Cherokee rear axle stretch

[xaza]

Looking into stretching my rear axle back about 2 inches. I believe what I will need to address is the trimming the rear fender back (maybe not though) and the moving of the gas tank if required. Anybody here have experience with this? I met with Aaron Brucker and he will be taking care of the shock relocation and welding the perches to the axle tube. He will also be modifying the fenders to match (and something unrelated to this :jiggy:) I do have a gas tank skid that would need to be modified. I was looking and it looks like I have a ton of room to spare, but it also is not flexed or even loaded down.

[Hypoid]

I have never done the wheelbase stretch, but I don't remember anyone having to move the tank when they did.

[gm4x4lover]

Why the back and not the front? What leaf springs are you going to run?

[xaza]

Same leaf springs, I picked up some Ruff Stuff 2+ Perch kits. I have had the thought rattling around for a while but another upcoming project is requiring things to be in position.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/2PLUS.html

[EKXJ87]

I've seen this kit Cliff looks fairly straight forward looking forward to the write up/photos "hint" "hint" .

[gm4x4lover]

Looks pretty simple. Did you look at the zero rate block from ord?

[xaza]

I did but I liked the Ruffstuff because it gives me more adjustability to get it dialed in where I want it. It looks like the people needing to move gas tank are pushing the axle back quite a bit more than me. Sent email to Ruffstuff to find out what will need to be done

[gm4x4lover]

I never really thought about moving the rear axle on any of mine. It would be interesting to see if you think it makes a difference when it's done.

[dieseldoc]

hmm....what wheel base are you after? the cherokee is already long. the right range is 100-104" the cherokee is already 101.4"

[xaza]

I am looking for 1 to 2 inches back to give more clearance for tires. I am still rubbing a little bit but there is not really any more room to massage out of the front of the fender. As an update, it looks like for 1 to 2 inches I should be fine without having to modify the gas tank. I measured and with my current setup I have 4 inches clearance between diff and gas tank on flat level surface. Ideally I want to go back 2" but can go 1, 2 or 3 with perches. I will try and post up updates as this progresses but I will not be doing the work myself. I am hoping that updates can be posted up on build thread here for me but that can be time consuming.

[dieseldoc]

Perches are easy....i am guessing you are getting them with the holes drilled for options.
i have seem guys weld a 1/2" think plate on top of the spring perch and re drill.....
kinda redneck but it worked well. And took up some of the sag of warn out springs.

[Atl-atl]

I had TNT Customs u-bolt eliminators on a past XJ. I ran them in the 1" longer wheelbase setting and I didn't have to modify anything. One thing to consider that you haven't mentioned is rear driveshaft length. If you are going so far as to have Brucker do some fab for you, you might as well make up a ******* leaf pack and run some kind of shackle relocation brackets so you can use a flatter leaf pack and get a lot more droop. The droop alone will solve most of your rubbing issues.


hmm....what wheel base are you after? the cherokee is already long. the right range is 100-104" the cherokee is already 101.4"
The right range for what? This depends greatly on tire size. If you talk to the really hardcore offroad/crawler guys they run 114-120" wheelbase. Stock JK Unlimited's are 116" and guys push those axles out regularly.

[dieseldoc]

I had TNT Customs u-bolt eliminators on a past XJ. I ran them in the 1" longer wheelbase setting and I didn't have to modify anything. One thing to consider that you haven't mentioned is rear driveshaft length. If you are going so far as to have Brucker do some fab for you, you might as well make up a ******* leaf pack and run some kind of shackle relocation brackets so you can use a flatter leaf pack and get a lot more droop. The droop alone will solve most of your rubbing issues.


The right range for what? This depends greatly on tire size. If you talk to the really hardcore offroad/crawler guys they run 114-120" wheelbase. Stock JK Unlimited's are 116" and guys push those axles out regularly.
the hard core guys running 38+ tires will be in that 114+ wb.
the rest of us that have real world budgets and drive our stuff to the trails are more likely to be 100-105 range. If you look at the class rules for W.E.roc and cal-rocs the limits are 110 and under unless it was a long wheel base from the factory.
shannon camboll has won KOH on a 106" each year he has won/run. Mike and Troy Baily from W.E.roc are running 102". Jen an Todd Little are 100" on there cantilivered moon buggy with the subaru engine mounted to the rear axle.
All the long wheel base guys in souther Utah have to take way ridiculous lines to get around stuff.

[Rick]

All the long wheel base guys in souther Utah have to take way ridiculous lines to get around stuff. lol how about 148" :D

[dieseldoc]

You would hate some of the trails they run....

[Rick]

I'm sure

[xaza]

One thing to consider that you haven't mentioned is rear driveshaft length. If you are going so far as to have Brucker do some fab for you, you might as well make up a ******* leaf pack and run some kind of shackle relocation brackets so you can use a flatter leaf pack and get a lot more droop. The droop alone will solve most of your rubbing issues.
Drive shaft is not an issue. Had to have mine shortened by Bill earlier this year so I am hoping to slap a stock one in to get by until I can afford to do more. I will be either doing a SYE or more likely a t-case doubler. I will be having Bill make me one of his shafts when I decide. My leaf springs are less than a year old and like new so there is no need to dive into all that extra work. I don't see how a flatter leaf spring is going to help. If I set up a pack that is the same height but doesn't flex up as well it is going to ride like garbage and be stiff. Every custom built pack I have ever seen for these light of trucks turns out terrible, may as well put wooden tires on em. I like to flex my truck and don't want to take away any of the flex I get out of my leaf springs (front was a little different). Now if after the lift settles and I start to rub again, I may add a leaf or 2 from old ones. I don't think I will have any issues once axle is moved back. I had read (though can't remember where) ideal wheel base for rocks is 104-109. I am looking to get close to the lowest number. What concerns me is the drop off ledges and rocks that I will be seeing in Moab (not to mention some bucket list CO trails). I am confident my bumper is solid enough to handle hitting but there is a bit of fender to hit before bumper where axle sits now. And the most important reason to move axle back is to make room for a t-case doubler, though I am not positive on that yet. The install of the cage has required me to have axle where it is going to be unless I want to open a whole new can of worms that would almost guarantee I wouldn't do doubler.

[MultiScuf]

t-case doubler. Which way are you going to with your doubler?

[dieseldoc]

Sothe other thing none of us has talked about is the break over angle. At 104-109" wheel base the belly will need be 22-24" to clear rock etc.
the 100-104 you can get away with 19" and up!
Break over is huge....helps keep the center of gravity low as well.

[xaza]

Which way are you going to with your doubler?
:confused: Not sure, still weighing the options. I like the idea of doing a 231/231 for the simple fact that I have 2 of them. Would let me play with it a bit and see if the gears are too low but likely to break. I would expect this project to still be at least a year out.

[redneck23ms]

there really is no ideal wheelbase that is good for everything. some obstacles a 110" wheelbase will walk it where 108 will struggle. steep climbs, longer wheelbase is better but you do risk getting belly hung on breakovers. then other trails a 110" wheelbase may struggle where 100" will walk it. that said when i get done with my next stage of my build it will be in the 108-110" range and on 37's

[Dutch]

Depends on the terrain and style of wheeling you'll be doing the most of. I personally feel that for CO trails 100-110" is a very good range depending on belly clearance. The 116" my JKU sits at is too long, especially when combined with the poor break over angle from such a low slung frame and the damn fuel tank that runs along and below it. The factory XJ WB works pretty damn well around here.

[dieseldoc]

I have to agree here. The 100-110" seams to work the best on just about any terrain.
The biggest problem being the belly pans on most rigs.
Mine is a shovel. Break over is where most guys go ahead and flat pan things.

[xaza]

Figured I would bring back to life an old thread to update. Axle is set at 2" back, am able to go 3" without diff hitting gas tank. Turning radius has been affected a little but not too bad. I did end up getting SYE done and custom drive shaft from Bill's Englewood Drive Shaft. No more rubbing of the rear tires on the fender. Break over angle has not been effected enough to notice a difference between mine and Wylie's trucks. Departure angle is an improvement, seems to land on bumper now. Shock mounts needed to be relocated up on the axle more eliminating the hang up on rocks hooks. I was concerned about axle wrap but have had no issues with that. I would have to say it was a very successful modification that I would recommend to anyone looking for more tire clearance for rear tires but not wanting more lift.

[dieseldoc]

Nice update.
Good to hear it's working nice.