Dawg
June 14th, 2013, 11:01 AM
Ok, let's kick this off.... For the last few months I’ve been quite busy with the Hummer. It takes time to put the thoughts and the money together, and as it turns out the thoughts still come quicker than the money.
I have taken the time to read so many different threads associated with the 07 H3 and wish to thank all the folks that have been so kind to share ideas, processes and things learned. Sure has taken a lot trial and error out of the equation. But at the same time it has caused a few additional questions that I had to clear up before I started dropping cash at my local off-roading shop. On with the fun stuff!
We bought this H3 with 53k on her and from what I can tell she was mostly stock. So, started off by adding a rather large K&N breather under the hood, don’t need a asthmatic Hummer while crawling around at altitude.
She also had a most hideous rake that simply had to be dealt with, RF=22", LF=21.5" and both rears are 24". Having read all the pros and cons concerning re-indexed keys versing cranked keys, I decided to run with the Daystar 3" combo kit which advertises a 2" suspension lift along with 1" body lift.
Here is where one of my questions comes into the picture. I know that when cranking the keys one should not exceed 23.5" - 23.75" center-hub to bottom of fender, mitigating un-necessary stress on the front end components.
So, I went with the 23.5” prior to body lift and the new tires.
On to the tire selection.... It is taken that this all depends on how she is going to be driven an on personal tastes. We decided on the Hercules Trail Digger M/T’s. From what I've read on various posts and threads, I can safely replace the stock 265/75R-16's with a healthier 315/75R-16, which is based on the dimensional aspects of the stock rims 16X7.5. Not to mention that all the reviews state that M/T's will take anything you can throw at them.
If I'm being too wordy, sorry..... Thought it would be a good way to open a build thread and these simple modifications are just the beginning.
The 3" lift I did myself, 2" with re-indexed torsion keys and an additional 1" with a body lift. Let me say that while it was a fairly easy process, I took my time, 17 hours worth to get it completed. Attached are some before and after shots.
The keys were a piece of cake.... was expecting all kinds of trouble that never came about. However, I had a little trouble getting the bolt to start on the driver side after replacing the torsion key. I ended up using a 2" drift-pin to compress the key enough to catch those first threads. It was smooth after that. The instructions in this kit leave a little to be desired, but if you are mechanically inclined, ain’t nuttin but a thing.
With the keys and body lift in place I did find sway-bar rub in hard turning..... Camber was the culprit.... I waited to have an alignment done until I put the new feet on. When she went to the shop, the computer said camber settings were at 3.5” driver’s side and 3.9” passenger’s side. Got the front end set to specs and guess what? Sway-bar rub is gone.
After I got the tires on the girl I was doing a walk around while drooling all over myself and I don’t know about you, but that big ole chrome grille just seemed out of place. So, off with the grille, some 200 grit sand paper, 3 to 4 hours of careful work, and a can of flat black paint and we finished off the weekend with a flat black front grill.
There is another area that I took notice of while doing the suspension work, and that was the front skid plates. In their natural state they are dull and unassuming but, on close inspection they have attributes that when worked properly really add to the look of the front end. Check out my modifications
The ride is fantastic now to say the least, Dawgs’ H3 finally looks like a Hummer is supposed to look and I believe that she is ready to go play with all the other kids.
Comments and suggestions are always appreciated!
I have taken the time to read so many different threads associated with the 07 H3 and wish to thank all the folks that have been so kind to share ideas, processes and things learned. Sure has taken a lot trial and error out of the equation. But at the same time it has caused a few additional questions that I had to clear up before I started dropping cash at my local off-roading shop. On with the fun stuff!
We bought this H3 with 53k on her and from what I can tell she was mostly stock. So, started off by adding a rather large K&N breather under the hood, don’t need a asthmatic Hummer while crawling around at altitude.
She also had a most hideous rake that simply had to be dealt with, RF=22", LF=21.5" and both rears are 24". Having read all the pros and cons concerning re-indexed keys versing cranked keys, I decided to run with the Daystar 3" combo kit which advertises a 2" suspension lift along with 1" body lift.
Here is where one of my questions comes into the picture. I know that when cranking the keys one should not exceed 23.5" - 23.75" center-hub to bottom of fender, mitigating un-necessary stress on the front end components.
So, I went with the 23.5” prior to body lift and the new tires.
On to the tire selection.... It is taken that this all depends on how she is going to be driven an on personal tastes. We decided on the Hercules Trail Digger M/T’s. From what I've read on various posts and threads, I can safely replace the stock 265/75R-16's with a healthier 315/75R-16, which is based on the dimensional aspects of the stock rims 16X7.5. Not to mention that all the reviews state that M/T's will take anything you can throw at them.
If I'm being too wordy, sorry..... Thought it would be a good way to open a build thread and these simple modifications are just the beginning.
The 3" lift I did myself, 2" with re-indexed torsion keys and an additional 1" with a body lift. Let me say that while it was a fairly easy process, I took my time, 17 hours worth to get it completed. Attached are some before and after shots.
The keys were a piece of cake.... was expecting all kinds of trouble that never came about. However, I had a little trouble getting the bolt to start on the driver side after replacing the torsion key. I ended up using a 2" drift-pin to compress the key enough to catch those first threads. It was smooth after that. The instructions in this kit leave a little to be desired, but if you are mechanically inclined, ain’t nuttin but a thing.
With the keys and body lift in place I did find sway-bar rub in hard turning..... Camber was the culprit.... I waited to have an alignment done until I put the new feet on. When she went to the shop, the computer said camber settings were at 3.5” driver’s side and 3.9” passenger’s side. Got the front end set to specs and guess what? Sway-bar rub is gone.
After I got the tires on the girl I was doing a walk around while drooling all over myself and I don’t know about you, but that big ole chrome grille just seemed out of place. So, off with the grille, some 200 grit sand paper, 3 to 4 hours of careful work, and a can of flat black paint and we finished off the weekend with a flat black front grill.
There is another area that I took notice of while doing the suspension work, and that was the front skid plates. In their natural state they are dull and unassuming but, on close inspection they have attributes that when worked properly really add to the look of the front end. Check out my modifications
The ride is fantastic now to say the least, Dawgs’ H3 finally looks like a Hummer is supposed to look and I believe that she is ready to go play with all the other kids.
Comments and suggestions are always appreciated!