4.0 Rear Main Seal & Valve Cover Gasket

[Java]

Getting ready to do this, and the valve cover gasket while I'm at it. Best write up I've found:

http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811

and the valve cover:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/valve-cover-gasket-replacement-lots-pics-1121533/

hope that's useful to someone!

[otisdog]

Come do my Rear Main Seal while you are at it please.
Jim

[The StRanger]

Easy as pie.... Once the pan is off its all right there !!

[The StRanger]

My best advise, Lift it from the frame and let the front axle droop..
It will make it easier to get the pan out..

[Java]

its not too bad a job IME, I've only done it on a 258 but it seems to be about the same on the 4.0. I ordered two RMS kits, last time I screwed one up and my Jeep was my daily driver so I ended up on the bike ride of shame to the autoparts store.

[glacierpaul]

"bike ride of shame to the auto parts store.":lmao: That is a funny line right there Paul. X2 on what Jim said.

[The StRanger]

"bike ride of shame to the auto parts store.":lmao: That is a funny line right there Paul. X2 on what Jim said.


Yup. Thats Phuunie right there !!!

[Java]

Got started last night, Jeeps in the air and the oil is draining. I'm wondering if there is a point to replacing the oil pump while I'm in there. It's working fine, dont' want to waste money, but I am right there... do the 4.0 oil pumps fail often? Any thoughts?

Also, I can't remember who, but someone wanted to do the rear main seal along with me for the experience. It's possible I'm on the wrong forum, I can't find the thread I'm thinking of, but if anyone here wanted to, PM me.

[Java]

so a rebuild kit for the oil pump is $22.00, Melling kit K-81A, and looks easy as can be, so I'm ordering it. The web has different ideas about priming it, from not at all to pulling the driver and buying a tool. My engine isn't new or dry so I don't need to prime the block, just the pump. ThHas anyone ever primed the oil pump on a 4.0 before installation? Pack it with vasoline? It looks self-priming to me, but I don't want to be surprised. Thanks!!

[The StRanger]

It's possible I'm on the wrong forum,

?? Other forums ??

[Hypoid]

ThHas anyone ever primed the oil pump on a 4.0 before installation? Pack it with vasoline? It looks self-priming to me, but I don't want to be surprised. Thanks!!When I replaced the oil pump in my current engine, I pulled the distributor and put a drill on the oil pump drive. I was surprised at how long it took to get oil through the pump, filter, and oiling system. Let me know if you need to borrow that drill...

[The StRanger]

so a rebuild kit for the oil pump is $22.00, Melling kit K-81A, and looks easy as can be, so I'm ordering it. The web has different ideas about priming it, from not at all to pulling the driver and buying a tool. My engine isn't new or dry so I don't need to prime the block, just the pump. ThHas anyone ever primed the oil pump on a 4.0 before installation? Pack it with vasoline? It looks self-priming to me, but I don't want to be surprised. Thanks!!

Oh HE!! yes prime the system..... It only takes seconds to fry the bearings ..

[Java]

there is so much info out there. Mine doesn't have a distributor, it's a pump driver that looks like one and pulling it is a minor PITA that may not be necessary. If I can't get a clear answer otherwise I'll do that, and I have a piece of metal that would make a good driver, but I'm not sure I have to. The Haynes manual just says swap it and run it, no priming at all. From where it sits above / in the pan it looks like it would prime itself if the pan was filled. Out of all the junk online I found this http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/replacing-oil-pump-21919/ an opinion I'd take seriously, mentions Vaseline but not priming. I don't see how it would be different than the draining / refilling during an oil change if the pump itself was vasolined or pre-primed. IDK...

[xaza]

To prime it you can pull your fuel pump relay and crank the engine. It is a good idea to prime it since it does only take a few seconds.

[Java]

In the interest of making things more difficult than they need to be I'm also going to give my starter some love while it's out. I found a good video on cleaning it out, and autozone carries a line of brushes http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Duralast-Brush-set/_/N-25t8?itemIdentifier=860451_0_0_. It's working well, but it's been underwater / mud / sand so I'm sure cleaning it out won't hurt.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EHQJDhxZc0

[Hypoid]

I did a timing set on a '71 Cherokee, goofy thing had the oil pump built into the timing cover. The manual for that engine said to pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly. I also shorted the coil wire from the cap and cranked the engine until I had oil pressure on the gauge. It took a few minutes of cranking to see oil pressure.

When I set the junkyard 4.0 in my Cherokee, it had a new oil pump. Since the part was new, and under warranty, I chose to not disturb the cover bolts. When it was time to fire the engine the first time, I did remove the distributor and pressurize the oiling system with my 1/2 HP drill. I did not time how long it took to feel the drill load up, but I was glad I went that route before I stopped pumping with the drill.

I have re-timed enough camshafts, cam sensors, and distributors to consider the procedure good practice. When I had to do the operation in a parking lot, in the rain, it was second nature. :2c:

[Java]

I will for sure prime it, and I like Cliff's idea about pulling the fuel pump relay. If it doesn't pressure up immediately I'll stop and do the drill method, I don't want to damage anything.

[otisdog]

Better safe than sorry.
Jim

[Java]

while I'm waiting for parts I took apart and cleaned out my starter yesterday. one of the easiest things I've ever done, and what a difference, it was amazing how much dirt, sand and grease came out. I bench tested it before and after and it was much faster and quieter after cleaning it out. It was so simple I won't bother with a write up, but here's one: http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=1574 and another http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoStarterClean.htm

I got the cleaner at Autozone for $4.50, used some grease and wd40 as well. I'm going to add this job to my spring prep from now on.

[Java]

Warn oil pan skid plate, worth it's weight in gold. I haven't had it off since I put it on maybe 4 years ago, have to pull it to do the RMS. It was bent in three places, I had to turn it upside down on the garage floor and straighten it with a sledge hammer, and you can see from the primer how many scrapes it had down to bare metal. Not a scratch on my drivetrain. :thumb:

[Java]

r/r the valve cover. painted it too while it was out. more time cleaning than anything else, it's a pretty easy job. It was leaking everywhere it could, so I replaced both PCV grommets as well as the gasket. If you have a 4.0 you can buy atleast one of the PCV grommets from the HELP! rack at most autoparts stores, Dorman 2321-07012802. If you have a 2005-2006 the rear one is Chrysler 53013743AB, as I found out the hard way. :) I did spark plugs and a new oil filter while I was in the area, and replaced the 1/2" PCV hose.

[Java]

busy week, still breaking down and cleaning stuff. Cleaning has been the biggest part of all of this. The oil pan has 3 different types of bolts / studs in different holes, after the 3rd one came out I realized future Paul was going to **** this up, so I idiot-proofed myself with the gasket, the box it came in and a screwdriver. hth some other idiot! :)

[glacierpaul]

"future Paul was going to **** this up" :lmao: That would make a good t-shirt for us Pauls :). That is how I do any tear downs of anything, lots of pics are good to for some stuff, like wiring. Way to get after it Paul!

[The StRanger]

Lookin good !!

[Java]

I take a lot of pics of stuff too, Paul, and I usually set up the camera on a tripod and take close up video when I take stuff apart. Cuts down on the "wtf did I do?" moments. :)

So on step 14 in this write up of the rear main seal http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811 he uses a LOT more RTV than was on the pan when I took it out. I remember on my 258 it didn't use that much either, and that had a gasket that was in 3 pieces. My pan has four spots of it, about 1/2" long, but this guy is all over the top and bottom of the seal front and rear. I like it, especially based on results, mine is leaking all around and the bolts only get torqued to 12 lbs... so I'm thinking of doing the whole thing with a light coat top and bottom. I know it's overkill, but I like overkill as long as it doesn't hurt anything. I can't think of a downside, except that I may waste some of my own time and RTV. Any reason it would have a negative effect? Thanks!!

[xaza]

If you get too much it will squeeze out inside and break away eventually contaminating the oil and possibly create a blockage.

[Hypoid]

If you get too much it will squeeze out inside and break away eventually contaminating the oil and possibly create a blockage.It will also let the gasket slide around, then you have no seal in place. Less is more in this area.

[Java]

some progress this weekend. here's the rebuilt oil pump, there are 5 working parts and a gasket, everything only goes in one way and two of them fall out for you when you open it. it took 5 minutes to rebuild it. Beyond easy.

https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t31.0-8/10386905_10203771404309021_6928186899771226754_o.j pg

Here's the bearing cap, it seems it was leaking around the sides of the cap, not the seal. The RMS actually looked fine, I'm thinking my problem was more with the oil pan and valve cover. I found a nice dent on the pan that may have shifted it when it happened, IDK for sure.

https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t31.0-8/1493571_10203771404469025_701119578700210587_o.jpg

Cleaned, new seal.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31.0-8/10333273_10203771411989213_6049659494716272309_o.j pg

top half is in there, you can see the ends of it.

https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t31.0-8/10285717_10203771413469250_8852952289845686201_o.j pg

https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/t31.0-8/10333797_10203771414149267_3877006697856801002_o.j pg

"less is more" :)

https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t31.0-8/52580_10203771412789233_5666438679817978794_o.jpg

back in, just need to reconnect the exhaust. I'm leaving the skid plate off until Im sure I didn't make a mistake (pretty sure I didn't) and I'm draining / refilling the transmission while it's off. tcase too.

https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t31.0-8/10265396_10203771413869260_8236505298846180379_o.j pg

[Java]

Finally wrapped it up today. Got the exhaust clamped where I cut it, I think I'm going to pick up an extra one of these clamps for my parts bag.

https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t31.0-8/10255790_10203775676375820_5047899021938944134_o.j pg

Pulled the fuel pump relay and cranked it over a bit, thanks Cliff!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31.0-8/1979310_10203775677295843_35182257556047408_o.jpg

Did this too, it came in the box with the pump parts. I didn't submerge it, I filled it from the top and spun it. Had to be very careful not to spill it onto the gasket surface when I put it in.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t31.0-8/10273107_10203775676815831_2323463847672437487_o.j pg

Pressure came up right away. :thumb:

https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t31.0-8/1980303_10203775675855807_1808037167893876626_o.jp g

[The StRanger]

Vey nice.. Where did ya get the clamp from ??

[Java]

IIRC it was Hypoid who recommended the parts store, and I got it at O'Rileys for under $15.00. :thumb: It feels solid, zero play.

[The StRanger]

Ill check them tomorrow. I could use a few !!

[xaza]

nice job