05 LR3

[Brad]

Well I have been busy upgrading my rig, and have not really kept you guys in the loop with all I've done.
Mostly because a lot of the work has been prep work for future plans. Let me get you up to speed.
Started with my 05 LR3, came with the ARB bumper and sliders. I opted for this platform as I was impressed with the reliability of the engine. 4.4l V8 Jag engine that rarely leaks oil even at over 150k miles. Rare for a Land Rover product.
The air suspension allows for better highway cruising while selecting off-road handles the rough stuff easily as I recently found out in Moab.
First sight, all pretty and shiny.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/20712626-4B34-4E6A-88BD-5FCA62206A78.jpg
Tossed on some LED off-road combo lights. Including a special harness wired with a relay, tucked away in the main battery box. I'm trying to keep the excess wiring to a minimum in the engine area.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/E3B390D1-36E8-43EF-BB59-B585CE23A4B6.jpg
switch
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/CBB82FD0-7EA6-441C-B8A9-6799909620FD.jpg
and lights
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/8B1F99A9-CFDD-4081-B5FC-EBEC72994899.jpg
As my intention is to build this into a overland rig that can still off-road with I dove right in with the dual battery. As a house battery but eventually to help power the winch as well. I opted to mount the second battery in the drivers side area battery box as it is designed to be a battery box on right hand drive versions of this vehicle. Had to put a smaller group 31 battery as it is a shared space with the brake master and abs. Also added a blue sea automatic charging relay to isolate the second battery. I run a fridge freezer, 3 extra 12v outlets and house lights off the second battery with their own fuse block.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/D2FE03AC-B520-4733-B774-95C17321E47A.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/55A3BFC9-4EDF-470A-AA09-2429031E798F.jpg
All tucks away under the covers.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/1295AD83-7823-41DE-A190-488B5D102423.jpg

[Brad]

Through a generous gift card added the requisite hi lift. This actually happened before the lights.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/EC996490-7E17-4F7C-B13B-EB36F030A53F.jpg
Cargo lights run off house battery.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/17FF55D7-9880-42BD-8EA5-6BC44746F590.jpg
The rear cargo light even though I installed a LED is still dismal. So here's a nighttime shot to show the result.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/CC766E20-CF6D-430E-AF49-5DF386071F72_1.jpg
Switch for cargo lights.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/00A938D3-24D5-4575-9CDF-840E0C6FF1E6.jpg

[Brad]

As this rig is full of control modules, added my own tablet for diagnostics with a wifi interface. Keep it nicely tucked away in the smaller glove box on its own USB charger, only charges while driving.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/04624196-C380-4269-8546-3C047DAAB643.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/41B616A3-AE67-416B-9F8D-6ECF2ECB98FD.jpg
added my roof top tent
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/E7DAD171-2E1E-435B-AD91-75226149EE28.jpg
Recently added some new kicks.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/13B597CB-615E-4A72-95D2-E298917183F4.jpg
as she sits today.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/30D1A86D-5D6C-41A0-AA9C-26E3C82C3409.jpg

And anyone one who knows me, there is a incredibly long list of maintenance items that have been done including, brakes all the way around, 3 of 4 wheel bearings replaced, tie rod inner and outers, fluids all the way around.

[Patrolman]

Nice work Brad! The upgrades are all very smart options that make a big difference but don't change the look/feel of the rig much. I like those types of "hidden" mods.

[Jim]

Thumbs up - the rear illumination is one that'll be quite handy.

[Brian]

Pimping! :thumb:

[DETN8R]

Nice Rig Brad. Can't wait to see how the rest of it turns out.


Doink, Have I seen you rig parked outside of Wash Perk Coffee in Denver before? Last winter perhaps? I distinctly remember seeing an extremely well done white scout there one morning.

[DETN8R]

Edit: nevermind. I re-read the thread for the answer.

[Java]

Sweet rig!! :thumb: Logical start to what I'm sure will be a massive list of upgrades. I've got just over 30k on a set of duratracs on my Jeep and I think they're one of the best all around tires I've ever had.

[carpenle]

Looks good Brad :steer:

[dieseldoc]

nice work man.

[FINOCJ]

looking good!

[Chris]

Sweet rig!! :thumb: Logical start to what I'm sure will be a massive list of upgrades. I've got just over 30k on a set of duratracs on my Jeep and I think they're one of the best all around tires I've ever had.

Nice Brad!

DuraTracs are very popular and what I'm running right now. Unfortunately I've found the sidewalls to be very weak after having two replaced. Be aware of the issue, I'll never run them again.

[Brad]

Are you running LT E rated or standard load Chris?
Have a discussion on Expo about this.

[dieseldoc]

the Goodyear sidewalls are natorius for weakness.
Even in the rock crawl competition tires the side walls suck.
I have seen $700 comp tires with 40 plus plugs in the side wall from scrub oak in Utah.
And yet my load range E maxxis comp issue creepy crawlers have been through hell with just a slight tear in outside rubber of a side wall. the same spot ate 4 Goodyear tires in ten minutes!

[Chris]

Are you running LT E rated or standard load Chris?
Have a discussion on Expo about this.

To be honest I'd have to look (probably standard) but what was really annoying was when a small nail close to the tread edge was determined to be irrepairable by Discount. That's absurd.

[Java]

I started reading about the sidewalls after I already bought mine, so I've often carried one of my trailer tires as a second spare, just incase. mine are 33x12.50r15, C rated, and all my Jeep does is wheel, I have a DD. I usually run at 15-20lbs on the trail and 30 on the street and have not had a single issue with over 30k of wheeling all over CO and Utah. I've had a few nails in the tread, but I've found them visually before anything happened and plugged them. Maybe because my Jeep is (relatively) light?

[Brad]

Technically any nail outside the center tread area is irrepairable. If it's my tire? I plug it and move on. Given the LR3 is about 5800 lbs without all the gear added on a LT E tire is the minimum that should be run. I chose the duratracs as they do really well in snow and ice and it is my DD. I had the BFG MT KM2 on my 95 disco but once worn they lost all traction in snow and ice. A wheeling only tire was out of the question for me.

[Chris]

I started reading about the sidewalls after I already bought mine, so I've often carried one of my trailer tires as a second spare, just incase. mine are 33x12.50r15, C rated, and all my Jeep does is wheel, I have a DD. I usually run at 15-20lbs on the trail and 30 on the street and have not had a single issue with over 30k of wheeling all over CO and Utah. I've had a few nails in the tread, but I've found them visually before anything happened and plugged them. Maybe because my Jeep is (relatively) light?

Thus the reason tire threads are so frequent on all forums - one loves a tire, another hates the same one. ;)

[ExplorerTom]

Brad: the guy in your avatar picture (Jerry?). Is he running away from you?

[Brad]

I think I scared him! :thumb:

[Brad]

Well after a year I finally rebuilt my diff. With help from my good friend Morris we were able to sneak the diff out. My exhaust is welded as one piece thanks to the idiot who put on the full magnaflow with cats and destroyed my manifolds, but that's another story and will be corrected this winter.


Amazing that there wasn't more bearing damage considering l knew they were worn and kept driving on them figuring if it ever got louder I would address it immediately. Never did.


In case you are wondering the green lube is redline shockproof lightweight. It was recommended to me but in hindsight I wish I had kept with factory fluid. I switched back to factory fluid and will be changing it regularly.


After removing the diff and removing the case bolts:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/BF2CEC89-152B-4C36-9179-2FDE9B223B48.jpg


First look inside housing. Can see the paint peeling inside. I ran the whole setup through the parts washer and sandblasted inside the case while it was completely disassembled:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/210EDA6A-4F9E-4CC7-8BE9-260498EF6A56.jpg


Cover after the parts washer. Again I sandblasted off the remaining paint:http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/55678230-09A4-481F-8D62-F918390ADB82.jpg


Moisture inside the case which mixed with the shockproof causing a thick slime. No doubt moisture had a role in the degradation of the bearings:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/BA19F6F9-A44E-49F8-B6A3-552ECB174E85.jpg


Race wear:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/73072A8A-B78F-4024-8725-06C9EF89155E.jpg


This is the worst bearing. It was the right output bearing:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c112/flipswitch/LR3%20build/77D46109-BB27-44CE-9136-BB2EB2F5FCDB.jpg


Installation of the PDR kit was easy. You need a shop press some race drivers that fit (I improvised from a hub tamer kit) and a bearing splitter and removal pullers. Overall it took me 8-9 hours but I added some clean up of the case and had to deal with a one piece exhaust. Well that and I was on day 6 of automotive repair. Noise is gone. Diff works well. On a DIY list I would rate it as difficult. I have a complete shop at my disposal and the instructions are almost non existent. If you have done diffs ( this was my fifth including a 2016 Range Rover) then you should be fine. You need to know what kind of tension should be on the pinion as there is no spec sheet from the factory.