New camping off road trailer build

[vector07]

Hey guys,
I am looking to start a new project for the winter and could use some advice along the way so its done right the first time.
I picked up the trailer which was build in the 70s as a mobile welding trailer, the guy I bought it from worked at the welding shop where it was custom built by the shop. He bought it in 81 and added 3 motorcycle rails to haul his bikes around. I removed the steel bike rails which I plan to reuse for the build as extra steel. The axle is off the front end of a 45 ford, its flat and has a drop.
Now with the questions,
I would like it to be smaller and I know I cannot manipulate the front end so was looking to cut off the rear about a foot, so the back will line up with the rear of the tires. I can defiantly feel it behind the fj and would like it to be lighter. thoughts?

second I plan to pull it with a tow pintle rather than the current config.

wondering about the deck, I don't believe my welder will weld aluminium so I am forced to use steel but want to keep it light, thoughts on guage thickness

Was thinking of flipping the axle for more ground clearance and adding shocks?

going to cut off the wheel wells since they are crooked, going to add custom covers once the sides are built up

above is all trailer prep, my biggest struggle is what the end result should look like, we have a seperate tent we will be using so no need for a top mounted tent on this one, but want to carry all the camping gear, wife wants a slide out kitchen :eek:

Need to find some offroad used tires for it as well

Im sure I will have more questions and appreciate any and all advice.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93983509/trailer%201.JPG

[Hypoid]

WOW, that thing looks hell-for-stout! Let's get a picture of the axle mounting.

[JandDGreens]

That is nice! Can't wait to see what you do with it.

[Spieg]

When you said "built for mobile welding" I was picturing something pretty heavy, and the photo backs that up. It already looks fairly short behind the wheels (maybe it's just the angle of the photo), so I don't know if I would shorten it much unless you move the axle forward a little.

To save wight, a few ideas come to mind;
1) Since it is over built for your purposes, you may be able to remove the two center cross members and replace with one in the middle.

2) For the deck you could use expanded steel (like they have in front of the wheels), or maybe even wood.

3) If the axle is from a motor vehicle, it is probably stronger/heavier than you need. You may be able to swap it for a smaller trailer axle to save weight.

[vector07]

ok here is the axle
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93983509/axle1.JPG
here is the leaf spring connection, thinking if I flip it I will have to weld a plate to support it on the back side to hold the spring??https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93983509/axle2.JPG


Inside of the hub
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93983509/inside%20hub.JPG

Here is the part I had planned on cutting off, so the new back of the trailer where the leaf spring connections are will be the rear. Is this bad, not sure If I can move the axle
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93983509/part%20to%20cut%20off.JPG

[Hypoid]

wondering about the deck, I don't believe my welder will weld aluminium so I am forced to use steel but want to keep it light, thoughts on guage thickness
12 GA is 4.3 lbs/Sq Ft
14 GA is 3.1 lbs/Sq Ft
16 GA is 2.5 lbs/Sq Ft
18 GA is 2.0 lbs/Sq Ft

When I was fixing a buddies harbor Freight trailer to haul some heavy equipment, I considered using 16 GA steel for the deck. After calculating the weight, I opted for 1/2-inch plywood.

You could weld tabs to the trailer frame and bolt any material you like to it.

[Hypoid]

here is the leaf spring connection, thinking if I flip it I will have to weld a plate to support it on the back side to hold the spring??I would have to think long and hard about that one. In my mind, flipping the axle would would multiply the forces working against the mounting system. If I were to try that, I would use a heavier welder, and order U-Bolts long enough to go through the factory mount. I would make that change before doing anything else. I would load the trailer with twice the weight I think it will ever carry, and beat the snot out of it to see if it will live.

With the trailer sitting level, how far off the ground is the hitch? If you were to flip the axle, how far off the ground would the hitch be then?

I would look into the possibility of making another axle with hubs to match the vehicle's bolt pattern.

[vector07]

thanks guys, after taking those pics yesterday I was looking at the axle, i'm thinking if I just put bigger tires on I will get enough clearance of at least 10-12 inches. Also thinking of not cutting off the back of the trailer looking at some others, they are at 11 feet.

[The StRanger]

After calculating the weight, I opted for 1/2-inch plywood.

t.
Iv heard a lot about plastic cutting board. Light as plywood, strong as steel. And slick as class.

[Jim]

Will you be planning to put a sleeping bag on this platform? If yes, thermal concerns (cold steel) come to mind.

[DETN8R]

Awesome! I plan on building my own off road camping trailer next summer. Looking forward to following yours. I picked up some cutting board material from plasticare for my rear tire carrier and tailgate. Very light and durable stuff. I think it's economical.

[vector07]

as far as the plastic are you referring to HDPE?, I priced that on plasticare and it looks good, cheaper than steel as well. I looked a 3/16th sheet 4x6 for 111.00
I am assuming it would be way lighter than steel as well. what thickness did you use for the box you built?

Jim - no sleeping bag, have an external ezup tent we will be using external from the trailer, trailer will just carry all the camping gear and have the built in kitchen etc.

[dieseldoc]

Axle, no flippy here that axle has a slight bend in it. just like the class A trucks. to flip it will cause tire wear. next the perch is a huge issue, flip it and now you are having to build a perch, next issue is the axle is cast steel or cast iron, no fun tonweld no mater how it was built. if you deside to do some welding on the axle pm me, wevhave the corect rod for this and my shop is in englwood. the bottom of these axle have a distinct ridge in them.
as for the deck, the HDPE is a great option, be sure to counter sink you bolt/screws for easy loading, as well as plenty of tie down points.

kitchen, plan it to break down and stow away, this will take some though for sure.

looks like you got a great starting point.

good luck

[The StRanger]

as far as the plastic are you referring to HDPE?,

YA !!!! That's the stuff !!!

[Java]

Nice trailer, I wouldn't take any of the crossmembers out, it's not that much of a weight savings and it looks bomb proof. I used plywood for the deck on mine http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?19112-Offroad-Trailer and it hasn't held up well, this winter I'm replacing it. I like the plastic, I might steal that idea. :thumb:

[Hypoid]

If you have your heart set on HDPE, try Piedmont Plastics. My former employer used to buy 4 x 10 sheets of the stuff from Piedmont, they might be sitting on some surplus since we closed.

[vector07]

awesome, still kicking around the HDPE idea, will have a plan once I get the build ideas completed. Decided not to flip the axle which is cast steel but thinking of adding shocks to it so its not so bouncy. Only issue is since the closest cross member is so far back I may need to add one to mount the shocks too?

[dieseldoc]

Na....you could go to the main frame.

[vector07]

Will that be too far of an angle, concerned about it being too close to horizontal.

[Hypoid]

Only issue is since the closest cross member is so far back I may need to add one to mount the shocks too?Shock mounts for that would not be structural, sounds like a good welding project. ;)

[vector07]

latest pic, I removed the sides as new fenders will be built off the new sides. Covered the entire trailer in corriseal which makes the rust inert, the small amount of red in the pic is where there was still paint, the corriseal turns black over rust. Will get fully painted this weekend. axles are all lubed up as well, saving for bigger tires.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93983509/latest.JPG

[JandDGreens]

That is going to be nice, is the lug pattern 4.5? I am planning to use 31"s for my trailer.

[vector07]

Thanks, when I measured them they were 4.5 with a wheel width of 6.5

[JandDGreens]

It would be pretty easy to find some one who is planning on going from 31"s to 33"s In fact that is exactly what I a planning on doing once my camper is ready for the road. I will be taking my 31"s and putting them on my trailer and purchasing some 33"x10.5x15 KO 2s for the jeep.