Looking to rebuild my 1992 Range Rover engine

[Swank1975]

All,

I'm looking at a stock rebuild of my 1992 Range Rover engine.

I have found this kit from england. $888 before shipping to USA. I figured I'd take it to a local machine shop? Anyone have recommendations for this engine here in the Denver Metro. I've used Gun Automotive before on a toyota engine.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RB8111RBK

I don't think I want to try high HP or bigger block. I just want to keep at as close to stock/oem as possible. This rig had it's odometer stop working at 265K miles. I think it's the original engine. Has low compression but passed emissions a month ago.

Figure $500 for machine shop costs? Pull engine and have kit in hand and deliver both to machine shop?

Thoughts and input on the job? I've pulled engines and done work this this before on VWs but not a old rover.

[redneck23ms]

i'd talk to the engine builder first as they may be able to get a better deal on parts. they also may have to machine the cylinders or crank which would mean oversized bearing/rings or pistons therefor half of the "kit would be of no use.

[Swank1975]

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. I've talked to Brad some about this as I know he's been down this road and I've also talked to JC's Rovers about which machine shop they recommend. They said they send full engines out to Geddes in Colorado Springs for this engines.

I'm still toying around with a chevy small block swap also.

[Jim]

I'm still toying around with a chevy small block swap also.

Stirr'n the pot: If you're thinking that work, why not also consider going down the line of a "modest" blower sitting atop the intake! Low RPM torque in spades...

[Swank1975]

I know if I am going to use the Rover transmission and transfer case I cannot get stupid with HP/Torque and I don't want to replace all of that also. Not really wanting super power just enough to drive anywhere and be reliable. The SBC is tempting for future parts and maintenance needs. Once it's done it's simple for life.

[Swank1975]

Yeah I will talk to the shop also to see what they can do. I just know ultimatly the swap will cost more and with so much I want to do to this thing (bumpers, sliders, rack, RTT, swing away, fridge, storage, etc. I don't want to go all out on drive train.

[FINOCJ]

i'd talk to the engine builder first as they may be able to get a better deal on parts. they also may have to machine the cylinders or crank which would mean oversized bearing/rings or pistons therefor half of the "kit would be of no use.

I pulled my old V6 engine and am going to through the rebuild process right now at a local shop. I'd say from my research that $300-$500 is about the cost of the disassembly and reassembly and doesn't include tanking and machining cost. I would estimate doubling that for machine work plus assembly. I think most engine shops that warranty their work will require at least some basic honing of cylinders as well as probably decking the heads and maybe some valve work as well as possibly polishing the crank - I am more familiar with older engines so maybe not all of this would be required for a newer engine. I preferred an engine shop that did their own machine work, and it seems you pay a bit of a premium for that as well - but worth it to me. I would definitely wait until the engine has been checked and machined before ordering parts and the machined block will determine piston and ring sizes as well as machining the crank will determine main bearing sizing. Also agree that the engine shop can probably get you equivalent parts for less, or in my case they are getting me better quality parts for almost the same costs, and are also able to more easily exchange an OEM replacement part for performance upgrade parts for only the difference in cost as opposed to paying for and not using a part from a kit that I did not want. Just the savings in terms or being able to upgrade to a comp cam and oil pump pays a couple hundred dollars towards the labor costs (or in my case an unexpectedly unusable crank that has to be replaced new). Its turning in a big chuck of change to get this done right but should be worth it with years of good service.