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94ToyBear
October 19th, 2014, 05:20 PM
Got a question about leaf spings on my 94 yota pick up SAS.
Plan was to use the rear stock springs up front (48ish length) but went with a 5.3ls and heavy tranny/t case combo.
So I needed a heavier spring and used a set of rear stock 2010 taco main spring (59 inch) with my 94 stocks and stock yj.
The issue im having now is axle location. The original plan was to use to 94 stocks to move to axle more forward (I forget how much I think it was 3 inches).......but unlike the 94s the 2010 are Not off set and will not move the axle forward. ..this is going to be a problem withthe body wheel well.

Anyone know of a main sping that sits off set around 59 inches long and around 2 1/4 wide.

Other question I have is, will an off set spring limit articulation? Seems like it would be limited to the short side of the spring
would a centered set spring articulate more ? ..

Sorry for any typos I wrote this from my crappy phone.

redneck23ms
October 19th, 2014, 05:47 PM
full size dodge truck leafs are 60" with a 4" offset. f150 leafs are 58" with a 7" offset. the offset won't limit flex much, what little it will limit it is made up for by having longer leafs. but a couple issues you will run into especially with it being spring over is axle wrap. the longer softer leafs will really wrap. another issue will be pulling the driveshaft apart. even some of the "long travel" shafts won't be enough if you have the shackle end of the spring to the rear and fixed end in the front. a few solutions would be swith to shorter leafs for the front. or the cheapest/easiest way would be to redrill the pin hole in your current mains. drilling spring steel sucks but it can be done.

94ToyBear
October 19th, 2014, 06:25 PM
Wel that summed up all my questions ! Thank you ! Ill look in to the f150's. An inch shorter will actually be good for shackle angle and 7 inches forward would be wonderful considering off set spings dont mess with the flex much and if it felx less that should help with axle wrap.
I do plan on using petes tip and using the back half of the over load springs to reduce wrap.
What years should I be looking for ?
I considered drilling but didnt want to have a weak point in the main spring If there were better ooptions.

redneck23ms
October 19th, 2014, 08:43 PM
97-03 f150 and most f250s should be the ones you want. 80-96 had 56" leafs

94ToyBear
October 19th, 2014, 09:33 PM
Do you happen to know what off set the 80-96 are if any ?

Haku
October 19th, 2014, 10:19 PM
For what its worth, you can add springs to the stock RUF pack to raise the spring rate too. If you already have a set of springs and need more, I have a bunch of loose springs just for that if you want them.

Additionally, Davez Offroad and Trail Gear both have "HD" springs for those heavier rigs too.

Part of me says you should just forgo leafs and go straight to coil springs too, but you can't beat the simplicity of a leaf spring and they perform well enough for 90% of what people need from an offroader. At least on the rear end, I would recommend a traction bar. I get pretty massive axle wrap on the rear of my crawler, which is one of the primary reasons why I'm going with a 4 link and coilovers very soon.

94ToyBear
October 19th, 2014, 11:15 PM
RUF pack ends have been chopped off. Id love to go coil overs I just cant right now. Cant afford it and have no time to do so. I will eventually.

Haku
October 20th, 2014, 03:32 AM
well....I didn't say Coilovers even though that is the ideal way. You can do coils and shocks seperately for cheaper then buying coils. Takeoff coils are pretty easy to find, and fabbing/buying coil buckets isn't too hard or expensive.

I can't say figuring out a Triangulated 3 link with panhard bar is necessarily easy to figure out, but its not rocket science and you can do it cheap by using poly bushings on one end of the links (a pair of heims is $120 from Ruffstuff). I admit that it takes more work to do the links, but at the same time its less work you have to undo when you go with links eventually.

I'm giving this more as food for thought rather then saying its the only way to go.

94ToyBear
October 20th, 2014, 06:24 AM
Totally miss read what you put down the first time. Sorry.
But yeah cheeper/est and durable is the only way ovcan go now.
Did you have a 3 link in front of yours ? I cant remember what you had but I think your in the middle of changing over too.

redneck23ms
October 20th, 2014, 04:08 PM
the 80-96 f150 leafs have alot of offset as well. around 6"

Haku
October 20th, 2014, 04:34 PM
Totally miss read what you put down the first time. Sorry.
But yeah cheeper/est and durable is the only way ovcan go now.
Did you have a 3 link in front of yours ? I cant remember what you had but I think your in the middle of changing over too.

I'm running a dual triangulated 4 link on the front of mine. If you want to drive it on the road still I wouldn't recommend a 4 link, and would go with the 3 link plus panhard since it will still work with a traditional drag link and tie rod type setup. You get massive bump steer with 4 link, so you have to go Full Hydro (or some less used push pull type systems).

Its probably more then take off leafs and a some tube and sheet metal to make a spring hanger and shackles, but I think you could manage links for $700-1000 using an existing kit from Ruffstuff or similar and quite a bit less if you make some or all of the brackets yourself. That is just the suspension stuff and doesn't include the axle or steering components, but since that is the same stuff with leaf or coils/links then it doesn't come into play.

Like I said, food for thought.

88Toy
October 26th, 2014, 09:45 AM
Adam, The links are definitely your best option. That way, I'll have a pattern to copy.......