awhile. :redface:

[Hypoid]

OK, I found the thread that got me started on fan wiring: http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?17227-2-Speed-Taurus-fan-in-a-TJ

Second, I slipped my brain into solid state mode and assigned the coils to the contacts. :)

Third, it looks OK to me. I just had a few ponders about tying into the stock wiring and running with a few different parameters.

Fourth, have you done a power audit? Even my stock, 100-amp output, drops the voltage when I'm driving in winter.

[Jim]

Looks decent to me.

By making a quick transition (fan should still be rotating from the low speed ops) from Lo to Hi you would not, I'd suspect, need to fuse for an off/stopped to Hi current draw condition (unless you get to a failure condition of not having any low speed and need to go from off/stopped to Hi).

[xaza]

If I kill the engine on an obstacle while fan in high starting back up fan will go straight into high. In regards to the power, I currently have an alternator that runs 27 amps higher than stock. From when I had a 1500 watt stereo with a 1 farad capacitor. I am working towards a fully capable trail electrical station. Going with mean green alternator and a dual battery.(second battery is waiting until after snorkel). I am looking at either a 2000w or 3000w dc to ac convertor. I have a spare electrical reel with 50 ft cord going to install in back. Will be able to run impacts and grinders and such on trail. (microwave even :D). Oh yeah and maybe a winch too :2thumbup:

was contemplating having the temp switch wired hot to allow fan to run until it shuts off, but I have a second fan wired to a toggle switch that I can control.

[Hypoid]

I think that if the LRA of the high speed windings were an issue, the engineers who designed the systems have planned for it. That is what got me to the junkyard, looking at wiring that is not that robust. Pretty much a minor issue to me.

[Jim]

LRA? (Load Run Amperage?)

As for having an always on / auto / cutoff switch (possibly used for the rare deep water crossing) is version 2 of the project.

[Hypoid]

Locked Rotor Amp draw: It is the high number you see on a motor's electrical ratings.

[Jim]

Ah, thx.