'97 Jeep TJ overhaul

[Brucker]

Another build begins. We rescued this well used TJ knowing full well it needed some TLC before being trail worthy. It had been wheeled hard, rolled hard, and quite frankly, lacked some quality in the craftsmanship in some areas. It did however have some great components to offer and still offered some potential.

The Jeep's specs include 4.0L, 5 speed, NP231 with the TerraLow 4:1 gearing and SYE, full width axles out of an F250 that offer 5.38's and lockers. An extended wheelbase of 106" with radius arms and Sway-a-way air shocks in the front and a 4 link and coils in the rear. 37" Maxxis Creepy Crawlers on steel beadlocks. Full cage, Mastercraft seats, RJS lap belts, bikini top, wind jammer, and a 8000 lbs winch. It has had a ton of custom work done to it. Some of it better than others.

Our plan is to start out small and work our way going through the jeep from one end to the other. Only fixing, replacing, and reworking the things needing attention.

Here are a few "before" shots of it. Some of the previous owner out playing in it, and some of it on the trailer shortly after purchase.

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[Brucker]

We start by changing all the fluids from front to back. Then check and grease all joints. Both front axle joints need to be replaced, and while torn apart, we decided to install some chromoly shafts and joints. This will allow for a stronger, more reliable, front end.

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We also started a list of items needing attention. First and foremost, it will need a new gauge cluster. It will also need the fuel cell relocated for safety and to provide better overall storage options. The hood will need to be replaced as it is too hammered to fix. The steel metal all over will need attention and we want to redo the half cab work as it is not up to par. We will also need to add a charcoal canister back into the mix to help this pass emission requirements. Then we will need to rework the front bumper and stinger and work in some fenders.

This may seem like a fairly large list, and it is. But am having a feeling it will continue to grow.

[Beefy]

Sweet rig!

[Brucker]

Sweet rig!

Thanks, but you know this is all "before" photos, right?

[Brucker]

Here's where the project gets interesting. All it took was a less than 5 minute test drive to multiply the to do list tenfold. But you can't win them all, right?

During a short test drive, the TJ decided to set itself on fire. Yes, you read that correctly, set itself on fire. Best we can figure at this point, is some faulty wiring lead to a small electrical fire within the under dash wiring harness. Doesn't seem to have affected much more than just the harness itself. But it will take us a little bit to investigate further. The Poison Spider cage was welded into position, making removing the dash impossible without cutting it or the cage out of the vehicle. Here is the best photo I could find. The base plate is fully welded and bolted into place.

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We chose to cut the front A pillar legs out of the cage and planned on just having to redo the front tube work. But we once again hit another road block. First cut into the front tube sent water gushing out from it. This indicates not only one or more improper welds, but poses a serious structural integrity issue depending on the amount of rust and corrosion that has already taken place. So it looks like the TJ will be getting a new under dash wiring harness and a new cage as well.

Here are some photos of the tube work getting removed.

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[Brucker]

With the majority of the cage removed, you can now easily see the sub par half cab or back halving work that will need to be reworked. Here are some photos of the missing sheet metal and exposed fuel cell (factory tank):

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Looks like we have some work ahead of us...

[Beefy]

Thanks, but you know this is all "before" photos, right?

Yes, and it's a sweet rig. I've seen your work and I'm excited to see the end result.

[Brucker]

Yes, and it's a sweet rig. I've seen your work and I'm excited to see the end result.

Thanks for the kind words. Lol, Now I just hope it lives up to your expectations once I complete it.

[Brucker]

While waiting on a new wiring harness to arrive we turn our attention to the rough body. Although knowing that this will never win any beauty contests, we certainly believe we can help it out a little bit at least. You will notice from the photos that the hood is trashed and that there isn't really a straight panel left.

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We already ordered and received a new hood, but will wait to install till it is one of the last items on the list. So we start working on the rest of the body panels. Since the armor is already permanently attached to the body in places, we decided to pull as much of the dents out flush with the armor as best as we could. Then finished up welding the body to the armor, This turns the body, frame, and tube work all one piece for more rigidity and strength.

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Body still isn't anywhere near straight, but now the doors can actually open and shut easy, imagine that!

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[Patrolman]

Nice work! Isn't it funny how a relatively minor project can grow much bigger in no time?!

[newracer]

Looks great so far!

[Brucker]

We all know that fitting anyone of any size, or even a dog, into the back of a TJ can be a challenging feat when having to carry any gear as well. So we are going to keep this a dedicated 2 seater like the original owner did. And now that the outer skins are welding in place we can start working on fabricating a true half cab. We start by cleaning the area up and cutting out any materials still in our way.

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Then cut, cap, and smooth a length of rectangular tubing. Welding it across the vehicle, connecting both sides together.

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Then cut two more pieces of the rectangular tubing and welded them into position between the first piece and the frame rails while also tying into the existing bed structure.

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And then add a length of angle iron across the bottom of the floor between the two new rectangular uprights.

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[Brucker]

This new structure creates a much simpler and cleaner way to fill in the missing body. Now we just need to make 5 different small, uncomplicated sheet metal panels. The first two panels we fabricate are the small side panels between the tubing.

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Then fabricate and install the next two side panels to start creating the new back wall of the half cab.

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The last panel is the center one which happens to span the largest area. Because of this we form a series of rolled beads into the sheet metal. This adds rigidity and strength, as well as change the resonance of the piece. Once the panel is fully formed we weld it into position creating the bottom of a true, fully enclosed, half cab. And yes, the seats still get a full range of motion, front to back, for even the tallest of drivers.

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[Patrolman]

Are you making a 1/2 cab or buying one? Just curious.

[Rick]

so what is a ballpark guess on the sale of this????? Just curious(interested)

[Hypoid]

Welcome to the world of rail car repair. Although, we use hammers more than clamps. :)

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[Brucker]

Are you making a 1/2 cab or buying one? Just curious.

I am assuming you are referring to the top half of the half cab. If so, I will be making a custom soft top for it. Adapting a production hard top, either out of steel, aluminum, or fiberglass would be too costly and time consuming for me.

[Brucker]

so what is a ballpark guess on the sale of this????? Just curious(interested)

Quite honestly, I know I won't get the majority of my money or time back out of it. Time wise, whenever someone wants it more than me. Cost wise, as much as I can get but really depends on what all gets accomplished. If the suspension and axles stay the same, probably $10-15K range. If I end up having to throw a 60 and coil overs under the front and rework the suspension, I will then also throw on a almost new set of 42's I have sitting around and the price will just to the $15-25K range.

If you are indeed truly, PM, email, or call me and we can talk.

[Brucker]

Welcome to the world of rail car repair. Although, we use hammers more than clamps. :)



Ahh, good old Coors. I do kinda miss it out there. Wait, what the heck am I saying? I thank God everyday I don't have to deal with that place anymore.

[JFjeld]

Looking forward to this build, Aaron. Of course, I'm a tad partial to red TJs...

[Brucker]

Looking forward to this build, Aaron. Of course, I'm a tad partial to red TJs...

Thanks Jason! I will take it even if your opinion is biased ;)

[Brucker]

Waiting on the new wiring harness to arrive so we start on the new tube work. The cage will be integrated into the body and frame in many places, effectively making the entire structure one piece much like most buggies and race chassis are.

Start off with bending up the main hoop, or B pillar hoop, and tack weld it into position. You will notice that it is not too far off the factory's positioning, but the new tube is completely vertical instead of raked rearward. This provides the most possible strength, and given that this area being the "backbone" of the entire cage structure, we believe it's needed.

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Bent, notched and tacked two side bars to connect the main hoop to the original cage plates (cage feet) that are still welded into place. Then made a shoulder bar tying all together.

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From there we added in each side floor bar, connecting the front hoop's cage mounting plate to the main hoop. Then made up the lower crossbar to tie the two sides together again.

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[Brucker]

Next addition was a center tube from the shoulder bar to the rectangular tubing.

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Then another tube was added in the same line that continued to the lower crossbar. This tying the entire structure together in the center of the rig.

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Next we will add some gusseting to the fresh tube work and hopefully start diving into the electrical demons!

[Patrolman]

Nice work! I like the cage design and attention to detail.

[Brucker]

Got a little more accomplished but not much. The shop workload is absolutely insane at the moment. But fabricated a couple of gussets to bridge the distances between the center tube structure and the body where the tubes have the longest spans. Again, doing all this to reinforce the center of the rig since everything builds outwards from there.

First gusset get set into position between the center down bar and the freshly fabricated back panel. Then made another one and tack welded it into position directly below the first. This one spans the gap between the lower crossbar and the transfer hump in the floor.

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[Brucker]

The new to us wiring harness finally arrived! Now we can finally tear into the dash and hopefully solve the wiring nightmare. We start by removing the glove box, air bags, steering wheel, and the dash trim pieces. Then we removed the dash once we were able to untangle what seemed to be 20 different balls of wiring that kept it connected to the firewall.

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Immediately we could spot some major damage done to the original harness. Both from the fire and because of all the improperly installed wiring. Don't recall ever seeing so many cheap splice connectors in one vehicle. You will also notice many bare wires and wires that were just cut and left exposed. And also the fuse that melted as a result. It's no wonder why it caught fire anymore. Just happy it wasn't worse and that it was contained to just the harness itself.

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Then its out with the old.

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[Brucker]

And in with the new.

We install the new under dash harness following the original factory routing. The only different being that we use zip ties to hold the harness into place instead of tape. This will allow for easier access when needed and a cleaner look.

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Then we turn our attention to the dash harnesses. We route the wiring back to factory positioning, again using zip ties instead of tape as our fasteners. It is amazing how clean factory wiring really is.

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With all the faulty wiring finally swapped out and replaced, we reassemble the components in order to test everything before moving forward. Once reattached we turn the key to the on position and immediately hear the fuel pump kick on and pressurize the system. Good news! So we turn the ignition to start and get... NOTHING. Absolutely nothing. So we double check all connections and try again. Same result, nothing. Time to start trouble shooting.

After some time, we realized that the harness that was sent to us had a remote start system installed into it at some point. Once found and removed the TJ quickly sprung back to life. GREAT news! Knowing that we conquered this Jeep's electrical demons by completely replacing the entire harness lets us continue with the fabrication.

[xaza]

This thing is progressing nicely. Love the attention to detail and pride in quality. Very nice work.

[carpenle]

Very nice work Aaron :bowdown:

[Brucker]

Knowing that the Jeep runs well once again and is rid of it's electrical demons, we can start back up with the cage work. Not being big fans of the angle iron A pillar style cages (ie poison Spyder, BTF, etc) we opt to use DOM tubing all the way to the floor/base plates.

Ie angle iron legs:

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But as everyone knows, round tubing can take up a lot of precious space. So we decide to run the tube work behind the dash. This will not only allow for the most possible clearances, but will allow us to weld the body to the tube work providing the greatest strength achievable. Having done this multiple times before we know that it's quite simple and will not effect anything behind the dash and will keep the dash completely removable. It will require a small amount of trimming to both sides of the dash.

We layout a section of the sheet metal supporting the windshield frame to remove so the new a pillar can sit as close to the firewall as possible.

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Then the piece is removed from both sides.

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Once complete we cut, bent, notch the driver side bar.

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[Brucker]

Then we make a mirror image out of a fresh stick for the passenger side and tack weld both new bars into place.

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We make a front spreader bar between the two new front legs and tack weld it into position. And with the rigidity the it provides, we are finally able to test fit the dash. It will need a little more finish trimming, but it quickly and easily slides into place without being impeded.

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With the dash in place, we then make and place the windshield bar as tight to the dash as we can get it while still allowing for easy accessibility.

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[MultiScuf]

Looks good

[Brucker]

Next tube gets tacked welded into position between the front spreader and the main, or B pillar, hoop. We then continue this line down from the front spreader to the windshield bar. We fit this tube as close to the windshield as possible.

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Moving right along we cut, bend, and notch two more bars to be used as spreaders from front to back. Each will tie it's respected side from the front leg and spreader back to the center of the main hoop. Once fitted perfectly we tack weld each tube into position.

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[Jim]

After a day of work'n on the project, photos and write-up might seem like a bit more work that need not be tended - though I'll say thanks (to you and the other craftsmen and the projects). I appreciate seeing things come together.

[Brucker]

After a day of work'n on the project, photos and write-up might seem like a bit more work that need not be tended - though I'll say thanks (to you and the other craftsmen and the projects). I appreciate seeing things come together.

Glad you enjoy it. The write up's can become quite tedious as they are time consuming and usually lead to more questions than one may have time for, but I find they are very helpful. Not only as a pimping and promotional tool, but also to show the amount of work that decent fabrication actually takes. A lot of people have a hard time understanding what all actually goes into the entire process. People like to think that since we can make it look easy, that it is indeed just that. Where in reality, it's takes years of experience just to properly do each step of the process in a somewhat timely fashion. Unfortunately, it is VERY difficult to convey just how much thought and design work that goes into the simplest of creations.

Anywho, I truely am happy that this is being enjoyed by at least some :) Enjoy!

[Beefy]

If I was in a position to get back into a wheeling rig, this would be it. Your work is incredible. I need to stop by your shop sometime.

[Myrtle Turtle]

I have about 50 of those overwhelming questions, but I'll stick to one. What are you going to do about a top? Obviously this isn't going to be daily driven, but it will need something to keep the sun/hail off the driver's head.

[Brucker]

I have about 50 of those overwhelming questions, but I'll stick to one. What are you going to do about a top? Obviously this isn't going to be daily driven, but it will need something to keep the sun/hail off the driver's head.

Ask them all! It may take me a little bit to get to them all, but I promise to try.

Why wouldn't this be driven daily? Cost of tires? Quite honestly it drives down the road straight and stops well. It has a fully functioning heater, and at the moment it has soft upper doors, bikini top, and a windjammer. We are in CO, 300 days of sunshine annually.

Ok, so I probably wouldn't DD it either, but I have owned much worse (4Runner w/ no top or doors for a couple of years; motorcycle only for a couple years, etc).

As for the final top solution, I thought I had already covered it with Patrolman's post a page or two ago, but since it was missed or misunderstood, I will try again. I am in the process of designing a custom soft top. It will stay with the half cab theme. I haven't found the time to learn how to sew yet, so it will either get done eventually, or I will take it to an upholsterer.

[Myrtle Turtle]

As for the final top solution, I thought I had already covered it with Patrolman's post a page or two ago

I did miss this, guilty of just looking at the pictures the first time through. I DO sew, and was looking at all those angles in the cage roof and thinking that it's going to to be interesting (fun!) making a top that doesn't want to puddle up and sheds the water somewhere other than into the drivers lap. My JK is guilty of this and it looks like that top bar curves out a little wider than the side of the body on your cage which should help a lot with that. I'll keep watching.


Why wouldn't this be driven daily? Cost of tires?

Partly tire wear....I did read the part where you were considering putting on 42s....but mostly weather, sure it's sunny today, but it's also 30 out there. Plus it's just a lot of work sometimes wrestling around a big rig and wearing "office work" clothes. I do like the option of having my trail rig street legal in the summer time, but probably wouldn't daily drive that in the winter.....given that I had another option.

[Rick]

Anywho, I truely am happy that this is being enjoyed by at least some Enjoy! Looks Great!!!! Out of my budget but I am enjoying the build process... Great Job :thumb:

[H8ROADS]

This has been super fun to read. I can only hope one day to have a workshop where I can work on such projects. This guy is envious.

[88Toy]

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Nice curves...

I might have missed it, Aaron, but did you ever figure out what shorted and caused the fire? Looks like they had a #9 wire for a fuse! Great looking project.

[xaza]

He did find it when replacing wire harness in post #26. :2thumbup:

[88Toy]

What I see there is evidence (fried insulation) of a dead short to ground somewhere on the harness. Just asking if there was a single short that caused all that. :2thumbup::2thumbup:

[Brucker]

Nice curves...

I might have missed it, Aaron, but did you ever figure out what shorted and caused the fire? Looks like they had a #9 wire for a fuse! Great looking project.

The Saint Pauli girls are some of my favorites :)

There were at least 3 different spots that could have been the origin of the fire. Though the one I believe started it all was in the accessories harness. All wires were cut, left uncapped and hot, while being bundled together with electrical tape. Figuring out which wire was the main problem could be impossible. That in turn took out the parking lights circuit (the melted fuse) and the radio circuit.

[Brucker]

Finished up the main tube work for the interior part of the cage. Added three more bars within the main hoop. One vertically in the center and then two diagonals. All 3 bar are cut, bent, notched and fitted into position. Then tack welded to keep them in place. This newly completed center structure should be able to take quite a bit of abuse for all angles.

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Next two more bars are made to act large gussets between the top of the side bars and the side of the B pillar. Not only will these provide much needed support and strength, but they help "round out" the looks of the structure as a whole.

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The majority of the inner cage is now complete but still needs more gusseting and then to be finish welded. We still need to tie the cage to the rear of the vehicle, but will wait till be have the new fuel cell enclosure built. And next up we will start on just that, the fuel cell enclosure.

And as always, if you'd like to look at more photos, check out our page here: https://www.facebook.com/BruckerBrothersLtd

[Dutch]

Cage is looking pretty good man, and should withstand plenty of abuse. Its a bit "southern rock bouncer" for my tastes, but definitely well made. What are your plans for the rear? Just some simple spreaders as its a 2 seater or continued extravagance?

I thought you had mentioned it before but I can't quite remember, what are your plans for the fuel cell? Sticking with the stock tank or going aluminum? There are plenty of options for fitting the stock fuel pump/sending unit assembly into an aluminum fuel cell, and it would clean up the back of the jeep, plus allow more cargo room.

Here is the adapter ring you would need:
http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/product.php?productid=16259

Me personally I would stick this guy: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rci-2161a?seid=srese1&gclid=CPzN4L6FocMCFYI6aQod-YEAxQ up against that bulkhead you made for behind the seats and use the adapter ring to retain the stock pump/sending unit. I'd probably add some Walbro pickups as well to make sure I could use the entire tank of fuel. I ran the same RCI fuel cell in my YJ and mounted the stock YJ pump/sending unit assembly to it. Worked very well. I did the same to my neighbor's YJ and his is still working like a champ.

Just food for thought. Great work on the Jeep so far.

[Brucker]

The TJ came with the stock tank located in the rear most part of the tub. It was held in place using a pair of metal straps but was left open to the elements. Not only did this making accessing the only useable storage space difficult, it also left the tank completely unprotected and really detracted in the general appearance of the vehicle.

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Our plan is to flip the tank around and move it directly behind the freshly fabricated bulkhead. Then we will make an enclosure for it with an integrated tank mount. So the new location would be here:

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We start by fabricating a mount for the filler neck.

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Once completed, the new mount is tack welded into position.

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And we also cap the exposed fender tubing.

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Then start on making a lip for the new enclosure to seal upon. We use 1/8" strap and angle to create said lip around the entire perimeter.

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[Brucker]

We continue with the fuel cell enclosure. In order to securely fasten the enclosure we will be using cage nuts and stainless steel hardware.

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We layout and drill the lip for thru holes and then weld the cage nuts to the back side of the holes. Then we cut and bead form a to panel out of thin gauge sheet metal. Once the panel is fully worked over we test fit it into position.

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With the top panel secured into place, we turn our attention to making the tank mount. Our plan includes the use of sections of the original straps.

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Once the are cut to proper length, we place the tank with the straps into position. The measure for the connecting panels. We then layout and cut the two new panels. After they are cleaned up we use our dimple dies to add strength and rigidity to the thin gauge panels.

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Then we tack weld them into position between the top panel and the two sections of strap.

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[Brucker]

We then remove the new structure from the vehicle:

https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10407324_922231501120570_6880439295951450522_n.jpg ?oh=afcdef8f97cfde56a5e274c59ce33a5c&oe=552E2582

https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/l/t1.0-9/936699_922231484453905_8933460412493454959_n.jpg?o h=aa4d5d897dceb6850230d171e29867d7&oe=5525324B
https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/16504_922231634453890_7319858925262382971_n.jpg?oh =93660777ce8d787d0993c55dec865b3f&oe=555E90B3

In order to finish up the new fuel cell enclosure/mount we cut and fit the rest of the pieces of strap to line the perimeter of the vertical panels.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10393877_922758571067863_5816723402166298671_n.jpg ?oh=85c72cb83f4054663c6667a9cc9477be&oe=556B77B8&__gda__=1428319442_afc2565203d71bf7a8efc7c19b2a4b0 2


Once those are tack welded into position, we turn our attention to the last panel needed to finish out the structure. We prep a section of sheet metal by cutting it to size and then roll forming some beads into it to match the other panels and also roll a lip into it.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10923247_922758454401208_8858781729390449859_n.jpg ?oh=6285c294e9324ca53a7821041917cbec&oe=552BB89B&__gda__=1432167715_10bf3fc578a142c125957b754b0cc0d f

The new panel is tack welded in position and then we drill through the new panel and the perimeter lip for the mounting hardware.

https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10934024_922758587734528_2145091479528016463_n.jpg ?oh=4dc85080f48df523ac22f6adf7b418d1&oe=5565BB93

Then we remove the enclosure/mount and weld the cage nuts into place. The mount is then clamped to the fab table and fully welded.

https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10347069_922758914401162_6781066258166795083_n.jpg ?oh=6f0bd52f73f9de8b3d623c2af495e15f&oe=552C8824

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10329198_922758657734521_6734878083175625185_n.jpg ?oh=1f5113ed4a344e0b270bf1f03490dff4&oe=552DA888&__gda__=1429005825_9a22f2cb6fb3fd8662c2702da728b1e c

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10858482_922759064401147_1613394271807697202_n.jpg ?oh=3c59b75d155a00b135d344c31673bc4f&oe=552FBD64&__gda__=1428215004_17ee89eabfb5146735861dd35ef5bdb 3

After the new structure has fully cooled, it is put back onto the vehicle and all the hardware is installed to check fit and finish. Came out well, just as we had hoped.

https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10372530_922759387734448_4594798929946729007_n.jpg ?oh=bc2206d82a92097fc0f86c8eb9d4205f&oe=5530AA4B

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10922668_922758847734502_5259489622674437399_n.jpg ?oh=944501adb4a86e1753bfbb0821836c5a&oe=55617E67&__gda__=1429162463_ac79feb6827ab476b931b416d6b505f f

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10410642_922758924401161_117456873827360920_n.jpg? oh=553a854183824255580e461289b98d4f&oe=5568A8C5&__gda__=1432593557_98b24cb2069460f8994f7ea02b52cdb 8

Next up we will add some more gusseting to the tube work then continue with the rear of the vehicle. Shock relocation, rear storage area, and the lighting are all set to be reworked.

As always, there are a ton of more photos here: https://www.facebook.com/BruckerBrothersLtd

[Jim]

This installment has me asking a question: Does the polymer fuel tank have any straps that get tightened to keep the tank from shifting / rubbing [a hole in the tank] in the new containment area?

Thanks for the copious photos!

[Brucker]

This installment has me asking a question: Does the polymer fuel tank have any straps that get tightened to keep the tank from shifting / rubbing [a hole in the tank] in the new containment area?



The new enclosure lid acts as the straps. As it is fastened into place, it puts tension onto the tank where the straps are normally located. It pins the tank between the new bulkhead/floor and the lid thus not allowing the tank to ever move while the lid is secured into position. Between all metal surfaces and the tank will be neoprene sheeting. This will help reduce any wear areas that could be caused from vibration.

Having the tank fully enclosed will help the tank lifespan tremendously. Not only is it out of harms way in the center of the vehicle while being wrapped in a metal cocoon, it will not be exposed to sunlight's harmful rays, other weather elements, or nasty road grime.

[Brucker]

Thanks for the copious photos!

Sarcasm? Is the thread too picture heavy?

[xaza]

Is the thread too picture heavy?

impossible I say

[Java]

more pics! :thumb: this is my favorite thread on FR right now.

[carpenle]

Great work! I am sure Jim is not being sarcastic, the more pictures the better.

[Jim]

Correct - no sarcasm. The amount of photos is quite good (thank you).

The neoprene has my head nodding yes. Out of UV damage is a desired plus! (not that I'm judging - but the question was on my mind).

[newracer]

Someone is going to get a kick ass rig.

[Myrtle Turtle]

I'm not a metal worker.....what do the beads in the sheet metal do?

[Brucker]

I'm not a metal worker.....what do the beads in the sheet metal do?

Here is a build thread of my bead roller (it is only a couple threads down from this one): http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?22391-Electric-Bead-Roller

Should explain things for you. If you are still unsure after reading it, let me know and I will tryto better explain things, but the thread should cover it all.

[Brucker]

impossible I say

Lol, there are plenty more or on FB for anyone wanting more https://www.facebook.com/BruckerBrothersLtd


more pics! :thumb: this is my favorite thread on FR right now.

Happy you enjoy the thread.

[Myrtle Turtle]

Here is a build thread of my bead roller (it is only a couple threads down from this one): http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?22391-Electric-Bead-Roller

Should explain things for you. If you are still unsure after reading it, let me know and I will tryto better explain things, but the thread should cover it all.

That does explain it. Posts #33-36 for anyone else who has the same question.

[Brucker]

Added a little gusseting to the A pillar and windshield area. This greatly increases the strength and rigidity of the entire area, but also helps hide the ugly backside of the dash when the windshield frame is lowered or removed. In order to increase any lost visibility, we added a series of holes horizontally across the upper portions of the gussets.

https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10428526_925588184118235_155529922699780534_n.jpg? oh=503ff326d35077d2818e710d98b6bb58&oe=556312E2

We then gave them the dimple die treatment so they won't weaken the panels integrity.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10928855_925588397451547_423709211813528603_n.jpg? oh=1297757d8a5a5ef8c0da8548ae0576e3&oe=5561FBA4&__gda__=1428749925_6bbccf0a06c77fd00e0766a0766be90 c

Once the panel gussets were completed, they were welded into position. We left the center open at the defrost vents as to keep them functional.

https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10940587_925588320784888_1251414699123223652_n.jpg ?oh=f82327ccf2723876d9521d7a2033ea58&oe=5529090D

https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/l/t1.0-9/10428481_925588294118224_8567373914486263802_n.jpg ?oh=191bcdead6b43122942df3aa47935f30&oe=555C2220

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10945719_925588444118209_6508430162743890786_n.jpg ?oh=3d7b24068fa9aef55907797eeec3b746&oe=55675427&__gda__=1431494303_41714f613b2e2c2c0f3af0cbabf0309 c

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10940487_925588414118212_6897987372081696569_n.jpg ?oh=8d6a4587abfb635250700e7460442086&oe=55523C49&__gda__=1433236977_9e48f66c95f4466c5854edf65e46da5 a

https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10494645_925588500784870_6450878603503927621_n.jpg ?oh=99c1d04c90852db882eb93945c7b4016&oe=5561880B

Next up we start to tackle the rear storage area and shocks.