Tacoma high clearance rear bumper build

[ILuvtheMountains]

Done. 4/28/14-6/17/15
417days
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/43ee708db2579f50431a43f564d10422.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/3953a67700f690f15d034a91a4b9abd0.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/95e7f689fd003cf8ed4cc8e4ff27141d.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/df1159d59d2df2dd9739ab1aa88d3697.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/c1b3f81ab46ff642fcdc405861dc92dc.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/4d3fc6f5071dfecc5737a2b670aa3501.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/ce42d0b0c60f71d7e93dac84ae1c7ad7.jpg

[ccbruin]

That's a ton of weight! IRC your using a lot of 1/4" plate, I would only use that on the mounts personally.

[ILuvtheMountains]

I am using tube in my new design and most of it was going to be 1/4 but I think that, as you said, will be overkill. I don't think that I need another redesign, but I will decrease the thickness of almost everything.

[Funrover]

While I love overkill, 1/4" is a tad to much. I know from personal experience.

[gm4x4lover]

Is that including the wheel and tire? Aaron just built that front winch bumper out of plate and if I remember correctly it was only 83 lbs.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Nope, not including the tire and wheel. I think if I take the thickness down by half on almost everything that will be able to shave nearly shave nearly half the weight.

[Robert B]

id be interested to see the design and how it got that high lol

[ExplorerTom]

My bumpers are 3/16" plate and weigh about 90-100 lbs front and 100-110 rear (no tire or gas can).

[Max]

The rear Jeep bumper I was looking at is about 120 with no wheel and tire.

[Rick]

213lbsDamn!!!!!!!!!!:eek:

[ILuvtheMountains]

Damn!!!!!!!!!!:eek:
Go big or go home, right!? I figure I can pretty much get hit by a train and won't have to worry about anything. Even after I pick new material

[ccbruin]

You were going to use 1/4" tubing? That's crazy overkill, that's lower long arm material! .120" wall is plenty strong for a bumper and that's what I use for most of mine.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Okay, so I went down to .120" tubing for much of my design, other than the places where I expect the bumper to hit/drag on the ground during steep climbs/descents/ coming off ledges and got the weight down to 142lbs. Keep in mind that I am making a bumper that goes across the rear of the vehicle (duh) but also wraps around and goes right up to behind the rear wheel wells (30" on each side). The width of the rear is 67" and with those two sides totaling another 60", I am almost making two bumpers. That is why it has so much weight. I will likely be adding another leaf to my leaf packs to handle the extra weight and the redistribution of weight toward the rear of the vehicle.

[gm4x4lover]

Go big or go home, right!? I figure I can pretty much get hit by a train and won't have to worry about anything. Even after I pick new material

You need to have some sort of give in your design other wise something else during an impact is going to have a negative impact else where, IE your frame.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Excellent point. The main structural parts that tie into the frame will match oem materials so that should be good, I figured anyway. The only parts that are going to be more than 1/8 are those on the bottom, so that should give breakaway zones but still have years of dragging it over rocks before any holes show up.

[Cr33p3r]

Even with you reduction in weight that is still 1/8 the total weight of my exo cage I built on the ranger. Some good points have been addressed especially the one of at some point something somewhere has to give if not the bumper. Over kill can be a good thing if applied to the right areas like the mounts to the frame and also where your pivot point will be for the tire swing. Can you post a picture of your design to give us a better idea of the bumper and maybe we can better help with the strong and weak points of it.

[ILuvtheMountains]

There is actually a huge problem with my design now. I never thought about how heavy the tire/wheel combo will be when swinging over. I was trying to avoid the extra space needed behind the truck by a swing out so I designed for a swing over. Everything looked great, I went and bought steel yesterday and now I realized that my wife would probably not be able to get the tire back to a closed position. CRAP! I am trying to think of simple mechanical advantage I can incorporate. If not I may have to change stuff up to use a standard swingout design. Not sure you will be able to see this very well but here goes:

[ILuvtheMountains]

That round feature is the spindle. The dust cap is facing you. These drawings don't include the actual arm that has the tire on it. The flat spot to the left and right of the spindle is where the arm would have sat to take weight off of get spindle when open and closed.

[Cr33p3r]

From looking at the drawing I would say with the tire on it it could easily weigh close to your original weight. So I understand correctly your tire was going to swing out or down?

[ILuvtheMountains]

Swing in an arc from left to right. I think I am going to have to go to a normal swingout though. I can't believe I overlooked the weight issue on the moving part. My most recent design has much less material and simple swingout. Sorry for giving you guys such a difficult path to follow with the idea change but I will draft out this new one and repost it.

[Hypoid]

:lmao: That is why we number the drafts. ;)

[Hypoid]

From looking at the drawing I would say with the tire on it it could easily weigh close to your original weight. So I understand correctly your tire was going to swing out or down?Just looking at the drawings, and the statement about working with limited room behind the vehicle, I thing the spare moves in a vertical plane, as opposed to a horizontal plane. There are some interesting possibilities with the concept; like having the spare close to the ground when it is needed.


I realized that my wife would probably not be able to get the tire back to a closed positionIs she strong enough to muscle the spare off the mount, and boost the dead tire/wheel back up to the mounting bracket? I think your original concept can be fine tuned to give her increased mechanical advantage.

[Chris]

Is she strong enough to muscle the spare off the mount, and boost the dead tire/wheel back up to the mounting bracket? I think your original concept can be fine tuned to give her increased mechanical advantage.

Just add hydraulics! I've seen it done, the builder did it specifically with his wife in mind.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Yeah I don't mind drawing new revisions. Every time I do I am making and fixing expensive mistakes without actually spending money. Now I have my unique idea that I don't know if it will work and then another that I know will work but is more run-of-the-mill but lighter and more simple to build.

Hmmm decisions decisions. Need to use some physics to see what force would be required to move the tire each way.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Just add hydraulics! I've seen it done, the builder did it specifically with his wife in mind.
That's what I have been trying to dream up but I know nothing about that stuff and the mechanics/geometry that goes into making a set up like that

[Chris]

Me either, a guy down in Castle Rock did it a few years back, pretty cool but he was a gadget builder with more money than I'll ever have.

[ILuvtheMountains]

I sent a message to the guy who I saw use that method to find out at least where he got it then I can go from there.

[Hypoid]

I'm a simple kinda feller. My thinking starts @ 0:54


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PW7ztbwJKBk

If you could make the lever longer or shorter to suit the need, and find a way to stabilize the load while you reset the lever, you could get off pretty cheap.

[ILuvtheMountains]

I have been thinking about how to make that work without having the lever be super long to the point of being Unreachable when totally vertical. I wish we were sitting in a shop together right now so that I could get you guys' excellent ideas and show you exactly what I had planned to see what we need to do to make it happen.

[ExplorerTom]

I've never understood why you'd want your tire to fold down. It moves it out of the way for the back hatch to open but it's still in your way while tryng to access the rear cargo area. And then you have to lift the tire and support piece back into position.

mine opens to the right. Requires virtually no effort to open or close- even with a 33" tire and 5 gallons of gas on the arm.

[Cr33p3r]

This is what I am going to be using the linear actuator for that I just picked up cause the weight of the 35s sitting up so high I know there is NO WAY Val could ever lift it on or off the mount. It will be a drop down so it will also act like a step for her too.

[ILuvtheMountains]

I am for sure now doing a standard swingout but it will be offset to the right. I shaved a ton of weight and have better places for recovery points. Hope to get the frame brackets built one night this week then I am taking next Monday off work to spend a whole day cranking on this.

[The StRanger]

I was thinkin of useing a HF #1,000 Badlands winch as a spare lift ??

[ILuvtheMountains]

Will probably start a build thread just for this project, but figured some of you guys that helped me before will want to see this. Here is the product of the first day of bumper building. That main piece is a 3"x5" 1/4" thick rectangle tube that will be an air tank that I can prefill before I go wheeling and will be able to route my air up kit from the ARB compressor to refill as needed.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_59921.JPG (http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/401738/cat/500)
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_59941.JPG (http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/401737/cat/500)
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_5998.JPG (http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/401740/cat/500)
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_59971.JPG (http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/401739/cat/500)
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_5995.JPG (http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/401736/cat/500)
Still need to finish weld and grind, then start building the rest of the back and sides, which will match the design of my sliders with angular, two-tiered 2x2 square tubing. I will also try to incorporate much of that into the air tank reservoir. The tire carrier spindle will go on the right side and will be mounted in the 2x2 structure.

[Cr33p3r]

Nice start so far, keep the progress pics coming as you move forward.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Only had a little bit of time to work on it but got the holes drilled out then reamed out to 5/8" with a die grinder. Thought our holes were way off until we gave it a few whacks with a mallet to move it the smallest amount then saw that all of our holes were great. Making the connection between fabricated piece and oem bracketry was one of the tougher parts. Not difficulty-wise, but it took time to make sure everything lined up and was even. The frame rails taper in towards each other very slightly under the bed and so our mounts had to be heated with a torch and bent just slightly.
Anyway, I have the skeleton of the bumper and it is bolted on. I have been driving around for the last week with my license plate zip tied to my 7-pin wire, now it's zip tied to a incomplete bumper. Small steps my friends. Very small steps.

[ILuvtheMountains]

I think we have landed on a design that will work. Here was the small progress today:

[Cr33p3r]

Every masterpiece start with small steps and some of the better designs come as you go, at least they do for me.

[ILuvtheMountains]

I agree. I am excited with what we have planned, but that may change as we get to it because we keep finding ways to make it lighter, smaller, stronger so who knows what it will be like in the end! Thanks for the words of encouragement.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Here is the next baby step:

[Patrolman]

Nice work!

[Cr33p3r]

Looking good, I would suggest using some fish plates on the corners where you welded your side pieces on to the main piece. Adds a bunch of strength while keeping the weight down.

[ILuvtheMountains]

I will do a few things to finish/strengthen it, but I have never heard of fish plates. Do you have an example in a picture you can show me?

[Cr33p3r]

Here is a couple examples for you to get the idea.

[ILuvtheMountains]

So does the plate just span the seam between the two pieces?

[Brucker]

So does the plate just span the seam between the two pieces?

Fishplates= http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fishplate

They are reinforcement plates that span the outside of a butt weld. Especially in areas where welds were vertical or horizontal. Usually the two pieces are welded together, then the weld is ground/sanded down flat and fishplates are added to the outside to add strength and rigidity. When used the amount of weld area is increased greatly. They are usually made so there are no vertical or horizontal weld beads as these types of welds can actually cause stress and lead to cracking and early fatigue.

Same principles can apply when using weld washers as well. Helps to evenly spread the load.

Hope that this helps.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Thanks, that does help. Will it be effective to just put them underneath? I am not totally opposed to putting them on top too, but if I can keep it cleaner looking and still have a solid product, I would choose that.

[Cr33p3r]

You can do them anywhere you want, If doing just one side like the bottom I would also do one on the inside of the corner.

[glacierpaul]

Looking good Travis.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Thanks Paul!

Sean, would a fish plate on an inside corner be like a gusset or would it actually be an L-shaped piece of steel?

[Cr33p3r]

Travis, It would be bent into an L shape, it would stiffen the joint so as to help prevent it bending outward breaking your welds. Its stronger than the gusset in this case due to a gusset only being welded in one basic area as to where the fish plate covers so much more surfaceand is basically doubling the thickness in the area it covers.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Another little bit of progress. The hitch. The main body piece is 3x5 and the oem hitch had the hole for the hitch pin at 2.5" so after wrestling with some ideas I decided to just recess the front of the hitch receiver tube.
First I had to cut out the notch for the tube to get welded in:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/3abuny2y.jpg
Then I cut steel to sleeve the notch and got it welded in:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/uhumy9a6.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/9umyrybu.jpg
Then drilled the hole for the hitch pin and welded the receiver tube in.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/7y3avypy.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/7e4epyry.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/7yma2use.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/ahabe2eb.jpg

[javaman34]

Wow, I like that. Let me know how that holds up.

[Cr33p3r]

Looks good, with the amount of tube behind the bumper maybe put a vertical gusset on the top of the tube upto the bumper for added support so it doesn't rip out just in case your towing something heavier than you intially plan on. Whats the lowered white chevy next to the Tacoma? A '65?

[Robert B]

i have one question ... why not flip the hitch mount and get it flush or near flush to the outside ( just chop the excess off) ????? just curious as im still designing my rear bumper and have a few designs lol

[ILuvtheMountains]

Thanks guys!
Sean- I will have two pieces of 2" square tube that will act like gussets, going from the very end of the hitch tube to behind the main piece. That is my brother's '64. He is trying to keep it from falling to ruin until he has money to work on it. Been in the family a long time. it was mine for a bit, still sad I sold it to him.
Robert- the hitch pin is only 2.5" from the front of the receiver tube. My main body piece is 3" wide so I could either do what I did or I could have mounted it flush but had to cut open big access points in the back of that body piece so I could actually get the hitch pin in (the pin would have been INSIDE the main body) I figured this route was easier overall. Plus the main body piece won't collect water like it would have with the other option.

[Java]

Looks great!! You weld purty. :thumb:

[ILuvtheMountains]

Looks great!! You weld purty. :thumb:
Thanks, but I can't take credit for many of the welds. I am the designer and material cutter. My brother does all the welds that will be integral to the strength of the bumper. Mine go in places where 1) nobody will see them 2) won't need to be relied upon for strength. I am getting better, and was once very good, but don't trust myself on projects like this just yet.
We are learning a lot about the ORDER in which to do things. In hindsight, the hitch should have been done before even mounting the main body to the frame plates and the sides should have been done then welded to the main body. Metal fabrication, I have learned, takes a lot of time planning so that you don't need to do anything (possibly everything) twice. And with a project like this, everything will take 4 times longer than you anticipate because you are designing as you go and overcoming obstacles as you discover them.

[Cr33p3r]

Travis you hit it right on the head with it taking longer than you think cause of the design as you go even after planning. I just finished redoing my front bumper and it took 2 days, well 2 three quater days but its all good.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Went to my buddy's machine shop to do some of the more precise cutting I needed to proceed on the bumper
Starting the swing arm
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/30/6ava9a3y.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/30/6a3eqype.jpg
Then cut my shackle mounts
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/30/4epyby2u.jpg
And added a little shout out to my brother's fab company
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/30/hytahahe.jpg

[Brucker]

Travis you hit it right on the head with it taking longer than you think cause of the design as you go even after planning. I just finished redoing my front bumper and it took 2 days, well 2 three quater days but its all good.

Amen! I don't know how many people I talk to each and every day that don't understand that "custom" can be, and usually is expensive. Huge difference in producing an item that is already designed, problem solved, jigged and tooled up for, than it would be to pull a one off out of thin air.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Got a little bit of time, pretty much finished up the hitch. Other than safety hook loops. Those will go on soon.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/07/a7udugu5.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/07/4uzu8e2a.jpg

[Cr33p3r]

That will be plenty strong.

[glacierpaul]

Cool Travis!

[ILuvtheMountains]

Got some more done last night.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_6042.JPG (http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/409406/cat/500)
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_6044.JPG (http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/409405/cat/500)

[ILuvtheMountains]

Looking more like a bumper after today. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/09/sy2a9e2e.jpg
My bro puts down some pretty welds
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/09/azeduhe5.jpg
Some unique supports for the butt welds
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/09/e5urade6.jpg
Small bit of plate work and lateral supports
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/09/e4aruda3.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/09/7azehy8u.jpg

[Cr33p3r]

Very nice, those supports should do the trick.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Those are my attempt at a fish plate and a gusset in one piece. Hopefully they work.

[The StRanger]

Very Nice !!

[ILuvtheMountains]

Been a while since I posted Here. The bumper isn't done but I find it hard to work on the vehicle when I can wheel it, so I don't, I wheel. Anyway I am going for another multi-day trip to wyo next Thursday and would like to have the spare carrier done. Not sure that's happening because of other obligations but we will try.
had to fix some warpage due to heat concentrating in one place (we got rushed and didn't stitch some stuff we should have) but it turned out great.
Now for the carrier. All I have left is 2" square tubing with 1/4" wall so it is heavy-duty and just plain heavy. So I decided to make it smaller (only one triangle where most other swing arms I see have two). Here is the preliminary frame just tacked together.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/17/e2eze9u6.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/17/eryhebu6.jpg
The spindle housing was tig welded to avoid heat warp
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/17/tumudu6u.jpg
Now I need to find some raw hdpe material for a strike plate/isolator/closure system. Not sure where to buy raw plastics like that, but maybe I can find a product that is made for something else that I can modify. For this I am thinking the material that a plastic cutting board would be made of.

[Hypoid]

Cutting board might work. I do have some scraps of 1/2" thick, HDPE.

[ILuvtheMountains]

What color are the scraps? Not trying to be picky but ideally would be black or red.

[Mr6dwg]

I feel it worthy to note, "I wish I could do work like that!". That is a skill that deserves complimenting whenever I see it.

[Brucker]

Colorado Plastics in Boulder should be able to help you out with UHMW.

[Cr33p3r]

I have some1/4" thick it's white and we can cut you off a piece if you want.

[glacierpaul]

Good job Travis! Looking good!

[ILuvtheMountains]

Tire carrier built
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/05/jejanuty.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/05/u8a4uhyb.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/05/ygeny6ug.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/05/8u8atyzy.jpg

[Chris]

Looks good Travis, better than mine which is effective but doesn't follow the rear body lines and looks like it's leaning away from the truck.. :thumb:

Thanks for the reminder to get mine "fixed!"

[ILuvtheMountains]

Finally got around to throwing a quick couple coats on the bumpers to hold off the rust over winter. Got way too busy to finish it but hope I can still do it sometime this winter.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/12/a0c044a3b7b95fa2f895a1874a5c35fe.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/12/187be3e8d58045f801e4233c72c5757a.jpg

[Patrolman]

Even unfinished, it looks good!

[Cr33p3r]

Looks better each time you post up pics on it, sometimes these projects take the back seat to other things in life as you've seen with my '57.

[EKXJ87]

Looks real nice with paint on it, Good Work!

[ILuvtheMountains]

Thanks gents! Hoping to get another big step towards finishing this weekend. If I had access to some black hdpe I might even finish...
Aaron, I think you said you might have some, is that still true?

[Brucker]

Thanks gents! Hoping to get another big step towards finishing this weekend. If I had access to some black hdpe I might even finish...
Aaron, I think you said you might have some, is that still true?

I do usually have some laying around but just recently used up the last of what I had. Not sure when I will actually have to order more. Try Colorado Plastics.

[ILuvtheMountains]

...finally getting some time this weekend to get some work done. Hopefully won't need more then a few hours to weld in filler plates and spindle. Geez this was supposed to be done MONTHS AGO.

[ILuvtheMountains]

Got a small step towards finishing the bumper. Burned on the filler plates! They will get trimmed for flexing clearance beneath the tail lights when we take the bumper off for the last time. Waiting on the latch and trying to find some 1/8"-1/4" HDPE sheeting for a good strike plate/rest for the arm when it is closed and latched. Anyone have ideas?
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/17/bd817ba296f2c80841f116648d5977ff.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/17/7c6974c8f916310cc77bc10a9bfb3ead.jpg

[ILuvtheMountains]

Got the filler plates in and swing arm and latch mounted. Need some open-end lug nuts and I can mount the tire. A bit of finish grinding then Making the appointment to get it bedlined on top, bring it home to rattle can paint on bottom and the rear bumper will finally be done!
Pics
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/15/c6e03dc6695344c07a6604c25b0a7189.jpg
My brother's pro tig work on the thin stuff
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/15/e439fcaec0dc45055dd0e34215114521.jpg
Detail of the spindle mount
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/15/7a72ea92f64553904f62397f71e99904.jpg
Last minute snag we hit last night was that the Handle for the latch hung down too far (I can't believe I never measured that out)! Anyway, we killed two birds with one stone when we decided to put a piece of 1/4" strap to span the gap between arm and bumper. The strap acts to keep the arm from swinging too far back and hitting the tailgate and is plenty solid for the new latch point.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/15/66ad2c6320b886121d19bf6ebedb74f3.jpg
In the other pics, note the angle steel cut and put on the bottom of the arms to shim up and take weight off of the spindle. There is one more behind that piece of strap.

[Jim]

Hi Travis!

1) Thread title is changed and the thread has been moved to "Build Threads" forum. You will note that the thread title, on posts 2 thru just prior to this will still show the old thread title.

2) One comment on your orientation of your spare tire latch - the swing of the latch is in the same orientation (pivot point) as your spare tire carrier. I don't see a locking pin option for that latch. If you give your spare tire carrier a firm tug rearward, I can see the latch rotating over its center and opening up. The latch will still, originally be connected to the swing out - but a bump or jostle (moving down the road) will have them separating. Give the swing out a sharp tug and see if it gives (I could be wrong).

[ILuvtheMountains]

It has a lock on it, you can barely see it in the spindle mount photo. I was wondering the same thing is you when I was forced to mount it like that, but after doing some testing I think it will work fine.
by the way, line X of Northern Colorado took it today and said that they will have it back to me on Wednesday! Looks like we can take our first family camping trip this weekend!

[The StRanger]

Very nice !!

[Chris]

Looks like it'll work well!


Looks like we can take our first family camping trip this weekend!

Good to hear, have a good time!

[ILuvtheMountains]

Done. 4/28/14-5/17/15
384days
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/43ee708db2579f50431a43f564d10422.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/3953a67700f690f15d034a91a4b9abd0.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/95e7f689fd003cf8ed4cc8e4ff27141d.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/df1159d59d2df2dd9739ab1aa88d3697.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/c1b3f81ab46ff642fcdc405861dc92dc.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/4d3fc6f5071dfecc5737a2b670aa3501.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/17/ce42d0b0c60f71d7e93dac84ae1c7ad7.jpg

[xaza]

looks sweet!

[ILuvtheMountains]

looks sweet!
Thanks Cliff!

[Jim]

Yep - looks purty...

Now to get it dirty this weekend!

[ILuvtheMountains]

Yep!:cheers::2thumbup:

[ILuvtheMountains]

33s aren't huge tires, but it is amazing how much more bed space I have now that the spare is out of there!

[EKXJ87]

Very nice job, I really like the one off custom work :thumb:

[ILuvtheMountains]

Very nice job, I really like the one off custom work :thumb:
Thanks! It is amazing how fast I know I could do another now that the first one is done, but now I don't need one, lol. That is the funny thing about one-offs. But I do love having a bumper that NO ONE else has or will have.

[Java]

that looks great!! I like the bedliner a lot, it really ties it all together. :thumb:

[ILuvtheMountains]

One final update- after a weekend of wheeling on a rocky trail, the bumper held up great! We never got torque specs on the castle nut for the spindle so we just tightened it by feel and even with the off-camber angles and extra weight (a trasharoo filled with firewood strapped to the tire) it swings smoothly. I should have taken pics with it in action, but I can do that next time! Thanks for reading and following along on this!

[SynergyXJ]

Awesome, good looking bumper! I dig the side wrap around.

Why do you have shaft collars on the studs for the spare tire? Just needed a bit more space? (sorry if I missed an answer to that, I looked around for an explanation).

[ILuvtheMountains]

Yep, they were a cheap form of wheel spacer that I could use to get the tire off of the swing arm. I looked around CL for a junk/spare spaced and had no luck, a trip through a hardware store gave me the temporary solution