Xterra

[Java]

Went to Autonation Nissan on 104th today and dealt with a guy named John Dean. I *&$%ing hate car salesman and I'd deal with him again, he just showed us the car and made jokes, no pressure. We got a Certified PreOwned 2013 Xterra S with 24k on it, it's awesome. The power is fantastic, it rides great, we love it. and they are willing to deal, especially if you get up and walk out. :) We got it for $344.00 over the amount we had decided on before we arrived, which was not a generous offer. Can't wait to get it out into the dirt, we're probably going to take it and the Jeep on a trail tomorrow. :thumb:

Autonation doesn't screw around, the sticker was already in the window of the Subaru when I went to get our stuff out, you can see her jacket on the seat behind the sticker. Happy trails, little Forester!

First up... http://nissteclifts.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=59037&category_id=170&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=72

[FINOCJ]

New cars are fun. Enjoy!

[dscowell]

One of my friends has the same gen Xterra thing rides and drives great. Just keep in mind they are top heavy so you don't end up like this....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XONGqts-F1lqyv11UxoRFKzzBcJp5XLiQN75FTyf9J-6F1wW_wKQ1u33avw-HtzCZI9dfIr-6TmPNJcmI_Zmc1Q9N04hCFIJ7piSFMzW6BggIw9IChuiJ67noA NWRdH0ahczRtn6c3z8z3hlG-6EVpDwehY_HlRigwjqm-ctOF1lBA3tnVQ4VH1bZafXDciE93jAqeUDN1fYfbNxPKJsmDsK 8C_0LYpKhDZ2r4Xk8qB50TOlT4qJ3_DHbzzrrME_vhSRu8MaYG Tzh8WUhmGYmck068-Fkrm4h2Nbc0cCTyETsr4iT3wVx0HbdY0XA5KAPssKiZs8_wxi8 WC8lMhYCmsdqBHeD1NAoWrRh-dzJU-g36KfnDsBcjuHAqvd4fEDgN8KXloBZsV1fUJv80KcxZ9V9JNr0 YCkFG2JdpQ0yzNI5cQBTyItJRMilFOufAWyitABdIMrSgEYBPS tLJ0YefjCfbhPL_YEffovHfCWXx9vFanc96nmwKaxNuJGFHusS zPlshBWRHgLJfSCn-XUY7AqKdNGOcyHSnI2r5FhWuc=w1300-h971-no

[Hypoid]

Keep us posted Paul. Your observations will be appreciated.

I rented an X in '07 or '08, to drive to G.J. and back. It ran well, but I was expecting better fuel economy from a "new" vehicle.

[Java]

That rollover looks rough! Hope your friend was alright.

I can tell from the power that the mileage is not going to be anywhere near the Foresters. Fortunately neither will the power. :)

[The StRanger]

Very nice

[xaza]

congratulations. My sister had one that I used to take her to the airport, on the highway that thing likes to go zoom zoom. Caught myself a couple times slipping up over 80 and it was so smooth I didn't even notice until I looked at speedometer.

[dscowell]

Everyone was alright but thanks for your concern. It was a very slow roll over and just screwed the windshield and roof up. If anything I give the thing more respect for running like it never happened after getting the oil out of the cylinders. There tough vehicles!

[Shadowmaker]

Congrats on the X! Love ours... great capability, fantastic power, and a good value for a newer vehicle that still has 4 low and a locking rear diff.

Nissans are really under rated for all the capability they have.

[Java]

It's an awesome truck, we LOVE it over the Subaru. no rear locker on mine yet, it's an S not a pro4x, but it's going to get an ARB next year, unless Eaton makes a Truetrac for it between now and then. I'm looking at the Powertrax No-Slip as an option too, it seems ARB and Powertrax are the only current options for the C200K axle, but given what we plan for it a limited slip would be fine. I have a thread going about it on a Nissan forum, I'm hoping someone knows something I don't...

[Shadowmaker]

Could also look for a Pro4x or Off-road axle that already has one if you want to invest that much into a change. Some of the traction control systems in these newer vehicles are fantastic. Makes you wonder how much you really need a locker they way they work for most of our wheeling.

[Java]

The traction control is pretty cool, I felt the tires slip on a hill, the light came on and everything was fine. It has an off switch for the traction control, which is good too. Until it needs it, it's staying open.

Got a set of used skid plates from a Pro 4X that were lightly used. A little BFH and they were fine, I'm letting them sit with Simple Green sprayed on them until after work and then they're getting wire brushed, scrubbed with brillo and primed / painted with ACE Ruststop primer and Satin Black paint, mostly because I already have it. Brillo is great for used metal prep, it scuff sands and degreases all in one.

Found a hitch on ebay, cleaned it up and painted it with Rustoleum Hammered Black, which is not exactly black and should look good on in. That paint is really tough, easy to touch up. :thumb:

[Java]

Got the skid plates ready, took a sander and a wire brush to all the surface rust and a hammer and drift to all the "participation trophies". Overall they were in good shape and didn't need too much work. I primed and painted all the repaired parts black, then used a brush to paint them and the hitch with Rustoleum Hammered Black. That's really the cool part of all of this, that paint is awesome. I put in a close up of the texture, that is what you get with a thick, sloppy coat done with a cheap disposable brush. It's awesome paint, even the drips look good, there are some big ones at the bottom of the closeup photo at the edges of the holes, when I painted the other side it dripped through. The texture is like camouflage, it hides almost any surface imperfection and touches up imperceptibly. :thumb: You can see how not black it really is, I just repainted my Jeep hard top in Rustoleum Satin Black and put a piece of the skids next to it in one of the pics for comparison.

[Java]

Had a weird problem this past week, the engine started making a whining sound and the check engine, brakes and some other lights came on. We took it into Nissan, they called and asked when I had put coolant in, to which I said never and they said there was coolant all over the serpentine belt and it needed to be replaced. $184.00 for that, so I passed and picked up a nice Gates belt at NAPA for $21.00 on the way home. They found an electrical issue too, apparently the vehicle was in a fender bender before we got it and they routed a harness incorrectly and it wore down to a ground fault, so we thought that was it, no idea on the coolant. When we got home it was up to normal temp so we opened the hood to let it cool for the belt swap, and I saw a little stream of coolant arcing from the top of the radiator to the top of the belt. There was a tiny pinhole in the overflow line that only showed up under pressure, so the dealer missed it. I trimmed 1" off and reattached it. Moyle FTW!

Got rid of the locking lug nuts that came with it, those things always go south at the wrong time. I put them in a bag and left them for the local metal guy who works our alley. It also had some lame tire caps with fake diamonds on them, one of them destroyed a Schrader valve coming off. Glad it's under warranty, that would have been $175.00 plus mounting / balancing. Empire Nissan is awesome.

Also started an emergency kit. It's our "softroader" so it's more geared to onroad stuff, and it's going to change / grow, I just was at Harbor Freight...

[Brad]

My SOP with any visual coolant issue is to pressure test the system. Do you need a new radiator?

[Hypoid]

I don't see a AAA card in that kit... :D

[Java]

My SOP with any visual coolant issue is to pressure test the system. Do you need a new radiator?

No, it's a 2013 with 27k so it really should need nothing. The hose was a simple 1/2" or so rubber line that runs from the radiator neck to the overflow tank, and it had a little leak less than an inch from the clamp. I'd guess the installer nicked it and it too until now to show up.

We switched it to Mobil 1 too, it was only $30.00 more, $79.00. I hate doing oil changes, I'm glad to pay for it.

[96EXXLTinCO]

We switched it to Mobil 1 too, it was only $30.00 more, $79.00. I hate doing oil changes, I'm glad to pay for it
I don't do em either. Too much of a hassle to get rid of the oil anymore. I knew anyone anymore that worked at a shop with a used oil heater that would be a different story, but seems like everytime I try and take some into one of the parts stores, they're always full and can't take anymore. Plus I can drive down to Valvoline, and in 10 minutes oil is changed, all fluids topped off, all lights checked, and it costs about $15 more that buying the stuff and doing it yourself. Not to mention the hour you have into it between going and buying the stuff, set up and clean up, I'm with you Paul, time is more precious to me than money.

[Java]

Got the Pro-4X skid plates and receiver hitch installed. All new 10.9 Stainless hardware, blue threadlocker. They're pretty good plates, good enough for what we have planned. The last pic is the front plate, turns out all the Xterras get one, so I have a spare. If they can stack I'm going to double them. The hitch is good for a tow point, rear skid and it adds an amount of safety. When Jeeps had exploding gas tanks in rear end collisions the fix was to add these. The one on my wrangler has had it's butt kicked coming down a lot of shelves, but my gas tank skid is pristine. :thumb:

The radiator leak came back and Nissan put a new one in, along with a new computer that controls the A/C. This thing was in a front end collision with itself and a tree and was fixed by Autonation Nissan 104, certified and sold to me. Empire Nissan has gone through it for us and fixed everything under warranty, they've been great. AN104 replaced the bolt that holds the dipstick tube to the engine with a cable tie. That should tell you what to expect there. Empire rocks!

Next up is a shock upgrade and new tires.

[Java]

Some small upgrades, a roof rack basket is coming and we improved our tools. New CLC tool roll and small zipper bags, and a new tire repair kit to replace the cheapy. New tools too, a mix of Harbor Freight and Home Depot. I didn't like the screwdrivers or vice grips at HF, but the wrenches were pretty nice and complete from 8mm to 25mm, and a hammer looked serviceable. I added sockets 10-19 plus and extension and 3/8 ratchet. Some other misc. tools and I think we can handle most things. :thumb: The plastic box is a trick I learned on an Xterra forum; under the rear seat, when you flip the seat part up to fold down the back, there is a gap under the cushion that when closed up again into normal position can hold a 3.5" tall by about 6" wide box. This fits snug, hopefully it will be useful.

[Java]

My SOP with any visual coolant issue is to pressure test the system. Do you need a new radiator?

Turns out we did, good call!! It had been in a front end collision before we bought it, but thanks to the Certified Pre-Owned warranty we got a brand new radiator. And that's why you're the mechanic!! :thumb:

[Brad]

Nice! Love it when warranty covers repairs. Unless I'm getting paid to do the repair. :D

[Java]

just updated the wife's kit, the only things not shown are a folding shove and folding saw:

Tool roll
tire kit
compressor
recovery strap
manual
jumper cables
duct tape
hose tape
bailing wire
cable ties
hose clamps
short rope
WD-40
flashlight
gloves
towels

[Jim]

Looks good.

Band-aides or paper towels or a rag?

[Java]

seperate first aid kit

[Java]

Got some great deals on open box / never installed monotube shocks and struts: Bilstien 4600 for the front, KYB Gas-A-Just for the rear. Just under $200.00 including a spring compressor. A lot of people on the Xterra forums prefer the KYBs to the Bilsteins in the rear, we'll see. Everyone likes the Bilsteins upfront. After 68,000 miles including dozens of trails and dirt roads the OEM Nissan stuff is done, these should be a big upgrade.

Also put Falken Wildpeak ATW3s on last year and they've been flawless everywhere, and really shine in the snow. They track straight on snowy trails, better than my BFGs. :thumb:

[Java]

Replaced the rear shocks with KYB monotubes today, what a difference. After just 68k the OEM shocks were so shot that I can compress them by hand easily, and I compressed one, put it down and did the other; in the pic you can see how far the first one rebounded in that time, which was not far or fast. Can't wait to do the front Bilsteins tonight or tomorrow and try it out!

[Swank1975]

I also have a friend who rolled his Xterra of that generation. He was up on the flattops and was on some washboard gravel road and rolled it in a curve at like 20mph.

[Java]

Washboards can be tough, they can whip the back end around so fast it's hard to react in time. People can roll anything- last year someone rolled a mustang on 29th avenue just west of Lowell, on a flat open stretch with no close intersections. It was early morning and a single car accident.

[FINOCJ]

Can't wait to do the front Bilsteins tonight or tomorrow and try it out!
Are you thinking of the bilstein 5100s? Been thinking of replacing the shocks on my Taco 150k and still running the oem bilsteins...

[Java]

I put the fronts in today, what a bear of a job. Nothing wanted to come off. The bolts holding the top of the strut to the mounting plate were difficult, I used a heat gun and penetrating oil, hammer, vice grips, finally got both. You can't use an impact, you have to hold the end of the strut or it spins. Spring compressors always make me nervous too, but that went well.

James, save your money and get the 4600 if you're not lifting it, the 4600 and the 5100 are the same shock, one for stock height, the other for lifted. If I do lift the Xterra down the road I'm going to use a strut spacer / extended shackle so these will be fine. I don't actually plan on lifting it, it does great on trails as it, and since we have the Jeep there's not much point. You also might want to consider buying an assembly with new springs at that mileage, and to save yourself a decent headache taking the old ones off.

www.bilstein.com/us/en/faq/ (http://www.bilstein.com/us/en/faq/)

"Good question! Our B6 4600 shock is for stock height vehicles while the B8 5100 are for lifted/leveled applications. If your truck is at stock ride height you would want to use our B6 4600 shock. If you have lift components installed on your truck and need a longer shock then you would want to use the B8 5100’s. Both shocks are equally as durable and neither is better than the other."

[FINOCJ]

Looks good! coil overs are a PITA...Great info on the shocks - I am thinking 5100s on the front so i can lengthen the front 3/4 of inch by moving the snap ring and get a bit more level ride height - plus I get just a bit of rub at full compression when the wheels are turned to lock in either direction (I run a slightly oversized tire compared to oem). The 4800s would be good for the rear. It would be way easier to replace the entire coil-over and improve ride quality etc, but the price is too much for my budget. I shoulda bought somebody's barely used take-offs a few years ago put them in storage until I needed them (people were dumping them for nothing when installing lift kits)...probably could still find some decent ones, but at this point, its been quite a few years since my taco generation was made. The new generation won't work I don't think (but more research would be needed).

[Swank1975]

I like that tool roll. I might have to explore that option for my rig. My tool backpack is a bit overboard. Plus I find I take the tools back out of the vehicle.

[The StRanger]

I have individual bag in my bed box.
One for tools, one for meds & clean cloths, one for cooking & One for utensils & condiments.
i also have my oh ***** bag. (Everything needed to survive 24hours alone on a mountain )

[Java]

Since I have all sorts of time on my hands, a video about shocks and struts.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVgzCAgSaj4

[Java]

Looks good! coil overs are a PITA...Great info on the shocks - I am thinking 5100s on the front so i can lengthen the front 3/4 of inch by moving the snap ring and get a bit more level ride height - plus I get just a bit of rub at full compression when the wheels are turned to lock in either direction (I run a slightly oversized tire compared to oem). The 4800s would be good for the rear. It would be way easier to replace the entire coil-over and improve ride quality etc, but the price is too much for my budget. I shoulda bought somebody's barely used take-offs a few years ago put them in storage until I needed them (people were dumping them for nothing when installing lift kits)...probably could still find some decent ones, but at this point, its been quite a few years since my taco generation was made. The new generation won't work I don't think (but more research would be needed).

Have you considered KYB Gas-A-Justs? I put them in the rear and just sitting side by side with Bilstein struts they were both nice, no negatives to either that I could see. A set for your Tacoma is pretty cheap even at full retail, and if you wanted to raise the front strut spacers for Tacomas are readily available: https://www.shocksurplus.com/products/kyb-gas-a-just-monotube-strut-shocks-set-2005-2015-toyota-tacoma-4wd?variant=14545540186161&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwLucpfzF6AIVDcJkCh1nhQ1AEAQYASAB EgL6TvD_BwE

The guy in this video helped me decide when I was researching if they were a good idea and not just a good price:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qR0mdFszNVA

[Java]

Started hearing a light clunk from the passenger front on bumps, found a bad bushing in the upper control arm. The arm comes as an assembly with a new balljoint. It was surprisingly easy to replace, just two bolts and the ball joint nut, all three came out without drama.

[open_circuit]

Nice! pressing the bushings into my axle when we replaced the upper control arms on the Jeep in the fall was a chore.

[Java]

I'm sure it was a lot of work, they always are. The new arm was only $90.00, bushings and a ball joint would be about $60.00, so it wasn't really much of a decision.

[Java]

The clunk did not go away, infact it got worse, so I ended up replacing both from sway bar end links and the lower control arm. The LCA was a total *****, I spent a few hours cutting one of the bolts off. I had to cut through the hardened sleeve as well, and there was not a lot of room for it. the other end I cut where the nut was. Three titanium dremel bits and five sawzall Thick Metal blades later it's out and replaced, the noise is gone. :thumb:

I'll put up better pics, here's the bolt and LCA for now. It passed all the balljoint tests aside from making a noise on bumps, but did turn out to be the problem. I believe it was the bushing around the seized bolt I cut off that was causing the noise, it was twisted inside the arm and locked tight to the bolt.

[Brian]

Yeet! :eek: I like how you keep that Xterra fresh.

[JGRubicon]

Wow, what an effort. Glad the clunk is gone.

[Tom]

Wow, what an effort. Glad the clunk is gone.
Ditto.

[Java]

After the big noise was gone I noticed a few small ones and got a little OCD on the front end. I tightened every bolt I could see, added cable ties to some wire routing, and replaced the sway bar bushings and end links and the brake pads. I took off the front bumper to get to some things, and while it was off I bought some paint and refreshed it. I used Rustoleum Universal in Satin Black, Satin Nickle, and Black Stainless Steel. Straighted out and repainted the front skid plate in Satin Black as well. I love the way the paint looks, I hope it's durable. It's also silent now, not a single creak or squeak anywhere. Next are rear brake pads and rear diff drain / refill.

[Java]

Trail damage from Bald Mountain Gulch, a pretty easy trail. Upper ball joint broke, it was probably just it's moment, and by the time we got it back it spread to the lower ball joint, lower control arm bushings, sway bar end link and bushing, and the caliper / rotor / pads. I've never heard a bad sway bar end link before, it sounds like the whole truck is falling apart. Nice surprise on the trail. The lower control arm was predictably difficult, I tried for less than a minute to remove the bolts before using a cutoff wheel and sawzall on both bolts. Four cuts later I've decided I'm never doing lower control arms again. Just waiting on parts for the brakes, should be done today.

[Jim]

The PILE of busted blades says way too much.

[Java]

On the plus side I've replaced both control arms / ball joints on both sides, new struts, new everything but steering links. Should last a long time... :lmao: