Swank's 1992 Range Rover Classic

[Swank1975]

I bought my 1992 Range Rover County from a guy in north Denver off of Craigslist. It didn't have a battery, the brakes barely worked, and the shocks were just placeholders. We limped it home (ran pretty good).

Within 2 weeks I started on this pile of parts.
2" lift, new steering rods and ends, swivel ball rebuilds, axle seals, diff fluid changes, transfer case oil change, transmission service kit, caliper rebuilds, new rotors and pads and flush, new wheel bearings, caster correction arms for front, new center load assist ball joints on rear, new suspension bushings, new optima battery, oil change, plugs, and air filter, Still need to do distributor work (if I keep this engine), and new BFG AT KO2 265/75R-16 tires, new headliner material (wife's project) The rig drives great up to 75-80 mph. She also helped me with the suspension and brake work. I had to take it to Bud's muffler shop to have multiple exhaust leaks fixed and a new muffler put on. I just picked up a better back hatch glass/frame as mine was rusted and won't stay latched. Still need to install.

The engine I have currently has 90-110 PSI per cylinder and is very low on HP. In 4 Low on the steep climbs on Slaughterhouse I had to floor it to get up the hills (not going very fast). Trying to decide if I want to rebuild my 3.9 Landrover V8 or swap in a small block Chevy. I also want to do a full ARB air system with front and rear lockers, ARB front winch bumper, custom rear swing away tire/table bumper, and sliders. I may also had coil spacers front and rear or do a body lift for a touch more clearance on the fenders.

How it looked when we got it.

[Swank1975]

Here are some additional pics.

[Patrolman]

Looks like you made a lot of good progress in a very short period of time!

Regarding the engine swaps, Brad should be able to pipe up and give you options/ideas. He used to work as a Land Rover mechanic and has owned multiple rovers. I am sure he will have an opinion.

[Swank1975]

Thanks,

I've known Brad (a little) since 2003 or 2004. We were into the Water Cooled VWs for a while.

Here is my old Jetta. VR6 turbo
It was originally red. The wife and I shaved the engine bay and prepped it all for the repaint.

[Chris]

Welcome to Front Range!

[Swank1975]

I'm starting to wonder if a swap like this into the rover will be possible. http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-MERCEDES-E320-ENGINE-211-TYPE-E320-CDI-DIESEL-ENGINE-497915-/361727848363?fits=Make%3AMercedes-Benz&hash=item5438a8efab:g:S0wAAOSwknJX2CEP&vxp=mtr

Mercedes turbo diesel. I'd have to just see how the mercedes mounts. Who knows.

[dieseldoc]

Hmm....anything is posible comes down to cost.

[Swank1975]

Yesterday I replaced the driver's front door latch spring to keep the door lock up when I unlock it and adjusted the outer door handle release linkage so it opens easily now. This job requires the removal of the window frame from the door.

I just ordered a new heater core. I'm doing some research on my blower motor. Apparently the OEM one isn't available. Atlantic British sells a conversion kit to replace the motor and wheel but its $210 + $75 for the resistor block for the fan speeds. I now have 3 more doors worth of lock springs and linkage adjustments to do. I'm sure I'll be much faster now that I've gotten one under my belt. Pics to follow.

[Swank1975]

Another recent update I've done in the last month or two was getting a replacement rear hatch glass off of a guy locally that isn't as rusted and opens and closes easily. I no longer need a strap to hold the glass down because it would pop open while driving even after I adjusted those linkages.

[Patrolman]

Good deal! Not that the strap looked too ghetto, but it certainly made it known that some work was needed. I am sure the new hatch looks better, and of course operates correctly.

[Swank1975]

Scored me a much lower mile and in better condition 3.9 Rover V8, Auto Trans, radiator, down pipe with cats, and Borg Werner Transfer case today from a guy who had a Diesel swapped into his Rover. I'm going to clean up and freshen up this drive line and replace the one from my Rover. As far as I can tell my stuff is stock and the odometer stopped working at 270K miles. It sure drives like it's that tired. :)

The guy I got this from would not hesitate to take it far up into the mountains on long trips. Had to make 2 trips to get all of the stuff home. The engine and parts in my rover and the trans and xcase in the 4runner.

[Chris]

Nice Mike! Good luck with the new project!

[Brian]

Good luck on the swap! :thumb:

[dieseldoc]

sounds like a better engine is making irts way under the hood.

[Swank1975]

Ok. Time for some engine updates. I got my parts from Rimmer Bros in england. 5 days after ordering all of my parts arrived. Head gasket kit, cam shaft, lifters, oil pan gasket, front and rear main seals, front engine cover gasket, water pump gasket, timing chain and a few other items.

So far the head and block surfaces look good. Going to give them a close inspection before proceeding. Also the cylinder crosshatching looks good. I'm not intending to take the pistons out. We have some 4th events planned today so it's going to limit my wrenching. I'm wanting to get through this quickly so I don't have time to forget how things go. I do have the RAVE manual, youtube videos, and photos I'm taking but it's still easier when fresh in the brain.

[Swank1975]

Finished tear down this morning. Now time to clean up, inspect, then start reassembly.

[Patrolman]

Nice work. It always feels good to make some progress!

[Funrover]

Can't believe I have missed this. Waaaay cool to see this, love to see the rover rebuilt! Keep on truckin!

[Swank1975]

Thanks for the support. Engine is cleaned up. Assembly lube in hand. About to start putting it all together. Just need to chase the head bolt threads and look everything over one more time to be sure it's all clean and ready. Pics to follow.

[Java]

Nice score on the new drivetrain, and good on you for not just dropping it in as-is. Kudos to your wife for pitching in too! :thumb:

[Swank1975]

She's very awesome at helping. She was just researching how to remove our sunroof shade without dropping the headliner to replace the sagging fabric on it. :)

[Funrover]

Hey I have some extra 10 spline rear axle shafts if you want them. I changed all of mine over to 24.

[Swank1975]

So I got a little done today. Cam is in, parts cleaned up, realized I have the wrong water pump gasket. Also realized I forgot to order the cam and crank gears for the timing. Those are all ordered now. Sigh. ;) I can still put the heads on tomorrow, just no lifters, pushrods, or rockers yet.

[Jim]

Progress!

[Swank1975]

Not much for progress today. I was like I can still go put the heads on. Got out to garage and realized I also didn't get head bolts. DOH. So I have a set of those on the way also. :)

We did take the dog to Chatfield's off leash dog park.

[Swank1975]

Ok Head bolts arrived so I have put the heads on. I'm still waiting for my cam and crank timing gears so I can close up the front of the engine then put the lifters, pushrods, rockers, etc on.

[Swank1975]

More update.

New cam and crank gears for timing chains are on, front engine cover is on, correct water pump gasket arrived and is installed, some accessory brackets and parts are going on. Next is installing new lifters and putting push rods and rockers back on then setting clearance.

Brad Peterson do I set the valves on this just like other small block chevys where you unload the rocker so the push rod is free then just tighten the rocker down so it just touches the push rod? Then test the hydraulic lifter still compresses as they are not pumped up yet. I know to soak them in oil first before installing and I'll use assembly lube between the lifter and cam at the contact points.

Then I can put on the valley pan gasket and intake manifold. I'm still going to pull the oil pump apart, inspect it, replace the gasket, and pack it with Vaseline for priming. I'm ordering a drill oil pump primer shaft unless someone has one I can borrow. I intend to have this engine fully primed before starting. Luckily with a distributor motor and this oil pump drive system I should be able to do that.

I'm getting so excited. I just can't hide it.

[Jim]

I'm ordering a drill oil pump primer shaft unless someone has one I can borrow.

Hmm - Didn't FINOCJ just go about doing this recently?

[Swank1975]

And more update. Lifters, push rods, rocker arms, valley pan gasket, intake manifold all on. Oil pan cleaned up and ready to install. I have the wrong oil pan gasket. The one rimmer bros sent was too long. ??

[Swank1975]

The engine is out. Time to pull the transmission and transfercase then clean up the engine bay and frame rails and put the replacement engine in. We also recovered the sunroof shade with new fabric and came up with a name for the rig. Our Range Rover is now known as "Tommy".

[Funrover]

Looking good man!

[Swank1975]

I forgot to post the picture to explain why we now call the Rover "Tommy". :) The wife grabbed some Tommy Bahama fabric for us to recover the dirty saggy sunroof shade. Now we just need to clean up that edge trim.

[Chris]

I forgot to post the picture to explain why we now call the Rover "Tommy". :) The wife grabbed some Tommy Bahama fabric for us to recover the dirty saggy sunroof shade. Now we just need to clean up that edge trim.

I was thinking it was a tribute to The Who. :smokin:

[Jim]

My mind went to Jimmy Buffet

[Swank1975]

Today the transmission and T-case are out of the Rover. We will be installing the newer ones together also. I think it's just easier at this point.

[Patrolman]

Good to see a drivetrain missing. Always a sign that good things are on the horizon!

[Swank1975]

Working on getting the transmission and xfer case back in today. Man I'm outta shape for this kinda work. :)

Shifter cable hooked up, e brake hooked up, one transmission mount to frame mount bolting together. Using my harbor freight transmission jack under the tranny pan and my floor jack under the transfer case.

[goSlo]

That's coming together nicely, well done man!
So much work! Reminds me of the saying...

How do you eat an elephant?

One bite at a time.

[Swank1975]

Woohoo. The transmission mount and transfer case mount bolts are in and they are basically in place. I still have the jack under them until I install the cross brace. Wires and cables are all hooked up. I need to grab a new bolt tomorrow for one of the mounts and I can button that part up. I thought the transmission was empty and the drain bolt was in the way so I pulled it out and made a huge mess on the floor under the rover. When I'm done mounting these the floor and tools under the rover are all getting cleaned up for the next stage. I'm sore.

[Funrover]

Excited to see it out there!

[Swank1975]

Yesterday was prepping the engine and bay for the newer engine install. We checked bolts, took the AC compressor off the newer motor as I left my compressor in the Rover still charged and pulled over to the side, installed the torque converter, and buttoned up a few loose ends. The engine is now hanging on the hoist and has the flex-plate and flywheel ring installed. Monday we're planning on dropping the motor in and starting to hook things up. Who knows by next Sunday the 27th I might be trying to start it. :) I found my positive cable from the battery to the starter is has broken down insulation. That is definitely getting replaced. I also have some other + wires to replace or repair. Then I'll re-wrap all of those with new flex loom for protection. I don't want to do all of this work then end up with an engine fire.

[Swank1975]

Just ordered this fancy battery cable. I figure for the price, materials, and time this one was worth it. Built for the discovery 1 or Range Rover Classic. I like the heat sheilding down by the starter to protect it from the exhaust. That is where my current cable is cracked and has conductor exposed.

[Swank1975]

Got my butt kicked yesterday. Tried putting the engine in the rover. We had already done the torque converter shuffle where you sit there and wiggle and turn it past the splines and until the body notches are engaged with the oil pump. We were pretty sure we had it. While trying to get the engine in I had it lined up, 4 bolts started to help line it up, did some wiggle and started to draw them up and about 1/2-5/8" from mating up it started binding. I didn't torque down on them because I shouldn't have to if it's right. I monkeyed around with it for the next few hours including pulling the engine out and rechecking the converter seating. It seemed right. Then I took the old converter and trans on the floor and mated them up. Then I used a stick and measured 1 7/8" from the stick across the bell housing to the flex plate bolt blocks. when I checked the one in the rover I had 1 3/8". I tried seating that converter again to get that last bit and I just cannot find it. I eventually got fatigued and gave up for the day. SIGH

10/23/17 update so I'm not flooding the board with posts. lol The engine is installed. WHEW... So When I thought I had the torque converter in all the way I actually didn't. I had to slowly turn it while tapping with dead blow hammer then it went it. I figured this out using a straight edge and my calipers to measure how far the flex plate base that meets up to the torque converter was out from the engine block. Then I used that same dimension locked into the calipers to verify the torque converter was in the bell housing far enough. What a *****........

Now it's sitting on it's engine mounts and 4 of the bell housing to block bolts are started. The hoist is out of the way and it's hopefully home for a long time.

[Swank1975]

Time for an update. I'm hopefully very close to done. I have it about 99% together (minus air cleaner, fan shroud, etc). The donor radiator I put in with the motor had a leak and had to swap that out. Ended up needing a new distributor. Got that in and installed. Turned the key on today and I'm leaking from an injector. Kicking myself in the ass for not just getting all new Orings for them. I did clean them up when the engine was apart and thought they looked good, greased them and reinstalled. Now I get to remove the intake plenum and fuel rail to do it right. :)

Still hoping to start it today.

[Chris]

Good luck. Ike, hope you get it running today!

[Funrover]

You can do it!!

[Swank1975]

Injectors not leaking, vaseline primed oil pump, about ready to try it out. Charging battery right now. :(

[Swank1975]

So it is running. Starts when cold. Ran it at 2k rpm for a while to help ensure good oil pressure as cam breaks in. Got up to temp, coolant is good, oil is good, idles well. Set timing. Won't restart when hot!. Checking fuel pressure tomorrow and putting a new fuel filter in it. I've not put one in it since purchasing it last summer. Who knows when it was done last. Also going to rig up a gauge for pressure.

[Funrover]

Yay start..boo no restart

[Jim]

Quick no-start test - dribble some fuel into the intake just before cranking (be safe) - see if it catches at least a bit. If no - likely electrical/spark delivery, if yes, likely fuel delivery.

[Swank1975]

Thanks for the tips and a special thanks to Brad for giving up some of his time to help me go through diagnosis steps. Turns out I have finally figured it out and have concluded I'm a knucklehead. LOL

I had plugged the Injector #1 connector into the coolant temp sensor that is about 2" from that injector that uses the same connector. I did notice the plastic on the coolant sensor is more of a grime covered dirty which which is easily confused with the grime covered dirty gray the injector plugs are. LOL I should have labeled plugs better on disassembly.

So now it's running good. I'll do more shake down driving tonight after work and Friday. If it performs flawlessly I might bring up up for the cleanup on Saturday. I'm not sure about that yet though.

[Jim]

pfew! Glad the mis-connect didn't blow anything.

One of those items that a new set of eyes can see the light.

[Brad]

Don’t feel bad Mike. I didn’t see it either. ;)

[Swank1975]

So I've racked up some miles on this bad boy since Wednesday. It's going on the trail cleanup run tomorrow. :)

[Brian]

You go dewd!! :cheers:

[Jim]

It's going on the trail cleanup run tomorrow.

Nice!

[dieseldoc]

Sweet sounds like a good time.
Wish I was not stuck in Glennwood springs working!

[Eagle6]

Ugg, I'm bleeding.

http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=46060&stc=1&d=1506222537

[Jim]

Good to know it was only a flesh wound!

[Swank1975]

It was a hose to hard pipe connection for the transmission cooling line. Yes we cleaned up our fluid dirt. ;)

Just got home. Rover is still sitting on the trailer in front of the neighbors house. New transmission cooling lines to be ordered asap.

[FINOCJ]

Glad you got it home...always feels better when its back home even if its got a problem. I've been there...You'll get it going

[Eagle6]

Glad to hear that it made it's way home safely. Extra long day for you. Nice wheeling with you.

[Jim]

So how was ?sketchy? trailer coming down I-70 into Denver (or best I don't ask...).

[Swank1975]

Wasn't sketch. We went down to I70 then down clear creek canyon to golden. Much more gradual grade and slower speeds Towed at 55mph on 470 to university just fine.

[Swank1975]

So the hose I broke isn't available anywhere. :) Checked Rovers North, Atlantic British, Major autoparts chains, parts geek, rock auto, EBAY US and UK, british rover parts websites and landrover parts. I'm likely going to use these adapters and make a custom braided line setup. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/rus-670280

[Eagle6]

Well if you make a custom braided line there is a good chance it won't fail again anytime in the near future. Best of luck and hope to see you on the trail again soon.

[Funrover]

What line do you need? I have a parts rover I can try to help with!! Bummer on the bleeding.

[Swank1975]

I was needing the Trans cooler to radiator line but I've since put together a full AN fitting and braided line system. The last 2 fittings should show up tonight and I bought a M10x1.5 tap today to mount my trans fluid temp sensor into the body of one of the fittings. Going to start on the assembly this weekend.

This has been a pain in the ass. So the transmission adapters to AN6 are like M15x1.5 threads, the radiator adapters are 3/8" NPT to AN6 and to adapt the trans cooler to AN6 I had to get 1/2" BSP to AN6 female swivel adapters. The 2 pieces of the 3 hoses for this system from Atlantic British are over $200 and I put all of this together for about $290 so I'm breaking even but now from this point on I'll be able to fix it better. Since I'll just be working with AN6 braided line and hose end fittings that I carry a small spare amount for. I'll feel much better about being able to fix this going forward and I'll trust the hoses.

[Swank1975]

Woohoo I now have all 6 of the AN adapters I needed to convert the various Landrover fittings to AN fittings. This weekend is assembly begins. This has been a challenge to figure out. I'm going to do a write up and post it on multiple landrover forums so the resource is out there for others going forward. Assuming it all works out allrigh. :)

[Swank1975]

It's alive. Again. The AN6 transmission cooling line project is now complete. Going to run it around all week to shake it down more.

[Getaklu]

:thumb:Here is hoping all goes well

[Swank1975]

Today was about taking care of some loose ends. Noticed the back seat floor was getting really really hot (melted carpet backing to floor). Found a heat shield had been missing for who knows how long. I went to depot and got 2 sheets of 12" x 24" aluminum and a package of fiberglass cloth. I cut one sheet 1" shorter than the full sized one along 2 edges. Then I sorted and folded the fiberglass to give me 6 layers of glass in the footprint of the cut piece of aluminum. I then trimmed the corners of the full size sheet for folding around the cut sheet and crimped the excess 1/2" of aluminum evenly around the cut sheet. This resulted in a sandwich of aluminum/fiberglass/aluminum. I then used some hardware and the factory heat shield mounting points to install it over my muffler.. It works wonderfully no hot floor, no rattles, and a very solid and durable install.

[Swank1975]

Woohoo. Resolved my charging issue. After spending 1.5 hours at Advance Autoparts where I purchased my redtop I did get them to warranty my battery. It was at 33 months of the 36 month warranty. New battery for me at no charge. :) I've never heard this starter spin the engine this fast. LOL

[Swank1975]

Just was about to post my new offroad lights update and realized I've not posted my roof rack either. Got a roof rack from someone parting out a FJ80. Had to redrill holes for the cross bars where the bolt onto the gutter mounts but it works. The Range Rover roof is considerably wider than that of the FJ80. My lights are 10 of those square ones off amazon for like $60. I also picked up illuminated switches for front, sides, and rear lighting. It was hard finding a dash spot to install them so I put them on a metal plate where a dash vent used to be.

[goSlo]

Looks good!
This makes me want to go out and do something to the rig today.

[Swank1975]

Making some progress on my drawer system today. Also fixed a couple minor issues that were buggin me. Next I'll build 2 drawers on locking drawer slides and I'll build a fridge slide. Debating if I do a DIY fridge slide with drop down. Buying one just seems crazy considering they are like $800.

[Jim]

Looks great!

DIY fridge slide means there's a fridge - what make/model are you looking at?

[FINOCJ]

Debating if I do a DIY fridge slide with drop down.

what is this talk of a fridge...you can fit a fridge in your 4x4...that is cheating.

[Swank1975]

LOL James.

So on July 4th the Rover was acting up all the way home from Monument, CO to Denver. Over the hour drive home the entire vehicle lost all electrical power 4 times. I'd have to pull over and I'd try checking battery cables, jiggling key in ignition etc. then just like that power would come back on and off we'd go. Got it home and found the problem was what I was suspecting but couldn't check without tools to take dash apart. Below the steering column is a 4 pole connector for power to and from the ignition. The brown wire had been hot and had discolored to plastic. My solution was Anderson powerpole 45amp connectors.

[speedkills]

Loving this thread, can't wait to see this rig on a run.

[Swank1975]

I'll be at the cleanup day on the 20th.

[speedkills]

Excellent, I think I'm going to be able to make that one too.

[Swank1975]

Just picked this up yesterday. Whole setup with misc small parts from a retiring mechanic for $400. Going to start with rock slider build then going to do my rear bumper with swing away tire carrier. Most likely going to get a cheap plasma cutter from amazon. Then I'll have grinder and plasma for cutting duties.

[The StRanger]

Nice find.

[Swank1975]

Today I'm doing my heater box swap in my Range Rover. This means center console and full dash removal and reassembly. I rebuitl the spare heater box I have yesterday so I don't have to stop to rebuild it in the middle which should save me a couple hours. The job is listed at 9-10 hours total for DIY.

[Jim]

Any photo of the no-dash Rover?

[Swank1975]

Yup. So the new box is partially fitted in place. Stopped for a great bowl of chili made by the wife. Hoses hooked up, bolted in place, starting to connect hoses and wires before putting more of dash in.

[Swank1975]

Got the job most of the way done. Still some trim to put back in place and I'm in the process of refinishing my home built center console after the old vinyl started to come off of it. :( It's working and driveable for now.

[FINOCJ]

Saw Mike and the Rover on the road (yesterday? or maybe Wed?) - in case you were wondering who was trying to yell at you through the window.

[Swank1975]

James I recognized you after a second of thought. Didn't know you from the Tacoma. If you'd been in your Jeep it would have been instant recognition. LOL That was Thursday. I was on my way to Thai Yoga Massage at Triple Gem Therapeutics. Since I've started working in the field with tools again since July Jarda has kept me from hurting too bad. LOL

[Swank1975]

Ordered my swing away spindle, locking T pin, and latch today. Time to put that new welder to work and get me a place to put my spare tire that doesn't use the interior or roof rack.

[The StRanger]

I need to find a place too.
sprare in the roof rack make thr Ranger lean REALY bad in turns.
So bad the wife won’t drive it.

[Trevor?]

Ordered my swing away spindle, locking T pin, and latch today. Time to put that new welder to work and get me a place to put my spare tire that doesn't use the interior or roof rack.

Very cool. One day I'd like to attempt this as well. Please take lots of pictures.

[Swank1975]

I'll try to get a step by step that way the guys who really know what they're doing can point out my mistakes. :) In my industrial career I've done various welding tasks but I'm no pretty welder. I know a lot of my success will depend on planning and preparation of all of the pieces much like in wood working.


Very cool. One day I'd like to attempt this as well. Please take lots of pictures.

[Swank1975]

This week my Rover got a new front bumper. It's a used TJM that had surface rust I cleaned up. I then painted the bumper and mounted it today. Now to order some LED lights for the bumper, get a winch plate going, and put a winch on it.

[goSlo]

That's looking great!