Java
May 7th, 2014, 09:51 AM
Last year I copied text and pics from jeeptubes.com from a page on how to build your own dashboard / cage tie in bars. The advantage that I'm going for is being able to fold down the windshield without taking the side bars off, and I'd like to make a low profile rack / bikini top while I'm at it. the 1 3/4 angle isn't stocked at MS so I have to order it, and figure out tubes to the stock tubes and a cross member or two. I'm leaning towards clamping collars like rockhard4x4 uses to attach to the OEM bars. If anyone else wants to make them and wants to get in on the metal order let me know.
The pics from jeeptubes disappeared with the site, but here's the text:
Building trail cage dash tie in brackets
There are a number of options available when installing a front cage in a TJ but the one we’re going to focus on here, is the dash mounted bracket. The beauty of this method is there is no interference with any interior components and it hides quite nicely between the door and the dash making it virtually invisible. Since it has been pretty well established that the cowl section of most vehicles is the sturdiest part of the entire body structure, due to the intersection of the cowl, dash, floor, and external body panels, and since there are a number of cage kits already on the market utilizing this method, it is with confidence that we show how to make some inexpensive cage mounting brackets for your TJ. Sorry we do not offer these for sale but fabricating them should be easy enough with basic tools and skills.
To start you’ll need some 1.75” x .188” (1 3/4 ” x 1 3/4” x 3/16”) angle iron about 6’ long (if you’re planning on going all the way to the floor) or about 3’ if you’re just stopping at the bottom of the dash. Optional, but highly recommended, is some 1.5” x .120” (1 ½” x 1/8”) flatbar to use as a backing plate for your bracket. Some 2” x 3/16” flatbar will be needed as a landing pad for your side tubes as well. You’ll also need 6 - 3/8” x 1 1/2” grade 8 button head bolts with lock nuts to replace the factory screws that mount the dash to the body.
For the dash brackets you will want to cut two pieces of the angle iron to 17" in length (longer if you want them to extend to the floor). Using cardboard, cut out a template with the location of the mounting holes and the door pin switch for transfer to the angle iron.
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After transferring the markings on your template to the angle, drill out the holes for the dash bolts, trim screws and the door pin switch.
Using a bench or hand grinder round off the corner of the angle iron on the back side so as to achieve a better fit with the dash and for proper door clearance.
Also note how the top edge of the brackets is cut in and tapered toward the top to fit around the window frame.
(http://www.jeeptubes.com/images/CageTubes/103_1706.JPG)
Using 3/16 or 1/4 plate fashion a landing plate which is centered over the angle iron and will be the location where your side tube will meet the dash bracket. The exact location and dimensions of this plate can vary depending on where your side tubes hit. You should mount your new dash brackets to the dash and use their location as the guide as to where you will need to trim the side tubes to meet them.
[URL="http://www.jeeptubes.com/images/CageTubes/103_1710.JPG"]
We like to add a small triangle to the front for a little added strength and to give the brackets a more finished and professional look.
The pics from jeeptubes disappeared with the site, but here's the text:
Building trail cage dash tie in brackets
There are a number of options available when installing a front cage in a TJ but the one we’re going to focus on here, is the dash mounted bracket. The beauty of this method is there is no interference with any interior components and it hides quite nicely between the door and the dash making it virtually invisible. Since it has been pretty well established that the cowl section of most vehicles is the sturdiest part of the entire body structure, due to the intersection of the cowl, dash, floor, and external body panels, and since there are a number of cage kits already on the market utilizing this method, it is with confidence that we show how to make some inexpensive cage mounting brackets for your TJ. Sorry we do not offer these for sale but fabricating them should be easy enough with basic tools and skills.
To start you’ll need some 1.75” x .188” (1 3/4 ” x 1 3/4” x 3/16”) angle iron about 6’ long (if you’re planning on going all the way to the floor) or about 3’ if you’re just stopping at the bottom of the dash. Optional, but highly recommended, is some 1.5” x .120” (1 ½” x 1/8”) flatbar to use as a backing plate for your bracket. Some 2” x 3/16” flatbar will be needed as a landing pad for your side tubes as well. You’ll also need 6 - 3/8” x 1 1/2” grade 8 button head bolts with lock nuts to replace the factory screws that mount the dash to the body.
For the dash brackets you will want to cut two pieces of the angle iron to 17" in length (longer if you want them to extend to the floor). Using cardboard, cut out a template with the location of the mounting holes and the door pin switch for transfer to the angle iron.
[/URL]
After transferring the markings on your template to the angle, drill out the holes for the dash bolts, trim screws and the door pin switch.
Using a bench or hand grinder round off the corner of the angle iron on the back side so as to achieve a better fit with the dash and for proper door clearance.
Also note how the top edge of the brackets is cut in and tapered toward the top to fit around the window frame.
(http://www.jeeptubes.com/images/CageTubes/103_1706.JPG)
Using 3/16 or 1/4 plate fashion a landing plate which is centered over the angle iron and will be the location where your side tube will meet the dash bracket. The exact location and dimensions of this plate can vary depending on where your side tubes hit. You should mount your new dash brackets to the dash and use their location as the guide as to where you will need to trim the side tubes to meet them.
[URL="http://www.jeeptubes.com/images/CageTubes/103_1710.JPG"]
We like to add a small triangle to the front for a little added strength and to give the brackets a more finished and professional look.