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Cr33p3r
August 7th, 2016, 04:38 PM
Got the call yesterday my son Brandon broke the beast, actually broke one of the 1 ton chevy tie rod ends. He got a ride down off Yankee Hill to buy a new one but didn't have a reamer. So since my reamer still hasn't been returned to me I came up with the idea of using a 3/4" step drill bit. It worked great and we was able to get the Ranger off the mountain. Pics below show the broken tie rod end with the bit kit and once it was back together.

Jackie
August 7th, 2016, 04:55 PM
So glad all ended well!

Brucker
August 7th, 2016, 06:12 PM
Glad it worked out for you in the end!

96EXXLTinCO
August 8th, 2016, 03:18 AM
With Sean on the job there's no doubt!!

Java
August 8th, 2016, 07:07 AM
Nice job! :thumb: Pretty impressive breakage too, that's a heavy duty end.

jayson44
August 8th, 2016, 01:53 PM
yeah...where do you break something like that on Yankee Hill? :D

J.

dieseldoc
August 8th, 2016, 05:14 PM
It just a Chevy end....seen them busted more than stock jeep stuff

Thus why I run 3/4 shank 3/4 bore a/ 5/8 spacer hiemjoints.
Have yet to snap them, I did wear out some Teflon inserts.

Brucker
August 8th, 2016, 05:19 PM
It just a Chevy end....seen them busted more than stock jeep stuff

Thus why I run 3/4 shank 3/4 bore a/ 5/8 spacer hiemjoints.
Have yet to snap them, I did wear out some Teflon inserts.

How is a heim better than an actual tapered steering joint in a steering application?

dieseldoc
August 8th, 2016, 05:49 PM
I trust that 5/8 grade 8 bolt and ball and socket with Teflon more than the plastic cap taper joint junk being built now days.
The joints I am using from Midwest control have a static load raiting of 27,018 lbs
The cevy tie rod ends have 13,780 lbs load

As well as the strength of a 5/8 grade 8 bolt the sheer stregth on the bolt is still higher than a Chevy 1 ton tie rod end.
So I think I will stick with my hien joints.

Brucker
August 8th, 2016, 06:06 PM
Sorry don't have the specs in front of me. But most "1 ton" Chevy TRE's have a 7/8" taper shaft. Although most real 1 ton TRE's actually have a 1" tapered shaft. What are the ones to which you are referring? Also, what are the dynamic load ratings?

A tierod locates into a tapered hole which gives 100% engagement and some reassurance that the stud cannot work loose. Just like a morse taper in machine tooling there is no messing around. Whereas a heim joint uses a straight bolt and can work loose easier in a cylindrical hole which is why they are not permitted for on road use in some jurisdictions. And in most steering applications, one must use a single shear setup in at least one of the mounting locations. They also do not allow lubrication to purge debris from the bearing surfaces. This tends to lead to squeaks and/or rattles, and they corrode terribly since they aren't protected from any elements.

dieseldoc
August 8th, 2016, 06:19 PM
I understand the single sheer issue.
I have yet to have mine work lose as use of a Stover lock nut won't let it get lose.
Stovers are designed for high vibration locations.
The eagle issues some have seen have not reared there ugly head.
I just pulled a set that are near 40k mile old and still good.
As for the juridictions that don't allow them I am not sure how many not where and most state patrol don't know the difference, most that is some do.

The single sheer could be an issue if the holes were not round and straight.

Cr33p3r
August 9th, 2016, 09:01 AM
yeah...where do you break something like that on Yankee Hill? :D

J.

He missed planting the passenger tire on a rock and hit the tie rod head on. It was the rock out cropping just passed the two mud puddles.