SynergyXJ Re-Build

[SynergyXJ]

I have a lot of big plans for the XJ coming up, so figured I'd get this build thread started.

It's going to be lush.

I've had this rig since 2003 and built it some in NC and VA. That portion of my rig's life was as a daily driver, and off road trials were hard to find. Now that I'm finally in Colorado and there are orders of magnitude more miles of trails and I have a new daily, I'm focusing on building it out more how I've always wanted.

My build up to this point is summarized here on Cherokee Forum: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/synergyxj-build-180050/
My build from here on out will be in this thread.

(as of 5/22/15)
What has happened in this re-build:
- New Clearwater HD cylinder head (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?22862-SynergyXJ-Re-Build&p=282546#post282546)
- 6.5" Rough Country Long Arm Kit (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?22862-SynergyXJ-Re-Build&p=282995#post282995)
- SYE (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?22862-SynergyXJ-Re-Build&p=283136#post283136) (Advance Adapters) and CV driveshaft installed
- 31x10.50 -> 33x12.50 -> 35x12.50
- MC-CTIS (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?22862-SynergyXJ-Re-Build&p=282637#post282637) (manually connected central tire inflation system)
- Alternator Splash Guard
- Bought a Miller 211 (my third machine)
- Welded track rod bracket
- Welded 2"x5" Rockers
- Installed all-aluminum radiator
- Welded front winch mount "bumper"
- Installed Transmission Cooler
- Bored throttle body to 61mm
- Installed hood louvers
- Relocated snorkel inlet


Installing Right Now:
- Chop Top
- Rigid Foam Fender Flares
- Steel Window Shield Things

Over the next year:
- Really crazy paint job
- Disc brake conversion - riding the brakes down the mountains is hard on drums with 35's
- Selectable front locker
- Buy a truck to tow this truck
- Truss, Link and Coil rear axle


Greater than a year or maybe a different XJ:
- Design a bolt on portal gearbox technology and sell those to you
- Exoskeleton
- Full width axles and 8" lift, if not the portal solution


Circa April 2015:
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_lalift/IMG_0324.jpg

Currently Installed:

Purchased Hardware:
- 6.5" Rough Country Long Arm Kit
- 35x12.50
- Powertrax rear lunchbox locker
- Clearwater Castings Heavy Duty Cylinder Head
- Rusty's Steering Box Brace

Fabricated or Heavily Modified Hardware:
- [most of this just got cut off, list update after some project completion]
- HD Hood Louver (that's Dome Depot, not heavy duty)

Recovery:
- 12,000 lbs Badlands (Harbor Freight) winch w/remote
- 3x rear shackle mounts
- straps, tree savers, shackles, snatch blocks etc.

Electrical:
- 100W Renology Solar Panel
- Marine Deep cycle battery
- 750W Power Inverter
- Computer:
- - AMD dual core 64 bit AM2, 2GB RAM, 64GB SSD
- - GPS, OBD-II, DAQ

Pneumatics:
- Compressor feeding clean, dry air to MC-CTIS

Aesthetics:
- The headliner.



Hang tight, I'll make some posts with pictures and stuff.

[SynergyXJ]

[reserved for status updates, or something]

[SynergyXJ]

Clearwater Castings Heavy Duty Cylinder Head

In case you don't know, the 2000 Cherokees have a notorious cylinder head crack. I had crazy, spontaneous and [sometimes] self-correcting symptoms over the years that I later learned were symptoms of the crack. The main two that I noticed were wonky oil pressures and mucky coolant. Lacking a debilitating condition, I continued to drive it under close eye.

In early September 2014, I was in the desert of Nevada and finally overheated and really cracked the head, resulting in a "break down" and a tow to Elko, NV. Being Labor Day weekend, I was stuck in a shut down town for 46 hours until a U-Haul opened and I rented a truck to get my truck back home. Through the adventure, I remembered hearing some rumor about an '00 cylinder head crack. I researched it more and my symptoms lined up - self diagnosis complete.

I ordered a heavy duty replacement head, complete with valves and springs from Clearwater Castings, read up in my Haynes manual and caught up on some YouTube about head replacement. It was definitely the biggest gas engine project I've ever done, but felt confident and some 16 hours of work over a month later:

I had my rig running better than it had in years. Awesome.



http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2014_cylinderhead/IMG_20140928_140318.jpg
Rockers removed, springs exposed.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2014_cylinderhead/IMG_20141010_152849.jpg
Work area next to my house.



I'll skip a tire upgrade post. The tires used to be the bald 31x10.50 AT's shown above and now they're the 33x12.50 MT's shown later.

[gm4x4lover]

Why did you want to run so much lift (6.5")with such short tires (33's)?

Should be a good looking jeep when it's done.

[SynergyXJ]

@gm4x4lover - Big lift on medium tires was mostly a function of timing. I really needed new tires and got them around September 2014, unsure of when I would get to do the lift. I'll most likely go up to 35" next time I need new tires, or just sell the 33's sooner. I'm also avoiding re-gearing until I'm ready for whole new axles.


MO-CTIS
Manually Operated Central Tire Inflation System
[re-post from Mod For The Day thread]

I hate deflating and inflating tires but I love designing pneumatic systems, so I'm developing this MO-CTIS. Basically, I connect all four tires with locking air chucks then open and close valves to inflate and deflate all four tires simultaneously. This also makes it very easy to measure the pressure without removing the chuck and all the tires have the same pressure.

I've now run this setup for several trail rides and it's working great. The goal was to be easier than manually inflating/deflating each tire, but it turns out to be faster as well.

Here are some pictures from Revision 1:
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2014_moctis/moctis-01.jpg
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2014_moctis/moctis-02.jpg

[Rick]

MO-CTIS
Manually Operated Central Tire Inflation System
[re-post from Mod For The Day thread]

I hate deflating and inflating tires but I love designing pneumatic systems, so I'm developing this MO-CTIS. Basically, I connect all four tires with locking air chucks then open and close valves to inflate and deflate all four tires simultaneously. This also makes it very easy to measure the pressure without removing the chuck and all the tires have the same pressure.that is sweet!!!!!

[SynergyXJ]

Long Arm Lift Prep

I ordered a 6.5" Long Arm lift kit from Rough Country; along with SYE, driveshaft, tie rod and steering stabilizer.

It came in 13 boxes, the most UPS parcels I've ever gotten in a day!

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_lalift/IMG_0216.jpg


Kit Contents, looks like it should.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_lalift/IMG_0217.jpg


I was feeling in a rush to get started and my only work area is outside and covered in snow. I rented out a 10x20 storage unit to do the work. It's cramped, but definitely workable. I also got half off the first month, and I'm only using it for a month, so not a bad deal for a hard, level surface with a roof and [limited] power. Incidentally, the available unit is the one on the direct other side from the one I already rent. Now that the snow has melted, I have questioned my decision to work in a storage unit, but whatever, the rig is stuck there until I'm done.
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_lalift/IMG_0236.jpg


I painted the parts all crazy style!

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_lalift/IMG_0256.jpg

That was fun. I've played with a rattle can a bit years ago, but this was my first real splatter paint project. I'm pretty satisfied.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_lalift/IMG_0258.jpg


I'm working on the transfer case now, hoping to get some of these radical parts on by this weekend!

[94ToyBear]

sounds like your having a great time with your build ! looking good, the air system is sweet! ill have to look in to something like that on my yota build. you picked some crazy colors, but it will defiantly give it some personality I fully respect that! it nice to see someone go in a different direction and just have fun building!

[SynergyXJ]

Slip Yoke Elimination Challenge

It wasn't really too challenging, but it sounded like an MXC (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MXC) reference so I'm going with it.

The main challenge was removing the front yoke nut. I first tried a ratchet, then an electric impact wrench, then a pneumatic impact wrench, then a breaker bar with a clamp, then finally: 3' angle iron clamped to the yoke with a 6' breaker bar+pipe. That's probably the tightest nut I've ever removed. Assuming I put 80 lbs on the pipe 5' out, it took 400 ft-lbs to remove that nut.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_sye/IMG_0263.jpg
The guy in the Advance Adapters video has a bench with a mount to slide the yoke in to hold it.
If I did this regularly, I'd make one.


Second Challenge is to follow the directions in order. I took it apart out of order and reassembled it reverse of that, and therefore out of order.
I took this picture like "hey look my transfer case is coming together!" then when I put it together, I realized the speedometer gear must go on after it's closed up. So if you're installing an SYE and you get to this point, back up and follow the instructions in order.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_sye/IMG_0265.jpg


The dichotomy of the new parts to the original 15 year old parts is quite noticeable:

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_sye/IMG_0270.jpg



installed, hellz yeah:

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_sye/IMG_0272.jpg

Oh yeah, and the First Challenge was actually to get all 6 transmission-to-tcase nuts off. As you can see in the picture above, I had to cut the exhaust to get one nut. I know it sounds ridiculous to have to cut something to access a nut, but I couldn't figure out another way. I was watching videos of these guys with TJ's and there's a bunch of room, but the XJ doesn't have this room - which is also baffling because the XJ is bigger. Anyway, I got to a point where it would be more efficient to cut it and re-weld it than dick around and continue being frustrated.

[94ToyBear]

Did you remove the cross member to pull the t case ?

[SynergyXJ]

Did you remove the cross member to pull the t case ?

I did remove the cross member. One of the nuts is behind the transmission mount, which is mounted to the cross member.

[94ToyBear]

I use a fine tooth flex ratchet wrench to take to hard ones out. Keep up build, fun to see this un fold

[SynergyXJ]

Oh yeah, a flex ratchet is what my tool box is missing!


The lift installation is nearly complete! Most things are installed but I have a few things left to weld, like the track rod bracket. I managed to drive it, or limp it, slowly back home tonight through neighborhoods. Welcome home! It was dark by the time I finished, but here's this picture from earlier.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_lalift/IMG_0313.jpg


Here's a problem: One of the big bolts going through the front of the driver leaf spring broke off during removal. It was tough, so it soaked in PB blaster overnight and it made at least one full rotation before snapping. I'm planning a coil conversion, so the fix is pseudo-temporary. I've had a few ideas and my favorite is to cut out the stuck bolt, the thread it's in, and a slot on the bottom of the bracket. I'll then make a flag nut to stick up in there.
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_lalift/IMG_0312.jpg

[Hypoid]

Wow, I've never seen one of those break! Usually, the weld nut pops off inside the bracket.

I've had a few ideas and my favorite is to cut out the stuck bolt, the thread it's in,Put a punch on it and whack it with a hammer, done!

[dieseldoc]

Air hammer with a small chisel bit....
I have walked 3/4 bolt for sheer blades.
The sheers I was working on cuts a 8×12 steel I beam In 10 secounds.
700 tool steel with a grade 8 bolt bust off in it.
and sure as **** it can be walked out.....


Lookong realy good man.
I think multiscuf is still lookong to sell his 35's.
he wants to much but I think he would take a grand at this point.

[dscowell]

I'm enjoying this build keep the updates coming:)

[MultiScuf]

Read you message brother XJ :P

[SynergyXJ]

Put a punch on it and whack it with a hammer, done!
I did that at first because I was going to drill it out. Drilling it sucked and I'm glad I stopped.



Air hammer with a small chisel bit....
You mean, like, chisel the bolt on one side to rotate it counter-clockwise and out? It makes sense in theory but I doubt it for a bolt too stuck for two dudes on an 8' double ended breaker bar. It definitely would have been worth a try it if I had an air hammer.

[SynergyXJ]

I went with the most fabricationesque method I could come up with:
-Plasma cut the broken bolt and nut out and a cut square hole around that
-Cut a square of 3/16" plate, drill 5/8" hole
-Weld a nut to the plate
-Weld the plate into the square hole on frame extension


Here's a blurry picture of the repair and the removed scrap. Ran out of shielding gas right as I finished and got a spot of porosity, but I still feel good about it, also considering the plasma cut left a big gap to fill. The way it all fits and bolts together, it can't actually come out even if the weld did break.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_lalift/IMG_0316.jpg




I got the most of it together. Still have a few odds and ends to finish up. I sold my 33's to my friend (pictured) and put his stock rims and ~28's on to go get a set of 35's (not pictured). It was entirely goofy driving around on those tires with a 6.5" lift, kinda squirrely. The 35's ride much better, but I didn't take a picture yet. They also look proportionate.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_lalift/IMG_0317.jpg


Speaking of my friend's rig, he came over to cut/hammer/weld/bondo his wheel wells this week. It's still on 20 year old stock suspension and we're going to put it on my old stuff temporarily until he gets some new lift parts. I'm pretty stoked to have another Jeep to work on but not have to pay for! This probably won't be the last time his rig sneaks into my build.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/timsrig/IMG_0311.jpg



Conclusion: The suspension and steering work is pretty much done. I took it for a test drive and it drove pretty well, it felt better than I expected. However, up in the mountains, the engine started misfiring. Darn. I managed to get back home with occasional misfiring. At least everything I did works! I started reading and diagnosing the misfire and think I have a direction to go in, but more on that later.

[dieseldoc]

Good to hear you got it moving. The repair looks good.
I sure hope I can wheel soon so we can go out with you and see this thing finished!

[SynergyXJ]

Misfire DTC trackdown conundrum

I'm delayed on this post, I know ya'll were on the edge of your seats. I went through a crazy chase of about 8 trouble codes and finally tracked down the cause of the misfire. 10 days ago, I could have walked you through the details, but I'll save it and say the misfire has been solved.

Other rig updates:
- The truck is running pretty well but having some heat issues under sustained load, such as big hill climbs and high speeds. I hope to resolve that by replacing the 15 year old, likely clogged, radiator with a 3 row performance one or something.
- The new lift is not flexing in the front as much as I expected. More research will be conducted.
- Edit: dieseldoc tells me they'll break in and partially because I don't have much weight in the front. I believe it.
- After running my fiberglass fender flares for over 8 years, I decided to go fender-flare-less and took them off.
- I made some new square steel tube rockers.
- x44 (my off road data software) is coming along well.

Fabrication posts coming soon!

[SynergyXJ]

2x5 Square Tube Rockers
Fabrication Pictures!

My first set of rockers were puny and needed an upgrade, then the stock rocker panels began rusting out.
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_rockers/IMG_0376.JPG


Cut it open... Yup, there's more rust. There was even mud in the passenger side.
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_rockers/IMG_0386.JPG



I got some 2"x5"x1/8" wall square tube and welded caps to the ends. I debated a thicker wall and decided on 1/8" and adding 1/8" angle to the outer corner, so it's light but thick where it needs to be. The discs to the left were welded to test out my new Millermatic 211. It works!
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_rockers/IMG_0380.JPG


...welded the tubes in...
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_rockers/IMG_0388.JPG

...
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_rockers/IMG_0395.JPG

Painted and rubberized:
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_rockers/IMG_0396.JPG


I didn't end up welding the angle on. It's still way better than it was. These ones aren't rusted through! There were a bunch of holes where cables mount that could allow water in from the inside in case of flood into the area between the passenger area wall and the rockers (stock design), so I'm planning to fill that with expanding foam. That should displace potential water and prevent future rust.

[SynergyXJ]

schemin'
...color scheming...

Oh yeah, I should have posted this earlier! Here's the inspiration for the color scheme of the suspension and steering components:
(found from Googling "cherokee steering components" or something - http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/front-steering-components-53018/)

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/attachments/f2/22339d1279224316t-front-steering-components-steering-set-up.jpg

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_lalift/IMG_0327.jpg


This way if my spotter doesn't know the parts names, they can say "your sea foam blue thing is on a rock" and I'll know it's my drag link. I've even started thinking of colors as "drag link blue".

[SynergyXJ]

Front "Bumper" and Transmission Cooler

I put bumper in quotes because it's really more of a winch mount than a winch mount bumper. It's just two 3/8"x4" plates to extend the frame and some 1/4"x2" steel angle to mount the winch. My goal was to get the winch as high and tight in as possible to retain as much approach angle as possible. Recently, my fabrication projects have been totally in my head, no sketch or anything, but I did CAD this up in SolidWorks to see how tight in I could get it. Of course, some front grill trimming is needed to get it really in there.

After burning some tranny fluid (and being able to recognize that smell), I put a transmission cooler in as well. Since I was trimming the grill, this was the time to do it. Project double up.


Pseudo Test Fit:

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_frontbump/IMG_0458.jpg



SolidWorks Model:
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_frontbump/cadmodel.jpg



I tried to take a picture while I was plasma cutting, but it was hard.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_frontbump/IMG_0465.jpg



Here are the "frame extenders" - 3/8" plate plasma cut to size. This will bolt to the frame then eventually be welded. You'll also note the shackle holes. I stacked up some scrap 3/8" plate on both sides for a total of 9/8" thick, then drilled a 1" hole.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_frontbump/IMG_0467.jpg



Shackle Test Fit (excess 3/8 plate will be trimmed)

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_frontbump/IMG_0472.jpg



All welded up and transmission cooler is partially plumbed. I may route the hose differently, I dunno.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_frontbump/IMG_0475.jpg


Then I painted the winch and bolted that mug on.
Jah Winch! (we be tuggin ya irie, mon)
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_frontbump/IMG_0509.jpg


And then I didn't take a good picture when I was on the trail testing it. But I will take a good picture.



The winch has been on for almost a week and has been involved in 5 recoveries between 3 trucks. Seems like it's still snowy on the trails.

[dieseldoc]

Looks good Evan.
So is this a secound winch? Or is it te one from the back, repurpoused?

[EKXJ87]

Looks great Evan :thumb: Its a complete rebuild from the last time I saw your XJ, lift,tires new rocker,bumpers

[SynergyXJ]

@EKXJ87 - Thanks man! I've been meaning to hit you up, let's run a trail sometime soon.

@dieseldoc (et alia) - This is the winch from the back. I was tired of that thing sticking out the back of my rig, catching rocks, finally bent the fairlead up some. I have a better angle with it in the front, but I may move it back to the back after I chop the top (the back hatch was the limiting factor keeping the winch out and low).

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_frontbump/IMG_0456label.jpg



Approach Angles - 54° to the winch mounts and 65° to the stock front without stock bumper, a substantial difference! I'm not sure where it would have been with the stock bumper, but I would guess it would be pretty close to the 54° mark.
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_frontbump/approachangles.jpg

[EKXJ87]

CHOP THE TOP :eek: :eek: should I dare ask what your plans are?
I'm about 99% done with my XJ changes for the year so I'm ready to run some trails once they open.

[Java]

Engineers always have the most detailed build threads. :thumb: Nice welding!

[SynergyXJ]

@Paul - Haha, yeah we do (see below). We're also more likely to include CAD drawings. Thanks!

@EKXJ87 - Plans? Ha! I'm going to draw a line and cut then figure out what to do next.


In all seriousness, I have put a lot of thought into the project. Although most of the process will be a do some then figure out what to do next, I do have grandiose ideas for the whole thing. Off road utility and organization are at the core of the development.

Reasons to chop:
- Rear passenger quarter panel area keeps getting smashed and needs body work anyway
- Inside/Outside area [electronics inside / spare tire & gas outside, etc.]
- Future electronics projects are dependent on the above
- Reduce back top corner area that hits things
- Room to raise gas tank (clearance and access, integrate skid plate)
- No back hatch -> the rear winch can go back without sticking way out the back
- Rear window being closer results in increased viewing angle
- The back hatch is the only part of the XJ I don't like (aesthetically)
- I currently have the time available for a consuming project and I'm totally obsessed with build projects, I don't even have a choice. I HAVE TO!

General Plans:
- Move the back hatch up to the C pillar and weld in place, retaining rear window and wiper
- Remove ~3' of middle of headliner
- Partial cage around and above the new truck bed area (on the way to a full cage)
- Trim quarter panel area, taper in
- Move lights horizontal and more centered, use recessed LEDs
- Raised floor above raised gas tank
- Spare tire mount above gas tank
- Equipment and air compressor boxes


Status Update: I have everything out of the rig, back hatch off, rear windows out. Probably cutting tomorrow.

[dieseldoc]

Under the knife again....
not like we can go play much....
All the north trails are snowed in still.

[SynergyXJ]

@dieseldoc - best wishes, man, we'll get out and play soon.

Winch Control Hijack [part 1]

You have probably noticed those boxes on the top on nearly every winch out there. You may not have noticed that I've never had a box on mine. I dislike them for no legitimate reason, perhaps aesthetics. My box was inside the trunk in my last rear-winch setup.

With the new front winch setup, I have no idea where to put this thing. It's way too big to fit anywhere in the engine compartment and I really don't want it anywhere outside. I planned on putting it back in my electronics area, but then I'd need three 10 foot runs of 2 ga wire. So I opened it up and the actual contactor is about 1/5th the volume of the enclosure. Just mounting the important part will be much easier. Then while I'm at it, might as well hijack the controls!


Small relay in a big box:
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_frontbump/IMG_0490.jpg


Mounted the relay on the top of the firewall:
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_frontbump/IMG_0493.jpg


Control connector on the top of the grill, easy to access near the winch:
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_frontbump/IMG_0495.jpg




Next plans (part 2) are to wire a winch control center on my dashboard. This will include an in and out push button and the receiver for the wireless remote.



Status Update: I have started cutting and welding the chop top! Pictures coming soon.

[dieseldoc]

Its amazing how mqny floks dont relize they can have remote in cab controls.
the relay/solinids is what hadles the heavy loads....
you will like in cab controls for sure.

[dscowell]

Shweet! I envy your solid works talent.

[SynergyXJ]

Chop Chop!!

I started chopping! Big things. I'm pretty stoked on how it's coming out.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_choptop/IMG_0564.jpg



Wanna see something crazy? When you plasma cut steel backed by fiberglass insulation, this happens.
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_choptop/IMG_0566.jpg
crazy stuff
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_choptop/IMG_0568.jpg
I put the insulation in 10 years ago. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I tried to get it out before cutting, but apparently some was still in there.


Trimmed up the back hatch and welded it in:
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_choptop/IMG_0573.jpg

Cut scrap slivers to weld in the gaps
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_choptop/IMG_0572.jpg



More to come (lots of work left)....

[dieseldoc]

Looking good man.
I sure hope you have a bucket of water around when you plaz.....hate to see you burn up.

[SynergyXJ]

@dieseldoc - Do you mean water to put out fires ignited by shooting vaporized steel at flammable things behind the cut? I've never really had issues with fires before this project and this time was because I had an asphalt based sound dampener on the sheet steel and that stuff flamed like a small flame thrower - literally 2 foot flames. I've never seen that before with plasma. I kept a spray bottle around after seeing that.


Chop Update

I mentioned this back passenger corner always gets nailed into obstacles. So I cut it all out. Cage tube will go in this area.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_choptop/IMG_0583.jpg


Cut a chunk of roof out to close up the back. I'm not sure why so much of the hatch got cut off, but we'll fill it in.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_choptop/IMG_0586.jpg


I took it out on the street today! I'm at least a week or two from completion, but great progress.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_choptop/IMG_0594-600.jpg

[Java]

This is awesome! Can't wait to see the finished product. A little off topic, how do you like your Cooper tires? I need to replace my duratracs soon and I've been thinking about those- I met a Ranger at McInnis Canyons that ran those on her truck, she had winches front and rear and a highlift on her trailer that looked like it had been to war. She said those tires were the best she had ever run, both for the nasty mud out there and winter streets.

[ILuvtheMountains]

I was going back to ask about your tires too, are they the ST-MAXX MT?

great job on a very useful, practical, well-thought-out build too!!!

[dieseldoc]

Nice comp cut work there Evan.
ya I was talking about fire prevention.
It looks good man.
One of the better looking comp cut and cab cuts I have seen on an XJ.

We hope you are finished soon so we can get out and wheel.

[SynergyXJ]

Thanks guys!

@Paul and NativeTaco - I'm glad you guys asked about the tires - I strongly dislike them! I too have heard good things about Coopers, but that must be "good for on road longevity" or something as these tires are awful in snow and mud. No problems on rock or road. They are the Cooper Discoverer S/T MAXX (I don't see an "M/T", maybe that's what I'm missing). The 33x12.50 Hercules Trail Diggers I had before were way better and I'd go back if I could.

I'm thinking about getting a tire groover and going to town on it. Or try the angle grinder chain saw thing, which sounds unsafe. And on the safety note:

@dieseldoc - I like to think that I run a pretty safe shop :thumb: If nothing else, I am a PPE enthusiast with my eyes, ears and lungs covered most of the time. Plus I haven't welded drunk in years! There were a few years after college that I drank a lot and welded scrap metal sculptures:

http://evanbeloni.com/art/helices/100627-004.jpg
http://evanbeloni.com/art/caterpillar/IMG_0333c.jpg
more: http://evanbeloni.com/art/


I'll be done pretty soon and we'll go run some trails! I'm itching to get out and somewhat regretting starting this project when I did. Whatever, I'll finish it soon and just keep it to weekday projects for the rest of the summer.

Still to do: Remove gas tank to weld rear cage tie-ins. Weld up back area cage, spare tire mount and rear bumper (w/tail lights). Install gas tank. Wire lights. Go wheeling. I do need to attend to the front axle soon, but hopefully that will be a weekday project.

[dieseldoc]

Good work going on for sure.
how is the welding with the thin body material?

[SynergyXJ]

@dieseldoc - The thin material hasn't been too bad on the new Miller machine, but I'm still doing a lot of pulsing in areas to minimize the burn-through.

A Massive Roadblock

...has been hit and is stopping me from doing what I want. When I got this Jeep in 2003, I was big into car audio and covered the entire interior with sound dampener, an off brand version of Dynamat. This material is basically asphalt lined aluminum foil and when it gets hot, the tar melts and oozes out onto everything in the rig. It's been causing issues for years and I've tried getting it off with heat, scrapers, acetone, underbody remover, etc., I just can not get this stuff off. With it stuck on every piece of metal in the rig, my metal fab tasks are seriously restricted. I'm tired of dealing with this high school era mistake and ready to just buy a new rig and never put asphalt in it.

Anyway, as far as this build, I'm coming to a stopping point based in frustration. I'm finishing out the chop and rear cage, but I think that's it. Getting on XJ shopping sometime this summer.


added: Furthermore, I attribute this asphalt for weighing down my truck. The rig weighed in at 4,450 lbs which is over 1,000 lbs above stock curb weight! Summing the oversized tires, winch and additional steel, I still have several hundred pounds unaccounted for. I bet it has to do with the 1/8" layer of asphalt lining the rig plus gallons of truck bed liner and latex paint trying to cover it up. So, yeah, I should start over fresh. The sound dampener did work great for damping sound though!

Plus, if I buy a new XJ then I'll have a backup and won't miss trail rides because my Jeep is still ripped apart again.

[SynergyXJ]

Cage-to-Frame Tie-Ins

Attempting to work around the asphalt situation, I continue work on the cage, which has been partially designed and built.
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_cage/RearCagePrelim.jpg

Cage Tie-Ins: Again I'm working around this asphalt, so I'm basically bolting a 3/16" plate through the body panel and around the frame to a mating length of 3/16" angle that is welded to the sub frame. See below:

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_cage/IMG_0626.jpg
...attached to...
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_cage/IMG_0634.jpg



Ya'll remember that melting tar from the asphalt that I mentioned? I thought would get nice clean welds to the un-damped sub-frame, but no. Here it is showing it's nastyness again:
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_cage/IMG_0649c.jpg

[xaza]

oh that looks like a nasty mess, good luck. Have you tried fire? If it is that oily it should burn, and the residue might grind off better. Watch out for dripping running fire balls though. I had wanted to chop my XJ like that originally, I really like the way they look chopped. I don't recall if I said so before but I really like the unique way you have painted suspension components. Look forward to seeing more.

[EKXJ87]

Ive been out of town for only a week and look what you have done Evan, Nice Work :thumb: I like it


Plus, if I buy a new XJ then I'll have a backup and won't miss trail rides because my Jeep is still ripped apart again.[/QUOTE]
I'm LMOA over this as I heard the same voice's in my head in Dec and bought another 87-XJ as a back up as not to miss the 2015 wheeling season with my current rig.

[Java]

that sucks. you could take the doors off to cut weight...

[SynergyXJ]

@xaza - Thanks, man. I haven't directly tried fire, but when I was plasma cutting it burnt big time. I bet you're right that fire would work, but I don't want to deal with a huge petrochemical fire inside my jeep.

@EKXJ87 - Awesome! Have you started building the new rig yet?

@Paul - haha, right...

Tail Light Boxes and Cage Progress

I made some new beefy light boxes with sheet steel. Way better than the plastic stock lights. LED trailer lights that will go in these. I also made a fifth wheel! Well, it's a spare tire mount but that's kind of like a fifth wheel, too.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_cage/IMG_0674.jpg



I found a HFT pipe bender on Craigslist and got to bending. The main surround is 2" OD, 0.120 wall that I cut and welded. All the other tubing pictured is 1.5" OD, 0.120 wall that I bent. The angle iron based spare mount is a lot of wasteful steel, but the asphalt situation got in the way again (from doing things completely differently back there). Yes, the rear cross supports are off center. That is intentional and will make sense when I'm done.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_cage/IMG_0694.jpg



Alright, enough forum bs, I'm going back to the garage!

[dieseldoc]

Looking good man. Leaves lots of room for gear.....
so is your solar panel still going to fit on this thing??

[Brucker]

First off, I don’t know if I have said this yet, but GREAT build! Love the DIY and you are making some serious progress on a project that even some professionals won’t do. My hat’s off to you sir.
So are you planning on ever having to use the rear tubing structure as a safety device, or is it just for looks and helping to secure tools, etc? If you are wanting to use it as a safety device, may I offer a couple tips? If your answer is “no”, then please skip over the rest of this.Please don’t be offended by anything I write here. Normally I would just skip over certain threads and keep my mouth shut. Especially since I own a fab shop, and people like to take things out of context, so usually not being very vocal can be a good thing. But this forum is a tight knit community within the larger ‘wheeling and off road scene. So I thought I should take the time to try and help pass along whatever knowledge I may have. I would hate to see someone from here get hurt or damage their vehicle, just because I didn’t want to take the time to speak up. You don’t have to agree with it or even listen to any of it. But I feel I must say something.1) While I am always for finding a deal on tooling and equipment, I would shy away from the HFT pipe bender for any tube work you want to do. There are a couple issues with them that make them less than ideal. They are designed for bender pipe and not tube. It is not a mandrel bender or even offer mandrel dies. So the pipe/tube will actually kink and distort at each bend, yes even with the tube completely packed full of sand, creating a weak area instead of holding its shape and strength like a true mandrel bend. You may want to check out some lower priced mandrel tubing benders instead. Like one from Low Buck Tools, or even build your own around a popular die manufacturer die set. There are plenty of plans out there on the ‘ol interwebs if you decide to go that route. 2) I noticed that there are sections of the round tubing that are butt welded together. Are they just butt welded together? Or do they have well fitted inner sleeves in them that span between each section? When building cages and roll bars, mandrel bends are usually going to be stronger than a butt welded joint. But if a well fitted sleeve is used, that section of tubing can actually be stronger than the rest. This could be good or bad, depending on each different circumstance. 3) The less bends, the stronger the structure. While I am all for adding a little flair to my work, straight runs of tubing will always be stronger than a preformed tube in the same spot. Unless extra gusseting and/or tube work is used in conjunction. But over building or more structure is not always a good thing. It adds more weight which will cause more stresses. And then you need to design around those as well. It also adds more heat into the metalwork, which is not a good thing either. 4) Looks like you are welding this all directly to the body. If you haven’t, you may consider adding in some bolts that connect the base plates through the body to some other shear plates. When welding directly to the body, often you are only able to weld the top layer of sheet metal to the tube work. This could lead to early fatigue in the weld joint and cause tearing when things flex. But when you bolt through the body in a couple different places, it will pinch all the different layers of sheet metal together. Creating a nice, sturdy anchor point that transfers all the stress loads out more evenly. I honestly hope that this helps. Not trying to step on your toes. I think you have done a good job thus far. Keep up the good work. And if you ever want to ask advice, feel free to ask on here or even PM me or call the shop. Worst I am going to say is, sorry, I am too busy at the moment to chat.

[dieseldoc]

Aaron- all very good points you bring up.
I belive Even has some pics showing plate and bolts for his cage work.
I totaly agree with you on the bender issue. kinked tude will fail not a question of if its totaly a when. Thus why I realy want a JD2 model 2 with a 5.5x180*
the next point about gussets....these are so important to be placed right. Most folks put them right in the high point of the tube joint, so knife edged in the center....wrong! these should be on the outer edge laying on the joint thus spreading the load vs. creating a pinch point when loaded from a roll.
Spliced joint as well are most folks failing spot as they just but things and weld, sleeves are so important sleeve them and do weld them in place drill holes in your tubes before sleeving so they will stay put. leave a gap at the joint the sixe of your wire is a good guide. this lets your weld penitrat the sleeve and the tubes you are butting together.

I think Even has done some good work here.

[EKXJ87]

Nice work Evan! Glad to see your continuing on as with all builds you sometimes just have to step back drink a craftbeer/:smokin:oreos and take a break if fab work was easy everyone would be doing it. I dig that you keep the rear wiper and now will have to wait for why the bars are off set.

[dieseldoc]

To clear the wiper?? Maybe

[SynergyXJ]

@Brucker - By all means, Aaron, I'm always accepting advice from people with more or different experience(s) than myself, thank you. I have considered some of this:

0) The cage is somewhat a structural safety device, but it is more of a practice run than anything. I've had this rig for 12 years and haven't rolled it and I don't plan on it. On second thought, when I build out a new rig and this is the backup, I may intentionally roll it for the experience and a test. This truck is now a trail technology experiment (guinea rig) and a splatter paint canvas.

1) You're totally right about the mandrel style bender versus the pipe bender kinking. I've bent on a mandrel based machine and it worked much better than this and now that you mention it, it's pretty obvious why my tubes kinked easily. That's why those big back tubes are bent in like 5 places - because I couldn't go farther without kinking. I do know the sand trick but I didn't feel like messing with sand. And realistically, if it kinks at 10 or 15°, sand isn't going to help that much. A mandrel bender is in order, thanks for reminding me.

2) The butt welds are not sleeved. That is a technique I have used before but did not implement for this. I'll keep that in mind for my next cage.

3) Straight tubes are definitely better, but just doesn't work sometimes. On those back rounds, I simply could not get a straight tube to touch the top of the cage and the rear tie points. Overall though, I feel good about those tubes once they're interconnected how I have it visualized. If I rolled it right now, those big tubes would fold in and pull the main support right over resulting in more frame damage than before. On the note of visualizing, I am good at visualizing (like a mental Finite Element Analysis) stresses from loads and how they disperse (and fluid mechanics & heat transfer, too). I'll thank engineering school homework and years of CFD/FEA work for that. I do like the idea of actually running structural FEA on my next rig's cage design, that way I can really put metal only where it's needed and keep it much lighter. Play with tube positions & angles and vary OD's and thicknesses, etc... That will be an awesome cage. I'm also going to use aluminum for accessory mounts, like the spare, next time. I'm feeling pretty comfortable in the aluminum welding learning curve.

4) The cage is tied in through the sheet metal to the frame, as dieseldoc pointed out (see post #44 (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?22862-SynergyXJ-Re-Build&p=287057#post287057)). In retrospect, I should have used longer sections for the lower angle irons, but whatever.


@dieseldoc -
-The solar panel is going back on, that's part of the reason for the off-center rear supports.
-I totally agree with both of you guys on the bender situation. You let me know when you get that JD2 :thumb:
-For the gussets, are you talking about this:
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_cage/gussetdrawing.jpg
Where the method on the right is what you recommend, right? Probably a little easier for fitment (more slop tolerance) and it allows putting one on each side, perhaps of a thinner gauge. Overall, I like that design! Easier to fab and stronger? Double win. I am planning on gusseting whenever I fab the front end of the cage. At this point, it's not roll safe anyway so gussets won't do much.


@EKXJ87 - Thanks man! I love fab work, so I'm not stressing myself out too much. Plus I have real work I'm trying to fit in, so inherent breaks. The tubes are offset for the solar panel, nothing too exciting. The panel goes right to the centerline of the roof, so the cage beam that will cross over the roof will be offset a few inches, so the vertical supports are slightly shifted to target their added support near the off-center center tube.

Thanks for the input guys!

[dieseldoc]

Evan- yes the guset on the right side of your drawing is what I was meaning.
NASCAR tested the guset placement issue a few years back and has mandated that they be in that location. They found huge changes in strength. And huge damage difference.

I will for sure let you know when I get the bender. Steve will let you use his as well.

Now you get that thing trail ready so we can go play....

Side note for you- after a big hike and some ?? Of clubs and other off roaders the section of hackett we have tryed is jeep trail, but none realy run it as the gountlet is set.
I think some stretch and lift is due for me for sure!

[SynergyXJ]

@dieseldoc - That gusset design makes so much sense. What I've envisioned is rooted in what I've seen in existing cages, so I defaulted to the inner gusset. However, the outside gusset is obviously superior and I have used it in previous, unrelated designs for that reason. Look at gusset plates on bridges and other structural applications, they're all fastened to the outside of the I-beams (which also just works well with the geometry of I-beams). Thanks for the reminder. I'm absolutely going outside. Complacency kills.


The rig is ready to go! the guinea rig...
I'm totally not done, but I'm done with the big stuff, I think I can finish the rest as "weekday projects". The gas tank is back in, so there's that.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_cage/IMG_0707.jpg

See that WRX in the background? That's the dd :D

So yeah, the cage is gold. The top half is lime green, the bottom is orange and I spilled a bunch of black paint in other places. I'm not sure why I make the color decisions that I do. Apparently, I am a tetrachromat, so I definitely do comprehend the colors I'm using. Here are some more colors:

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_cage/IMG_0701.jpg

I was going to just test out the "Key Lime Green" and "Orange" scheme, then I got carried away and started throwing some paint.

I need to make a truck box to cover the air compressor. I duck taped a trash bag over it for the moment. I have some 16ga AL treadplate I plan to shear up and rivet in.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_cage/IMG_0711.jpg


The interior is ripped apart and the wires are a freaking mess, as moving the rear hatch up results in a nest of stock wires. Some need to be extended, but most are way longer than they need to be. Imagine the rear wiper power that goes half way around the rear window perimeter, through a gasket to the hatch seal by the roof, off the roof and down the D pillar and over the wheel well. Now the wiper is right next to the wheel well and there's 8 feet of wire tangling with other examples of this mess. Machines with messy wiring drive me nuts, so I'll most likely rip it all out and re-organize/re-wire it.


Summary of today's post is that I am ready to hit the trails!
Seriously, next weekend, let's go run something. Or next week, whenever. ASAP.

[SynergyXJ]

Oh by the way...

"It's my birthday, I can weld something crazy if I want to."
(since the Jeep is out of the garage...)
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2015_cage/IMG_0722.jpg
Instagram: @evanbeloni
(Celebrating tomorrow...)

F that HFT pipe bender in the background...

[dieseldoc]

Happy Birthdat to you, Happy Birthday to you, Happy Birthday dear Evan, Happy Birthday to you!!! Hope you have a great day. Therese.

[dieseldoc]

Looks good for sure.
glad you got it done.
I will let you know how the week goes if we can feed the jeep to go play this weekend we should go play on some of the now open trails.

Happy birthday man. Enjoy and have fun.

[SynergyXJ]

Thanks Therese :)

"Something Crazy" completed. It's a duckbilled succulent planter, or something.
http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/trailpics/150614_ironclads/IMG_0783.jpg

[SynergyXJ]

Test Run with Excessive Carnage

I took the rig up with two other XJs for a little test run and camping. We said we'd just take it easy, as all three had some kind of limiting issue.
(This post is really for pictures of the semi-completed project)

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/trailpics/150614_ironclads/IMG_0724.jpg

It's going pretty smoothly, then rig #3 smashes out the rear window (which is unrelated to the following picture of rig #1)

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/trailpics/150614_ironclads/IMG_0741.jpg

Coming back down from where the window smash happens, I'm getting near a tree and realize it's going to take my side mirror off. It did, and also cracked the front windshield a bit. Cracks continue to propagate. Another unrelated picture:

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/trailpics/150614_ironclads/IMG_0751.jpg

We get back to camp and I smell gear oil. Sure enough, my rear diff cover plug popped out. How does this happen? I don't know. I lost a bit of oil and couldn't find the plug. Later in the night, I stumble across the plug! In the morning, I refill the diff and replace the plug. I'm glad I had gear oil with me, never thought I'd actually need it on the trail.

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/trailpics/150614_ironclads/IMG_0772.jpg

We hit another trail in the morning then decide to call it a day. Or maybe we'll run another trail, it's only early afternoon. We ran another trail. Coming down a steep, narrow pass, rig #3 breaks the pitman arm. Just cracked it right off the steering box. We try to pull it up to the main trail to fix it, but the tires are sideways and there isn't anything we're going to do about it. We decide to try battery welding the arm to the output shaft just to get to the trailhead. I drove back to my house in Arvada to get welding supplies and my old, damaged pitman arm just in case. The old pitman arm went on moderately well over the stripped output shaft splines, good enough to get off the trail. Related picture:

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/trailpics/150614_ironclads/IMG_0791.jpg

While I'm running errands, rig #2 turns around to get ready to fix rig #3 and plops it on a stump, bending the tie rod pretty far. I don't even know about this until about 8 or 9pm when we're finally recovered and back on the trailhead. The tierod is bent so far the tires are toed in and squeeking and clacking all over the road, we have to do something about it. Yet another trip back to Arvada to get fix supplies from my house, this time the HF pipe bender to straighten the tie rod and my old tie rod. We get back and bend the tie rod enough to get it off and put my old rod on around midnight, nearly 10 hours of carnage later than planned. Although we had two rigs totally disabled, we were able to fix both of them using scrap parts from my rig sitting in my back yard. The moral of the story is to keep all your old parts around, I guess. And don't go on the last run after you're inclined to stop. That's when everything seems to go downhill. Last unrelated picture:

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/trailpics/150614_ironclads/IMG_0775.jpg

Carnage Summary:
Rig #1 - Cracked windshield, removed passenger side mirror
Rig #2 - Bent tie rod, undriveable toe-in condition, and the typical beat the crap out of it
Rig #3 - Smashed out rear window, cracked pitman arm, no steer condition

[Brucker]

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/trailpics/150614_ironclads/IMG_0775.jpg


Good to hear you all had fun, but sorry to hear of the carnage. Though the photo above really offends me. I hope this is on private property. If it's not, I hope that the trail leads straight up that face, or that is considered off the trail. Too many people think it's ok to do stuff like this, or take poser flex shots while on a rock that's not part of the defined trail. That is not treading lightly, or staying the trail. Please don't continue this behavior or post such photos. It gives all off roaders a bad name. If this is private property, please disregard above.

[SynergyXJ]

@Brucker - I fully believe in Tread Lightly, staying on trail and overall minimizing erosion and human impact. Similarly, I understand the impact that posting heavy-treading pictures has on the entire off-road community. I do not consider where I was to be off trail, the fact that you bring it up immediately as potential off-trail situation introduces my own concern of what is considered trail.

When a numbered road widens from single track to a 30 foot wide trail, is all of the 30' wide trail fair game? Can one play on rocks in the middle and on the edge of that 30'? How far can one go on rocks that are half on-trail and half off-trail? Half way, I presume.

Sometimes people avoid obstacles by going off trail and around it. I denounce this behavior, but when it happens for years, that side trail wears in to trail like depth. Years later when I get to this trail and the side trail is worn in enough to confuse which was the original trail from the side trail, is it still going off trail to take that new route or is it just part of the trail now (even though it should have never been worn in)?

Regardless, if erosion and human impact are the primary factors in treading lightly, then at the very least I did not cause measurable erosion to that rock and really the human impact I'm most concerned with was dripping gear oil, which I did clean as best as I could. Most certainly, if I am in the wrong, it is not because I need to learn respect for staying on the trail nor why/how to minimize my impact.

Furthermore, we say "stay on trail" but we make no distinction between surface. Going off trail in dirt, rutting it out, taking out trees is absolutely unacceptable. I'm not saying it's okay to go off trail if the surface is hard, but if one were to stay entirely on hard rock surface, it would be virtually undetectable. I am incredibly conscious of the environmental impact of my actions in all aspects of my life - everything from driving over rocks to considering the impact from materials, mining, manufacturing and transportation of the everyday items and food I buy. Again, I'm not justifying going off trail, I am questioning if I was off trail and making it clear that I am aware of human impact.

That all being said, I don't want to downplay your concern, as it is valid especially in light of the recent China Wall closure.

I'm curious to ask other people's opinions of various trail options when we're out and I see a questionable route. For now, I'll pull the picture down.

[dieseldoc]

dam Evan sounds like you have the same issue my buddy Vic in Utah....Vic's back yard special kept my Sami running for many months and cleaned out his yard....cant beat free.95

[SynergyXJ]

Whoa buddy, 3-1/2 years later, it's time for some more build posts! Not only have I built some good stuff on this XJ, I've added two more XJ's and an F-350 to my vehicle collection [plus a 2012 WRX, I'm up to 5 ;) ] Might take several posts over several days to get my build thread back up to speed.

Regearing:

I regeared to 4.88 with a set of Motive Gears back in May of 2016 and I only took one picture. Here it is:

http://evanbeloni.com/4wd/xjbuildpics/2016_ojregear/regear.jpg