Body mounted rock slider photos

[FINOCJ]

Looking for some pics of body mounted sliders and specifically the underside. Interested to see the different methods people have used. Poison spyder has some for jeeps that use a body mount (http://shop.poisonspyder.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=10-08-010). Thinking of fabbing something similar but also worry about getting dirt mud etc trapped between the slider and the underside of the floorpan (rust concern).

[newracer]

TnT Guardian sliders

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc129/newracer/Jeep/Sliders/54E0F566-5910-4017-88C2-AD8AD06754A9_zps7lvf03as.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/newracer/media/Jeep/Sliders/54E0F566-5910-4017-88C2-AD8AD06754A9_zps7lvf03as.jpg.html)

Since I have a 1" body lift they require high clearance body mounts. They mount to the underside of the body mount.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc129/newracer/Jeep/Sliders/62CA1D1D-1DB6-4FAC-97A1-130385F64876_zpsbc6eibmh.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/newracer/media/Jeep/Sliders/62CA1D1D-1DB6-4FAC-97A1-130385F64876_zpsbc6eibmh.jpg.html)

[Jim]

On the jeep when I bought it...

[FINOCJ]

Jim - looks like yours has no mounts on bottom just on sides?

[Jim]

Correct - just the sides.

I went out and ran my hand on the underside surface - and curled my fingers to the "top" of the underside lip of the slider. No fasteners down there (and if there were to be a fastener it'd want to be a smooth head / not a nut as when sliding over something you wouldn't want a nut to snag).

95% of the lip was dirt free - only the first 2 to 4 inches had dirt sitting on the lip / between the lip and body.

[newracer]

I had Poison Spyder ones before these and when I took them off there was some dirt and minor surface rusting but nothing too bad.

I like my new ones because they protect the body mounts, I bent a few of mine pretty bad.

[FINOCJ]

Thank for the photos- always helps to see some examples. I think the later model jeeps (including the later CJs) have a smoother floorpan underside that is mostly flush with the bottom lip of the side panel sheet metal. My old jeep has two support channels about 1.5" wide under the floor pan that are mostly flush with the bottom of the rocker panel and go to the body mount. All the remainder of the floor pan is 'recessed' up over 0.5" from the bottom edge of the sheet metal. With a traditional 90 angle for the slider there will be over half an inch gap between the bottom portion of the slider and the underside of the floorpan along the entire length of the rocker except at the two support channels. Probably not a big deal as it can be hosed out but most of the slider would not be directly supported/in contact with the floorpan or any part of the underside - mostly supported/in contact along the vertical outside of the side panel.

[carpenle]

I made these for my CJ-5, sorry I do not have a better under side pic. I found all I needed at K&K http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo233/carpenle/1973%20CJ-5/IMG_20130608_162804_679.jpg (http://s379.photobucket.com/user/carpenle/media/1973%20CJ-5/IMG_20130608_162804_679.jpg.html)http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo233/carpenle/1973%20CJ-5/IMG_20130608_161639_999.jpg (http://s379.photobucket.com/user/carpenle/media/1973%20CJ-5/IMG_20130608_161639_999.jpg.html)

[redneck23ms]

heres mine. don't know the brand as they came with the jeep. they attach to the tub on the outside and between the tub and the body mount bushing underneath. the slider doesn't touch most of the floorpan except the body mount area and my current roll cage tie in.
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l539/redneck23ms1/101_0860_zpsnswdmjec.jpg (http://s1122.photobucket.com/user/redneck23ms1/media/101_0860_zpsnswdmjec.jpg.html)
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l539/redneck23ms1/101_0861_zpsv7rkukhg.jpg (http://s1122.photobucket.com/user/redneck23ms1/media/101_0861_zpsv7rkukhg.jpg.html)

[FINOCJ]

Right now - its just 2"x2" 3/16" angle iron that I cut to fit. Deciding how to continue with the mount. Looks like I can put 5 mounts into the side of the body at about 8" apart. That would probably be sufficient - kind of like Jim's - but going to try and reinforce by welding in a section of 6" wide, 3/16 flat bar that will tee into the underside of the slider and go to the body/chassis mount (kind of like the poison spyder shown above but without the nice triangular tapers). Given the slider only comes up 2" on the side, and hangs free on the bottom - not flush with most of the floorpan - due to support channels, I think the underside mount will help give strength in a horizontal inward/outward direction.

Guess its somewhat minimal overall as much of the floorpan undersides are exposed - but its better than nothing (as it is currently) and should also provide option to place hi-lift under the side. Can also weld in additional underside plate if desired in future.

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag456/jco6560/Rock%20sliders%20mock%20up_zpsffbozjxm.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/jco6560/media/Rock%20sliders%20mock%20up_zpsffbozjxm.jpg.html)

[jayson44]

kinda late to the game (and with a bad pic to boot!), but here's the steel sliders I made for my CJ5 when I had it. just 2x4 square welded to the frame. sat just below the tub...

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm251/jandkcarlson4/jeep%20stuff/DSCN2008.jpg

J.

[FINOCJ]

For those with tub mounted sliders and an underside mount at the body/frame bushing and mount: is that underside mount tight or is there room for the slider to move at the mount? The PS ones I linked in the first post have an open ended mount 'hole' that I think is to allow movement. I would like to fit mine tight but worry about needing to accommodate some differential movement/flex between body tub and frame.

Thanks

[redneck23ms]

mine has a slotted hole the slides around the body mount bolt. once bolted on there is no movement.

[FINOCJ]

Well - here is the continued development of my slider project:

Added 3" more of 'underlap' (for total of 5") as well as the 3" wide 't'-extension to mount at the body/frame mount.

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag456/jco6560/20150727_191358_zpscjds3zu9.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/jco6560/media/20150727_191358_zpscjds3zu9.jpg.html)

[fredrok]

Hey Fino,

Just saw this and thought I'd share what experience I had. Mine were Rock Hard sliders and they needed some modding to fit correctly but here are some pics that may help. I have more I can email you if you want any further detail.

I added reinforcement on the inside and of course the no-slip.

http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo316/fredrok_photos/CJ/DSC00976.jpg
http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo316/fredrok_photos/CJ/DSC00974.jpghttp://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo316/fredrok_photos/CJ/DSC00985.jpg
http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo316/fredrok_photos/CJ/DSC00986.jpghttp://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo316/fredrok_photos/CJ/DSC01046.jpghttp://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo316/fredrok_photos/CJ/DSC01005.jpghttp://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo316/fredrok_photos/CJ/DSC00999.jpghttp://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo316/fredrok_photos/CJ/DSC01047.jpg

[FINOCJ]

Thanks Fred,

I like the way you built the front of the step bar such that it fits over the bottom portion behind the front fenderwell that has that wide lip. Looks much more 'finished' than just having the front 3 inches exposed on the bottom. Going to go without any step or bar for now - especially with the 'small' feel of a short nose, narrow track cj5 without flares compared with the longer wide track cj7. Plus trying to save some weight. If I ever put fender flares on then I might run a slightly wider tire and the bar might look good. Can always be added later.

How did you mount on the underside? I see some inset bolt heads - are they just through the floorboard with small backing plate/washer. I guess that could be an option for mine but I would need some 1/2" rubber spacers to fill gap.

[fredrok]

Fino, That cutout was actually part of Rock Hard's design, however, they did it wrong and I had to do some cutting and rewelding, etc. anyway. Can't buy **** anymore that doesn't need screwing with to be right

Anyway, it was a while ago and I don't recall what I used specifically for spacers on the bottom, yes bolts through the floor boards. I do believe I didn't need any with the way the floor pan bowed down away from the rocker panel but I'm not certain. I used large 3" and then 2" washers for clamping support on the inside of the cab. I then cut the bolt even with the top of the nut and capped it with a plastic or rubber cap so if anyone stepped on it; it'd be no big deal.

[FINOCJ]

Fino, That cutout was actually part of Rock Hard's design, however, they did it wrong and I had to do some cutting and rewelding, etc. anyway. Can't buy **** anymore that doesn't need screwing with to be right


Yup - I got tired of spending good money for things only to have to hack them apart and redo (and my skill level is low). At least now I can hack something cheap that I made myself and get the same marginal end result :) Plus maybe I will develop some more skills.

[FINOCJ]

So I am back to this project... I learned a lot fabbing up this project and going through the whole process, especially with preparing the metal for the butt welds and getting the right (and consistent) gap etc. One of the sliders turned out perfect, the other has a small arc with the straightness of the angle iron (I kind of knew that when I got it
but wasn't really planning on using the warped end). But since I kind of like what I did and one works well, is there anyway I can get the other 'straightened' in some way (like on some sort of brake)?

Probably would have been more doable before I welded on the underside extension, but it is what it is. I can cut off the extension anyway and reweld if needed. The slight curve is along the length of the slider such that when placed on the side of the jeep, it creates a small gap between the side of the body and the vertical portion of the slider that will easily warp the body panel outward when tightened down. Didn't know if anyone had a machine that could 'press' the angle iron back straight. Of course, the metal has some elastic property so guessing it isn't really possible, or would have to bend past straight and let relax....just checking...

thanks

[96EXXLTinCO]

Without seeing exactly what your're reffering to, i have gotten away with heating up warped pieces and immediately clamping them flat and leaving until cooled. Just make sure to have plenty of clamps and a good flat surface to clamp to that can withstand the heat.

[FINOCJ]

Without seeing exactly what your're reffering to, i have gotten away with heating up warped pieces and immediately clamping them flat and leaving until cooled. Just make sure to have plenty of clamps and a good flat surface to clamp to that can withstand the heat.

Not sure I have a good way to heat the metal - will a small propane torch do enough. Also, the best thing I would have to clamp it to is the other rock slider, but it might be worth a shot.

[Spieg]

A frame shop will have the equipment to take out that bend.

On my sliders I used pieces of 3/8" plate on the inside of the tub to sandwich the body/sheet metal to help strengthen/support the mount... not sure you will have that option with that short of a slider but it might help straighten things out when installed.
http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a486/Spieg8/20151006_175803_zpsrb2cwxdu.jpg (http://s1280.photobucket.com/user/Spieg8/media/20151006_175803_zpsrb2cwxdu.jpg.html)http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a486/Spieg8/20151006_175920_zps5nhcjrgh.jpg (http://s1280.photobucket.com/user/Spieg8/media/20151006_175920_zps5nhcjrgh.jpg.html)

[FINOCJ]

I do intend to have some nice backing plates (the height is limiting a bit - would probably go 3" if I do it again), but given the geometry of the inside of the early cjs (there is a tool box in the floor under the seat, a steeply ramped floor pan and some other body stiffening support beams on the inside of the tub, the backing plates will not be a single continuous plate, but rather a collection of about 3 plates. I do wonder how much they will help pull things in alignment, but as they will not be continuous, it could cause some points of increased stress. I don't want to find out the hard way that it doesn't work - maybe I can run a test/trial using some sheet metal I have sitting around.