sunks K5 build

[sunk]

Not sure how to start a build thread, I am usually bad about posting updates and loading pictures...

It all started with the sloppy steering. I decided it was not worth upgrading the 10 bolt axles and I should just go to 1 tons. I have been collecting parts over the past year (or 2) and am about ready to put them under the truck.

I tore the Dana 60 front down to the ears and rebuilt just about the whole thing. New kingpins, u-joint, bearings and seals, hubs, rotors and calipers, crossover high steer kit, and some cool diff covers. I spent a lot of time just cleaning up all the parts, when I purchased the axle it was covered in an inch of oil, dirt and clay.

The rear 14 bolt had all new internals so all I did was throw a disc brake conversion on and clean and paint it.

[sunk]

I spent a ton of time dreaming about what tires I wanted to run, and finally made the leap and purchased 4 40x13.50r17 Nitto Trail Grappler MT's.

it has been awhile since I have seen a set of 40's next to the truck and it really made me question my decision not to go with a taller lift. I wanted to keep it low with my 4" lift and just cut out what I needed to.

[sunk]

I drove over to Skinny Fabs to get the boatsides started. We figured that it was a good place to start, but once I actually get the tires under the truck I will have to do some additional cutting.

We cut out all of the rocker panel and about 7" out of the door itself. That entailed converting the automatic windows to manual. Turns out the motor for the auto windows sits in the bottom of the door. Kinda sucks, it will take some getting used to.

We should have the rest of the steel today to finish up the boatsides.

[sunk]

Ive got a Magnum under drive box from ORD on the way. Ive been trying to source an NP205, hopefully I will have one this week so I can start the tear down on it.

Beyond that, I should just have to figure out the new cross member for the new transfer case setup, new drive shafts from Englewood Driveshafts (BILL ROCKS!) and some brake lines...hmm I feel like I am forgetting something....

[Chris]

Looking good Adam, 40's? Wow! I'm looking forward to the boatsides. :thumb:

[Rick]

that is gonna be a fun toy when completed...:thumb:

[Funrover]

Holy awesomeness man!

[KnuckleHead]

Axles look good man... ill be watching this

[AccordRanger]

This is gonna be awesome. Always loved pre 90's k series.

[xaza]

Lookin sweet. Those 40's are huge!

[Popsgarage]

Can't wait for this one to continue!

[sunk]

Been working on the truck a little after work every day. John does awesome work, it took him some time to weld up the sliders and not have them warp, each side is about 10' of weld.

Last night we were able to tack the drivers side slider in place. Turned out awesome, we had to do some temporary wheel well and fender cutting to give us access to the bottom of the A-pillar to finish the welding. We will have to finish the trimming later when the tires are mounted but it really opened up the wheel well and looks pretty cool

[Popsgarage]

I like it, it's lookin' good. Are you gonna extend the slider to the bottom of the frame rail, kinda a mini boatside???

[sunk]

If you look close at post #3, you can see the area cut out. There are 2 rectangles visible, they connect directly to the body mounts. We are modifying those mounts to connect to the "slider" so no, they do not connect to the frame, everything is attached to the body.

I suppose the difference between a slider and boatsides is that a slider mounts below the rocker panel and attaches directly to the frame. Boatsides, if there is a definition, replace the rocker panel and really are a part of the body. Right? John and I feel that there is enough structure where we are attaching to support the full weight of the vehicle.

The plan is to later build a roll cage, at that point the cage will attach to the frame and effectively attach the boatside to the frame

[xaza]

Can't say that I know the difference between a boatside and rock slider but when looking for my XJ sliders I did come across one that required cutting rocker panel to keep clearance high and it was still called a slider. Maybe the slope of the slider is what makes it a "boatside"

[sunk]

Hmm, I still say that mine are boasides

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/body-chassis/131-0806-fullsize-4x4-truck-boatsiding-techniques/

[xaza]

After reading that article I would say a boatside is just a specific style of rock slider. It requires cutting into the rocker panel, connecting to the frame and a "V" shape to it. The slider I had found for my XJ didn't have a v shape to it but matches the other 2 criteria so not a boatside. Until you are connected to your frame I would call it a reinforced rocker panel. Another way to look at it, because of your plans, is a boatside in process. Irregardless of the terminology it looks sweet and will be awesome on trail.

[Java]

looks great! boatslider.

[Popsgarage]

John and I feel that there is enough structure where we are attaching to support the full weight of the vehicle.

There is, not disagreeing at all or questioning your build at all. Have always wanted to do mine like this. Stephan and James Watson really know how to build a fullsize Cheby. I've seen this in person and it is, for lack of a better word, Badass!!!!!!

http://offroaddesign.com/willard0510/UA08--224a.jpg

[Rick]

There is, not disagreeing at all or questioning your build at all. Have always wanted to do mine like this. Stephan and James Watson really know how to build a fullsize Cheby. I've seen this in person and it is, for lack of a better word, Badass!!!!!!

http://offroaddesign.com/willard0510/UA08--224a.jpg that is sweeeet!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[94ToyBear]

Are you gona run eldorado caliper ? What's your plans on that ?

[sunk]

I do love the way that rigs boatsides turned out, but when we tore into it our plans changed a little and I think mine will be just as effective...we measured the clearance gains with the old tires and we gained more that 4" in the center of the door.

Also, I love getting feedback from like minded people...

What is an eldorado caliper? My plans for the rear calipers were to use the 1/2 ton that are currently mounted to the 10 bolt. Ive talked to Bill and that is what he ended up doing, he didnt even utilize a proportioning valve...

[AccordRanger]

Gonna take a guess and say he might mean calipers of a Cadillac Eldorado.

[94ToyBear]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/1081186-14-bolt-disk-brake-conversion-e-brake.html


Its a caliper with an E brake. I'm doing a 14 bolt with disc conversion as well....problem with using the 1/2 ton front calipers is you don't have a e/ park breaks.. not a huge deal if you have an automatic but good for steep hills. Check out the link.

[Popsgarage]

Best 14BFF brake caliper brackets anywhere, hands down. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/14BSRW.html

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/graphics/00000001/brake%2014%20bolt.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=9OB3yIcqCoM

[94ToyBear]

I picked ip the same brackets....I agree with you things built like a brick s!*t house.

[Popsgarage]

I agree with you things built like a brick s!*t house.

Amen!

[AccordRanger]

I can't wait to see the turn out of this. If I get the job I'm hoping for I'm planning on getting a 75 k series pickup and doing about the same.

[sunk]

So, I havent updated this recently and had to change some of my plans...

I guess Ill start by saying I was planning on a driveline emergency brake setup but have not purchased anything for it at this point. No Eldorado calipers.

My original plan was to get the truck on the road before the snow flies, mainly because the car does not go anywhere when there is any snow on the road. The truck was pretty beat up from last years wheeling season and during the winter I changed jobs and had no money to repair the truck. The steering box was toast and I shredded a tire so I was running on the spare. It was past due for new shoes. The axles were first but since the driveshafts needed to be modified for the new 1 tons I elected to upgrade the transfer case at the same time (and it would help with the crawl ratio and the 40s). I have received the crawl box and purchased the np205 but I cannot see finishing that set up before it snows in town. I will re-build the transfer case during the winter and install it in the spring.

That just leaves the axle swap for this weekend. I have yet to figure out what I will do for the brake lines, and I need to purchase my steering box, and Billy will have to cut my driveshafts to replace the yolk for the 1 tons. But the axels and wheels are going to happen Saturday.

Anyone want to help turn a wrench?

[AccordRanger]

That just leaves the axle swap for this weekend. I have yet to figure out what I will do for the brake lines, and I need to purchase my steering box, and Billy will have to cut my driveshafts to replace the yolk for the 1 tons. But the axels and wheels are going to happen Saturday.

Anyone want to help turn a wrench?

Man if I wasn't stuck working on my dads truck I would be up to help. But I think it's gonna be an all day thing.

[Popsgarage]

If I'm not at work or working on something in my driveway I might be available.

[sunk]

So we swapped the axles on Saturday and were able to mount the tires. Getting close to be able to drive on the street, just have to wrap up the brake lines, swap the rear u-joint on the rear driveshaft, and install the new steering box.

It looks pretty cool...

[sunk]

The rear 14 bolt looks big but I still gained 2" of clearance on the diff. After we get it rolling we will do some flex tests and determine what needs to be cut out of the fenders for clearance.

We measured the approach angle for the front, 75 deg...

[Funrover]

Looking great man!

[AccordRanger]

So what size lift do you have? 4 inch?

[sunk]

Running a 4" superlift up front (well worn) and an ORD shackle flip in the rear with the original springs.

Among many other items we discovered while pulling the old axles, we found the front brake lines were too short and the shocks were limiting my down travel. I purchased new 36" braided lines for the front and we plan on relocating the shock mounts to the top of the axles. I may have to purchase new bump stops as well but we will determine that when performing the first flex test...

[Rick]

:thumb:looks Great!!!

[AccordRanger]

Love how it looks. Can't wait till taxes next year so I can pick me up one if the square body Chevys.

[Rick]

Can't wait till taxes next year:lmao: Taxes!!!!!!!hope we get em back:D

[AccordRanger]

:lmao: Taxes!!!!!!!hope we get em back:D

We better or someone's gonna have some explaining. :lmao:

[sunk]

Well the list of crap to fix keeps growing...

I had to get the rear driveshaft worked on, it needed a combo u-joint to adapt to the 14 bolt. Billy picked it up earlier this week. Yesterday we looked at the front, it bolted to the 60 but now it looks like it is too long and may have to be shorter.

I had to get longer brake lines for the front calipers and I installed an adapter for the hardline, ran the new 36" braided line but the banjo bolt from the old calipers does not fit in the "new" (re-manufactured) calipers. It seems the previous owners drilled and tapped them to a new strange size. I have to replace the calipers. I re-used the rear hardlines from the 10 bolt but had to use an adapter and a 9" braided line. Just have to make some mounts for the adapter.

I had to install a steering box from a 84' 2wd Chevy for the crossover steering and it was a re-manufactured part as well. Turns out the box does not come with the nut for the pitman arm, so I am looking for the right nut. I also ran into an issue with the drag link from ORD, the tie rod end did not fully thread into one side. I called ORD and they sent a replacement out right away. Those guys really took care of me, great customer service!!

Still have to flush to old power steering fluid. Have to replace the ATF in the transfer case. Have to fill the diffs with gear oil. Have to grease all the new zerts.

While crawling around under the truck (tons of room now!!) I found the rear exhaust hanger was broken and was causing noise rattling around. I thought it was a body mount and have been trying to tighten body mounts for the past 6 months...

John had to fab up new shock mounts for the 60, we re-located them to the top of the axle, pretty badass

And the biggest pain I have found since starting on this project, I found the support bar for the transfer case to the Transmission was not bolted in to the bell housing (eek) I finally located the correct hardware, but found that the old bolt was broken off in the mount. Still trying to figure out how to remove it...

I found the pan for the tranny has a bad leak and need a new gasket.

I bet theres more but I cannot think of what it is...

[sunk]

Was able to complete a portion of my list over so far, even drove the truck around the block...

Working on the brakes, finished bleeding the brakes but found the rear brakes do not have any pressure to them. While bleeding the fluid was just seeping out. Not sure if this is an air bubble or if there is a problem with the proportioning valve or the master cylinder.

Hooked up the steering, greased everything and cycled the steering. Drives straight but still think I need to take it to a alignment shop.

Billy finished up my driveshafts, was concerned I would have to shorten the rear shaft but everything looks great.

Still have to finish the exhaust hanger, and figure out the transfer case brace. Will probably build a bracket the spans 2 other bell housing bolts then attach it to the brace.

Have to finish the flashing to cover the gap created from cutting the rocker panels out.

I will try to post some pics later. It looks good on the street and out of the driveway.

[sunk]

Good progress over the week,

Finally got the air out of the rear brake lines and now the brakes work amazing! Guess the huge calipers on the front make a difference...

Hung the exhaust with a simple L bracket, no more noise.

Modified the transfer case brace to mount to a different bolt on the bell housing. Will have to work on removing the broken bolt next time the tranny is pulled.

Just have to cut some fenders, played around on a loading ramp to mark some areas of concern:

[Popsgarage]

Lookin' pretty damn good! Little bit o' trimmin' and away ya go!

[sunk]

Thanks

We really dont have to trim much out of the rear fender wells but I may have to eliminate the inner fender wells in the front.

also, 4.56 gears and 40's on the highway really dont do that great, but I may have been babying it a little since it was the first time out on the highway this morning.

I still have to perform a final nut and bolt check. But I want to schedule a shake down run soon, maybe Barbour forks since it is so close to town but Im not going to be able to make to cleanup run on Saturday, maybe Sunday...

[Funrover]

Looking sweet!

[sunk]

Nothing really new worked on but have been driving it to work on occasion. I have had to tighten the pitman arm nut several times. Does not seem to want to tighten up all the way. I pulled the nut from a truck at the junk yard and I think the lock nut is a little worn, may have to try and replace it. Not sure, seems there is a lot of spline showing but I cannot get it any tighter. Have had to wrench on the new U-bolts but that will continue for the next month till they stop stretching.

Just a small vibration on the highway but not bad for unbalanced 40's. They really are not noisy. Pretty hard shifting, but I guess that is the Detroit kicking in, I guess it could be caused from the backlash in the rear. The 14 bolt was re-built years ago (10?) and was never used. I think I may bring it to someone to have it checked out after a thousand miles to ensure torq settings on the carrier bearings.

Still need to do a shake down run, does anyone know when Barbour Forks closes for the season?

[Geno]

looking great, Robert and I are reading this and he is making his design changes for his K-5 as we speak. He wanted to know if he could look at the slider set up since he has smashed in both rocker panels now. next years project for him when he saves the money.

[sunk]

Geno, Check out this build:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/project-vehicles/131-0909-2009-ua-2002-ford-f250-truck-body/

While I am happy with the way the boatsides turned out, there is always something I would have done differently. I think the way they went about it would have been the way to go.

*EDIT* should have answered your question, of course you can check out the truck...:)

[sunk]

Resurrecting an old thread,

the he plan was to install the new transfer case and magnum box this weekend, but it's looking like it will rain. Going to drop the truck off at skinnyfabs tonight and hope for the best...

if all goes as planned, we will attach the new assembly and build the new crossmember. After that, billy is going to come by and take some measurements for the new driveshafts. The front will have to be longer and the rear will get a cardigan joint and also be shortened. Depending on how everything fits together I will probably have to get the exhaust rebuilt.

later on, we will build some skid plates off the new crossmember. The "plan" is to make the belly flat. I suppose that will be determined by how much we can clock the tcase. I have heard the some gentle massaging of bottom of the cab is needed...

[glacierpaul]

Sweet Adam!! Tell John and Bill hey for me. Have not heard from John since he became a dad :), can't imagine why.

[xaza]

Very sweet, maybe I missed it but what will your gearing be with that?

[Robert B]

with no body lift then yes the floor does need to be reshaped but there is a slight chance if the magnum box is big enough it might now clear the lower part of the front floor and you can go way up no prob .... the magnum box for under drive or over drive capabilities ??

[sunk]

The Magnum box is an planetary under drive unit that is installed between the transmission and t-case, this will provide 1 to 1, 2 to 1, 2.73 to 1, and final low of 5.33 to 1, this is a triple stick control and I had the np205 shift rail modified to be able to select front wheel drive only (front dig)...

My plans changed over the weekend and I did not have a chance to mess around with it. I am planning on completing this mod before the snow flies, so I will be working on it hopefully soon.

[sunk]

Getting closer....

[sunk]

Case is in, need to clearance the body just a little but all the driveline angkes look good. Next step is new crossmember then driveshafts then exhaust. Should be up and rolling next weekend.

[sunk]

installing poly mounts for everything including these cool new motor mounts

[sunk]

Also, i am no good at uploading pics from my phone

[southpaws3]

nice

[zukrider]

VERY NICE. YOU ARE GONNA LOVE THE GEARS!

[Funrover]

BEAST MODE!!!!! Rig is awesome man!

[sunk]

Towed the rig to skinnyfabs for a new crossmember!

[sunk]

Some details yet but making good progress

[Funrover]

Nice!!

[sunk]

Anyone have much experience with mating a tcase to the adaptor at the back of the 700r4? I am finding it difficult to seal this connection and I feel like the only way to properly seal it up is by draining the transmission. I have tried 3 times now with no luck.

Beyond that I have all the correct hardware for the new crossmember now, I think I have the linkage figured out. Driveshafts should be finished this week then I can fill the tcase and doubler with ATF and drive it to the exhaust shop.

[zukrider]

What are you using as a seal?

[sunk]

Black permatex gasket maker. Cleaning the surfaces with brake cleaner. The surfaces look great when setting it up but there is some bumping while lifting the case and lining the shaft up so i think thats when a little atf leaks out and ruins my seal

[zukrider]

That's the issue. ATF eats ALL wet gaskets. None can live through it. Needs to be paper.

[sunk]

Well that sounds good to me cause i dont feel like doing this very many more times. Thx for the info

[Robert B]

this will be hard to explain on the net but if the tranny has a big open adapter from tranny to tcase you could clean the inside of it and cover the bottom 1/3 of the circumference (on the inside) with a bead of the rtv to create a mini dam for the little bit that squeaks out upon install..... or if you feel comfortable with it and can find enough of a slope you can point the front of the truck down hill so that if it does leak the inside of that adapter will have it run towards the front and not get to the rtv until it has cured

[zukrider]

thats not a good idea. the atf will break the rtv down.

[carpenle]

Right Stuff is great, might be worth a try. http://www.permatex.com/products/our-brands/the-right-stuff

[sunk]

Thanks Robert, I had the idea of turning the truck around in the driveway but without driveshafts its pretty hard to get it into place. I also considered jacking up the rear but Im having a hard enough time using the floor jack as it is. The bottom of the tcase sits at 23" off the floor and I dont have a tranny jack so I am stacking 4x4 blocks of wood on the jack to reach (I can laugh about it, so can you)...

Sourced a tcase to tranny adapter gasket thru Napa, will pick it up this afternoon then hopefully one more time!

[Robert B]

i dont mean to be mean on this but i would like to see the proof behind that Zukrider .. i thought that could be the case but it works fine on my tcase/tranny and that deals with atf and the synchromesh oil but i also went out and read my tube of ultra balck and the only thing it mentions is not useable for gasoline and says is meant for oils...... and nice adam i only have 19 inches to my t case and about 18 to the crossmember

[sunk]

Finally got the adapter to doubler union sealed up! Took a paper gasket and rtv on both sides. That let me fill the cases up. The doubler took 1 qt of atf and the 205 specs call for 2.5 qts. Since i clocked the case i have read that the 205 may need some additional fluid. Problem was that the fill plug and drain plug are at about the same level. I took the PTO cover to skinnyfB and we added a new fill plug that is higher up and will accommodate all the fluid.

[sunk]

Since its all sealed up, i hooked up the linkage for the 205. This setup came from ORD and im not sure how i feel about it. It came with a bracket the attaches to the trans adapter. It flexes a little when you crank on the shifter. Will have to see how it does while rolling around.

[sunk]

Linkage for the doubler. Will have to be adjusted when i get to the point of rolling around

[sunk]

Mounted everything in the cab. Still have some gaps to fill but at least i can test everything

[sunk]

Also got a pinion gaurd for the 14bolt. Will have to be installed after i do some rolling around and testing everything.

[Chris]

Looking good Adam, you should wrap it up about the time the trails all open.

[dieseldoc]

Looks good. Enjoy the build.

[sunk]

Rig rolls again! Installed the rear driveshaft and tested out the gears. Very cool! Front shaft will be done later. All thats left is the exhaust. Sounds like a monster truck rolling around tho!

[sunk]

One more just cause

[Chris]

Rig rolls again! Installed the rear driveshaft and tested out the gears. Very cool! Front shaft will be done later. All thats left is the exhaust. Sounds like a monster truck rolling around tho!

I hope you keep the rubber side down Adam! :lmao:

[sunk]

No kidding....i cannot figure out how the pics upload and orientation when uploading from my phone....

[dieseldoc]

Lol....pics upside down....lol
looks good man.

[88Toy]

maybe a sneak peek of things to come...:D


Looking good!

[xaza]

very sweet, look forward to seeing it on the trails.

[sunk]

I really dont like where this thread is going....i need to turn those pics around....

[Funrover]

Rubber down man, RUBBER DOWN!!!

[Jim]

i cannot figure out how the pics upload and orientation when uploading from my phone....

The issue is due to orientation. Phones have sensors to know what direction is "up". When a shot is taken, and the phone is upside down, the phone, when displaying the photo that was taken "upside down" is then, nicely, displayed on the device "right side up". It's great when viewing the pic on the device - but when that pic gets sent out where "auto rotation for right-side-up" does not happen - the pic is then displayed in the orientation it was taken. The answer is to rotate the image 180 degrees and save the image and then try uploading again (I'll say there will be a small bit of "crossing fingers" that the rotation will be truly made vs. another "the phone will do what you desire to see vs. what you really want).

[sunk]

Exhaust is done, sounds cool, more rasp I guess but quiet at idle. Seems to have a little more low end torqe. Chuck did an awesome job keeping it above the frame rails.

[sunk]

While i was working on this mess I decided to try and fix the spring perches on the rear axel. The stock 1ton spacing was more narrow than the 1/2 ton stuff 40" and 42.5" respectively. We ended up purchasing perches from rough stuff. I suppose i should also say that the rear of the truck was a little lower than the front. Before deciding to replace the perches, i picked up a set of 1" zero rate blocks from ORD to correct the issue. What i found was the rough stuff perches also had some height and ended up fixing the problem.

so now i have a set of 1" zero rate add a leafs that i am not going to use. Anyone interested? ORD has them listed at $40, i will sell them to a club member for $30


http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm

[sunk]

Here are pics of the add a leafs and what i ended up with

[sunk]

So, one more of the exhaust. It shows the y pipe and all the new clearance

[gm4x4lover]

Pretty sweet. Looks like someone did a great job on the exhaust.

[sunk]

Thx Nick, chucks discount mufflers did the work.

[sunk]

He only thing stopping me from driving around is the rear brakes. While messing with the spring perches we beat up one of the flex lines. It was leaking pretty bad and needed to be replaced.

[sunk]

I picked up a new SS flex line from Leary racing yesterday. All i needed to do was bleed the rears but i broke the bleader right off the bat. I messed around with an easy out for awhile but was defeated.

i ended up replacing the calipers. Now i am having a problem with line pressure. The only thing i can think is i have a massive air bubble in the line. The plan now is the head to Austins shop and power bleed the system.

[Funrover]

Getting there

[Robert B]

im thinking of doing this also but i ask what master cylinder are you running just the stock half ton k5 one ?