BJ40 engine drive mod. project

[78bj40]

I might be over my head with this project but I’ll try it. I just received the newer 1KD-FTV Toyota diesel engine with 5 speed manual, looks good but I need to figure out how to start it. It is a complete engine with ECU and all, I need to work on the ignition connections, luckily this is a newer engine and all tech docs are available. So here we go; this is going to be the replacement for my BJ40, as for who wheeled with me knows that I’m not happy with the lack of power on my existing engine, it only puts out around 60HP vs the new 178HP (heck, I might actually be able to drive it on the road with speed higher than my current 40MPH). First sight, the transfer case front output shaft is on the wrong side and it cannot be clocked and also the setup is about 8” longer then my current setup. I did some search and I came across some info, I can flip my front axle housing and stretch the rear. Of course that this will be a lot of work but on the end this will be all worth it. The cover and drain from the front needs to be cutoff and reversed also the differential ring notch needs to be reversed as well as the knuckle ball ends. As far as the rear axle stretch, I might convert it to coil spring since a have to modify it. I will start this project more likely the end of this year hoping to finish it by next season.

[flashboiler]

From no electronics to a maze of wires! Gonna be worth it for the extra ponies.

If you flip your axle, it will go backwards with the same rotation of the driveshaft... Can you install the pumpkin upside down? (right side up after flipping the axle). How do you deal with the negative camber after the flip?

[78bj40]

From no electronics to a maze of wires! Gonna be worth it for the extra ponies.

If you flip your axle, it will go backwards with the same rotation of the driveshaft... Can you install the pumpkin upside down? (right side up after flipping the axle). How do you deal with the negative camber after the flip?

Andy
The bolt pattern is same and the diff can be rotated back to the correct location and the only thing needs to be done is to re-notch for the ring (the flip is clockwise from looking at the axle from the front not from wheel)

[DoctorDuke]

The bell housing and trans looks similar to the w56/r150 and I'm betting you can bolt a 5speed and tcase with the drop on the correct side right up to that bell housing. I'd at least check out the bolt patter to see.

[78bj40]

The bell housing and trans looks similar to the w56/r150 and I'm betting you can bolt a 5speed and tcase with the drop on the correct side right up to that bell housing. I'd at least check out the bolt patter to see.

Duke
I'll do some measurements in the next few days to see if it would match
Thanks

[DoctorDuke]

Duke
I'll do some measurements in the next few days to see if it would match
Thanks

even if they don't match, making adapters is still probably easier than flipping axles (in my opinion) and something I know a little something about:

http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?23273-1989-4Runner-1uz-V8-build&p=290347#post290347

http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?23273-1989-4Runner-1uz-V8-build&p=293690#post293690

[78bj40]

[QUOTE=DoctorDuke;302579]even if they don't match, making adapters is still probably easier than flipping axles (in my opinion) and something I know a little something about:

I'll definitely look you up once I start this project!
Thanks

[FINOCJ]

Good luck Louis!

[dieseldoc]

Louis, the axle flip is not to bad. you will have to cut the bells of to keep caster and such right but really its not that bad. cut welds, remove bell flip housing, clean ends, install bells, check for true and pinion angles, weld in.

[78bj40]

Good luck Louis!
Thanks James

[78bj40]

Louis, the axle flip is not to bad. you will have to cut the bells of to keep caster and such right but really its not that bad. cut welds, remove bell flip housing, clean ends, install bells, check for true and pinion angles, weld in.

It is definitely doable, I'll have to check to see if there is a possibility to adapt the old tranfer case before I get into it to deep.

[EKXJ87]

Cant wait to see the "new motor" build on this one , 100+hp upgrade what not to like !!!!

[78bj40]

Cant wait to see the "new motor" build on this one , 100+hp upgrade what not to like !!!!

Thanks Steve, I have to finish the XJ first before I can even think about getting into this one. I have to have a rig for the summer!

[Java]

This is so cool. I've seen a ton of LC gas v8 swaps but never this, looking forward to following along. :thumb: 3x horsepower should be awesome!

[FINOCJ]

This is so cool. I've seen a ton of LC gas v8 swaps but never this, looking forward to following along. :thumb: 3x horsepower should be awesome!

Ha - when you consider the hp Louis is starting with, 3x may not be all that much! Just kidding with you Louis - 180hp and the new gears should give you a very driveable rig in all conditions. Any plans for the old motor - I bet it would work ok for a stock FJ/BJ running nothing bigger than 31s. Probably still max out at 60mph but get great mpg. early jeep cj5/6 had a 4cyl Perkins 192 diesel as an available option and this seems pretty similar. The perkins may put out a bit more power - but its a bit of a dog for 33s or bigger and I think it was always run with 4.88 gears (maybe even 5.38 which was option for the f-head 4cyl). Top speed of either of those is about 60 mph.

[Brian]

This is gonna be a cool upgrade! Good luck mang! :smokin:

[78bj40]

Ha - when you consider the hp Louis is starting with, 3x may not be all that much! Just kidding with you Louis - 180hp and the new gears should give you a very driveable rig in all conditions. Any plans for the old motor - I bet it would work ok for a stock FJ/BJ running nothing bigger than 31s. Probably still max out at 60mph but get great mpg. early jeep cj5/6 had a 4cyl Perkins 192 diesel as an available option and this seems pretty similar. The perkins may put out a bit more power - but its a bit of a dog for 33s or bigger and I think it was always run with 4.88 gears (maybe even 5.38 which was option for the f-head 4cyl). Top speed of either of those is about 60 mph.

I need to find out what the new 5 speed trany ratios are, I regeared the difs to 5.29 to be able to crawl so I'm hoping that it will be able to drive on the road around 60mph which will be fine with me. As far as the old motor, not sure, I might just sell it. You are correct, if you use the original 4.11 gears and 30-31 tires it should cruse around 55-60mph. I have to do some search on those older CJ5's, never even heard of the optional diesel for them, sound pretty cool.

[78bj40]

This is gonna be a cool upgrade! Good luck mang! :smokin:

Thanks Brian
I sure hope that this will make me a drivable truck

[jayson44]

why not just swap in a different front axle? rather than cutting and welding and all that...should be able to find a driver-drop axle that would work. a TJ/XJ dana 30 would work and give you just a little more track width in front. or a YJ high pinion is already set up for leaf springs...

J.

[78bj40]

why not just swap in a different front axle? rather than cutting and welding and all that...should be able to find a driver-drop axle that would work. a TJ/XJ dana 30 would work and give you just a little more track width in front. or a YJ high pinion is already set up for leaf springs...

J.

Jay
I would but I already spent the big$ on the ARB + I would like to keep it original Toyota

[Chris]

I would like to keep it original Toyota

Of course!

[jayson44]

any of the FJ series use a driver-drop front axle? 60s 80s etc?

J.

[flashboiler]

Check this out:

http://www.coreswest.com/rock-assault-left-hand-drop-driver-drop-toyota-front-axle-trail-gear/

I have a rock-assault rear housing on my sammy. Heavy (for a sammy) but BEEF.

[jayson44]

yeah, i would think you could find a housing that could house your internals, but just swap sides of the pumpkin.

J.

[78bj40]

any of the FJ series use a driver-drop front axle? 60s 80s etc?

J.

Not that I know of, I saw guys doing the flip of course it is quit a bit of work

[78bj40]

Check this out:

http://www.coreswest.com/rock-assault-left-hand-drop-driver-drop-toyota-front-axle-trail-gear/

I have a rock-assault rear housing on my sammy. Heavy (for a sammy) but BEEF.

Andy
Thanks for the info

[78bj40]

Louis, the axle flip is not to bad. you will have to cut the bells of to keep caster and such right but really its not that bad. cut welds, remove bell flip housing, clean ends, install bells, check for true and pinion angles, weld in.

still searching for the best solution, more and more i'm pulling toward the flip, I would like to keep the new 5 speed and transfer case setup as is.

[Patrolman]

The Tacoma guys have the same issue when they do solid axle swaps. They either have to figure a way to convert their Taco from driver to passenger side t-case, or put in an axle that has the diff on the driver side. The original option was a D-44, but now there are companies building driver side Toyota diffs such as this:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Trail+Gear/542/140284-1-KIT/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180016178727&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=pla-177235377671&catargetid=230006180003468672&cadevice=c&gclid=Cj0KEQjwvZq6BRC9kfq2zKfQ_94BEiQAOeUVC_lSyse-e3U6Oi-wucCI7EcxHX-BKoYhHux9_e9zYHwaAm9U8P8HAQ

Might be worth trying to find something similar that will work with the BJ axle components.

[dieseldoc]

the left hand drop rock assault housing is great option but not sure if your 3rd member will fit in this housing.

[Patrolman]

I don't think it will. The stock Toyota truck 3rd member is 8" and the Cruiser is 9.5". Some guys upgrade their truck axles to the 9.5" diffs while retaining the truck other parts. This process was done on Xtreme 4x4 years ago. If I remember right they put the 9.5" in a truck axle. The same procedure could be utilized to move the diff from the passenger to the driver side.

Here is a guy who did a good video on a swap from passenger to driver side, but his process was different than Xtreme 4x4 did:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMD3rq09bm4

[78bj40]

I don't think it will. The stock Toyota truck 3rd member is 8" and the Cruiser is 9.5". Some guys upgrade their truck axles to the 9.5" diffs while retaining the truck other parts. This process was done on Xtreme 4x4 years ago. If I remember right they put the 9.5" in a truck axle. The same procedure could be utilized to move the diff from the passenger to the driver side.

Here is a guy who did a good video on a swap from passenger to driver side, but his process was different than Xtreme 4x4 did:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMD3rq09bm4

Thanks Jeff
Looks like it is fairly easy process

[dieseldoc]

not to bad to do the mod. go for it Louis!

[Patrolman]

I forgot that there is a good article about cutting and turning the knuckles to correct the pinion angle. This same process "could" be utilized to possibly flip the axle around. Remove the knuckles and perches, flip the axles 180 degrees, and then re-weld the knuckles and perches. That is assuming you can bolt the 3rd member in the opposite direction.

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/soa/5.html

[78bj40]

I forgot that there is a good article about cutting and turning the knuckles to correct the pinion angle. This same process "could" be utilized to possibly flip the axle around. Remove the knuckles and perches, flip the axles 180 degrees, and then re-weld the knuckles and perches. That is assuming you can bolt the 3rd member in the opposite direction.
Great to have all these info., if this is the rout that I'm going I'll sleeve them to.
Thanks Jeff

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/soa/5.html

Great to have all these info., if this is the rout that I'm going I'll sleeve them to.
Thanks Jeff

[78bj40]

not to bad to do the mod. go for it Louis!

I might have no choice

[dieseldoc]

Look like it's the only option for you.
But you will be able to a dress all the week spots and have a great set up.
If you be some help let me know.
We have a well set up shop with some big welders and we use wire with rockwell of 87 thousand vs the 78 of most wires.

[78bj40]

Look like it's the only option for you.
But you will be able to a dress all the week spots and have a great set up.
If you be some help let me know.
We have a well set up shop with some big welders and we use wire with rockwell of 87 thousand vs the 78 of most wires.
Thanks Brandon, I'll let you know for sure if I need anything

[Patrolman]

Or you can borrow my Harbor Freight 90amp 110v gasless MIG. :)

[dieseldoc]

90 amp on a fabricated axle could work but depending on what he uses for the sleves.
Really not enough heat.

[78bj40]

90 amp on a fabricated axle could work but depending on what he uses for the sleves.
Really not enough heat.

Welding or the equipment is not the issue, it's the time.

[Patrolman]

I was actually just kidding. I wouldn't trust the 90amp 110v on anything that your life depends on.

[dieseldoc]

Lol...you can build a lot with 90 amps. Bumpers and such.

[96EXXLTinCO]

Lol...you can build a lot with 90 amps. Bumpers and such.
My little Lincoln 110v has done quite a bit. Even did teeth on a Bobcat bucket.

[dieseldoc]

I used a Hobart handeler 140 for my Sami.
Is all about multiple passes.

At work We do 3 passes on most everything we build.
But we are joining 5 inch cromoly solid shaft to 1 inch plate.
Even teeth buckets get 3 passes to build up the weld.
Casson drills are some powerful machines and the soils here in Colorado are very abrasive.