1977 J10 Honcho "Magnum"

[TyTheJeepGuy]

My friends didn't think that calling it a Honcho was enough, so they refer to it as the Honcho Magnum and even though they're mocking it, I kinda like it.

I didn't think I'd be making a build thread so my apologies for the lack of details and photos up to this point, but I'll be more thorough in documenting anything else I do to it. That way the people here who know way more than I do can point out what I did wrong before it falls apart on the road :)

The Honcho Magnum was a snowplow for a ranch in Evergreen since I believe the early 80's, before that I'm not sure. My dad bought it in Oct 2018. It drove for about a year but the engine had compression issues, so he sent it in to a shop to have it rebuilt including overboring (I lost the spec sheet :( so I don't know by how much) and a replaced cam shaft, and it has a 4-barrel carb.
Its been in the shop since November 2019 having the transmission rebuilt (and rebuilt, and rebuilt) but I finally got it out of the hands of those goobers and now I'm starting this build thread for whatever I do to it.

Attached is a picture of the Honcho Magnum getting loaded onto the trailer when my Dad bought it.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I don't like camper covers on pickups, personal preference. This one is currently in my yard, if you want it on your truck, come pick it up for Free.99!

The rear bumper is easily the ugliest thing on this vehicle, if you don't count the front bumper that held the snow plow. I figured I could pop it off and get it looking nice and rugged, but nothing is ever that simple of course. The bolts were super rusted out, one of them had the angle grinder taken to it. Then I used a sander attachment on the grinder to try and grind down the rust and get a good surface for painting. Underneath the bumper (sorry no photos) is in such rough shape that I gave up and decided to just put lipstick on the pig, and a friend of my manager has agreed to fab me up a custom replacement bumper. In the meantime, the Ace hardware rusty metal paint actually looks awesome to me. I have it mocked in place in this photo, I got some wrong bolt sizes so its barely held on there for now.

I'm also not a fan of the side steps, I want a rugged offroad look to my 4x4 truck. I think the side steps looked great if I was going for a road warrior look, but this isn't a Dodge (cool as they are), this here is a Jeep!
So the steps are in the yard.
5044950450504515045250453

[jayson44]

sweet! those trucks are awesome!
J.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Thanks! I'm hoping to get it shaped up enough to bring it out for some of the easier club ventures, maybe Barbour Fork or Devils Canyon

[TyTheJeepGuy]

The headlights that came with it were probably kept true to the original as it didn't see much street time, but since this is more of a resto-mod than a restore I decided better lights = better. A lot of the full size jeep forum posts online talked about Hella H4, and compared to an LED setup they were much cheaper and I think they look great. Here's a pic with them installed.

[Java]

That is awesome. :thumb: Good looking dog too.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Thanks, that is the shop supervisor.

[glacierpaul]

My neighbor has this one, not sure the year. Love the old Jeep's, got me a J-20. :)

[TyTheJeepGuy]

My neighbor has this one, not sure the year. Love the old Jeep's, got me a J-20

Nice! I've seen some in the yards of mountain towns but so far haven't seen another on the road. I love the FSJs. Saw a Grand Wagoneer doing the Georgetown Ice Races a couple of years ago, I'm hoping to take the J10 this year, maybe even stud some tires.

[FINOCJ]

Hella H4, and compared to an LED setup they were much cheaper and I think they look great. Here's a pic with them installed.

Looks good. Common upgrade for a lot of willys and jeeps - as I clean up the wiring on the 58 willys will do a headlight relay and install the H4s.....Might have to go the same route on the cj at some point, but even the upgrade to Silverstar lights have done pretty darn well, and getting a good modern alternator that can put out decent amps at low rpm also made a big difference. Guessing by 1977, you would have a good internally regulated, low rpm excited alternator - not sure when headlight relays became standard.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Looks good. Common upgrade for a lot of willys and jeeps - as I clean up the wiring on the 58 willys will do a headlight relay and install the H4s.....Might have to go the same route on the cj at some point, but even the upgrade to Silverstar lights have done pretty darn well, and getting a good modern alternator that can put out decent amps at low rpm also made a big difference. Guessing by 1977, you would have a good internally regulated, low rpm excited alternator - not sure when headlight relays became standard.

Yes this is often discussed in the FSJ forums so I was going to look into setting up another relay. I was worried about whether the existing electrical system could handle them, garage tests look good though. I'm waiting on some title paperwork to get it registered and take it out for some night driving.

My Dad was an electrical engineer and it used to have a snowplow rigged up so there is a lot more electrical wiring under the hood than I think is standard. I'm slowly pulling out what I confirm to be dedicated to the plow controls.

[Jim]

not sure when headlight relays became standard.

Yes - 1990 & 1993 Honda Accord
No - 1990 Jeep Wrangler

[FINOCJ]

Yes - 1990 & 1993 Honda Accord
No - 1990 Jeep Wrangler

leave it to jeep to be behind the curve....Dodge trucks/Chrysler into the 80's was still using full load amp gauges in the dash cluster, so maybe that carried over to jeep in the early Chrysler years (would guess that the Chrysler redesign of the YJ in 1992 or so is when the relays went in). Can't use relays with full load amp gauges - of course, most other manufacturers had gone to voltmeters by the mid-70's. Back to regularly scheduled programming....

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Next for the build thread will be a lame fix. Couldn't pass emissions today, found out that somehow there is a missing Air Injector Reaction system (which seems to be a popular "delete") with everything that used to supply it plugged up. So I finally found out what the remaining plugged up tubes are supposed to go to. I can find a replacement pump online but from my repair book, it looks like I'll need some kind of connection hardware that will probably be super fun to find. If anyone has experience with this kind of system, I might need some help!

[FINOCJ]

Next for the build thread will be a lame fix. Couldn't pass emissions today, found out that somehow there is a missing Air Injector Reaction system (which seems to be a popular "delete") with everything that used to supply it plugged up. So I finally found out what the remaining plugged up tubes are supposed to go to. I can find a replacement pump online but from my repair book, it looks like I'll need some kind of connection hardware that will probably be super fun to find. If anyone has experience with this kind of system, I might need some help!

Got a pic? Can you post a schematic diagram of your air pump system - like the one that would be found the the FSM? I used to know more AMC era stuff, but its been awhile since I worked on AMC jeeps. Looked back through the thread - maybe I missed it....this a 360, 304 or 258? saw something about 4bbl carb, so v8 I would guess?

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Got a pic? Can you post a schematic diagram of your air pump system - like the one that would be found the the FSM? I used to know more AMC era stuff, but its been awhile since I worked on AMC jeeps. Looked back through the thread - maybe I missed it....this a 360, 304 or 258? saw something about 4bbl carb, so v8 I would guess?

This one has the AMC 401 (slightly overbored, I'm told by my brother, so I call it the 402 sometimes as a joke).

Sharing images as links to maintain resolution:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YVtChpW7tvgrXLDK8

Included are photos from my Haynes manual, I'll look for the FSM straight from AMC/Jeep.

Thanks in advance!

Edit:
Found this link for FSMs but I couldn't download it at work, I'll be checking it out after.
https://oljeep.com/edge_77_tsm.html

[TyTheJeepGuy]

To anyone who might be looking into it for me, and James specifically, my Dad somehow got the J10 registered as a collectors item. What started my hunt for the air guard system was someone at the DMV telling me I needed to pass emissions to register. I called in this morning to make double sure, and got a different answer. She said that the collectors status of the vehicle remains so I can apply for collectors plates, which I think means I will be emissions-exempt. To me it makes sense that once a vehicle is emissions-exempt, it would be ridiculous to require it to pass emissions later on regardless of current owner. So I will be pursuing going this route and check back in here with the results, hopefully I don't need to go hunting down power-sucking parts :)

[FINOCJ]

Awesome...both my 1970 and 1958 are collector vehicle registered and emissions exempt. Not sure what the cut-off date is for 'collector' status....how that is determined has been changed a few times - especially for 1st time collector registrations - but I think they grandfathered in any vehicles already registered with collector status could continue/renew with the collector status. Hopefully that will work for you...its both nice to not have to deal with the DMV but every 5 years, and especially nice to not have to worry about emissions - except maybe some guilty conscious about pollution. Of course, for the 58 with the road draft tube, there is no oil capture or burn off, so it just leaves its trail along the road - and I do feel that one a bit.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Not sure what the cut-off date is for 'collector' status

Website says 1975 and before, but with of course some confusing exceptions and other options. This is a '77, so somehow my dad got collectors plates. I was there when he took it in Nov 2018 to get emissions tested, he passed and I have the paperwork on my desk currently. So there is a subsection that says if it is at least 32 years old (check!), and you pass emissions within last 12 months, you can apply for collectors plates. So that's the only way he was able to do it I think, but what that means for me is, I think, that I can apply for them as well.

There is some writing that says if it was registered as a collectors vehicle before '09, you get grandfathered in. However, once it changes owners, you will have to re-apply without grandfathered in status, so you'd have to meet some of the other criteria. This case does not apply to me because it was only registered a collectors vehicle in late 2018, so the changing of the owners shouldn't matter, since it wasn't grandfathered in from the '09 "clause."

As for the guilt side of it, I feel it a bit but I won't be daily driving it so that makes me feel better. Also the engine is rebuilt and running "clean," and the only missing system would inject in air to cause a reburn before the catalytic converter. I'm not sure how much that actually did.

If I'm emissions exempt, I'm going to put on a nice performance exhaust sans-catalytic converter since it is missing that AIR system anyway, all I'm going to be doing is clogging up cats left and right. I think my move from an '05 5.7L Hemi w/ average mpg as about 12 on a good month to a 2020 2.0L Turbo as my daily driver is enough positive emissions karma to offset me hauling a dirt bike around in the Honcho occasionally :)

Edit: the 2.0L Turbo, including the wheeling trips (I don't reset my avg mpg counter), is sitting around 19mpg average over the life of the vehicle so far. Not bad!

[Jim]

Is there as max vehicle miles per year restriction with Collector plates?

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Is there as max vehicle miles per year restriction with Collector plates?
There is a subsection that presents another set of conditions to apply under, this is the only one that mentions miles per year restrictions. I'll post the whole text and bold the section I'm referencing, it won't be the one that I try to register through because I don't meet the other qualifications, but I won't be doing that many miles anyway.
About: Vehicles must be (a) Model year 1975 or earlier; or(b) Model year 1976 or later that was registered as a collector's item prior to September 1, 2009; except that a vehicle so registered is not eligible for registration as a collector's item upon sale or transfer to a new owner; OR (c) A model year at least thirty-two years old unless the vehicle was registered before September 1,2009, and meets the requirements of paragraph (b) of this subsection (2). if the vehicle is being registered under this paragraph (c) and in the program area, as defined in section 42-4-304: (i) The vehicle must have passed an emissions test meeting the standards of part 3 of article 4 of this title within the last twelve months before being initially registered by the owner as a collector's item; and (ii) The owner must sign an affidavit DR 2839 that the vehicle will not be driven on roadways for more than four thousand five hundred miles per year. All taxes and fees shall be five times the annual taxes and fees normally assessed.

The last sentence scared me a bit but I guess if I'm good for 5 years then the 5x taxes makes sense.

[Trevor?]

Been off the grid for a bit and just found this.... very, very cool Jeep.

As for emissions, he's got a brand new jeep to drive as well. I think JL+SJ <= TJ when it comes to greenhouse gasses.

[Jim]

I re-read the first post thus the ask: What's it have for engine, drivetrain, axles.

Any underhood pic would be nice.

Any interior and dashboard pix handy?

Thx!

[open_circuit]

Any underhood pic would be nice.

Careful, you'll have to put an "I am over 18" login page up with content like that.

[Jim]

:D Probably - he already said there's a 4BBL under there...

[FINOCJ]

We know its got a 401!....that's why it's not just the honcho, but honcho magnum!

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Hi everyone, I didn't see notifications of posts to this thread. I cleaned out the engine bay recently to an extent knowing that I'll probably be spending a good deal of time in it. Here are some under the hood pics!

Also there is a pic of the "universal" torque converter dust cover that I was able to modify enough to get attached. Its just plastic but I wanted something keeping debris out.

As for the kind of axles and transfer case info, I don't have much. I can try decoding the VIN maybe, and get some pics of it soon. I do know that some previous owner had installed the part-time 4wd conversion kit which is pretty cool. And this might be obvious but its leaf spring suspension all the way around.

Edit: might be worth noting that it has the GM Turbo 400 automatic transmission, that I had fully rebuilt by a shop. It even got put into a "new" case under the warranty from the rebuild, since it kept leaking and failing. Now its working great.

[Jim]

Thx - Interesting to see the heater box in the engine bay. It takes up a bit of space - I can see why they're moved into the passenger area.

What's the item in green? Oil fill & dipstick????

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Its some kind of overflow vent, I think I've seen a tube going from that into the air cleaner somewhere. The repair book calls it the "Crankcase Breather"

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I have no idea how I have 0 interior photos but here's a sneak peek from when my dog and I took it for a joyride (that turned into the transmission cooler lines failing and shooting tranny fluid everywhere) back in February:

[FINOCJ]

Its part of the pcv system....I am not that familiar with the AMC v8 family, but I would guess you have a pcv valve in one of the valve covers that allows excess pressure/blowby gasses to be released into the base of the carb (sometimes even into the air filter housing as on the later AMC I6 258). On the flip side, if the crankcase needs air (has too low pressure), there is a breather or direct air inflow into the crankcase (sometimes through a valve cover) that allows filtered air to bypass the carb/throttle plate/intake manifold and go directly into the crankcase (the breather goes 'through' the intake manifold and into the 'valley' with shared air volume with crankcase). Typically, the breather nipple would have been connected via hose to the air filter housing to get fresh filtered air before going into the carb - most of the time, that gets removed, and people put a straight breather 'cap' that sucks outside (unfiltered) air from the engine bay and filters it as it sucks it through a small filter in the cap. This way, any air taken into through the breather into the crankcase does not come at the expense of air going into the carb and combustion chamber. Remember, that with performance engines, its often harder to get enough air flow into the air/fuel mix than fuel.

Here is a basic diagram of what I am trying to say....in the case of the pic, the intake breather is in the valve cover on the left, but it could just as easily go through the front of the intake manifold into the valley:
https://www.agcoauto.com/content/images/engine/pcv_system_extracting_moisture.jpg

[Jim]

Thanks James. My pause is - I'm not seeing any dipstick (aside from what I believe is the trans dipstick) or oil fill cap on either valve cover.

Yea, a small issue - nothing that needs attention - I'm in curious george mode (not wanting to do paperwork in the office).

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I appreciate all the curious eyes I can get on that engine bay, since I don't know these at all besides what I've already seen for myself. And that isn't much at this point.

[FINOCJ]

Ty can answer exactly where it is, but I'd guess it back by the rear cylinder on the driver side - lower down than you think under the heads. Often its hidden under the spark plug wires/boots. I think you can see it under the #5 plug boot in the last engine bay photo he posted...

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Yep that's it with the blue handle

[TyTheJeepGuy]

So I finally got a DMV appointment. I had called in to confirm that the Collectors Vehicle status should stay with the vehicle in my case but the employee I had an appointment with today disagreed, which I was expecting. However on a technicality, I am able to drive it through Nov 2023 because my brother's name was on the title when it last passed emissions, so if I kept the title in both of our names I can keep that same plate. So I have a little over 3 years to collect the missing emissions system components and get them installed.

[Getaklu]

Nice when a technicality actually works in your favor.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Yeah that's for sure. Also I was able to find most of the parts at a site called Team Grand Wagoneer so I'm going to collect them and try to install them. I've seen some forums actually claim that they kept the engine running cooler with this secondary air injection system kept on the vehicle, which is surprising to me.

[Spieg]

Is there as max vehicle miles per year restriction with Collector plates?

Yes, but nobody ever checks it.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

From what I had read, you only had to sign an affidavit that you would only drive x number of miles in a year if you registered as Collectors Vehicle through a certain way. I believe it was the way where it was not 1975 or newer. 1975 and newer I don't think there is a mileage limit.

[ColoJeeper]

When I put the collector plates on my Dodge truck, I signed a paper saying that I wouldn't drive it more than 4000 miles a year. The plates are 5 year renewable, but still fall under the emission testing every two years.

[Jim]

but still fall under the emission testing every two years.

??? Really ??? That's my only interest in moving to collector plates - to not have to do the frequent emissions hassle. I was thinking that if a plate only needed to renew every 5 then emissions would be only every 5. If you don't do emissions on year 2, what do they do to make you get emissions?

EDIT: Do you get a 5 year plate sticker or do they send stickers every year (thus not send the next sticker unless emissions is tended)?

[ColoJeeper]

I may be wrong about the emission part of this, as I can't find anything in writing to support this, though I am sure it is what they told me in the office when I picked up the plates. They give you a 5 year sticker to put on the plates. Guess I will find out fairly soon if they send me something inquiring about a emission test as I am about two years into having collector plates on this truck.

[FINOCJ]

For my 1970 (which falls in the all inclusive 1975 or earlier vehicles), the plate comes with a sticker for 5 years, no emissions needed. When renewed after 5 years, its another 5 year sticker, no emission necessary. The 1958 that I did last year also was one time registration without emission for 5 years. I think it gets a bit more complicated when you get into some of the later 70 and early 80 vehicles that got registered with collector plates at some point before changes were made to the law....This is where the 'grandfathered' in type rules come into play as long as the vehicle stays with same owner, and/or emissions testing etc....

[TyTheJeepGuy]

The two years that I was referencing was under one of the potential "loopholes" that I was going to shoot for to get it registered. For the normal case it is 5 years between emissions.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I had started talking with my manager (Kevin, he came along for Kelly Flats so some of you may know him) about the Honcho, and he told me his friend is great at making his own bumpers. I got to check out some of his friend Lee's work and I was really impressed. So given that I am not a fan of the snowplow "bumper," I decided to ask him to make me a custom one.

He is also going to take the work I did with the rear bumper and finish it out correctly, by replace rusted out sections with new steel plate, and attempting to get the bend out of it. So I can keep that cool original looking rear bumper.

Check out his work in these photos:

[Java]

That looks awesome, simple and functional. Nice lines on it too. :thumb:

[derf]

I may want to talk to your guy about building a custom bumper for my Comanche. Something similar in the lines is what I'd like, along with a Warn 8274 winch mount, which is way different than standard winch mounts.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Well his work is good and I think he likes doing it. I'll run it by him. Also on his JK he has some really cool rock sliders for his differentials. Has me thinking for my Wrangler :)

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Update for the Honcho Magnum:

After resolving myself to having to pass emissions I started collecting a bunch of parts to recreate the systems that were taken off. I found that the Haynes manual really wasn't helpful for me, of course they're assuming that 100% of the system is sitting right there and you just have to swap out one piece. Recreating it from scratch is a whole other deal. I found the diagrams from the Technical Service Manual specific for the ol Honcho's year was the best resource, those are on oljeep.com.

I'm starting with probably the hardest, which is the AIR Guard system. Here is a diagram from the TSM:

https://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAYIAAAGkCAYAAAA 8DyKiAAAgAElEQVR4AezdCfx9 Vw/8PpXUtJQNEWMsZUxY2uyFEqh7BJKZciSsk2WRPYp 5It 1CSGZoSlZBMixRFSkKyh1RM 577fzxPXl f32fOvffc7XvP/d7P /E433O/Z/mcz d9Pp/3/n6fz5s0aBhoGGgYaBjYawx83l6Pvg2 YaBhoGGgYWDSGEGbBA0DDQMNA3uOgcYI9nwCtOE3DDQMNAw0Rt DmQMNAw0DDwJ5joDGCPZ8AbfgNAw0DDQONEbQ50DDQMNAwsOcY aIxgzydAG37DQMNAw0BjBG0ONAw0DDQM7DkGGiPY8wnQht8w0D DQMNAYQZsDDQMNAw0De46Bxgj2fAK04TcMNAw0DDRG0OZAw0DD QMPAnmOgMYI9nwBt A0DDQMNA40RtDnQMNAw0DCw5xhojGDPJ0AbfsNAw0DDQGMEbQ4 0DDQMNAzsOQYaI9jzCdCG3zDQMNAw0BhBmwMNAw0DDQN7joHGC PZ8ArThNww0DDQMNEbQ5kDDQMNAw8CeY6Axgj2fAG34DQMNAw0 DjRG0OdAw0DDQMLDnGGiMYM8nQBt w0DDQMNAYwRtDjQMNAw0DOw5Bhoj2PMJ0IbfMNAw0DDQGEGbAw 0DDQMNA3uOgcYI9nwCtOE3DDQMNAw0RtDmQMNAw0DDwJ5joDGC PZ8AbfgNAw0DDQONEbQ50DDQMNAwsOcYaIxgzydAG37DQMNAw0 BjBG0ONAw0DDQM7DkGGiPY8wnQht8w0DDQMNAYQZsDDQMNAw0D e46Bxgj2fAK04TcMNAw0DDRG0OZAw0DDQMPAnmOgMYI9nwBt A0DDQMNA40RtDnQMNAw0DCw5xhojGDPJ0AbfsNAw0DDQGMEbQ4 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Team Grand Wagoneer is a website that I found to be basically the only place to get the components for this in good shape, short of hunting around junkyards. I have nothing against the junkyards I just would rather be sure of what I'm getting than make a trip out and have it be a bust.

I had a lot of the components ordered months ago and sitting in my garage, but I got distracted by first building a snowbike, then selling it when it wasn't for me and buying a snowmobile, then smacking the front of said snowmobile into a tree and having to replace its bumper.

My brother visited and we gave the J10 a couple of shake down runs to get lumber for a gate project and it did great, so with some confidence I even drove it to Conifer and back to help Andy out a little bit with his Jeep build. So I decided it was about time I pulled mine into my garage for some work. I found that I was lacking a lot, so I'm still waiting on more orders to come in from Team Grand Wagoneer, and even some from Ebay. I feel a lot better about understanding the system now though so I think with the right parts, I should be able to hook it all up. The hardest part I believe will be mounting the air pump and getting a belt to it, since there is an aftermarket distributor that is huge and I think a custom bracket for the PS pump, which is what the bracket for the Air pump is attached to. I might need to see if I can get someplace to fab a solution for me if it doesn't work out, fingers crossed.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I have a rare bit of good news concerning getting the unfun emissions "build" completed, it may have just turned fun!

I finally collected all of the (very expensive) components as I mentioned before for getting the "AIR Guard" system installed, went to try and mount the air pump and immediately broke the head off of a brand new bolt, right behind the power steering pump pulley so that extraction would be a big pain. I had seen a few smog/air pumps while searching for mine that were electric instead of belt-driven, and decided to call a Colorado emissions tech to confirm that would pass before investing in that route. Here's where the good news comes in, the tech shot down the electric pump idea, but then suggested that there is a special EFI system that would both give me the obvious benefits of EFI and no need for that complex Air Guard system! An EFI system was desirable but I held off on trying to go for something like that since it wouldn't be worth much to me if I couldn't get the thing re-registered.

I set up an appointment with the tech for Friday morning to get a more thorough overview of everything I'll need to pass emissions and finally get this truck not feeling like a pipe dream. This is awesome because up to this point I feel like I've just been stumbling along without much hope for getting it to pass.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Well it couldn't all be good news of course, but I'll take "bad" information over non-information. Emissions tech today told me that the intake manifold that my Dad had installed on the engine was not EGR-compliant, which is an emissions system I will still need to have setup. What is currently on there is an Edelbrock Performer series but non-EGR. They make an EGR version and everyone is out of stock, I suppose because of Covid. I have one on backorder but might not be til July, and I can't install the EFI conversion until the new intake is on.

But at least now I have my heading and a resource in the form of that emissions tech so I'm still ahead of where I was on getting this truck back to life.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I had the EFI kit come in but the pandemic has apparently stopped up production of intake manifolds for AMC V8s that are EGR-compliant. What I currently have on the ol Honcho Magnum is an Edelbrock Performer series, non-EGR. I have the same thing but with EGR backordered that should hopefully ship from the manufacturer by the end of this month.


In the meantime, there's a good deal of work that can be done short of actually installing the new throttle body to a new EGR-compliant intake manifold. I called Andy up (here's his WK build thread: https://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?28259-Andy-s-WK) for some help and we spent a good portion of a Sunday getting this project under way. I think we both were excited at the thought of firing up this big engine eventually with electronic fuel injection!

By the end of the day, we had removed the carb from the intake manifold, removed the old main fuel line (and a vestigial line leftover from when the auxiliary fuel tank was in use), and located a new (included with the EFI kit!) fuel hose. We were about to mount the new fuel pump to the frame but either the kit didn't come with a nut and bolt for that or I lost it somehow, and I didn't have anything quite that size in the garage. The good news is the hole in the frame and bracket are ready to go once I make a quick stop at an Ace hardware.

Andy removed the manual fuel pump and installed the provided block plate and gasket. He also removed the AIR system air injection piping from the exhaust manifolds. Where we're going we have no need for such things.

There's a lot more to go but I'm glad Andy was there for the first day to have another brain to bounce things off of before tearing into the old truck.

Here's the emissions-compliant EFI kit I'm installing. So far I am very impressed with how this was put together and the instructions are great:
https://howellefi.com/product/tbi-kit-1972-93-304-360-401-v-8-jeep-amc-emissions-legal/

And links to the installation instructions to get an idea of what the project entails:
https://howellefi.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Model-JP-V8-304-360-401-AMC-V8-Engines-1972-1993.pdf

I think the next thing I'll do after mounting the fuel pump is cutting a hole in the exhaust to mount the provided O2 sensor. The kit comes with a bung to weld in but I bought a clamp-on bung instead.

[FINOCJ]

TBI - Nice! If I ever get the sbc350 running in the 58 and decide to keep it, it may very well go TBI. Dealing with the fuel pump and higher pressure fuel lines is one the biggest hassles I think - looks like you are probably going with a frame mounted electric pump back near the tank? How are you handling the fuel line? hard line or braided line with AN fittings?
Would love to know more about removing/plugging? the air injection system on the exhaust manifolds - good luck!

[Jim]

You will enjoy the EFI setup!

Has anyone mentioned external fuel pump heat / overheating? Perhaps it's not a thing - I only have one comment saying it is an issue... My MPFI conversion uses an inside the tank pump (and I can help if you wish to relocate to in-tank). The guy (Parker Co area) that James found for the my rear steel trunk had a jeep with a V8 conversion with an external, frame mounted fuel pump. He commented on having overheat issues (vapor lock?).

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Thanks James.

Obviously I don't have this system up and running yet to truly confirm, but according to Howell the fuel pressure is indeed higher than what the manual pump setup was creating but it is still pretty mild. A quote from the installation instructions:
"Since the TBI system operates on only 12PSI fuel pressure, it is not necessary to have high-pressure hose, or aircraft type threaded connections."
The hose they supplied is 5/16" fuel hose and worm gear clamps. When I was researching Holley EFI kits I was also concerned about the new fuel lines that would be needed; this kit seems to have simplified that quite a bit. The fuel pump is only 13 bucks from Howell which is awesome. I like that this kit is pretty much an EFI system designed for a GM truck that they just adapted for Jeeps with AMC V8s. Most of the components, including the ECU, have listed part numbers and are still available. There's also a "limp home mode" that sounds reassuring.

The air injection manifold holes are plugged with 9/16-18 bolts, the instructions helpfully included this info in their "Removal of non-required parts" section. This part was easy for me, because the air injection pipes are brand new and installed by me. I ordered the crazy expensive bolts with air injection holes in them but never installed them, I just had mocked up the air injection pipes to the manifolds using the bolts that were already blocking those ports. I'll have a pretty sizeable Craigslist ad after this is all over.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Thanks Jim, more than just not having to maintain a 70s era emissions system, there'll be more average power and more importantly, I'll be able to enjoy this both around town and at 10,000 ft for some stellar camping trips!

I have not heard of the overheating, but I am doing exactly that: frame-mounted external pump. So maybe I should just order a spare 13 dollar pump and keep it in the recovery bag, and then if I have a problem with overheating I could start looking into that relocation. At that point I will definitely be looking for some help with the in-tank solution.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Attached is a photo of the now-unnecessary brand-new air injection pipes. On the top was a one-way valve (not pictured, which I also have and won't need :)) that would keep the exhaust air from getting into the AIR Guard system. (smog air pump system)

[Jim]

"Since the TBI system operates on only 12PSI fuel pressure, it is not necessary to have high-pressure hose, or aircraft type threaded connections."

Sweet! I learned my lesson on buying fuel injection rated fuel line (the hard way).

With your system being lower pressure than typical FI, the overheat issue the other guy mentioned will perhaps not be any concern. A bonus in having the pump being low cost too.

[FINOCJ]

With your system being lower pressure than typical FI, the overheat issue the other guy mentioned will perhaps not be any concern. A bonus in having the pump being low cost too.

I believe the system Ty is installling is traditional GM Throttle Body Injection (TBI - and tuned for the AMC engine) and requires quite a bit lower fuel pressure lines than multi-port fuel injection. And as you mention, I don't think overheating is as much of an issue...MPFI fuel pumps are more like 40 psi (maybe) and they often need to be submerged in the fuel tank to keep them cool. And yet it seems one of the most common failure points on older vehicles is the fuel pump - be it OEM mechanical style or aftermarket electric - definitely carry a spare! I carry a spare mechanical and a back-up electric as well for my old junk.

TBI is more carb like than modern MPFI systems in that the fuel-air mix is still occuring at in the throttle body and as it goes into the intake and then down the different intake runners or pathways to the different cylinder intake valves (MPFI injects the fuel further downstream and closer to the intake valve for each cylinder - thus there are multi-ports for injections - one for each cylinder) - the throttle body is sort of a 'fancy' carb that sits on the intake in place of the carb. In short, the main difference is it can more accurately control fuel air mix (has a computer monitoring system that takes input from all the standard things like tach signal, throttle position, MAP etc and the O2 sensor in the exhaust.) The fuel is also more atomoized as its injected instead of just droplets going through the carb pathways and mixing in the venturri air swirl - and the pressurized fuel injection is also unaffected by off camber issues that can plague some carbs that are mostly gravity and vacuum fed from the fuel bowl. GM started doing this in the 80s with great success, but Jeep never went the TBI route - they ran carb up until the early 90s on most things and then went straight to MPFI. I think most aftermarket kits (Howell/Holley/EZEFI/FiTech etc) are all basically GM parts with slightly different computer tuning or proprietary self-learning software that modifies the tune). I've spent WAY too much time looking into TBI for the cj5 - and its the inconsistent tach signal of the odd-fire v6 that is the hiccup as well as my dual tank set-up with switching valve doesn't lend itself to electric pusher pumps all that well.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

James, you've probably already seen this but they have a kit for the 72 and newer CJ5 with the 4.2L I6. I'm assuming yours has the 3.8L?
https://howellefi.com/product/tbi-kit-1972-80-cj-4-2l-offroad-emissions-legal/

Not sure why that wouldn't work with a 4.2 in a 1970 CJ, what really changed in those two model years?

Also can confirm James' info on the TBI, its like a carb that they gave a brain and electronically activated gas squirters, that needs sensors to know how much to squirt. Bolts right in place of a carb on the intake so its really easy to retrofit to carbed vehicles.

[FINOCJ]

James, you've probably already seen this but they have a kit for the 72 and newer CJ5 with the 4.2L I6. I'm assuming yours has the 3.8L?
https://howellefi.com/product/tbi-kit-1972-80-cj-4-2l-offroad-emissions-legal/

Not sure why that wouldn't work with a 4.2 in a 1970 CJ, what really changed in those two model years?



Huge change...Kaiser sold Jeep to AMC in the spring of 1970, but the 1971 model year was kept the same as the 1970. In 1972, AMC made the changes to their engines (the famous 232/258 inline 6 and 304 v8) and quite a bit of other stuff....1971 is the last of the early cj5 and 72 is the beginning of the intermediate cj5 vintages. The Kaiser era ran a 3.7 v6 that had been bought from buick - its commonly known as the dauntless 225 odd fire. Its history is a bit weird, but Buick basically took their v8 and chopped two cylinders off and rushed it into production using as much of the v8 parts slightly modified as possible. One of its unique features is the cylinder firing is not consistent...thus the 'odd-fire'. Most engines fire a spark plug with a consisent time gap between each spark from one cylinder to the next (assuming constant rpm here). The odd fire fires two consecutive cylinders with a small time gap, and then there is a large time gap to the 3rd cylinder, another short gap to the 4th, large to the 5th and short to the 6th....the 2 large time gaps are basically the missing two cylinders from the v8 design. So basically, even at constant rpm, a tach signal from the ignition is inconsistent...the computer sees 2 quick sparks and then a big gap and thinks the engine rpm is slowing and then it thinks the rpm is increasing again as the quick sparks happen and so on and so forth. At higher cruising rpms, it all kinds of evens out and doesn't cause too much issue, but at lower rpm (say slow wheeling) the computer starts causing all sorts of issues and the engine idle becomes very erractic. This is all assuming that you have replaced the points distributor with HEI (and this is true I think for any TBI conversion such as old sbc's), as points distributors with traditional ignition coils don't put out a sharp enough defined electric signal for the computer to pick-up...Varioius signal filters can be used to help the situation, but HEI usually is the trick, or a crank sensor tach signal is needed. I decided I am happy with my slightly upgraded points distributor to pertronix, but don't want to go full HEI, and fitting a crank sensor has some complications (a friend just finished it within the last couple weeks and his odd fire is apparently awesome with TBI now - but it has been almost a full year of troubleshooting, debugging and fabricating pieces for the crank sensor - which is basically the only solution.) Honestly, after getting the cj5 running so well with carb and basic ignition etc - I don't really care to change it. But I am interested to try out the TBI on something a bit more straight forward, and a sbc would be just about right. Interesting enough, after AMC bought Jeep, they sold the dauntless v6 back to Buick, whom made it a bit bigger (3.8L 231 c.i.) to match the now slightly bigger buick v8 but kept it odd fire for another year or two. They eventually made the needed changes to the internals (crank, camshaft etc) to make the engine an even fire and installed HEI from the factory....This engine became the Buick Grand National and eventually was turbo'd in the 90s or so. Any all of these engine use the same block and can be dropped directly in place of each other....The odd-fire has a distinct low rpm grumble that some love, but if my current 225 (bored 60 over and at its limit for larger pistons rings etc) ever needs replaced, I think an even-fired 231 would be nice.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Wow, that is nuts. I think I'd stick with a carb as well. Its amazing that you know someone who was able to successfully fab a custom crank sensor, sounds harder than doing an engine swap to the AMC inline six that was in my dad's CJ5.

[FINOCJ]

Wow, that is nuts. I think I'd stick with a carb as well. Its amazing that you know someone who was able to successfully fab a custom crank sensor, sounds harder than doing an engine swap to the AMC inline six that was in my dad's CJ5.

The early cj5 are also known as the 'short nose' 5, as AMC lengthed the engine compartment by redoing to grill and pushing the radiator forward and pushed the firewall rearward 3" to fit the inline 6. Overall wheelbase went from 81" to 84" as well - all of that found in the cowl area behind the front fender and in front of the windshield. Trying to squeeze an inline 6 into an early cj5 is a fool's errand...Big changes occured starting with the 72 model year. A 70 or 71 is pretty much the same as the first year of production (1955) with Willys and the F4 134 engine.

[Java]

Your Jeep is looking great, can't wait to see it "done". I ran the Howell kit on an 88 YJ with a 4.2, it is all GM TBI stuff from the 90s and it works GREAT.

[Jim]

Buick basically took their v8 and chopped two cylinders off and rushed it into production using as much of the v8 parts slightly modified as possible. [...] the 2 large time gaps are basically the missing two cylinders from the v8 design.

I was awaiting your reply (somewhat knowing what was coming). Perhaps I missed it in past write-ups, but now I finally understand the odd-fire issue - a V-8 chopped with the rest running in V-6 form - missing the two cyls. Thx.

[FINOCJ]

sorry to trample on Ty's thread, but maybe this is inspiring to see TBI work on an old engine...my friend Kyle who I have run the rubicon with the last few years. He started this TBI on the odd-fire v6 right after last year's trip in July and just got it working right. I am having some technical difficulties with loading the video - so here is just a link to his webpage...18 pages and 10 monts to get it right....hopefully you can see it without being logged in.
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/howell-odd-fire-v6-fuel-injection-kit-install.143325/page-18#post-1662510

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I'm beyond excited to get this project done but still waiting on Edelbrock assembly lines to get back in action, I suppose. In the meantime, does anyone who has replaced an intake manifold on a V8 have any tips or suggestions? I think I have the basic procedure down and it comes with installation instructions. I'm interested if anyone preps the intake manifold a certain way or has any insight on common things to look out for.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-xeB-m9wB8&t=1113s

Check this out! Almost makes me wish I went for the ported fuel injection instead of TBI, especially since I had to upgrade the intake manifold anyway, but I'm going to do exactly what the emissions tech says and I don't think TBI will be much worse than ported fuel injection.

Those are awesome numbers in the video out of a 304, imagine a 401+

[Jim]

Almost makes me wish I went for the ported fuel injection instead of TBI

"It" never ends...

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Got too impatient, wanted to work all the kinks out of the EFI conversion so that when the new intake came, I could slap it on, hook up the EGR system and be ready to pass emissions. Also... wouldn't it be fun to have EFI without all the waiting? :)

Some issues I encountered along the way:

- The vehicle speed sensor adapter was too wide. Bought a 7" extension to give the flexibility to get up and over a hump on the transfer case that apparently isn't a problem in other applications of this kit.
- The harness only wants to go in one way. This makes sense to keep the mess down, but despite my best efforts, I still drilled a hole on the wrong downpipe according to how far the harness wants to let the o2 sensor wire stretch. I will have to call up an exhaust shop and see if they can weld up that hole and properly weld in the bung for the other downpipe.
- I had to buy a lot of extra wire and vacuum and fuel line tubing to complete this.
- My return lines to the tank they said should be fine but they absolutely spray fuel all along the frame. Whoops. More fuel line!
- Took me a while to find the Tach reading because I don't have a stock ignition coil / distributor. The coil is in the distributor, its an HEI. I have a pigtail connector for power/tach coming in the mail but for now I'm just using crimped spades.
- The harness really doesn't give you much room for finding a place to put the ECU. Either you have to pull a lot of your wiring closer to the firewall hole or the HUGE ECU unit case is right at the hole, near your pedals.
- Speaking of the firewall hole, they said 1 1/2" to fit everything through, and yet gave a MASSIVE fuse block with wings on it for mounting. I made a much larger cut than 1 1/2" that's for sure. Custom saw job; its ugly gentlemen just warning you now.
- The instructions can only be so helpful when it comes to making the right electrical connections. Luckily I had a test light and eventually found the wires and fuse block locations necessary. For example, the ECU fuse block required a connection to a wire that was hot during crank and run, but off when key switched off.

And what we've all been waiting for! Video evidence of the Honcho Magnum with electronic throttle body injection!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wQRKbqmhFwvzfiRq8

[speedkills]

It's alive!

[The StRanger]

It's alive!
Nice !

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Things left to do before the J10 is to a drivable state (that I am aware of at this point):

- I ran a new return line but the metal section just before the tank is corroded and leaking heavy. Will have to drop the tank to figure that out
- I hooked up a new AWD selector vacuum switch (https://www.bjsoffroad.com/Transfer-Case-Vacuum-Switch--Dash-Mounted_p_1595.html) but I need to follow the vacuum lines and make sure they're all hooked up correctly, then test out that the awd will actually engage
- The brake booster needs to be T'd in to the vacuum off of the intake manifold, currently only being used by the new T case switch
- I need to pull the thermostat housing from the intake in order to install a new (unused until I get the emissions stuff back together) CTO switch. The vacuum nipples stick out too far and you can't back it out while the thermostat housing is connected to the intake manifold.

My goal is to be able to take it on a light trial / camping trip by the end of the summer.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Turns out, I didn't need to run new fuel line for the return line. The existing metal return line was just disconnected from a short rubber hose on the fuel sending unit. I blame the shop that I initially sent the Honcho too, they hooked up the sending unit for me (eventually, after letting the truck sit for months). I also directly connected the brake booster to the intake manifold instead of T'ing it in, just as a temporary way. I will need to get some kind of reducer T since the vacuum hoses for the AWD selector that were there are waaaay smaller than the brake booster line.

Yesterday I removed the thermostat housing to install a new CTO switch (will be unused until I get the EGR system hooked up) and dropped the tank to find out the return line leak issue. I was pretty proud of being able to drop the tank and get it back up into position after confirming the leak problem was fixed with tank still unmounted.

The leaks fixed and the booster hooked up meant that I could take this thing for a joyride finally! I just went up and down the street quickly since I don't have an air cleaner yet.

Next steps:
- I need a better way to power the fuse block for the ECU. Right now I'm just doing the classic "wrap a wire around the fuse" method. Open to suggestions! (related pic attached)
- The ECU fuse block and ECU itself need to be mounted somehow in the cab. There is such a mess of wires there already this might be more difficult than it should be.
- Figure out vacuum from one source on intake manifold for both brake booster and AWD selector
- Confirm that AWD selector works after visually checking that the vacuum lines are actually hooking in to the transfer case
- Get a friend to help me put hood back on
- Have a pigtail coming in for distributor connections instead of the current janky spade connectors
- It idles kinda rough, need to check power to fuse block for ECU and power to HEI distributor
- I want to remove the unused aux tank, free up more bed space
- I'm going to have a shop weld in the O2 sensor bung on the drivers side downpipe. My clamp-on is on the passenger side and it forces the o2 sensor wire to be way too close to the exhaust manifold.

A couple more videos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SXNKi4ijp2Kcr1bg9

[open_circuit]

https://www.amazon.com/Wirthco-0303-1233-Battery-Doctor-Roundtapper/dp/B000CQDRSE

[TyTheJeepGuy]

the TBI project is all done up for now because I finally got a spacer in the mail for the air cleaner to clear the throttle linkage. Until I can hook up emissions systems w/ new intake manifold, the installation step of this project is done. Its not the most beautiful thing you've ever seen but all of the electrical and vacuum connections are solid and everything is mounted.
It runs kind of rough, rough idle. There is an idle screw that pretty much just pushes on the throttle linkage plate thing to give it more gas at idle, that is only supposed to be adjusted after you get the rest of the timing in place. Based on their description in the installation pdf it sounds like its a timing issue. They described that it could be that if there was a hiccup from idling to open throttle and there definitely is, more so than with the carb. I'm just pretty happy it runs well!

The check engine light is on, I have an OBD1 reader coming in that should be able to tell me what is going on. My theory is it is going to complain about the EGR and PCV systems not being in place.

[Jim]

Is timing showing as proper?

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I don't have a timing light :) this is my first vehicle with a distributor so still learning and gathering tools!

[Jim]

Local auto parts store might have one on their free loan program

(for about as often as you'd need to use it - perhaps the lower cost route)

[FINOCJ]

Local auto parts store might have one on their free loan program

(for about as often as you'd need to use it - perhaps the lower cost route)

Maybe...they aren't that common anymore. I've got one if need to borrow. Also have a vaccum gauge which can really help with getting initial timing set (and idle mixture when you had the carb...the TBI will take care of that now).
Also, do you have vaccum advance on the distributor...at idle it shouldn't affect initial timing, but good practice to disconnect and plug it when setting timing.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Local auto parts store might have one on their free loan program

(for about as often as you'd need to use it - perhaps the lower cost route)

Oh yeah I love using those. Except for wearable stuff like pipe cutters. I'll try that

[Jim]

good practice to disconnect and plug it when setting timing.

There's a thought - does the FI system depend on dist advance (vac / mech) or does the FI computer handle the advance?

[FINOCJ]

Depends on the system he is running...early TBI systems only controlled mixture, then later added in timing as well. I was just assuming his was only doing mixture based on his comments of needing a timing light and distributor etc.....besides, what is this talk of only rarely needing a timing light - am I the only one who carries one in their tool bag for trail runs (of course, I also carry a set of points as well).

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I think instructions say to disconnect the vacuum advance for my kit.

Edit: when timing not full time. Disconnected and plugged temporarily for timing

[Jim]

what is this talk of only rarely needing a timing light

LOL - This is coming from the guy that "should probably" use a timing light more often than he does. Also the guy that mis-diagnosed a "bad noise" in the engine bay and let a distributor chew-itself-to-pieces (https://www.jimwilliamson.net/automobile/2019-11-03--1993-accord-distributor-failure-309000-miles/index.html).

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Ok so unfortunately no auto parts stores in my area loan out a timing light. I got one for 45 dollars, figure I will keep this truck for at least a couple more years to make it worth it ;)

I have to say, as a noob, timing an engine sounded super daunting. I might not have nailed it but I solved the obvious problem! The kit calls for 8 BTDC (Before Top Dead Center to potentially save someone a Google search). AMC V8s are usually listed in the cylinder firing order diagrams but just in case, the #1 cylinder/spark plug is driver's side, closest to headlights. I felt like a big time mechanic using a screwdriver and a slight twist to time a big ol v8; I'm not sure why I was ever scared of the job.

The truck idles much better now and more importantly, when you press in the right pedal, the Honcho roars right away!

Also, I finally had luck with not getting screwed by a local shop and got a fair price for a weld up of an o2 sensor bung to replace my clamp-on bung. The clamp on would have been fine but I put it on the wrong down pipe (should be driver's side, was passenger's) and it made it stretch by the manifold too close for comfort. Since I needed the hole I made welded up anyway I decided to have the shop properly weld in the other side for me. half an hour, 70 bucks later and I put the sensor in the new bung and drove it home.

Nothing ever ends with these but before I can call it a baseline for successful conversion, I have a big exhaust leak from where the AIR guard system would have injector pipes/bolts and currently has bolts plugging them up. For some reason I checked Ace hardware and AutoZone and no one has 9/16 18 pitch pipe plugs, so I am "special ordering" a set from teamgrandwagoneer.com. Their prices are fair for them but the shipping kinda stinks.

One thing that is ok for now but for the sake of saving the earth and my own embarrassment at gas stations, if I fill up the gas tank nearly all the way the overflow? hose is rotted and dumps gas on the ground. Safety, environmental, and embarrassment concerns put this at the top of the todo list. I REALLY hope I don't have to drop the tank again to resolve this.

[Jim]

I solved the obvious problem!

Great news!

[FINOCJ]

AWESOME! Congrats - keeping taking it one step at a time. This 'old stuff' is easy in many ways - it was all designed with field repair and maintenance in mind. I find computer stuff way more intimidating. One of the reasons timing the engine has a reputation as difficult is traditional distributors have breaker points under the cap, and getting these set right (called setting dwell or point gap) can be a bit more tedious (but not really that bad). If that isn't set right, then it doesn't matter what you do with the distributor's initial timing, its going to have issues. But once the distributors went to breakerless induction (and later HEI style) ignition under the distributor cap (like yours I would guess), its pretty trivial to set the timing. For those with front mounted distributors like my v6, the scariest part is putting my hand on the distributor also puts it very close to the spinning fan blade and belt drives.

FWIW - I don't know if the TBI system reacts to timing changes in the exact same way a traditional carb might, but typically, here at high elevation (over 5000' and often higher in the mountains), running the initial timing more advanced is pretty standard (was the 8 BTDC the only initial timing figure the kit gives, or did they include a range of initial timing based on elevation?). The lower density air we have causes a slower cylinder burn, so advancing the initial timing a bit helps give a bit more burn time to achieve maximum compression on the piston stroke. Typically, most of these engines can run at least 10 BTDC here at high elevation....that is part of why I keep a timing light in my trail kit...for some of our super high elevation trails that go up to 13,000', I sometimes advance the timing even more at the trailhead when airing down. For my v6, OEM spec is 5 BTDC, and I run 8-9 BTDC here in Denver, and for high elevation trails I can push over 12. At the same time, if you err, its always better to err on the side of slightly too little advance than too much advance as too much can cause pre-detonation (pinging). Coming back from argentine pk trail, I forgot to drop it back down when airing up and it started mis-firing a bit as I returned to denver (I think it was at 14).

Typically the other thing that needs adjusting at high elevation is fuel to air mix - of course that is what the TBI should be controlling and you won't have to touch that, but adjusting the fuel mixture can offset some of the timing issues. The TBI will lean out the mixture as you go up in elevation due to the lower O2 concentration, but I think it will also lean it out beyond the optimal air-fuel ratio in response to timing that is not fully advanced...if the cylinder burn is a little slow and a little late, unburnt fuel/air will get pushed out the exhaust and be registered by the O2 sensor and thus its response is to lean it a bit more. You cannot go wrong running it to spec as the kit says - and it will probably run better using the kit settings than any carb no matter how well adjusted (especially if I am the one adjusting the carb!). Just some small things to play with as you get more comfortable using it - and this is where an vacuum gauge can really dial it in. And of course, if you want to go all out, you can investigate the advance mechanism on the distributor (both the vac advance and the mechanical weights) - for now, just make sure they work (the timing light can show you how these are functioning independently). I can show you how I do it on mine if you are ever interested, or can try it on the AMC...I'd love to see it in use with the TBI. You are past the point and building and now to the fun part of 'tinkering' and fine turning - well done!

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Thanks James! I'm hoping (and I think on track for, knock on wood) to bring the J10 for the cleanup runs so you're more than welcome to check out whatever you want out on it there of course!

The manual for the TBI kit says 6-8 BTDC. When I was adjusting the timing I can definitely see what you mean, it sure seems happier earlier than later, did not know it was related to elevation. I chalked it up to potential changes to internal engine components like the cam shaft that I unfortunately have no idea what is in it now after the rebuild. I think going off of feel and performance is ok though.

I also experienced the fun of a front-mounted distributor so the belts and rad fan were too close for comfort for sure.

[FINOCJ]

The manual for the TBI kit says 6-8 BTDC.
great - I am glad its at the more advanced end of the range. You cannot go wrong with it there...when you get everything working and you are bored that there is nothing to fix, you can start to play with the details. Look forward to seeing it on a run....I was really hoping to have the 58 ready for the fall clean-up run, but that seems to be fading day by day that I struggle to get anywhere with it.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

when you get everything working and you are bored that there is nothing to fix, you can start to play with the details

Is this a thing?! :D

Good luck with your 58!

[FINOCJ]

Is this a thing?! :D

Good luck with your 58!

ummm....I don't know...still trying to get to that point

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I'm trying to make it for tomorrow's clean up run. Been working on week on brake jobs, with all this power its now important to be able to stop :)

I had taken it to a brake shop because I've never worked with drum brakes or locking hubs before, and honestly I just wanted to outsource someone checking the brakes. I have a healthy distrust of shops though, and when they quoted me over a thousand dollars telling me all shoes and rotors need replacing, I said no thanks and picked up the "premium" rotors and shoes from Napa for 180 bucks total, including new drum brake and auto adjuster hardware.

I'm not going to lie, the first drum brake kicked my butt. Then I "wasted" a day cleaning my house because between camping trips and working on the J10 I've let the house go. Then last night, the second drum brake went waaaay faster; although getting those springs on took 100% of my strength. I don't know a better way than brute force, I couldn't find a good leverage point. Unfortunately, when switching the truck to backed-in instead of pulled in, I noticed that my fuel return line is once again absolutely uh, spewing fuel. So I guess I'm dropping the tank again tonight. Also, I looked at a picture of the new brake drum kit I sent to my friends very proudly, and realized that when I switched the shoes around so the shorter pad faced front, the auto adjust screw/gear thing is not pressed by the rest of the auto adjust hardware because its backwards. This is the very first step in assembling the new shoes, so it looks like I'm redoing an entire brake job tonight before I can get to dropping the tank and hopefully fixing the return line leak.

Fingers crossed I can get this beast out for the run tomorrow, if not I'll be in the young gun.

[Steve-O]

Were you not able to screw the auto adjuster all the way together, wiggle it out, flip it around and put it back in? Instead of tearing the whole thing apart?

But I feel for ya man. I just did the rear drums on the YJ, thank God for my Haynes manual...

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Yeah for once the Haynes was more helpful than a YouTube video.

I tried doing that first before redoing the whole break job but I was only successful in getting the auto adjuster pin thing out, couldn't get it back it. I think I pulled a muscle trying and it made the rest of the night's tasks harder.

I eventually got the drum corrected and dropped the back of the tank to get access to the lines to the top. This time it was the send line that was leaking. I ran it with the tank half down to try and see if it would leak before finding out after putting it up again :)

Friend (Zach, he's been on a few runs but refuses to join the forum I guess) came over and we did the front pads, rotors looked fine. In the cul de sac the truck seemed to stop nicely, pedal still went lower than I liked but thought it was fine. Was heading down the road yesterday to try and make the cleanup run and it definitely wasn't fine. Not sure what it is, but Shane and my brother have suggested somehow its air in the lines. I don't suspect a fluid leak because I couldn't see any leak signs and the fluid levels in the master cylinder never drop.

[speedkills]

I thought air based on your symptoms but if they worked, you changed pads and rotors and now they are soft them I'm not sure how air would have gotten in your lines as it doesn't seem like you ever opened them up. Also didn't realize they were drums, which I don't know the first thing about, so know I don't have any thoughts on what it could be but I'm curious to learn when you figure it out.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Rear are drums, they say to reverse/forward/reverse/forward til they adjust out (after manually setting them as far as you can).

The subtlety here is that it was stopping alright but then it started taking a lot of pedal and so I went to a shop for a free brake check and they quoted me 1400+ bucks saying both the drum shows and the front pads and rotors were out. From what I could see they were only correct about the front pads.

I was just hoping that replacing the drum shoes (and hardware) and the pads would firm them back up. It did with engine off, but then it goes to floor when its running. Maybe I'll disconnect the vac line to booster and see if it is firm like that just in the garage as a test. There's a whole diag chart and troubleshooting in the manual I'll paste link to below. I was just so disappointed and put off so much to try and make it yesterday that I'm pausing wrenching for a bit to recoop.

https://oljeep.com/edge_77_tsm.html

This website has been a godsend, way better than the haynes manual for some things. So far Haynes was only better for describing how to do the drums.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYYMoZGEzCc

Sounds like this guy had a very similar situation and it was the wheel cylinders, which to be fair the shop quoted for and I didn't notice or I would have swapped those when I did the new drum shoes. So I guess I'm still not done with these freakin rear drums :) Maybe I can replace them without removing the shoes but it will be tight, worst case I just have to do the equivalent of 5 drum shoe jobs, yuck.

[Jim]

If nothing else - it's a learning experience - Class: Life 101

You will KNOW your rear brakes.

A pain now - but the knowledge is in the bank for use later.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Well, I have good news and bad news. Let's start with the good!

The driver's side rear wheel cylinder replacement went well. Quick out and back in, only had to remove one upper spring to maneuver the cylinder out.

The passenger side is the one I started the afternoon with, and oh man it did not go well. There were signs of rounding off on the brake line already. I went to the store and got the recommended "line wrench" once I saw that. It didn't help, due to it already starting to round I couldn't get a solid setting on the nut and I just rounded the heck out of it. Half a can of WD40 did nothing, I even pre soaked before work to let it sit all day. I've heard afterwards that a torch helps free freezed ones but its too late for me.

I'll be cutting the line, I looked into fabricating my own and honestly it looked miserable and thank goodness I found pre-bent lines, I think specifically for my application. So I plan on cutting out the old line, and putting in these new ones for the rear axle. Local parts stores have the replacement hose, I'm going to hold off on that unless I see evidence of leaking or I can't get air out of the lines even after these new cylinders and lines.

I bought a vacuum brake bleeding system because I like to be self-sufficient. I guess it has other applications as well like testing engine vacuum and I guess somehow for filling in windshield cracks with windshield glue.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Finally "finished" the brake job from hell.

Some bullet points:

The pre-bent brake lines technically bent around the shocks nicely but other than that they didn't really line up at all, I had to straighten them out a lot to be able to meet together at the end of the new rear brake hose. As a result, the brake hose is no longer nicely mounted to the axle with a bolt but instead zip tied. I was able to reuse the other two metal clamps, one that was off of a diff bolt and the other screwed into axle.
The self-bleed kit I bought is a complete piece of crap that both didn't form a good seal on the bleeder screw and when I used my own hose the hand pump failed.
When I got some help from a friend to pump the pedal while I bled the brakes, I got 3 out of 4 to bleed but couldn't get the fourth. I couldn't figure out what was going on until I disconnected the line from it and saw that it did have fluid going to it, then I pressed on the brake myself really hard and heard a noise out the rear passenger drum brake, the wheel cylinder had failed and was leaking bad. One new wheel cylinder (and yet another drum brake reassembly to get to it) and I could finally bleed the whole system.
I think I did the drum shoes replacement job about 3-4 times each by the time I finally got through this job.


And then to top it all off, when I went to test out on the driveway and in the cul de sac, the brakes did feel much better, but I was absolutely squirtin motor oil and the check engine light was on. Determined that the injectors (I call them squirters) were more dripping than squirting, fuel connections looked good, then saw that the pump was leaking on the out end, so probably not enough pressure to drive the squirters. However once I tightened that up and it should have had good pressure, the squirters were still barely keeping the engine alive. The check engine light remained on so I'm assuming it went into the fabled "limp home mode." I was able to get it up the driveway (barely) and I disconnected the battery to reset the ECU overnight. I'll fire it up over my lunch break and see how it goes.
For the oil leak, I have a new valve cover gasket but I'm going to wait to do those until I get my new intake manifold in (this year? who knows).
In the meantime I don't think they have lock washers so I'm going to hit the ol Ace Hardware and get those on there, and torque them to the huge value of 4 ft lbs

[Trevor?]

I've had a similar experience with those little hand vacuum pumps. Maybe someone makes a decent one, but I broke down and bought a Motive Products power bleeder. Makes bleeding and full flushes go much easier.

[speedkills]

Man, what a nightmare those brakes have turned out to be. Hope you get to move onto more rewarding work soon.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Thanks Shane. Like Jim said though, I now have intimate knowledge of what makes the rear and pretty good of what makes the front able to brake and how to service it myself.

It actually was rewarding in the end; when I finally saw fluid coming through the bleeder screws I felt like a pioneer striking oil

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Update on the engine issues I had after the brake job:

I did some Googling and Fun With Multimeters and determined that the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) was defective. Although that is almost exactly what the code was saying, I was very skeptical that it was the pretty much month-old TPS on the new TBI setup and not shoddy wiring or something I did. So I spent a few days diagnosing to be dang sure before sending my findings via email to Howell Engine Products, as this should be covered in their warranty. When they didn't get back to me within 2 days (they still haven't) I just ordered a new one, slapped it on (super easy) and voila, the engine is roaring again!

So now I need to make a phone call and hope they will reimburse me for the TPS. Unfortunately it sounds like the kind of thing that would be smart to keep in an emergency kit, along with a spare fuel pump. They are way overpriced for what seems like a simple potentiometer in my opinion, 60 bucks.

The oil dripping seems to be the valve covers, every time I go and tighten those fasteners up it either completely goes away or is drastically reduced. I have new gaskets and gasket-maker for them but I just can't bring myself to do that job with a potential intake manifold replacement in the near future, so I guess retightening periodically will be my go-to. I will try to get some lock washers, I applied some blue loctite on a few trouble fasteners but I think they get so covered in oil that it will make that useless.

[Jim]

I applied some blue loctite on a few trouble fasteners but I think they get so covered in oil that it will make that useless.

Consider spraying some brake clean (or similar) into the holes for those troublesome fasteners - to clean residual oil out of before using a cleaned bolt with loctite.

Star washer vs. split lock washer - your decision - though either plus loctite a consideration.

If still issues - pull the cover, clean surfaces, and RTV it on (controversial but, imo, a reliable solution)

You're getting there!

[open_circuit]

Consider spraying some brake clean (or similar) into the holes for those troublesome fasteners - to clean residual oil out of before using a cleaned bolt with loctite.

Star washer vs. split lock washer - your decision - though either plus loctite a consideration.

If still issues - pull the cover, clean surfaces, and RTV it on (controversial but, imo, a reliable solution)

You're getting there!

I don't see a huge problem with staking a screw if needed. We used epoxy or RTV to stake screws on hardware we built at my last job. Just a dab on one side of a fastener to the body, and you could remove it later if you needed to. In the meantime, the screw wasn't going anywhere and you would have evidence if a customer decided to try to remove it!

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have seen a lot of people suggest just full application-specific gasket maker for intake manifold ends for the AMC V8, instead of the supplied cork pieces that go on the front and back. So I can definitely see how straight valve-cover approved gasket maker could be applied here. Will try lock nuts first and maybe if my brother is bored enough when he visits this weekend we'll pull them off and do a better job on them.

[FINOCJ]

The oil dripping seems to be the valve covers, every time I go and tighten those fasteners up it either completely goes away or is drastically reduced. I have new gaskets and gasket-maker for them but I just can't bring myself to do that job with a potential intake manifold replacement in the near future, so I guess retightening periodically will be my go-to. I will try to get some lock washers, I applied some blue loctite on a few trouble fasteners but I think they get so covered in oil that it will make that useless.

I am with Jim...I run a tap down all these blind holes with brake cleaner and then blow out with air (cover anything important that might be exposed - like the valve train - and wear safety glasses). This works better when its on the bench rather than in the vehicle, but do what you got to do - holding a rag around the air nozzle and over the hole is how I would do it. Also, be careful not to overtighten the valve covers screws - one you warp the flange, it'll never stop leaking and they are hard to get ever get flat again....its common on an old engine that some previous owner has already dimpled them and thus they are leaking. On old iron blocks, I would strongly suggest use of cork gasket with a bit of gasket dressing or permatex #2....depending on how the heads were cast, some are reasonably flat on top, but old sbc's have a thin rounded top to the head, and a thin flexible cork gasket worked the best from my limited experience. I also like to use an 'extender' or force distributor that goes under the bolt head and on top of the valve cover the distributes the clamping force along a greater length of the cover flange - sort of like a long skinny washer....helps reduce the tendency of dimpling the cover flange right around the hole. I prefer to use use an external star lock washer instead of a split washer - not really sure why - but I think i like that you don't need much torque or compression for them to work, and that helps reduce the chance of over tightening.

oh - and when it finally stops leaking oil, you are probably a few quarts low and need to fill it :lmao:

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I had my brother out for a weekend and took a few days off. We had the goal of taking the Honcho Magnum to a monster truck show, and we technically pulled it off, although it was a pretty stressful experience.

First we got the brake job from hell finally wrapped up, we found that an old trailer brake had a brake line routed right off the master cylinder and into the cab to some lever. I don't need a trailer brake so we disconnected that and got the brakes to firm up a lot better, and it feels great on the road now.

While on our way to the monster truck show, right as I pulled onto I25, the check engine light came on and it wanted to stall at idle and just generally ran crappy, which I guess is the "limp home mode." Well we had pit passes and I wanted driver signatures so we limped to the show! Afterwards we saw that once again the code was 22 for low voltage reported from the TPS (on a brand new TPS). We took a large wire and made dang sure the ECM harness was grounded by taking it from the battery negative terminal to the harness ground.

On the way home the check engine light would be intermittent and when it was off it ran great. I called Howell once they were back in business hours, he wasn't interested in troubleshooting just said screw it we'll send you out another ECM. Took about a week to get here, and it ran great in the garage, and kept running well around the neighborhood. Tonight if I have time I'll take it for a cruise to the home improvement store to pick up some mulch.

I can't talk about a monster truck show without some obligatory photos, maybe it will inspire some of the club's rigs ;)

Video:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EJUCTVbwAyXVXzVS8

Here is a truck installing a new transmission 30 minutes before showtime (he made it for the show, by the way). Also, the transmission used by a few of the trucks present, including this one, is a GM turbo 400, just like in the Honcho Magnum, except probably way upgraded:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ypSAGw5t9dAxVmBJ9

In the photo, you can see a ridiculously trussed custom axle, nitrogen shocks (no coils), some kind of gas progressive bump stops. Its resting on the bumps here, my brother and I assumed he had yet to charge the nitrogen in the shocks to adjust ride height. Just some things to consider for the J10 build one day ;)

[speedkills]

I guess the upshot is at least it runs with a bad ecm enough to get you off of the trail, but still seems like you haven't had a great experience so far with that kit.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Yeah, it looks like they're using old GM ECMs and I guess mine's number was up

[TyTheJeepGuy]

The new ECM appears to be doing well. I drove the truck up to Shane's place in Nederland over the weekend and it performed very well. Special project tonight, its time for the Honcho to grow up

[speedkills]

It was fun to finally see it in person. I think you are going to have fun with that rig for a long time to come.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

The U bolts for the axle-leaf mount were acting as if they were a suspension component on a 44 year old vehicle and fighting me up every thread. With my mom visiting in two days I made the heartbreaking decision to stop before I was too deep into it and had the garage taken up for the entirety of family visiting. I just put the OG shock back in and the tire back on. Nice to be able to fall back to a working vehicle though instead of be stuck with a big brick.I'm installing a 3" lift kit from rough country. Nothing crazy but its a project truck, I think it will do just fine.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Shane brought his German Jeep down the canyon to my place to help me with the lift yesterday. On Saturday I had only gotten a rear shock and leaf out and a new one half in place. Was hoping to replace old hardware but Ace didn't have the same bolts in stock, I did however get new nuts and they went on the old bolts perfectly compared to the old ones fighting me every thread. It was very slow going work, very tuff nuts to get out.

Shortly before Shane arrived I took an angle grinder to the other set of rear u-bolts to avoid another 4 insane nuts to back off. I only got one side cut off, the other side I backed off so I at least reduced the job by 50% with the angle grinder. On the other side I was pretty close to the gas tank so I didn't want to do that. Shane helped me get the final ones off and the leaf out.

Putting in the 52 lb new leafs was a chore, it looks like the axle is maybe an inch or so further back now with the new leafs; we had to disconnect the E-brake to get the axle located on the leafs. Once they were in we had a chore of getting the u-bolts to fit into the top bracket. From the factory they were a bit too wide. Shane and I sat around a while poking around my garage trying to find some way to bend them narrower. Shane had a great idea, we stuck the u-bolts in my Wrangler's front bumper and bent them using that. Then we got the axle bolted up to both leafs. We were exhausted and Shane had put in a really long wrenching day so we called it there, tonight I will be throwing the shocks in and while the rear is up with tires off I'm going to put the gas tank armor back on.

Question for the forum:
We noticed there is one pair of U bolts that are a much different size than the other 3 pairs. I think this was probably a mistake on the part of Rough Country but will call in to confirm. Knowing that it took about 2 days of wrenching and 2 people to get the rear done, I'm concerned about getting the front done by this Saturday morning for the trail cleanup run. So my question is, I know it will look ridiculous but how frowned upon is it to drive and wheel it with the rear lifted 3"?

P.S. I don't have any photos really but I think Shane might. Thanks for the help Shane!

[Jim]

Question for the forum:
We noticed there is one pair of U bolts that are a much different size than the other 3 pairs.

On my jeep, the front axle has two different sizes of U-bolts. IIRC, the inner U-bolts are larger and the outer's are smaller.

I don't know if your vehicle is the same.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Thanks Jim! That's really helpful. I'll get out there and measure once I get off work.

It makes sense if the bolts have to wrap the diff housing like in your photo.

[speedkills]

We didn't have access to a vice and needed to bend these u-bolts, I thought we are about to call it a day since we're stuck so why not take a quick walk around our trucks and see what we would do if we were stuck on the trail and had to bend these. We lucked out, these points on the bumper and a hi-lift handle did the trick.

https://i.imgur.com/20hraS4.jpg

Just needs a shock now.

https://i.imgur.com/UgfhoRP.jpg

[speedkills]

Helping Ty with his leaf springs was my penance for suggesting I could help Jim change his leaf springs with a spring compressor :D

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Well we were pretty exhausted by the time the difference in U bolt size came up, all it would have taken was a quick peek to see why:

[TyTheJeepGuy]

The night before the trail run Trent came over to help me line up my steering wheel is at it was off after the lift. I put in a new steering stabilizer and a new set of spark plugs. Spark plugs are gapped to .045 because the distributor is an HEI, I guess they can handle the bigger gaps because of the higher voltage and it makes for a better burn.

The test drive the night before was enough to convince me to go on the run, unfortunately the service engine light was on for the entire drive to Idaho Springs and the entire trail and rest of the day. I had a blast despite this, this truck is SO fun to wheel. Sure its bouncy and noisy but engaging the low range on it is just instant fun; even with a barely running engine.

I rewarded myself for tidying up the garage tonight by taking it on another test drive, this time with the air cleaner off. I had a theory that the air cleaner being metal it was interfering with the potentiometer that is the Throttle Position Sensor, which is what was throwing the code and putting me into limp mode all day. Sure enough with the cleaner off I had a fun little drive around the neighborhood with no codes being thrown. So now the hunt is on to either shield the TPS or get a different cleaner. I'm currently using an adapter to lift the cleaner up away from the TBI and throttle bracket anyway so it might be time to just find one that fits better.

Here are some awesome photos from the club, and one from tonight to show how close the Jeeps are in height now:

[Jim]

So you think the metal in the air filter assembly is causing issues with the TPS? You're certain there is no physical obstruction at play. If electrical, do you think isolating the metal of the air filter assembly from the throttle body with some electrical tape / duct tape (as a temporary test) might give good results? If fruitful, perhaps find some permanent isolation material (gasket material?).

I believe you commented about photos of the car's odometer moment - here ya go:
www.JimWilliamson.net/automobile/2021-09-12--odometer-moment-honda-333-333-3/ (https://www.jimwilliamson.net/automobile/2021-09-12--odometer-moment-honda-333-333-3/index.html)
.

[FINOCJ]

Would have been more interesting to have an odometer photo on Devils Canyon this weekend...is the YJ running?

[FINOCJ]

and a new set of spark plugs. Spark plugs are gapped to .045 because the distributor is an HEI, I guess they can handle the bigger gaps because of the higher voltage and it makes for a better burn.

yes, open the gap up like you did. OEM set-up probably ran plug gap at .030-.035. Just from my personal experience, be cautious about running too 'modern' or upgraded high mileage plugs such as 'platinum' or 'iridium' etc. Not sure how the TBI system would react, but keeping to basic Delco RS style (or equivalent) plug and just changing them out somewhat frequently seems to work best for me on these older engines. Also, I have found running one heat range higher than OEM also works well here in Colo with all the elevation changes we have to keep things from fouling - although with TBI it might not matter... YMMV...

[Jim]

is the YJ running?

I pulled the fuel pump - suspecting the flexible fuel line had slipped off of the straight metal supply tube - but no. I did have the fuel pump set low and perhaps I set it too low such that the fuel sock/strainer was smashed against the floor of the fuel tank - restricting intake. I have in mind to put the fuel pump into a gas tank to test flow - or I might just stick in the spare pump.

Last night I deviated some time looking at Holly Hydramat fuel pump intake options - keep the pump higher and use the hydramat to make use of the whopping 15 gallons I have.

Perhaps I should just move to the newer 20 gallon with a fuel pump setup designed for fuel injection pumping.

To be continued...

I could see a station wagon photo op on Switzerland - maybe in a line-up of 4x4's

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Maybe your whopping 15 gal will pack a bigger whallup if I told you the big ol J truck Honcho Magnum Ultra is packing a 10 gal

To answer your question, I do not think it is a clearance issue because I can fit a finger under there and move the TPS blade. Not very scientific... I think tomorrow after work I'm going to paint the underside of the air cleaner to ensure that it is not able to affect a potentiometer

[FINOCJ]

keep the pump higher and use the hydramat to make use of the whopping 15 gallons I have.
sorry Ty for stomping on your thread....but Jim, instead of a Holley pump, what about just replacing the tank with a 20 gal aftermarket option?
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-52002633PL-Plastic-Fuel/dp/B009X1UA6G/ref=asc_df_B009X1UA6G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312091590621&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16670032090650786131&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028786&hvtargid=pla-585261206831&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=61856009453&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312091590621&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16670032090650786131&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028786&hvtargid=pla-585261206831

And so we don't leave out Ty...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/371486098733?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=371486098733&targetid=1263094003866&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9028786&poi=&campaignid=13918135803&mkgroupid=125629596220&rlsatarget=pla-1263094003866&abcId=9300613&merchantid=6490184&gclid=Cj0KCQjw18WKBhCUARIsAFiW7Jz_grtJrw2KnH8AJ1MG jh6USi5xDSpvEj0WtTTlQXdGtNT-LuXkV34aAnyUEALw_wcB

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Actually I think its pretty appropriate for this thread since I'm definitely going to be looking at a fuel cell upgrade at least at some point in the J10s future. It might be earlier than later, since I am unsure if the current tank has the kind of connections I need to set up emissions systems

[Jim]

Not looking at a Holly pump - just their hydramat - interesting method to have all available fuel scavenged from low corners to the pump. I thought there was some competition to hydramat but I am not finding it in my bookmarks.

The larger tank, designed for FI pump mounting, is probably where I'll end up / what I should do now and get off of the fence. The only time I needed extra fuel, that I recall in 10 years, was the Maze trip. Sure, extra range on a daily basis would always be used - though not needed. Tank ($240) + Sending unit with pump ($153) + vent valves / hoses (~$70). But yes, in the end I should just do it.

The pump location is centered so it won't match my "cut in the jeep" access panel. I believe my current tank uses one strap over the center - the larger tank uses two straps - outboard. I'll want to check into modifying strap connections at the body (probably a trivial mod). A skid plate to match the larger tank then comes into the picture ($$) as I imagine I'll have ~6" of poly hanging out of the metal skid plate by the leaf springs.

Why is Johnny Cash's "One Piece at a time" coming into my ears... One of these days this 90 will become a 94.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

You guys aren't going to believe this. Once again, not very scientific because I changed two parameters at once, but its easily testable later if someone is really dying to know.

The two changes:
1. Painted the underside of the aluminum air cleaner with the same paint I used on my bumpers, its like a near-bedliner.
2. I found a little extra spacer that came with the air cleaner spacer kit I used to fit the old aftermarket cleaner to the new TBI and clear the throttle body

I took it for a test drive and no service light, and I *may* have roasted those BFGs on Wadsworth. Allegedly.

I am convinced now that the aluminum air cleaner was interfering with the TPS. I don't believe physically, but electronically by messing with the resistance measurement somehow. There is a flat area of the TBI itself that hangs out by the TPS, and the spacers and air cleaner go on that. The TPS is just barely shorter than that, so I don't think physical clearance could have possibly been an issue because I can't see how the air cleaner would reach down in there, and I was able to physically move it with my fingers.

Maybe I should post this on one of the insane amount of unanswered "GM Code 21 and 22" threads.

[Trevor?]

This sounds a lot like EMI. Maybe the throttle body assembly and air-cleaner formed a resonant circuit excited by RF from the ignition system. Injectors can be pretty noisy too. I kinda wonder if the issue would also have gone away if you had a larger or smaller air cleaner or if you clipped a couple of ferrite chokes around the TPS leads or added a coupling capacitor in parallel with the TPS.... or changed the length of the wiring between the TPS and the ECM. It's probably not the best use of time to play around with it anymore if your solution is working.

Nice catch.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I think like you said with the injectors, the throttle body, plastic spacer and aluminum air cleaner I somehow created the perfect storm for throwing off the TPS. Luckily it has driven enough times with no hint of an issue since this change that I think its good, otherwise I would move on to more shielding / isolating options.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Was able to take the rig out wheelin yesterday with no issues, engine felt great even at elevation and the 4x4 worked really well. Icing on the cake was no leaf springs fell off either!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MXhpNPBGGbq6GzGy8

[TyTheJeepGuy]

The exhaust leak was bothering me. Not messing w/ 44 year old exhaust replacement sounded nice to me, so I eventually found a shop that would put in two pipes with no converters (confirmed with emissions tech I didn't need them because it never had one) and flowmaster mufflers. I love the result! Its weird hearing engine sounds behind me now instead of all around me.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CmUhcJu2JmS5Q6xx5

[Jim]

More steps checked off - getting closer!

[FINOCJ]

Nice...keep working it a bit at a time

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Great news! I am only one step away from passing emissions. I think. The 1977 service manual states that non-California trucks like mine did not use the closed fuel tank vent system so I don't need a charcoal canister (though I already bought and "installed" one thinking I did) and that is a big relief because my tank didn't seem to have any vent lines for making it work. So I hooked up the PCV system (positive crankcase ventilation) which turned out to be as simple as taking leftover 3/8" fuel hose I had from the EFI conversion and taking it from the correct port on the TBI to a new valve pushed into the grommet on the manifold.

Despite that being super easy, I made it difficult at first by misidentifying the correct port on the TBI, and scratching my head and tearing through the garage to be able to find a converter for 1/4" hose to 3/8" from the PCV valve that still had a short length of 3/8" hose on it plugged up with a bolt from when the engine went in to be rebuilt. There might not have been anything wrong with the old valve but new ones are cheap and the service manual recommends changing them often so I put in a new one and trimmed up the 3/8" to the correct port and I think its probably the cleanest system in the engine bay right now. I had the other end of the PCV hooked up as the first thing I did on this emissions journey, its some loosely fitting hose around a fitting that I found for the aftermarket air cleaner that hooks up the oil filler cap vent to the air cleaner.

I am very happy to have the PCV system hooked up now because not only does the truck run cleaner but as I understand it there is less pressure in the crankcase now, and so maybe some of my oil leaking issues should end. The oil filler cap was previously pumping a good amount of dirty crankcase vapors into the engine bay and probably dirtying it up in addition to the eventual destination of the atmosphere. Now those crankcase vapors get sucked out of the intake manifold at idle, and with drop in vacuum pressure I think that the flow actually reverses. The crankcase vapors that get sucked into the TBI get re-exploded so I suppose its almost like the EGR system that I have yet to hook up.

[FINOCJ]

as I understand it there is less pressure in the crankcase now, and so maybe some of my oil leaking issues should end.

yes - very true....if you had abnormally high crankcase pressure (often a symptom of ring blowby) then oil will get pushed out anywhere it can squeeze past a seal or gasket (see the sbc283 I fought for a year in the wagon). The old 283 didn't have a pcv system - it used an early crankcase pressure venting system known as a draft tube. In my case it was more of an oil dump tube. Anyway...just keep an eye on how much oil may be going through the pcv hose from the valve cover and into the air filter intake/carb/tbi/throat. If its a lot, it can cause some extra oil and carbon build-up (more of an issue for a carb I would guess) and it will also foul plugs and you might notice a bit more blue/black smoke out the tailpipe (might trigger an engine code depending on sensors). Early systems feed the hose below the throttle body, which I like as the oil doesn't gum up carbs and air filters (but it does go into the combustion chamber which has long term concerns), but later units (like on my 84 cj7 258), the feedback tube enters before the air filter and thus the oil ends up saturating the paper element filter, eventually rendering it useless. But it takes a lot of oil consumption to be a problem through the pcv - and only a little to make a huge leaky mess....guessing its going to be a nice small improvement, and even more awesome if it gets you through emissions. Equally important is a breather system to get fresh filtered air directly into the crankcase when needed - sort of the opposite of the pcv valve which allows air out, but not in. Sometimes, the crankcase goes into vacuum and needs additional air, so there should be a breather cap or breather hose into one of the valve covers. It theory, it doesn't matter which valve cover port is used for pcv valve outflow, and which is used for breather in-flow...just make sure they are connected to proper place on the throttle body and/or air intake (simple breather caps won't have any hose or connection).

The cj line started running charcoal evaporative systems in the early 70s about when AMC took over - both on the I6 and v8s I believe - surprised it was not standard on the j-trucks. If somehow you have to deal with that - let me know, I might be able to help a bit as I have some familiarity with the cj charcoal systems (had one on my cj7) and I had to plug off all the tank vents on a 70s cj fuel tank that I swapped into my cj5 for my spare fuel tank. Its a pretty simple system - hard part is usually accessing the tank vents and sending units on the top of the tank (usually requires dropping the tank).

I've been checking out j-trucks again on the for sale adds....nice one up in Estes Park, but only a straight six 258 and late 70s so emissions required. There is an earlier J20 up in wyoming that is cheaper, a bit rougher, 360 v8, and I think early 70's enough to avoid emissions.....damn cool trucks!

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Thanks James. In the AMC V8 case its just the PCV grommet on the intake manifold with the valve in it, then hose to a port on the TBI. The port on the TBI is dedicated to PCV system according to the Howell instructions, it looks to me like it sits below the butterfly valves so I think the TBI getting gummed up by it should be minimized. I'll take your advice and try to inspect it after some use and see if anything looks excessive. The oil filler cap to air cleaner is what I think brings the fresh air into the system. On the stock cleaner this had a little sponge filter but that isn't on my adapter thing on the Edelbrock cleaner. It is inside the cleaner housing so it gets filtered air without fouling up the paper filter. I'm now running a K&N filter anyway so maybe that will just keep it oiled :)

In the service manual and the Howell EFI instruction vac diagram I don't see any valve cover vents, so I guess the port on manifold and TBI are all it has and somehow also vent the area under the valve covers, if that's even possible.

[FINOCJ]

The port on the TBI is dedicated to PCV system according to the Howell instructions, it looks to me like it sits below the butterfly valves so I think the TBI getting gummed up by it should be minimized.
that sounds good to me...any excess oil flowing through the pcv will got directly into the intake manifold and burn off in the combustion chamber. If you think you are getting a lot of oil flowing through the system, check the spark plugs.


The oil filler cap to air cleaner is what I think brings the fresh air into the system. On the stock cleaner this had a little sponge filter but that isn't on my adapter thing on the Edelbrock cleaner. It is inside the cleaner housing so it gets filtered air without fouling up the paper filter.
As long as the connection is 'inside' the air filter, then the air flow from the air intake directly into the valve cover/crankcase will be filtered air which is good. This is how mine (and many) were set-up, but many people remove the hose and just use a breather cap that has the filter built into it. As that is the bypass/breather inflow, there shouldn't be any issue with oil reverse flowing into the air filter housing. So sounds good there as well...


I guess the port on manifold and TBI are all it has and somehow also vent the area under the valve covers, if that's even possible.
The port on the manifold may go all the way through to the pushrod 'valley' which is connected to the crankcase/valvecover pressure or air circulation. Sound likes its all good to go. Hopefully you are not getting too much oil blowby and trigger an emissions issue....the TBI/O2 sensor should really help keep the air/fuel mixture right which will help minimize too rich of a fuel mixture thus minimizing unburnt fuel hydrocarbons. It should run cleaner than it ever did on a carb - especially at idle. Make sure the engine is nicely warmed up before emissions test, especially if you have some leaky piston rings and valve seals....the heat will help tighten things up a bit, and some run time will burn off any excess oil that might have seeped through the valve seals.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Ok I'm stuck, and have done a bit of internet research but I'm coming up short. Kinda rough when you have a somewhat unique vehicle to get vehicle specific modification help. I'm going to give some context here so if you want the TL;DR that's at the end.

So I am not sure if I mentioned it already in this build thread, but after installing the 3" rough country lift kit I had some vibration between 25 and 35 ish mph. I ignored it for the sake of being able to make it out for a few trail runs before end of season and because it was pretty minimal. Its small enough that I could live with it, especially since its a project vehicle, but its been bothering me because when I was doing research for the 3" kit I saw a lot of FSJ owners saying there was no reason to have to modify anything but leafs and shocks until you start getting past a 4" kit (except maybe a steering stabilizer which I got anyway). The only thing I can think of is that while the FSJs are nearly all the same there are some slight differences, especially in terms of length and maybe axle width, between say a Grand Wagoneer and a J truck. The kit I got however specifically said that it fits a 1977 J10 and I shouldn't need anything else to get it done.

I noticed when Shane helped me put it on that A: we had to extend the drive shaft slightly to be able to locate the axle on the springs and B: the shims on the leafs seemed to be backwards, but the shackles only fit on one end so I was pretty confident I got the orientation right. Well after having to bend and beat the crap out of the shackles to fit the front leafs that I did later I realized that it isn't so far fetched I might have to do the same for the back, and a check of Rough Country's FAQ section and a phone call to their support confirmed that the thick end of the shim should face the rear bumper. The final nail in the coffin was that the support tech informed me that straight-line length from center locating pin to forward bushing should be 31.5" and that confirmed that they were originally in the wrong way, as well as when I got under there last night and switched one 75lb leaf around the driveshaft angle looked like it would be much better, but waaaaaay further back. Considering the other end measurement (center pin to other bushing) was 26.5", and that I already had to push the drive shaft out a bit, we're talking about a 5" wheelbase extension with only one axle moving!

I confirmed with the guy on the phone this afternoon before I got started on the other leaf before I wasted my time. I told him I thought it was pretty crazy to expect the original driveshaft to be able to extend that much and he seemed to think there wasn't even room for concern. Well I went out and gave it a shot and there isn't a damn thing holding that axle back besides the driveshaft. I made sure the driveshaft was greased and started wailing on it and eventually got I think a 1/4" more out of it, but it started showing these blue marks that looked like they would help someone orient it for insertion which made me nervous I really was at the end. I'll attach a picture of that. Anyone else had a similar experience?

TL;DR : Had leafs backwards, this was confirmed by Rough Country, I was assured that the OEM driveshaft could extend enough to locate axle correctly on correct spring install, but that aint happening.

I realize you guys aren't Rough Country reps but if you have some advice and/or experienced a similar situation I'd appreciate the input. Thanks!

Edit: here's the webpage for the kit. It even had reviews of happy customers and no one asking "hey why do I have to jump through hoops backwards on fire to get this baby together" so makes me feel dumb: 3 Inch Lift Kit | Rear Springs | Jeep Grand Wagoneer (84-90)/J10 Truck (76-88) | Rough Country (https://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-645-20.html?find=1977-jeep-j10-pickup-4wd-740857#overview)

[FINOCJ]

I read through the details once...and I will do so again as I am sure I didn't pick up on everything. As one who has worked with a number of leaf spring lifts on a few different vehicles, it would be unusual for a 2-3 lift to cause issues with too short of a driveshaft - and that is even more so with a long wheelbase/long driveshaft vehicle like the J-truck. Obviously, individual shipments and orders can get screwed up, wrong parts sent etc, but I am guessing its not typical nor expected to have to deal with driveshaft issues. So, basically, that means the manufacturer either sent you something wrong, or something with the install is not quite right....ALso, once you start dealing with 40-50 years old vehicles, stuff gets changed by the previous owner, and all of a sudden, something that should bolt right on, or be a straight easy replacement becomes a chore with lots of 'why the eff did the previous owner do this?' I need to go back and read about your drive shaft shims and shackles a bit more, but something seemed 'off' there. But its also really hard to troubleshoot via the forum...I'll be up north wheeling tomorrow - don't know about what time we'll be done, but I'd be cruising through on my south if you want someone else to just take a look at with no guarantee that I will spot anything or be helpful - just let me know.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Thanks James, I just now saw this message. I'd appreciate the second glance. You summed up my exact feelings on this: all of my research before buying the kit was that I should have no problems bolting in this 3" lift while some people are doing more like a 4 or 5". I will PM you with my address in case you can swing by.

I called again today, confirmed part numbers. It says "Jeep 76-90" right there on the leaf spring and I triple checked part number, and the nail in the coffin is the measurement from center locating pin to forward facing bushing being exactly what they said it should be over the phone. Got a different tech today, he says he sells a lot of these kits and hasn't had any problems reported. When I said maybe its something specific with the J truck vs a Grand Wagoneer he said he just talked to someone who put it in a J10.

He said what they do is in the shop they will have the truck on a lift, the axle on a tranny jack, and then they would compress the leafs up and this would move the center pin closer to transfer case so less to travel for the drive shaft. Sounds to me like a lot of unnecessary effort for a 3" lift... but anyway I don't have that many jacks. I think I'm going to disconnect the driveshaft, get the axle onto the leafs, then I can compress that whole assembly up and try to extend the shaft enough to reattach to axle. Never disconnected a driveshaft before so I'll have to look into that before trying.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Ok so James came over and brainstormed with me and brought much more experience with leaf springs with him to help me make a decision. Long story short, we agree that I probably had the leafs in the right direction the first way, and we just can't see how they should be the other way. The main question is why the shims appear to be the wrong direction. Long story long, read on, but you're pretty much caught up at this point.

Here's a detail of our decision making process:
Factual givens:
- the leafs I pulled off had about 31.5" center pin to REAR bushing (nearest to rear bumper) and 26.75 from center to front
- The axle was pretty nicely centered with the new leafs in the way I originally put them in

Circumstantial givens:
- rough country says that the thick end of the shim needs to face towards the rear bumper
- with the way the shims were oriented delivered to me, this meant that the 31.5 sized end of the leafs would face towards the FRONT of the vehicle
- putting the (75 freaking pound) leafs in with the 31.5 long end towards the front of the vehicle places the rear axle quite far back, enough to give me concerns about clearing with tires on
- Two calls to Rough Country themselves assured me both times that the 31.5" end should face the FRONT of the vehicle
- the original leafs I pulled out may not be OEM or installed same direction as OEM, but this would be assuming that the wheelbase was shortened and axle not lined up with center of wheel well, and also that someone flipped around the leaf, and there is no indication that the leafs are not original. So I find the scenario they were flipped very unlikely

The red flags that kept me from wanting to continue on with the RC suggestions (but I did anyway because I had two Rough Country techs assuring me that it was the correct approach):
- The axle not being centered with the wheel well
- The driveshaft nearly coming apart and I'm still several inches away from being able to mount the axle
- Having to disconnect the breather tube to reach
- Having to fully pull out the parking brake lines to be able to reach
- Having to have the brake line (that the RC and other websites assure me should need no modification) pulled up away from the axle to be able to reach

So really, the only things that seemed to indicate that I should rotate the leafs from how I had them was the orientation of the shims and the assurance of Rough Country techs/representatives/support guys. These seem like very minor reasons compared to the very concerning compromises that it would take to carry it out. James concluded that we'll need some more info before we can be sure of a decision, but he would lean towards ignoring the support suggestions and keeping the leafs oriented how I had them originally and maybe look into rotating the shims for a better pinion angle. He has some connections with J trucks (sounds like some rad people if you ask me) and he's going to see what they have to say about their pinion angles and maybe whether they are using shims for lifts.

I was able to get the leafs back in the same way I had them originally, and was for once pleasantly surprised by how easy it is to rotate those shims. I interpret this as further circumstantial evidence that maybe Rough Country had it wrong, if its that easy to just slap them on and rotate them. I could have been convinced those were welded on and there was no hope for removing or rotating them so I'm appreciative for James' insight on that.

The clips around the edges of the leafs (James explained that their purpose to to keep the individual metal components from rotating/fanning out) rub the outer edge of the truck's frame so I will be grinding off one edge of one on each side to prevent this. There are multiple clips and if for some reason those fail the frame itself should prevent them from rotating at least one direction.

Thanks to James for all of the help. I am in my last days of being 25 and I don't think I would have the energy to crawl around under a truck after a trail run.

Considering the

[FINOCJ]

edit - I see I tarry'd too long writing this while eating dinner and so forth - Ty has already said it all....

I stopped by Ty's today to see some of the issues he is dealing with....And I am essentially in agreement with him that the spring manufacturer is giving him wrong info or directions. Basically, there are two issues:
1) the rear leaf springs are not symmetrical around the axle mounting center pin - basically, one end of the spring is 5 inches longer than the other. The longer end is the 31.5" that the manufacturer says should go towards the front. In addition to all the difficulty with getting the driveshaft to extend to fit etc, you can pretty much eyeball that when the axle is mounted to the leaf spring in this arrangement, the axle is pushed so far back, that it may not even fit in the wheel wheel, and certainly the tire isn't going to sit anywhere near the center of wheel well. We essentially confirmed our suspicions when we went and measured the old take-off leaf springs - obviously they are a couple inches shorter overall as they don't have as much arch and lift - but they still have the 5 inches of difference from one end to the other, and the long end had a little 'helper' spring add on. Looking at some old photos Ty took (its always good to get documentation of stuff before you tear it apart), the long end with the helper spring was definitely in the rear....Now we don't know if the old springs are OEM or replacement or what not, but no matter what they were, they fit and its highly unlikely they were installed backwards. Given how impossible it is to install the new springs with the long end forward, I am 99.999% sure the directions from the manufacturer are backwards with regard to the spring direction.

2) The 2nd issue, and the one that is a bit more complicated, is the axle shims. The shims actually cam pre-installed in the leaf pack and its all held together with the center pin. The lift kit includes shims to help keep the pinon angle correct when the lift is installed...And it appears from our perspective, that when the leaf springs are installed in the orientation that we think they should go (short end forward), the shims are backwards.

I think its a bit of a misconception that the pinon has to be rotated up to match the driveshaft angle, as what is really needed is 'parallel but offset' between the transmission/TC output and the pinon. Basically, the pinon angle needs to match the transmission output angle (not the driveshaft). When you 'lift' the vehicle, or you can think of it as dropping the axle, you increase the offset between the trans output and the pinon, but unless the axle rotates, the parallel relationship should remain. In the case of the J10, the axle does rotate some because the geometry of the asymmetrical leaf springs and how they are mounted to the frame (rear mount is much higher than front mount) is a bit more complex. Just measuring the axle, we found about a 7 degree difference between the spring pad surface and the pinon - in other words, if the spring pads were flat and horizontal, the pinon would be angle 7 degrees up. This OEM configuration is quite purposeful I think, as the when the leaf springs are mounted high in the rear on the frame, the spring pads are pointed down to the front by a few degrees, but the pinon is horizontal to slightly up. I would guess the OEM springs would have been around a 4-5 degree down to the front orientation, and with the pinon 7 degrees higher, it would sit about 2-3" up. I think for many years, many manufacturers use a 2-3 engine inclination to the rear that then sets the trans output and the pinon angle at the same.

Now, with the slightly longer, more highly arched lift springs, the orientation of the spring pads changes, and as best as we could tell, it rotates the spring pad down to the front a bit more - although not a lot. We roughly measured maybe 7-8 degrees total. If the springs were mounted without a shim, the pinon would basically sit flat. The shims installed on the springs will cause things to rotate down in the front by another 7 degrees or so (fat end forward on a SOA set-up)....I just cannot imagine any scenario where the pinon should ever be downward. So, that means if we are correct in which direction the springs install (long end to the rear), then the shims are installed wrong. For the shims to work right, they need to be installed fat end to the rear so they rotate the pinon up (and the instructions are clear on this - the fat end goes rearward). So I think Ty is going to need to loosen the center pin and either spin the shims 180 degrees, or really, I think given the built in 7 degrees of wedge in the axle, that he might be best off to just skip the shims - I just don't see anyway the new springs are going to cause 7 more degrees of downward rotation, and using the wedges to increase the pinon angle will probably yield way to high of a pinon angle - probably around 7 degrees or so. The only way to find out I think, will be to put stuff together with the rotated shims and with no shims, and measure the pinon angle and compare to the trans output.

[FINOCJ]

Kind of cluttering up Ty's thread here....but if you've come this far, Zihuatanejo isn't much farther... some 'light' reading on drivetrain and setting up driveshaft angles with pinon and transmission output
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UZ8ImxkY8KeQGwwty0hl4s8RJ55J-vk6/view?usp=sharing

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Thanks James! By the way, rotating the shims was by far the easiest part of this lift. Small impact driver on the center nut was all it took to loosen (I used clamps on either side as you suggested) and then I could swing them around very easily and retighten. I can use some help getting the axle up into place but once I use a jack to pin it against the mounting points I can measure the angles before u-bolting and decide if I should delete the shims. Based on what I'm seeing I think the shims will be necessary.

[FINOCJ]

I sent out some requests to see if anyone can get some pics or measurements of their J-truck set-ups....hopefully hear back tomorrow to confirm we are doing it right. Glad the shim rotation went easy. Start there, and get the axle in place, and then measure the pinon angle and see where it is. My eyeball was kind of guessing you wouldn't need them, but 7 degree isn't a lot to see, and given we didn't have the one side spring really in place, nor did we jack the axle up in there, its quite possible its going to work well with the shims spun around. I can guarantee that the shims in this new arrangement will me WAY better than previous when they were rotating the pinon down. Let me see where things stand for tomorrow - I have been assigned some winterization duties for the house, irrigation and swamp cooler etc and I have some parts for the 58 to chase...once all that starts to work itself out, I should be able to find some time....

[TyTheJeepGuy]

This afternoon I spent about 4 hours in the garage trying out the new shim orientation and getting ahead of myself. I bolted the axle back up because I thought it looked good, but now the pinion angle was so positive that the shocks couldn't reach their brackets. As it would turn out they were actually too rotated up at this point anyway. I took the shims off and rebolted by balancing the axle on the jack and locating one side at a time.

I was very pleased with the test drive. Also while I had the truck jacked and tires off I retorqued the front suspension components and trimmed the excess of the U bolts with the angle grinder. The parking brake lines are semi hooked back up, I might just need to set up some new mount points since they no longer reach the old ones along the frame.

[FINOCJ]

Nice...I think no shims is the way to go....

[FINOCJ]

If you get a chance...post a picture of looking along the axle tube so we can see the pinon angle and driveshaft..You sent one to my phone earlier today, but that was with the shims still, and the pinon did look way too high. And the final thought - I am still wondering if those shims would have been more useful on the front springs to manage caster angle....otherwise enjoy driving it.

[Jim]

If you get a nice side shot (showing the full driveline) - I can open the image in a photo editor to measure the angles at each end of the DS

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Sorry I missed these posts. Attached is a photo as level as I could get it and as straight on. Kind of hard to get the right framing.

I have been driving the truck since the "lift fix" and its doing great. Today I had the pipe that was welded direct to messed up passenger manifold fixed w/ new manifold installed, this time pipe is bolted to it correctly. The manifold gaskets I bought were apparently folded in half at some point in their shipping and handling and the shop said they were worthless, so right now I'm without a gasket on passenger side. Will wait til there is a leak to add one.

The truck is not holding its weight in these photos so I expect the angle to change slightly. I'll go out tomorrow and try to get photos with truck holding itself up.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I visited family over the weekend for my uncle's funeral but there were some fun times in between; one of which was getting to check out my step-dad's CJ5 (1977) that I have seen and heard legends of but never gotten to do much more than see under a cover.

I had only heard from my step brother that he had swapped in a V8 but I just assumed it was the standard V8 or maybe a 360. Turns out he too has an AMC 401 and GM Turbo 400 transmission, and they are both I'd say medium to heavy modified. Modification mentioned included aggressive cam, clutch packs for transmission, and not really a mod but he runs it on 110 octane fuel. "It wants to vapor lock" uh yeah I wonder why :)

Here are some photos and a link to a video of it burning all 4 35" tires in low range. The video is NSFW both because of Jeep action too hot and I say "holy sh*t":
https://photos.app.goo.gl/U7zesZ38Ux3zohpa8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XjXEVwfmdBLvUCPVA

I know, I know. His engine bay is much cleaner.

[Jim]

Speedo got to 30 before the body caught up :thumb:

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I asked for a tachometer for Christmas and got one. The way I mounted it may be horrific, potentially sacrilegious to some, so viewer be warned:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/h25hZpqB9wfCZeMe9

[TyTheJeepGuy]

My main focus for this build has changed given I'm using it as my sled hauler this winter. Fixing up the fuel system and the recreating the windshield washer system has replaced body work and cleaning up the engine bay and electrical wiring in the cab in priority.

Amazon's algorithms showed their prowess and suggested a Permatex Reservoir Patch Kit that worked great. It was pretty much just some fiberglass "cloth" and a strong epoxy. I got lucky and the 45 year old reservoir motor, wiring, and switch from the cab all worked. I bought a cheap universal nozzle kit too and I'll use the hosing but I couldn't find a place I liked for the nozzles. I found that late 60s Camaro washer nozzles looked very similar to ones I saw for FSJ and were listed as less expensive than I could find. They came in but I have yet to install them. It looks like the little metal flags that are used to secure them in position are oriented opposite of the FSJ ones so there might be some challenge there. I'm waiting until I can get some help from a friend because it looks like it will be easiest to install with the hood removed.

As for the fuel system, I incorrectly reported here that I had a 10 gallon tank. I now cannot find where I got that information from, I could have sworn I saw someone online saying they had one in a J10. Anyway, not only did I have the stock 18 gallon tank, but there appears to be nothing wrong with it. I think I just put too much faith in that damn shop that I trusted with the truck after pulling it out of my dads place. They told me they hooked up the sending unit when I had them reset up that tank as the main tank. There were rotten hoses so I had also bought and delivered them a new filler hose. Pretty much every other hose connection (overflow, send and receive soft lines) were prone to leaking especially after I added more (albeit relatively low) pressure to the system when I added EFI. Also, when I'd go to the pump, I could only ever get 8 or 9 gallons in from near empty if I was lucky, before it was clearly coming up the filler hose. The shop told me that when the fuel gauge ran empty, it was definitely empty, and that the owner had taken it for a test drive and when it went empty he had to refill before continuing back to the shop. So I stupidly trusted them again and found out they were completely wrong. My gauge was reading near empty and I dropped the tank, there were gallons and gallons of fuel in there, and now on my garage floor.

After letting the garage vent out a bit my friend showed up to help get the new 18gal polyethylene tank in. I ordered it before I realized I really did have an 18 gallon already... anyway it was an opportunity to get a new sending unit in and make sure I could fix up the lines to it. Putting the new tank in was easier than taking the apparently quite full one out but unfortunately in an attempt to match the orientation of the sending unit's connections (towards driver side of the vehicle where the hard lines come up for the connection) I think I pointed the float barrel towards the nearest side of the tank. So when it fills up, I think the float barrel gets pinned against the tank wall and now it reads very low when I hand pumped in about 15 gallons. I'm going to wait on dropping the tank again to fix this but despite the sunk cost fallacy most of this adventure was to get a nice reliable and informative fuel system on the truck so it isn't something I need to worry about when going to do fun stuff.

When I started the truck up later that night it was sending a lot of gas out the send and return line connections to the sending unit. Luckily I can get to these from the rear wheel well without even removing the tire and its a tight fit but I got the clamps repositioned and snugged up, no new leaks. So I really didn't accomplish much except now I have a lighter tank with a true vent nozzle where the last tank I think vented through the filler hose. This will let me gasket up the filler cap so I don't see/smell fuel dumping out the side when I go offroading again. I guess I also accomplished some peace of mind knowing I really do have 18 gallons to work with and since I was doing ok with 8-9 that means I've doubled my range. Poly tank will be a lot easier to drop anyway so redoing the sending unit won't be TOO bad. I bought extra 3/4" line and cut off what I think was the rotten section of the overflow line so hopefully I won't be dripping gas every time I fill up now.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

I don't really have any photos of the new tank but here's video evidence that I fixed the return line link:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CnKmCJUHuDmfN6VS7

[Jim]

1) Tach placement - you just went drag race style

2) I'm to assume you WON'T be visiting THAT SHOP ever again?

[TyTheJeepGuy]

For 1, heck yeah! :)

For 2, unfortunately since coming to Colorado I've had nothing but bad and sometimes downright malicious/fraudulent experiences with shops. I think the one exception has been the place that did the custom exhaust for me. So if I can help it I won't be going to anything except specialty shops.