Mileage Tips Article

[Brody]

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/brody_2008/Toyota%20Scans/Untitled-13.jpg
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/brody_2008/Toyota%20Scans/Untitled-14.jpg
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/brody_2008/Toyota%20Scans/Untitled-15.jpg

[Pathrat]

That was very informative, thanks for the post.

[Brody]

I am experimenting with some mileage savings stuff that I found and have been researching. I am going to post what has been working so far. Here is the first one:

This tip involves installing a filter in between your PCV valve and your engine. First of all, here is what a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve does. It essentially takes all the crude that is a by product of your internal combustion engine engine, which is basically unburnable crud, and shoves it back into your engine as crud. This is supposed to reduce emissions, which it does to some degree, but isn't very healthy for your engine. Why is it designed this way? Ask the government, the EPA and Detroit, I guess. Good thing it isn't a living organism, isn't it?

What this trick does is to filter the crud out of the system and send burnable gases back through the engine, thus promoting a cleaner engine, better mileage, and yes, better emissions, too. You can actually smell the difference once this is installed.

Here is the skinny: Get a Husky (Lowe's sells a Kobalt filter for about $4 cheaper) in line filter, sold at Home Depo, Lowe's, etc., a couple of brass fittings (all in or around the air tools section) that are the same inside diameter as your line for your PCV. This filter is a one way filter and has an arrow marking the direction of flow on it. Note: this is IMPORTANT!
Next pick up 8-10 ball bearings or glass bearings no larger than 1/4' and put these into the filter bowl. These give the crud something to bond to. Rescrew the bowl to the base of the filter.
Get a few more feet of the same diameter vac line (if you need it) and some clamps, plus a small vacuum cap for the bottom drain on the filter. A piece of hose with a bolt will do the same.You will cap off this drain as you will not be needing it. Make sure you do this step as the valve on the bottom turns easily and you do not want to lose vacuum pressure.
Cut the vacuum line at a convenient place and install the filter with the arrow pointing away from the PCV valve and back towards the engine.( Air flows from the PCV valve into the engine.) Mount the filter at least as low as your PCV valve.Attach all the lines and make sure everything is sealed up.

Pictures show how I mounted mine. There are two small screw holes on each side of the filter and I made a bracket for mine to use them.
Does it work? Yes. I showed a 2-3mpg gain in mileage even with the wheeling ,but I was also using a home brew additive. The exhaust gases smell way cleaner and the amount of crud I emptied out after one tank was amazing. There is also considerably less condensation type smoke when I start it up.

Expect to clean it after every tankfull of gas for about 3-4 tanks. After that your engine will be running a lot cleaner and maintenance will not be as often. You will have to clean this by unscrewing the bowl and rinsing both it and the bearings off. There is also a filter that will eventually get plugged up, but these are cleanable or replaceable.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/brody_2008/Metberry%20PCV/MetberryPCVstuff002.jpg
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/brody_2008/Metberry%20PCV/MetberryPCVstuff003.jpg
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/brody_2008/Metberry%20PCV/MetberryPCVstuff004.jpg
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/brody_2008/Metberry%20PCV/MetberryPCVstuff005.jpg
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/brody_2008/Metberry%20PCV/MetberryPCVstuff006.jpg

I am also working with a home brew gas additive that is supposed to better mileage and improve emissions. It does this by atomizing the gas so that it burns faster and cleaner. The stuff for this is over the counter, you mix it at home as needed, and the cost is minimal. It also has a proven track record. Does it work? I will let you know as this is my second tank with this and I will be doing all highway and city driving.

[Patrolman]

All very good tips. The "science" behind some of the info is wrong, but so long as it works, it doesn't matter "why", right?!

[Brody]

Here is another one that will work for everyone:

This is a home brew gas additive that anyone can make and it works. I am on my 4th tank of gas with it and have no complaints, plus I have picked up some mpg, power, and have a much cleaner running engine. The measurements are critical as too much causes a decrease in mileage. The Acetone source is critical, too, as most stores stock the Acetone that evaporates fast, which you do not want.

What both the Acetone and Xylene do is break down the gas molecules so that they atomize the gas for cleaner, more complete burning-resulting in better power and mileage. The Torco oil lubricates the upper cylinder walls and cleans out the gunk that builds up in the cylinder heads.

Get the Acetone at Checkers, Auto Zone or any other car store in the paint department. This is a paint grade Acetone and doesn't have the evaporatives that Home Depo's Acetone has. Xylene can be found in quart size at Ace Hardware. Torco can be found at Howells on 232 South Federal Blvd or at any high performance motorcycle shop or online at 'torco.com'.

The mix:

2 parts Acetone
1 part Xylene
1 teaspoon torco oil

Mix in a container that isn't going to melt. Add 3 ounces of this mix for every 10 gallons of gas. Give it about 2 tanks to feel and smell the difference. Expect to have to change your fuel filter after about 4 tanks as this stuff will start to clean out all the crapola in your gas tank and the rest of your fuel system.

Like I said, this stuff works and is considerably cheaper than BG44k and you can run it in every tank. I have had very good luck with this, so I am passing it along.

[Pathrat]

Very cool, I am going to try that. I have to add, without casting anyone as being less than super-smart, that Xylene is a carcinogen and whoever is mixing might want to wear gloves, if it didn't occur to them already. Also, the stuff can sometimes spontaneously combust when it is too warm but rinsing your container with dish soap as a solvent will prevent this.
Thanks for the info Brody.

[Funrover]

Thanks Pete

[Brody]

Thanks Pathrat for the safety pointer! I just assumed that people would pick up on the safety issues, just like dealing with all solvents and combustibles.

Safety Warning:

Gasolene, Xlene, Acetone are all highly flammable and kill more people in California than anywhere else if not handled properly. They have also been known to cause cancer in rats when the rats are subjected to a strict diet consisting mainly of the listed products.

Better?

[Pathrat]

Thanks Pathrat for the safety pointer! I just assumed that people would pick up on the safety issues, just like dealing with all solvents and combustibles.

Safety Warning:

Gasolene, Xlene, Acetone are all highly flammable and kill more people in California than anywhere else if not handled properly. They have also been known to cause cancer in rats when the rats are subjected to a strict diet consisting mainly of the listed products.

Better?

Ok, am I getting flamed for stating the obvious? :rolleyes:

I have been admonished to wear gloves with Xylene and told to put soap on the used containers. If I hadn't been told, I would not have probably just thrown the xylene coated gauze in the garbage can and left it at that. I forget that not all are as chemically challenged as me.

I like that warning! But I think pumping your own gas kills more people in Oregon, so be aware that you are dealing with gasoline when you fill your tank. Take the appropriate precautions.

[Brody]

No flaming here...actually just a thanks for stating something that I should have mentioned. I have worked with toxic stuff since I was a kid and take precautions as a matter of fact. Some people don't and I really should have said something. Worst of the bunch to me, is Methyl Ethyl Ketone, which you taste immediately if you get it on your skin...no that is some bad juju...

Much like the Sharps containers in the hospitals: not everyone grasps the obvious...you just plain don't leave used needles, etc around to get poked by them.

Thanks for the heads up

[Pathrat]

I didn't really feel singed. :) I would imagine the majority of people here have worked with solvents and combustibles longer than I have. I was the kid with the chemistry set who decided to randomly mix things- not too bright. I was just so excited to be able to add to something I know about!!!
MEK- don't know about that one.

*we had a kid intern at the main lab who spilled 100%ETOH on his pants and decided to dry said pants with a lighter. He was let go.

[Brody]

And I don't know ETOH, but it sounds lethal.

MEK is a very potent solvent and used in a lot of industrial applications. It is, if I am not mistaken, also used to thin epoxy based paints. Very, very nasty. Anything that can go through membranes like that is bad news.

[Pathrat]

ETOH is 100% alcohol, pure, for chem processes. It used to be used to perserve tissue back in the day. Some pretty undiscriminating individuals who used to work in pathology would drain the alcohol off the tissue and distill it for personal use. Vile.

[Brody]

Thanks for the information. I remember it a little now, but the memory is misty. Still has to be better than straining canned heat through white bread for drinking purposes like the street alkies do...And doesn't that sound really tasty...

[Pathrat]

I think I would almost rather look up the clinical history of the specimen in the alcohol and take my chances with that. Ewwwww