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Java
November 22nd, 2013, 09:58 AM
so here's a pic of where I park, it's a Jeep 4.0 with 60,180 miles on it. I'm guessing no one needs more than that to know I have a rear main seal leak. It showed up right after I switched to synthetic oil, and it's on my winter fix list. Does anyone know of an upgrade to the rear main? Any tips or anything before I dig in? I've done this seal before on my old 88 YJ's 258, it wasn't too hard except that I screwed up 2 of the top sides before getting one in correctly, so I ended up buying 3 seals overall. Any tips for getting the top 1/2 in easily? Thanks!!

alexb
November 22nd, 2013, 09:59 AM
Take good notes so that when I develop the same problem I can come over and have help with my seals. :)

alexb
November 22nd, 2013, 10:00 AM
If you want an extra pair of hands, let me know when and I'll see if I can make it there to learn what I can look forward to.

Patrolman
November 22nd, 2013, 12:48 PM
They actually make seal drivers that may help in seating the seal evenly. Unsure if that will help. I have this one at home:
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html

Brad
November 22nd, 2013, 01:36 PM
I always recommend a seal driver.

The StRanger
November 22nd, 2013, 02:31 PM
I always recommend a seal driver.

X2!!!

carpenle
November 22nd, 2013, 04:42 PM
Is it a 2 piece rear main? My xj is a 2 piece and is pretty easy.

Java
November 22nd, 2013, 06:18 PM
Is it a 2 piece rear main? My xj is a 2 piece and is pretty easy.
it is, as far as I know all the 4.0s are the same.

Hypoid
November 22nd, 2013, 07:22 PM
Yup, you want a brass drift to push the upper half through. Penetrating oil (PBlaster) will help.

Dutch
November 22nd, 2013, 07:27 PM
Those seal drivers won't do any good as its a 2 piece seal. Just lube up the upper seal with oil or assembly lube and be gently with it. Make sure to leave it slightly offset from the bearing cap seating surface. If you want to come up to Firestone I can help you out. I've got all the tools and a heated garage.

Popsgarage
November 22nd, 2013, 08:40 PM
And you might as well do a pan gasket while you're in there. It's cheap insurance. There are a million you-tube video how to's. Just be careful not to scratch the crank or seal surface of the block when you use the punch to drive it up and out. Which is why Mike said to use a brass drift to remove it.
Rear main seal and oil pan gasket by Felpro.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//105/detail/5991587_fel_bs40612_pri_detl.jpghttp://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//103/detail/5991498_fel_os34308r_pri_detl.jpg

Java
November 24th, 2013, 09:03 AM
got my universal bearing press / seal driver ready to go! :thumb:

Popsgarage
November 24th, 2013, 12:01 PM
Follow the directions on the main seal instructions. The lip of the seal goes a certain direction (which I can't remember right now) and use good quality parts like Felpro.

Java
November 24th, 2013, 04:08 PM
for sure, Jon, cheap parts are their own reward. I found a few great write ups on it, and this one http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811 shows the Felpro solution to the problem I had with the upper half of the seal. Glad it's not just me! I'm still nowhere near actually doing this, my goal is to get it done before spring Moab. Just lining up the ducks...

Popsgarage
November 24th, 2013, 07:15 PM
Just lining up the ducks...

Prior proper planning prevents all sorts of problems later!