LS1 swap into a '88 Toyota

[88Toy]

I mentioned in my intro post about swapping a LS1 for the TBI 4.3 and now that the project is progressing (it'll never be 'done'), I will post up. First, a little history. It's colorful, to say the least.

I bought the truck new and drove it stock until the factory warranty expired. First, I added a 4in chassis lift with 33 in. tires. Those tires exposed the need for lower gearing, so I chose 4.88 R&P's with a rear ARB and front Lock Right added while in there. I got wind of a bumper manufacturer not too far from where I lived at the time and, after a couple phone calls and a trip north, I had a new Reunell bumper, custom made, on the front with a Warn XD9000i within. The truck worked really well in this configuration and it stayed that way while exploring trails all over northern California, my favorites being the Rubicon, Fordyce Creek and my secret spot on Hell Hole reservoir.

One weekend, with a bed full of dirt bikes and camping gear heading toward the mountains on I80, we heard what sounded like a bunch of rocks dropped into a blender. It didn't take long to figure out the stock 5 speed was toast, a failed counter shaft bearing.

This left 2 options: One, replace the transmission (boring) or, swap out the whole engine and transmission for something better. I ended up with a salvaged 4.3 TBI and a 700R4. I figured that while I had the transfer case on the bench, I might as well do that too. I liked the dual case thing, but opted for the 4.70 gear set instead in order to keep it "simple'. A call to Marlin had a box on a UPS truck headed my way. This guy is awesome and he took good care of me. I was pretty happy with the truck and it was especially fun when, on one camping trip, a lady approached me with a flat tire on her bicycle asking if I had any way to inflate it. I said,"yup", threw the switch for the compressor and a minute later had her on her way. Life's little pleasures.

A couple years later, I decided to swap out the IFS front for a refurbished solid axle from a '85 truck. The ARB, Longfields, rear disks and 35's completed that project. I ran the truck that way for several years, learning all about the weak links inherent to the 700R4 and also about the problems associated with a 3in body lift.. Clutch packs, Sun shell and upgrades to the planetary sets along with a reverse pattern manual valve body solved the tranny issues, and the body lift reduced to 1.5 inches solved those issues as well.

A worn out 4.3 with 2 dead cylinders left us where we started the latest project. I always wanted a V8.

A swap of this magnitude required unusual access, and I had an idea.

The under hood shot before:
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-15/1360972721_truck_015.jpg

I thought a tilting clip would be a fun way to address the access problem. Shouldn't be too big a deal...
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-15/1360972777_clip_3.jpg

First thing was to strip everything from the engine bay not welded down (and some of that, too) and remove the bumper
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-15/1360972818_hood_1_004.jpg

The winch previously mounted to the bumper and now had to mount to the frame.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-15/1360972884_hood_1_001.jpg

The bumper mount brackets had to be modified to allow the bumper to pivot about the lower mounting bolts
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-15/1360973027_img_3581.jpg

Bumper remounted with up stops and down stops located
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-15/1360972911_hood_1_011.jpg

And tested
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-15/1360973067_hood_1_013.jpg



Next, the wheel well cut lines had to be determined. I wanted to locate these lines as close to the firewall as possible which would bite back later on.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-15/1360973127_hood_1_008.jpg

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-15/1360973156_hood_1_006.jpg

Before the cuts were made, bracing had to be installed in order to maintain the original shape. I welded the brace to the sheet metal everywhere I could and made it so that it would all bolt to the bumper.

The results were positive, the clip swings nicely and with the hood taped in position, it balances surprising well
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-15/1360973336_clip_002.jpg

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-15/1360973360_clip_1.jpg

What I really like about this is that the clip is easily removed as a unit, allowing full access to the front chassis.:D

[Patrolman]

That is SUPER SLICK! It was so much better than I was expecting! I like the craftmanship and thought put into it.

[4Runninfun]

very innovative. Can't wait to see how you manage to stuff that in there!

[The StRanger]

I put a z flip front on the old Effy
I know... Its not as easy as it sounds...

[Jim]

replace the transmission (boring) or, swap out the whole engine and transmission for something better.

LOL - a project where simple=boring!



the problems associated with a 3in body lift.

As one with a larger body lift (and not finding any problems where MANY say it's taboo), I'm curious what issues you had with your larger body lift...

[Chris]

I like your start.

LOTS! :thumb:

[Java]

WOW!!! :thumb:

[Rick]

thats awesome.......

[Popsgarage]

How'd cutting the fenders so close to the firewall come back to bite you? Lookin' good by the way, can't wait to see a 5.3 liter sittin' under the hood!

[Brad]

Very cool! :thumb:

[88Toy]

I put a z flip front on the old Effy
I know... Its not as easy as it sounds...

Thanks to all for the kind words.
Yeah, I know my hair is thinning on top because of all the head scratching while asking myself, "wth did I do that" or "why didn't I do it that way". Next one will be easier.
Any pics of old Effy?

[The StRanger]

Thanks to all for the kind words.
Yeah, I know my hair is thinning on top because of all the head scratching while asking myself, "wth did I do that" or "why didn't I do it that way". Next one will be easier.
Any pics of old Effy?

New member thread. Just some random pics

[tonkatoy]

great looking build love the tilt front

[The StRanger]

The hood opened normal
Remove the safty pins and the hole front fliped
It also worked as a sun screen...
I think I have those pics on my old lappy
I'll have to look..

[Cr33p3r]

Cool to see someone else doing tilt front ends guys, I like the work you have done so far keep it up! I have done 2 tilts so far both of them on 2 of my '57 F100s. Got any pics of the inner bracing you built?

[88Toy]

As one with a larger body lift (and not finding any problems where MANY say it's taboo), I'm curious what issues you had with your larger body lift...


I would never in a million years call a body lift taboo, and I should have chosen my works more carefully. Sorry 'bout that! I should have referred to my own situation. I got hung up in a tight section at Moab once, and wound up with the fan into the radiator which I blame equally split between my driving method and the the body lift. I now have steel spacers, 1-1/2 long welded to the frame secured with grade 8 bolts.

[Funrover]

Pretty slick!

[88Toy]

i appreciate all the favorable comments! Now, the fun really begins.

The engine is an earlier LS1 that came out of a Corvette. I was looking for a later model but this one came up and was a good deal. I chose the Corvette over the Camaro engine because the alternator is mounted high which meant no conflict with the steering box (well, sort of).

Shoving the old aside to make way for the new
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-18/1361226029_4.jpg

Uncrating
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-18/1361226081_project_001.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-18/1361226113_ls1_2.jpg

Rear sump pan and pickup tube installed, transmission temporarily attached and going in to see if this whole thing is even gonna fit
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-18/1361226292_img_3499.jpg

Initial position using the same front mounts and stock cross member. This was too good to be true! Lots of room in back, and well, we'll deal with the radiator later...
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-18/1361226377_wonw_2.jpg

Reality strikes back. The steering pump pulley landed right over the fluid ports on the box. The only feasible solution was to slide the engine rearward snug against the firewall plus a little custom fitting work on the box. I chopped up a couple 90* JIC fittings and welded them to the end piece resulting in a very tight 90 off the box, providing enough clearance for the pulley. Good for radiator clearance as well. So much for the stock mounts.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-18/1361226442_wonw_6.jpg

I fabricated new fwd mounts and found I wasn't going to be able to use the original cross member which needed replaced anyway. The new one is good for nearly 2 inches of added ground clearance.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-18/1361230328_ls1_progress_2_006.jpg


With the Camaro manifolds bolted up, I could see that exhaust clearance was tight but there. Good thing too, because I was in no mood for frame notching.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-18/1361226507_mounted_002.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-18/1361226637_mounted_005.jpg

Engine and transmission mounts established, phase 1 complete.

[RidgeRunner]

That's gonna be sweet!

[Patrolman]

Nice work! Making it look easy.

[The StRanger]

Got any pics of the inner bracing you built?

I had all my elec modules under the dash (Behind glove box)
The batts (yes two Optima's)under the bed
I cliped the inner fenders off and Replaced them with farm trailer fenders
I think it look goooood !!!! No extra bracing needed..

[88Toy]

How'd cutting the fenders so close to the firewall come back to bite you?

I'll explain a bit later.


Cool to see someone else doing tilt front ends guys, I like the work you have done so far keep it up! I have done 2 tilts so far both of them on 2 of my '57 F100s. Got any pics of the inner bracing you built?

Those pics are buried somewhere in this box, still trying to find my way around this Apple. It's a nice machine, but a little different and I'm hardly what you could refer to as a computer wiz...I'll get 'em up ASAP.

[88Toy]

No extra bracing needed..

Hey, Sam I had to laugh! Here's the difference between older American metal and newer import (or any other for that matter) stamping. My fenders would flap in the breeze like wings on a bird without the bracing!!!

[ctracy5]

That things is gonna be crazy when you get it running!

[lateralj]

very cool :smokin:

are you worried at all about that much power going to those toyo mini axles?

[88Toy]

very cool :smokin:

are you worried at all about that much power going to those toyo mini axles?

Thanks, and, no. I think the ring and pinion gears are the weakest link here and there's no doubt one could blow these differentials with one quick full throttle application. I guess this will be a good test of my right foot discipline.

[88Toy]

Here ya go, Sean. The frame is made from 1-1/2 angle and 3/8 tube. Right now, the hood bolts to the frame from the bottom, I may weld it later. I'm working on latches to hold the bumper against the up stops.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-19/1361324239_img_3888.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-19/1361324293_img_3891.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-19/1361324646_img_3894.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-19/1361324559_img_3900.jpg

[Patrolman]

Nice work!

[Popsgarage]

Way to cool! Gonna be sweet! I really like the bracing and the front tilt! Clean and easy access to the engine! What're ya gonna do with the ol' 4.3? I could really use the valve covers and some other hardware! I might even have a buyer for the whole thing if you have no other plans for it!

[The StRanger]

Hey, Sam I had to laugh! Here's the difference between older American metal and newer import (or any other for that matter) stamping. My fenders would flap in the breeze like wings on a bird without the bracing!!!

Ya, Now that I think about it
Those inner fenders where about as think as a new car bumper !!

[The StRanger]

Here ya go, Sean. The frame is made from 1-1/2 angle and 3/8 tube. Right now, the hood bolts to the frame from the bottom, I may weld it later. I'm working on latches to hold the bumper against the up stops.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-19/1361324239_img_3888.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-19/1361324293_img_3891.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-19/1361324646_img_3894.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-19/1361324559_img_3900.jpg

I do like it, The bracing works...

[88Toy]

Way to cool! Gonna be sweet! I really like the bracing and the front tilt! Clean and easy access to the engine! What're ya gonna do with the ol' 4.3? I could really use the valve covers and some other hardware! I might even have a buyer for the whole thing if you have no other plans for it!

Thanks! I passed the 4.3 on to its new owner already. It had all kinds of issues and the blown head gasket was the boulder that broke the camel's back.

[Popsgarage]

Damn. Oh well. I'll find some of the goodies you had on it one of these days. Lovin' the build, by the way. What's the displacement on the 'Vette engine, what year, etc.?

[88Toy]

This engine is a 350 (or a 5.7 for the PC crowd) that came out of a wrecked and certainly thrashed '98. HP in the 310-320 range. Weight is close to that of the 4.3.

[Popsgarage]

Should be super sweet.

[xaza]

As a thought, could you use a set of hood shocks to assist opening hood and hold it against stops?

[Cr33p3r]

Thanks Les for posting the pics, looks great and even gave me a few ideas for the tilt on my '57 F100, currently I am planning on using the truck latch assembly from a mid 80s or 90s caddy since it is electric and raises the hood once the unlatch button is pushed/or cable is pulled and when closing it locks and then lowers into place.

The 1st pic shows the radiator support I made and the 2nd shows the clip tilted open(its an old old picture) 3rd is the latch & motor assembly

[88Toy]

As a thought, could you use a set of hood shocks to assist opening hood and hold it against stops?

Not a bad idea, but not really needed here. All it takes is a light tug on the bumper to swing the clip once its all unlatched, but....


... the truck latch assembly from a mid 80s or 90s caddy since it is electric and raises the hood once the unlatch button is pushed/or cable is pulled and when closing it locks and then lowers into place

...this WOULD be the ticket!!!

[The StRanger]

As a thought, could you use a set of hood shocks to assist opening hood and hold it against stops?
To heavy for hood shocks ?
I used old convertable top hydr rams ..
Switch the hood hidges to the front of the frame and add the rams !!!

[Cr33p3r]

Here is video of how the Cadillac latch works;

http://youtu.be/1hLC_2IucEw

[88Toy]

OK, time to get back on track. The tilting clip created the need to find a way to mount the radiator. Job 1 was to situate the radiator as far forward as possible, well past the factory cross brace, which I removed. I replaced it with an offset cross member made of steel angle
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-25/1361839153_img_3902.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-25/1361839212_img_3903.jpg

I originally thought I would have to bolt the bottom of the radiator to the frame then run rods from the top back across the engine to the firewall. The more I studied this, the less I liked it. So, back to the drawing board I went. I started designing upright braces, one on each side that would bolt down in a 'T' shaped fashion that would provide lateral as well as longitudinal stability.

I settled with this as a start point
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-25/1361839029_brace_sketches_2_5.jpg

and wound up building these supports. I began with 1/4in. aluminum plate for the backbone then added laminates of .050 2024 T3. They bolt down to the lugs I welded to the frame.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-25/1361839286_img_3907.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-25/1361839348_img_3909.jpg

[88Toy]

I made these upper brackets for holding the radiator steady as well as providing the required hold down
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-25/1361839457_img_3911.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-25/1361839535_img_3912.jpg

It's a very sturdy mount that allows full articulation of the clip
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-25/1361839582_img_3913.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-25/1361839655_img_3914.jpg

[Patrolman]

Nice work! Top rate craftmanship!

[The StRanger]

Those rad suports look a lot better than my welded up bed frame suports...

[tonkatoy]

That is clean work. great job

[lateralj]

man those supports look great. This is going to be an awesome build :)

[88Toy]

Thanks for all the nice comments and for suppressing the bad ones! I guess the aircraft mechanic in me has manifest itself in a lot of different ways. This is a lot of fun, no deadlines, no limitations (except the $$$)

Thought I'd do a little inside-the-warm-house work on the engine harness while the snow falls.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-02-26/1361922675_img_3921.jpg

I had a couple tight injector leads and the overall bundling really wasn't right so I unwrapped it all and rearranged the routing in such a way that should improve everything.

[Brad]

I love proper wiring! :thumb:

[Chris]

I guess the aircraft mechanic in me has manifest itself

Are you an A&P Les?

[Popsgarage]

Lookin' good! Really dig the radiator supports! Great idea on laminating the layers.

[88Toy]

Are you an A&P Les?

Yes, Chris. Been with the 'friendly skies' for 24 years and several years of GA before that.

[94ToyBear]

Les, what type of Fuel pump and fuel pressure are you running ?Trying to decide if I want to keep the Tahoe’s original pumpor use the Tahoe’s gas tank and all ?

I would like to stay away from external pumps.

[88Toy]

Adam, it is a Walbro 255 which has a pressure rating of 80psi, or so. I got lucky with it because I was able to remove the stock Toyota pump and install the Walbro right in it's place with minimal modification. I think the LSx series require about 65psi. About as easy as it gets!

[94ToyBear]

That's exactly what I wanted to hear. !! Thanks. Where did you order your pump from. ?

[88Toy]

I really don't remember where I got it from. Shop around, because I found prices vary wildly for the same pump. I might have got it through Amazon.

[94ToyBear]

Found one on Craig's for 75. Is there away to adjust pressure throughtthroughthe pump or it depends on fuel pressure regulator?

[Popsgarage]

Try these guys, Adam. The link takes you to their fuel pump. Better than a Walbro, and that takes a lot for me to say, as I've been a fan of their stuff for a long time. They also sell Walbro pumps as well.

http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-4783563-hfp-255lph-fuel-pump-chevrolet-r20-pickup-1987-1991.html Their pump.

http://www.highflowfuel.com/c-173059-fuel-delivery-performance-fuel-pumps-assemblies-walbro-255lph-intank-fuel-pumps-chevrolet.html Walbro pump on their site.

[94ToyBear]

Try these guys, Adam. The link takes you to their fuel pump. Better than a Walbro, and that takes a lot for me to say, as I've been a fan of their stuff for a long time. They also sell Walbro pumps as well.

http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-4783563-hfp-255lph-fuel-pump-chevrolet-r20-pickup-1987-1991.html Their pump.

http://www.highflowfuel.com/c-173059-fuel-delivery-performance-fuel-pumps-assemblies-walbro-255lph-intank-fuel-pumps-chevrolet.html Walbro pump on their site.

Thank both you and les. I'll look in to it all. I'm going to pull my pump soon so I can get a better understanding of how it connects

[Popsgarage]

There should be no need to get an adjustable regulator, since the system is a feed through and return, if I remember correctly. Voltage from the ECM controls the pumps output which controls the pressure, again, if I remember correctly. And the GM pump is one of the easiest to adapt to other makes and models.

[88Toy]

Try these guys, Adam. The link takes you to their fuel pump. Better than a Walbro, and that takes a lot for me to say, as I've been a fan of their stuff for a long time. They also sell Walbro pumps as well.

http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-4783563-hfp-255lph-fuel-pump-chevrolet-r20-pickup-1987-1991.html Their pump.

http://www.highflowfuel.com/c-173059-fuel-delivery-performance-fuel-pumps-assemblies-walbro-255lph-intank-fuel-pumps-chevrolet.html Walbro pump on their site.

Dang it, Pops, where were you when I needed you? Thanks for the tip.

[Cr33p3r]

I really like those supports! And there is nothing worse than a wiring harness that isn't layed out very well, I usually redo some of mine to for the same reason.

[88Toy]

Hey, Sean, is that 'neutral cognitive software system' another term for what us regular folk refer to as 'T&E'?

[Cr33p3r]

Some what, more like just plain using my brain to figure it all out and if I don't suceed the first time try again!

[Hypoid]

regular folk refer to as 'T&E'? That took a minute for me to comprehend; more coffee! :lmao:

[ctracy5]

I can't believe how easy you make this look.

[88Toy]

Trust me, it's all in the editing! Ever watch Bruce Willis then say to yourself, "I could do that" ...There's a Pink Floyd song where you hear, "Wrong, do it again" that definitely relates to this project. So far, just about everything has required a redo but it's a learning process that I've adopted, I call it DAF (Design After the Fact)... ;-)

[94ToyBear]

Les. I lost your number. Mind textn me ? 720 626 7695

[88Toy]

With the engine, transmission and radiator situated comes the task of connecting everything.

First was the lower radiator hose. The original water pump pulls water through a thermostat housing that pointed forward and outward from the pump body which would have required a tight bend in a flexible hose in order to make radiator connection, which is unacceptable.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-05/1362509056_truck_2_008.jpg

The solution was to modify the 'stat housing itself. I chopped off the nipple, then welded on a 120* section of 1-1/2 aluminum tubing taken from a 180* bend. I then made a clocking ring out of 1/4in. aluminum plate which allows the housing to rotate downward, clearing all obstacles. GM's use of o-rings made this easy.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-05/1362509144_img_3509.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-05/1362509191_img_3508.jpg

A short hose connecting another 180, then a 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 adapter(with a tap for a drain fitting), then into another short hose that now aims straight at the radiator outlet
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-05/1362509643_img_3511.jpg

[Chris]

Nice! Great to see your approaches to what would seem to be major problems for many of us!

[Fordguy77]

Awesome Work!
I hope the 302 going into my Sisters 4runner goes, and looks so smooth.

[Cr33p3r]

. So far, just about everything has required a redo but it's a learning process that I've adopted, I call it DAF (Design After the Fact)... ;-)

I like that! I am going to have to adopt that one!

[88Toy]

Thanks!

Plumbing in the steering pump was next. For cost considerations, I'm using as many original components as possible and found the GM fluid reservoir would mount nicely on the LH upright
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2012-11-14/1352906664_img_3529.jpg

Then it was a matter of connecting the tubes. I use AN fittings where ever I can. It's a 37* flared tube design that's been proven over several decades of aviation and industrial use as a reliable connection. All new tubes are stainless steel.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-05/1362512568_img_3588.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-05/1362512255_img_3586.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-05/1362512170_img_3523.jpg

I plan on adding a heat exchanger a little later on.

[88Toy]

Awesome Work!
I hope the 302 going into my Sisters 4runner goes, and looks so smooth.

Has this project started yet? Sounds like a good one.

[Fordguy77]

Has this project started yet? Sounds like a good one.
Its starting sometime this summer. Ive spent the last few years doing research on how i wanted to build the 4runner, but then decided to sell it. My dad ended up buying it off me as a joint venture project for my little sister. As of right now i have a 5.0L to rebuild, and a rebuilt ford t-18 4spd to mate behind it. Still weighing the options on the t case, and a axle swap. As of right now i have 2 setups i could use and run a driver side drop np205 or 208, but it kills the options as far as tcase gearing goes. Hopefully can get it all figured out and started sometime soon.
End Hyjack

Keep up the good work! Always cool to see a V8 in a older yota!

[88Toy]

End Hyjack

Hyjack away, my friend! This is all about thoughts and suggestions. Who knows how many ideas were spawned by seemingly unrelated comments? I guess somewhere in the trillions. Besides, I asked.

[88Toy]

The tilt clip made relocating the batteries necessary. There was really only one logical place to put them- inside the LH frame rail behind the cab. I made a box out of aluminum and mounted it to lugs welded to the frame and cross member
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-06/1362667211_nov14_4.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-07/1362671817_ls1_progress_2_5_039.jpg


It was also a good time to clean up unneeded wiring inside the cabin.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-06/1362667616_img_3666.jpg

With the harness exposed, unused circuits were ID'd and carefully removed
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-06/1362667374_jan2012_2_007.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-06/1362667412_jan2012_2_008.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-06/1362667441_truck2_016.jpg

The relay block also had to be relocated behind the driver seat against the wall
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-06/1362667540_ls1_progress_2_5_040.jpg

I'm not completely thrilled with this factory fuse/relay block and will improve on this a little later. Promise.

I had to figure out how to run the engine and front harness through the firewall. I really wanted to be able to disconnect the engine harness in order to facilitate engine removal (just in case that ever happened...), and came up with these Weatherpack bulkhead connectors. I hoped to find something with a 90* backshell, but couldn't. The answer was to recess the connectors far enough to allow the harness to bend and be secured tightly against the firewall. In earlier text, I mentioned that where I cut the fender well would later bite, here is where it did. I should have left more room for harness clearance during hood swing. It turned out OK, but just made more work.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-06/1362667696_wiring_001.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-06/1362667779_img_3603.jpg

I thought it would be a good idea to install a master cutoff switch as well
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-06/1362668006_img_3598.jpg

It all cleaned up pretty well
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-07/1362672547_img_3599.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-07/1362672626_img_3601.jpg

The smoke test comes next with battery connection and power up...

[ctracy5]

Wow, just wow, I can't believe how cool this is. Looks like you real did your homework before you started.

[88Toy]

Thanks! Yeah, that's my excuse for this project taking so long.

[94ToyBear]

Les, do you have any Vid's on your rig befor the 4.3 swap and when you were running the 4.3 ?

Project is looking great!!

[Fordguy77]

Hyjack away, my friend! This is all about thoughts and suggestions. Who knows how many ideas were spawned by seemingly unrelated comments? I guess somewhere in the trillions. Besides, I asked.
Like the attitude. How was the ToyCase holding up with the 4.3?

[Fordguy77]

Incredible wiring work, I hope i can learn the patience it takes to under go such a task with wiring.

[88Toy]

I'll share the most important lesson regarding electrical work: save the beer drinking 'til afterward!

[Rick]

save the beer drinking 'til afterward! along with anything that requires removing a lot of stuff and having to remember where it goes the next day:confused::confused::confused:

[88Toy]

along with anything that requires removing a lot of stuff and having to remember where it goes the next day:confused::confused::confused:

...now where'd I put that bottle opener...

[88Toy]

Les, do you have any Vid's on your rig befor the 4.3 swap and when you were running the 4.3 ?

Project is looking great!!

Thanks, Adam. I don't believe I have a single video, I'll have to climb into the attic and dig out the camera to find out. I always had a hard time interfacing the camera with computer, so never got real interested in vid's.


How was the ToyCase holding up with the 4.3?

The 4 cyl. case has been perfect. Some time ago, I added Marlin's 4.70 gear set and never looked back. It never knew it was behind the 4.3. This new engine won't alter my driving style off road and I think it will do just fine.

[88Toy]

I felt the need to relocate the rear brake line to inside the LH frame rail in order to open up space along the RH rail for the 1/0 cables I routed for the starter and winch, plus fuel and trans fluid lines.

Another large component to find a place for was the transmission fluid cooler. Once I mounted a trans. fluid temp gauge, I became aware of just how hard wheeling is on a slush box with the limited cooling at crawling speeds. I picked up this radiator, made a frame and mounted two thermostatically controlled pulling fans that should do the job. As it turns out, the space next to the battery box was perfect for mounting.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-08/1362759334_truck1_015.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-08/1362757773_img_3594.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-08/1362757838_img_3596.jpg

Another bonus here is the added quantity of fluid (about 10 gallons, judging from the size of the puddle on the floor) in circulation.

[88Toy]

So with all the big stuff roughed in, it was time to pull the engine out and set it on the work bench for fuel lines and exhaust.

I used 3/8 stainless for the fuel lines and connected them with MS (a type of compression) fittings. I got real lucky that I could match fittings to the rail tubes because they were too short to flare.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-08/1362784442_img_3945.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-08/1362784495_img_3947.jpg

For the exhaust, I started out by making flanges from 3/8 steel plate for manifold hook up. A trip to a local exhaust shop yielded several bent sections of exhaust tube from which I cut the required sections needed.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-08/1362784560_img_3470.jpg

Once done and in place, it became clear that if I ever wanted to remove the exhaust with the engine in-frame, then it would come out in pieces. I thought about bolt together flanges, but then found these couplers. They use a v-band clamp and they work great without gaskets.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-08/1362784617_img_3472.jpg

During all this, I learned just how bad my welding sucks with thin metal...

I am a little concerned about heat damage to the shift cable and the only thing that came to mind is a heat shield and maybe some insulating wrap, if necessary
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-08/1362784729_img_3660.jpg

[Fordguy77]

Where did you pick up the Vband clamps? Looking good.

[Popsgarage]

Where'd ya pick up the exhaust tubing!

[88Toy]

Where did you pick up the Vband clamps? Looking good.

I picked these connectors from Summit. Aircraft engines use this type of connector for all kinds of tubing and ducting, so we know they work.


Where'd ya pick up the exhaust tubing!

I just walked into the shop in Brighton and asked for a couple 90's and and a 45 or two. Paid by the foot plus the bend. Pretty cost effective.

[Popsgarage]

Good to know, I'll keep that in mind since I'll be doing some exhaust modding on the wife's '94 S-10 Blazer when the Dana 30 goes under the front.

[Fordguy77]

I picked these connectors from Summit. Aircraft engines use this type of connector for all kinds of tubing and ducting, so we know they work.



I just walked into the shop in Brighton and asked for a couple 90's and and a 45 or two. Paid by the foot plus the bend. Pretty cost effective.

Yeah, Ive always liked that clamping style, and have run into a few times here and there at work. Just never looked to hard into finding them on the consumer side of life! Thanks for all the ideas and tricks your showing off here.

[88Toy]

Absolutely. I hang around a lot of talented people and absorb all I can. Jon was the first I know of to SAS a IFS Toyota (a D44), AND a 4.3 conversion. Mark built a buggy with a LS1/ TH400. There's a lot of inspiration that went into this truck that originated in someone else's and if one or two of my (our) ideas end up in someone else's rig, that's all the better. OK, enough already!

I can't count the number of times I removed or installed a transmission/transfer case, and some of the methods used were outright dangerous, especially working alone like I normally do. I had blocks stacked on top of my floor jack, requiring a delicate balancing act that didn't always work out. Another time, I built a fixture to mount on said floor jack with similar disastrous results. Then one day, not too long ago while in Harbor Freight, while looking for a work stand for the scooter, I pulled the trigger on this. It's even the right color!
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-09/1362862610_2_t__trans__jack.jpg

Why does stuff like this take so long? Why did I not do this 20 years ago? It certainly would have prevented a very sore shoulder and more than 1 fluid baths!

[88Toy]

Good to know, I'll keep that in mind since I'll be doing some exhaust modding on the wife's '94 S-10 Blazer when the Dana 30 goes under the front.

Hey Pops, can't wait for this! Is it already the right width?

[88Toy]

So, with engine back in (I do love that tranny jack), a couple issues surface. One of the things I've been putting off, hoping it'll just go away, is where to mount the coolant recovery tank and the windshield washing fluid reservoir. I shopped all over looking for something that could hang on the firewall, to no avail. I got to looking at the original tanks and found a really good spot for both of them, right where I had the air filter.

Air filter OUT, reservoir tanks IN. First, the mounting brackets. A little 1/4in. Al plate, a couple hole saws and a rivet gun
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-09/1362862731_img_3940.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-09/1362862785_img_3530.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-09/1362862840_img_3532.jpg

The other issue to resolve was the upper radiator hose. My plumber neighbor helped sweat a copper tube that routed up and over the throttle body, ending with a high point higher the radiator cap. Can't have that. I decided to sacrifice the flawless solder joints for my own attempt at soldering. The new tube routed further aft, crossing over at a dip behind the throttle body placing the whole thing slightly lower that the cap. A miss is as good as a mile... Leak checks forthcoming.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-09/1362862980_img_3651.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-09/1362863025_img_3653.jpg

I'm not crazy about the new air filter layout, but given the circumstances, it's adequate and should ​clear the hood.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-03-09/1362862891_img_3540.jpg

[Patrolman]

Nice work! This has been a great build!

[88Toy]

Thanks, Jeff!

[4Runninfun]

wow this is really coming along! Can't wait to see the final product!

[Popsgarage]

Hey Pops, can't wait for this! Is it already the right width?

Yes it is. The original '94 GM 7.5 10 bolt is long gone, replaced by a GM 8.625 10 bolt from a '98 ZR2. The WMS to WMS on the later axle is 63" which is the same a the Dana 30. All the goodies except for a truss. I'm running it spring over, WJ steering knuckles and associated steering and brakes, Off Road Evolution axle sleeves and knuckle gussets, RuffStuff perches and diff cover, Moog ball joints, tie rods, tie rod ends and some other junk. Hopefully the weather holds next weekend and I can break out the plasma cutter, sawzall and grinder and hack away.

[88Toy]

I've tossed around a few ideas for a flatbed and have come up with a design I like but that will come later. Besides, I like having the original bed and the rust isn't so bad that it's unsalvageable. In any respect, battery access now had to be addressed. Maybe a dumping bed? Naaaaa....

I wanted to incorporate some type of quick access slide out tray but clearly, that was out of the question here.

I started off by lowering the bed into position on the frame and chopping a hole in the floor over the battery box
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-01-21/1421868895_img_3682.jpg


Next, I framed around the hole, tying in the bottom structure (not finished in this photo).
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-02-05/1423177917_img_3677.jpg


I cut a piece of Lexan to serve as a protective shield over the terminals and cables, then placed the lid, then finally the bed section that is secured to the frame with low profile screws
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-01-21/1421868950_img_3706.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-01-21/1421869007_img_3709.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-01-21/1421869062_img_3711.jpg


I still have to shim the floor piece to match the bed floor, that's easy. I'm planning on hooking up a cable connector, tapping the terminal block situated below the RH exhaust manifold for jumper cables or whatever.

[Fordguy77]

Looking nice and clean!

[Popsgarage]

Love the over flow/washer bottle mounts!

[88Toy]

Update!

I went to bump the starter, checking the electrical, not noticing the fuel pump was priming and the crazy thing started! Good thing it was in neutral and had oil in it. Definitely wasn't ready for that. It did run though, and that's what I wanted to see. Did the same thing when me and my buddy cranked the 4.3 for the first time. We were in his garage, it was all systems GO, didn't notice the transfer case was in low range and the transmission was in gear...2000rpm initially, not enough braking to stop the 4.70 tc/ 4.88r&p's, got the ignition turned off just before tearing out the wall between garage and laundry room. That WAS close!

The first (planned) test run revealed a check engine light, a leaking water pump and a oil pump that put out an astonishing 20 psi.

Pulled the engine, repaired a couple wiring problems, replaced the water pump and installed a new Melling oil pump and lit the fire again today. Smooth idle, no CEL, and lots of oil pressure.

With apologies to all Corvette owners...
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-04-03/1365029609_img_4007.jpg

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-04-03/1365030329_img_4013.jpg

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-04-03/1365030378_img_4014.jpg

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-04-03/1365030639_img_4019.jpg

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-04-03/1365030540_img_4017.jpg

The thing runs pretty good. I had to retrain myself on manual valve body shifting and I'm sure that I will stall the engine again at a busy intersection with the manual torque converter lockup back in function...

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-04-03/1365029655_img_4008.jpg

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-04-03/1365029760_img_4010.jpg

[Fordguy77]

Looking good! What was the CEL for?

[88Toy]

Thanks, Christopher. I found a pin pushed back in the bulkhead connector in a ground circuit in the engine harness.

[94ToyBear]

Looks great les! Maybe ill be there in the next 10 years. Lol.

[88Toy]

Are you kidding, Adam? You're making killer progress. You've got a huge following!

[94ToyBear]

Are you kidding, Adam? You're making killer progress. You've got a huge following!

Ha thanks! Thats if I stop changing my plansband buy a harness! One day. !

[Popsgarage]

Les, where do you get the orange wiring/pipe/hose clamp pieces you've got holding everything down and in place????????? Insanely clean. I love this build! And Bill told me to tell ya "Molly says hello"!

[88Toy]

Thanks, Pops. Oh and, 'sup, Molly? Get outta the barn, girl!

Those cushioned clamps are standard aircraft hardware. There's a guy (his name escapes me at the moment) who sells parts and hardware out of a trailer on the grounds of Platte Valley Airport, west of Hudson. Nice guy, good selection, reasonable prices. There's also an incredible vintage aviation museum there that's worth the trip from a thousand miles away. If you love old stuff, you have to check this place out.

[Popsgarage]

Can you get his name and number for me? I'd love to get some of those cushioned clamps for the wifey's S-10 build. Sweet way to hold everything in place and not have to worry about chaffing!

[Beefy]

This is an awesome build. I want it!


Can you get his name and number for me? I'd love to get some of those cushioned clamps for the wifey's S-10 build. Sweet way to hold everything in place and not have to worry about chaffing!

You old folk and your chaffing. :D

[88Toy]

You old folk and your chaffing. :D

Hey, there's nuthin worse than a raw spot caused by being rubbed the wrong way!

[Popsgarage]

Hey, there's nuthin worse than a raw spot caused by being rubbed the wrong way!

You got that right, Les. By the way, Bill says Molly will be out of the barn this weekend.

[glacierpaul]

Looking killer Les, wow! Wish my Rubicon had this motor!

[88Toy]

Looking killer Les, wow! Wish my Rubicon had this motor!

Thanks, Paul. You know, it could be done...I'd love to help on a Jeep and I'll have a slot available in the barn very soon! Think about it- a Jeep with a tilt clip...

[Popsgarage]

Think about it- a Jeep with a tilt clip...

HEH, HEH, HEH...........that'd be pretty sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Haku]

Sweet....this thing is gonna haul ass and should have enough power. Wanna do mine next?

I haven't been around for the majority of this build, but it looks awesome and is one of the cleaner Toyota engine swaps I've seen. After reading through your thread the other day, and then seeing this...thought you might find it interesting...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/1233562-toyota-dual-cab-hilux-ls1-hilux-turbo.html

[88Toy]

Thanks for the link. I can't imagine what that truck would feel like 'on the pipe'. Fun, expensive. I kinda wanted something trail worthy and user friendly.

[Haku]

Yeah...that thing is gonna be crazy fast but I totally agree that it might not be that great for trail riding. He is using Land Cruiser axles too, and I wonder how long they will really last under it. Those crazy Aussies seem to love taking their Yota's to the drag strip...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO-VXNKBSmc

Most of the KOH buggies are using LS motors with bolt on power adders like headers and cylinder heads and such and they do great. Lots of low end power but enough punch to get some wheel spin going too. Honestly, with this engine running well, you'll be well set to enter the Stock Mod class if you ever had a hankering to do so. Either way, it should be a great trail truck and a cool project to accomplish.

[sunk]

Sweet...its almost going to be a shame to close the hood...if the hood wasn't so cool.

[88Toy]

Thanks, Adam. Funny you should mention that. I spent all day yesterday trying secure the hood to the framework while matching up to the fenders and could have tossed the whole thing. Finally got it to where the gaps and surfaces are close to equal keeping the hood and fenders removable for potential replacement. I have a newfound respect for good body repairmen!

Starting to look somewhat civilized
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-04-09/1365541667_img_4042.jpg

[Popsgarage]

Nicey nice!

[88Toy]

So the project isn't dead, just got slid to the back burner for awhile.

Finishing the electrical, including the compressor. I really liked the belt driven York, but there just wasn't any room to mount it. So, on to plan B:
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-09-30/1380582181_img_4869.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-09-30/1380582247_img_4873.jpg

Solenoid valves and pressure switch mounted on the trans cooler stay behind the cab
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-09-30/1380582303_img_4871.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-09-30/1380582357_img_4880.jpg

Plumbed in to the air couplers on both sides. Won't be quite as fast as the York at airing up a tire but should suffice.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-09-30/1380582428_img_4886.jpg

[94ToyBear]

Looking Good Les !

[Funrover]

SICK!!
I still love this build!

[The StRanger]

Damn I realy need to get goin on mine !!

[Haku]

Sweet...looks like a really good OBA setup. Those VIAIR pumps seem to be quality units and I'm sure it will do great. I like the welding bottle air reservoir too.

I was actually VERY intrigued by a build I saw that used an electric winch motor and a York compressor and have wanted to go that way every since. Evidently since there isn't much load on the motor it can spin fast, and as long as the pulleys are sized correctly it can spin it at the correct rate with relative ease. Oasis, one of the major providers for expedition Jeeps sells a setup that uses it and it supposedly puts out enough air to use air tools without a tank, but its REALLY expensive (starting at a grand and goes up). With some probing, they found that they essentially use a 2.5hp winch motor to run it, which are easy as pie to find. Getting it to work right, on the other hand, a bit more of a project.

So in other words, if you decide not to do anything with that York, I'd happily take it off your hands for a reasonable price.

[Cr33p3r]

Les, I could use some of your motivation to get back on the 57 again. Truck is looking fantastic by the way! I can't wait to start doing the wiring on it, I actually like doing wiring as long as I have a good idea or diagram.

[88Toy]

Sweet...looks like a really good OBA setup. Those VIAIR pumps seem to be quality units and I'm sure it will do great. I like the welding bottle air reservoir too.

I was actually VERY intrigued by a build I saw that used an electric winch motor and a York compressor and have wanted to go that way every since. Evidently since there isn't much load on the motor it can spin fast, and as long as the pulleys are sized correctly it can spin it at the correct rate with relative ease. Oasis, one of the major providers for expedition Jeeps sells a setup that uses it and it supposedly puts out enough air to use air tools without a tank, but its REALLY expensive (starting at a grand and goes up). With some probing, they found that they essentially use a 2.5hp winch motor to run it, which are easy as pie to find. Getting it to work right, on the other hand, a bit more of a project.

That would be the ticket, and when I win the lotto...

Thanks for the info. That York was flawless in operation and didn't pump oil when the engine RPM was kept at high idle or below. Building the mount brackets was kind of a pain, though.

[Popsgarage]

Was wondering where you'd gone. Way clean sir!

[88Toy]

Was wondering where you'd gone. Way clean sir!

Thank you! That little fire in Black Forest turned into a real summer killer. We're just days away from pouring the first concrete on the new house, hoping the weather holds out.

[Popsgarage]

By the way, what're the electronic air valves on the front of the battery box for?????????????

[88Toy]

By the way, what're the electronic air valves on the front of the battery box for?????????????

They are for controlling the ARB lockers. The new switch panel is nearly finished, pics to follow.

[Popsgarage]

Cool!!!!!!!!! Can't wait!

[88Toy]

Cabin electrical all but finished, only took a small handful of fuses to find a mistaken connection. Not bad for me. Everything works.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-01-16/1421442756_img_5179.jpg

The front panels turned out OK, could have made a better toggle switch selection. The guarded switch is a 3 position for winch operation.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-01-16/1421442818_img_5183.jpg

Just have to wire up the radio and everything else I forgot.

[Popsgarage]

Fantastic work. Need to take some lessons from you when it comes to wiring.

[88Toy]

Thanks! I really enjoy the electrical piece (and troubleshooting...) along with the gratification of seeing things work when the switch is thrown for the first time.

I had to replace an air solenoid valve and my first stops shopping, naturally, were the well known 4x4 sites. I couldn't bring myself to dropping 60-80 bucks for one of these, so went to a couple industrial supply sites with the same part number and found one for $22 plus 6 for shipping.

Oh and, that filter element is the compressor intake. It needed a spot protected from water and mud.

[Popsgarage]

Do you have access to a press brake. Looking at some of the boxes and such that you build makes me want to buy this.

http://www.swagoffroad.com/20-TON-Press-Brake-Heavy-Duty-DIY-Builder-Kit-_p_42.html

And this.

http://www.swagoffroad.com/20-TON-Finger-Brake-Heavy-Duty-DIY-Builder-Kit_p_86.html

[88Toy]

There's been a few times I could have used a brake at home and honestly, I never thought about a set up like these. Interesting. Thanks!

[Popsgarage]

No problem. Troy makes some really good tool "enhancers". All made here in the good 'ol USA! He got his start on Pirate with just small stuff.

[88Toy]

My plan all along was to place the ECM under the passenger seat, out of harm's way and out of sight. I was so sure about this that I extended 43 wires to make it work. So with the ECM secured on trick little rubber mounts and with the seat in position, the total space between ECM and bottom of seat cushion was less than 2 inches. Dang, didn't plan that far ahead...
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-01-16/1421442992_img_3601.jpg

The new(est) location for the ECM would have to be over the tunnel in the space previously occupied by the radio. Radio removed, block off plate made and installed, and ECM situated, I think it'll work.

This was also a good time to redo the shifter console.

I've been using a generic B&M shifter that I cobbled together that's served the purpose, but I never lost the desire for a good gate shifter. Art Carr had one that I liked but cannot find one today. Ultimately, I'd like to have one with a slide away gate between neutral and reverse for those times when you need to quickly change course in an attempt to initiate plan B. Working on that. In the meantime, I ditched all the old shifter mounting along with the original Toyota console and replaced them with a one piece unit fabbed from stock pulled from my pile of 2024-T3, with solid rivets. I kinda like that boiler plate look.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-01-16/1421455629_img_5212.jpg

I like the cleaner look with the simpler construction. Now, to find a spot for that radio...

[Popsgarage]

I was so sure about this that I extended 43 wires to make it work.

Ouch! That's a lot of work for nuttin!

[88Toy]

Yeah, that's the story of my life- a little trial, a lot of error!

[Popsgarage]

Are those aluminum rivets on the sides and back of the shifter console? And do you have a picture of the inside of the console?????? Very cool!:thumb:

Kinda reminds me of seats from the guys at HandMade Seat Co. http://handmadeseatco.com/v1

[88Toy]

Are those aluminum rivets on the sides and back of the shifter console? And do you have a picture of the inside of the console?????? Very cool!:thumb:

Kinda reminds me of seats from the guys at HandMade Seat Co. http://handmadeseatco.com/v1

Thanks, Pops

Those seats are gorgeous, almost like something out of a P-51. Same process, shooting solid aluminum rivets. I'll snap a couple shots next time I'm in there.

[Popsgarage]

almost like something out of a P-51

Yeah, they are! Kinda fell in love with them. And thanks for the forthcoming pictures!

[88Toy]

Finally finished the wiring to the headlights and turn signals. This nearly completes the electrical:2thumbup:.

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-02-05/1423180400_img_5227.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-02-05/1423180325_img_5226.jpg


I'm now thinking about doing something about all the trail rash and faded paint while it's still down.

[Chris]

Love your wiring Les!

[Brucker]

Looks good

[Popsgarage]

Love your wiring Les!

You and me both, Chris.:thumb:

[88Toy]

Thanks! I took about 2 hours and cleaned up the tail light harness (who's responsible for THAT hack job anyway...). All better now, lays in there nicer and, the lights still work!!!

[Popsgarage]

the lights still work!!!

Awesome!:thumb:

[88Toy]

Couldn't resist, what will probably turn out as an exercise in futility, doing a 'little' cosmetic work. It's been years since I've done any body work, so am hoping it ends up looking better.

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-11-26/1385512070_img_5231.jpg

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-11-26/1385511984_img_5229.jpg

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2013-11-26/1385511930_img_5228.jpg

I think I'll look for another hood instead of trying to fix all the hail dents.

[Patrolman]

If your body work looks better than mine, then it probably looks 1/2 decent. That is one thing I could never seem to get a handle on. Looking good!

[88Toy]

Like laying carpet and finishing concrete, this may be one of those jobs best left to the professionals. This truck has taken a real beating over the last 25 years, and I'll be happy with .5 decent!

[88Toy]

Been looking for one these for a long time. Thanks, Santa!
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-01-16/1421455690_img_5370.jpg

Hope everyone is having a great Christmas!

[Beefy]

I am seriously in love with this rig. Excellent work!

[Popsgarage]

Sweet Sidewinder!!!!!!!!! Should prevent those accidental shifts!!!!!!!!:D

[88Toy]

You got it, Pops. It was all too easy to end up in the wrong gear with the B&M, problem solved.

Back to the sheet metal shop!

[88Toy]

Mounting this shifter is turning into a bit of a challenge. I think it's going to work.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-01-16/1389907708_img_5521.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-01-16/1389907757_img_5523.jpg

[Hypoid]

I think I have rivet envy...

[Popsgarage]

I think I have rivet envy...

So do I Mike, so do I!!!!!!!!!

[88Toy]

He He...Good stuff!

Box enclosed, only have to remake one piece, then it's on to squashing more rivets. I have to bend the TC lever slightly toward the right for better clearance, no biggie. Then 2 oak knobs
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-01-17/1390004743_img_5530.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-01-17/1390004834_img_5533.jpg

[Popsgarage]

Very, very, very cool!!!!!!!!!!!

[88Toy]

Super Shifter, made in USA (Hudson, CO to be exact)

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-01-30/1391124270_img_5586.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-01-30/1391124344_img_5590.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-01-30/1391124412_img_5591.jpg

[Popsgarage]

Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!! One of these days I need to come see exactly how you do those rivets, 'cause that is so cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumb:

[Brucker]

Nice work

[88Toy]

Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!! One of these days I need to come see exactly how you do those rivets, 'cause that is so cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumb:

Doors always open and the fridge is (almost) always full!

[Popsgarage]

Doors always open and the fridge is (almost) always full!

I'll take you up on it one of these days when I have some time.

[Funrover]

You are doing a wonderful job man!


I think I have rivet envy...


Same here, for some reason I also want to put an old WWII Bomber girl paint job on that shifter box.

[Popsgarage]

WWII Bomber girl paint job

As long as she's a redhead, I say go for it.

[Jim]

Options...

http://www.pin-up-girls.org/bomber-nose-art-pin-up-girl.jpg

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/0a/08/87/0a08872cfc03e843b52d8a614dfb86ef.jpg

[Popsgarage]

:thumb:Both!!!!!!!!!!:lmao:

[Cr33p3r]

What type rivet press are you using? Looks great! I used to use one like this but only bigger it stood 12' tall and when it hit the floor shook. Its die came loose midstrike and threw the 1/4" aluminum plate right into my chest and separated my sternum.

[88Toy]

Holy Smoke!!! What were you building with that? My guess, bridge girders or wing spars? That thing looks like a real beast that bites back!

Oh and, I like the idea of the nose art. Further inspiration encouraged!

[88Toy]

What type rivet press are you using?

While not nearly as heavy duty, this setup is a bit more user friendly...

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-02-03/1391457985_img_5601.jpg

[Popsgarage]

Is the end of the bit in the air gun countersunk like the head of the rivet????

[88Toy]

Is the end of the bit in the air gun countersunk like the head of the rivet????

Yes it is, Pops. It's contoured to match the shape of the rivet head so that the driving forces are spread out along the entire head of the rivet, keeping it round. I typically use 3 or 4 different rivet shank sizes (diameters): 3 (3/32in.), 4 (1/8), 5 (5/32) and 6 (3/16). Each round head size has a matching set (the piece that inserts into the rivet gun). Countersunk rivets are driven with a flat, smooth set.

[Popsgarage]

Cool! Where do you get 'em from, if ya don't mind my askin'???

[Cr33p3r]

Holy Smoke!!! What were you building with that? My guess, bridge girders or wing spars? That thing looks like a real beast that bites back!

Oh and, I like the idea of the nose art. Further inspiration encouraged!

I was in charge of building the fan assemblies for industrial dust collectors, usually 1/4" aluminum plate sometimes on the biggest units we used 3/8" for the main plate on the fans and riveted the fins to it before we put the cones on.

[88Toy]

I was in charge of building the fan assemblies for industrial dust collectors, usually 1/4" aluminum plate sometimes on the biggest units we used 3/8" for the main plate on the fans and riveted the fins to it before we put the cones on.

I guess that's no place for small, light duty hardware. Thanks for the post!

[88Toy]

Cool! Where do you get 'em from, if ya don't mind my askin'???

The best place to find this kind of tooling is auctions, E Bay and CL, unless you have deep pockets. Check out Brown Tool or Aircraft Tool Supply. Look for a 3x gun.

[Popsgarage]

Thanks. I think I wanna learn to do that.

[88Toy]

Shifter installed, connected and rigged.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-02-15/1392494899_img_5608.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-02-15/1392494965_img_5612.jpg

The make-it-purdy phase is coming along as well
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-02-15/1392495012_img_5613.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-02-15/1392495091_img_5614.jpg

[Beefy]

I want it. :D

[Brucker]

:2thumbup:

[Cr33p3r]

You're getting really close I would say to being ready to take it out.

[88Toy]

Thanks! Yeah, I can't wait to get it out for good. Hard to believe it's been nearly 3 years since that 4.3 retirement, and even harder to believe is that I haven't lost any parts. Those things tend to grow legs...

[Brad]

Really great truck Les! Cannot wait to see the final result! :thumb:

[88Toy]

Finally got the body to a point that I can get moving on paint. I checked with a couple paint shops for a quote on paint and, well, it's back to the good 'ol DIY.

[88Toy]

With the HD list down to a manageable level, I finally have time to get back to the truck. I think I forgot everything I ever knew about paint, which wasn't that much to begin with.

The fun begins
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-02-05/1423181256_sam_0544.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-02-05/1423181349_sam_0547.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-02-05/1423181419_sam_0549.jpg

[94ToyBear]

Ill have to come by sometime and check this out ! Last time I came by was great

[88Toy]

Absolutely, Adam! You know where to find me for the next week!

[Funrover]

Wow, full body work also!

[88Toy]

Yea, it hasn't been this dent free since 1989!

[The StRanger]

:lmao:

[88Toy]

After what seems like an eternity, things are finally happening. Had a couple re-do's on the clear coat, but now have it at an acceptable finish.
Doors reassembled and glass going back in.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-09-23/1411521387_sam_0555.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-09-23/1411521306_sam_0554.jpg

[94ToyBear]

PUUUUUURRRTTTTY !

[Java]

WOW!!! :thumb: I missed a bunch of this, the console is awesome, I love the layout of the rivets. The bodywork and paint look fantastic too, it's turning out great!

[Cr33p3r]

Les that turned out really nice!

[EKXJ87]

WOW this is one sweet build! Congratulations on the progress and thanks for keeping the 80's alive!!!!!

[88Toy]

Thanks to all! It is so cool having this truck nearly done and back on the road. That light at the end of the tunnel is me on high beam!

[Brucker]

Looking great Les! Good to hear, and see, that you have been able to make progress! You are SO close. Hang in there!

[Patrolman]

Nice work! That is a great looking truck!

[88Toy]

I know what you're thinking... You're thinking,"Good God, will this thread EVER end?"

The answer: yup, someday!

Intrepid lives! Drove it around the neighborhood then back in the barn for another final check.

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-10-03/1412383116_sam_0623.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-10-03/1412383229_sam_0622.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-10-03/1412383366_sam_0618.jpg

Feels good to have it going!

[The StRanger]

Very Nice !!

[Brucker]

Nice work Les!

[88Toy]

Thanks, Aaron! I have to come up with a set of hold down latches for inside the wheel wells that will pull the hood down against the stops. I was hoping the bumper latches would be enough, no big deal.

[Brucker]

Thanks, Aaron! I have to come up with a set of hold down latches for inside the wheel wells that will pull the hood down against the stops. I was hoping the bumper latches would be enough, no big deal.

If that is the only tweak you need to make after all that work, that's quite impressive. I can appreciate all the detail work that you took the time to do that many don't. Good work!

[88Toy]

I found a pair of locking draw latches for the W/W's that looked good enough. When I unboxed them, I found they were about half the size I thought. I'm gonna use them anyway. They'll either be strong enough or they won't. Time will tell.

I mounted them on a doubler made of .080 T3 Aluminum which was *riveted* to the structure. Mounting the hooks required removing the hood, grille, turn signals and fenders in order to get a proper fastener hole location. A lot of work but the latches pull down nicely.

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-10-19/1413763457_sam_0646.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-10-19/1413763522_sam_0649.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-10-19/1413763584_sam_0654.jpg

I'm also adding rubber padding at contact points. Maybe they'll see me before they hear me!

[Brucker]

Looking good Les.

What's the deal with all the extra drilled holes in the body work just above the new bracket?

[88Toy]

Termites.

Aaron, that was where I originally placed the alignment pin and socket. It turned out to be a bad idea because every time I'd pull the hood, one side would bind despite having them lined up tangent to the pivot arc. I'll probably fill the holes with rivets.

[EKXJ87]

Looks great!:thumb: I would hope after all your hard work you would hear the LS1 first! :eek:

If you have trouble with those latches check out www.mcmaster.com/ , Pull Action Toggle CLamps #5071A51 or the Turn to Open Draw Latch #1406A71 I use this one for fluid boxes I make and they seem to secure well.

Note sure about securing a hood but the "working limits" should be more than needed.

[Java]

I missed the "finished" shots when you posted them, my jaw just dropped when I saw them. That is one of the nicest Toyotas I've ever seen, and the work is sooooo clean. :thumb:

[88Toy]

Looks great!:thumb: I would hope after all your hard work you would hear the LS1 first! :eek:

If you have trouble with those latches check out www.mcmaster (http://www.<strong>mcmaster</strong>).com/ , Pull Action Toggle CLamps #5071A51 or the Turn to Open Draw Latch #1406A71 I use this one for fluid boxes I make and they seem to secure well.

Note sure about securing a hood but the "working limits" should be more than needed.

Thanks, Steve. All kinds of goodies there. Spotted a couple latches there that would have been a better choice.

[carpenle]

Wow looks amazing Les! :2thumbup: Great job.

[The StRanger]

I like the latch system. Will there be some type of Insulator or rubbing or is a tight enough to restricted it ??

[88Toy]

I like the latch system. Will there be some type of Insulator or rubbing or is a tight enough to restricted it ??

Thanks, Sam. The upper latches tightened things up considerably, so I'll see if the rubber insulators are still necessary. My guess is that they will be. Always something!

[CS79bronco]

Looks like a new Toyota, until you swing that front up! Beautiful work!

[Brucker]

Termites.



Pesky little buggers. Hate it when that happens. Rivets should fill the holes nicely.

[88Toy]

The new battery location created difficult access for connecting jumper cables or what not, so I added a cable disconnect up front
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-10-29/1414626913_sam_0661.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-10-29/1414626995_sam_0664.jpg

It's all tucked away and out of harms way with easy access from the side. I cut off the clamps at one end of my jumper cables and attached the other connector half.

[Brucker]

Looks great! I actually run them front and rear on the majority of my vehicles. I then have a couple different winches on receiver hitch mounts that can easily be added to any of the vehicles. The only thing I might add to your setup is a large amperage kill switch/cut off switch. This will keep the plug from always being energized and could save you from some HUGE issues later on. Though this might already be done as it is hard to tell from the photos. Anyways, looking good!

[88Toy]

Thanks for the comment, Aaron. Mounting the batteries midship, I knew the drawbacks of long, always hot leads running to the front, not my favorite set up. The leads are clamped to the structure every 12-14 inches along the way and are routed up and away from anything sharp or that moves. That new lead off the chassis hot to the plug is as short as I could make it. I'm considering adding protection around the plug if it turns out to be a good location. I really wanted the plug FWD of the crossmember, inside the bumper but couldn't find a feasible way to route the lead through the crossmember. I'm not done with this one yet. Kinda still in the development stage and all comments welcome!

Been driving the truck and so far so good with all interior lighting issues resolved. The thing really scoots! I just have to install new shocks, cup holders and a way to enjoy a little Metallica.

[88Toy]

Finally got tired of hearing myself sing and found a way to mount the radio with a stainless steel faceplate. Much better! The interior is back together except for the vent registers which will be the last to install as they're hard to remove without damage. The all important cup/junk holders installed as well...
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-11-19/1416441760_sam_0693.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-11-19/1416441864_sam_0694.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2014-11-19/1416441950_sam_0696.jpg

[88Toy]

A few more miles on the road reveals the tendency for death wobble still exists. The problem occurs because of the cross over steering and the fact that there is no lateral stability at the front axle over and beyond the leaf springs.

My plan is to fabricate a track rod with easily accessible rod end bolts for quick trail removal. There is a good spot on the LH frame and there's space below the oil pan and behind the ram
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-01-31/1422763451_sam_0791.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-01-31/1422763547_sam_0789.jpg

I sat down and put a couple ideas to paper, trying to keep all the geometry proper while not creating more problems than I solve
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-01-31/1422763612_sam_0799.jpg

The frame bracket is easy enough, but I'm having a little more trouble figuring out the best way to mount the axle end. My first idea was to modify the spring plate with a set of lugs but then started thinking about the dynamic loads imposed on it. I then thought about welding a bracket onto the axle housing hump which would make for a shorter rod
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-01-31/1422763677_sam_0787.jpg

Looking at this picture, that outer axle tube might hold possibilities for a bracket. I'll definitely have to change the bump stops.
I'm open for comments and suggestions

[Haku]

I definitely see the benefit of a trackbar, but they can be fairly tricky to get right with a flexy, longer travel leaf spring setup. Its certainly doable, but you have to be really careful about getting the geometry correct or you'll have binding and breakage issues even just driving it on the road and disconnecting it for the trails. At the least, follow the rule of thumb that guys building 3 link coilover suspension systems do and make the Trackbar the same angle as the drag link for the steering. Not always easy to do, especially when you have limited space above the axle.

This is what I mean...
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w286/rudytj/64-1II.jpg

Deathwobble issues usually come with the caster angles being off. Sometimes its easy to fix with caster shims or playing with shackle length, but it might take a "cut and turn" to get right if its REALLY off. Your stuff doesn't look like its extremely off, so its worth looking at the caster angle before you get too into this Trackbar thing. I suspect that it might not go away even with that done if it is down to the steering system.

[94ToyBear]

I agree with Josh on this Les.

I never really ran in to DW on a solid axle with leafs, only thing I ever came across DW is when my wheels are full of snow and un balanced
But thats just unbalanced.

[88Toy]

Thanks, Josh, Adam. I've been studying this for a while now, looking at the angles and such. I've seen solutions with bushings, rod ends, shims, stabilizers, etc. There doesn't seem to be a cure all fix since everyone is different. I agree that caster angle is important. I don't think my caster is off judging from a visual check and that with the ram disconnected, steering characteristics are normal. If it was, I would think the DW would happen more frequently than it does. As it is, what sets it off is hitting a bump or pothole (I know, there's really none of these around) with one side which I think pulls that wheel back slightly, pulling the axle to that side against the drag link and springs. The centering tendencies result in over compensating to the other side. I've played with this and can duplicate the condition. It's most likely to occur in the 40-45mph range, although haven't tried forcing it at higher speeds... All this is why I'm looking at the track rod. If it doesn't work then we'll have documented proof. What I really need are bigger, wider tires, more offset, more (honey, I need that D60 after all...)

I think I can recall long ago my father telling me not to go modifying that suspension...

[88Toy]

OK, I put the track rod idea aside for now and am focusing on the caster angle. All my research on this reveals one thing: everyone has a different opinion(Pirate)! Caster settings range from +3(?) to -10 or more. The FSM calls for -3 to -5, depending on truck or 4Runner. Now, how best to measure caster, other than using the SST from Toyota. Don't have one of those. I did find on Marlin's site a couple posts saying the caster can be measured across the upper trunnion bearing race, sensible. Another says the angle can be checked across the steering arm over the trunnion (high steer arms). Even more, I read the spring perch is in the same plane as the bearing race. That seemed strange, so I decided to check it. I tore down a spare axle, measured across the race then the perch. Same.

I removed the front wheels from the truck and set the jackstands so that the axle is within .5in of the ride height measured before removing the wheels. I measured the thickness of the spring pack forward and behind the U bolts to verify a constant thickness, then took an angle measurement across the plate.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-02-02/1422921050_sam_0803.jpg

Also took a reading at the arm
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-02-02/1422921120_sam_0807.jpg

7 degrees falls well within popular settings but outside the manual. I'm going to double check that FSM but right now it's looking like a 4 degree shim.

[94ToyBear]

Unless I missed this detail where did you set you jack stands at?Frame, springs, axle housing?

[Brucker]

Unless you have messed with your spring perch alignment or cut and turned your knuckles, I'd be willing to bet caster angle isn't going to be your issue. If indeed you have DW, and not mis-balenced or under/over inflated wheels/tires (have you swapped wheels/tires around to see if the problem changes?) start by checking all your steering joints, recheck tightness of your steering arms and steering box to frame (check frame for any cracks as well) and then check your alignment as well, even if it's with a tape measure. Make sure your trunnion bearings are good and shimmed correctly and check your wheel bearings as well. If you can not find any issues then move on to the front suspension. Check bushings and shackles , then check ubolts holding the springs.

If all that doesn't solve the issue, you should call me and we can go over the specs.

[88Toy]

Unless I missed this detail where did you set you jack stands at?Frame, springs, axle housing?

Jackstands placed under the axle at normal ride height (weight on axle).


Unless you have messed with your spring perch alignment or cut and turned your knuckles, I'd be willing to bet caster angle isn't going to be your issue. If indeed you have DW, and not mis-balenced or under/over inflated wheels/tires (have you swapped wheels/tires around to see if the problem changes?) start by checking all your steering joints, recheck tightness of your steering arms and steering box to frame (check frame for any cracks as well) and then check your alignment as well, even if it's with a tape measure. Make sure your trunnion bearings are good and shimmed correctly and check your wheel bearings as well. If you can not find any issues then move on to the front suspension. Check bushings and shackles , then check ubolts holding the springs.

If all that doesn't solve the issue, you should call me and we can go over the specs.

You know Aaron, it occurred to me at 3am last night that the only thing I really haven't done is to replace the shocks. The dampening both ways are weak. Perches, knuckles are untampered with. New spring bushings, TRE's are tight, no bearing play. Toe in 1/8in via straightedges on the WMS. Tires have about 200 miles on them, balanced. So now I'm wondering if it's a case of aggravated bump steer caused by insufficient compression dampening.

[Brucker]

You know Aaron, it occurred to me at 3am last night that the only thing I really haven't done is to replace the shocks. The dampening both ways are weak. Perches, knuckles are untampered with. New spring bushings, TRE's are tight, no bearing play. Toe in 1/8in via straightedges on the WMS. Tires have about 200 miles on them, balanced. So now I'm wondering if it's a case of aggravated bump steer caused by insufficient compression dampening.

Bad shocks will definitely be suspect then. DW just didn't seem likely, especially with your huge dampener as way of hydro assist.

But bear in mind that 200 miles is plenty of time for a tire to chunk or to throw a wheel weight. Might try a quick rotation and just see. And trunnion bearings can wear and become too loose. Have you checked the current preload by using a spring tension scale? If not, I have one if you'd like to borrow it. Though if I remember correctly, you are an outdoors man/fisherman, so you have have a fish scale laying around and those work perfect. Let me know if you need something.

[88Toy]

Yeah, like I've ever caught a fish big enough to actually use one of these...
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-02-03/1423059419_sam_0811.jpg

lol, thanks, Aaron. New shocks going on today, road test tomorrow.

[Brucker]

lol, thanks, Aaron. New shocks going on today, road test tomorrow.

Lol, it's fishing, it's all about the story ;)

Hope the new parts solve the issue!

[H8ROADS]

Awesome thread!!! Really enjoyed reading over it on my lunch hour. Great build, super jealous. I hope to do something like this one day.

[Brucker]

Well?

[88Toy]

OMG! So I'm sitting there, bracing for the inevitable with gritting teeth, thinking, "This is gonna suck", it never happened! Unbelievable!

I grabbed a set of Pro Comp (not my first choice) MX6 shocks. I chose these because 1)they were available off the shelf in the size I needed and, 2)they have externally adjustable dampening. I set them at the middle setting for a starting point and will probably leave them right there. I don't want to touch anything! Control IS a wonderful thing.

It's official. Death Wobble has a new name: Aggravated Bump Steer:wrench:

[Brucker]

Great to hear the replacement of the worn out equipment solved your problems!

[88Toy]

Been racking up some miles and had a couple issues emerge. The coolant temp would run a little high with an occasional spike. I found the pulling fans weren't running, so began the troubleshooting. A little research and a quick call to Painless showed I miswired the fan relays. I now know that the ECM controls the ground circuit, not the power. I ran another fused hot to the fans and redid the relay control. The test was to jump the ECM relay terminal to ground, which showed I had one fan running backward. Sooooo, with that polarity reversed and the relays wired like they're supposed to be, things are running normal.

It was kinda funny that I had to open the dash fairly deep in order to make these corrections and run wires. Upon closing everything up, I started the engine, hit the headlights and poof! There goes the running and dash lights. I never touched that circuit so I figured I pinched a wire in the closeup. I started isolating sections one at a time all the way to the front running lights, nothing wrong. After a little head scratching, I remembered a pair of hot leads routed into the shifter console for a background light and the TC lockup switch. Background light. Pulled the wires out and found there was just enough of the spade terminal exposed to make contact to ground. They're now wrapped in a big ball of electrical tape. Entire dash reassembled.

Was also able to fix an ongoing steering fluid leak in the low side by replacing the hose sections and replacing the regular hose clamps with lined clamps. Did the same for the coolant lines.

It's getting near to where I'll feel confident taking the truck out on a run. It's long overdue!

[88Toy]

We finally had the chance to test the truck in my favorite element: low and slow. The weekend plans started as a scooter trip exploring single track around Pitkin. I wound up rearranging the trailer in order to make room for the truck knowing this would be the best opportunity for limited embarrassment. I was concerned about engine and transmission cooling as well as clearance between the front diff and oil pan at right full compression. I was also hoping that I had all the fluid line sealing issues resolved.
The run was up Tincup Pass from Mirror Lake, and back. It's a short trail, not particularly difficult (ATV/UTV bypasses not taken) but enough to expose any mechanical weakness. The engine never broke a sweat and the trans never got near hot. No fluid leaks or parts dangling underneath, nor was there any sign of contact on the oil pan. The only casualty was the broken rocker on the junky ARB switch. Overall, it was a very successful test hop.

http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-07-29/1438212911_sam_1007.jpg

Ready to join a real run!

[EKXJ87]

Glad to hear all your hard work paid off, a very clean 88 :thumb:

[dieseldoc]

good to see it get dirt under it.

[88Toy]

Yea, it's nice to see a little dirt on it besides dust!

[Brucker]

Looking good Les!

[88Toy]

Been trying to figure out how best to increase airflow through the radiator in order to cure the overheating while running in low and slow. I kinda figured this would be an issue all along but maintained an optimistic approach thinking 2 puller and a large pusher fan would suffice. It didn't.
Initially, I ran these fans that came out of a junkyard Mercedes, blades trimmed for clearance
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-11-13/1447461387_sam_1121.jpg

My research showed that 2- 7.5in and 2- 9in fans would cover the greatest area while allowing space for the water pump pulley.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-11-13/1447461633_sam_1119.jpg

A lot of cutting and shaping along with 4 new Spal fans have what I REALLY hope is the solution.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-11-13/1447461754_sam_1154.jpg

It was obvious that the radiator had to be moved further forward than I previously thought possible. The bottom saddle came out with a lot of cutting and grinding and a new one made up and *bolted* in.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-11-13/1447461870_sam_1141.jpg

The upper radiator stays extended, fwd upper cross member cut for the 1.25in. radiator relocation.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-11-13/1447462086_sam_1152.jpg

Relays mounted on site, fused power taken off fwd terminal block inside front RH frame rail.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-11-13/1447462159_sam_1158.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-11-13/1447462229_sam_1162.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-11-13/1447462295_sam_1163.jpg

Crossmember brace fabb'd up and installed, along with the upper stay brackets. The LH headlight harness was rerouted and tucked into the grill.
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-11-13/1447462363_sam_1173.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/88ectoy/2015-11-13/1447462431_sam_1179.jpg

All that remains is to replace the upper hose, fill and run. The new fan configuration moves a ton of air now, sounds like a jet engine...

[Patrolman]

Really nice work. That should keep things cool!

[94ToyBear]

Looks great les! Do you think hood louvers Will help with the flow ?

[88Toy]

Thanks Jeff, Adam. I don't think louvers would do much as there's lots of exit space on the sides. The wind that's pulled through the radiator is a vast improvement over the breeze it had before. I can still mount a dual pass radiator if absolutely necessary.