88 4runner 4x4 22re novice desert racer

[94ToyBear]

Well I'm at it once more but this time with my buddy arron !
My friend Arron and I can't stop thinking of desert racing/baja
We put an ad up for a 1st gen runner or a pick up with a 22re and Nick answered our calls ! Thanks Nick nice doing business with you !
We went halfs on a 88 4runner 22re 4x4.
What we wanted was simple, cheep, toyota, 4x4, 22re, light, fun to break and fix. Little to no rust.
Everything we do will be decided by both of us and everything we buy and all work will be done by both of us.
First thing we did is a compression test All cyl have 175 psi !!! Woooohoo we got lucky ! It allso has simi new ngk plugs, wires, cap, rotor, nice green coolant and newer looking hoses. It starts runs and drives, has a hesitation when cold, no ticks, knocks, sounds pretty darn smooth once warmed up !


This is gona be fun ! The cool thing is we can and should be able to drive the to trails aswell!!

[94ToyBear]

This is where this runners last days were going to be if we didnt pick it of Nick. Glad we did.
Also got a rule book for score International/baja. Figured we might aswell build it for baja thus being our ultimate goal and if it good enough for baja it will be good enough for smaller races like C.O.R.E.

[Chris]

Cool, I'd love to desert race! My son-inlaws brother goes to Baja every year for the races. he blew the engine of his per runner this year.

[94ToyBear]

Cool, I'd love to desert race! My son-inlaws brother goes to Baja every year for the races. he blew the engine of his per runner this year. yeah you were saying it cost him 100k to even be competitive !!! Do you have any pics or link of his pre runner ?

We justplan on doing this for fun and looking in to the sports man classes. Looks like we have a few options just need to pick one and start builing.

[Chris]

He says he just does it for fun, next time I'm at his shop I'll get some pics. I'll try to remember to ask details, I think I'm picking him up at the airport later today.

[94ToyBear]

Is he in denver ? I'd really like to meet people who do this for fun!

[Chris]

His shop is in Lakewood and his truck is probably there. I'll try to get the handle on things, I'm not sure it's there while they build the new motor.

[Patrolman]

Cool build idea! Looks like my 87 4Runner did when I bought it 10 years ago from a roommate for $800. Best vehicle I have ever owned.

I assume you are ditching a lot of parts, including the top, etc? I assume you have looked at Total Chaos stuff? They are pricey, but browsing could give you some good ideas.

[94ToyBear]

Yeah were thinking about selling the top.... what do they go for ? For now were not going to put a whole bunch of cash on suspension parts yet. Safety first. Roll cage, helmets, fire suits, extinguishers, fuel cell then suspention. But yeah seems like Total chaos has some pretty sweet stuff !

[Patrolman]

The tops are dirt cheap. The issue is every 4Runner came with one, and they don't rust out. They also aren't prone to breakage so most are in decent shape. Same story with the rollbar. They aren't worth much more than just scrap tubing. I am cutting one up for other project parts.

Some other parts you may be getting rid of, such as the mud flaps, actually have a bit of value for someone keeping their 4Runner stock.

A trick guys do if they ditch the top is to ditch the tailgate and use a pickup tailgate. If your window works ok, the 4Runner gate might get $100.

Let me know when you might sell parts off. I am always looking for little things to complete my 4Runner.

[94ToyBear]

That's what my buddy said about the top. He might keep it i
or his 86 that he bobbed and bob it aswell.the roll bar is going the flaps will most likky go but not sure (I have another set aswell) not sure if we will run a tail gate at all but I like the truck gate more.

What exactly are you looking for ? if were not going to use it ill give you first shot at it after arron gets what he need for his.

[Haku]

Is he in denver ? I'd really like to meet people who do this for fun!

One of my good friends Kirby and I are helping another friend Tom (a local ER doctor) check off his bucket list of doing the Baja 250 with this Gem of a Ranger...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/331723_4065157382705_1047519532_o.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgbcc41URlI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgbcc41URlI)

Tom bought it without an engine with the intent to enter it as an "Ultra-Green" category vehicle using a Diesel engine and WVO fuel. It has a Mitsubishi diesel in it now, but we are still going through the setup phase of things.

I've actually been getting stuff together to do a similar build of my 4runner. I have the the "Weld it yourself" Blazeland kit sitting on the shelf and some donor lower arms, and will be installing it over the winter. Its a economical($200 for the kit plus $75 for the arms) way to get some travel out of the stock IFS system(they say 12" is possible). It uses a similar idea to the Total Chaos kit i.e. using Tundra/T-100 CV's and gets the maximum safe travel out of what the stock mounts will get you. Much more and you really have to start looking at getting rid of the drive to the front axles or making a custom center mounted differential and stronger CV's. To really get the most of it, I will need to upgrade to coilovers instead of the Torsion bars, but that will be in the future. I'm in it less then $3k so far with vehicle purchase and mods, so I can't complain too much.

I would check out both www.race-dezert.com (http://www.race-dezert.com) and www.dezertrangers.com (http://www.dezertrangers.com) for a great place to get ideas about what it will take to get ready for a given racing class. Those guys live and breath desert racing and have a ton of experience with it. There are a few 4runners on there and a bunch of Pickups/Tacoma's and various other brands. I will say, if you thought Solid Axle rock crawling stuff is expensive, the desert world will take it to a completely different level. Even the basic kit from Total Chaos or JD Fab is gonna run $2k before shocks and springs and the stuff to mount them. Going with their full on RWD only race setup is like $5k or something, but is a bit more thorough (it gets rid of the diff and moves the mounts towards the center of the vehicle and can get 15" of very usable travel).

Its easy to find fenders for the front (a bunch of choices) but wider fenders for the rear end are more involved and require a lot of body work for 4runners if you want to go wider. You can find bedsides, but they are all designed for pickups and take a lot of work to get fit to a 4runner. Most guys toss a Ford 9" in the rear since its relatively cheap but strong, but a few use the Tundra rear axle to match the wider long travel front kits (its 8" wider then the IFS minitruck ones) but sometimes have issues with blown Ring and Pinions.

While the desert scene here isn't as big as in Southern California, there are still races at places like CORE and RAM Offroad, and some down near Santa Fe and Albuquerque. The local ones don't really have cash prizes unfortunately, but whether that is good or bad really depends on if you plan on really trying to get some money back with it or not. I'm honestly not sure whether we will manage to run in the Baja 250 this year with the Ranger, but its a definite possibility assuming the owner is willing to throw some cash at it. In our case, crossing the line before the time runs out will be considered a victory, and the budget reflects that. We aren't gonna be in the Ultra-Green since it requires a hybrid vehicle, and ownership of the race has changed hands in the last year and lots has changed. If you just want to get out and race, there are many more less strict racing series to compete in that you can spend less money and still do allright in to get your legs. Definitely doesn't hurt to build it to the Score standards though just in case. My one recommendation is to pay attention to the "wearable" safety equipment and not purchase it till you absolutely need it (harnesses being the big one) since they have a 2 year replacement policy on them and you want to maximize the usable life of them. They may still work great, but the second they are 2 years old you can't use them in competition anymore.

I'll leave it there for now, but I'd definitely love to help get your stuff going in exchange for getting mine going too. You or anyone is more then welcome to come have a look at the Ranger too, or even come help with the wrenching and fab. I can't promise a lot of pay, but if you provide services that are of a benefit then its definitely worth discussing with Tom. Especially looking for people who are good with these Mitsubishi diesels (or diesels in general) since some of the issues we are having revolves around that engine.

I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with this build for sure.

[94ToyBear]

Wow thanks a lot for all the info ! I'd be more the. happy to help out on the ranger no need for pay as long as I'm gaining knowledge and my abilities arnt taken advantage of (sadly that Happends). Ill definitely be in touch with you can you PM me contact info.

Thanks.
ADAM

[Haku]

No problem, I'll send the contact info shortly. Kirby is out of the country at least until after new Years working on his business, but he wants to hit the truck hard and get it going shortly after getting home. He is setting up manufacturing in Vietnam, which usually provides a moving target for finish times (he always says he is only gonna go for 3 weeks and ends up there for 3 months). There are a few projects I definitely know about that we can do in the meantime if you are really wanting to get your hands dirty though. Honestly, it will be up to you on what you take on with it and definitely let us know, if you do end up working on it, whether you feel taken advantage of.

Putting that to one side, the feeling I got from the race we went to and from talking to people, is that you really don't have to jump in with both feet to get a feel whether its going to work for you. Take it in steps and don't feel like you have to spend a ton of money to even feel comfortable entering. Sure, if you are going for a championship or one of the "hero" races like the Baja series its not gonna be cheap or easy, but if you just want to have fun and race a truck then there is ample opportunities to do so with a small budget. There are so many different ways you can go with a build and spend a ton of money doing so, but you aren't really going to know what kind of style you like till you get some seat time. I think you are taking the right track by just getting yourself safe first, and then upgrade performance from there.

This is something that I've been trying to drill into Kirby and Tom (who plan on sharing driving duties for the race) with this Ranger and what they want to do. I'm pretty sure Tom expects that he'll throw $20-30k at a race truck and just expect to finish the race with minimal practice or tuning time, and its just not the case. Kirby is so worried about it, that he is insisting on driving the first leg because he thinks Tom will crash/break the truck during his stint. I keep trying to get Tom to commit to smaller races first, but he has his mind set on the Baja, so we'll see how successful I am with that.

Anyways, good luck with the build and let me know if there is anything I can help with. I have the Ranger, my Blue Toyota Crawler, and my little white 4runner build, plus I need to make sure my new Tow rig is up to snuff for the coming season, but I should still have time to help with this rig too if you need it.

Can't remember if you have a bender, but you are welcome to mine if you want. Score rules for a cage are 1.75" .120 wall if you are going mild steel DOM, or .090 for 4130 I believe, and that is the size die I have. I also have Bend Tech Pro if you want to use it to design the cage. I believe MIG welding is allowed as well, but I'm sure TIG is preferred. Otherwise, I believe the only restrictions for cage design are it needs at least one diagonal bar on the b-pillar and nothing can be within 3" of the drivers or passengers head.

[94ToyBear]

Thanks ! If you don't mind I'd like to come check out your bender. I built a bender while in school but can nit find a die for it. I'm in thhe prosses of building a die with no expectation for it to work.

I belive your right on the rule cage rules. Thats one of the largest safety rules in the book. Ill have to go over it.

[Patrolman]

I would consider the rear gate if you decide to swap for the truck gate. The truck gate swap saves you 20 or 30 pounds I think, that is why the guys do the swap. Mine is showing its age, and of course, I plan on retaining the top, so I can't swap to the truck gate as I need to retain the window. I might also consider some interior parts. Unsure what else you would get rid of that I could use as it sounds like most of the drivetrain is staying intact for now.

[Haku]

You are welcome to come have a look at the bender anytime. Its just a JD2 model 3 that I upgraded to air/hydro, but if you want to come take measurements or anything let me know.

I know the shape of the main die isn't perfectly round and has a slightly elliptical shape to it, but not sure exactly how they do it. I imagine they have a custom fly cutter or similar at the die maker, but I'm sure you could get it to work with standard tooling. I'm a novice machinist at best and definitely not an engineer, but I'd be happy to help you out however I can.

The roll cage section isn't actually all that long. It just says you need to mount it to the vehicle a certain way, that it needs certain elements incorporated, and what vehicle weight designates what material to be used. I have a Score rulebook around here somewhere that I should find too.

[94ToyBear]

I would consider the rear gate if you decide to swap for the truck gate. The truck gate swap saves you 20 or 30 pounds I think, that is why the guys do the swap. Mine is showing its age, and of course, I plan on retaining the top, so I can't swap to the truck gate as I need to retain the window. I might also consider some interior parts. Unsure what else you would get rid of that I could use as it sounds like most of the drivetrain is staying intact for now.

Ok if the gate ends up going ill give you a shout. DT is staying. And for the interior parts let me get with my partner on crime and is he wants anything.

[94ToyBear]

Jeff do you happend to have a extra rear drive shaft ? This one has a ding in it from a fork lift.

[Patrolman]

I have a couple shafts, but not a stock one for the 4Runner. I think that I have 1 Tacoma front, 1 Tacoma rear, and 1 87 front. For what a used one might cost you, you might consider going to Bill's and getting the stock one rebuilt. He will put in a thicker wall tube and make sure it can stand the punishment.

[Haku]

I have a couple shafts, but not a stock one for the 4Runner. I think that I have 1 Tacoma front, 1 Tacoma rear, and 1 87 front. For what a used one might cost you, you might consider going to Bill's and getting the stock one rebuilt. He will put in a thicker wall tube and make sure it can stand the punishment.

The last time I had this done it was around $100 or so and definitely worth every penny.

[Patrolman]

Same here. I think it was in that price range.

[94ToyBear]

Just back from bill for another shaft....forgot to ask him hes got great prices !

[Haku]

So....saw you did the "test day" at CORE....do much else to this thing before you went?

[94ToyBear]

we ended up repairing the gas tank it at 2 holes from the junk yard. we did buy a used one but it ended up being to far gone. we replaced the Tires, rims, front rotors and pads, turned the rear drums clean and adjust as well. fuel filter, oil change, optima battery and strap some minor electrical, took the top off, gutted the insides with 2 seats left over, check oils and grease it all, rebuild the rear drive shaft. I have pics ill have to load them soon.

[Haku]

Oh cool....so pretty much just bringing it to a good working order but still relatively stock modification wise? That is pretty much where I am at with my 4runner too, though springs are worn out and will be getting replaced with 63" Chevy springs shortly (I recieved the stuff over the weekend...just need to bang it out).

I'm definitely curious to see if anything got stressed with all those jumps you were doing. I've talked to guys who beat the heck out of their Rock Crawler tube buggies doing all kinds of full throttle attacks on ledges and stuff, and they said it pales in comparison to hitting jumps and going through whoops at high speed. Big kudos to Toyota for making a strong setup if its still mostly intact.

[94ToyBear]

Oh cool....so pretty much just bringing it to a good working order but still relatively stock modification wise? That is pretty much where I am at with my 4runner too, though springs are worn out and will be getting replaced with 63" Chevy springs shortly (I recieved the stuff over the weekend...just need to bang it out).

I'm definitely curious to see if anything got stressed with all those jumps you were doing. I've talked to guys who beat the heck out of their Rock Crawler tube buggies doing all kinds of full throttle attacks on ledges and stuff, and they said it pales in comparison to hitting jumps and going through whoops at high speed. Big kudos to Toyota for making a strong setup if its still mostly intact. its all stock ! crazy huh !Im sure something is stressed but just cant see it with the naked eye. as far as driving it was totally fine at the end of the day, only thing that came lose was the passenger head light. I was actually planning on bringing it back on a stretcher that day but nope it held it own like champ to my surprise as well. next thing is to install the Beard Offroad racing seats we got on Sunday. on the look out for a set of 5 point harness and hopefully a cage

[Haku]

Other then limited travel, the two main weak points I've heard about with the IFS is the torsion bars twisting or breaking (or the splined "key" that attaches to the arms) and the steering idler arm bending and/or breaking and throwing the steering out of alignment. Sway Away torsion bars aren't too expensive (and could probably be found used for cheap if you looked in the right place) and there are braces and majorly upgraded replacements for the idler arm.

The steering box itself is quite strong if you beef the frame where it mounts up, but I think the steering crossover bar is also a weak link (at least, Total Chaos sells a beefy and expensive upgraded one so there must be a need). Otherwise, it seems like the Toyota arms are relatively strong and only REALLY need upgraded to increase travel and ride quality.

Honestly, if you are gonna be doing that stuff then its time to get a real roll cage. One small miscalculation and the rig goes tumbling and it won't just be the rig going out on a stretcher. Plus, I'm pretty sure that is a basic requirement for even the small racing series at CORE. $700 for a nice DOM cage from 4xinnovations is well worth it IMHO.

[94ToyBear]

Josh whats the deal on your ranger ? did you get it going ? id like to check it out some time !

[94ToyBear]

eventually id like to get away from the torsion bars and go coil over and long arms but don't want to spend a crap load of cash on thing im not sure of. id like to meet people who do this competitively and see what they did. the idler arm was a little lose from the start so im sure its even more. my 94 was that way. every time I took it wheeling (when it was stock IFS) I bent. finally said screw its in going solid. I know it wont last long this way and up grades will have to be made. but if we can get a summer and at least one race attempt out of it id be very happy to build it over the summer. no kidding about the cage I have no problem spend that about on a nice safe cage. even if I can make it for half the cost... still one of those thing you leave for the professionals.

[Haku]

Josh whats the deal on your ranger ? did you get it going ? id like to check it out some time !

Not mine REALLY, but we have been working on it some. Spent a few days last week getting the steering remounted because it was kinda janky and the mounts had cracks in them. Like everything it snow balled to a point where we decided to replace the whole steering column assembly since everything looked worn.

Right now we are waiting on parts, but might do a few things this week while we wait. It is inside the Club Workshop at the moment, but we'll probably be driving it back outside again in the next day or so. I'm definitely gonna be there at least one day this week if you want to come have a look at it.

If you still want to help, there are some electrical things we have to figure out, we need to bleed the brakes again, and the power steering setup is woefully under powered so we need to figure out how to mount a bigger power steering pump to it. There a bunch of small odd jobs that are more "backburner" stuff too. I want to work on this a bunch too, but I also have my own projects so I get frustrated when I know I could be working on my own stuff instead sometimes. I can't complain too much though, as I brought it on myself.

Anyways, let me know if you have some time and want to come have a look. CWS is near 8th and I-25.

[Haku]

eventually id like to get away from the torsion bars and go coil over and long arms but don't want to spend a crap load of cash on thing im not sure of. id like to meet people who do this competitively and see what they did. the idler arm was a little lose from the start so im sure its even more. my 94 was that way. every time I took it wheeling (when it was stock IFS) I bent. finally said screw its in going solid. I know it wont last long this way and up grades will have to be made. but if we can get a summer and at least one race attempt out of it id be very happy to build it over the summer. no kidding about the cage I have no problem spend that about on a nice safe cage. even if I can make it for half the cost... still one of those thing you leave for the professionals.

Blazeland and others make a Idler arm brace that helps a ton with that happening. Other ones seem to be a bit more beefy and offer more support, but you can't beat the price of the Blazeland one...

Blazeland (WIY $29 Welded $39)
http://blazeland.us/imagesc/Blazeland_current/A_IAB_FA5040.JPG/width:640/height:480

Blazeland also makes a Weld It Yourself (WIY) kit that extends the A-arms 3" and uses T100/Tundra CV's (like Total Chaos does) and claims to get 12" of travel out of the setup...

http://blazeland.us/la-weld-up/
http://blazeland.us/imagesc/640/480/WeldUpParts.JPG

What they'll look like done and cleaned up and painted
http://blazeland.us/imagesc/640/480/LA_kit.jpg

You can see it soaks up the bumps a bit better (though could use better shocks IMHO)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqQwfF_ew1A

He sells this as a completed kit seen(no cutting/welding of the arms required...seen in the second lower picture above) and offers a kit to convert to coilovers too, but actually recommends to keep the Torsion bar and crank it back some to act as a dual rate/bump stop. I paid $250 for the WIY kit but he might have altered pricing since then. He wants $1150 for the bolt on kit that comes with brake lines and steering extension and such. You'd still have to find T100 CV's and longer shocks and such too. Still the cheapest way to get into a what seems like a well designed kit though. The Coilover mount kit is another $400, but seems relatively worth it. I don't think anyone has seriously used it in a race, but it seems to hold up to recreational messing about so I'm sure it could get through the CORE races.

[94ToyBear]

Not mine REALLY, but we have been working on it some. Spent a few days last week getting the steering remounted because it was kinda janky and the mounts had cracks in them. Like everything it snow balled to a point where we decided to replace the whole steering column assembly since everything looked worn.

Right now we are waiting on parts, but might do a few things this week while we wait. It is inside the Club Workshop at the moment, but we'll probably be driving it back outside again in the next day or so. I'm definitely gonna be there at least one day this week if you want to come have a look at it.

If you still want to help, there are some electrical things we have to figure out, we need to bleed the brakes again, and the power steering setup is woefully under powered so we need to figure out how to mount a bigger power steering pump to it. There a bunch of small odd jobs that are more "backburner" stuff too. I want to work on this a bunch too, but I also have my own projects so I get frustrated when I know I could be working on my own stuff instead sometimes. I can't complain too much though, as I brought it on myself.

Anyways, let me know if you have some time and want to come have a look. CWS is near 8th and I-25. that seems to be the hardest part of all this.....TIME. I don't have any to spare really other then to just hang out for a few and give my opinions. right now my Gym time is before work 6 a.m. for an hour and my lunch time is my work on a project time. after work im on daddy duty. Id still like to come by and just see something up close and maybe put my 2 cents in on something's. you club shop is a few mins from work and home. I have seen that kit before and seem like a good great idea for what we are doing. and later on down the road we can go with the pro stuff. id be more in to the weld kit but once more time ! who knows first I want to make it safe.

[Haku]

Yeah...that is pretty much my thinking too. After talking with even the smaller players in Baja and other large race series, I can't say I'm all that interested in spending as much money as it takes to do that sport. I'd be more likely to go do the stock or stock modified class in King of Hammers or something first for sure. My goal with my rig is to just go have some cheap and safe high speed fun that can still go do some trails. I'm around $3k into my 4runner so far, and hope to not go much more into it. Definitely less then $5k when it is all said and done with coilovers and a cage and such. I have my Crawler for anything more then that too. There are definitely days where I consider selling the 4runner too though, since its just one more project.

Anyways, enough about me in your build thread. I'll let you know when I am going to be at CWS this week. I might go tomorrow, but will definitely go in either Wednesday, Thursday or Friday if not all three.

[gm4x4lover]

I missed this thread entirely. I am glad someone grabbed it. It would have pained me to crush the poor thing.

[94ToyBear]

I missed this thread entirely. I am glad someone grabbed it. It would have pained me to crush the poor thing.

Us to ! Shes doing better then ever !

[94ToyBear]

Thanks to Josh I was able to find out what model my tube bender that I made back in school is based off of. Its the JD2 model 3. I have a die and notcher on oeder. This is gona be pretty dang fun ! Thanks Josh for your time and efforts

[94ToyBear]

Now for the material question.... where is everyone getting thire 1 3/4 .120 wall DOM from ? My metal place is Altitude steal but last I remember they dont carry DOM on hand. IM sure if I get DOM from them they will mark it up aswell. Anyone have a DOM hot spots ?

[Haku]

No problem at all dude, I'm happy that I could help. I talked to Steve (the owner of CWS) and he said he would totally dig having some of your students down for a field trip if you wanted to do that. I have no idea what his schedule is, but he is almost always there on Thursday nights if you want to go talk to him.

My list of places to call around to for DOM are Marmon Keystone, C and M Iron, Tube Service, and if you remnant pieces K and K surplus has a good stock of stuff. If you need short pieces, Ruffstuff Specialties actually has reasonable prices and shipping rates too. I'm sure there are other places around town that you can look and I'd love to hear about them too.

[94ToyBear]

Gave a few place a call. Key stone is going to be the winner with it being 3.45 a foot hlaf the cost of other places. Thanks for the tips josh !

[Haku]

Cool..glad that worked out. When I got mine, Marmon Keyston was cheaper to buy DOM from then all the other places were to buy HREW tubing from, so it was a no brainer. I might actually be interested in getting a few more lengths of tube too, so let me know when you decide to throw down on the purchase.

[94ToyBear]

Is it the more you buy the cheeper ? Well most likely order in a week when the notcher,die and degree come in. I also finished up the hydo conversion today. Went pretty well a based the designe off your. ( Clamp style). I liked how yours is Simple less to break simple cheep to build. 10 bucks for 20 lbs of steel and still have 15 of it left over. Ill post pics soon hopefully. Im looking In to the photo bucket stuff. It takes to long for me to convert the format and up load them to FR

[94ToyBear]

To late Josh. Thing worked out time wise and was ready to order...im sure ill be doing another order soon for My other projects.

[Haku]

To late Josh. Thing worked out time wise and was ready to order...im sure ill be doing another order soon for My other projects.

No worries...it was probably just gonna collect dust for a while anyways. If you do another order let me know for sure though.

It definitely gets cheaper as you buy more, but I'm not sure where the price breaks happen. All I know is I wanted to buy one or two random lengths and it was twice the price as when I bought 5 sticks 6 months before.

[94ToyBear]

I was etimatated 3.45 a foot for 4 18 ft sticks.. not bad considering it over twice the amount else wear. I may do a big order soon cc and just stash it for a while. I dont see it going any cheeper then that.

[94ToyBear]

Got the tube today, die. Deg wheel, and notcher will be in tomarrow.

[Haku]

Sweet...all of that will be awesome to have. I look forward to seeing what you create with it :D

[94ToyBear]

Everything is in and put together. built a rolling base to moke it around. Cant wait and try it out Monday morning.

[94ToyBear]

Went to c.o.r.e for the 1race of the season and ran across an old school 86 desert racer. Was told it actully ran and finished the baja 1000 and was seen on dust to glory. Dont know if any of this is true but either way it cought my buddy and I attention. Seemed to set up for the pure stock and allthough beat to hell and didnt go very fast it took 3rd place out of about 15 other well set up prerunner and rock buggies. On thing
I noticed is he had dual front shocks on the stock ifs. They were mounted on the top of the stock upper control arm with a hoop. Im thinking its easy and cheep to run it this way.... my question is if any one had any experience with dual shocks and what should I know ?