Jeep Clutch Sound

[Java]

My Jeep is a 2006 LJ 6 speed, 64k, original clutch. It is functioning fine, no slipping, full power, but when the pedal is not depressed it makes a sound like someone is sanding my skidplates lightly, sounds like wax-on. When I put the pedal in the noise stops 90%, but once my foot is off the pedal, in gear or not it comes back and continues when I'm driving. The change is only caused by the pedal and the only symptom is sound. The pedal feels fine too. I'm guessing it's my throwout bearing?

Any advice is appreciated!

Thanks!!

[Chris]

Throwout bearing?

[Hypoid]

It can't hurt to climb under there and look for anything that may be loose.

[The StRanger]

X2. Throughout bearing.
With 64K Id check with valve train warranty 1st..

[Java]

It's a 2006, the warranty is over by a few years. It has low miles because (not trying to show off) I drive a 12 year old Taurus around during the day to keep miles off it. It's a magic car, it can make any man invisible to women. The Jeep has low miles, but they're all bad. I got it from a Hyundai dealer in Houston, Texas with 30k on it and 6k of warranty left a few years ago; I have no idea what the first 30 were like, but with me all it does is wheel and drive to places to wheel, and it's paid for so I'm not always as careful as I could be. I guess I already know I'm replacing the clutch. :(

Any idea what a full clutch replacement on an 06 Wrangler costs? Any shop recommendations? Clutch brand recommendations? I will probably do it myself with NAPA parts, but I'm not excited about it, a good price would sway me. Found a great video about it:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyk9ngjlR7Q

[The StRanger]

Its not to bad as long as Its in the air. Never done one on the floor.

[dieseldoc]

the throughput bearimgs in 04-06 modles are noisy.
mine had 62k on it when I bought it. And it spunds like the bearing is trashed
it now has 109k on it still sounds the same.
press the petal and it quite.

most shops will want hourly rate
the book time is 5 hours.

pm sent

[Java]

A reputable mechanic made me an offer I can't refuse, so labor is covered. :thumb:

What brand of clutch kit would you? As I understand it LUK is the OEM supplier?

[Robert B]

if you want to upgrade im a fan of the centerforce dual friction clutch

[dieseldoc]

centerforce is a good clutch.
luk product is ok.

[The StRanger]

We use LUK or Napa..
Both are good. If you want to step up , You cant go wrong with Centerforce..

[Patrolman]

Just a thought, have you tried to make an adjustment to the clutch pedal? That might help, but in the long run as others have said, you likely need a clutch job.

If the pedal is out of adjustment, the throwout bearing is going to be in contact with the pressure plate tines all the time, and will make it wear prematurely. Make sure it is adjusted correctly after it is done.

[dieseldoc]

Hydrolic clutch in these.

[Java]

Ive been reading up on this and apparently you don't resurface the flywheels on TJs / LJs and some other Jeeps when you change the clutch. I had never heard of that before, but two guys in this thread reference the FSM on it.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/should-i-have-my-flywheel-machined-41541.html

[Hypoid]

Sounds like having a new flywheel on hand might be a good idea.

[Patrolman]

Even though it is hydraulic, there should still be an adjustment on the pedal. If it is out of adjustment one direction, it can wear out the throwout bearing prematurely (most common). If it is out of adjustment the other direction the gears can be difficult to shift (less likely). The FSM should give the measurements for the pedal and how to adjust it.

[dieseldoc]

Will have to check the adjustment stuff.....
Have not seen any thing under tha dash.....
And a the slave cylinder has some room I think.

The jeep fly wheel is very hard tinsel strenght.
Most of they we bust the glazing with a good 36 grit pad and the grinder to get a good serfface again.

[Patrolman]

I did a Google search a bit for clutch pedal adjustment. Every vehicle that I have owned that had a hydraulic clutch also had an adjustment on the pedal. Most of the results I found said there is no adjustment on the Jeep. I simply can't believe that. It is typically VERY hard to find the adjuster. It is located at the top of the pedal so high up under the dash that you might have to be upside down to see it. Here is a great photo showing it near the steering column on another car.

http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/pedal-height.htm#step2

[dieseldoc]

The jeep use a solid rod....no adjustment up there.....
Most of the new stuff is set up to self adjust.....stupid I know.
Would prefer it to adjust.
The clutch pucks are so dam thin now days. They want you to replace it every few years.
I know some folks that are on the 3rd clutch in theres 04 w/120k on the clock.
I have the factory clutch at 109k on it!
But I float the shift when ever I can.

[Patrolman]

Yeah, it appears to be different which is silly. A clutch that is not adjusted properly will eventually lead to premature failure. The best info that I could find was a schematic online of the clutch pedal system. IF there is an adjustment it is built in as part of the "captured bushing". That may rotate to make an adjustment, but does not seem likely based on the other info I saw.

http://s189.photobucket.com/user/Slithering_Joe/media/ClutchActuatorBushing.png.html

[dieseldoc]

I hear you on the no adjustments making it fail faster.
Yet the clucth the factory put in these things has very little puck to them.
Messure both side as one and I bet its less than 1/4" thick.

The clutches we put in the bog trucks are near 3/8" thick each disck set. With them being duals this gives us 3/4" of pucks to have adjustments in it.
Thus why a beavy duty clutch will run half million miles and more.

[Java]

Just ordered parts for this from amazon, I don't have time to go to the store and they have good returns and such. Hopefully I got good prices, came out to about $150.00.

Anything missing? Thanks!

this is the part that failed, apparently the clutch kits all come with the OEM style that has a plastic inner sleeve. This one is all metal National 614093 Clutch Release Bearing Assembly (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/gp/product/B000BZIQ4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

$33.99




clutch kit, OEM. Mine is functioning perfectly, I'm only changing it due to opportunity, I don't think I need to upgrade. Not buying a new flywheel either. LuK 05-065 Clutch Kit (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/gp/product/B000CICYZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
$87.23


Other stuff that is just being replaced due to opportunity, all is working fine:

Omix-Ada 16914.07 Clutch Fork (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/gp/product/B000FQ7BQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
$18.84

Crown Automotive 52087542 Clutch Release Pivot (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/gp/product/B00B8X7RY0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Sold by: Morris 4x4 Center
$4.99

Crown Automotive 4338855 Clutch Throwout Fork Spring (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/gp/product/B0094QJNLS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Sold by: Morris 4x4 Center
$1.99

not sure about these being part of this, but they came up in some reviews, so better to have them on hand and not need them...

2 of Crown Automotive 53004810 Transfer Case Shift Lever Bushing; (http://www.frontrange4x4.com/gp/product/B009X1UYT4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Sold by: Morris 4x4 Center
$0.99

[96EXXLTinCO]

I don't know much about Jeeps, but I'd be putting in a rear main as well. I hate dropping the trans and will replace every friggin thing I can in there while it's out.

[Brucker]

Not buying a new flywheel either.


Be sure to at least get your flywheel resurfaced. This is a must.

[dieseldoc]

Aaron- the flywheel jeep used 04-06 is super hard.
But I will be surrfacing it when we do this the weekend of the 17th.
Dealerships pull them ans grind them bench top to bust the glazing off.
These clutches are so thin that if you ran the pucks off the thing wont grab at all.

Rear mains on the newer 4.ol are easy to do and much better than the older ones.
Generaly if your main seals are leaking you are high mileage and the lower crank bearings are worn thus dropping the crank just a touch and thus the seal leaks.....

[Patrolman]

Consider the front transmission seal as well. Depending on how they look, often times I will go ahead and replace them. Now is the time to do it.

[Java]

I've ordered a fuel filter and a front transmission seal, any other suggestions? Thanks for the input! :thumb:

http://www.amazon.com/GKI-GF70-Fuel-Filter/dp/B0076I31MS/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Jeep%7C42&Model=Wrangler%7C356&Year=2006%7C2006&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X1S95K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

And a big thanks to Brandon for doing this. I was going to give it a whack myself at http://www.diyautorepairshops.com/ but Brandon can do it so much faster and more efficiently than I can (even if everything went right for me the first time, I've never done a clutch before and I'm not a real mechanic and for me this is a big deal) that his price beats it even with the higher hourly rate.

[dieseldoc]

Am happy to help you out.
I wish More places were affordable and quality.
Its rediculas how expencive maintenance has become, let alone major work....
A clutch job shouldn't have 1500 in labor....we have seen cost on the big trucks go into the 3k range for a clutch job.....

[Java]

Got some parts in, including the clutch kit with the OEM style throwout bearing and a replacement / upgrade from National. Wow, no wonder it failed. The OEM one is a bunch of stamped steel and plastic, the upgrade is a cast piece with little to fail. The difference is quality is upsetting, I can't believe Jeep used such a crappy part.

first pic has the OEM on the left, upgrade on the right. Upgrade is only $33.00.

[Robert B]

many wear parts run plastic to not damage the parts they ride on as the new one will do and mine has always made noise but works fine :P

[Java]

IDK, opinions vary. It's a common problem for Jeeps, including the JKs. Some of the posts agree with you, some are opposite, and everything in between. I have both, I guess it will be a game time decision, but I'm liking the national so far side-by-side. Mopar switched to a cast housing too, but the National gets better reviews, like this one.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBf-jR9xwio

[dieseldoc]

33 bucks seems little tell you multiply that over a 300,000 unit run for a year.
At 9,900,000 a year for a $33 part.....thus why the factory specs the cheaper Art.

He'll GMC in there intimate wisdom depleted the PTO heat in the alision transmission.
A $75 savings to the factory will now cost a guy $2500 to have it put back to run hydrolics.....

Wear Parts are Wear Parts. Us Heavy duty guys build our stuff to a low easy Parts changes for Wear Parts.
Like an input shaft for the transmission, undo a Snap run and out it comes....no need to open the trans do do it!

[Java]

Got all the parts in, ready to go. :thumb:

[Rick]

:thumb:

[dieseldoc]

Sweet.
Shoour be a good day for wrenching.....

[Java]

looking forward to it, see you in the AM :thumb:

[dieseldoc]

So jeep used a odd ball 8 point inverted socket bolt on the top 2 bell House bolts.
So had to put Paul's jeep back together tell next week.
Ya know the old adage the right tool for the job!
Small set back but it will go easy.

Did a inspection and he has a craving caliper on the right side,and a lower left ballpoint going bad.
Not bad for an 06 TJU
Next weekend this thing will be done.

[Java]

These are the bolts up top, if anyone runs into it too http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/what-size-star-external-torx-bolts-top-ax-15-transmission-1069058/
here they are on an LJ like mine http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/threads/9838-06-LJ-clutch-replacement

Brandon- next weekend isn't going to work, it got worse on the way home the pedal feels like it's filing something, I'm not driving it any further. My wife's Xterra went to Nissan this morning for that sound I told you about so we're down to my POS DD and a rental. I need it done, its getting towed to a shop this afternoon. Thanks anyway for trying, good effort! :thumb:

[dieseldoc]

sorry man. Thanks for the work.

[Java]

I've ended up DIYing this, and I'm doing a lot of other stuff while I'm at. I'm switching the Transfercase to 5w-30 Mobil 1 engine oil, and since I developed a rearmain and valve cover leak in my engine as soon as I switched it to Mobil 1 I'm taking it as a lesson and resealing the transfercase while it's out. Also cleaned, de-rusted and undented my skids.

[Java]

The bolt that shut down the first effort, and E 14. There are two of them, I pulled the transfercase and lowered the rear of the transmission for a better angle. It's a short straight shot to them now. The passenger side is fine, it's soaking in PB Blaster, hopefully it will come right out (haven't tried yet). The drivers side one is cut on one side from the air hammer, and the whole thing is rounded off. I tried an E 14, but it spun pretty quickly. I modified it a little with a dremel, steam cleaned it, then filled a 12 point 3/8 socket (best fit I could find, domestic or metric) with JB Weld and hammered it on. That's where I left it today, when it's cured tomorrow I'll see if it worked. If not it's real weld time...

[dieseldoc]

Looks good Paul.
Hope the bolt let's go.
If not let me know I will get you an extra of the corect socket to weld to it.

[Hypoid]

and hammered it onFirst time I encountered these bolts, they made me cry: http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?5235-So-I-went-muddin-today

My dad's old trick really works! Take a hammer, hit the bolt head like it is a nail that you want to drive home. After a few good hits, it will break loose with minor fuss.

EDIT: I still have those extractors, if you need to go that far...

[dieseldoc]

That would be called waking the bolt.
Good Idea for sure.

[Hypoid]

That old thread has a dead link: http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=67&division=1&category=11

I don't remember how much I paid for mine, but it worth every penny the first (only) time I used it.

[The StRanger]

wakabolt.

That Phuunie rat ther..

[dieseldoc]

Waking the bolt.....

New phone and the dam auto correct is a major PITA!

[Chris]

Why don't folks don't turn off auto-correct?

I know people hate it making them look stupid but they still leave it on, crazy!

[dieseldoc]

no LAZY

[Java]

The bolt that shut down the first effort, and E 14. There are two of them, I pulled the transfercase and lowered the rear of the transmission for a better angle. It's a short straight shot to them now. The passenger side is fine, it's soaking in PB Blaster, hopefully it will come right out (haven't tried yet). The drivers side one is cut on one side from the air hammer, and the whole thing is rounded off. I tried an E 14, but it spun pretty quickly. I modified it a little with a dremel, steam cleaned it, then filled a 12 point 3/8 socket (best fit I could find, domestic or metric) with JB Weld and hammered it on. That's where I left it today, when it's cured tomorrow I'll see if it worked. If not it's real weld time...


Fail. I just got back into this today, for all of 5 minutes. Round two tomorrow, extractors hopefully, then welding a nut on if not. Good thing I have a DD!

[Hypoid]

I even drove past your house today! I helped a bud who lives off 29th and Java, decided to take 29th westbound, had the toolbox and everything...

[Java]

Thanks Mike, I bought a set of extractors just have to get on it. I appreciate the thought! :thumb:

[Java]

if your name is Bolt, my name is Daddy.


http://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-38-in-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-socket-set-67894.html

[Patrolman]

Awesome!

[Jim]

Such a good feeling when a stubborn fastener "gives way"!

[Tom]

Way to go, Paul.

[dieseldoc]

Nice Paul.
Glad it's come out.
Good luck for the rest of it.

[Java]

Such a good feeling when a stubborn fastener "gives way"!

I literally lol'd. :lmao:

[Java]

So is there a trick to separating the transmission from the engine? All the write ups I read they say they "slid it backwards" which has so far been impossible. Everything is disconnected, I've checked it 10 times and it's in neutral, nothing but tradition keeping it on as far as I can tell. I'm about ready to use the winch...

[dieseldoc]

Some times a ratchet strap will do it. Or a come along.
The clutch dust will deal the ball house making it feel like it's still bolted up.
Small moves if you use the winch.

[96EXXLTinCO]

Just a lil wiggling usually gets its started for me, then it's all gravy from there.

[Java]

I beat the crap out of the perimeter of the bell housing with a rubber mallet, heated up the sides where the guides are, moved the jack and bench pressed it on angles until it came loose, then worked myself out and the jack back under it. There was a layer of something acting as an adhesive between the surfaces, I'm guessing related to the rear main seal leak I fixed in 2014, the bellhousing is pretty grimy inside. And the throwout bearing is definitely shot, sounds like a little box of rocks.

[dieseldoc]

time to clean it up.
A slight hit of antiseize would be a good Idea to.
I love that stuff.

[Java]

progress, it's all disassembled except for the flywheel, it looks perfect so I'm going to just emery cloth and degrease it in place. I don't have a pilot bearing puller so I'll be doing this tomorrow:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfDV982g4XM

some pics, the transmission out and cleaned- it still has a heavy film of oil all over the inside, I'll get on that but it's clean enough to work on. I can't roll it out from under the Jeep on the jack, but I can reach it well enough. :) I'm going to replace the clutch pivot and input seal along with the fork, springs and bearing. You can see the old clutch next to the new one, the LUK is thicker and has a lot more surface area and some visible differences that are all in favor of the LUK. It feels better all around compared to the OEM which has the brand name Sachs on it. You can see what failed in the throwout bearing, the plastic liner disintergrated. I put the options next to it, smaller plastic or solid steel, seems like a NB.

[96EXXLTinCO]

Nice work Paul!! Clutch went out in my 2001 Eclipse Spyder GT back around 2008/2009 or so. All I could afford at the time was a cheapy Auto Zone clutch. I spent a weekend at work in the shop getting it in. It lasted about 1.5 years. I swore I would never do the clutch in that car again, so off to my buddies' shop it went. He put a LUK in it and that's what is still in today, no problems. From now on, if I can't afford a LUK at the time, I'll wait till I can!! Good luck with the rest of it.

[Java]

Even though it is hydraulic, there should still be an adjustment on the pedal. If it is out of adjustment one direction, it can wear out the throwout bearing prematurely (most common). If it is out of adjustment the other direction the gears can be difficult to shift (less likely). The FSM should give the measurements for the pedal and how to adjust it.

Chicken dinner!! :thumb: Just ordered a new rod from Moparpartsgiant.com to address this.

I found this here: http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84046


Ok so apparently there is a TSB concerning incorrect factory preload on throw-out bearing (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K5QFVXU).

Adding a washer or spacer to the pivot stud (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FQ7QWO). Extending the pivot side of the forks and increasing the angle to the slave cylinder, to create more clearance between Throw-out bearing and pressure plate springs. At least that is what I gather from the TSB.


This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repairhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png (http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84046#). No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system,
or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without written permission of DaimlerChrysler Corporation.
SUBJECT:
Squeal-Like Sound Due To Incorrect Pre-Load On Clutch Throw-Out Bearing (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031BQNHO)
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves diagnosing the clutch throw-out bearing for an incorrect pre-load
condition and making the appropriate repairshttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png (http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84046#).
MODELS:
2007 (JK) Wrangler
2006 (TJ) Wrangler
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a NSG370 manual
transmission (sales code DEH).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer may experience a squeal-like sound coming from the clutch throw-out
bearing when the clutch pedal is fully released.
DIAGNOSIS:
1. Firmly set the vehiclehttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png (http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84046#) parking brake (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=parking%2Bbrake).
2. Shift the transmission into neutral.
3. Depress the clutch pedal and start the vehicle enginehttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png (http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84046#).
4. With the transmission in neutral, release the clutch pedal
5. Is a squeal-like sound present and is it coming from the clutch throw-out bearing (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031BQNHO)?
a. If YES >>> then proceed to the next step.
b. If NO >>> then this bulletin does not apply. Further diagnosis is required.
6. With the transmission in neutral and engine running, slowly depress the clutch pedal.
NOTE: If the pre-load is incorrect on the throw-out bearing, then the squeal-like
sound should stop when the clutch pedal is depress by an inch or more.
7. Does the throw-out bearing (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K5QFVXU) squeal-like sound disappear once the clutch pedal is
depressed by an inch or more?
a. If YES >>> then perform the Repair Procedure
b. If NO >>> then this Bulletin does not apply. The squeal-like sound is not caused by
incorrect pre-load on the throw-out bearing. Further diagnosis is required.
NUMBER: 06-002-07
GROUP: Clutch
DATE: February 27, 2007
PARTS REQUIRED:
Qty. Part No. Description
1 68031889AA Rod, Clutch Slave Cylinder Actuator (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009XIVET6) (TJ)
2 06100882 Washer, Spacer (JK)
(AR) 2 04874464 Lubricant, Mopar Manual Transmission (MS-9224) -
(JK)
1 04318032 Adhesive, Stud N' Bearing Mount (JK)
(AR) 1 53008342 Bearing, Throw-out (JK)
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
TJ PROCEDURE:
1. With the vehicle transmission a neutral position, raise the vehicle on a suitable lift.
2. Remove the mounting nuts used to secure the slave cylinder to the transmission bell
housing.
3. As an assembly, remove the slave cylinder, hydraulic line, and actuator rod from the
transmission bell housing (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPB7ZK).
4. Replace the slave cylinder actuator rod.
5. Install the slave cylinder to the transmission bell housing.
6. Verify that the actuator rod is properly seated to the clutch release fork (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIUQYSI).
7. Install the slave cylinder mounting nuts. Tighten the nuts to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Verify clutch system operates correctly.
JK PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the manual transmission. Refer to TechCONNECT for detailed removal
procedures. Select the Service Info tab > 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case >
Manual Transmission - NSG370 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0UYSL2) > Removal.
2. Remove the clutch throw-out bearing and clutch release fork from the transmission.
3. Remove the clutch release fork pivot stud with cone washer from the transmission.
4. Inspect the pivot stud and cone washer closely. Note the orientation of the cone
washer on the pivot stud (opens towards transmission housing).
5. Clean the release fork pivot stud threads.
6. Noting cone washer orientation, remove the existing cone washer from the pivot stud (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FQ7QWO)
and install the two (2) new washers (as spacers) to the pivot stud.
7. Install the existing cone washer on to the release fork pivot (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G09C07G) stud. Verify that the cone
washer opens towards the transmission housing.
8. Apply Stud N' Bearing Mount Adhesive to the threads of the release fork pivot.
9. Install the release fork pivot (with 2 washers and 1 cone washer) to the transmission.
Tighten the fork pivot to 20 Nm (14.75 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: The cone washer should be against the transmission housing and
under/below the two spacing washers when pivot stud is installed to
transmission.
10. Lubricate the input shaft splines, throw-out bearing (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K5QFVXU) retainer slide surface, release fork
and release fork pivot (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G09C07G) surface.
06-002-07 -2-
11. Inspect the throw-out bearing. Rotate the bearing to determine if bearing rotation is
smooth or rough. Replace the throw-out bearing if bearing rotation is rough.
12. Install the release fork and throw-out bearing to the transmission.
13. Install the manual transmission. Refer to TechCONNECT for detailed removal
procedures. Select the Service Info tab > 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case >
Manual Transmission - NSG370 > Installation.
14. Verify transmission fluid (http://www.amazon.com/gp/search?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=automotive&keywords=transmission%2Bfluid&linkCode=ur2) level.
15. Verify clutch system operates correctly.
POLICYhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png (http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84046#):
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No: Description Amount
06-40-05-90 Replace - Hydraulic Clutch
Actuator Rod - TJ (B)
0.4 Hrs.
06-40-05-91 Replace - Clutch Release
Bearing and Add Shims - JK 4x2
(B)
2.4 Hrs.
06-40-05-92 Replace - Clutch Release
Bearing and Add Shims - JK 4x4 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N367JNE)
(B)
3.5 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE:
ZZ Service Action
-3- 06-002-07

[Java]

so it turns out my 06 jeep is too old, they don't make this part anymore. I got this email this morning:

"Thank you for ordering parts with us.
We are writing to inform you that order C601686 has been voided. Your order has been voided because of the following reason(s): The ordered part(s) have been discontinued (no longer available) and/or is backordered with no ETA date by the manufacture.

If you have further questions, contact us (http://www.moparpartsgiant.com/service/contact.html).

Regards,
Customer Service
Moparpartsgiant.com"

so it seems the fix is to replace the whole assembly:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2006,wrangler,4.0l+l6,1432231,transmission-manual,clutch+master+and+slave+cylinder+assembly,1 0290


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3o5EZzyAS6c

[dieseldoc]

Nice work Paul.
Good to see you got the better clutch.
The luck has dam near dubble the surface area.
Keep plugging away at it.
You will be very happy when you are said and done.
Better clutch and the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

[Java]

so the bread / pilot bearing trick actually works. the bolt with duct tape does not, I switched to an aluminum drift that was a tighter fit, banged it and rebreaded it a couple of times, and it worked. FYI less than one slice of wheat bread, not sure how much white or muffin it would take. :) Easy clean up too, some PB Blaster on a paper towel dissolved the remaining bread.

Next issue, the drain plug on the transmission is frozen in place, it started stripping the second I started turning it. It uses a 17mm Allen head or bolt and that area is what is rounding out. I think I'm going to tip it sideways and drain it from the fill hole and just not deal with the drain.

[dieseldoc]

Nice trick.

[Patrolman]

That is a great trick!

On the transmission bolt, try some propane heat. That has worked some for me in the past. Typically before I pull any trans/t-case I make sure that I can both the drain plug and fill plugs loose. I made the mistake long ago of draining a transmission and then couldn't get the fill plug out!

[Java]

the never ending project continues, I've really got no time for this so ofcourse it keeps demanding more... I got the clutch and pilot bearing in, got the transmission drain plug out and replaced the input shaft seal. :thumb: Just about done when the stud for the clutch pivot snapped off inside the housing. You can see it broke flush inside and protrudes just a little outside. I tried getting an extractor on the outside and just continuing but it's too short, the extractor spun. Looks like it's a trip to Harbor Freight tomorrow for drill bits and easy outs. It's always something! :bang:

[Java]

So in the interest of this project never ******* ending, the stud for the clutch pivot is broken off in the housing and I drilled it, put in an extractor and broke that off too. That was a bear to get out, no drill bits would cut the broken extractor, I killed my dremel grinding it down and finally managed to get past it; drilled all the way through the bolt, then expanded that hole and tried another extractor. It won't budge, and the hole is offcenter so I can't expand it anymore without damaging the housing. I've tried heat, hammer, chisel and extractors, now I have a drilled out bolt in a messed up hole. I'm not sure what to do next, I'm going to try a small file to just destroy the rest of the bolt. Any ideas? Although I'm hesitant to try another one, anybody know any shops that can handle this? I'll probably have to get the hole welded (aluminum) and redrilled.

[Hypoid]

Get another dremel, a carbide bit, and keep working on the bolt. Once you get the bolt out, buy, or have a shop install a TIME-SERT (http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html).

http://www.timesert.com/images/kits/mtrcsert/image003.jpg

Count your blessings Paul; this happened at home. ;)

[Java]

good advice all around, Mike. :thumb: I am lucky it's in my garage and not on the side of the road.

[Hypoid]

After sleeping on the idea, I have to wonder how much aluminum will be left after boring for a TIMESERT or a Helicoil. Try to preserve the surrounding aluminum while you are working on the bolt.

I'll be in you neighborhood again today, looking for a coolant leak on an XJ.

[Java]

bought a new dremel today and two carbide bits, just incase. I won't have time again to work on it until Thursday, hopefully I'll get this done then. Carefully...

[Java]

I got a break this week and got out of Jury Duty early (hooray!) so I had time today to get this done. A big thanks to Mike for suggesting the dremel / carbide bit, it ate up the old bolt so quickly I had to use it on low. I cut the bolt across from the lopsided hole I already made until I could see threads, then heated it up with a heat gun for a long time. It began to separate from the heat, then I beat it up with a punch and hammer until it pulled away a little more. I got it out from the outside with a screwdriver, cleaned it up with a tap and had a lot of solid thread left in the case. I filled the hole and covered the new pivot with JB Weld, and put a nut on the outside filled with JB Weld too as backup. :thumb: There is a slim chance I'll make the anniversary run if I can rearrange the next couple of days and finish up.

[dieseldoc]

wow paul sorry to see you are having so many issues with your transmission.
I hope you can get this thing back up and running soon.

[96EXXLTinCO]

wow paul sorry to see you are having so many issues with your transmission.
I hope you can get this thing back up and running soon.

Is this the Jeep thing I keep hearing so much about? LOL.

Nice job paul, not an easy task to tackle for sure. Hope to see you up there this weekend!!

[Brad]

Sorry it was such a pain Paul! This sailed under my radar or I would have come over to help. Glad you got it sorted.

[Java]

Got the transmission wrapped up, new bearing, pivot, fork and all. Replaced the fluid with Royal Purple, it all went well. Then I went to drain and refill the transfercase with Mobil 1 per the Novak recommendation and found that the harmonic balancer is damaged. That's messed up because its way up out of the way above a skid plate and I've never had rear driveshaft damage. But it looks like it got hit from the front somehow and the rubber is broken and the whole assembly is askew, it rotates like a bent Frisbee on the shaft. This is truly Murphy's Clutch.

$140.00 surprise http://www.morris4x4center.com/damper-np231-transfer-case-5017819aa.html?gclid=CIOO-uT9pMsCFQ8yaQodaGwOjQ

So no anniversary run for me. :(

[Java]

just FYI I found a great answer on what the vibration damper on the transfercase output shaft from 2000-2006 does here http://forums.off-road.com/jeep-short-wheelbase/207298-harmonic-balancer-transfer-case.html from one of the engineers that worked on it:

"It was used for two reasons. It was to dampen a low frequency vibration coming from the T-case. If memory serves correct it is 55hz. It also takes the place of the tin washer in the slinger seal. the one that the flared rubber seal rides against. This damper is also used on some XJ's. It was designed by the Hillsdale Tool division of Eagle Picher Automotive, for New Venture Gear in Syracuse NY. I was the engineer that set-up the production line on this part. Two double spindle cnc lathes, and an assembly press to put the rubber in. Oh yeah, a vertical cnc machining center to drill and tap those dreaded puller holes. They were hard to keep in the right position because they are very close to the rim of the hub. I think I have a part at home, and I'm sure I have prints of it still. FYI, there is a very similar damper on Libertys also. "

[dieseldoc]

Dam it man, just one thing after another.
Sorry you,won't be out for the anniversary run.

[Jim]

BUMMER!!!

[Java]

it is what it is, I just keep thinking of an easy summer with a lot of new parts not failing on the trail. :thumb: The goal is to be ready for Moab 4/1!

[dieseldoc]

All you can do is keep plugging away at it.
Might be time for SYE as you have a bent ballencer....

[Java]

Everything happens for a reason. I found this u joint this morning, lower front driveshaft. It would have broken down on the trail today, no doubt about it. The caps were so frozen on I had to use PB Blaster, vice grips and a hammer to open it up. Glad I missed the anniversary run, turns out atleast part of it would have sucked for me! :thumb:

[Hypoid]

Was that a "lifetime lubricated" U-joint? Looks like it had a good life! :D

[Jim]

Good you found that U-Joint and pulled it from service!

Does your front DS spin when you're in 2HI? If yes, failure looked to be close at hand.

[Java]

it was an "unserviceable" one, but I just pull the caps off of those and grease them individually. IDK if it rotates the entire time, but it was frozen, rusted and dry. I have no idea what might have caused that...

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/942340_10201388848626618_1192715414_n.jpg?oh=7ea88 8db109f515a9b250dcb83a15a94&oe=57676635

[Jim]

IMO, you have your head screwed on straight - one sacrificed u-joint - that pic is worth it!

[dieseldoc]

wow man, the deeper you go the worse it seems to get.
Glad you are getting it done before Moab.
Now you should have a good trip with no failures.

We had a good day out at China wall.
Maybe next year Paul.

[Java]

got it all done, ready to install it this weekend. The damper cost $12.60 to pull, had to buy 6 6mm bolts and connector sleeves to make long enough bolts for the puller. While it was off I replaced the seal behind it. The end of the shaft is tapped for a 3/8 bolt for whatever reason, so I took advantage of that and made a simple tool from a bolt, washers, nut and a short piece of tube with a washer welded to the end. I heated the center of the new damper with a heat gun (figured the torch would be too much for the rubber) froze the shaft with mixed vegetables and greased it lightly. The damper pressed on easily. I also replaced the bad ujoint with a new ACDelco made in the USA greaseable one. Added a like spare to my kit too, and cleaned up every bolt associated with this on my bench grinder with a wire wheel.

Hopefully it goes together smoothly this weekend. I'm replacing the CPS while it's out, the good used one goes in my spares. I have ball joints and axle seals coming for next week, cage metal and a tune up. I'm trying to hit everything before the trails open. :thumb:

[xaza]

Dang Paul, Jeep has decided to push your potential and patience. Get er done, only a couple weeks until Moab.

[Patrolman]

Glad that you decided to do this yourself. I can't imagine what a shop would charge to do all the same work!

[dieseldoc]

he would be,3k into it,at a shop.

[Java]

Lots of progress today, the transmission, transfercase, linkage and new clutch master / slave installed. The slave has some straps on it that break on the first use, I almost screwed up and cut them but decided to read about it first and saved myself a headache- it's a pre-bled system, and if you cut those the rod goes too far out and air gets in. Just a heads up, it's the same part on JKs too. I also replaced the annoying E 14 bolts with some graded ones from ACE that have a standard 14mm head. Easy as pie to put in, should come out easily too. Everything got cleaned on a wire wheel and hit with blue Loctite where appropriate. Found some other small stuff- mangled electrical wrap on the O2 sensor wiring (did it's job, the wiring is fine!) some rust and loose stuff, all easy but time consuming. I ran out of gas before I got to the driveshafts and skids, but its all downhill from here. :thumb: I'm just under $500.00 total, about $440.00 in parts. I'm glad it's getting done, but if I had it over again I'd just get a new hobby. :lmao:

[Patrolman]

Did the new bolts have enough thread on them?

[Java]

Yes, almost like they were made for it. The unthreaded part is virtually the same as the thickness of the transmission case plus a small bracket for holding electrical wiring in place that goes on each bolt. I'm not sure why they used an E 14 or a fully threaded bolt to begin with.

[dieseldoc]

That way they have to sell you a secial tool.
Its all about money, that and keeping the end user from doing the work.
They (manufacturer) think they will keep more Dealership shop work.

[Hypoid]

That is a beautiful thing right there!

http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=42885&stc=1&d=1457833082

[Java]

That way they have to sell you a secial tool.
Its all about money, that and keeping the end user from doing the work.
They (manufacturer) think they will keep more Dealership shop work.

Actually its just external torx, they're readily available http://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-14-in-38-in-drive-impact-e-socket-set-67898.html my guess is that there is something about the assembly process that makes them easier to use. They are all over the transmission too, maybe it's a Mercedes thing (the tranny is a Mercedes Benz, built in Brazil). I have no idea, but it was very rewarding to throw them out.

[dieseldoc]

when they switched, the inverted torx was not readily avaiable.
They have gone to a splined inverted thing now....once again to force the shade tree or home mechanic to not do the work of speed on special tools.

The inverted Ford was sposed to allow the bolts to be torqued at a higher # with less efort on the line....I call BULL CRAP


Paul I,am glad to see it back in the truck and you save the couple grand to get it done.

Now go play with it and have a ton of fun.

[Java]

Finally done! :lmao: I still have the interior to put back together and clean up, but it's basically done. There is a double shift boot, and the inner one is attached to a large molded plastic base that has to be replaced as a single unit. Ofcourse mine is torn, and for 2005-6 it's $80.00 or so, only made by Mopar. Just Empty Every Pocket. I've cleaned up the old one and I'm going to take it to the parts store and match it up the the biggest CV boot they have in stock. I haven't test driven it yet, hopefully no more surprises coming...

[Brad]

Nice Paul! :thumb:

[Patrolman]

Glad that it is all done! There has to be an aftermarket supplier for shift boots, particularly if they are a common failure. If all else fails, go to Home Depot and hunt around in the plumbing or roofing aisles. I have found lots of innovative solutions there!

[Java]

probably the last post on this thread, it sucked but I'm glad it's done. The new stuff feels incredible, it's never been this smooth or easy to engage before. The new JK Master / Slave combo feels much better, I barely have to touch it to shift. The Mobil 1 swap in the t-case is actually noticeable, shifting is much smoother and easier.

So a $33.00 Throwout bearing morphed into:

Clutch kit
Clutch fork / pivot / retainer springs
transmission input seal
crankshaft position sensor
Master cylinder
slave cylinder
driveshafts- 1 u joint / service
transfer case input seal
rear t-case output seal
t-case damper
switched transmission and transfer case to synthetic fluids
O2 sensor wiring repair
new inner boot/ inspection plate
cleaned up / repainted frame
de-dented / repainted skid plates
torque check on every bolt I could see
chassis lube

[Java]

First time I encountered these bolts, they made me cry: http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?5235-So-I-went-muddin-today

My dad's old trick really works! Take a hammer, hit the bolt head like it is a nail that you want to drive home. After a few good hits, it will break loose with minor fuss.

EDIT: I still have those extractors, if you need to go that far...

This is the best thing to come from this thread- I've been keeping a big ballpeen hammer and two drifts around ever since and every bolt I've taken out, even some seriously rusted ones that were torqued with locktite and had not moved in years, caught a beating and came right out. Great trick!! :thumb: