FJ40 won't start, except when it does

[Rob]

Need some help from some of you knowledgeable folks. Sometimes the FJ40 starts; sometimes it doesn't.

Last week, I ran to Safeway a half-mile from the house in the FJ40. Came out and it wouldn't start. Turned key; nothing. Wife brought jumper cables. It started, and I was able to get it home. (I'm guessing now that the jump didn't actually matter.)

A few days later, I went out and cranked it up with no problems. Shut it down, tried again. Nothing. Later, it started up again.

Today, I went out and got nothing again. Hit the battery with a mutimeter. Reading was 12.54. Tried to jump it with the FJ Cruiser. Still nothing. Checked out every connection under the hood that I recognized and fiddled with wires. Tried it one more time. Cranked right up.

When it won't start, I noticed the beep that tells me my seatbelt is off works, but the horn, fan and wipers don't work.

The questions are:
1) What the heck is going on?
2) How do I isolate what the heck is going on?
3) If can isolate what the heck is going, can I fix it myself?

Thanks in advance for any advice, help, brainstorming or even commiseration.

[Jim]

Sounds like me Sunday night at 11:30PM leaving my brother's house - hit the key and "click" but no starter spin. Headlights on - click - no headlight dim. Pull out a heavy chunk of metal and tap the starter solenoid a couple times - bingo!

Could your starter solenoid not be engaging to activate the starter? Is it 'easy to whack' next time it should happen?

[Tom]

Did you check the negative cable where it attaches to the frame and starter for corrosion? I'm no expert but I'm thinking bad ground.

[Brad]

Possible bad grounds or ignition switch.

[4Runninfun]

I would check your main ground coming off the battery. Then what I would do is when it won't crank over have your wife hold the key over and smack the starter your solenoid may be sticking. I would start here and let us know what you come up with.

[Rob]

Excellent advice. I'll try both of those things.

[Patrolman]

I agree with everyone. One thing not mentioned, even if the cables have a good ground connection, the could be corroded on the inside.

Keep in mind even a nearly dead battery will read 12v, but won't put out enough amps to crank the engine. Imagine 8 AAA batteries, they will read 12v when in series, but there is no way they would turn the engine.

[Chris]

When it won't start, I noticed the beep that tells me my seatbelt is off works, but the horn, fan and wipers won't work.

In my mind this rules out the solenoid and points to the ground or related battery/cable issues as mentioned. I'm always happy to supervise Rob!

[Rob]

I agree with everyone. One thing not mentioned, even if the cables have a good ground connection, the could be corroded on the inside.

Keep in mind even a nearly dead battery will read 12v, but won't put out enough amps to crank the engine.

But it cranks sometimes and not others. That's what confused me. (Granted, I'm easily confused.)

I disconnected the negative cable where it's grounded to the frame, wire brushed everything and hooked it back up with a fresh bolt and washer. It cranked up three times in a row.

I'll try to start every day this week when I come home for lunch and when I get home from work. If it cranks every time, I'll assume it was the ground. Next, though, will be a trip to the auto parts store for a new cable.

[Rob]

I'm always happy to supervise Rob!

:lmao: Of course you are.

[Brad]

As they are generally cheap insurance, always better to replace.

[Jim]

Should it happen again - have jumper cables ready (no need for a second battery). Use the jumper cables to "jump" your battery negative terminal to bare/block ground. Does the issue remain? Jumping battery positive to the next "large" termination of the positive cable is an option too.

Essentially, with jumper cables you're "temporarily replacing" the questionable wiring with known good wiring.

[Patrolman]

That is a good idea! Never thought of that.

[Rob]

Good idea, Jim. I have cables in the back of the 40. Thanks.

[Jackie]

I would think that.........

........Oh wait... you asked for "knowledgeable folks" advise.

never mind! Hope you get it figured out!

[Hypoid]

The questions are:
1) What the heck is going on?
2) How do I isolate what the heck is going on?
3) If can isolate what the heck is going, can I fix it myself?Do you have a wiring diagram for it?

Another "could be" for the list is the ignition switch.

[Rob]

I do have the diagram. If it isn't the ground, I'll check that next.

[Robert B]

minus the other things not working my truck did the exact same thing with the some times starts fine sometimes nothing happens when the starter was bad........it took autozone 3 times to test to find it was bad because if u held it just right before testing it would run fine but it u held it another way then it was dead as a doornail..........probably same idea if i would have hit it with a hammer .......wiring could explain why ur other items also didnt work some times but i am not sure how it was routed in your truck but if you can afford a new starter and its cheap like mine was i i would try that just cause

[Robert B]

or as mike did say 2 posts above this something in the column could be wrong or broken

[Hypoid]

I have experienced similar problems from the switch; they do wear out.

[Rob]

Hope that's not it. By the way, it started at lunch and it started when I got home from work. So far so good on it being a bad ground.

[Patrolman]

Rob:

I just had a thought. Do the headlights and everything else come on? Turn on everything at once when the engine won't start. Heater, headlights, wipers, etc. If everything works good electrically other than the starter, it is likely starter related. This could be the starter itself or the ignition switch.

My Scout had the column switch go out. When you turn the key, everything works like a charm except the starter. It now has a push button wired to trigger the solenoid/starter. I just have to be careful not to push the button without the key in the run position. The starter will turn over and over, and the engine will never fire without the key turned on. It was honestly an easy and cheap fix that will always allow for easy troubleshooting.

[carpenle]

I hope it is just the ground, Cheep and easy! :cool:

[Rob]

Do the headlights and everything else come on?

Jeff, I think I mentioned in the OP that the wipers and fan didn't work, only the seat belt buzzer. I didn't try the lights.

And since I cleaned the cable connection to the frame and used a new bolt and washer, it's started up every time I've tried it: twice yesterday, at lunchtime today and just about two minutes ago.

[Chris]

Sounds like you got it Rob, now you can drive it to Moab! :woot:

[Rob]

now you can drive it to Moab!

If I drove it to Moab, I wouldn't be in any shape to drive it in Moab. :brody:

[Chris]

But I would be Rob!

[Rob]

Mmm, good point. Wise acre. :lmao:

[Patrolman]

If you were having trouble with the other accessories, then it is likely at or near the battery. Cleaning the terminals and grounds is a great place to start. Sounds like you may have licked it!

Does your 40 have a handcrank? I think some of the older ones did. My buddies 1969 LandRover and my 1969 Nissan Patrol both have handcranks. Great options for when you have problems like this!

[Rob]

Does your 40 have a handcrank? I think some of the older ones did.

It doesn't. Apparently, they stopped putting the claw nut on the 2F engine in 1980. Mine's an '82. I guess I could get it retrofitted and buy a hand crank. But then I'd have to take the winch off the front. Bummer.

The 40 continues to start since I cleaned the cable, so I think it's back to normal. It will be getting a new negative cable this weekend, just to be on the safe side.

[Rick]

The 40 continues to start since I cleaned the cable, so I think it's back to normal:thumb:

[scout man]

I still want to see that thing in Moab someday Rob! Its small, it might fit on my trailer with my scout!

[Rob]

I would too, Steve. But not until I get the new third members in, a rear locker and at least 33-inch tires.

The 40's about 13 feet long. Will that work?

[scout man]

is it really that long?

[Chris]

I thought it had an old crank Rob.


Then I remembered I was thinking of the driver! :lmao:

[Rob]

is it really that long?

According to specs I found online. I haven't actually measured it in a while, but that sounds about right.


I thought it had an old crank Rob.


Then I remembered I was thinking of the driver! :lmao:


:lmao: Well, you're on quite a roll tonight. :bowdown:

And, no, I'm not changing my screen name again. :D

[Chris]

:lmao: Well, you're on quite a roll tonight. :bowdown:

:D Yeah, I get a bit fiesty when the weather turns warm Rob!

[glacierpaul]

I have had all the suggested scenerios with my Jeeps :) bad ground wire, bad or corroded connections, bad battery, solonoids, starter motor/wirings and a bad ignition switch. I have been told to pull the antenna and put a new vehicle under it:lmao:
Edit: I now have back up parts at home for this, but when you own as many problems as I do......I am glad to hear you have tackled it! Easy fixes are sweet!

[Rob]

OK, I got a new negative cable on the battery today, and since I haven't had it not start all week, I'm going to call it fixed.

Thanks to everyone for helping me figure this out.