Ramsey REP 8000

[FINOCJ]

Anyone familiar with old Ramsey winches (maybe Patrolman?). I have an old REP 8000 that has only 2 terminals on the end of the motor (1 and 2). As far as I understand, the dual solenoids supply positive power either 1 or 2 (reversing the rotating for in or out). But there is no A terminal as on the newer ramsey motors. I assume A is a ground. For the old motors with only a 1 and 2 on the end of the motor (not on the side of the cylinder like the newer ones) how does it ground. Through the case? Can I add a ground strap somehow?

The motor runs for a bit, then stops - but its not hot. The solenoids click nicely, but the motor doesn't turn - thinking its not grounding correctly.
Here is a pic of the end terminals:

http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?media/20170609_113407.2175/full

[Eagle6]

Have you got a manual. I found one here in .pdf if you don't have one.

http://www.ramsey.com/content/documents/manuals/automotive-winches---consumer/914098-0107-p.pdf

From the picture above it looks more like it might be a REP 8000e. Found this manual which looks close to the picture.

http://www.ramsey.com/content/documents/manuals/automotive-winches---consumer/914101-0603-e.pdf

[Patrolman]

Yes, this should ground through the case. Almost all winches do. Make sure that the winch itself is grounded, as well as the solenoid box. Either of those would be an easy fix.

[FINOCJ]

Put my voltmeter on the terminals - definitely getting 12V to either terminal when operating the switch, so the solenoids are working great. One thing checked off.

Pulled the motor off and put it directly to 12V battery source with jumper cables - NOTHING. So something in the motor is the issue. Gonna start to disassemble and see how bad the brushes and contacts are. I just took apart and cleaned my evaporative cooler fan motor - but that was series wound. This is PM. We'll see what it looks like...can't screw it up anymore than it is.

[Jim]

but that was series wound. This is PM.

PM = Permanent Magnet

I was initially going to post that the motor is a permanent magnet style - thus one lug fewer - but in the PDF(s) David listed stated the 8000 is series wound. Do you know for certain which style of motor it is (`cause I'm baffled)?

Either way - can't go wrong opening it up for inspection, cleaning, lube...

[FINOCJ]

Jim - its definitely a PM motor. I specifically got interested in PM motors as they pull less current than a series wound motor, but they are not as fast. But for my old jeep with an OEM alternator of 35 amps, less current is better. Of course, I upgraded to a 60 amp alternator, but still, that isn't a lot so was trying to keep the current draw as low as possible.

As you mentioned, the later REP 8000 switched to series wound at some point, and its really difficult to get a PM replacement. Ramsey sells the SW motors that fit as replacements, but you have to re-wire how the solenoid switches function - and until today I didn't really know much about the 3 terminal SW wiring. But, I think I may have a lead on an NOS PM motor replacement from CL...which is good because...

Had to beat the motor to hell to get it all to come apart, but I kind of realized as I worked into the project the motor was probably toast. One of the through going hold-together bolts was seized completely so I had to grind the head off. Lots of white and yellow powdery dust sprinkles keep falling out. Separating the end cap from the cylindrical body with magnets started as a pry and turned into a beat it apart with large crow bar. I could tell it has had a lot of water in it. I finished taking it apart just to get a good look and learn what I could and maybe salvage a few parts. The pics don't look as bad as it really is...1" long flakes of rust rot and dirt fell out as it came apart. The end cap is half covered in mineralization. I'll take another look in the morning - maybe I can pull the winding out and wire brush the magnets and housing out etc, but I think its toast. I wouldn't sleep too well at night knowing how iffy it probably would be - especially for a last chance self recovery piece as critical as the winch.

[xaza]

If you have a meter that is able to measure mega ohms you can test the winding to the casing. I don't have a mega ohm meter but mine does read mega ohms, just not as reliably, would be willing to test it for you. Any reading is a sign that the motor is bad due to deterioration of coating on windings. It will draw high amps as the current jumps through the unprotected windings to the housing thus preventing power running where you want it to. I know Bob's Electric Motors is the best place to find unusual HVAC motors and they may be able to help but am not sure.

[Jim]

Summarizing your fine disassembly post!!


Had to beat the motor to hell to get it all to come apart


hold-together bolts was seized completely


Lots of white and yellow powdery dust sprinkles keep falling out.


started as a pry and turned into a beat it apart with large crow bar.


1" long flakes of rust rot and dirt fell out


covered in mineralization

That's a list!




I think I may have a lead on an NOS PM motor replacement from CL...

Um, yea, C/L could well be your friend!

[FINOCJ]

Been a long day in the garage between the tacoma and the cj. The tacoma has fresh oil and coolant but still working on misfire. the winch project is progressing and haven't even gotten to the locking hub issue - hope its an easy one. Have a good night all...back at tomorrow learning something new.

[FINOCJ]

Well, the front hubs may have been a free (at least monetarily, maybe not pride) fix. For the winch motor, I went with the replacement option. From my CL winch and accessory searches over the years, I knew of an add for a 1990's Ramsey REP 8000 motor for PM winch (2 terminal) that was still tagged and boxed sitting on someone's shelf that they had ordered and kept as a spare. I had attempted to contact this guy a year or more ago when I got my winch for cheap off CL - there was some concern the original motor may have not been good. It got pretty hot just spooling stuff in and out and I had to futz with the terminals to get it too work (I also remember now after taking it apart on Fri why I didn't take it apart originally - It was so corroded and seized together that I would have probably destroyed it. So I ended up destroying it on Fri when I took it apart:rolleyes:). I thought then about just getting this motor as a replacement. Luckily, the guy still had it and I bought it - probably paid a bit of a premium, but I needed it more than he needed to sell it, and its an identical, made in the USA, original manufacturer replacement.

First pic is the new motor. 2nd pic is it freshly installed on the winch - which I was able to do without removing the remainder of the winch from the jeep - note the extra cable that I had to wrap around the bumper last week when I couldn't reel it back in. 3rd pic is the cable neatly spooled using the new winch motor. Didn't even get warm spooling. Still have to put my tow hook back on the winch plate but its looking ready to test out again this week!

[Eagle6]

A job well done.

[Jim]

Congrats!


(and no worries about pride from us folks - we've all been there - and will likely re-visit)