1989 4Runner - 1uz V8 build

[DoctorDuke]

Alright. Finally getting things together and ready to start an actual build thread.

Quick background on me - long time Toyota fan and 4runner enthusiast. I've had a lot of trucks and 4runners over the years, but settled down a while back to start a practice and family. I'm mostly looking forward to taking my girls out on easy to moderate trails from here to Moab. Safety and reliability are strange new concepts for be on a build, but it is a must now so I'll be taking those into consideration more.

I had a been talking about looking for some sort of project car or truck for a while and warned my wife that if something falls in my lap I'd get it. As much as I love the 4runner, especially 1st generations they are getting harder and harder to find at decent prices and conditions unfortunately.

Walking over to the local king supers I hear the distinct sound of an exhaust leak and the sweet smell of a bad head gasket as this beauty pull up.
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_3816.JPG

The perfect mix of junk and potential. I strike up a conversation with the kid about it and get to talking about the obvious and not so obvious issues - him and his brother just got it running again after it sat a couple of years with his suspended license - blah blah blah.

I make a stupid low ball offer to take it of his hands as is so he doesn't have to bother fixing things.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_3850.JPG

So it made it back to my garage that afternoon. It ran really well technically, but without any power. The fluids where all fresh, like that morning replaced - so they looked good. Exhaust leak could have been doing it, possible the transmission solenoids where stuck or bad, suspected a little head-gasket leak based on the smell, but not bad enough to smoke or mix the fresh fluids.

Did a quick tune getting idle and timing back together with some new plugs as the others looked original and it ran beautifully smooth... with no power. Compression test was an even 100psi dry and 120 wet across all 4 - which is odd to be to be that low on all 4. Probably the head gasket. It's always the head gasket on these things.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_3951.JPG

Dang it.... The head gasket looks... new.. dun dun dun.. Well.. must be the timing chain guide broke and rubbed through the timing cover.... Nope. Those cylinder walls look pretty shiny... Guess it is rebuild time.

And that's where trouble began. Things where not looking right from that point on. Missing bolts inside the cover. RTV everywhere... no gaskets at all, just RTV on everything globed and gooey everywhere. The oil drained and came out in stages, clean, dirty, coolant. Coolant came out Green, Red, Milkshake. Timing chain and guide was in good shape - the cover has be welded up after the previous chain wore through. It was done badly and not even ground down, let alone machined flat. I'm not giving up that easy, a 22re rebuild is fun and just another opportunity to buy new parts and do it right.

Every piston had broken rings. Right down the middle. Never seen it before - but the non-broken ones looked good... they looked... new. Clean the carbon build up off the piston and they are stamped 0.5mm This block was already rebuilt and bored 0.02" over.

This poor little 22re block has seen it's last mile. It was abused and rebuilt bad. I'm sure it was a good little engine back in the 90s. I'm sure the passage ways are clogged with rtv and the damage to the block from those broken rings - well I wasn't even going to bother having a machinist look.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4073.JPG


So I started looking for a new block because I already had my head in the 22re cloud and ordered a few parts anticipating a simple rebuild. I made a post looking for a review of a shop in Colorado Springs (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?23239-APR-Auto-in-CO-Springs-feedback-and-opinions&p=287027#post287027) and DieselDoc made the recommendation to go JDM and suggested something like the inline six 7m-ge - and it was a bit of an epiphany. This is natures way of telling me this build needs to be more.

The 7m-ge is an awesome little motor, and the 3rz sounded tempting for a powerful little 4cycl.

But then like a ray of light from heaven the divine wheeler brought me the answer. 1uz-fe

So I found and bought this guy last week.
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/Picture%20073.jpg

Well, not that one. The one i got was stuck between a bunch of other wrecked cars so I couldn't get a picture but it looks the same and isn't a salvage.


So now I just need to do everything else.

I'm starting with parting out the sc400 and some leftover 22re goodies.
Moving onto building a custom wiring harness.
Pull the engine and do normal tune up gasket like things.
Need to convert the a430e lexus trans to a a430f at least to keep the chain drive transfer case
Maybe go with an aw4 jeep tail housing and a dana 300 xcase or atlas to get better gearing later.
engine mounts and cross member
radiator and fan (sc400 hydro fan won't fit)
most likely do the solid axle at the same time to help fit the beast in there. (i've heard a front sump and pan from the ls400 will work with ifs but i'll do the sas eventually anyway)
exhaust (sc400 has 2 cats and 4 mufflers 4 o2 sensors)

I hope to keep an actual build thread going here. I've been notoriously bad about it in the past. :lmao:

[Chris]

Nice project Doc, should we expect seeing you on a run in the couple weeks? :D

[DoctorDuke]

Nice project Doc, should we expect seeing you on a run in the couple weeks? :D

Afraid not.. I have to clean the garage to make room so it will take at least three weeks. :lmao:

I'd love to have it on the road by the end of the year, but it really depends on how much time and money the wife lets me get away with spending on it. :tisktisk:

[Brucker]

Right awn! A very familiar build! I happen to have a low mileage SC400 sitting in my lot waiting for me to use it as a donor. The fully dressed all aluminum V8 motor being something like only 30 pounds heavier (26-28 I believe) than the stock cast iron 22RE and puts out almost 2.5 times the HP and torque. Gotta love those numbers.

I will be interested to see what you end up running for the trans and tcase. The stock auto sucks up so much power. SO swapping to the 5 speed kinda seems like a decent option since it isn't a buggy. Then the Tcase options can be interesting too. Do you spend the money and just run the Atlas and call it good with a single Toy case. Or swap in n older set of toy cases for a doubler. I can make up my mind so I am interested to see which route you take.

Good luck with the build!

[Patrolman]

Should be a nice build! It is on my personal to-do list eventually. Personally I opted to go with the 3rz option for my 86 truck. Your 4Runner will certainly run away from my truck.

[DoctorDuke]

Right now the plan is to use a 1995-1997 t-100 auto tail housing extension housing and transfer case to make it easy and a little cheaper. Problem is I can't seem to find one easily, but maybe once I actually start hitting the yards myself it'll happen. It is my understanding they are are the only a340F with passenger side drop. All the other a340F are drivers side which isn't ideal with toy front axels, but I have a set of dana 44s available to me that are driver side diff, might make it easier to find. I could use any old a340F tail housing and an adapter and some other xcase, but then I could just use an aw4 jeep tail housing and dana 300 or atlas.

I'd like to keep the auto for sure. The inchworm adapter is too expensive in my opinion, as much as the 4runner and the sc400... Going 5spd looks like a pain and is even more expensive anyway.

I also wouldn't worry about losing too much power. The sc400 a340e is a world different from the 4runner's a430h - for being the same transmission. The gearing is better and low (although I can't recall off the top of my head, I know it is even lower than the a340e that is in the ls400). The tuner/drift community doing these swaps with forced induction and everything aren't complaining too much about it.

You are just down the street from me so you'll have to come up and check it out and we can help each other out. Heck, with your machine shop you might be able to make your own dang adapter for the transfer case.

[DoctorDuke]

Your 4Runner will certainly run away from my truck.

I'm kind of hoping it will run away from a lot of cars and trucks. :steer:

Especially while it is stock looking. Talk about a sleeper - busted up rusty old 4runner smoking tires and pulling on modern sports cars.

The 3rz option is a good one. A lot harder to find and more expensive right now it seems. Seems like they where not as popular around here and/or salvage ones are getting picked up too quick.

[Brucker]

I also wouldn't worry about losing too much power. The sc400 a340e is a world different from the 4runner's a430h - for being the same transmission. The gearing is better and low (although I can't recall off the top of my head, I know it is even lower than the a340e that is in the ls400). The tuner/drift community doing these swaps with forced induction and everything aren't complaining too much about it.


Most research I have found shows that swapping in a 5 speed is more common than keeping the auto. Though most of the information I have been surfing through is from overseas. So maybe that's is the difference. The Aussies have been using this motor in swaps for a while now, and there is some good stuff out there for them down there.

Stock the 1UZ-FE only puts out 250 HP and about 250 ftlb's. And the A340E is supposed to suck up to something stupid like 25% of the power. And while that sure beats the old 22RE's, it is nothing as compared with a V8 from today. Hence why I would probably swap in a manual. But I am probably going to end up using it in a small, lightweight buggy, and my preference is for an auto while driving a tube chassis. I already have a swap kit sitting on the shelf, as I had purchased it long before I ever dreamed of getting my CNC gantry mill and plasma table up and running. Once that is in play, a whole new world of options opens up though...

Another route I am considering is adding a turbo, maybe even compounds. Some people have been making great amounts of reliable power out of stock 1UZ motors by just adding a little boost. They then just add in a programmable piggy back system, then dyno tune it. And man, wouldn't that be a kick in the pants?!?!!?!

Ok, I am done highjacking your thread. Looking forward to progress on this project. Good luck!

[DoctorDuke]

Most research I have found shows that swapping in a 5 speed is more common than keeping the auto.

Stock the 1UZ-FE only puts out 250 HP and about 250 ftlb's. And the A340E is supposed to suck up to something stupid like 25% of the power. And while that sure beats the old 22RE's, it is nothing as compared with a V8 from today.

Ok, I am done highjacking your thread. Looking forward to progress on this project. Good luck!


No worries about highjacking - I'm hoping doing a build thread will help me organize my thoughts and plans better. You've already have me re-considering transmission options. There does seem to be a lot of manual swap threads - but I find a lot more of them are incomplete, abandoned, or so old photos, charts, links no longer work :frown:.

I could only find two T100 automatic transmissions & transfer cases in Colorado right now. I'm think the aw4 tail hosing and dana 300 might be the way to go now, should be a lot easier to find and gives more build options down the road.

I still think auto is the way to go. I've heard about the drive train loss, but 25% sounds way too high. I don't know, but I don't think I've seen any direct dyno comparisons. Autos are usually have more loss than manual, but for shift efficiency and timing they make up for it. Especially for a rig like I'm hoping to build. I think it would be easier and cheaper to make up the HP difference with a megasquirt setup and tuning.

Also - I have to keep remembering this is all relative to the old 22re I'm used to having in these trucks. - so I should stop thinking and worrying about the horse power anyway.

Right now I need to really focus on getting it running again and get it tuned up a bit before pulling it and do the gaskets and belts. I also really need to get it parted out so I can get the cash for the rest of build's big ticket items.

[Brad]

Sounds like a amazing build! Looking forward to more posts! And of course pictures!:thumb:

[Java]

just a thought, what about a non-ECM 700r4 and an NP231C?

[dieseldoc]

multi scuff might still have the d300 he picked up in the sprimg. hit him up about it.
I hear the wire harness is the hard part.
that and a rear sump for the solid axle swap.
I know where a kit is that dude might let go for cheep....if he didnt return it.
the d44 swap is not to bad depending on what set ypu get.
the wider stuff looks realy silly under a yota they are just to wide.
stak out of texas hascyou t-case if you cant find a local iron one.
they build a replace a case aluminum and both side drop options....heard they got bought out a few months back but not sure...
some place here in town has toy axles by the hundred.....I like the fj80 stuff for the strenght and full float rear.

keep us posted an pic pic pic lots

[DoctorDuke]

just a thought, what about a non-ECM 700r4 and an NP231C?

It could be possible with the 700r4 or a TH400 - but It would need a custom torque converter. I can make the converter plate pretty easily, but the torque converter I don't know looking around that could bring the total up pretty high with a rebuild kit and all the other stuff - but it would be a pretty bullet proof option. I've always been a pretty big Toyota fan so I doubt I'd go that way. I mean, at that point I might as well have gotten an LS motor :blah:

[DoctorDuke]

I hear the wire harness is the hard part.
that and a rear sump for the solid axle swap.
I know where a kit is that dude might let go for cheep....if he didnt return it.
some place here in town has toy axles by the hundred.....I like the fj80 stuff for the strenght and full float rear.

keep us posted an pic pic pic lots

I'm pretty comfortable with the wiring, these things are pretty simple. I've also got the entire harness to work with which is a billion times easier than the JDM engines with firewall cuts most of the foreign swaps deal and where you probably heard it was the hard part. The plan right now is to use all the factory sensors and bells and whistles along with the sc400 cluster - so I will not be doing to much to the harness anyway.

My donor car has the rear sump - which is good. But I haven't done the axle swap yet so I might do it during the swap. Looking at my rough mesurments I can can probably trim the pan a bit and make it work with a rear sump for IFS and axle...

I think I have a line on a toy axle and best part is it might be a straight up trade for some brake parts off the sc400. I think the D44 will be too wide and not worth the hassle.

[DoctorDuke]

Finally has some time to get out and play with the sc400 since I got it delivered last Saturday. Finally got it started up :woot:which was a huge relief since I bought on faith that the mileage was low and that it sounded like she wanted to start.
I was prepared with my wiring diagrams and meters to dig into crank sensors and ignitors and relays and even ordered new capacitors to rebuild the ECU - based on common no start issues from the lexus forums. Luckily it was merely bad stereo wiring that was making a mess with a few of the fuses. They where using the ecu ign fuse to draw power for something in the radio harness that was hacked up and spliced to hell. - probably because most of the dash fuses where blown. Then the igniters where not bolted down and that is how they are grounded so a quick wire wheel to the mounts and a few bolts did the trick to that.

It didn't have to crank for more than a millisecond before catching and turning over. Oh, she sounds soooo sweet. revs so fast. :steer: Ran it for a while and make sure it wasn't leaking/smoking/missing etc. No CEL or warning lights. Tomorrow and this weekend I'll get into timing and compression and leak down just to make sure. I plan on doing starter, timing, water pumps, and gaskets when I pull it - but I want it running well before I swap so I can attribute any issues to the work done in the swap.


Couldn't really drive it around. Power steering isn't working and the junk yard wheels are so out of balance it feels like the car will shake itself apart. :frown: I might swap the wheels around and at lest match up the same size/rims really quick so I can trash it just a little bit before pulling it.


Something might be up with the transmission unfortunately - from a stop on level ground you could feel it wanting to pull hard with the brakes and after you let up. Stopping on an incline it would roll back words - it wouldn't hold in drive after applying the brakes until you blipped the throttle - it would hold if you messed with it a bit but full on brake and it would roll backwards again. Not sure what to make of that one yet... :confused:

On the plus side some tuner/drifter kids from down the street where are interested in buying the car after I pull the motor for kind of body swap to his rusted and trashed sc400. If he come through I'll be doubling my money on the car and have a free 1uz :2thumbup: Might be too good to be true, might be meant to be.

I'll get some pictures and video started tomorrow !

[94ToyBear]

I'm pretty comfortable with the wiring, these things are pretty simple. I've also got the entire harness to work with which is a billion times easier than the JDM engines with firewall cuts most of the foreign swaps deal and where you probably heard it was the hard part. The plan right now is to use all the factory sensors and bells and whistles along with the sc400 cluster - so I will not be doing to much to the harness anyway.

My donor car has the rear sump - which is good. But I haven't done the axle swap yet so I might do it during the swap. Looking at my rough mesurments I can can probably trim the pan a bit and make it work with a rear sump for IFS and axle...

I think I have a line on a toy axle and best part is it might be a straight up trade for some brake parts off the sc400. I think the D44 will be too wide and not worth the hassle.

If you go toy solid, I have a rebuild kit For sale.
I'm pretty excited about your build! If you ever need a hand, and I'm free I don't mind helping you out.
I'm out on summer break so I have a good amount of time off.

[DoctorDuke]

If you go toy solid, I have a rebuild kit For sale.
I'm pretty excited about your build! If you ever need a hand, and I'm free I don't mind helping you out.
I'm out on summer break so I have a good amount of time off.

Triple sweet. How much are you asking for the rebuild kit? I could probably use a hand when It comes time to pulling the engine - I'd like to get it out as quick as possible to get rid of the donor before the wife gets too upset. I miss summer breaks. I miss all the breaks lol. Enjoy that time and freedom while you can.

[94ToyBear]

https://www.trail-gear.com/TG/Knuckle_Sandwich/i_0_0_3544/_300117-1-KIT.aspx#.VXkRUsvnbqA

They go for around 260 not including s+h
I would go for 200 or so.
Hopfully you find something that won't need a rebuild though.

Lucky I get a break every summer 😊 pm, your info and we can set something up. I'm in Denver btw.

[dieseldoc]

I would rebuild anyway. Better to pull it apart and inspect it before you go run it bard under a V8.
The work is not that bard to do just a greasy mess.

[DoctorDuke]

No big updates - but I managed to trade some of the brake components off the sc400 for a Toyota front axle for my swap and sold the car for parts to kid that is into drifting for what I have into it so the budget on this thing in in the positive.

94ToyBear here can hopefully lend a hand some time and in the next week or two I'll have the motor pulled and ready for a re-fresh before the swap really begins.

Now I need to get serious about adding 220 out to the garage so I can go get my welding equipment back. I'm going to cut out the front clip completely and need to make motor and trans mounts at a minimum along with the exhaust... But I'll probably end up doing the solid axle swap at the same time now it looks like I have an axle.

[94ToyBear]

NICE ! Sunday I cant Let me know about Monday.

[dieseldoc]

New frame work....so7nds like good times. Just take the time to lay it all out.
Yet leaving the front rails and strip them clean of motor mounts is the easy option.
Do the swap as you have it apart and can get in there at that time.
There is a thread here that did a tilt front clip....the truck is done very well and easy to vet to his LS1

[DoctorDuke]

A tilting clip is cool and I thought about it but it might be too 90s chrome shock and drive shaft looking for my taste . I think I'll make it bolt on for simplicity sake.

I've done a couple solid axle swaps - some better than others - but this one will be better than usual because I have a friend with quite the impressive shop in his garage down the street from me.

Hello beautiful.... What's that? custom adapters? motor mounts? Cut my own gears? My mind just boggles at the opportunities here. I thought I was pretty good with a torch and mig, but I think my game is about to step up big time.
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/krug.jpg:bowdown:



The fun isn't over yet either because we've got a 3D printer to play with too. I've got a few dash plugs made and tested that where missing from the truck. I'm working on some little things like ignition plate, clips to fix the dash, something to get the sc400 instrument cluster fitting flush, and all kinds of silly stuff just because I can.

Here are the plugs I'm playing with - original vs 3d printed. These where pre-designed by someone else and put on thingverse.com which is pretty cool. Drawing these up is time consuming but I'm working on a 3D scanner from an xbox kinnect, stepper motor, and arduino board that'll pretty much let us take a 3D image of anything and print it out. :eek:

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/3dprintplate.png
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/3dplatecad.png

[94ToyBear]

You just blew my mind hahah

[DoctorDuke]

You just blew my mind hahah

http://i.imgur.com/z6BW9Wk.gif

[dieseldoc]

Nice.....wish I had a dam garge let alown access to that kind of equipment.

Sounds like it should be a fun project.

[Patrolman]

That is awesome stuff! Gives me all kinds of ideas for my 4Runner and truck!

[SynergyXJ]

That VF-2 is in a garage?! #dreamgarage

[DoctorDuke]

Making steady progress on the build this weekend. Thanks to Adam aka 94ToyBear (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/member.php?748-94ToyBear) for coming up and giving me a hand pulling the motor. He tore through the dash like it owed him money and saved me a lot of frustration by remembering to do little things like disconnect the shift linkage:oops:.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4191.JPG

Over all the extraction went pretty smooth. I had to fight with the exhaust for longer than I would have liked. I don't know how exhaust shops do it - nothing fun about it at all even on cars in good condition. My Sawzall died and the angle grinder didn't have enough clearance - so I had to borrow a neighbors saw to cut it out. The sc400 exhaust is huge... 3 catalytic converters and 4 mufflers. I can't wait to hear how it sounds and feels with the exhaust opened up a bit more.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/attachments/sc-400-300/171690d1422049910t-upgrading-exhaust-system-sc400-help-please-aaa-ht1.jpg

I'm saving some of it for the conversion and should make at least a million dollars scrapping the unused parts of the exhaust :2c::2c:.


The banjo fittings for the power steering and hydro fan where unreasonably seized up too - but every other bolt was smooth and easy:wrench:. 90% of the day was the exhaust and 3 bolts. Getting at the ecu and the dash took some time but 94ToyBear (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/member.php?748-94ToyBear) :bowdown: took care of that for me which would have probably taken me twice as long. Forgot to get the shift linkage unbolted while the car was lifted, but once that was off the engine slid right out. No broken harness clips or broken/stripped bolts/threads on anything I was planning on keeping.


Now I need to figure out the transfer-case situation.


Options:


1. Take bell housing, TC, Input shaft from lexus a340e and put on the 4runner's a340h. Pros: easy, no cost, already have the parts. Cons: ECU will not work with a340H and would have to manually shift or figure out how to wire it. Also has a chain driven t-case that is integrated so no crawler boxes our doubler.

Even though it has the same valve bodies and guts insides. Wiring harness is different but I can't find documents on the how/why to try to splice or swap solenoids and harness... Seems like it should work but no body seems to have done it - maybe because of lack of gears/twin stick/doubler.


2. Find a a340f trans & t-case and swap tail housing and cut the out put shaft on the a340e. Pros: easy, toyota drive chain, could add gears, doubler, etc. Cons: Hard to find and kind of expensive - all the a340f are driver side drop on the newer trucks - only a few years of v6 automatic 4x4 t100s had them.


3. Find a jeep AW4 trans and swap the tail and output shaft and use a np205, dana300, atlas2. Pros: could be cheap or free if I can find a broken trans, lots available cheaply otherwise. Endless t-case options. keeps the ecu working with trans Cons: Not Toyota, have to basically rebuild the transmission.


4. Inchworm makes a pre-runner adapter. It will mate up the trans to a t-case. Pros: stupid easy Cons: Stupid expensive. Still have to find the t-case


5. Make my own adapter. I've got access to that cnc machine and with a little time in cad and a few thousand measurements should be able to cut a plate to fit the trans, one to fit t-case, and spacer to make it work. Pros: Ultra-cool DIY fab skills & street cred. Cons: Potentially in way over my head.


6. Manual swap. Find w56 or r150f and the other manual swap parts. Pros: 5spd manual, cheap and easy to find trans & t-case, more power. Cons: Custom bell housing, flex plate, & other conversions parts start at $1200 and ship from Thailand, by far the most expensive option at probably double the next most costly part.


Right now I am leaning between options 1 & 3. Maybe try option 1 and experiment with the set up while waiting to find a deal on the the AW4 and Dana 300. At least to start with, getting it moving under it's own power really helps keep the motivation up. Doing a manual or any other option in the future is still possible for sure and swapping the trans under the 4runner will be a lot easier once the axle swap and a little lift is put in.

Right now it just seems crazy to spend twice what I have into the 4runner and the lexus together on a simple transmission and transfer-case. There is a lot left to do for the build after the swap between axle swap, tires, gears, lockers, winch, interior sound reduction, seats, bumpers, sliders, maybe a cage, and most importantly stereo and led light bar:rolleyes: So I want to be at least somewhat frugal with the swap here.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4193.JPGhttp://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4194.JPG

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4197.JPG

The 1uzfe is a big freaking motor. :eek:

[dieseldoc]

Keep all tbem cats....you have to have the exhoust to the standars of the sc400.
stupid emissions laws say if it ha 3 in the donor the car it goes into must have the same number of cats. The nice thing is the muffler dont need to match!

Good progress for sure.
exhlust shops get the hot wrench out or they soak them over night in something like PB blaster.
for me I get the hot wrench out if it will fit with out burnning stuff.

[DoctorDuke]

Keep all tbem cats....you have to have the exhoust to the standars of the sc400.
stupid emissions laws say if it ha 3 in the donor the car it goes into must have the same number of cats. The nice thing is the muffler dont need to match!

Good progress for sure.
exhlust shops get the hot wrench out or they soak them over night in something like PB blaster.
for me I get the hot wrench out if it will fit with out burnning stuff.

Oh.... I've got a fool proof plan to get around the pesky three cats...
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4163.JPG:lmao:

The exhaust got a few applications of pb-blaster but cutting was the option. I don't have my plasma and my favorite tool - the hot wrench was stolen a few years ago and hasn't been replaced. :frown: I would have probably been to chicken to use it under the sc anyway, but I really wanted it about half way.

[dieseldoc]

Craigs list man....a few bones and you can pick one up.

Sorry to hear some fool stole your stuff.

[DoctorDuke]

Just a little update because I'm starting to get into the boring stuff and it will probably be a few weeks to month before anything exiting happens.

Changed my mind about the transmission. Picked this 5spd and transfer up for a good price yesterday. It'll give me more power which Brucker (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/member.php?1249-Brucker) discussed a lot about at the start of this build thread. Not only getting more of the power to the wheels, but making it a lot more serviceable and opening gearing options with doublers etc.

All the other manual swaps required new Bellhousings and parts that really added up. There are a few kits available to get the 1uz matched up to a w56/58 or r150f but they are so expensive. While I was thinking up ways to make an adapter the lexus a340e auto to a transfer case I thought of a way to use 1uz's auto bell housing with the w56. I'm going to be making my own adapter and using a throwout bearing so I don't have to mess with opening the bell housing and fitting a fork and slave cyl in there. If it goes half as well as I imagine it should be pretty nice.

If anyone happens to come across the clutch pedal Assembly for early pickup/4unners - I really need that now.


http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4273.JPG

For the next few weeks I am just cleaning and selling parts. I've got a lot of the working good bits of the 22re cleaned up and listed on eBay for the small stuff and Craigslist for the bigger items and will get the two extra auto transmissions I've got laying around out and cleaned up and hopefully someone can use them or they'll be going for scrap.

There is still a lot to do preparing the swap. The list grows longer every-time I start thinking about. In the mean time I have a lot of maintence parts ordered up and while I am cleaning the motor up I'll take care of the timing belt, water pump, rebuilt the starter, get seals replaced while the motor is out, and probably put in new dist caps, rotors, wires, plugs because I love that fresh feeling with a new engine/car. I am going to clean up and paint the engine bay before I shove this thing in there too now since the engine will be new and shiny looking.

In the mean time I might as well get started on the solid axle swap too. :rolleyes: I'm eager to get the motor in and running and have a little fun before diving into the next project, but it just makes too much sense to do it now.

Here are a few more pictures just for fun.

Hard to believe this thing will fit just by looking at it.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4272.JPG
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4270.JPG

[94ToyBear]

https://denver.craigslist.org/ptd/5071899056.html

Parts truck maybe?

[DoctorDuke]

Getting Slower on the updates - but work is moving forward. Just slower and a little more boring.

Thanks to 94ToyBear (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/member.php?748-94ToyBear) 's eagle eyes a perfectly good Toyota front axle was picked up at U Pull and Pay. There was a very nice 81 pickup here that had no business being scrapped - but oh well.
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/81pickup.jpg

Someone pulled the axle, but left it behind after taking the 3rd out. 94ToyBear (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/member.php?748-94ToyBear) tucked it away and lucky for me it was still there when I came back after a weekend in Steamboat. Was able to get some parts to upgrade the brakes while we where there and scored some Willys parts to decorate the garage. It has been a couple of years since I've been to that u-pull-&-pay and it wasn't as fun as I remember. Lucky my refund/exchange gift card thing still has a good amount on it and worked - but they've gotten slow, lazy, and stingy. They opened like 45 minutes late, wanted to charge for every part even though they call a complete axle "hub to hub". Tried to argue the fact the the rotors, calipers, caliper brackets, and other bits where definitely in-between the hub - but it was loss on them and still a decent deal so I took it.


Speaking of things that had no business being scrapped..
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4387.JPG


I'm getting close to being done with the parts collecting. I'm waiting for a few things to arrive and almost ready to start machining the adapter for the transmission. I still need to grab a clutch kit, flywheel, and lines. I also need some steering bits and springs - but after that the big parts are accounted for. Plus or minus a few odds and ends.

Parts cleaning and painting is slower and tedious than I'd like. I'll hate myself if I have to go fix anything if it is greasy later - so clean it now. I'll be getting the wiring sorted and engine maintence done once the timing belt and water pump show up in the mail.

With a little luck and a successful bribe of an electrician friend, I'll have 220 out to the garage just in time to get the solid axle swap installed which will be just in time to get the motor put in. I don't want to jinx myself, but I'm starting to think there is a chance I'll be able to drive, smog, register and do some light wheeling before winter.

[94ToyBear]

It was a pretty fun day I must say. Glad it was still around!
What springs do you plan on using?
I'm not sure if I told you but I have a rebuild kit for the solid axle I'll sell to you for a great price.
Either way I'm glad your making great progress !

[Patrolman]

Looks like you scored some great parts! Thinking of an e-locker for the front axle while it is apart? You need a 3rd member, so you may as well make it a cool one!

You are right, the salvage yards have really gotten stingy. Most times I go, I can't even find the parts I need. All too often it seems they have the "cool" stuff hidden in back. They are a million Corolla's and F-150's. Nothing that helps me.

[dieseldoc]

I used a set of yj springs on my sami with a toy axle.
They worked well to say the least.

[DoctorDuke]

Update to keep myself motivated.

Parts are getting clean. Engine bay is about ready for pain. Looking good. :thumb:

In order to get the engine swap part of this moving along, I'm going to wait on the axle swap for a bit. I have the axle and most of the other parts available, but I decided take my time with this part and build it up top notch from the start. I've had good luck with Toyota axles so far, but i think luck is the key word. I want to do a good rebuild, add trussing, longs, etc. I don't think I'll go e-locker up front however, I've always thought a detroit, aussie, or similar is perfect and with a twin stick. E-locker is for sure on the rear, and as much as having selectable front and rear sounds cool... I dunno. I've changed my mind so much on this build who knows.

I'd rather drive it around a bit this fall winter and build up the axle and do the swap in winter/spring. So I decided to drop the front pumpkin and axle and run it in 2wd for a while. I'm about 92% sure that will be fine temporarily, so I can work on the tuning while doing some body work and building the axle. My list of interior mods is growing quickly too, and with the armor and winch stuff... my to do list keeps getting longer so I need definitely focus on the motor before getting to far behind. So axle swap is coming after engine swap now.

On to actual updates.

The adapter is almost ready to be cut on the cnc. I have two designs drawn up - Probably over kill as either will likely work, but I wanted to play with some options to save on the machining work and make sure sure I leave enough material for it to hold up. Here is what I have below. I think I might have it cut out of cardboard - found a cool place online that will laser cut about anything from anything. At very least I will print it out and cut it out of foam board to make sure all the measurements are right.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/1uz-w56cad.jpg


Bad news is I can't run 220v to the garage right now... :mad:
Not enough room in the panel. All the work we've done to the house in the last year I some how didn't see that it was full. Looks like I'll be adding a sub panel, but still need to make room in the main by taking a couple of circuits off and adding it to the new sub. Not a huge deal, but a pain and will at least delay getting engine mounts made.

[DoctorDuke]

Moving right along... slowly.

Seems like it's been weeks since I've been able to spend any real quality time in the garage, but finally got a few important things done and am getting close to putting this engine in for a test fit.

Removed the front differential, cross members, bracing, and cut off the diff mounts and motor mounts to make some room for the engine. Cleaned up the engine bay a bit, light rust removal, primer, and paint to round it all off.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4447.JPG
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4448.JPG

No car show beauty queen, but it does look a lot better for just taking a few minutes. I always admire the guys that can grind, fill, smooth, bondo, paint, and polish the engine bay - but good god that's a lot of work. This is actually the first time I've even bothered with touching up the engine compartment, but it seems appropriate with the 1uz going in to take a little care.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4450.JPG

Plenty of room for the 1uz now. Obviously need to clean up the cuts and take the axle shafts out still, but this will get to to where I can drop the motor in, get some mounts made, and start on getting the exhaust through the back end.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4451.JPG

There is the mess. Parts cleaning is getting old. Part collecting is getting out of hand. time to start putting parts into the truck.
My 1x12x12 inch block of aluminum is in the mail to machine my adapter, just ordered the clutch bits, and blocked off time off over the next two weeks to put some real quality time in to get this swap rolling.

[Brad]

Hardest part in a big swap is time management. It's why most cool projects like yours don't get finished and end up on Craigslist. Keep up the good work! :thumb:

[dieseldoc]

Projects l8me this take a ton of time.
Have lead to many a devorce as well.

Looks good keep pluging away at it.

[DoctorDuke]

Hardest part in a big swap is time management. It's why most cool projects like yours don't get finished and end up on Craigslist. Keep up the good work! :thumb:

Thanks :2thumbup: Good to know people are still reading too.

I think at this point it would be more work to sell it on CL than finishing it.

I can't remember how many great build threads I've read over the years - some taking years go build - suddenly end with "cross posted in classifieds" so sad.

[xaza]

I had fallen behind somehow, but am caught up. Things are moving right along. Wylie gives me a hard time about sanding and painting all my parts if they come off, for any reason, so I understand and agree about a few extra minutes. Look forward to seeing more.

[DoctorDuke]

How to make your own custom parts and adapters in 932 easy steps.

This is how I'm making my bell housing adapter to mate the manual trans to the 1uz. This process is pretty much how any adapter or part you've ever seen is likely done. You could do this to make about anything.


First, you need to have two parts that do not go together at all but that you would like to go together anyway.
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/bellhousings.jpg
Here I have the bell housing from the 1uz to auto trans and the bell housing from a 22re to w56 bell housing.
I actually want the 1uz bell housing to bolt to the w56 trans, but it is easier to measure the bold pattern from the w56 side of the 22re bell housing.

Second, you need to take a lot of measurements.
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4461.JPG
Not quite like this, but sorta. This was just a quick one to make sure I was buying the right size block of aluminum to machine the part from. Which by the way if you need weird stuff, like mic6 aluminum block -McMaster-Carr - (http://www.mcmaster.com/#) awesome place that will deliver about anything for free in a couple of days. Making an account there was a mistake because you can order any material or widget you can think of.

Unfortunately I seem to be missing this part of the process in pictures, but that's because it is rather tedious and boring.
What I actually did was to paint the bell housings with craft acrylic stuff and used them like giant rubber stamps onto poster board. I then traced them out and had a good copy of the bolt patterns to work with inside. Also make sure to mark some reference points - top and bottom in this case so i could align them correctly latter.

I like working in metric - so my real measurements where in millimeters. I love the metric system. I admit it, I'm a metric loving a hole. But really for this sort of stuff it works better, a lot better. Also programs like Auto Cad are unit-less so scalability and imputing lots of measurements is easier when you can use even 10 based numbers. fractions complicate it and make room for mistakes. I mean, 1 17/32" to 1.53125" or just call it good at 13.5mm ?

Once you have a good set of reference points fire up the old CAD program and start drawing.
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/1uz-w56cad.jpg

I actually took a lot of drafting and cad classes in middle & high school and a couple in college. Seem weird to admit, but I'm old enough that they still taught it on paper with rulers and pencil and big ass erasers. But I was also young enough to get formal instruction in CAD software.
Software has improved a little bit in the last 20 years. So while I had an idea of what and how to do it, I spent a lot of time on google trying to figure out how to actually get it in there. They offer a free online version that I've been using for a while to do things like designing my deck plans for the city permits and other remodeling projects. It's where I started this project before using the full demo version to get the 3d bits done. https://www.autocad360.com/

The design parts takes the most time, at least for me but I'm sure a professional with tons of experience in autocad could whip this up in a day. I spent a lot of time going back and forth measuring and re-measuring stuff to make sure it cleared and fitted. Eyeball tested things and calibrated my guesstimates on how much material was needed.

Now, because big blocks of aluminum are not exactly cheap - I wanted to make sure it is good to go before I start cutting.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4454.JPG
So I print them out to scale. If you have access to a plotter, this is easy. I'm sure I could have sent it off somewhere and had it plotted for a few bucks, but with a little time to set up the printer and print a bunch of sections to cut and tape together wasn't too bad.

Once I had the paper template cut out I could go and make sure the measurements I took lined up with the parts like I wanted to.
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4456.JPG

Holy ****, it's almost like I know what I am doing. :eek:

Sharp eye readers might notice there seems to be some extra holes in there. Well 1 the bolts go through both parts to mount the housing to the trans, 2 there are some alignment studs in the transmission face, 3 I have an alignment reference point hold, and 4 I've been playing with way to mount the hydraulic throwout bearing.

To be really sure however, I took it another step and made the part from foam board.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4458.JPG

This is more of a practice part so I can make sure the parts fit together like I plan. the foam board is just strong enough that i can slip some bolts through it all on the floor and check the input shaft depth and the alignment of trans and housing - so it's not clocked at all. This part was probably overkill, but it was fun. You can skip the last few steps and actually have these laser cut from just about any material you want. It would have been cooler to send off my files and had have it plotted and laser cut out of plastic board or similar and I would have had my sample cuts done quick.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4460.JPG

Here is the part mocked up on the aluminum blank. Ready to be cut. Hopefully next update will have some pictures and video of the CNC process.

[94ToyBear]

Very nice man, keep up the work !

[Patrolman]

That is awesome! I wonder if a 3D printer would have made things any easier? Print it out, test fit it, and once you are happy cut the aluminum.

[DoctorDuke]

That is awesome! I wonder if a 3D printer would have made things any easier? Print it out, test fit it, and once you are happy cut the aluminum.

It could, but wouldn't at the same time.

I have access to a couple of printers and really want to have my own, but it would really just be an expensive toy for me. As cool as it sounds to rapid prototype things like this, it is a lot quicker and cheaper doing what I did here.

I just went and converted my file and tried a couple online price/time calculators because I was about to write a paragraph speculating the time and money to 3d print this. The actual time and cost estimate was $75 in material and 13hours to print it. About a 3rd of by guess, but with spool changes and mess ups - my guess might be more accurate than the calculator.

But in a higher production level, needing many multiple test and versions, and if you had other things to do worth more than waiting for the printer, or more importantly wanted to up the really cool factor - 3d printing is the way to go.

3D printing is fun and the future for sure, but it's really just an expensive hobby.

[dieseldoc]

updates???

[DoctorDuke]

updates???

Ah, yeah... updates...

Well. The engine has been in and out of the bay a few dozen times and I've been screwing with the headers. Basically the conclusion was the torsion bar mounts are in the way and taking the time to make headers to work around them when I am going to remove them eventually for the solid axle is stupid.

So I haven't done a whole lot over the last month as I haven't had time to machine my adapter yet and I haven't gotten out to the yards to find the springs I need to finish the axle swap.

I also had a lead on a decent but in need of tlc 1985 that i was trying to buy cheap that could be combined with my rig to make a better more complete truck. The 85 frame and extra axle would have been nice and no sense chopping mine up if I got a good one - so that put me back a couple weeks feeling that situation out. But long story short - didn't get the truck and moving forward on my original one now.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/FullSizeRender.jpg
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/FullSizeRender%202.jpg

I was secretly hoping to find a plasma cutter on the cheap over some time. Unfortunately it seems people are not just putting them out at garage sales and thrift stores. I guess the hot knife and grader will get it done - I am hoping to get the axle under the truck by the end of September.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4525.JPG
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4526.JPG
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4527.JPG



The axle rebuild is pretty boring. Pressure washing parts and bits is boring. I still do not have all the steering figured out - I probably will not bother until after the engine is in and running. I also need to get the part cut to finish the mounts because I'd really like to mount the transmission and tcase in the factory location so I need it all to bolt together to mock it up.

I've also been busy having fun on the road and mountain bikes and trying to get some fly fishing in along with the usual back to school stuff that comes up this time of year.

http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/IMG_4532.JPG


So that's the update for those still paying attention. I am hoping the next updates will be pretty major - Machining the adapter and setting up that part, getting the engine in and mounted, and the axle swap process.

[94ToyBear]

whats new ! ?

[dieseldoc]

So your front springs are an issue as toy springs are expencive.
If you check out LOWRANGE OFFROAD look in the sami section they have jeep yj springs for like 90 a spring.
They work very well up front.
I have a shackle reversed set up I used them on a toy axle in a zuki.
For that I hung the springs of the front bumper.....I still have said bumper it will be here in late October
Am willing sell the heavily built bumper and winch mount for about the cost of materials.
Will get pics once its here.

[DoctorDuke]

Sorry it has been a while since and update. I hope you'll all believe me when I say it has been harder for me than you with the waiting and anticipation.

This is the biggest little update so far, and an exciting one because I've been looking forward to this step and it was in the way of getting more done.


https://youtu.be/LoiVnAQ2wCA


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LoiVnAQ2wCA

My phone died by the end, but I got as many pictures and videos as I could and threw them into a single video for you here.

So it just took a while to get some time on my friend's cnc as he was busy actually making money working for clients and I had to refine the design a little while learning how to take cad files and make them step files for solidworks and setting up the cutting program. My buddy did all the gcode stuff - and honestly unless you have a cnc and know the features and tools it is just a huge step from solid works to actually running the cnc. But damn, it is fast & smooth. I did learn a lot and could probably do some simple things without breaking the machine or expensive bits - there are some other parts and things in the woks now. It took about 12min to go from solid 12"x12"x3/4" block of aluminum to an approximate 2" wide 8"x10" oval

I've set up the pieces and know it all works/fits - but I need some longer bolts and to tap the bell housing part so I hope I can snap a few pictures of the finished part and assembly here these weekend before I go on vacation.

I still need to machine the flywheel - but it is rather trivial and the drive train is ready to go.

I also ordered a plasma cutter finally :2c: - another reason to put off finishing the axle swap for a while. It should be here in a week or so when I get back so I can't wait to cut stuff.

[DoctorDuke]

So your front springs are an issue as toy springs are expencive.
If you check out LOWRANGE OFFROAD look in the sami section they have jeep yj springs for like 90 a spring.
They work very well up front.
I have a shackle reversed set up I used them on a toy axle in a zuki.
For that I hung the springs of the front bumper.....I still have said bumper it will be here in late October
Am willing sell the heavily built bumper and winch mount for about the cost of materials.
Will get pics once its here.

I'll look at the jeep yj springs, thanks. If nothing else that sounds like a good deal for some leafs to combine with my rears to dial in the front end.

I already have a good spring hanger up front so I don't really need that bumper, but I'll take a look at it because I'll need a bumper and winch mount anyway.

[94ToyBear]

Glad you are updates! Gona have to go wrench with you soon

[dieseldoc]

Nice update.
Cnc time way cool.
My parts will be here from cali next weekend so pics of parts to come.

[DoctorDuke]

A few pictures of the finished part being installed.
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/unnamed6.jpg
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/unnamed5.jpg
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/unnamed4.jpg
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/unnamed3.jpg
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/unnamed2.jpg
http://bmf-industries.com/doctorduke/unnamed.jpg
I've been channeling my inner drifter/ricer as most of the good resources for the 1uz seem to be from the drift crowd. Going for the ironic/stupid sticker bomb effect.:lmao:

[Brucker]

Looking good

[dieseldoc]

Nice!
So wish I could make the custom parts I want.....like that!

[DoctorDuke]

So shortly after the last update I started tearing into the suspension to make room for the 1uz. I was planning on doing chevy 63" springs in the rear and using the rears to build a custom pack for a solid axle swap up front. Removing the ifs and boxing the frame would have given plenty of room for the 1uz.

However, trying to line up the new hangers on the rear I kept getting off and things where not looking square. Long story short - the frame was basically a z-shape. It was hard to see from normal angles and I considered long and hard - possible to overcome and deal with.

After a lot of time thinking and planning - i decided that given the over all body/frame condition and the effort in this build it was worth finding a more worthy recipient to build off of.

So, the last 5 months or so I've been looking for the right 4runner to build. It was difficult to find the right mix of good enough shape and not already built or built crappy. At 30 years old I think the market has eliminated the middle ground of these - all the really complete and clean ones are being priced out of average guys range, the affordable ones are getting junkier and junkier (and likely being cannibalized to build decent ones)

I finally decided to give up - at least on a 4runner. Started widening my search and considering other rigs.

I had been researching quite a few fun options - Scouts, Range Rovers, even going back to full size blazers...

So I decided to try selling everything and starting over. I loved the 1uz and really wanted to put it in something, but buying a rig around an engine wasn't seeming to work out.

I ended up selling my swap parts. I even was able to sell the busted frame and 4runner to a guy that rolled his 4runner in moab and could at least do a cab swap - so that worked out well for him. I also earned a little good karma by hooking up a gentleman that bought a 1uz swapped 4runner from cali that was damaged in transient by giving him the a240 auto trans out of the lexis that he was having trouble sourcing before his moab trip..

I even found a guy in the springs that purchased the 1uz and adapter to put in his 2wd pickup as a sort of drift truck... I hated to see it go, but I figured I had to let it go to move on and get something to go wheeling in.

Low and behold, a few weeks later I spy a good 4runner and it's in pretty darn good shape...

I'll be updating the continuation of this build.. It will be a bit milder. The truck is in good condition interior / body /frame. It has a pro comp ifs lift and good tires - so I've sold the axle swap too and keeping it a bit more mild in the family wheeler theme.

The old 3.0 and auto are getting tossed and a 3.45vz-fe and manual 5spd is going in. This will be quick and easy because it is a bolt in swap, even the motor mounts line up. A custom cross over y pipe and a few wires and I'll be in business.

Thanks for those that followed along and sorry to disappoint in the end.

[dieseldoc]

sometimes leting go is the way to go.
sounds like you have a btter build after letting the other one go.

[DoctorDuke]

sometimes leting go is the way to go.
sounds like you have a btter build after letting the other one go.

I'm feeling like it all worked out like it was me that to be. Believe it or not I've come out ahead with parting it out and separating the bits - at least financially

[redneck23ms]

scott at addicted offroad was selling a 4runner with a 1uz and sas not long ago. it may have sold already though.

[DoctorDuke]

scott at addicted offroad was selling a 4runner with a 1uz and sas not long ago. it may have sold already though.

I'm a little bitter about that. Maybe more than I should be, but it was a beautiful 4Runner. Basically I had a deal with the previous owner - had cash in hand and was heading over to pick it up when he calls to tell me that Scotty came up with the money + $500 all of a sudden ( supposedly Scotty offered half and half a week later or something) - I don't like playing games it potentially imaginary bidding wars so...

I knew scotty would flip it for profit and that's business and all, but it kinda sucks. It was more the previous owners fault being hard up for cash and trying to get every dollar he could right away. However, There was a previous deal that left me salty with Scotty, with some brake calipers he wanted to buy/trade from me where he was shady and scamy about it when I delivered them. It just left s bad taste even though it Worked out fair in the end.

So while he listed it it a fair price, I know exactly what he paid for it and how little work was done to it since he got it and combined with previous experiences dealing with with him... I couldn't buy it personally. In all fairness it had to be one of the nicest 4runners around for the price.

[Patrolman]

Sorry to hear that your rig ended up being parts, but it sounds like you have a great new project lined up!

[redneck23ms]

Here's a fairly built runner with a 7mge. http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/5506048876.html

[DoctorDuke]

Here's a fairly built runner with a 7mge. http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/5506048876.html

It's a pretty cool rig, but I think he's too high on the price honestly. I actually already have a new 4runner and about halfway done with the 3.4 swap and given a couple more decent weekends I'll be ready to take it out and hit a trail finally.

[Chris]

Agreed, blowing oil drops the price significantly IMHO.