Cherokee 4-link coil conversion

[trailfiend]

Call me crazy. I've found myself wanting to do a 4-link on the jeep.

I'm oogling over the Clayton Offroad kit, when I stumbled upon these:
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Dual-frame-link-mount_p_1164.html

And these: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/4-link-adjustable-Ballistic-joint-mounting-system_p_1165.html

As well as frame-side and axle-side coil mounts (axle side mounts w/ integrated LCA mounts too!).

Has anyone done their own 4-link? Any tips, suggestions, etc.? Did you do the calculator online, or wing it? If ya got some photos of how you did, please share. I'm a visual learner.

[Cr33p3r]

Alex i started buying parts to do a 4 link and haven't made anymore progress as of lately. Some pf the parts I have are from Ballistic which is a pretty good company and good parts to deal with.

[xaza]

Frank did a custom one and could likely answer any questions you might have

http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?17181-My-4-Link

[Popsgarage]

If you do something like the Ballistic frame end mounts, you'll need to use some sort of uni-body stiffener! Welding that type of mount directly to the rails isn't the best idea. It looks like Frank bolted his to some existing/factory nutserts.

[ccbruin]

I was going to do a 3 link on the front of my TJ. I had all the parts and such, but then sold the jeep. Id recommend 2x2 .25 wall square tubing as it is a lot cheaper and still very strong. Maybe Jon still has the parts he bought from me?

[ccbruin]

Also, unless your into extreme wheeling, I would just look at a kit out there and basically just mimic their dimensions on the arms, spacing, angles, etc. That calculator can get realll confusing and when i was doing mine, i really wasnt too concerned with getting anti-squat, etc. numbers too dialed in.

[xaza]

Here is a good set of frame stiffeners that I am looking to get on my Jeep this Spring.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/XJRAIL.html

[Popsgarage]

That stuff is long gone. Sean's the new owner of the three link stuff I got from you, Alec. He's gonna do either the rear of the '57 or the rear of his Ranger. And I'd agree with Cliff on this one frame stiffeners. RuffStuff stiffeners spread the weld load over a far greater area than other brands.

[xaza]

woohooo, I got one right :lmao:

[Hypoid]

It looks like Frank bolted his to some existing/factory nutserts.That is just 'cause Frank has a fetish for clean workmanship. :)

If you look close, you can see extra material on the sub-frame.

What you can't see, is that the bolts on the vertical face probably go all the way through. I have seen him make sleeves to go through the sub frame and prevent crushing. That is how his T-case crossmember is secured. I would not be surprised if he did the same here.

Frank changed employers recently, I expect this affects his time online. I shoot him a PM over at NAXJA.

[Serious Offroad]

Yep, Closed down my HVAC/R biz and got a job with a regular payday.

The unibody frame rails on my heep are fully boxed from the forward leaf spring mount to just aft of the front wheels with 3/16" box tube.

The long arms are located via the two OEM cross member mounting bolts and there are two 9/16" Grade 8 bolts per side that go through the frame rails.

The rear cross member for the four link is mounted the same way.

[xaza]

The bolts going through the frame rail, did you have to sleeve them to prevent crushing the frame rails?


oh yeah....um congrats? on the new job.

[Serious Offroad]

Thanks.

As I said, the frame rails are fully boxed (3/16") Sleeves aren't needed.

[Hypoid]

I stand corrected! :)