Need some advice on our possible new wheeler....

[CODodgeGal]

Hi everyone!!!

Hoping this is in the right section, but here goes. So we're looking at purchasing a 1976 Scout II from a friend, but its going to need a couple of things which we aren't really sure how to go about fixing or getting the parts...

First of all it hasnt been started in 3+ years....it has the 345 V8 IH with a high rise cam...only has about 1,000 miles on the rebuild. Because it hasnt been started in so long we were curious how to go about bringing life back to it without destroying anything...any help or advise on this would be greatly appreciated!!!


Second it has a 4" skyjacker lift but still has the stock driveshafts. So far our friend has gone through a bunch of U joints on the front drive shaft and one on the rear. We've done a little research on them and found some info on the double cardan driveshafts saying they are good to overcome these issues. We were wondering if these are good for preventing constantly replacing driveshafts and where we might be able to get any?

Thank you so much!!!!

[javaman34]

Years ago I had an 1950 Plymouth come into my possession. It hadn't been started in about 20 years. One of the first things I did was pull the plugs and fill it with that Marvel Mystery oil all the way up to the plug holes. I put the plugs back in and left it sit for about a week. I then pulled the plugs again, grabbed hold of the engine fan and checked to see if it would turn. It did. I drained all the oil out of it, put motor oil in it. I then replaced the plugs (after I finally found some), come of the wiring and a 6 volt battery (it ran on 6 volts). I turned the key and this engine that has been sitting for 20 years came back to life. After that it was time to track down oil leaks. Anyway, that is my experience with an old engine that has been sitting a while.

[xaza]

For all driveshaft issues the one to contact is Bill's Englewood Driveshaft. All fluids should be checked, topped off and fuel system disabled (ie unplug fuel pump relay) before cranking to be sure everything turns first.

[scout man]

With 4" you definitely need a double cardan up front. If it is an auto tranny, this requires some slight grinding on the edge of the transmission pan in order for it to clear. It will be pretty obviously when you go to bolt it on where it hits. Basically you need to grind some of the pan/housing that is outside one of the bolt holes on the pan. If done correctly this is not a problem. That said, all of the transmissions I have had in mine have had a slight leak in this area after its been done, but its necessary to run a lift so you dont really have a choice. If its a manual then I THINK your ok with just swapping in the drive shaft. (I think your other post said it was a manual, but mine is auto so you need to verify my information).

Also, Scouts are really flexy, so a good front driveshaft is necessary. Bill at Englewood Driveshaft has done all of mine over the years and does an excellent job of it. He will definitely get you set up correctly. He built me a front shaft with a full 12" of slip yoke to accomodate my flex. (I am not on a skyjacker lift, mine is custom).

The year driveshaft may or may not need lengthened. For whatever reason some scout stock shafts work fine with that much lift, and some are too short. Mine was too short. If your blowing joints back there, it might just be a little short. Other than that the stock one is fine back there, but I suggest a tougher one from Bill if you intend to off road it much. The stock ones are thin and wont last more than a hit or two on a rock.

[CODodgeGal]

With 4" you definitely need a double cardan up front @ scout man - thanks for the info!!! Yes it is a manual...just curious do you know what a double cardan for the front usually runs from Englewood Driveshaft? We havent purchased this scout yet and are trying to make a decision on what price we can purchase it for and still be able to do the necessary fixes and upgrades to get it four wheeling ready :)

[CODodgeGal]

And thanks to everyone for all the great info!

[scout man]

sent you a PM

[scout man]

Oh, and Bill is "Tonkatoy" on this forum if you want to PM him directly

[The StRanger]

Whenever I try to fire a dead engine drain the old oil & filter, drop in 5 qrts of 30W Detergent oil
Pull the dist & prime the oill pump to clear all the old junk outa the system.
Change out the filter again & off ya go..

[glacierpaul]

My advice....buy it! :)

[Clickpopboom]

I have pulled more old VWs out of fields than I can remember- I paid for part of my college tuition by finding, fixing, and selling bugs and buses with a friend of mine. We had the same set of steps for turning over seized engines, and it seemed to work pretty well.

Remove spark plugs and fill the cylinders up with mystery oil (like stated above) and leave overnight or longer

Drain the oil and replace with fresh oil and filter.

Leave the sparkplugs out and try to turn it over with a wrench on the crank pulley

If it turns go ahead and crank with the starter with the plugs still out and the fuel inlet disconnected until it spins nice and quick.

If the wrench didn't work still disconnect the fuel and use the starter, but only bump it until it wants to turn over.

If it still wont turn with the starter it's time for more desperate measures. This usually means having someone tow you at low speed and popping the clutch.

After getting it unseized it's time to do a compression test to make sure the cylinder walls weren't scarred or you didn't break a ring.

[Clickpopboom]

How did this turn out for you?

[Funrover]

Also. How is the fuel? If it has varnished you will have to clean out that mess and go through the carb.