1987 Toyota 4Runner

[Patrolman]

Bought this about 4 years ago from a roommate for $800. He was moving to Cali and didn't think it would pass emissions there. Runs great and always passes here. He had just installed a new clutch and it had 31's on chrome wheels. Otherwise basically stock.

4Runner was a 5 speed with a 22re that was all bone stock. Plan was to make this a fun Summer rig where the top and doors come off. Also wanted to use it as a reliable rig for longer distance trips.

First thing I did (besides taking the top and doors off all Summer!) was to install a used rear electric locker geared 4.30. Also put in a front 4.30 IFS diff. I put in the Downey cable conversion kit for the e-locker. This was apparently a 1st generation cable locker model and is a POS. Only worked right 1 or 2 times. It hasn't worked since and I had to eventually disconnect it. Just haven't gotten around to taking it out. Eventually put in a Lock Right in the front, but it was so MISERABLE that the first thing I did after the 1 Moab trip with it was to take it out and sell it. The rear e-locker is more than sufficient.

Next I got a front used ARB bumper stuffed with a brand new Milemarker 12,000 electric winch. Also put on a custom made rear bumper with a swing out tire carrier. Also put on a used Wilderness products roof rack with all the attachments. Has 2 offroad lights mounted on it, 60" hi-lift jack, Pull-pal recovery anchor, flat bladed shovel, and a Pulaski (sp?). Has plenty of room for cargo, but it is heavy and definately drags on the highway.

I put in a set of used Downey front HD torsion bars from a 4Runner I used to own. These carry the additional weight nicely. Also installed ulra low profile poly bumpstops. Front also got Sonoran Steel IFS brace. The rear got rear TJ coils and a set of Downey lift shackles with poly bushings. Rides on 32" Goodyear MTR's on stock steel wheels.

Inside I decided to replace the front seats with a pair from a 1990 4Runner. The original seats had springs that were uncomfortable even though the seats appeared fine. 90 seats are much more comfy and also have better bolster and more adjustments. Installed a "brand new" Pioneer pull-out tape deck (yes, I love these!). Also installed a Cobra CB with weather band feature. Made a bikini top for the shorter Summer trips since the roof rack isn't compatible. Also made a set of 1/2 doors which I would still like to make "windows" for. Also have a set of quick release hinges.

Extras include a Mobi-Arc 90amp alternator upgrade with new brushes, Ready Welder on-board welder, ARB compressor, Warn recovery kit, fullsize tire chains.

To-Do List:
Install 2nd fuel tank where spare used to be. Need to figure out how to plumb it to work how I want it to. Been sitting in the garage for about 3 years!
SR5 gauge set with tach
Replace rear seats with 1990 seats
Rebuild/replace rear bumper with one that has additional carrying capacity and opens both directions.
Finish building custom full floating rear axle with disc brakes.
Install Budbuilt t-case mount and skid plate that is waiting for it (done)
Install the KN air filter that is waiting for it.
Hopefully a dual t-case!
Possibly dual batteries.

[Patrolman]

General over-all pics. Detailed pics will hopefully follow soon!

[Patrolman]

1/2 doors pics

[Patrolman]

Pics when it first came home!

[Patrolman]

Forgot that I made a diamond plate aluminum tailgate panel. Also took some other shots today.

[Patrolman]

More pics from today.

[Patrolman]

Bud-Built t-case crossmember went in this evening. Pics to follow tomorrow. Also have to attach the skidplate still.
http://www.budbuilt.com/new/single_cross_members.html

[Pathrat]

Impressive! :wrench: I am always impressed when I see what people have done on their own. What you did is one reason I am here, to learn from those who know. I need a welding class...:)

One question. In your third set of pictures, the fifth one posted, what is that metal rusted thing?

Thanks

[Patrolman]

That would be the Pull-pal on the roofrack. It hasn't been used by me yet. Go figure. Haven't needed it! Have set it up and make sure it all works, but really it just sits on the rack. Might have to sand it down and spray it again.

[Funrover]

Like the 1/2 doors!

[Patrolman]

Lots of thinking, measuring, careful cutting, etc. Hardest part is what to do with the handle to open the door. Nice to have though for Summer! Easy to do for most any rig!

[Brody]

Pathrat

Jon and I proposed doing a hands on welding class and giving everyone the benefit of our experience. Bear and Jeff would also probably help as they also weld. Both Bear and I are self taught, but I think Jon actually has some real training. I don't know about Jeff, just know that he welds. We would have 3 welders or more, plus helmets, gloves, etc., which would be great. I think that all of us could learn something from this.

If we can set up a time that works, and if Jon is willing to use his barn for the room, Bear and I could bring our rigs, helmets and other junk (including junk to weld) over. What would be nice is if people who are interested also brought stuff that they really need or wanted to get welded up. Two birds with one stone...

Wouldn't be a good idea to bring kids, so keep that in mind.

I'll wait to see what Jon's reply is and go from that, so be watching.

[Patrolman]

I am self taught, and DEFINATELY still learning. Only started this past Winter really. My little POS 90amp gasless does the job but I don't use it for anything that needs to have real strength.

I could bring the 90 amp as well as my ReadyWelder, 2 masks, pair of gloves. Give some people a chance to try out a couple different things with the Readywelder. I don't mind giving the basic "tips" on how the welder works and such. Not a good teacher on technique as I am still getting mine down. Could definately learn some things myself.

[4Runninfun]

Yeah the barn works just fine for me. I'll have to work it in after funrover's camper is out. But yeah. I have both 110 and 220 wired in so we can run whatever. I have lots of scrap steel but it's always great to have more. we'll have everyone contribute some rod or wire i'll fire up the grill and make a day of it.

[Patrolman]

Pics of old crossmember and new crossmember. What a difference! Shaved off about 1-2" and is nice and flat. Also likely considerably stronger.

[Pathrat]

Thanks Brody! I don't have anything that needs welding, that I KNOW of, or parts to donate. However, I do think this would be super-cool to watch! I am very interested in how it all works and why.

[Brody]

Who did the skid plate? I don't recognize the design. Always good to lose some inches, too.

No need to donate anything. Most of us who do any welding or fab stuff don't throw any steel away, so we have 'junk' lying around. I could probably get High Country or Altitude Steel to donate some more 'junk', too.

LaDawn welded a couple of my roll cage gussets on since she hadn't ever welded anything and wanted to try it. It is certainly not a bad thing to know how to do.

Thanks Jeff! I think that this would be fun and informative. I have been welding for years, but with no formal training, 110, 220, wire feed and stick, and just did some reading and a lot of welding. Still could learn a lot, though.

[Chris]

Jon and I proposed doing a hands on welding class

I'd be interested in this. I spent a couple years as a sheet metal fabricator and did plenty of welding but 25 years have past since then. I think I'd pick it up pretty easily again but I'll never know until I try.

[Patrolman]

Sorry, forgot to answer that the cross member is Budbuilt. It is apparently a very early one, maybe one of the first. Has a detachable skid plate.

So I drained the oil from the 4Runner overnight. Hadn't put 70 miles on it in the last year. Also hadn't changed the oil in a year. Anyone ever changed oil and forgot to put the drain plug back in? Luckily the oil pan was still under it. Unfortunately it was basically full and ran all over the edges onto the driveway. Only good news is that the driveway is all crumbled and will hopefully be replaced this fall.

Took the 4Runner out this afternoon. Runs and drives great. Forgot just how gutless it really is though. Not sure why the 22re in it has so little power, even compared to my truck with a 22r. Same gears and nearly same tire size. Go figure. Started looking at upgrades after having it out this afternoon!

[Patrolman]

So the poor old radiator in the 4Runner has been weeping for a couple years. Now it actually has a little stream of antifreeze. Being that it is supposed to head to Utah in 6 days, I finally decided it needed a radiator. Got a "used" Howe aluminum radiator at a good price. Never installed. Hoping that it works out well for my needs!

[Patrolman]

Radiator went in today. Quite an ordeal as it wasn't really intended for a Toyota. Had already been tig'd to have the appropriate mounts on it. Had to search through all the radiator hoses at both Checker and Napa to find a pair that would work. A little rigging and it fits like it came from the factory! Also got fresh 5 year 150k mile antifreeze. Cooling system should be good to go for quite some time!

[Patrolman]

So I got the skid plate mounted on prior to the Utah trip. It is made to fit on the BudBuilt t-case crossmember. Works great! Much more protection over the stock "skid" and much better clearance.

[Pathrat]

Nice work on everything Jeff!

[Patrolman]

Thank you. I was very pleased with how it did in Utah this past week. Ran flawlessly and drove nearly perfect over everything that we went on! A great expedition rig.

[Tye]

Wow Jeff, that is some nice work, you can tell time was spent wisely.
I have found that when I sit on my mods and not rush them the work comes out better. I see what the likes and dislikes are from other peoples projects, I dont want to regret the time and money lost on a worthless mod.

[Brody]

Nice work Jeff! I had a Howe radiator in an 81 Yota PU that I put an injected 302 in. Worked fine with no overheating issues, so you should have none at all...

Now we know why Tye walks around so funny and with that 'Look' on his face....he has to sit on all of his projects for awhile! Man, that bumper...actually both bumpers..must have been rough! No wonder Steve said that you were a little cranky...And think of the front end repair and the birfield repacking...the tie rod replacement...the list goes on....

[Patrolman]

I picked up the latest mod from FedEx shipping facility today. Got a Marlin dual t-case adapter while they are on sale. Just over $300 including shipping. I already had a 2nd top shift, and Englewood d-shaft will be modding the shafts for me. Will be under $600 for the total project, unless I decide to go with a new x-member and skid plate. In any case I think it is $ well spent. It could use lower gears every so often.

[Volcom]

You're going to love having the extra gearing. Makes wheeling the tougher stuff more enjoyable.

[Brody]

You're going to love having the extra gearing. Makes wheeling the tougher stuff more enjoyable.

X2, not to mention the wear and tear that you save on the entire driveline...2:28x2:28 works just fine, though if you aren't in a huge hurry to put this together, you may want to do the 4:7 in the rear case and a hardened output. Pretty much depends on what you want to have for the end result...and, of course, $$

[Patrolman]

There have been several times where I needed lower gearing for going up "steps". The normal 4lo does fine, but a few times I had to gas the 22re and slip the clutch more than I like to get up a step. Since it is still IFS running 32's, and will stay that way, I think the 2.28's will be more than enough. I can't see how they will be a bad thing!

[Haku]

I'm running dual stock cases right now, and while I definitely want to get the 4.7's at some point, there hasn't been anything that I have found that I really needed it so far. The "ultimate" setup is nice since its easier to crawl along at idle though. I stall a lot when I try to do that now. I think a simple thumb throttle that just bumps the idle up a bit would solve it though.

JH

[Patrolman]

SO, 2 1/2 years and one daughter and a new house later, I FINALLY got around to starting the dual cases tonight. The adapter had been sitting in the basement, and the t-case in the garage along with a pair of cv driveshafts to have modified. Decided to tear into the t-case that will become the crawl box. Got it nearly all apart in about 90 minutes. Last thing to do is pull out the press and remove a bearing. Then it starts to go back together. I am using these instructions which are pretty good:

http://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/guide/dual-case-crawler-installer

[Patrolman]

It is SO nice to work on the 4Runner in a garage, even if it isn't heated! I took some pics as I was working. I had bought this slick chain tool that is attached to a vice grip style clamp tool. It is great for cinching down on anything round. I was able to wrap it around the rear output flange to hold it steady while removing the large nut.

[Patrolman]

In assembling the crawl box, you have to use a set of snap ring pliers to install a really tight snap ring. There are also some that are difficult to remove in the tear down process, so you may as well buy them up front. You might get away with a smaller or cheaper set initially, but for the toughest job in the assembly, these were BARELY wide enough, but did the job:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100348008/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=snap+ring&storeId=10051#.ULrLk9WaDIU

They are pretty slick too and something I will be glad to have in my tool cabinet! Made in USA too, so something to be proud of.

[Patrolman]

Here are the updates to the dual install. The case is all gutted and torn down ready for the adapter. LOTS of extra parts on the work bench. Had to weld the keyway onto the shifter. This keeps the shifter from popping out of place. After putting the case together, I found out that the transfer case I used for the doubler was a 1979 or 1980 apparently with a 4 speed manual transmission. I had to grind some of the diameter of the splines off the front of the doubler. Once the splines had a consistent diameter all the way front to back, I was able to slide this together. Here are links to similar issues:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/848136-toyota-duals-some-ts-dont-work.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/217904-21-spline-input-stronger.html

[Patrolman]

I got the doubler and the original t-case mounted up to it yesterday. Got the Budbuilt crossmember back in. It isn't clear if the front driveshaft will clear the crossmember. It won't move since it is IFS and the front diff is fixed in place, so as along as it clears, even just barely, it should be good. The rear won't have a clearance issue. If it does, I may buy a new crossmember/skidplate.

I had the extension for the speedometer and get it installed. I need to make an extension plug for the transfer case wire (just turns on the dash 4wd light, so not urgent). Also need to cut the floor to put the extra shifter through. Have everything torn apart and marked, but no cuts yet. Will also have to modify the center console. Undecided how I want it to fit.

The pair of front CV driveshafts go into Englewood Driveshaft tomorrow to be lengthened. One will be for the front, one for rear. :)

[Chris]

Looking good!

[WDoG]

Really nice work. So you've put granny t-case gear and a double up on the t-cases? Super looooowwww. :D

[Patrolman]

Actually, all I did was the double t-cases. No granny 4.7 gear in either case. Should still be plenty low gearing though for my 4Runner!

[WDoG]

Have you cut for the 2nd shifter yet? If so, PICS!

[glacierpaul]

Really nice Jeff!! Love the chain vise-grips too, work great for sharp or boogered up metal fittings and pipe, where the strap style will tear.

[Patrolman]

Yeah, the chain tool is super slick! Ebay for under $10 with shipping I think. It was the only way to grab something round and hold it so i could avoid using air (daughter was asleep).

[Patrolman]

So I have been struggling with actually getting the drive shafts back into the 4Runner. The front needs to be longer, and the rear shorter. The rear will perform better with the CV from a front drive shaft built into it. The problem is that the flanges on the front and rear of the t-case are not the same.

First thought was to just swap the flanges on the front/rear shafts I have, so the CV will end up in the back. That was a no-go for me, since they are SO difficult to get out and only a handful of people online have taken a CV apart. I tried the 20 ton press, the sledge, etc. Unsure what happens if one fails on the trail.

Second thought was to removed the output flanges on the t-case and swap the front and rear since the splines are all the same. The front nut came off easy, but the nut on the rear flange wouldn't come off for anything. Heat, impact, etc. I believe it has Loctite red, as it seemed to ooze out with heat.

SO, the solution I believe is going to be to have Englewood Driveshaft swap the flanges when they lengthen the front CV shaft to fit in the rear. I had an shaft that is the right length for the front already, except I am going to have the CV removed. It is IFS, and the front diff never moves, so no need for the CV. It wouldn't pass the transfer cross member anyways, so just one less thing to worry about by removing it.

The shafts go to the shop Wednesday, so I hope to have pics and the project done by the end of the week!

[Patrolman]

The drive shafts will be ready at Englewood Driveshaft tomorrow. :) Can't wait to get the 4Runner back on the road! More projects to come after everything checks out with the duals.

[Patrolman]

Somehow the front shaft came back a few inches too short. Bill at Englewood Driveshaft made everything right and went above and beyond by even dropping it off at my house. Best customer service you can ask for and he does great work! :)

My camera crapped out, but pics will follow soon.

[Patrolman]

So I finally got the hole cut for the 2nd shifter. I rolled the 4Runner out of the garage and had to put it on hold this Spring. Pics will follow in a couple days, but first the story. :)

I wanted to make sure the hole would be in the right spot as you can't undo a hole in the floor. I put both cases together and in the 4Runner and then drilled a couple tiny holes to determine the center of the shifter hole. Proceeded to cut with the air cut-off wheels a small hole. That allowed me to make a more accurate 2nd cut for the full sized hole. Got it all cut, but couldn't get the shifter in as 1 piece. I removed the shifter from the based it fits into. I then placed the base in, and tested the shifter. Worked great, so I proceeded to bolt in the shifter base. Managed to drop a bolt into the t-case with a nice kerplunk in the oil at the very bottom. DOH! Drained the t-case, took it out, and shook it violently on the ground until the bolt finally dropped out.

At this time I also realized the shifter wasn't moving from 2wd to 4-hi as it should. Had to figure out where to make a grind on the 2wd/4wd shift rail. That is detailed in another thread.
http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?12314-toyota-transfer-case&p=234125#post234125

After putting it all together, the 2nd shifter wouldn't fit in the console "pocket" like I wanted, so I made a cut at the bend in the shifter, and welded it up so it is now straight. Should now fit very nicely in the console with no conflict with the console or other shifters. :)

[RidgeRunner]

Managed to drop a bolt into the t-case with a nice kerplunk in the oil at the very bottom.

:eek::mad::mad::mad::bang::bang::bang:

That sucks! Glad you got it all taken care of.

[Patrolman]

So the t-case shifter is going to consume the area where the switches are in the center console. I didn't want to go with a short shifter, so I had to come up with another solution.

I decided to move the switch for the rear window and the switch for the rear wiper. The button for the rear window lock is going to be plugged in, but just tucked under the console. It has to be plugged in for the window to work, but it is the stupidest switch/button. My solution was to move the window/wiper switches above the radio. There are little cut-outs already there. Just had to extend the wiring but cutting the harness for the plug and adding in more wire. Works great and completely looks like it should be there! So far I have only moved the window switch. The wiper will be where the cutout is on the right side. Need to get rid of that metal toggle since it doesn't do anything anyways.

[glacierpaul]

Nice!!

[Patrolman]

After taking the 4Runner wheeling a couple times last year, I noticed that the extra torque was too much for the single stock t-case mount that I had on it. Every so often, without even much gas applied, the t-case would twist up a bit and the drive-shaft flange would rub on the "horseshoe" frame cross-member. It has a Budbuilt cross-member with a single t-case skid plate, which I had to remove as the skid plate wouldn't fit with the dual cases. I thought about buying the double skid plate, like it should have, which should solve the problem.

Instead, I ran across a deal on CL. Picked up a full setup. Includes a dual t-case cross-member and skid-plate combo. I think it is a Trailgear as it is all 1 piece. Will be an easy bolt in job and should solve all the problems. The package deal also had an assembled dual case setup with 2.28 gears in each case, and a twin stick for the rear case. :) I think the twin stick is going in the 4Runner. It has the short throw shifter on it too. I am thinking of the dual cases in the Custom Cab, but the cases have the standard 21 spline, and my truck has the 23 spline setup since it was a turbo model originally. Decisions, decisions...

[Patrolman]

We had the top off this Summer and the bikini top on. The 1st time my daughter rode in the 4Runner was this Summer, with the top off. She likes it a lot. Had to put the top back on for the Fall cleanup run. Too chilly on I-70 at 8AM. Here are the pics of the 4Runner on the Friday night before the run as I am prepping to put the hardtop back on.

[Patrolman]

I should also note that this Summer I started the interior swap. I put in 2nd gen rear seats in grey to replace the red. The previous seats had at least a quart of oil spill on them and basically got ruined. I had been putting off the seat swap, so glad I did. These seats have more/better cushion and are much more comfy. The 1st gen frames had to be used, so it was a matter of removing the cloth and the cushions and making it fit the 1st gen frames. It isn't perfect underneath, but with the seats in the upright position, you really can't tell. I also got a pair of grey 1st gen SR5 front seats. The drive side has been swapped, but need to do the passenger still.

[Patrolman]

Decided to tackle the next project yesterday. I have had a rack on the roof that was close to full length. Every time that the top comes off, the rack had to come off too. Last Fall the rack never got put back on. It is heavy and bulky to keep swapping with the roof. It is a great asset for long trips, so I won't be getting rid of it, but for shorter trips and day trips, a smaller rack will now be in place. Also the Pull-Pal will be able to mount to the smaller rack still. The smaller rack also fits over the front portion of the cab, so the rear roof section can be removed without needing to remove the rack. :)

The short rack and all the associated parts were sitting around the garage for years, so basically no cost except some hardware. The roof rack is actually a rack for a YJ that goes over the spare tire. I got it for free years ago intending to put it on the back of the 4Runner, but it found its way to the roof instead. The bars and feet are Thule that came on another car that I had purchased years ago.

In addition to putting on the rack, I finally put on the 4 Hella 700FF lights on the rack. The lights are mounted on their own bar that fit on the rack and can easily swap to the larger rack while keeping all the lights on the same bar. I also upgraded each bulb from the 55w stock to a Hella 100w bulb. I still need to do the wiring, but have the switches and relays all ready to go. Also have the covers to put on after I am happy with all the wiring and aiming of the lights.

[EKXJ87]

Very cool use of space/storage, dig the dual rack idea which makes removal of the top less of a hassle I sure wish XJ's had that option!

[Patrolman]

The 4Runner has had a leaking windshield gasket for years. I finally decided to tackle it as it was leaking as you drove anytime it rained. There is a state parks sticker from 1999 in the windshield, so it has been in place for a while.

The process started with scraping out as much of the adhesive that was in place. I then used a wire brush to clean up any of the surface rust. To completely stop any rust I used this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BHYY3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once it had cured, I then used a new tube of adhesive to fill in the channel again. This fits in a caulk gun and was easy to use:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465504946&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+windshield+adhesive

I am not the best with a caulk gun, so it doesn't necessarily look pretty, but it looks a LOT better than it did before and more importantly it should be water tight. Not a bad job to avoid having to replace a windshield that doesn't even have a chip in it.

[Patrolman]

After pics. I don't intend to put the metal trim strips back into place. They were all damaged and apparently a primary source of the windshield leak problems in Toyotas.

[Jim]

It looks good!